1. travel
2. tourist destinations
3. france

How
on
to
Visit
Next
With
Europe
Nothing
to
of Actual
Memoranda
Expenses,Coinage Tables,etc.
BY
E.
P.
NEW
DODD,
PRENTYS
YORK
"
MEAD
1912
COMPANY
COPYRIGHT,
THE
1908,
VOGUE
COMPANY
COPYRIGHT,
E.
Published,
BY
1912,
P.
BY
PRENTYS
May,
1912
PREFACE
Most
people
the
amongst
that
Of
expensive.
but
I
dollars,
length,
other
I
or
side
am
hundred
I
Comrade,
or
accompany
in
a
way,
we
set
this
exceed
my
dazzled
This
247364
indeed.
ing
unbeliev-
with
out
and
three
my
has
will
lessen
rooms,
stern
a
by
amount
places
shall share
the
upon
one
with
over
of
mention
and
London
Paris,
weeks
eight
scheme
by
of
supply
this to
pocket
other
me.
as
to
my
resorts,
more
cost
prove
talked
who,
continental
in
to
have
to
intend
and
not
small
very
dollars
resolution
score
a
so;
sense,
enjoyed
be
may
going
now
friends
cent.
more,
at
of
vacation
splendid
a
common
minimum
a
sarily
neces-
be
it may
with
and
is
tour
course
that
knowledge,
some
in
faith
have
everybody
almost
European
a
I
Europe,
to
go
But
number.
think
to
seems
to
want
agreed
the
a
to
cost,
carriages,
PREFACE
vi
for
etc., but
the
sake
of
assuredlyfollow where
the expenses
down
In order
I
as
to
find them.
will enable
intentions
other
to
are
cannot
compete
shower
left for
instead
my
(if
own
with
I
it is with
in
have
and
the
tips
money
so
see
the real life of
true
interest in
I visit.
of the sketches in this
appeared seriallyin Vogue, and
ing
of the Vogue Publishthe consent
Company,
in book
hostelries
millionaires.
enjoyment)
greater number
little book
the
would
people and everythingof
The
comfortably,
them
of liveried servants,
the countries
adventurous
travel
avoid
to
luxuriously,
vehicles
patronised by
they
ing
enter-
footsteps.
not
and
doing the
person,
strict accounts,
keep
follow in my
to
My
but
put
diary,every dollar I spend,
all my joys,togetherwith such informat
as
souls
lead, I shall
this,my
well
as
will
refute the insinuations of scoffers
to
going
am
in
the
one
thingsalone, would
same
I
as
I
others, who
form.
that
these
are
now
reissued
COINAGE
TABLES
American
English
i
i
(or
halfpenny
farthings)
2
(or
shilling
I
cents.
2
penny
pence)
12
is
i
florin
Half
i
=
5.0
60
crown
a
(or sovereign)
pound
SCALE
English:
4
"
farthings=i
American:
"
(and
French
farthings)
penny
=10
i
shilling
=i
franc
=2
francs
=3
francs.
I
2
florin
crown
pound
(or
English:
"
4
20
=i
:
"
100
=i
=25
SCALE
:
farthings=i
centimes
(or
20
louis.
vii
5
centimes),
centimes,
(or
20
40
120
times).
cen-
centimes.
francs.
12
penny.
shillings=i
(or
sou
shillings)
20
French
shilling.
dollar.
i
a
cents.)
20
pence=i
halfpenny
Half
cents,
(less
i
I
2)
pound.
English
(or
cents.)
cents.
12
penny.
cents=i
100
24
:
shillings=i
20
worth
dollars
5
ing
shill-
(lit. the
quarter
I
=
"penny.")
(or
cent
=i
shilling.
pence=i
pound.
sous=i
franc.
100
francs
viii
TABLES
COINAGE
English
i
Norwegian
halfpenny (or 2 farthings) =324
=?y2
I
penny
1
shilling (or
2
shillings(i florin)
Half
i
20
a
0re.
pence)
12
0re.
=90
crown
pound
tfre.
=i
Krone
80
=2
Krone
25 0re.
Krone.
=18
(20 shillings)
Krone.
=360
pounds
SCALE
English:"
farthings=i
4
20
Norwegian:
"
:
12
penny.
Krone.
English.
American.
I
25
cent
cents
(or
i
halfpenny
i
shilling(and
florin (and
{A
2
shillings(and
dollar
4
shillings (and
5
dollars
I
pound
dollars
500 dollars
hundred
i
SCALE
American:
"
English:"
4
100
cent
pence)
.
16/8).
pounds
(and "34)
.
:
farthings=i
12
penny.
shilling.
pence=i
shilling=i pound.
French
American.
i
pence).
2
dollar.
cents=i
20
.
penny).
a
10
(and
pounds
20
Y* penny)
penny)
a
(and
farthings).
2
a
I
100
shilling.
pence=i
shilling=i pound.
0re=i
100
0re.
i
sou
(or 5 centimes)
25
cents
I
franc
50
cents
2
francs
I
dollar
5
francs.
5
dollars
25
francs
centimes.
25
francs)
.
50
centimes.
(or
i
louis
and
5
TABLES
COINAGE
ioo
500
dollars
500
dollars
2500
(and
(and
SCALE
French:
20
francs)
:
20
louis.
francs=i
Norwegian
American
i
or
i) louis.
franc
centimes=i
ioo
"
francs.
dollar.
cents=i
ioo
"
4)
(and
500
American:
ix
$y*
cent
tfre
0re
25
cents
90
50
cents
i
krone
80
0res
I
dollar
3
krone
60
0re
5
dollars
18
krone
360
ioo
dollars
500
dollars
krone.
krone.
1800
SCALE
American:
Norwegian
cents
ioo
"
:
"
ioo
0re
to
to
the
the
:
dollar.
krone.
ERRATA
p.
p.
vii.
viii.
These
decimals,
(or
pound
i
20
dollars
500
coinage
but
give
francs.
shillings)=24
104
tables
are
approximate
not
worked
values.
pounds
out
33.
to
4d.
exact
CONTENTS
CHAPTER
PAGE
I. INTENTIONS
AS
PERSONAL
FOR
LING,
TRAVEL-
OF
BAGGAGE,
INSURANCE,
WHICH
TIPS, DETAILS
RIGHT
COMFORT
DAY
ON
OF
HOTELS
LONDON,
LANDING
i
ARRIVAL
IN
RANGEMENTS
AR-
NECESSARY
MAKE
REGARD
IN
MEMORANDUM
"
WAY,
THE
.
AND
TO
MAKE
EXPENSES
CONTINENT,
THE
ROUTE,
ON
MEMORANDUM
ETC.
II. FIRST
COST, MODE
TO
TO
PENSES
EX-
OF
ii
III.
SECURING
OF
LONDON
CERTAIN
OF
THE
DISTRICTS,
ClTY, WITH
ROMANCE
IT
OF
ENGLISH
TEMPORARY
ABODE
24
RIVER,
TURE
PIC-
ALLY
GENER-
NOT
ALSO
A
BRIEF
THAT
PLACES
HISTORIC
OMITTED
BE
ARRANGEMENTS
"
.
ING
OBTAIN-
OF
THOSE
MUSEUMS
OF
THE
"
METHOD
TO
OPEN,
V.
LONGINGS
BE-
ALL
ACADEMY,
"
ADMISSION
NOT
GAGE,
BAG-
.
GALLERIES
MUST
DINE,
TO
OF
MONUMENT,
MENTION
THE
OF
COLLECTING
SIGHTSEEING
OF
TOWER,
OF
VIEW
HlNT
A
TRANSFERENCE
TO
BEGINNING
GENERAL
WHERE
"
METHOD
AND
IV.
ADVANTAGES
LODGINGS,
34
LETTERS,
WHITEHALL,
ST.
METHODS
TRANSPORTATION,
OF
WESTMINSTER
PAUL'S,
ABBEY,
AND
WORTHY
NOTECATHEDRAL,
PARKS,
PALACES,
BUILDINGS
AND
HOUSES,
A
FOR
GENERAL
ACCOUNT
TEA
FRENCH
SHOPS
CAN
TO
OF
PATRONISE
OF
WHICH
ETC.,
MAKE
TO
A
ADVANTAGE
EXPENSES
xi
A
Go
MONEY
RANTS,
RESTAU-
THE
LITTLE-KNOWN
AND
CAFES,
WISHING
AMOUNT
OF
THOSE
MODERATE
LONG
WAY,
"
ORANDUM
MEM44
xii
CONTENTS
CHAPTER
VI.
PAGE
THE
ENVIRONS
HAMPTON
LONDON,
EPPING
EST,
FORRICHMOND,
OF
COURT, KEW,
GREENWICH
EXCURSION
AND
AN
WINDSOR
COSTS
TO
AND
ETON, WITH
WAYS
GOING
MEMORANDUM
AND
OF
EXPENSES
OF
STRATFORD-ON-AVON
How
GET
AND
TO
THERE"
THE
DUAL
DEITIES"HINTS
SEEING
WOODSTOCK
ON
KENILWORTH,
BLENHEIM
OF
THE
GLORY
OXFORD
OF
AND
; ITS COLLEGES
SPACIOUS
CHURCHES,
QUADRANGLES
WINDING
DENT
STUBACK
WATERS
AND
LODGINGS
How
FOUND
WE
AND
HISTORY
THEM
RANDUM
MEMOINCARNATE
EXPENSES
OF
ENGLISH
THE
CHARMS
WATERING
PLACES
RIVAL
BRIGHTON
CHARMS
OF
HOVE,
OF
WORTHING
NEWROTTINGDEAN,
AND
HAVEN"CYCLING
EXCURSIONS
LONIN
DON-BY-THE-SEA"
THE
PAVILION
AND
GEORGE
MEMORIES
FOURTH
THE
OF
MEMORANDUM
EXPENSES
OF
BELGIUM
How
GET
THERE
OSTO
AND
ITS
FASCINATION
AND
THE
TEND,
CONTRAST
SHARP
BRUGES
OF
AND
GHENT"
WOODS
NAMUR,
DINANT, THE
RlVERS
ARDENNES
THE
THE
OF
AND
RIVER
SUBTERRANEAN
FAMOUS
AND
HAN
AN
UNEXPECTED
GROTTO
DE
VENTURE
INTO
BOWELS
THE
THE
OF
EARTH"
EXPENSES
MEMORANDUM
OF
FIELD
BRUSSELS
WATERLOO
THE
WITH
OF
FARMS
ITS MONUMENT
HISTORIC
AND
HINT
CHATEAUX
A
ANTWERP,
AND
ITS GLORIES
WARNING
OF
TO
AND
A
THAN
OTHERS
WE
LONGER
STAY
TO
ONE'S
LODGING
METHODS
OF
DID, WITH
SELF COMFORTABLY
UNDUE
(WITHOUT
ORANDUM
MEMCITY
FOREIGN
IN
A
EXPENSE)
"
VII.
VIII.
55
67
"
"
IX.
"
74
"
"
...
X.
80
"
"
"
.
XI.
91
"
"
"
EXPENSES
OF
XII.
DARING
ROUTE
PROJECTS
FOR
THE
"
104
FURTHER
RIVIERA
"
AFIELD
LEAST
"
EN
Ex-
xiii
CONTENTS
CHAPTER
PAGE
PENSIVE
AND
ROUTES
NEED
A STOP-OVER
OF
"
"
CHURCHES
MOST
POLICE
AT
THE
"
IRONY
HUMAN
MEMORANDUM
THE
AND
LIFE
HER
THE
"
MAID
OF
HABILITATION
RE-
THE
OF
"
OF
CONVENIENT
NOTIFICATION
CITY
ROUEN, THE
OF
LEANS,"
OR-
TRAGEDY
OF
OF
PENSES
EX115
XIII.
IN
"
FRANCE
CONSEILS
"
PRATIQUE"
"
PERS
INQUISITORIAL PASTULATIN
HINTS, DENTS,
QUARTER
TAURANTS
RESAND
HOSTELRIES, CLUBS
HOTELS
THEIR
AND
"
TIPPING
RULE
TIP
LITTLE"
"Tip
OFTEN
BUT
OMNIBUSES
REGARDING
RULES
SEE ; NAPOLEON'S
THE
PARIS
WHAT
TO
JOYS OF
;
BOURG,
THE
LOUVRE, LUXEMTOMB,
STE. CHAPELLE,
NOTRE
DAME,
PRISON
TRAGIC
CONCIERGERIE
THE
OF
THE
MARKETS
MEMORIES
AND
WHEN
VERSAILLES
BOULEVARDS
AND
Go
ST. CLOUD, AND
THE
TO
THERE,
SEEING
NECESSITY
ABSOLUTE
OF
IT;
TEA
RIVER EXCURSION
THERETO, WITH
IT
END
CHALET
THE
IN
THE
AT
OF
MEMORANDUM
EXPENSES
OF
HOTELS
CARLO
MONTE
AND
PENSIONS,
FRENCH
"
"
"
.
XIV.
126
.
"
"
"
"
.
XV.
.
.
136
"
ROOMS,
RESTAURANTS,
PRICES
AND
THE
How
CASINO
AND
THERETO
ENTRANCE
"THE
MAN
WHO
BANK
BROKE
THE
OUR
TION
DETERMINACARLO"
MONTE
AT
RESULT
HIM
THE
AND
TO RIVAL
TAINMENTS
ENTERVARIOUS
OPERAS,
CONCERTS,
TIONS
SUPERSTILEGENDS
AND
LOCALITIES
OBTAIN
TO
"
"
"
"
"
OF
XVI.
ON
THE
PLACE
145
D'AZUR"
NICE,
MENTONE,
LAGES,
VILCARNIVALS"
FISHING
AND
THE
WALKING
TOURS,
MOUNTAIN
DER
BOROVER
EXCURSION
THE
AND
AN
COUNTS
ACA
ITALY
CASTING
INTO
OF
TOTAL
RETURN
LONDON
TO
EXPENSES
MEMORANDUM
OF
THE
COTE
"
"
"
.
.
.
156
CONTENTS
XIV
CHAPTER
XVII.
PAGE
AN
UNEXPECTED
WINDFALL
WILD
SIRES,
DEMUCH
DISCUSSION
MANY
OF
POSSIBILITIES
SUPPLEMENTARY
AND
A
CRUISE
HINTS
CLOTHES
TO
AS
COMFORTABLE
REQUISITE FOR
A
NEY
JOURLAND
MIDNIGHT
THE
THE
TO
OF
SUN
ARRIVAL
NORWAY
168
AT
"
"
"
.
XVIII.
.
.
FIRST
GLIMPSES
NORWEGIAN
WONDERS
OF
BUKEN
BONDHUS
FJORD" THE
GLACIER
MOUNTAINS
CLIFFS,
AND
LAKES
OUR
ANCHORAGE
SUNAT
A
NORWEGIAN
FLOWER
DECKED
DAL
GLEN
THE
FOGLEFOND
ONE
THE
OF
FINEST
SNOW
FIELDS
EUROPE
IN
MERRY
GATHERINGS
ABOUT
GYPSY
THE
FIRE
WALKS
SCRAMBLES
AND
"
THE
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
.
XIX.
DOWN
FJORDS
VIK
THE
RAVINES
.
174
HARDANNORWEGIAN
AN
GER
TRODUCTION
INA ROAD
TO
STOLLJAERRES
BLASTED
LIVING
FROM
ROCK
THE
SOMBRENESS
SCENERY
PRESSIVE
OPTHE
OF
SENSE
TRAGEDY
THE
OF
MARVEL
VORINGFOS
THE
FALL,
WATEROF
ITS STUPENDOUS
LEAP
181
WITH
THE
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
.
XX.
A
NORWEGIAN
TOWN
BERGEN, ONE
OF
SURPRISES
NORWAY
TION
ATTRACTHE
OF
SHOPS
WHAT
BUY
THE
OF
TO
EMBROIDERY
FILIGREE
INGS,
SILVER, CARVSEE
WHAT
FURS,
ETC.
TO
THE
OPEN-AIR
FISH
TOWER
MARKET,
CHURCH
THEN
THOUSAND
AND
A
FEET
CLIMB
VIEW
INLAND
FOR
A
AND
OUTWARD
NORTH
SEA"
THE
THE
TO
INNER
LEAD
SAIL
A
BEYOND
SCRIPTION
DE"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
188
XXI.
SCENES
OF
THE
MARGIN
THE
TWIN
FOS
WAY
THE
ON
AND
DUTCH-LIKE
NORWEGIAN
"
GIRLS"
THE
OF
THE
NATIONAL
A
TUMES
COS-
DRIVE
SANDVEN
ALONG
LAKE
"
WATERFALLS
LOTETHE
OF
SKAARSFOS
AALSUND
MODERN
MOLDE
A
AND
HEALTH
RESORT
"
"
"
.
.
.
194
CONTENTS
XV
CHAPTER
XXII.
PAGE
VILLAGE
THE
WITCHES
THE
FROM
VALLEY
OF
ROMSDAL-
THE
GEIR-
WONDERFUL
THE
"
FjORD
ANGER
XXIII.
AND
DOWN
HORN
THE
NAES"
OF
OIE
TO
201
HAUGEN"
ON
THENCE
TOSSE
BY
"
OVERLAND
AND
DRIVE
ALL
OF
OF
MOST
A
OF
ACCOUNTS
TO
STOLLJAERRE
"
THE
UNFORGETTABLE
LAST
VIEW
"
WONDERLAND
YACHT
NORHEIMSUND,
TO
LONGEST
BY
OF
THE
DUM
MEMORAN-
NORWAY
"
FOR
ENTIRE
CRUISE
207
How
Visit
Europe
to
Next
Nothing
to
on
How
2
cult to
who
obtain
a
insist upon
between
having
of the bunk
the head
five hundred
dollars.
incidental
the
on
It is
"
the
the
various
a
on
a
second
state
people who
not
can-
three
of
it
do
"
on
going
issued
and
surprising uniformity
class
course,
week
a
literature
descriptive
shipping companies
rate
or
shipsafloat.
for
time
spare
of
by
covered
dis-
price
first class
a
equivalentto
firstclass
(which usuallymeans
older)
is reckoned
steamer
the
and
though,
them, if second
among
of inches
possibleto
fastest
largestor
who
$45, includingtips
or
expenses,
I spent all my
freaks
for less than
comfortablyfor $40
over
are
the Atlantic
cross
not
the
certain number
a
partition. There
and
the millionaires
are
passage
specialsuites,or
want
room
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
as
boat.
Of
home
the
course
be
must
selection
of
a
of
locality
taken
into
point
of
the
passenger's
when
account
departure
is
the
made,
but, other thingsbeing equal,it is far pleasanter
to
go
by
"
a
one
class
ship
second, and, if the maximum
"
than
amount
dinary
or-
ON
of
NEXT
pleasure is to
be
is
"
by
If
the
one
is
by
pool,
Liver-
Allan, Dominion
and
is $35
$71
the
from
and
If
return.
class
is added,
class used
a
"
in
the fare is
"
After
chose
Ian
due
the
Line
counted
good ship
that
Royal
I
gle,
sin-
is to
direct
boat
is,
pensive
inex-
quite as
from
for
be
gow
Glasthird-
even
American
\
j
million-/
$6.25.
weighing
of
The
England by everybody
dukes, colonials and
aires
to
lines.
fare
the railroad
London
to
in Scotland,
Boston
London
headquarters, a
when
sidering.
con-
$40 westward
doubt, the best, and
without
save
travel
to
Anchor
or
eastward
all worth
are
route
Allan
Glasgow,
to
Havre,
wishes
cheapest
Glasgow
made
The
class
one
and
Pacific liners
Canadian
or
tainly
cer-
"
of
Montreal
of Le
way
direct.
or
rate
must
passage
choice
good
a
sailingfrom
London
and
minimum
a
foregone.
There
boats
3
for
be obtained
first class
a
expense,
NOTHING
TO
had
"
of the pros
"
Parisian
Mail
made
and
cons
of the Al-
j
and
/
Steamers
a
I \
clear
sav-/
How
4
ing of
she
weeks'
two
is
twelve
a
Montreal!
round
route
line delivers
each
fare
ticket be
another
by
fourteen
to
trip,with
and
board
The
return
a
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
taken
the
train
a
them
over
the
Gravesend
train
by
to
the
city and
companies end
such
and
as
further
a
If
for
the
pays
same
either
or
line.
This
mercial
the Com-
at
them
transfers
Tilbury,sending
or
St.,which
Fenchurch
is decidedly
convenient, being in the heart
more
of
is $40.
privilegeof returning
passengers
at
way
from
boat
day
$75
Docks, London,
to
lodging, for
hotel-land, whereas
their
at
ports,
searesponsibility
Southampton or Plymouth,
payment,
has
respectively,
most
to
of
be made
$1.49
$5.75
or
before
London,
is reached.
only disadvantage of travellingfrom
The
is the
Montreal
banks
of Newfoundland.
this there
and
I
prevalence of fog around
the
are
the beauties
amazingly
enjoyed
every
calm
moment
In
the
compensation for
of the St. Lawrence
sea.
Comrade
of the way
during the foggy period when
the
and
except
whistle
NEXT
ON
its warnings
moaned
for
of
at
collision with
a
then there
fog lifted suddenly for
intervals
there
a
was
another
ship
even
iceberg. Still,
an
the
pictureswhen
wonderful
were
5
minute
one
hours, and
thirty-six
fear of running down
some
constant
or
NOTHING
TO
the apparent
purpose
displayinga fleet of red-sailed fishing
boats, or a big sailingship,driftingsilently
of
bows.
our
across
and
stipulation,
One
date
of
should
be
(from the
")
and
bore
and
happy
to
should
hand.
that
act
take
as
you
limited
to
"
gage
lug-
suit
one
case
baggage is
main
The
hurt
a
spiritcarry
will
you
encounter.
of
kind
a
of
secret
pack
a
a
stand-by
reservoir, you
can
you
hat that
and
for
except
only what
Wear
not
a
leave
better still,
of
baggage
sailingto be called
expense.
means,
trunk
I maKc
travel is to go with littleimpedimenta,
which
will
an
that
was,
apiece. Excess
trunk
one
that
and
Comrade
with
only,did
one
carry
in
sprinkleof
your
it behind, and
one
rain
umbrella,
let
or,
buoyancy
through the few showers
But
remember
this,in
6
How
preparations,whatever
your
will be cold upon
thickest winter
if
for
As
side
suit,take
Wear
decide
you
different in fashion.
somewhat
and,
bag.
water
as
other
rule,
a
It is
for
insurance
can
you
the
marvellouslycheap, and,
are
your
rug,
better, for things on
the
if
season,
steamer
a
clothes,the less
with
the
the Atlantic.
hot
possible,a
do
EUROPE
YISIT
TO
a
good
for
plan
to
then
anxietyconcerning the possibleloss of
secure
it is lessened.
through
the
Insurance
rate
effected
be
can
firm of Mannheim's
German
the moderate
baggage,
of $2
for
policy,
$200
a
at
fullythe loss by damage or
theft.
The principalagents in America
are
F. Herrman,
Manager of the United States
covering
Branch
very
of
New
Chicago.
a
tourist's
from
Cook
the
Mannheim
York
If
City, and
personal
and
Sons
of
one
for
to
in the
stateroom
should
be
is
Wall,
desired,
be obtained
can
$2.50
three
possible,onlyluggage that
pany,
Com-
and
Orr
insurance
policyfor $2500
covering a period
If
Insurance
can
or
$5.00,
months.
be stowed
taken, otherwise
NEXT
ON
delays will
tiresome
"
labelled
through
"
Wanted
the
and
being sent
one's
bonded
with
unpacking and
table
the
at
companion,
travelling
preferred;if the
ing
arrang-
is
time
is then
left between
the bath.
"
the
meals
extras."
your
"
sufficientl
than
to
After
ting
sit-
one.
sufficient
gather an
fast
the break-
ascertained hie thee
been
to
The
is
usuallythe better,as
second
the stewardess
the
at
being more
The
has
and
secure
to
next
steamer
full to necessitate there
hour
the
identified before
be
is to
belongingsconveniently,
appetitefor
tials
ini-
your
the cabin.
to
accommodation
chosen
to
trouble
save
then
must
first step, after
The
"
to
be
must
of the ship, and
name
It
customs.
7
This
ensue.
in addition
the docks
to
NOTHING
TO
arrange
a
for
suitable hour
deck steward
should
to
next
be
concerninga chair, the price of
will range
(according to steamer)
interviewed
which
from
A
cents
fifty
twelve
long, but
in
daily round
or
to
a
dollar.
thirteen
realityit
of meals
day trip may
seem
quickly. The
much
time,
engrosses
passes
8
as
How
VISIT
TO
in addition
the
to
of breakfast, lunch
"
beef
tea
and
tea
at
always organized by
the
"
ended,
much
a
horizon.
the
a
bad
from
dollar
matter
allotted to
what
"
board.
Then
new
ships
friend-
begun,
romances,
all
passingships
do
whales,
Again,
of
colors
poise
por-
the
sea,
bergs
for ice-
approaches the
"
looms
tips
stewardess
large
and
important,unless
the deck
of
querades,
mas-
trials,etc., according
changing
sailor and
each
certs,
con-
passengers,
of the voyage
The
most
are
of the excitement.
the end
question of
too,
ceasing watchfulness
never
is part
are
the
attention, as
the
and
As
on
watched.
or
attract
noon
eleven,and after-
at
be formed, and
must
while
"
talent
"
come
performances, dances,
sports, mock
to
dinner, there
Amusements,
4.50.
theatrical
curriculum
ordinary
and
biscuits
EUROPE
to
the
the
upon
table steward
you
have
been
required a lot of attention
steward.
the
first
head
the cabins
these worthies
In
ordinarycases
two
suffices.
steward
and
the
The
man
depends entirelyupon
have
done.
Women
a
How
io
or
stand
bewildered
in
station.
railway
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
At
the
last
you
turmoil
are
of
upon
a
busy
pean
Euro-
soil!
OF
MEMORANDUM
One
fare
to
Tips,
stewardess
Rent
of
Church
deck
Europe
half
"
table
and
chair
collections,
a
return
steward
EXPENSE.
$38.00
2.00
50
etc
25
$40-75
II
CHAPTER
FIRST
DAY
HOTELS
AND
REGARD
TO
So
"
for
neither
lists the
used
to
in France
the
at
mouth
Perhaps,
"
of
Some
more.
to
ship
hastened
Havre
it
"
exhausted
in
and
its
was
an
a
They
quaint charm,
ii
for
Havre
the
it, dashed
day,
the
unlooked
Le
scorned
people
Paris.
tiny fishing village
enjoyed
we
in
to
a
Seine.
Rouen
swallow
the
the
in order
Marseilles
but
because
foreign part
port
to-day, the
was
it
as
second
is
after
our
on
tury,
cen-
in the
(coming
put
fourteenth
back
what
importance)
I had
an
company,
Havre-de-Grace,"
"
called
be
of
kind
a
as
shipping
nor
of
name
the
by
Comrade
when,
of
in
in Le
spent
was
this
on
INJ
EXPENSES.
OF
Europe
looked
thrown
extra
in
MAKE
TO
MEMORANDUM
"
day
We
Havre.
"
LANDING
LONDON,
IN
ARRANGEMENTS
NECESSARY
first
OUR
ARRIVAL
CONTINENT,
THE
ON
rejoined
and
evening.
knew
and
on
Others
nothing
of
because
of
How
i2
their
did
years
before
the cries of
That
leader
of
Medici
Nor
her
did
had
the
are
among
The
with
the gangway
walk
is
fightingby
the
Catherine
de
besiegersin
become
of France's
one
had
and
years
had
They
been
not
even
which
on
score
at
accommodation
the time the
tide and
or
so
a
for
tug boat, in
and
last put down
big vessels through
shiphangs
liners,until
more
ashore, is engrossing. The
of the
son.
per-
some
safe
from
a
held
was
part of the globe.
every
outside, waiting
company
town
finest in the world, offering
of
passage,
the
the intricate docks
to
acres
vessels from
it
Conde,
realise that
in the saloon
the
150
over
of
fortresses.
entrance
de
delivered
led the
they
Havre
playingcards
seen
had
though
son
important
most
Prince
year
Warwick,
and
later Le
famous
stubborn
a
to
rung
factions.
warring
the
scorn.
hundred
had
Elizabeth, for whom
through
Earl
nearly four
streets
narrow
Huguenots,
Queen
to
the
once,
of
that
know
not
their
forgave
we
ignorance
They
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
a
one
may
ing
manoeuvr-
waterway
as
ON
congested
NEXT
Broadway
as
marvellous
TO
through the throng
boats
State
Street, the
or
of
one
steered
they are
giantwarships,sombre
torpedo destroyers and
lea of the
13
in which
manner
makes
NOTHING
and
tiny tugs
while
gasp,
boats,
ferry-
behind, under
breakwater, the red-sailed fishing
of
againsta background
dancing water
French
white-fronted, green-shuttered,
and
houses, offer
capitalfield for
a
kodak
the
fiend.
It is
Havre
Le
gives
through
docks
the
"
and
from
place
bassins
the
a
a
town
sing
lightshang
welcome
from
foreign lands, and
of
fall
night-
mystery,
only be guessed
and
freed
figures,
a
when
the intricacies of
can
to
ter
en-
shipsloomvaguely
"
come
to
tintingwater,
tinge
hillside necklace
lined with
are
is
sun
the darkness, and
When
"
the
the outlines of great
when
at
when
it is best
low-lyinghills alike,or
and
town
point whether
moot
a
to
to
like
ant
pend-
a
the wharves
from
toil,who
ships arriving
greet
returning
friends.
Once
landed
in Le
Havre
there
is
a
gen-
How
i4
VISIT
TO
eral rush of passengers
be
can
about
fun
In
carriageone
of the
what
to
hour.
to
for
is yours
Bernadin
St Pierre, the
both
were
than
more
sought out
author
of
de
the notables
one
Havre, for
Mademoiselle
among
a
who
Paul
Scudery
first saw
lighthere.
the
Comrade
in obedience
and,
which
car,
at
which, for
"
the
as
in each
there
of
at the
post-office
de Paris,the main
directions,
captain's
street
of
(the name
found
fifteen centimes
happened
the
rightdown
landmark)
and
ten
the
Beliot
a
as
the
to
to
the Cafe
noted
we
vacant
I turned
and
the quay,
to
glance and
in Le
be
Virginia,and
edge
the knowl-
foreignland,
a
a
birthplaceof
de
fancy.
of
historyand identity
the
see,
The
foot,in
celebrity
may
and
one's
friend,and information
is your
buildings,etc.
smile.
On
charge,
it is better
But
relyupon
must
Jehu.
all the world
as
nominal
merely
a
carriageswhicK
exploringaccordingto
go
a
the
to
quarter per
a
to
for
hired
EUROPE
two
be
to
classes
south
in the
end
"
a
took
a
spectively
re-
seat
us
of the Rue
town.
Noting
NEXT
ON
tHe color of the car,
right one
again, we
from
to
side
such
buying
the
trinkets
of
Dame
that
we
got
off and
might find the
centuries
Grace, and
market
the Cafe
At
place.
Tortoni
Here, disdainingan
surfeit of formal
cafe
beurre
all the
"
as
"
modest
at
lait "
au
and
in the Place
of
for
cafe down
"
twelve
quarter
pays
for
"
market.
after
our
ship,we
call those
with
galed
re-
three
nicest of
apiece.
cents
while
au
butter, for the
at
de Paris and
a
Gam-
croissants
table d'hote
fiftycents,
the Rue
the
on
delicious
little breads
sum
flower
we
quaint, tall glasses of
the French
this restaurant,
be had
a
with
church
length
ordinarylunch
meals
ourselves
old
bartering for
betta, facing the tree-shaded
"
wandered
(for the shop
the charms
of Havre),
as
liked, restingin
we
that
de
fruit in the
reached
of
one
coolness
Notre
15
side of the road
form
windows
NOTHING
TO
course
Even
dejeunerscan
many
a
other
meal
little
streets
with
cider.
What
we
noted
would
the
we
do
next,
we
debated,
picturesqueeffect given by
as
the
1
6
How
and
streets
narrow
ships and
VISIT
TO
tall
the bassins
masts
in
out
is
"
be
Adresse
and
its
should
be
"
drawn
down
for the
the
of Le
still the
be
aside.
Should
half
we
as
a
view,
Comrade
hour's
of
interesting
Normandie?
St.
Havre
Or
secure
our
reminded
me,
gendarmerie, the stock
I waved
devote
ordinary things when
an
of
offers the attraction
"
properly.
lar
funicu-
obtained?
exchange,courts, picturegallery,
museum
cityhall to be seen, if we would
Havre
ners
cor-
noisydelightsof
the finest view
lighthouseas well
attendance ? Then, as
such
they
the fashionable
suburb
Heve, which
the
graph.
photo-
a
the
to
surroundings can
were
to
take
we
up
of
there
of
in which
manner
preserved in
Should
where
La
feature
a
saunter
we
Frascati
casino?
and
thatenablebig
unexpected quarters and odd
Should
the
The
thing to
a
be
to
shopping district.
crop
EUROPE
journey of
the smaller
Fifty cents
Honfleur, rich in dramatic
her
and
"
do
Le
suggestions
precious time
we
some
were
to
within
of the
most
placesin all historic
would
take
memories
us
to
of the
ti8
How
danger,
the
realisation
mob
broken
One
EUROPE
of
that
other
their
in
strong
was
the
VISIT
TO
spiritof the
minds
French
lution
revo-
and
"
had
people
loose.
is
glad to
remember
in his attempt, the
king
that,when
from
returned
ville,they ultimatelyreached
foiled
the
Trou-
haven
of
English boat together,and, under plebian
English names,
gained English shores in
an
safety.
But
Comrade
vowed
not
French
a
to
shook
her
Trouville,that
see
watering places?
fellow passenger
Island
isn't
in
had
it
the
it
was
a
with
the
four
each way,
cents
for luck
gayest of gay
that
us
"
be
must
sought
the
set
off for
what
journey
started
Coney
knew
across
from
the
first class,thirty-
was,
second, eighteen. Praying
jettyand
stage.
that
; we
regarding the catching of
we
gorgeous
it
boats
front and that the fare
we
Trouville/* and
forty minute
that
water,
Had
I remembered
told
capitulated. Trouville
that
head.
seemed
a
time
a
brief
Trouville
is
boats
table, then
hour
on
a
like
certainly
NEXT
ON
a
play
toilettes of
lives
gigantic scale
a
on
the
actors
dress
to
prices are
spent
as
for
felt that
had
place of dancing.
that
such
sands
and
while
for
the sands
upon
unwittingly
swimming took the
mermaids
scale-
was
the white
with
for
waters
for
were
girlslike
strollingabout
audience
ize
real-
impossibleto
costumes
were
dancing
an
was
We
squires in marvellous
attendant
like creations
enormous
stumbled
wondrous
Here
daily use.
with
It
One
costumes.
suddenly
we
the
as
concerned.
are
masquerade where
a
upon
far
so
bathing
on
came
we
19
Trouville, and
at
gasped
we
NOTHING
TO
background,
a
vast, fashionable
a
assemblage of their friends.
Trouville
place where
a
vast
and
"
the
costume
"
simple life
Everyone
bathing in the morning,
in the
to
afternoon
outshine
that
Trouville
costs
the most.
one
of
sought
at
ing
donkey- rid-
promenade
to
and
all others
will be
is
goes
evenings. Everywhere
is
of
villagefor millionaires,a
a
expense.
concerts
the
is
to
dances
in
the supreme
sire
de-
and
the
to
The
colour
wear
memory
and
ex-
How
20
VISIT
TO
We
travagance.
EUROPE
from
turned
it to seek
in its
its green
meadows, and
of relief.
found a sense
tranquillity
Caen
amid
Caen
here
was
nearly nine
to
be sacked
centuries ago
by
and
the
Corday,
that
girlhood,walked the streets
house
call prosaic today. The
the greatest dandy the
Brummel
in her
of
known,
the
piecesde
the
resistance
are
those
"
has
of William
the tombs
Conqueror and Matilda
Beau
And, for
stillbe visited.
can
men
world
"
ever
English
toric
is rich in his-
Charlotte
remembrances.
out
uments
mon-
by way of penance for marrying
within the proscribeddegree. Alas, a clock
another in
struck, and we
gazed at one
had
Our
amazement.
day in Normandie
built
fled.
hastened
We
back
to
the
ship
to
change
ex-
experienceswith the little group
who
passengers
of
their way
continuing
were
to
England.
A
night of
Dover
church
"
"
rest
then the white
"
of locating" the first
the eagerness
ever
built
on
cliffsof
England's shores
first lighthouseever
erected
"
"
"
and
"
the
Wai-
ON
NEXT
NOTHING
TO
Castle,the fortress wherein
mer
the
with
is a gun
quaintinscription
"
Load
well
me
be
seen
passed
the
France
can
we
Sands, then seaside
book
train
true,
me
it is believable for the faint outline
And
Next
and
shell into Calais blue."
I'll drop my
of
21
and
dangerous Goodwin
through
resorts, known
and
Deal
Margate,
places,all so
paper,
of less known
channel.
the
across
score
a
close that houses
distinguishedwithout the aid of
the broad
glasses. Then
estuary of the
river
the gradually narrowing
Thames,
the
which
banks, and Greenwich, from
its longiworld measures
tude.
English-speaking
be
can
At
landing,and the sudden
the ship is no
longer your
last the
realisation that
home; that henceforward
yourselfin
hotel?"
"What
the hour.
a
unknown
an
The
rate
for
breakfast
another
a
find for
must
country.
the
becomes
Cecil is known
great caravanserie
the
you
beloved
singlebedroom
to
questionof
all
men
of Americans
is 1.25 per
cents,
sixtyto seventy-five
with dinner at
seventy-five,
"
"
day,
luncheon
a
dollar
How
22
and
The
quarter.
a
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
the
Fenchurch
being only a
Street
ride distant.
of
worth
price,lies the
Russell
Great
provided with
are
bath
and
$1.25.
from
place for
the
ascertain
omnibus
an
attracts
makes
a
priceof
where
modation
accom-
ride, to get
the eye,
and
of
master
in
is a land where
questionsand
'bus drivers
the stranger
to
a
at any
usuallyprovides
for the firstnight,
excitement
English accent
motor
bedroom,
of London, with dinner
infinitesimal differences
of
you
telephone around
to
sufficientamusement
answer
wherein
a
provided. When
resting
night has been found, peace of
that
England
Kenil-
be
view
bird's-eye
with the added
these,in
for the inclusive
it is well
returns, and
restaurant
Street
bus
omni-
cent
Hotel
comfortable
the station and
can
mind
a
breakfast
But
two
between
Midway
both distance and
to
Hotel,
patronisedby English people,has much
convenient
to
charges and is more
same
more
the
Eastern
Great
tryingto
catch
the curious
if
phraseology.
everyone
the
has time
politeness,even
each other,positively
giddy.
ON
NEXT
MEMORANDUM
OF
DAY
A
Cars,
Coffee,
NORMANDIE.
IN
$
eighty
franc
one
rolls
Waiter's
and
fee,
23
EXPENSE.
centimes
20
Boats,
NOTHING
TO
butter,
36
60
centimes
12
centimes
10
.04
02
$0.64
NIGHT
FIRST
Dinner,
two
Omnibus
Cloak
Hotel,
Extras,
$
sixpence
for
charge
room
night,
half
Breakfast,
two
ENGLAND.
shillings
fares,
one
IN
a
five
crown
shillings
.50
12
trunk,
shillings
two
pence
04
1.25
60
50
$3.01
CHAPTER
SECURING
LONDON
ROMANCE
THE
OF
METHOD
IT
is
an
matter
easy
in various
the
AND
consist
of
want
to
seem
boarding
houses
get, and
not
to
a
district
return
to
of
transients.
end
of this great
not
precious.
Accordingly we
our
way
London,
by
24
hood
neighbor-
It struck
to
motor
we
for
the
the
if time
take
rooms
did
clined
feel in-
not
at
be
would
for what
even
to
seems
there
were
to
go
alone.
we
decided
apart
which
lodgings
our
for
set
in the
paying
meal, supposing
wended
of houses
certainlyshould
we
ings
lodg-
be
that
Comrade,
in
TRANSFERENCE
Americans
Museum
of wisdom
ENGLISH
DINE,
streets
on
British
also
and
me,
HINT
A
ABODE.
part,
that
"
WITH
find temporary
Streets
most
of the
so
BAGGAGE,
to
localities
Bloomsbury
of
TO
especial accommodation
For
a
WHERE
"
CERTAIN
OF
CITY
THE
OF
TEMPORARY
TO
in London.
the
IT
OF
BELONGINGS
ALL
OF
VIEW
COLLECTING
OF
ADVANTAGES
LODGINGS,
GENERAL
DISTRICTS,
III
sake
other
were
only,
'bus to Victoria
26
How
four
other
between
better
numbers
and
weekly rental
of the
with
to
an
or
pence
abundance
Warwick
shillings
respectively,
Bathrooms
asserting
seems
houses
is
manage
no
of water,
of the old
to
make
use
towels.
and
soap
for
sum
provided
are
the south-west
convenient
usual
un-
for the modest
sixpenceyou
St.,indeed
generally,is
back, for
of twelve
This
publicbaths, where
of three
fared
tably
comfor-
landladies
"
only way
and
attendance.
they didn't pay!
deficiencyin London
group
we
six pence
rarities, the
type, the
101
front
rooms,
and
eightshillings
"
the
exceedinglyclean
includinglightsand
that
from
and
81
found
the moderate
seemed
EUROPE
places chosen
furnished
and
VISIT
TO
district
sightseers,
as
it
is within
bus
walking distance (or a penny omniof the thingsone
wants
to
ride) of many
see.
Buckingham
distance
Palace
is
afoot, and, when
royaltiesare
residence,perpetual pageants
The
Mall
and
the Palace, form
to
are
Constitution
easy
be
Hill
excellent vantage
Again, besides being within
minutes
only ten
in
seen.
outside
grounds.
reach
of the
NEXT
TO
parks, St. James,
Green
ON
to
the river
great hotels and
the
tables.
the
are
seen.
down,
and
wended
We
"
and
did
beheaded
not
and
arranged
of Parliament,
the
picture to
down
it,in
taken
were
"
Traitor's
Hill!
in
neglectpracticalmatters
there
should
the
was
city,and kings
Tower
to
of
can
their way
on
dainty
turrets
the Thames
excitement,remembering
landlady that
the
the
barges. Nobles
gailybedecked
route
to be landed
at
by the same
Gate
the
the famous
comes
You
thoroughfare of
courtiers
of
splendid
sit at
on,
out.
yourselfthe time when
greatest
A
members
yet further
stand
Tower
Embankment,
to
of which, if itbe afternoon,
the
Lower
and
Temple
the
of the Houses
terrace
of
guests
tea
clubs
too, is obtained
on
under
journeys
one
as
beside
bridges, down
going
exceedinglypleasantway
citythis is an
travellingand
the
view,
When
they ought.
frequentlyas
Hyde, greatly
comparativelyclose
ply boats though not so
which
on
and
27
it is
by Londoners,
used
NOTHING
with
stipulate
be
"
no
for breakfast, which
extras
seems
our
our
"
to
28
How
VISIT
TO
cost, in London,
sixpence,eightpenceor
shilling
according to
These
omnibus
descended
Victoria
at
electric
The
Station.
them
send
St. that
our
apiece. It was
things out a bit and
trunkful
needed
until
The
to
of
such
then
out
firstlittlematter
lunch
at
to
the famous
at
provide
we
came
us
to
sort
storage
be
not
return.
that all
restaurant
with
our
Wine
turningoff
much
as
"
therefore
and
the ancient
to
would
Cheshire
lucky, in
Wednesday
send
to
we
Cheese,
our
off
went
tent
con-
worldly
insured.
possessionswere
were
in Warwick
arranged
in the remembrance
We
undertook
intention
our
things as
set
we
St.
morning, for nine-
night,or earlynext
pence
a
Fenchurch
abode
new
had
boxes
railway company
to
ground
under-
by
our
at
room
a
the door,
by
went
city,for
the
left in the cloak
been
to
to
and
boarded
we
it swept
as
a
requirements.
your
being settled
details
Vanguard
EUROPE
we
it
as
and
Fleet St. and
a
pudding day,"
had
selected
first luncheon.
court
was
found
to
When
it
a
row
nar-
then discovered
ON
NEXT
the Cheshire
shape
Cheese
it had
as
NOTHING
TO
itself
(inmuch
in the
been
it
to
was
modern, that
sight of
had
we
the
two
have
days
same
when
Dr.
floor
spiritssoared,
London,
much
as
the
crossed
of the
the book
celebrities who
worth
old
see
the
its sanded
Johnson dined there), with
and
our
low-ceilingedroom,
for
29
The
seas.
autographs,of
dined
as
the
there, is alone
for the beefsteak
shillings
charged
pudding!
Like
giants refreshed
hotel where
from
bags
our
drove
spent the
St.
amid
be whirled
It
along
a
hansom
was
in
millions
It seemed
until
Then
wondered
we
left
first we
to
we
if all London's
as
looked
on
that there
fillthe cabs !
looked
cabs and
be in the endless
must
vehicles
At
wheeled
two
a
and
tors,
ponderous omnibuses, tootingmo-
other hansoms.
enough
the
decided
a
four-wheeled
speeding cyclists,
seven
to
night,collected
hailed
office,
the
Warwick
to
noveltyto
box
had
we
back
went
we
at
them
Surelysomething terrible
the
were
And
with
must
line of
pavements.
yet people
the
police!
startled eyes.
have
happened
How
30
in the
at
of
It
not
was
considerable
distance
in London,
realise
In
truth, the
that I had
the
with
in
were
that had
to
been
modern
from
year.
the
we
realised
of
a
that,
sight of
the peace.
awed
an
driven
'
We
me.
"
voice.
Do
is London!"
of findinga
responsibility
gathering together of our
engrossed
so
me
start.
a
London
London,
and
which
brain
exploring a
"
citymany
all parts
to
by
each
a
it hundreds
London
that
pinched
said
in
realised,to the full extent, and
not
awoke
was
had
belongings,had
scattered
We
we
This
it?
lodging,and
now
until
Comrade
in London,"
They
singly,but
not
guardians of
Suddenly
blue?
rarely out
are
you
the uniformed
you
and
else this
Why
in
men
corner
every
groups!
are
districts.
surrounding
appalling number
were
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
the
as
the
city that
of
the
as
C.
seers
sight-
world
muscle, is
Romance!
It
draws
world.
best the
well
of
of
thousands
Literary London,
London
B.
years
city
The
duces,
prosent
don,
artistic Lon"
Romans,
NEXT
ON
and
Saxons, Normans
lives
their
such
saw
London
and
land
our
and
London
had
and
fire.
consisted
when
Bishopsof
Row,
and
convents
Black-
and
jostled each
to
London
prevent
all empty
grew
it.
year
Even
houses
other
by
in the
year
streets.
despiteefforts
Elizabeth's
less than
thusians
Car-
decree, that
seven
years
should
be
pulled down,
and
should
be
erected, had
little effect.
born
and
asteries,
mon-
Benidictines, Dominican
friars, Franciscans, Augustines and
For
of
thirds
two
once
of
the
familiar
Other
Paternoster
that
us
city,was
ease
ravaged by dis-
St. Whitefriars
reminders
"
around
walled
water,
eyes.
Carmelite
friars
by hearsay!
"
a
destroyed by
met
names
forefathers,
our
Aldgate
as
the
to-day.
existingreminders
that,
besieged by
and
are
do
as
passing omnibuses
as
given
is sounded
well
so
names
They
gate.
old
fast
the
On
we
know
citywe
ages,
cityof
all it is the
Abov*
past
3*
have
Danes
the need
when
moderns
the
it in
to
NOTHING
TO
no
ones
new
Bloomsbury through which
old
we
Hoihad
How
32
passed'were
people
Fleet
for
suburb
a
Moorfields
This
in the
something.
the
swamps
given by
school-boy,messenger
retainer.
Old
eyes
sounds
the
"
the
and
wherein
lack
or
Modern
assails the
and
tourist
But
the
in odd
still,
which
buildingsaround
fought
"
taxi
the ancient churches
they worshipped.
cities in
Other
and
streets
the
the old
forefathers
our
of
omnibus!
motor
stand
corners
ears
London
by an
family
is dead.
in the
the
reminder
worn
occasional
London
a
when
and
them,
costume
London
flowing
realized
for
a
once
was
swift
a
Open
old; save
quaint
some
St.
den
Gar-
Covent
only be
can
shut.
are
eyes
it
fourteenth
Strand
Fleet
busy
its associations,
meant
The
garden.
busy waterway.
river.
To-day
modern
air.
and
signified
fields,
a
was
to
of
back
names
which
resorts
for
away
Then,
century.
the
change
famous
Street
was
country
once
went
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
some
ordinary
other
lands
have
wider
higher buildings. They
of
eye,
London's
the crowds
millions but,
elsewhere
may
to
seem
the
as
CHAPTER
BEGINNING
SIGHTSEEING
OF
ACADEMY,
MUSEUMS"
OUR
real
thing
World
is
shall
just
to
so
and
I
so
to
selected
where,
Canute
carry
a
our
in
therefore
help
my
follow
in my
of
joy.
ancient
with
up
went
do, for the Old
chose
footsteps,
the Tower
structure,
boat
way
bygone
sailed
his
English
I
memory,
that
prison successively,
bound
equipage
diary, every
wonders,
measure
that
HISTORIC
It will be
this,my
first objective we
our
OPEN,
OF
begun.
to
who
full
London,
palace
of
notes
aid those
get their
For
of
make
GENERALLY
and
see
full
so
TAINING
OB-
OF
OMITTED.
in
we
MENT,
MONU-
METHOD
MENTION
BE
down
put
individual
to
BRIEF
NOT
"
NOT
sightseeinghas
hopeless to
and
THOSE
A
MUST
RIVER, TOWER,
GALLERIES
TO
ALSO
THAT
THE
"
PICTURE
ADMISSION
PLACES
IV
fortress,
has
history.
been
For
us
thereto, Comrade
and
at
Vauxhall
and
down
ages,
the
the
"
great
34
Bridge,
historic
Father
fleet of
river
of
King
ninety-
ON
NEXT
ships,"in
four
Our
only regret
such
his
by
Tower
Instead
!
had
we
could
we
tickets
apiece, for, despite
we
being
or
too
had
twelve
memories
as
century
passed
we
archways and under the
which
Lady Jane Grey
headless
to
body
slipped from
the
beneath
hoary
from
window
very
had
carried
our
her
seen
band's
hus-
in,and watched
which
she
from
the
be beheaded.
Comrade
could
jewels.
coronets
sceptres
hardly be
Such
running
beyond belief!
were
day,
Monday
a
the building of the scaffold upon
and
free
a
impatientto wait for
twentieth
The
crown
of
Saturday.
a
was
cent
vows
our
selected
not
the
leave
an
economy
the
prosaically
walk
camera
been
enter
to
ordinary entrance,
and obtain a couple of
through
land
not
have
which
to
don
Lon-
succeeded.
It would
picturesqueway
a
35
conquer
son
that
was
Gate."
"Traitors'
at
to
attempt
an
feat in which
a
"
NOTHING
TO
And
and
torn
collection
a
to
waste
of
crowns
unworn
then, in addition
crosses,
badges,
stars
was
there
and
36
How
collars
that
glass
to
"
made
say
make
such
souvenirs!
The
feel
would
lust of
If all those
souls.
that she has
a
them
and
of
"
before
I
He
guard."
lovelyruff
of knee
law
to
"
a
breeches
"
occasions
"
It would
with
from
amazement
and
with
red
too,
silk
be bad
of
the
wore
a
yeoman
wonderful
holiday
blue
wear
guard the
to
"
or
ruptible
incor-
Comrade
gasp
hat, to
ing
noth-
say
long silk stockings.
This, he kindlyexplainedto
day and
tion
visit the collec-
clad in scarlet and
was
and
who
dragged
beef-eater
a
splendid
possession entered
the
turned
we
annoint-
failingsupply of
never
minions
glass cases!
the
did, it is lucky for England
we
as
break
to
sacred
that
our
long
one
nothing of the
spoons
ing
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
"
us,
high-
a
was
uniform.
Usually they
trimmings. On ordinary
stockings are
not
worn.
for the 'ealth,"he ended
gravely.
Oh,
modern
costume
the
!
curious
For
blending of ancient
the sake
of tradition
is kept in all its glory,but
of the chilliness of the
a
and
the old
tion
recogni-
English climate,
NEXT
ON
latter
and
day
NOTHING
TO
well-beingof
for the
concern
37
ities
publicservants, has persuaded the authorto provide worsted
stockingsinstead of
the
silk
old
has
caused
it
planted with
The
oldest
the
to
of
part
the
William
and
France
the
the
and
giene
hy-
water
It
dates
of
days
in
was
this
of
Scotland, John
of half the nobles
ancestors
day
of
is the
and
the
and
of
David
of the present
Richard
fortress
the
Conqueror.
that
Tower
of
"Keep"
or
hundreds
ten
emptied
the
!
grass
Tower
White
knowledge
be
to
while
And,
is still there, a
moat
and
fetes!"
for
"except
imprisoned.
were
Here
signed his abdication
Second
while
smothered
the little princes were
they slept.
the
Up
the thickness
we
We
had
to
stairway,built
corkscrew-like
go
peered
at
admired
the
arranged
arms;
notables
of the wall and
the
are
singly,
the
vast
state
marvelled
their
at
the
that
narrow
apartments.
collection of
brightness of
upon
so
in
armour;
artistically
the array
prancing
of
armour-
cient
an-
How
38
clad
steeds; called
tragic happenings
as
looked
we
Then
wandered
stood
the
scaffold
the
priceof
that
did
we
seemed
past
dress
of
Earl
the soldiers
realise the
But
with
country
the
of
due
(who
once
as
figure,the ten-dayIt
was
some
river breeze, the
about
modern
The
ago.
old
the Tower,
place and
tragic side
of
should
have
decorum
had
not
us
our
the
own
our
exploring made
we
great
a
but
course,
long
very
of
Countess
their doom,
met
in the
stood
Boleyn,
as
of
us,
once
only yieldedit up
ransom)
exhilaratingsense
away
the
of Essex
and
sunlighton the gloomy
to
Anne
Jane Grey.
for
moment
as
which
on
patheticyoung
Lady
queen,
how,
his
torture.
the site where
to
Howard,
the Tower
of
instruments
out
Salisburyand the
owned
trious
illus-
the walls; shuddered
on
other
Katherine
Queen
the
man's
the thumb-screws, the heads-
at
and
axe
the sight of
at
of
memories
vague
up
carved
names
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
able
un-
roundings.
sur-
turned
a
young
bumpkin, reading,to his companion,
concerning the victims of the
inscription
ON
NEXT
headsman's
beggars !
It is
"
hunting at
wise
do
to
Tower
the
we
feet
202
and
started
we
realised
the
what
Monument
in 1666
in the heat
up
of
narrow
were
we
excitement
our
stairway before
undertaking.
much
the thickness
of
the
lightentering,and
our
felt rather than
before
we
the little railed
spread
It
out
but
before
lay beneath
What
startled
us
us
our
the
us
wall, prevents
at
the
worth
the number
top
of
a
vast
was
be miles
out
way
the
looking like
was
to
panorama
was
up
way
gasping
inclosure
fair sized
they dwindle
It seemed
seen.
found
Monument,
ticeable,
barely no-
they begin by being
windows, but the angle at which
off, and
paid
we
"
Outside, the slits in the pillarare
inside
pectedly
unex-
of the great fire
destroyed London
three pence
our
pleasure
came
high
raised in commemoration
which
Poor
hurriedly.
much
too
same
"
comment
time, but when
a
upon
"
left the
We
not
brief
the
with
39
it, in the
concluded
axe,
monotone,
NOTHING
TO
into
of the
London
struggle.
model.
of churches
How
40
the
and
show
of
oddness
level
street
From
notice.
spires seem
place to whiteness
London
that
of outline
Down
gives so
the
to
the
the
the
small
that
wander
to
and
us
to
the
we
where
more
the
vagueness
the
miles
and
busy
high, curious
Even
the
golden ball
streets
hastened
we
would
tant,
dis-
Abbey; looking
far off,while
and
costermonger
back
side
wrong
Bridge.
St. Paul's, with
foreground
of
objects.
commonest
direction
Tower
seemed
a
the
haze
bluish
charming
Westminster
saw
in the other
of
giving
soot
ribbon-like,twisting river, apparentl
on
we
their
towards
they taper
so
direction,
and
all, hangs the
Over
top.
row
nar-
Monument
rise in every
as
the
buildings, and
smoke
grime of the city's
the
On
down
away
the
to
They
usurped what
districts.
behind
and
has
hidden
they are
lanes
escape
their locations.
residential
once
EUROPE
business
clearlyhow
were
tall
VISIT
TO
down
quarters, until
it,
above
in the
them
to
of
dome
looked
among
form
so
near
tractive
at-
again,
the
Jewish
hunger sent
civilised parts, and
we
sought
How
42
There
well
the
as
which
yet
were
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
galleriesto
more
as
see,
tickets
privatecollections,
view
to
always be obtained through
passing, so
embassy, but the days were
from
turned
from
them
Scottish
Covent
and
Chiefs)
that
colored
in
the
learnt
that
and
interestingplaces,a
at
it
us,
and
to
the unostentatious
many
pictorial
graphers,
despair of photo-
early in
when
was,
globe
vegetables,piled
though the delightof
thing we
where
the
field for
a
is the
scene
of
visit
to
loads, and
and
such
ing
morn-
markets
wagon
fruits,flowers
adventure.
sunrise
quarter
drays and
profusion,offer
One
of
lingsgat
Bil-
to
early one
us
world's
every
effect that the
for
after
soon
of
produce from
arrives
beheaded,
was
claimed
rose
busiest
went
the great patriotSir
search
our
Garden
we
and
we
(beloved of all readers
Wallace
in
in
the markets
to
Smithfield,where
William
the
the
can
in
artists.
nations,
peregri-
our
going
over
policeman looked
was
advisable
join, in
group
a
behind
nod
to
casual
quiringly
en-
telligen
in-
manner,
him.
This
ON
is
the
usually
accidentally
"
On
drop
of
twopence
outstretched
the
two
to
43
the
showing
visitors
which
to
spot
Expense
(Note.
end
prelude
admitted."
to
NOTHING
TO
invariable
sacred
some
the
NEXT
it
emerging
into
are
is
of
not
tomary
cus-
cicerone's
the
palm.
account
weeks
will
spent
be
in
given
London.)
at
V
CHAPTER
ARRANGEMENTS
LETTERS,
FOR
TRANSPORTATION,
ST.
CATHEDRAL,
AND
HOUSES,
AND
TEA
CAFES,
MODERATE
have
we
had
When
ADVANTAGE"
heard
directed
learnt
sallied
that
there
than
out
use
cast
reach, write
44
Cross
map.
Post
day
To-
for
mail
and
iron
rule
bidding
for-
convenience
Supposing
to
we
the paste-
to
the
call
month!
ing
know-
uncertain,
on
the
PENSES.
EX-
England.
over,
Charing
a
CAN
which
business
letters
to
was
to
one
of
the
forth
anyone
longer
send
A
first of the
in
be
central
it looked
we
being
of
section
restante
WAY,
OF
the
doing
would
to
MAKE
LONG
A
coming
upon
everyone
FRENCH
TO
customary
address
our
"
GO
TAURANTS,
RES-
THE
MEMORANDUM
of
were
decided
we
Office
MONEY
methods
OF
WISHING
only just discovered
antedeluvian
INGS
BUILD-
LITTLE-KNOWN
AND
OF
TO
ACCOUNT
THOSE
AMOUNT
PATRONISE
WE
SHOPS
OF
ABBEY,
NOTEWORTHY
PALACES,
GENERAL
A
WHICH
ETC.,
WESTMINSTER
PAUL'S,
PARKS,
METHODS
WHITEHALL,
ask
that
for
you,
any
ON
NEXT
epistlesawaiting
you
communication
That
NOTHING
TO
45
forwarded.
may
be
dates
the
ment
commence-
of your
though no letters may
privilege
for a fortnight afterwards.
you
for
come
The
only thing to
the authorities
do is to outwit
utilise successive
by arrangingto
offices.
plan is to address to the American
frequent
Express Company, but this means
to the Haymarket.
expeditions
This little discoverywas
made
day
Saturon
a
morning when we had been exploringthe
of Parliament, peoplingthe House
Houses
Another
of Commons
day
covered
and
as
famous
looked
we
at
of the present
men
the
benches, and revellingin the stillness
ventured
to
the almost
then
leather
vacant
magnificenceof the House
we
on
with
seat
sacred
ourselves
"
of Lords,
for
woolsack."
a
as
moment
We
had
slipped into that magnificent Gothic
the
structure
of the organ
Abbey,
as
the last
rollingnotes
dying away, and joinedthe
little processionof sightseers,(mainly consisting
of
were
Americans) who
convenience
of
a
guide.
were
awaiting the
How
46
her
upon
the
the
have
who
have
of
realization
here.
us
of
our
sense
The
desecration.
should
sixpenny peepshow !
from
have
and
Comrade
and
limbs
and
chapels,the
as
not
sensation
the
dead, and
upon
a
need
Again, the effigies
wrenched
have
cases
some
off the small
sculptured
souvenirs!
stillness of the
the tombs
"
long drawn
feet, are
our
of those known
to
graved
en-
from
us
stepped carefullytowards
We
that of Charles
A
into
be turned
I like better than
names
childhood.
those
"
aisles,"wherein, beneath
the
of
is forced
biers, and, in
the
actuallycarried
heads
rest.
one
impressesone
of England's
tombs
restoring badly, tourists
crests
to
exploration,
war,
youth
own
Another
illustrious dead
in
past
religion,fill the aisles.
and
science,art
laid
commemorative
fame
won
burial
centuries
here
been
stow
be-
can
is
men
for
and
tablets
and
England
greatest
Abbey,
noblest
Busts
EUROPE
highest honour
The
in
VISIT
TO
Dickens, for there is
in
upon
walking
the
stone
over
an
canny
un-
the dust
above
the
nove-
of
ON
list
NEXT
travellingAmerican
some
bunch
of flowers and
left
We
changing
hoping
of
the
window
"
trobus
which
Fleet
of
means
to
go
St.
to
St, however,
desire
to
Temple
go
it
arch
was
of
Templars
Castle
of
St.
locomotion,
over
On
and
we
back
de
down
of
visit.
to
a
the
The
the time
the
Knights
it
(for was
Scott
by Aymer
in
were
part
permissible to
Sir Walter
elec-
fired with
whatever
us
"
an
the way
became
we
First
that best of
caught
Coeur-de-Lion,
owned
once
of
Valence, hero
Dangerous?) before the Knights
John claimed it and leased it out to
students, a practicewhich
has
continued
to
day.
To
not
the
see
the
Paul's, for
it carried
Richard
stone
1
stripes
to
Charles
for churches.
the mood
this
a
Whitehall, but
at
execution,we
to
all London's
not
laid
and
in time
guard
through
passed
of
be
to
had
tinystars
a
47
it,so, after snatching a glance at the
missed
very
NOTHING
TO
those
accustomed
stairway,and
seem
to
modern
flats the
rear-like entrance,
imposing,but
the chambers
are
may
the
How
48
VISIT
TO
sought after
most
London,
in
those barristers
classes,and
become
EUROPE
of
tenants
certain
by
fourth
the third and
even
who
writers
and
themselves
generation of sub-lessees,count
fortunate.
worth
visit,while the halls
a
sightsof
in old
crested
the students.
At
hall is the very
one
Night
audience.
Elizabeth
which
made
was
Drake
herself
led the
In
as
of
love
thoughts
roar
which
with
a
at
sat
and
London
great dome
of the
ship
world, and
Elizabeth
joyed
en-
daughter.
aside
entered
the
St. Paul's.
Even
one
our
quil
tran-
the
dim
sounded
into which
his
table
laid
we
to
dining
oak
the
father's
her
contrast
of
of
for
Queen
the
applause, for
of
dows,
win-
Shakespeare
the wood
of Elizabeth
grandeur
the
end of the great
from
should
the
readers
been
sailed round
in which
life
have
stage upon
Twelfth
panelled
are
the coats-of-arms
with
who
men
walls
well
of the
one
are
panels, like
these
oak, and
famous
acted
The
London.
are
the
and
Temple church is Norman,
The
cessan
inneath
be-
gazes
How
50
clergy
VISIT
TO
other
and
famous
thoughtfullydown
weird
wherein
of
the
of the
out
of those
of
captured from
in the shadows
Here,
funeral
It
Wellington.
cannon
went
out,
passing with-
the colossal
stands
Duke
and
men,
the silent crypt, made
to
the shadows
by
EUROPE
beyond
the
car
made
was
the French.
sarcophagus
containing the body of Nelson, flanked
the
of
graves
found
wallis,we
long
dead
by the
ages.
the
to
Their
for
tombs, past
with
Wren,
"
niche
card
that
Painter's
stone
to
of
conquered
are
But
Sir
unknown
are
some
one
Christopher
wards
toinscription,
Corner,"
of
men
stepped softlyover
we
as
( !) laid there by
we
found, in
statue,
a
a
visiting
from
the
equanimitywe
set
vandal
some
States.
When
out
names
very
its memorable
in the
Western
been
generation!
present
remembered,
the
have
Cornof
forgotten statues
who
"
and
Collingwood
by
recovered
we
climb
the
to
but
gallery,
generous.
A
our
gilded ball above
found
that Britannia
sixpennyworth
the
den
gol-
was
too
of stairs taxed
ON
NEXT
the
capacityto
our
peeping
in
the
at
such-like,"we
time
like
cathedral.
No
one
"
to
the
Then
was
"
The
obeyed.
in
again
loud
a
"
and
the first
in the
violently.
emphatic order
an
given
was
and
aisles below
colour
started
we
,yet such
near
sit down
sounded
glory of
todian
cus-
Whispering
people in the
Lilliputians.For
realised
we
the
at
the
saw
after
So,
uttermost.
stopped
Gallery and
looking
51
library,used, as the
by gentlemen, authors
"
told us,
NOTHING
TO
that
tively
instinc-
we
mysterious
dry facts
voice
delivered
were
whisper
"
St.-Paurs-was-begun-in-i875-nine-y
after-the-Great-Fire-of-London
It-took
35-
cost-one-and-a-half-million
years-to-build-and
-pounds-sterlingThere-are-62y-steps-to-th
top-and-the-diameter-of-the-galleries-is
feet-the-total-height-of-St-Paurs-Cathed
3
Wren65-feet-the-designer-Sir-Christopher
The
is-buried-in-the-crypt."
sepulchralvoice
ceased
ness
and,
but
so
we
across
no
ghost
glanced
the
would
about
circular
retail such
for
the
dry-
speaker,
"Whispering
Gal-
How
52
"
lery
saw
a
post.
us
with
VISIT
TO
toothless old
a
It
such weird
to!
want
in
watching
"
in
when
we
mites
at
the
"
notables
to
sat
on
have
one
afternoon
beneath
when
intended
than
British
really to
them
at
drink
study, has
That
The
tea
house
tea-
ping
shop-
touched
where
Museum,
unknown
Albert
umbrellas, of the
Gardens.
the
parks.
the
to
hardly been
entered.
is almost
went
we
Kensington
districts have
The
in the
and
by.
at
away
only just glanced
the great paper
in
more
Palace
drive
to
concerts
Kensington
we
vanished
chairs in the
penny
melted
militarypromenade
Memorial
ade
Par-
the
see
we
evenings
for
we
spent
was
Another
Park, waiting for the Queen
As
what
quaintlycostumed
noon
Foundling Hospital. An after-
fled while
Warm
have
Sunday
on
Park.
Hyde
went
of
Sunday morning
the
reached
flying. We
are
one-tenth
not
One
that had
effect !
days
much, but
whispering to
man
his voice
was
Surely London
seen
EUROPE
we
on.
up-
had
scarcelybeen
in South
ton
Kensing-
territoryas
is also
NEXT
ON
Cathedral.
Westminster
with
Leighton's House
And
what
leave
London
seen.
could
the littlehouse
the
homes
wherein
in Chelsea
Then
of Edmund
dwelt
once
the
memorial
be searched
list in "What's
the
be
simply must
self-respecting
person
without
having visited
Carlyle?
buildingsmust
to
Frederick
studio
interesting
Hall
sage,
tableted
53
Sir
its
Moorish
wonderful
and
NOTHING
TO
cordin
(ac-
out
the
On"),
win,
Kean, Byron, Keats, Dar-
Dickens, and
others.
hundred
a
And
Charterhouse, Thackeray's oldschool, ought
be
to
visited,
perhaps the day
tholemew's, the
The
King's
Palace, are
At
have
as
least
those
Slater's
to
we
know
B. C.'s and
supply
most
noted
seem
odd
be
yet
visited
church
oldest
stables
we
at
too,
in
London.
Buckingham
seen.
the
for
ones
as
prices.
moderate
and
for
restaurants
of the famous
good
seek St.Bar-
cheap, while
we
well
All
the A.
Express Dairy Companies' shops
meals.
is the
Piccadilly
place in London
The
nicest and
for
Kardomah
most
afternoon
of
reasonable
tea.
The
How
54
James Fleming
marvels
are
Wardour
St.
be
can
while
is that
"
cheapness.
an
eight course
at
for
they are
possibleto
knows
far
So
I had
ropes."
our
expenses
shillings,
cludes
near-by in-
day
a
"
at
Fourteen
Lunches
unless
been
as
one
small
as
eight
OF
WEEKS
IN
$
4.00
EXPENSE.
LONDON.
eight shillingsper week
breakfasts
at
eight pence
at
Dinners
average
an
(six
at
Entrance
at
one
of
one
2.24
shilling
shilling and
six
3.50
pence
and
6.26
shillings,respectively
fees, Royal Academy,
night, National
two
Day)
Gallery, (Student's
Abbey
Foundling
six
Hospital
pence,
one
three
Monument,
Tower
one
shilling,
shilling,St. Paul's
one
shilling
Park
when
hoped.
TWO
pence,
dinner
foreign places
in London
have
in
price.
Sundays
starve
the
"
Roche
in these
MEMORANDUM
Room
"
Pinoli's
of
couple
a
on
open
At
Street
French
yet smaller
a
advantage
great
in Oxford
of
the quaint little
A
EUROPE
restaurants
obtained
wine
it is
VISIT
TO
chairs, omnibuses, boats, tips and
i
incidentals
.80
5.74
$23.54
VI
CHAPTER
THE
ENVIRONS
WINDSOR
TO
WAYS
the
to
we
of
language
can
spare
the
grand
no
in
to
will be
seeing
days
as
hitherto
exploration
learn
would
really
Tussauds,
be
must
for
such
devoted
to
Palace
of
Canterbury),
particular
musical
or
(the
attractions
abode
the
in
royal spectacular
55
as
Madame
Heath,
Lambeth
Archbishop
such
places
neglected
to
London
Henceforward
Hampstead
Greenwich,
any
for
we
hesitate
It is well, for
headquarters only, except
our
of
scraps
if
don
Lon-
of
uncertainty
employ.
city
"
longer
no
time
AND
EXPENSES.
momentary
more
old
COSTS
foreign-ness
We
its environs.
know
and
u
CURSION
EX-
AN
AND
WITH
OF
away.
question
a
ETON,
AND
the
wearing
ask
to
GREENWICH
MEMORANDUM
"
of
sense
is
as
GOING
OF
OUR
FOREST,
EPPING
RICHMOND,
KEW,
COURT,
HAMPTON
LONDON,
OF
of
the
Guildhall,
the
lines.
rical,
theatFor
How
56
the
rest
VISIT
TO
shall
we
be
EUROPE
of
out
nearby places, Richmond,
Court,
Water, Eton
Hampton
day
the
Court
I hate
morning caught
undertake
to
The
rest
of
we
our
many
a
placeknown
Twickenham
seemed
Ferry,
the
popular song.
"
how
place
to
us
the
too,
by
that
tance.
dis-
just the
days
of
life vouchsafed
we
passed
including
name,
reaching of which
signal for an
Kingston was
once
glorious
boats
was
houseboat
impossibleit is to
was
a
But
aside
set
strenuous
Then,
route.
en
to
delightedwith the
were
fascinating
glimpses of
us
tube
the whole
passengers
after
and
sightseeing,
to
few
the
the
tram.
we
leisurelyjourney
needed
we
electric
,and, on
way
by
is
by
hurry, so
one
carry
by
same
like,and
you
Victoria, or
thence
tending that
advice
the
on
of transport
Metropolitan from
and
seen
Kew, if
speediestmethod
Comrade
ginia
Beeches, Vir-
be
can
and
Shepherds'Bush,
Hampton
Epping Forest.
and
Richmond
as
Kew,
Burnham
Windsor,
visiting
town
outburst
not
of
the
far distant
realise that the little
England's capitaland
the
How
58
gentle deer
while
we
weeks
as
cedars
laid
lo !
for
the
day was
help being sorry
not
looked
we
bathed
palace
running to us,
the forthcoming
came
the
"
Wolsey when
EUROPE
beneath
rested
we
could
We
they
plans
as
and
"
VISIT
TO
in
had
built
it for
VIII.
"
Mary,
the
first and
Good
.
.
justreturned
been
one
of
me
write
my
impressionsare
the
most
in
or
about
our
it while
doubt
Europe.
their
Do
deserted
halls,
.
from
best
the
undimmed
Windsor
interestingof
both
general public is
the
have
Without
time
one
Anne," and
the gorgeous,
shut out, I wonder?
it has
at
Many
.
.
Georges.
when
nightfall,
We
it
Queen
second
ghostsgather in
after
.
inhabited
must
Charles', Elizabeth, William
the
and
It
pretend that he
to
Henry
the
saw
colours.
sunset
tryingto have
"
for Cardinal
and
been
another
gone.
back
have
sovereigns have
magnificent
and
Windsor
days.
joy
.
.
is fresh
by
and
others.
Castle
all the
Let
.
is
one
of
ences
royal resid-
Imagination often
rears
ON
NEXT
59
splendidpalaces that realitymust
such
expectations.It
of
short
Windsor.
We
excursion
fare
"
NOTHING
TO
What's
of
view
days
castle
Steps,which
an
(in
the
Our
view.
from
on
up
which
on
on
was
with
so
looking
palacewere
the
not
Waterloo
after
"
the
On")
parts of the
from
went
is
fall
the
most
first
Hundred
built,it is said, by Henry
were
VIII., in order that when
royaltylay heavily
he
unnoticed,
on
him,
mix
with
the
might
the bar
yokels at
inn,or fightwith
of the
chief homes
of the
of the
to
village
pugnaciousbutcher.
some
Castle,which
Windsor
days
escape
has been
one
kings of England
of the
since the
Conqueror, stands, a stately
pile,
tinyvillage. The dim blue English
atmosphere forms a splendidbackground for
above
its
a
views
"
be
can
The
the
and
turrets
one
gained from
"
state
apartments
of their
noble
kings.
The
the
with
first
damask
fairest
attention;
their gorgeous
proportions, are
They
name.
of
the river.
castle itself deserves
ceilingsand
of
towers;
worthy
the apartments
fitly
are
on
the walls has been
60
How
VISIT
TO
EUROPE
for royal use,
especially
woven
famous
"
motto,
emblazoned
Honi
soit
qui mal
y
it.
This
is also
seen
upon
oak
the brown
among
leaves
wrested
from
England's foes.
In
bird
of
stands
India, it was
taken
from
holds
whosoever
trophy
shall
India.
And
there
costlygiftsfrom
throne
room
will tell you
that
possessionof the bejewelled
wield
of the world.
after
Sahib
Tipoo
dominant
are
The
after
cases
Among
war.
almost
all the
throne
silver-gilt
is another
over
power
cases
equallyvaluable spoilsof
are
and
sacred
a
the Hindi
mutiny, and
again
of
there
the
pense"
much
glass case
a
the
the carpets.
on
Costly bric-a-brac decks the halls
it has been
has
and
symbol
of
The
of
them
peoples
in the
victory.
against
Kings of Kandy formerly rested
its high back, and on the dragons with their
gleaming amythest
eyes.
visible
Another
sign of England's triumphs is the colossal
moated
bell that hancfsin the famous
tower;
it was
wrested
tapol.
St. George's
from
Hall
the Russians
is almost
at
Sebas-
the finest of
ON
NEXT
the spacious apartments
It is
feet
200
61
NOTHING
TO
be
to
long and
breadth
identical,34
practically
height are
the Third
feet. Edward
sor.
Wind-
at
seen
built it to
and
and
serve
32
a
as
ter,
banqueting hall for the Knights of the Garused
it is now
and
with the shields and
ceilingis decorated
of
all the
Knights of the Garter
foundation
the
occasion. The
state
on
of
the
The
order.
since the
the
used, with great effect,
in the castle.
everywhere
Some
singed that they have had
to
on
at
foundation
a
all.
black
A
the
Dervishers
new
ones
and
hang above
and
Wellington.
next
descendants
once
a
runs
the
year;
by
;
Lord
catch the eye,
of
if
the busts
It is
these
they
keep
it was
not
worn
carefully
them
gether
to-
out,
oddly
taken
from
Kitchener.
Two
they are
French,
of
Marlborough
obligatoryupon
dukes
are
so
be
flaghangs
the colours
distinct among
are
to
to
ancient
are
flagswith gallanthistories,and
stitched
of
banners
original twenty-fivehang beneath
shields,for flagsare
and
arms
to
so
renew
the
them
replaced (so
decree), the titles shall lapse. Cer-
62
How
curious
tainlya
of the
two
St.
tenure
EUROPE
which
upon
in
proudest names
George's Chapel, where
take
banner
above
with
each
carved
riages
royalmar-
with
flags. A
knight's arms,
stall.
of colour
avenue
gorgeous
a
hold
to
England.
the
place,is also hung
emblazoned
hangs
a
VISIT
TO
form
They
leadingtowards
the altar.
If
Round
Tower
1660!
from
moated
homes
viewed
beneath
beneath
of
the
to
(used
twelve
")
and
seen,
the
climb
you
battlements
as
the broad
England
are
upon
request.
by
millionaire
east
the
are
stately
be
can
habite
to-day in-
Americans!
the castle,
herds of deer
be
across
visible;several
Many
until
can
terrace,
of
some
the
"
prison
a
surrounding counties
gardens,
the
of
Down
gathered
are
magnificent,centuries
old
oaks
which
in grand cathedral-like
stretch away
aisles to the equestrianstatue
of George the
Third,
three
some
miles
distant
down
the
Long Walk.
One
of
is
forciblyreminded
England
in historic and
of the
richness
memories
literary
ON
when
the
the
standing on
those
to
Eton
Windsor
within
some
terraces,
beneath
or
Castle.
buildings?"
grey
63
NOTHING
TO
hoary arches,of
are
"
NEXT
ask, pointing
you
distance.
walking
easy
the answer,
College,"comes
"What
and
you
there before
you
registera
mental
return
to
the
if the
distant,white-spired,
church, is
in
Stoke
particular. And
is immortalised
"
the
Good
that
in
the
Grey's
so
asking
thing
any-
learn that it is
little churchyard
"
Elegy."
wherein
is also
Frog-
lies
the
within
sight,as is
John signed the Magna
Runnymede, where
and
else is
one
you
mausoleum
Queen,"
Charta
go
Some
city.
Pogis, and
more,
to
vow
their
Englishmen
gave
long
fought for liberty.
Tingling with
stress
and
of
life,and
made
the
through
the
knights,not
have
the
years
the
blessed
set
cloisters
here
lived
passed
we
old
wherein
this world's
aside for them
in peace.
have
better,
with
roof, and
the stir and
who
men
world
quiet
quarters
king's own
thought of
goods,
beneath
spend
their
the
clinin
de-
other
One
not
is
TO
VISIT
day
in this
How
64
be denied
one
admission
glorious week
to
will
diary and
my
that
spent picknicingin Epping Forest.
we
It is incredible that
within
twelve
world
has
can
EUROPE
exist
can
hughest city the
known, but it does, and
for hours
meeting
forest
a
of the
miles
ever
walk
such
in the green
out
glades with-
if you
soul, even
a
you
on
go
Bank
sands
thouHoliday, when, according to statistics,
will have
At
all
taken
train
the
forest
seasons
loveliness.
In the
hawthorn
makes
fairyland.
beeches
is thick
gold
leaves.
able.
branches
buildings,while
for you
at
especial
with
of
the rich bracken
winter, the solitude
snow,
twigged
eyes,
trees, is unforget-
the
summer
weary
other songsters
create
Herons
and
less,
the leaf-
and
of
an
and
ing
spread-
streets
the larks, thrushes,
all times.
white
ground beneath the
glorious, copper-coloured
height of
rest
its
the
the untouched
In the
and
and
In
frosted,many
place.
valleys visions
In the Autumn
to
purity of
has
same
spring the pink and
certain
is tinted
the
to
and
gales
nightin-
orchestra
kingfishers
66
How
TO
VISIT
MEMORANDUM
Rent
of
room
per
EUROPE
OF
week,
at
eight
EXPENSE.
shillings
$
2.00
Breakfasts
1.16
Luncheons
1.80
Dinners
"
3.00
"
Fares
Extras
2.15
and
incidentals
85
.
.
$10.96
CHAPTER
STRATFORD-ON-AVON
DEITIES
DUAL
right
is from
to
way
road
in this
"
could
be
on
the
too
the
is
feel
for
much
of
a
that
a
Stratford
for
centre
only thirteen
payment
did
not
"
do
six-and-
a
Euston.
and
days
Satur-
the
trains
is
given for
important sights,though
most
interestingpoints
worth
and
season,
miles
39
from
ticket
Wednesdays
It is the
most
We
took, instead,
on
doubtless
will
quickly be
Blenheim
or
arranged that ample time
be
STOCK
WOOD-
inclined
athletically
are
you
excursion
be had
seeing all the
not
can
Woodstock
throughout
you
it
cycle,being only
a
thing but
can
so
THE
"
Stratford-on-Avon
to
go
whence
event
sixpenny day
are
THERE
KENILWORTH,
explored midway.
this wise
These
GET
TO
SEEING
ON
by rail, or, if
by
off
HINTS
"
Oxford
reached
How
AND
BLENHEIM.
OR
THE
VII
in
and
some
England.
miles
sixpence
67
week
distant
you
may
would
its
roundings.
sur-
of the
Keniland
for
ramble
68
How
where
ghosts of
the
stand
or
will,re-peoplingit,in imagination,
you
with
unhappy
his
crown.
cathedral
such
is half
the
distance
fee.
The
famous
"
"
25
"
miles.
in
seen
be
day, and
a
a
England is
littleisland!
for Stratford-on-Avon
As
abdicated
porcelainworks of Worcester
might, in the States,be called
compact
a
spot where
Second
the
entrance
length off
street
Leicester,
and
what
to
Edward
the
and
in the very
Warwick
twice
are
Elizabeth
dream
and
the
with
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
a
it can
itself,
be
leisurelyday
sufficiently
lage
enjoyable. Imagine a quiet little vilwith wide streets, a winding river and
picturesqueold houses, and
except
"
for
you
have
Shakespeare and
ford
Strat-
Marie
Corelli.
fact that the
The
the other
the
here,
was
attracts
born
here, and
thousands, and
requirements of these tourists have called
various
"
lives
one
"
flys
rests,
numerous
businesses
stand
into
outside
tea-shops,and
places where
existence.
the
cafes
Rows
of
stations,cyclists'
abound,
portraitsof
as
do
Shake-
ON
NEXT
Marie
and
speare
NOTHING
TO
Corelli,views
and
houses,
souvenir
of both,
to
rarelyfails also
"
of
Mason
of
"
indicate the
best
memorative
com-
spoons
rustic who
Croft," where
the
spective
re-
teers
volun-
Shakespearian spot
any
to
of their
displayedin equally
are
prominent positions. The
directions
69
location
exact
dwells the authoress
of
sellingnovel
modern
times."
First in
of
born
was
in the
There
rooms.
a
now,
fascination
in the
From
had
and
in which
roofed
about
or
escritoire,and
an
the old
where
museum
place and
one
are
more
a
is
than
relics.
charming glimpse can
a
fancy has planted almost
plants mentioned
splendid field
Shakespeare's house
a
all the herbs
in the immortal
a
be
with
someone
a
fers
pre-
rather
rooms
there
garden where
offers
there
But
two.
lingerin the bare
Stratford
camera.
table,
the window
pretty
home
quaintestof low
chair
into the
place comes,
is little enough in the house
bust, a
contemporary
to
show
a
Shakespeare'sown
course,
he
importance as
plays.
for
the
itself could
How
70
hardly fail to
front
of
VISIT
TO
that
of
John Harvard,
quaint,low-roofed
have
for
from
the
"Good
was
When
we
theatre
a
for Jesus sake
splendid
encloased
there
yt
y*
chained
we
tones,
had
came
we
read
but
of
the
Bible!
charming
feature
Hathaway's cottage and
of reaching it is to stroll
the lanes and
was
of
Swan
heare,
that
Ann
The
forbeare,
too
most
in
"
in this church
a
must
curiouslypathetic
bones."
Shotteryby
for
"
my
be he
place is
this and
the
moves
man
pleasantestway
way
of
these
ye
"
the
But
the
dust
grave
curiosityof which
seen
whole
as
friend
curst
a
never
is buried, is also
spares
be
And
upon
us
Digg the
Bleast
It
the
struck
To
in which
picturesque point of view.
epitaph above
Avon"
as
the
Trinity Church
travelling actors.
the dramatist
to
it served
"
which
nor
eager-eyed boy,
an
his firstplay
seen
schools
grammar
Shakespeare, as
the carved
well, nor
out
come
EUROPE
no
fields.
We
did
danger of losing our
sign posts and directions abound.
it the old
came
suddenly upon
ON
NEXT
It is
ideal
in that
set
background
new
Picture
an
intrude.
eav-hung, thick-thatched
cottage
been
and
doors
unexpected corners,
and
place. Nothing
he
has
swiftlyby
have
trod,
to
ambitions, dream
in the air with
The
the very
talk
they
their work
his
over
and
have
obtained
goods, but
when
to
selves
our-
hopes and
castles
help him.
trustees
possible
unprocurable,
were
have
been
put
place,with the result that here there is
of
the
stiff
have
identical household
such
utensils
contemporary
when
we
build
Whenever
the
You
seen,
paths
Hathaway
well.
and
for you.
illusion is complete,for the
done
Enter
have
must
dreams
Ann
the famous
have
you
changed.
Shakespeare
came
angles and in
odd
at
centuries back
turns
what
see
old-
an
permitted to
has
with windows
the clock
us.
garden, wherein
fashioned, sweet-scented
nothing
71
of the littleplace enchanted
charm
world
NOTHING
TO
formalitynoticeable
into
none
in Shakespeare's
house.
A
touch
by the
of unconscious
extremely
blase
humor, is supplied
young
guide who
How
72
escorts
with
about
guests
lynx-eyesto
names
and
Comrade
several
me
house
the
that
see
the
upon
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
and
they
do
She
that
followed
so
tourists
together like sheep, then
an
monotone
even
"That
settee
upon
which
Shakespeare and
William
he
when
is the
platteron
eaten
at
that
begins
You
period.
First
This
will observe
they
side
one
away
Hath-
Ann
(itis said) food
which
vegetables from
lieved)
(it is be-
courtinghere.
came
it is reversible.
"
ate
they turned
it
"
will
followed
did, and
tone
even
"
a
That
"Is
now
descend."
supply entered.
started
an
partook of pudding.
expressionlessvoice
Visitors will
is the
she
the
fresh
then
proceed upstairs." They
now
and
'
and
that
will observe
you
(said to be) used for salt
over
was
and
meat
the hollow
Visitors
in
"
is the
sat
in
round
the various
First she herds
groups.
write
not
fascinated
walls.
we
watches
settee
on
the
same
The
tinued.
con-
They
same
sentence!
upon."
automaton?"
gasped
rade.
Com-
CHAPTER
GLORY
THE
IT
INCARNATE"
day
went
and
that
from
ought
to
be.
which
mellowed
glass,
age
The
by time.
it is in the
glories.
byways
in the
Stay
are
amid
the
spires and
can
be
shops and
had
find
grey
from
historic
curious
the
main
which
streets,
colleges down
74
the
it
est
great-
and
Search
modernism.
of
of
part
roads
wider
walls
ceilings,
find the
you
ivy
"
carving;
delicate
and
her,
to
exactly what
with
hoary
"
spires
calls
is
we
of nothing
think
can
Oxford
Walls
arches, stained
will
before
city of colleges,domes,
afar.
"
describe
to
walls, chapels glorious with
covered
is that
time
I
now
THEM
EXPENSES.
OF
spacious quadrangles
students
it
for
WATERS
FOUND
Stratford-on-Avon
at
except
WE
I found
that
Oxford,
to
BACK
MEMORANDUM
is fortunate
our
How
AND
CHURCHES,
AND
WINDING
AND
LODGINGS
HISTORY
COLLEGES
ITS
QUADRANGLES
STUDENT
"
OXFORD;
OF
SPACIOUS
VIII
you
out
glimpses
and
narrow
you
ON
lanes
NEXT
Oxford
that gave
Comrade
(when
I
arrived
into
confidence
dinner.
down
which,
Church
"
able
"
to
words
name
"
God
on
One
had
door.
the
a
King
This
had
just taken
his
this
portion of
his life
crests
to
enjoyed his
Save
our
a
be
degree
"
was
popularly known
St.
Pembroke
to
from
throw
pleasure that
our
for
need
prosaic to
way
in which
"
we
from
waitress
Broadgates Hall
diggings.
and
the
our
Christ
"
a
cense
li-
delightwe
in real student
establish ourselves
to
month
destination
our
too
was
a
train
took
stone's
a
lodging
were
We
our
found
we
at
ticket
according to her directions
and
found
locality
to
stay
regarding our
lodging (an hotel
as
to
afternoon
descended
for
thought of)
week-end
a
wished
an
in time
our
took
we
least) caught
Paddington and
centuries
bygone
birth.
and
we
75
only pedestrians can
All is eloquentof the
pass.
at
which
through
NOTHING
TO
departed
considerately
luxuries.
card
ded
It ad-
bearing the
"
above
was
that
signified
his
he
in fact that
and
The
over.
"
as
lege
col-
freshers
How
76
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
delights" ornamenting the
seemed
almost
only a
was
impatientwere
Oxford.
the scene,
to
looked
the
dim
about
lanes, as
aided
we
by
thrill of
it,as
o'clock
college after college,
With
past
as
of the most
one
in the
and
Big
lightfu
de-
quadrangle of
ious
spac-
tinct
deep disstrikingthe nine
to
the
signalthat the gates
were
vivid.
night,walked
Queen's
present.
claims
Tom
main
re-
The
magnificentand
most
John Wycliffeand the
Oriel
book, will always
stood
in
that
us,
narrow
nightsin England.
our
of
the
down
Oxford, and listened
is yet
shutting,
walls
located
we
curfew
gave
and
Christ church,the
strokes
night
Oxford
memory
of all
starlit
perhaps the hoary
little guide
a
in my
in
the
exploringhistoric
vaguely mysterious in the
but that first night
moon,
more
light of the
ramble
trunk
new
of minutes,
matter
be
to
we
Perhaps
glamor
a
ters
quar-
necessity.
a
Unpacking
so
fancy that
captivatedour
so
student's
Sir
Black
Thomas
heroes
of the
College
Prince
More,
her
calls
sons.
Matthew
NEXT
ON
Magdalen,
there
which
at
77
Addison
Cecil Rhodes.
and
Arnold
NOTHING
TO
finer cloisters
no
are
at
was
versity
England, Shelleybelonged to Unifounded
Corpus
by King Alfred
in all
"
"
time, while Christ
Christi
held
Keble
for
Church
gave
Great
Britain three
succession
Gladstone, Lord
"
Roseberry; the
Lord
of
members
the
Milner
and
and
at
was
roll of
college.
Pembroke
same
stillmore
Exeter.
Great
of
too,
age
of
names
men.
Newman
Trinity.
names
to
famous
Cardinal
the lawns
were
dating back
Balliol
recent
Curzon.
walked
once
too,
is associated with the
with Merton,
Browning
Salisburyand
disputingprecedence as
and
1282
premiers in
Wesleys
Johnson, while
claims Dr.
to
a
are
Jesus (the firstcollegefounded
Froude
the
on
since
the
mostly
Reformation), but they are
Welsh.
Many of these collegesare especially
for certain nationalities,
though they
are,
of course,
have
Some
which
have
on
open
to
the world.
the
quaint customs,
been
New
lost in
Year's
originof
antiquity.For
Day
at
stance
in-
Queen's the
78
How
bursar
'
and
Take
at
five o'clock
Magdalen
morning, you
surplicedchoir
it is the memories
I suppose
Oxford
that
without
these
the
make
the
at
was
it
the
on
it would
be
the learned
doctors
publiclyrecant
of
his
of
was
suffered at the stake.
Beaumont
was
to
of
is
But Oxford
born.
Street
end
that
Courts
to
them.
Richard
and
a
the
memories, dating from
the loth century, that there is no
Coeur-de-Lion
There
enacted.
three who
in
Lati-
Nearby the tragic
in commemoration
rich in historic
Mary
brought
was
raised
was
St.
with
disputation
memorial
so
It
Oxford, and here too,
errors.
martyrdom
even
Ridley and
for
later,that Cranmer
year
scene
of
Yet
place apart.
a
exquisitechurch
cited to appear
were
to
past of
and
unique.
so
Virgin that Cranmer,
mer
It
to
singing a Latin hymn
Holy Trinity!
the
is
so,
knows
one
went
May
on
does
of the tower,
top
a
if you
And
find the whole
would
he
thrifty."No
be
it!
does
guest with
and
thread, saying,as
this and
he
why
EUROPE
member
presents every
needle
a
VISIT
TO
camps
NEXT
ON
the Second
that Charles
Parliament
Shorter
melted
79
in Oxford.
held their sway
have
NOTHING
TO
at
It
summoned
the time
here
was
the Third
that the University
its plateto
help advance
memories
of
down
h;s cause.
the
when
But,
chapels,of great halls, huge
wonderful
from
views
the top
of
the Sheldonian
minds,
we
Nuneham
backwaters
Radcliffe
shall
Woods
under
excursion
Entrances,
to
boat
domes,
Camera
from
are
Oxford,
return
fare
and the
breakfasts
driftingdown
OF
shady
EXPENSE.
$ 1.50
75
included
in the London
week.)
2.00
at
1.65
three
shillingssix
night
Dinners, lunches
the
long hours
Entrance, fares, tips, etc
per
our
hires, etc
expenses
and
and
Stratford-on-Avon
(Other
Rooms
seen
trees.
interlacing
MEMORANDUM
Day
and
always remember
the river
spent upon
we
and
towers
the
kitchens
Theatre, have faded
I think
gloryof
of
exquisite
pence
2.62
and
general extravagances
2.63
$11.15
CHAPTER
"ENGLISH
WATERING
RIVAL
SEA
PLACES"
CHARMS
NEWHAVEN
THE
"
FOURTH
"
CYCLING
THE
change
determined
to
revive
we
are
somewhat
by
for
all
In order
to
wrote
upon
Deal,
and
the
to
travel
"
of
names
paper
Hastings,
train
now
is
en
lish
Eng-
an
In
truth
feeling engendered
had
longed
Europe.
of
tainty
excitinguncer-
I
and
possible places
Folkestone, Margate,
"
Eastbourne
Brighton,
so,
mediate
im-
required
was
we
we
and
Comrade
then
crumpled pile,and
Our
and
various
Scarborough,
at
of
state
a
movements
slips of
week
a
touch
give a
our
of fate, are
days back
surfeit of what
lives
our
THE
That
venue.
enthusiasm.
blase,
a
GEORGE
OF
all that
was
fading
our
of
that
watering place
LONDON-BY-THE-
IN
four
or
AND
EXPENSES.
OF
three
some
BRIGHTON
WORTHING
MEMORIES
AND
a
OF
ROTTINGDEAN,
MEMORANDUM
for
CHARMS
EXCURSIONS
PAVILION
IT is time
decided
HOVE,
OF
"
IX
drew
according
route
for
to
the
the decree
Brighton.
running through
80
from
one
an
aggravat-
82
in
"
How
this
VISIT
TO
EUROPE
of
"Queen
Watering Places"
London-by-the-Sea as Brighton is
or
"
called.
Three
parts
iously
var-
it consist of
of
"private boarding establishments," hotels
and
houses
Walk
down
scores
of
Hotel
and
offering furnished
street, ride up
any
placards
rates
pound
a
jump
at
your
six
and
eyes.
shillings,
gin
Boarding-housesbe-
up.
week
a
road,
any
anything from
are
sixpencea day
at
will
apartments.
and
good
are
at
and thirtyshillings.Of
twenty-fiveshillings
the scale of
course
from
distance
It is
the
then
little way,
population is
and
Brighton
guides
Others
for
can
by
be
along
in both
seen
those
who
want
the
the
at
it
a
dom.
ran-
floating. Current
these
advance
the
giving direct addresses;
and
as
as
down
car
side streets
papers
do
befriends
a
Front, walk
too
to
are
take
the
up
It is useless
the
to
the
to
decreases
increases.
sea
good plan
a
Parade
Grand
charges
we
did
and
arrangements.
venturesome.
are
vertise
ad-
London
the best
certainty.
go
melled
untram-
Luck
The
ways
al-
Old
NEXT
ON
Parade, Montpelier Road,
Steine, Marine
and
the
benefit of
say
may
a
first
days
For
there
fees
to
there
are
and
lightningartists
high
shows.
the
do
the
of
diving,
There
in
are
musical
the
on
two
piers,
four
or
the music
near
the
fairylandfrom
diverse
as
you
shimmering
water,
the shore.
Then
shows, bicyclepolo, performing
fortune
dogs, ventriloquists,
programme
at
is
gaily lighted,festooned
The
go.
which
how
according to
like
about
amusements,
concerts
are
duplicatedin
jetties,
look
Brighton
ordinary theatrical
to
the admission
to
I
St. with
of North
in
in London.
attractions
wish
hotels
prefer
and sixpenceis
shillings
will vanish
week
addition
For
rooms.
of the scale.
end
pence
who
would-be
expensive;the Metropole
the least
A
people
that the Unicorn
tariff of six
other
seek
who
those
all
are
for
grounds
hunting
boarders
Road
Holland
and
Regency Square
happy
83
NOTHING
TO
and
a
perpetuallychanging
dangerous
events,
riding, and
water
are
tellers
concerts
such
as
kindred
again
in
84
How
the
and
on
circle of
where
here
all
down
band
the
stand,
shady paths,
from
the thick
like gorgeous
looking
trees
sembles,
as-
sit in the gay
lightsglimmer
foliage of the
Pavilion
Brighton
the decorated
and
colored
the
nights,to
lightnear
up
in
nearly
summer
wander
or
EUROPE
and
Dome
great
Grounds
VISIT
TO
glow-worms.
On
of England's best known
Sundays some
preachers are always to be heard in ton,
Brighafter church
and
"
The
on
hatted
Lawns
are
men
"
it is de
where
the
imaginable hue.
shade
complexions that
have
The
any
Front
miles.
sea,
hotels.
on
the
for
a
a
sight that
place.
a
cyclists,
pass
motors,
in
a
of
boat
I
rivals
It stretches
distance
side is the
one
of
of those
motor
the other fine residences
Landaus,
robes
the envy
are
itself offers
On
visions
daintyparasols
spent the morning in
perfectlypaved,
good
and
The
continental watering
out,
of
billowy silk
every
who
frock-coated, tall
escorts
loveliness in lace and
walk
rigeur to
and
of
five
ing
changgreat
donkey carriages
kalidescopicpicture.
NEXT
ON
flock
chairs,or
chattering children
like
in
walks, stand
luxurious bath
around
groups
gay
side
throng the
Pedestrians
85
NOTHING
TO
the
about
patientlittledonkeys waitingfor hire.
off in the
Far
of
line
be
the
called
in
camps
is
you
Downs
and
Newhaven
rather
And
of every
and
boats.
Beneath
bathing
houses
into
deep
tainly
torpedo destroyers,cer-
from
or
climb down
will get
like
the
so
these
a
some
row
are
bathe
only children
hire
"
a
machine
mending
caves,
are
of the
"
Now
pier at certain hours.
or
gay
them
draw
to
slopingpathway past
their
nets
surprise. Built in under
many
are
Adults
the steps
fishermen
horses
for here
the beach.
dive from
the
with
fishing and
the sands,
on
you,
motor
steamers,
of
scores
water,
ing
the danc-
on
description,
sibly
pos-
yachts, excursion
launches, and
behind
cliffs stretchingto
beyond.
warships
Roman
were
Turn, and
line of
boats
are
sea
(which should
by.
gone
jagged
a
waving
whereon
"tips")
days
is the
distance
the
"
Arches
and
the
"
you
front,
and
quaintestlittlehomes
in
86
How
VISIT
TO
imaginable. They
the
level with
of
beach,
the
are
inhabited
are
umbrellas
If I lived in
as
and
bric-a-brac.
Brighton I
climbed
we
off in quest
Devil's
had!
of
contrive
would
hill
Up
most
part
when
we
what
in the
his
to
shovel
to
yellow
be
seen
wheel
morning
We
a
was
reminders
"
as
series of
hearts
our
Satanic
the
tent
con-
at
the
put
never
the crowded
what
"
fishingvillage
a
distance
foot
to
streets!
spent in the
of
of
bottom?)
whole
so
Majesty,
the mark
(isnot
flightthe
reached
we
Lanes,'7 those
when
a
we
fields,and
corn
to
most
flood Sussex
Brighton.
Another
the
extraordinaryexcavation, cut,
to
pedal until
to
objective,for
scrambled
gloriousfree
back
set
gloriousride
feet,in
our
tradition,by his
in order
rade
Com-
and
us
carry
a
700
some
between
had
parade
bicyclesto
And
Dyke.
the
to
gentle gradients,to
says
by
dainty holiday
get located in the Arches," decided
to
was
some
and
upon
artists,
brightwith chintz,brass and
Japansese
"
direct
open
fisherfolk,others
nooks
EUROPE
"
Old
Brighton
it captivated
ON
the
NEXT
of
fancy
Wales, and
NOTHING
TO
IV, then
George
him
enticed
to
somewhere
cost
for
pounds
much
place.
of
pyramid
domed
shimmering
immense
six other
electric
the
owing
in which
that she
that
to
The
larger,and
a
her
dream
King William
down.
is the
pride
shimmering
hold
the hearts
so
it was
hidden
away
of Queen
dream
crush
her
affected
her
consented
is believed
laide's
Ade-
to
have
in the Dome
to
be
the
ants!
attendnerves
it taken
is
lights.
It
even
biggest in
world, being six feet in diameter
200
of
royal highness imagined
chandelier
containing over
out
dinary
extraorlights. The
joy of King George's
it fall and
saw
The
as
chandelier
dragons
from
lilies,
water
gleam
for years,
sand
thou-
glasslustres suspended from
roof by the claws of a gigantic
but after his death
heart
pagoda
cut
thing was
the
an
ion,
Pavil-
alone, and
its erection
It is
golden dragon,
which
the
hundred
a
banqueting hall
in the gorgeous
the
build
for its equipment. The
more
of the
near
of
Prince
eastern-like
that unique, ornate,
which
87
and
is curious
88
How
with
a
that
remember
to
VISIT
TO
its arcades
the
EUROPE
magnificentbuilding,
of Moorish
arches,was
once
stable.
Another
that
among
British
thence
In it we
old
Jones
for
you
breasted
we
the
taking
walking
is
a
little fishing
village.
his
over
lead
always
Museum
Rottingdean
the house
his
spent
collection of
Cliffs and
fashioned
onward
have
Booth
Black
made
once
wandered
you
the
sought out
Kipling
that
the
Rottingdean.
to
hours
beginning by
to
charming
Burne
in
afar
car
few
a
arranged
artistically
Birds
rambled
motor
after
morning,
where
home
Rudyard
with
Then
neighbour.
the
to
Sir. E.
we
deceptiveDowns
believe
the next
that
rise you
when
will
see
far
Newhaven.
to
came
beyond, until we
There, rejoicingin the changing colours of
and sky as seen
sea
against the steep white
back.
cliffs,
we
caught the
Brighton Queen
"
Such
place.
and
back
the
day
"
boating trips are
You
can
for
on
go
as
a
feature
far afield
or
eight shillings
the Isle of Wight
as
of
the
Boulogne
so,
for
or
spend
half
as
How
90
VISIT
TO
OF
MEMORANDUM
One
week's
Fare
Bathing,
from
board
London
concerts,
EUROPE
lodging
and
and
EXPENSE.
return,
amusements
$
boats,
and
cars,
personal
7.50
6.70
etc
cidentals
in-
340
$17.60
CHAPTER
BELGIUM
How
AND
AND
GHENT
AND
GROTTO
THE
BOWELS
THERE
SHARP
THE
THE
"
HAN
DE
AN
BRUGES
AND
RIVERS
AND
SUBTERRANEAN
UNEXPECTED
EARTH
THE
OF
NATION
FASCI-
ITS
OF
WOODS
THE
FAMOUS
"
OSTEND,
"
CONTRAST
DINANT,
ARDENNES
THE
GET
TO
NAMUR,
"
X
RIVER
INTO
VENTURE
MEMORANDUM
"
OF
OF
Ex-
PENSES.
FARES
pay
Ostend
to
anything
for
according
but,
route,
difference
as
between
the
the
Wharf,
We
"
might
Thursday
two
Alouette
near
months
the
return
or
rates
sixpence the
Navigation Company
on
was
"
if
we
chose
only
for
the
est
cheap-
fractional
a
first and
For
ond-class
sec-
eleven
General
Steam
to
from
Katherine's
by
St.
direct
the
and
chose
91
select.
undertook
Tower,
Saturday
tion
dura-
same
line you
the former.
tickets,took
shillings and
we
there
the
the
to
determination
to
of
can
lings
forty shil-
shillingsto
ten
first class tickets
of time,
True
from
You
amazingly.
vary
I
same
could
The
to
us
carry
Ostend.
route
any
stay abroad
steamers
of
How
92
this line depart
rather
VISIT
TO
than
nine
at
rush
EUROPE
in the
the matter,
morning,
so,
returned
to
we
the
previous day and put up at
old lodging,repacked in a leisurely
manner
town
on
and
St. Katharine's
to
went
earlybreakfast
Perhaps, in
"
might
the
upon
be very
not
have
need
fear neither the
Our
had
we
made
cost
Al-
oceans
nor
a
the
mill-
glad that
were
shillingsand
the
covered
we
with
provision contract
a
Three
steward.
head
the great
English channel
and
"
the
crossing proved
pond-like excursion
an
but those
enticing,
passed days upon
Sea.
derground
un-
followingmorning.
rough weather,
who
North
by
omnibus, directlyafter
and
ouette
Wharf,
our
the
sixpence a
of all meals
eaten
en
route.
is fair
Ostend
as
the
"
time.
"
Digue
The
see
indeed
when
one
rives,
ar-
did, after night-fall.Possibly
we
called, is
to
as
even
more
the
water
front
attractive
is here
in the
rearing white walls, green
windows,
and
equipped balconies
those
oddest
opening
from
of
day
tered
shut-
daintily
the charm-
NEXT
ON
ing villas,doubtless
show
to
But
and
them
queer
uniformed
his
of many
and
then
terms
Place
Grand
Leopold
visit.
be
course,
et
n
of
attendance.
to
six
for
d'Albion
a
ionable
the fash-
on
in
muchness
Metropole,
francs
and
day.
a
the Grand
in
capitalpositions
of the chief objectsof
are
one
Eight
the bill,or
and
most
"
if the Casino
pay
the
d'Armes, is the least expensive
Hotel
Hotel
those
the Hotel
Perhaps
"
with
night's
a
of the hostelries
names
everything included
your
close
legion,and, except for
Digue, are much
The
stretched
out-
the power
by
price for
the
to
The
obligingman.
14
the
us
fluent,if imperfect,English.
lodging
their
umphed
tri-
carried
from
porters
It is well to demand
are
had
and
others
hotel, rescuing us
hands
of his
advantage.
who
man,
all the
over
to
light
sun-
by glimpses of shops
lowed
looking streets, caught as we fol-
the
off
best
the
to
brilliant
the
need
93
fascinated
were
we
NOTHING
TO
ten
francs
three francs
a
would
for room,
Apartments,
cheaper.
infinitely
day
Those
are,
light
of
facingthe
How
94
sea
the
are
VISIT
TO
expensive. In the various
most
leading out of
(wherein the markets
the
streets
houses
found
be
can
be
can
francs
month
or
week
will prove
or
few
Belgium
a
Be
to
sure
the
be
so
will
a
will be taken
up
for
taken
taste
tasted
from
the week
by
be
of
couple
cheaper.
can
commodati
ac-
if
But
spared
a
for
suffice for Ostend.
must
and
have
never
of
scores
had
thing, find
one
Parks
Oyster
held)
excellent
all that
do
d'Armes
in which
yet
days
Place
are
night. Rooms
a
EUROPE
your
oysters
them
before
the beds
to
way
as
you
they
"
before
your
eyes!
is somewhat
Ostend
added
attraction
element
foreign
There
and
is
a
noble
seen
frequently
the
Then
Digue.
Kursaal
is
and
promenade
King
a
given by the
oddness
fetes.
innumerable
splendid beach,
a
chalet of the
is
or
Brightonian with the
as
upon
at
Trouville,
which
is the
of the
Belgians. Royalty
among
the gay
groups
on
the tile-fagaded,
glittering
great attraction.
reading-rooms, and
It holds
splendid
tal
capi-
concert
NEXT
ON
halls and
offices.
here for the
then
And
there
for members
of the land.
of
the restrictions of
The
of August
races
of
thousands
attract
get into
No.
at
Janssens What
by
is the
Avenue
13
more
"
ple
peo-
if
there
difficulty,
polyglot inquiry office
Charles
Private
nationality. And,
every
chance, you
"
of the
with
dance.
of the gambling
is the attraction
famous, and
given
are
of those who
Club," in accordance
are
95
balls
Gorgeous
amusement
reserved
the law
NOTHING
TO
can
mand
de-
one
of Ostend?
It is
hour
a
curious
that from
"
change
to
modern
make
Ostend,
placeof laughter and mirth, to
cityof Bruges, oftentimes
of
of
1
height of
6th centuries
figure.
today,
its
watering
the old world
"
called the
ice
Ven-
Grass
it may
grows
for the trend
in other
directions
splendour in the I4th
Bruges
Now
200,000.
that
a
an
Belgium."
In the
and
in half
of
had
a
reach
population
tenth
a
in the main
since the
streets
has
commerce
Zwin,
of
a
gone
small
96
How
VISIT
channel
leading to the
TO
EUROPE
(despitethe strugglesof
the
the citizens
engulfingsand) and
"
its title of
a
Perhaps
cityin
of
memorials
more
la-Morte, and,
of
borders
with
as
Bruges of
Belgium
possesses
the
stood
Lac
the
d'
could
bear
we
planned I
this
than
What
"
dead
mossy
walled
Hotel
de
Counts
churches
Ville
of
the
gen
and
could
mossy
enchanted
remembered
back
away
ourselves
soon
as
be
more
as
the
to
how
we
had
charming
"
city of canals, red-roofed,
(the ancient
say
the Catherdal
so
then the
carts
costumes
and
drawn
the lace makers
of
the
nothing of
the
palace
de St. Sauveur's
tradition,even
says
d'Armes
the
it
Flanders), to
and
And
leave
the
houses, the magnificentGothic
dating back,
A. D !
to
and
asked
we
Bruges-
spiresand steeples
dating
century,
on
Amour,
of the
gateways
than
past
reflected in the clear water,
fourteenth
against
bereft
so
all
we
the clearness
the old
up,
port."
sea
no
Sea, silted
North
at
the
of the
peasants
to
646
people,
panying
accom-
by powerful dogs
work
in the
narrow
"
98
How
until
not
was
the way
on
grasped
had
we
that Comrade
train
suddenly
exclaiming in dismay that
arm,
my
the
actuallyin
were
we
Ghent
to
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
seek
forgotten to
that famous
out
religiouscolony on the Beguinage,and,worse
the picturesof Hans
And
still,
Memling!
then!
Ghent
"
proved
Bruges, though it is
twenty-sixof them,
by eighty odd
It would
eagerness
us,
so
until
our
only
when
return
and
place and
most
an
"
have
to
it,but
seized
had
postponed
was
straighton
for
day's explorationof
a
took
we
Dinant
ever
ous!
prosper-
to
came
we
a
and
perfect mornings
the river amid
too
natural
made
we
citadel
towards
islands
the Ardennes
where, after
the Meuse
the
see
It is
Brussels,like Antwerp,
Namur,
the
to
of
believe,linked together
been
Brussels
an
city of
a
bridges.
have
stopped in
I
the charm
lack
to
boat
spent
of
one
tour
our
changing
down
of
on
panorama
of loveliness.
Dinant
in my
will
memory.
always
Our
remain
a
place apart
first morning
glimpse
NEXT
ON
of it happened
market
day
when
of
clatter
the
to
in the market
camped
is built
a
dwelt.
tenon
once
from
which
the
rivers
few
pence.
Chateau
is a
carrying passengers
One
morning we
spent
we
lunching
Royal ;
in the
solitudes
learnt
to
know
capitalcentre
the
excellent littlesteamboats
tiere, another
Ardenne,
Dinant
explore the valleys of
to
and
Ardennes,
which
de Main-
Madame
citadel in which
the
place by
frowning rock, on
the
cathedral,under
then
in
what
at
went
dreamed
in the
pages
very
to
Hasof
the
once
dreams
sweet
woods
a
forest
the
was
the
of
for
ply
first
had
we
of
"As
You
It."
Castles
the
a
99
selves
clogs,and peasants, shelteringthemunder
and
their wares
brellas,
giganticum-
wooden
Like
be upon
to
resounded
cobbles
the
NOTHING
TO
and
valleysof
Small
wonder
ruins appear
both
the
that
they
the
artists.
Then,
rich
history, Gauls,
in
too,
as
if
and
Lesse
are
by magic
the
whole
in
Meuse.
haunts
of
localityis
Belgae, Romans,
Franks, Vandals, Huns, and Normans,
have
ioo
How
fought
and
lived
behind
traces
We
VISIT
TO
here^,!and all have
not
the Grottos
of
planned
originally
Hans, but
carriagegave
of them
the
that
caves
followed
we
the short
of
group
drove
to
the bowels
we
wonders
of the earth, two
anything can
the
As
set
out
for
goblins from
catch
nether
the
"
of
of the
tains?
moun-
cold
catacombs,
queer
world
glimpses of them
light of the double-wicked
the
I wonder
shiveringin the
children
the
see
subterranean
the range
from
blows
to
year
the weirdness
to
stands
one
the 100,-
eyelessfish.
entrance
swarming
you
less
un-
Accordingly
among
halls and
surpass
as
complete
and
each
come
if
come
tion
descrip-
a
journey to Eprave, there joined a
mounted
coaches and
sightseers,
into
Jemelle,where we descended
live
blast that
be
local directions
of alabaster
at
way
rail-
a
obliged to decide
included.
rivers,wherein
scene
such
were
were
visitors who
ooo
Comrade
visit
to
in
someone
Belgian tripwould
no
left
them.
had
that
EUROPE
out
little silent
they
seem,
in the flickering
lamps they
NEXT
ON
and
before
Look
carry.
a
see
you
;ahead, look
the
down
of
are
lightsgleaming on
behind, they are following you
slipperydefiles
"
be
hours, incredible
the time you
through the
echoes
boats
gleams like
with the
contrast
And
A
rates.
entitles you
often
lines.
as
to
you
A
be
third-class
slit-
trebly
picturebefore
had
at
ticket
where
like,over
outer
the
out,
of it all.
season
go
arms,
you
behind.
cost
can
hind
be-
blackness
vast
the
on
tion
the great detona-
caverns
for the
now
railway tickets
cheap
embark
scramble
by which you
realizingthe beauty of
two
seem,
may
jewel through
a
like exit
in
others
"
Then, propelledby strong
the
shoot
forward, and
you.
world
it
scrape
sky-
It is
until you
enter
river and
the subterranean
the
though
as
over
galleries
fairyland.
of
caves
the
them
inside
put
and
American
proportions
noble
gleaming
from
of
Some
boulders.
could
are
darkness
the
in
you
line of their
narrow
grotesque
^NOTHING
.TO
you
the
ticket
Belgian
wonderfully
for five days
will and
3,000
miles
as
of
(wooden-seated
How
VISIT
TO
carriages)comes
pence;
a
second, to
the
length of
not
take
if
a
time
are
obtained
For
in
addition
deposit of four
its
yourself (about
ghem,
Le
and
London
three
be
a
price
half
If you
square),
not
a
franc
for
taken
Boulevard
He
will
give you
by
Ise-
van
four
one
copies
sum!
OF
EXPENSE.
ticket, first class, London
to
Ostend
$ 2.87
back
lodging,
a
your
have
36
MEMORANDUM
station
portrait of
A
Bon,
Ostend.
be
can
give up
you
inch and
an
for this munificent
Return
the
expiration.
snap-shot will
Monsieur
holiday such
to
when
will also be necessary.
a
much
as
shillingsis required, but
this will be refunded
ticket upon
spent about
limited
to
as
spend, did
to
They
Belgian Railway
the
Ostend;
a
a
time, are
convenient.
very
at
meant
and
the
uncertain
being
we
season,
had.
we
tickets
in
and
shillings
seventeen
the price. We,
twice
and nine
shillings
Others, lastingdouble
penny.
as
nine
to
EUROPE
one
shillings and
night, breakfast
sixpence
and
fares,
87
Meals
on
head
ON
NEXT
board
(three
NOTHING
TO
shillings
and
[103
six
pence
per
inclusive)
Ostend
hotel
87
nights,
(two
with
breakfasts)
seven
eighty
francs
Rooms
in
1.62
Bruges
six
nights
(three
francs
sive)
inclu1.25
Namur
with
night
(one
breakfast),
four
francs
87
twenty
Dinant
nights)
(three
Living
tips,
expenses,
Railway
third)
Grottos
de
for
Incidentals
francs
1.25
9.88
etc
boatfares
and
sometimes
to
six
(sometimes
and
eight
second
francs
entrance
class,
fee
Han
4.00
return..
i.oo
$24.48
NOTE.
railway
These
"
the
journeys
together
with
to
the
Brussels
Waterloo,
return
include
fares
to
Ostend.
the
and
expense
Antwerp,
of
to-
CHAPTER
BRUSSELS
THE
"
FIELD
HINT
A
OTHERS
UNDUE
IN
THE
of
worst
expect
WE
FOREIGN
A
WARNING
A
DID,
TO
ODS
METH-
WITH
COMFORTABLY
to
you
Brussels
(WITHOUT
CITY"
for
especiallywhen
MEMORANDUM
there
course
four
as
Propiers,
is also
charge
such
at
Comrade
call
is well
tie
and
a
at
of
Veve's
one
more
I
62
or
it
in
rooms
fortnight. Of
all
prices
from
likewise
25
here.
Rue
de
by everybody,
Rue
Veldt
shillingsa
followed
104
but
premium,
Doltoure,
is four
town,
boarding-houses
spoken
Madame
places
than
Madame
each
a
is
week
day inclusive,and
they
kept by
Belgians
A
furnished
hotels
are
shillingsa
pensions,
That
less
in it.
at
obtain
to
for
Brussels
is
the
continental
any
time
impossible
is that
long
too
stay
usually enough
as
AND
WERP,
ANT-
"
EXPENSES.
OF
is
SELF
MENT
MONU-
ITS
CHATEAUX
AND
THAN
ONE'S
EXPENSE)
WITH
GLORIES
ITS
LONGER
LODGING
OF
FARMS
OF
STAY
TO
WATERLOO
OF
HISTORIC
AND
XI
(the
day)
but
less.
our
usual
plan,
How
106
the Cathedral
Gardens
of
Gudule, the Royal
Sainte
Palais de
and
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
while
Justice,
chimney-likemonument
the lower
from
"
afar.
For
paid
as
francs
14
in these
week.
a
for
obtained
be
water
was
looked
we
the
down
pipe.
Comrade
to
I
catch
we
photographed
The
when
rest
we
a
up
to
while
Comrade's
of the
were
Belgium, there
ning
Run-
so.
morning
more
are
dozen
a
jug
the
on
a
goats.
deficiencies.
cover
milk
fled down
him
ways
al-
boy sauntering
a
the surprised youth
straightinto
vided
pro-
it could
next
us
see
coats
or
landing.
froliced
long
then
is not
or
us
it, we
playing a joyful tune
caught
camera,
to
him
flungon
We
out
street
Round
franc
awakened
Strange music
and
found
we
a
the
on
called
Service
but
cases
to
little flat
landlady
our
flight
landmark
a
compact
our
"
quartier
as
tall,
leadingto
street,
our
served
town,
the
crowning
of steps at the foot of
the
I the
and
flaggedstairs
at
the
he milked
corner.
a
goat
jug.
obtained
provender was
fully garbed for, in
always
"
shops
around
NEXT
ON
the corner."
gods
eggs
fresh
rolls
"
dime
a
first
a
see
coin and
so
we
itself,rather
Brussels
flown!
content
were
The
lace
over
shops
yards of
(and winged
Pointe
upwards)
cents
are
those unaccustomed
than
had
week
whole
occupy
delicate
we
place.
any
collars,
Venise, raised
de
butterflies
a
alone
mornings, the filmyscarves,
the
that
decided
experimentaljourney to
an
Before
to
fitfor the
breakfast
a
(bought ready boiled) fruit,
and coffee,the cost being about
tossed
should
20
107
apiece.
We
make
had
We
NOTHING
TO
roses
ranging in pricefrom
so
enticing,
especially
to
Belgium prices.
down
earlymornings we wandered
the Rue-du-Beurre-et-Fromage or
past the
In the
cathedral
to
the market
place,where
facade of the Hotel
de
the
quisite
ex-
Ville,famous
justlyis throughout all Europe, offers
a
splendidbackground for the kaleidoscopic
in the market
scenes
place in which the
Flemish
to
buy and sell.
peasants assemble
in
the stones
They come
clatteringover
as
it
great
wooden
clogs,gay
costumes
and
odd
io8
How
VISIT
TO
laden
head-dresses, some
driving carts
EUROPE
with
market
dined
chanced
cafes in whatever
at
learnt
be, and
to
that in Brussels
with
The
a
meal
it
than
wonderful
to
without
go
of
cathedral
coaxed
museums
are
open
to
a
in these
we
franc
gardens
When
do?
other
in the afternoons.
their parents.
"
admission.
are
ing
attendSome
of
The
concerts
famous, for Brussels
centres
distant
most
at
'*
the
Gud-
free,others charge fiftycentimes
of the music
from
or
the littlest children
with
constantly
one
Sainte
were
places,even
these
it!
frequentlyspent in the
ing
Jardin." These are family gather-
evenings
Biere
order
picturegalleriesand
them
to
us
we
ment
bewilder-
cheaper to
is
to
beautiful churches, the
"
in this
quarter
our
ule, the Eglise Sainte-Marie,
The
are
place.
We
beer
found
be
some
There
pulled by dogs!
failingpictures to
never
goods,
lands
of
Europe
come
;
is
students
here
for
struct
in-
the Conservatoire.
these
asked
pleasures pall,what
Comrade
one
morning
shall
when
NEXT
ON
NOTHING
TO
greeted the comical
we
in the
statues
without
gardens almost
109
smile.
a
royal
They
are
being
extraordinaryproductions,artistically,
the busts of celebrated
feet
I
a
the
at
"
of
base
shaped pedestals
on
men
pedestalsbare
these
protrude!
thought for
Fifteen
capitalcentre.
takes you
half
Antwerp
(or
reached.
But
so
minutes
Louvain, the abode
to
monastery,
for Brussels
moment,
a
hour,
an
Anvers
or
I had
a
famous
a
and
littlemore,
a
it is called
as
train
by
of
for
longing for the
"
objective of
the
try,
coun-
That
shall
be
was
first
our
is
here)
the field of the battle of Waterloo
selected
is
to-morrow,"
cursion.
ex-
cided
de-
Comrade.
Our
the
to
faded
worn,
pleasantestway
depart from
leave the train
her
scuffled
over
group
was
to
the
at
a
du
Gare
to
told
Midi
PAlleud.
find
us
to
take
of
to
lowed
fol-
We
ourselves
drivers, each
trying to persuade
was
and
wayside station by
of
that
us
Waterloo
to
go
Braine
advice
at
landlady
being
a
ticulatin
ges-
whom
his par-
How
TO
ticular half
franc
no
swooped
voluable
naires
to
our
frauds
the
carriageshe
did
others)
that she
found
However
a
the
great
follow
us
select I
was
monument
at
which
and
England
the
fields upon
famous
Guides
which
Antipodes, to
was
battles in all
are
always
give information
the
200
drive
of
foot
had
men
brings
them
from
every
America, Spain,France,
his Mound,
lion upon
and
"
the steps tourists
day. Every train
carriage loads.
They come
part of the world.
(and
We
enough
at
us
Up
to
paid charioteer!
a
all
climb
show
her
thanks
comfortable
for 4 years.
laboured
horses, but that
let
finallydelivered
she
commission-
effusive
too
French
delightedto
would
it was
and
in
be
Only
with
"
all the
with lame
she could.
what
war.
in
explaining,
rescue,
she, she herself,would
us
of
seat
capable
a
that
English,
were
the
to
Suddenly
passengers.
damsel
ride
bewildered, as did several other
stood
We
EUROPE
VISIT
see
gazing
fought one
this Belgian
the
over
of the most
history.
in attendance
in any
ready
language,and
if
to
one
NEXT
ON
their services
wants
a
few
landmarks
by means
tiringof
placards,so,
off
made
are
the crowds,
ourselves
by
for
of commemorative
the eye
plainto
in
be obtained
they can
the
But
sous.
NOTHING
TO
over
we
dered
wan-
the
historic
was
fought,
ground.
It
June when
was
it
now
Waterloo
later in the year.
was
waving wheat
place of
In
golden stoops of grain,
and hedgerows full of wildflowers, fragrant
clover.
with
heard
we
we
Down
of
saw
Instead
the
joyous song
the
country
Braine
of
the brunt
of the
the Chateau
of
rested
La
which
struggle. Across
the
squares
lage
the vil-
towards
Sainte
Haye
among
cannon
is the white-walled
Hugomont
unbroken
of
roar
of larks.
road
PAlleud
farmhouse
We
of the
can
be
bore
the fields
seen.
golden grain,picturing
of Highlanders on
the wide
and
undulatingplains,seeing Napoleon
Wellington and the memorable
charge
of Blucher; then
the
joy
listened
of
to
life
forgot everything save
we
as
we
ate
our
picniclunch,
the birds, gathered great bunches
How
ii2
of
wildflowers
and
Belgian children
names
How
can
the
saw
the
entered
importance when
glasses? Or
a
is
possibleout
We
surrounded
postcard vendors
"
nights.
inged
room
It
Flemish
Blucher
met
from
the
her
mother
and
saw
Napoleon.
displaysthe
picture-
Wellington spent
the tiny,low ceillish
Eng-
great
after
the
battle.
proprietress tells with
that
The
lay-figure?
mous
quietude of the fa-
in
was
lived
marks
there
Then,
of
form
uni-
it is displayed
when
of this inn that the
general
oaken
the
Alliance," wherein
three
The
to
escape
of
beer
by empty
blood-stained
war-worn,
glad to
were
great
cuirass look
or
dress-maker's
a
in
scoffingspirit rises.
a
inspireheroic thoughts
on
yards.
farm-
little inns with
rusty sword
a
white-haired
tossing hay in the
When
are
EUROPE
of the past
Realisation
the open.
VISIT
TO
in those
with
bullets
pride
days
awe,
she
in the
thick
doors.
half
place seems
the peasants
and
few
holy in the eyes of
forgetto genuflectwhen
How
ii4
of
regardless
dragged
VISIT
TO
schedule
our
in
of
flat
OF
(two
Comrade
I
day
a
MEMORANDUM
Rent
and
"
back
me
EUROPE
weeks
EXPENSE.
fourteen
at
francs
per
week
.$
Entrance
fees,
Sundry
etc.,
five
fares,
car
Breakfasts,
averaging
Luncheons,
averaging
Dinners,
yielded
tried
the
the
best
to
francs
one
at
i.oo
centimes
2.80
francs,
two
and
where
charge)
Incidentals
1.75
franc
temptation
restaurants
3.00
francs
sixty
(mainly
etc.
fifteen
say
5.60
but
we
(four
five
francs
times
some-
times)
was
8.00
and
personal
expenses
1.75
$23.90
XII
CHAPTER
RIVIERA
THE
ROUTES
"
NEED
ORLEANS,"
MEMORANDUM
far
As
much
the
to
of
apex
be
to
not
The
your
rail
from
In
one
case
circular
limited)
be
Paris
however,
returning
via
from
if
London,
Paris
the
and
journey.
capital
advantage
is
ticket
of
journey
Brussels.
from
Belgian
the
lost, (since it is
other, the
in the
is offset
hours
is five
three
Ostend,
somewhat
to
"
very
direct
destination
final
your
touring
recrossed
LIFE
to
comes
go
you
or
the
and
OF
HER
OF
it
whether
French
by
THE
"MAID
THE
TRAGEDY
is concerned
same
Belgium
is
cost
OVER
STOP-
EXPENSES.
OF
as
A
"
CHURCHES"
OF
HUMAN
THE
AND
FOR
ENT
CONVENI-
MOST
OF
REHABILITATION
THE
OF
ROUTE
NOTIFICATION
CITY
THE
EN
AND
POLICE
OF
ROUEN,
AT
IRONY
EXPENSIVE
LEAST
"
AFIELD"
FURTHER
PROJECTS"
DARING
channel
unnecessarily.
the
by
England
more
115
fact
parts
that
of
must
This,
by
first
Belgium
How
ii6
visited
be
can
VISIT
TO
the way.
on
little off the
a
worth
seeing. Malins
charms
of their
the Dutch
stance
Ypres, for in-
usual
route,
and
Tournai
And
own.
frontier is
when
only
a
is well
have
at
Antwerp
short
distance
easilybe included
off, it could
in
broad
a
of travel.
sweep
being elated
We,
and
which
The
us
would
enter
we
her
There
a
and,
differ but
ness
their firmventure
should
Italy if
choice
as
of diverse
but
know
yard
a
fare
ticket
return
of the French
at
privileges
from
routes
competition is keen,
slightly.The
class,45 day
the heart
in
manner
to
Riviera
neying,
jour-
border!
is
London,
Paris
to
for
rates
second-
a
Monte
Carlo,
Riviera, with
and
various
over
stop-
ant
import-
is $44.50 by the South
cities,
continental
Eastern
Chatham
average
rate
the
the
outline, determined
afield.
in
success
our
delightedwith
further
across
with
pocket-booksretained
our
of
"
EUROPE
R.
R.
and
for the shorter
lowest
is $37.50.
this is
channel
The
a
fair
ings;
cross-
London
ON
NEXT
South
and
The
the least expensive.
about
seems
Newhaven
(that by
route
advertised
Dieppe)
117
ton
Railway, via Southamp-
Western
Havre
and
NOTHING
TO
as
dearer by $2
reality
"the
cheapest"
This
$2.50.
or
and
is in
is
way
For
pleasantif a daylightjourneybe desired.
a nightcrossingthe Southampton-Havre
way
is good, since there is time for
very
aboard.
night'srest
arrive
and
ship,or
the
railway station.
of
the
else
meal
the
If you
a
only want
return
seven
eight
or
go
to
Paris
by this
This
would
be
berth
in the
general cabin, where
Private
cabins
be had
by going
in fare is
$10.00.
for two
$1.25
who
have
and
first class.
per
travellers
business
some
person
are
at
the cost
London
route
for
on
be snatched
ticket from
accommodation
o'clock
will be served
can
to
table
comfor-
sail at midnight
You
Breakfast
morning.
next
at
a
includes
there
a
is
twenty persons.
four persons
can
The
each
difference
usuallythe
people, teachers, and
been visiting
England.
ond-cla
Sec-
way.
the
smaller
French,
n8
How
It
that
when
was
The
crowded,
this
to
be your
to
that
route
trite
that
means
a
this
not
must
that it is
say
likely
are
of
a
an
For
be.
cityof
a
souvenirs
of
wooded
"
"
word
Joan
the
towers,
"
that
that, and
"
the
of
towns
littlefor the needs
there
spires
everything
charm
a
of Arc.
desiring temporary
If
last
winding river,with
is unlike
that it caters
drals
cathe-
it is
sky
a
It sounds
rest
azure
the
select
to
that is the first and
Rouen.
vitalises
hotels.
if the boat
Whatever
slopesbeyond, twistingstreets,
Rouen
sleeping
be
Rouen.
to
of
panorama
against
tourist
a
rug
would
anyone
but somehow
memory
to
reserve
includes
else be omitted
rather
going direct
fate.
advice
My
not
chair and
deck
a
for
than
latter will
accommodation
be
tickets for Paris
reason
a
rather
company
agency.
EUROPE
taking our
discovered
we
the
to
VISIT
TO
quarters
rooms
are
flats to
be let,they
matters
the less because
are
well
Belgium
in
of transients
than
other
or
furnished
hidden.
the hotels
in
are
This
good
ON
cheap, and
and
within easy
francs
ten
We
Rouen
the
h'otelrates
the
a
on
are
de
Qua!
a
la
nine
average
day. This is in
capitalposition.
exceedingly comfortable
were
long, balustraded
our
faced
windows
the river up which passed a perfect
of picturesque
vessels.
Large ones
upon
stream
startingfor Havre
bringing valuable
and
sea,
sightsof
the
119
reach of each other.
where
Bourse
and
NOTHING
TO
settled ourselves
We
or
NEXT
Paris, sailingships
or
cargoes
from
the
across
from
barges driftingslowlydown
the interior.
if any
I wonder
world
holds
more
The
Rouen?
with
Tower
was
churches
statues
than
lies the
Coeur-de-Lion, is
its 399
all the
thing
a
looking down
their niches,and its splendid" Butter
from
the
wonderful
place in
Cathedral, in which
heart of Richard
apart,
other
rearing its height above
buildingsand so christened
accumulated
built by the sum
the
eating of butter
Candles
on
glowworms
the many
the
because
in
You
are
it
mitting
per-
Lent!
side altars look
in the vastness.
of
rest
from
"
like
for-
How
120
if you
tunate
such
St. Ouen
chapels
hear
can
famous
are
glory of
VISIT
TO
and
is called
had
century
the
the
used
built
a
stands.
it
as
A
eighteenth,the
where
forge
the
build,and
bonfires
of
obscurity and
altar
roof
found
stairways! We
vainly against the
cathedral, and
were
down
ask
again
to
custodian
one
a
to
the
light.
to
intended
turn
these
spiral
beating
of that
feel
the
but, oh,
"
our
The
obliginglyrewarded
of the candles
It is curious
wall
forced
for
of
ourselves
stone
now
above
of
darkness
and
arms,
extraordinary gargoyles of any
churches gives a fine idea of Rouen
the
in
ists
revolution-
main
the
round
walk
France.
In the sixteenth
manufactory
a
other,
any
to
lighted
Hugonots
seems
of
gems
history.
In the
naves.
the
of years
thousands
stormy
a
a
windows,
than
gorgeous
of
one
is
St. Maclou
built,while
It has taken
has
St. Gothard's
of the loveliest Gothic
surelyone
ever
for
mass,
136 wonderful
with
elaborate and
more
musical
a
here.
colour
is
EUROPE
in the
way
ful
cheerus
with
for the saints I
from
the
grandeur
How
122
"...
vraiment,
detraite
hors
et
si
les
vous
en
jours que
help you
she
had
disoye-je,
appres
went
from
of
been
directed
and
the
Vaucouleurs
by
God
back
to
would
about
her
not
be
soldiers
Rheims.
saw
heaven-sent
commandant
ask
That
to
her
back
the
try
coun-
Small
thought her mad,
the
and
"
taken
Voices
"
girl,working
visions of herself
ing
lead-
victoryand crowning a king
Again and again she applied
to
for the soldiers in order
a
and
conquerors.
stilled,and
the farm,
face
go
whipped
village. But the
own
soldiers
at
to
that she be
advised
to
reason?
Her
English
the
that
in her short
Domremy
King, to fightfor him and win
wonder
durees
me
lage
picturethe fair-haired vil-
to
soldiers.
from
le
vous
of the maid
of
escort
chose,
force"
par
Commandment
an
fa'tre
faire partir I'ame
et
chose
child who
the
deviez
me
diray-jeautre
little statues
skirts
vous
vour
disoye-jetons
The
EUROPE
ne
se
ancune
fait dire
se
membres
du corps
se
VISIT
TO
that she
mandate.
yielded,gave
And
her
might obey
at
last
soldiers
the
and
ON
her
sent
a
king. The
board
of learned
of her
them
princes and
ranks
their
lifted
she
In
place.
months
an
three
the
to
the
beginningof
seventeen
in the
took
veterans
tremendous
for
she
assaults
long
seven
by
her victories
;
this
to
It
she
doing
so
is known
of Orleans."
Maid
was
convince
and
army,
Orleans, and
beset
The
day""
men
war-worn
the title by which
won
ordeal
siege that
the
had
next
Then
girlled forth
old
123
sion.
the truth of her mis-
sanityand
succeeded.
She
year
NOTHING
TO
the
to
face
to
NEXT
but
was
fought on,
triumph succeeded
and
weeks
she broke
which
had
hearts
her
the
lain like
close
to
vision and
set
to
of France's
If you
stand
shadow
a
300
on
Rheims
went
triumph,until in eight
in France
English power
years.
carry
the
out
crown
French
across
And
then
she
the last part of
upon
the brow
king.
have
time,
in the cathedral
the
scene
"
go
to
here
the
Rheims;
in Rouen
the
and
construct
re-
king, his nobles and
soldiers,the visionary-eyedchild,and
background
if not,
wondering
peasants
in the
from
How
ii24
VISIT
TO
EUROPE
her
littledeputationheaded
a
village,
father of Jeanne d'Arc.
"
What
king.
reward
And
did she want?
the
for her
herself,since her task
The
return
to
firstrequest
asked
kneeling girl,ask
of taxation
to
"
by
the
the
the
mission
re-
village,
and, for
fulfilled,
sion
permis-
was
Domremy with her father.
was
granted readilyenough,
has
France
(though short memoried
now
forgottenher gratitude),but the second was
drive the
First,she must
laughed to scorn.
English from Paris.
But Jeanne had looked into the future and
her fears were
her's
justified.No more
was
uninterruptedcareer
an
time later she found
to
herself
a
short
a
prisoner,held
for $12,000.
ransom
She
of success;
waited
in
six months.
but, her
rope
growing
Once
bitterness
she tried
breaking,she
to
failed.
for
most
al-
escape,
At
last
and
Bishop of Beauvais paid the money
got possessionof her for the church, in order
that she might be tried for witchcraft,and
attire. It
for the crime of wearing male
the
was
in this sombre
tower
in Rouen
that she
ON
NEXT
trial.
awaited
NOTHING
TO
Her
her.
Then
came,
and
"
the
and
she
told
"
voices
him
handed
the stake
at
where
of the
scene
flames
her
tragedy.
village
own
"
He
she
speedy, and
was
English
now
Her
be burnt
to
a
the
marks
last cry,
her, was
"
visions
directed her.
the tablet
about
rose
the
to
over
despair,
be got from
her
of
that had
betrayed her, judgment
was
could
bishop from
the
in
judges were
incriminatingevidence
no
125
prayer
the
as
for her
country.
Then
the
came
later
twenty-five
years
asked
were
positionof
regarding
a
king
the throne
upon
of
is classed
as
a
who
from
London
it all.
unpleasant questions
the
had
validityof
been
Hotel
at
"
Entrance
habilit
Reshe
saint.
OF
to
the
EXPENSE.
Riviera
with
stopover
$37-5"
cab, etc.
Rouen,
the
established
"
privileges
Breakfast
Some
hence the
by a witch
Jeanne d'Arc."
To-day
MEMORANDUM
Fare
of
irony
two
(en
route
days
fees, tips,etc
to
Rouen)
60
3.60
2.00
$43.70
CHAPTER
FRANCE""
IN
CONSEILS
INQUISITORIAL
TIPPING
PAPERS
REGARDING
and
smiled
after
St.
of
"
cocker
friend, the
de
when
RULES
drove
the
Grand
to
indicated
us
to
by
the
a-glimmer
of
address
Passy
rolled
we
in
;
tiny
click
126
beside
the
of
a
friendly
given
de
our
by
Passy,
through
a
10
the
obliging
previously
landmarks
name
has
made
was
restaurant
charge
an
exactly
Paris
yet
city was
a
here
are
seem
thoroughfares,
broad
to
We
not
at
Hotel
As
Americans,
arrival
then, in the
charioteer
listened
DENTS,
STU-
FRENCH
LITTLE,""
"
and
"
dined
Passy.
smooth,
known
HINTS,
Good
Our
us.
nightfall
"
it does
Paradise
upon
Lazare,
Rue
TIP
Paris?
to
go
light. We
with
THEIR
RESTAURANTS"
BUT
said
somehow
idea
my
"
it first
they die,
now
AND
QUARTER
AND
OFTEN
TIP
HOTELS
OMNIBUSES.
was
when
LATIN
"
CLUBS
RULE""
""
PRATIQUE
HOSTELRIES,
WHO
XIII
intervals
the
we
taximeter
NEXT
ON
that
registering
and
traversed
How
nights in
so
The
They
tell of
expensive,therefore
remain
in
It is
we
as
is
There
transportation
"
you
a
slowest
too,
of boats
goodly number
this is of
can
the
course
be obtained
fifteen cents
at
being the
room
By taking our
a
was
was
to
served
there
the Seine,
cabs,
reallynominal rates,
minimum
charge.
or
by the week
"
consisted of
"
tiny chambres," the rate
fast
three francs a night. Break-
suite of three
reduced
ground
under-
Taximeter
for the apartment
rather rooms,
of
means
and
on
may.
though the
pleasantest,
of travel.
method
of
de
Tower
you
direction and
trains go in every
are
to
the Bois
omnibuses
cars,
decided
best parts of
where
choice
excellent
an
of
Eiffel
the
too,
landmark, be
a
are
situated,
conveniently
being within easy reach of the
Paris, the Champs Elysees and
Then,
wind;
central hotels
course
Passy.
like the
pass
matters.
practical
and
well known
serves
been
spent another penny !
of days and
keep count
Paris?
Boulogne.
had
had
we
firstlet me
127
distance
certain
a
one
can
NOTHING
TO
to
us
at
a
small table in the
ia8
How
VISIT
TO
EUROPE
on
big,cool salle-a-manger
It
French
a
was
only
wanted
breakfast, of
of
coffee and
something
"
ceufsa
la
couple of
boiled,new-laid
If, instead
ventured
Bank"
of
going
price for
a
environs
of
francs
be had
they can
charge
number
Madame,
nice
is
to
a
room
be
a
by
d'Odessa.
a
obtained
rates
young
go
the month
Hotel
clean
particularly
as
Latin,
three dollars.
the Grand
at
Rue
2
rooms
from
ordinary
St. Michel, the
Boulevard
Take
lower.
even
an
In the immediate
capitalroom.
the
less.
Montparnasse, for
night is
a
do
from
spent much
artery of the Quartier
main
the
have
Left
to
return
our
upon
should
"
the
on
had
we
determined
we
as
the station of
instance,two
dered
or-
tional
addi-
an
Passy,
to
quarter
remained
near
we
eggs.
the Riviera, we
Even
When
apiece for perfectly
cents
,
time
rolls.
coque" and paid
(of the Seine)
if any
sisting
con-
course,
substantial,we
more
the Latin
to
ground floor.
the
This
Saint
At
and
44
is
Malo,
Rue
little place,as
student
could
for five dollars
a
want
month
How
130
VISIT
TO
plainlymarked
patronisedby men
the
on
the Rue
for
the
here
the
wine
students.
bread
for
is served
considered
tips are
Georges
At
four
with
The
and
courses
Maison
Lemasson,
givesan hors-d'euvre
"
with
order.
de la Garde
for
franc
167 Rue
cafes
oldest
is
served
a
in
one
sous
the
the
franc
(fortycents),but
At
de
trifle more
at
majority of
you
a
"
Rennes,
want
tables
vege-
bottle of
for
The
one
Maison
of
one
the
trict,
Montparnasse disexpensive,dejeuner is
fifty,dinners
have
these
a
double
at
good
two,
choice.
places a couple of
is sufficientfor the waiter, the
ones
Potier
Passage
twenty-fivecentimes.
Bordeaux,
quarter.
a
discretion
at
and
few
A
(or soup), meat,
bread
du
vegetables
(or fish),dessert,and half
wine
omically
econ-
fifteen cents,
wine
on
Rue
14
off there is the Restaurant
doors
to
meat,
of
out
Procop
is included
Bouillon
Bac, upstairs,a dejeunerof
and
is the
is also well known
minded
much
place
students
art
cents,
street
same
A
menu.
Mazarin,
twenty
EUROPE
more
this modest
pensive
ex-
sum.
ON
while
new
NEXT
NOTHING
TO
131
the
if you wish to be reallygenerous,
nickle coin (worth five cents) is decidedly
convenient.
all the
On
"
appeal
there
menus
Visitors
"
their
dogs
is
prayed
are
the
upon
imploring
an
not
to
ish
nour-
of
materials
the
house!"
these
But
the
students'
know
where
of the
The
and
restaurants
to
go
in them
to
various
select
in the
pricesabove
are
marked
twenty
forty,one
at
upon
known
the
menu.
them.
It is
like.
presented
with
dishes you
The
for
instance,
in the
section,two
glance,with
table.
a
you
is
this;one,
sixty.
is that
columns
are
centimes
in the
a
on
card
a
which
on
you,
some
localityand
spend what
enter,
you
obtain
in every
are
can
you
When
well
are
difficult to
restaurants
to
certainlyenormous.
are
patronised.Their only fault
it is sometimes
These
well
just as
for
districts,
in other
establishments
Duval
less in
or
more
It is
quarter.
prices asked
much
are
These
the
always
can
be
pared,
com-
pricesmarked
well
to
verify
132
How
the
calculations
weak
At
of
"
French
arithmetic
these
free
served
EUROPE
yourself;the
where
heads
most
VISIT
TO
have
is concerned.
places,while
bread
is
discretion,"serviettes and
at
charged for. Almost invariably
centimes (two cents)more
than the corten
rect
priceis charged should no kind of drink
be taken. A choice of tea, coffee,
wine, cider,
milk and mineral water, is given.
It is rather fun, after a course
of quaint,
water
out
are
of the way
for
extreme,
a
night or
fashionable
cafes.
Rivoli
and
in the
Palais
Royal, are
the white
clothed
to
the other
and
two,
Those
the
on
visit the
Rue
de
courtyard by the
enjoyable. In the latter
wide
tables
air,sheltered from
from
to go
restaurants,
set
out
the wind
by
threatened
in the open
trees
in tubs,
showers
by a quickly
moveable, striped awning, certainlyhave
The pleasuremay
be had for
great charm.
and
any
Some
sum
between
four and
people dislike
ten
the open
in Paris, and
francs
a
meal.
air life led
by
pedestrians
object to
the tables,but
perpetuallypassingamong
many
enjoyed it thoroughly.
we
NEXT
ON
was
at
upon
to
letter of the
and
*
such details about
names
the
France, where
going, when
and
for
in France
a
to
satisfying
its
we
Our
names
whyl
vast
to
time
such
Are
we
of
a
the French
tered
en-
facts
occupation must
band
take
home
our
from, whither
come
thing to do,
is
of
address
because
only
wise
'
the
nationality,
domicile,"our
A
?
us
are
the years,
of the event,
found
desire
required,professions,
of our
births,not only
respective
but the days, months, and place
given
the dates
"
groaningly
in, should the government
filledthem
know
decide
you
desire of the
is the
such
room,
your
before
almost
you
to keep within the
proprietors
law. 'Why?'
asked, as we
we
to
133
ment
noveltyin which we found amusethe inquisitorial
ered
encountpapers
hotels.
French
the
They are
Another
handed
NOTHING
TO
"
quired
re-
be
fonctlonnaire"?
when
going
on
stay
It is very
passport.
mind,
to
account
of
seals,is useful if only for identification
purposes,
wrong.
and
The
invaluable
Prefect
of
nothing for stamping it.
if
anything
Police
goes
charges
How
134
Now
of
VISIT
TO
for
one
hint
more
of unlimited
he
daring
the Frenchman
repeated dashes
and
down,
are
are
almost
a
in and
to
one
there
you
is
board
fare
But
will
numbers
outside
Guides
tered
mas-
the system I
always that if
during the busy
obtain
a
not
be
cents,
are
the
out
With-
in, unless
holding the
admitted
are
is three
allowed
Those
room.
hours
ticket from
stopping stations.
inside,transfers
they cost
foreigner
have
you
remember
one
the
at
plentyof
lowest
a
of trains,upstairs
out
mysteriesof
it is essential first to
littlekiosks
pleased
more
to
"
necessityuntil
for the cars,
wish
the
be
changes
more
decidedlyconfusing.
the intricate
As
to
seems
sessed
pos-
patience,venture
The
underground.
are
you
and
get for his money,
can
you
regarding means
Unless
transportation.
not
EUROPE
first. The
inside, double.
given free, outside
good so^s!
Another
in
thing to remember, in your journey
France, is that tipping is universal.
Luckily,though,
that
it
causes
it is
on
such
a
small
little inconvenience.
A
scale
dime
NEXT
ON
is
disdain
given
to
is
the
American
rather
for
gratitude,
than
folly
your
and
it
you
treble
is
when
they
market
the
aside
the
"Cornells
my
joy
of
a
holiday
of
given
that
rate
And
rudeness.
pratique"
in
if
;
the
Paris.
scorn
French
double
at
have
they
I
now
and
do,
you
will
abroad
have
give
receive
will
ignorance
often
not
scale
you
hints
Tip
Do
Americans
Most
custom.
rule.
English
or
the
people.
good
a
few
while
were
French
by
me
little,
and
on
These
coppers.
nickle
the
satisfaction,
give
to
seems
135
occasions,
most
on
generous
NOTHING
TO
can
turn
tell
or
countered
en-
set
to
CHAPTER
THE
JOYS
LOUVRE,
THE
ELLE,
LUXEMBOURG,
MARKETS
WHEN
TO
THERETO,
TEA
MEMORANDUM
YES,
for
to
in
rather
in
or
may
with
the
down
as
"
near
L'lle
it
was
joys
of
AT
Rue
LUTE
ABSO-
EXCURSION
END
IT
OF
stores,
Notre
de la Cite
town
Dame.
Caesar.
136
the
up
dictates
ing
entranc-
any
Choose
wane.
Rue
the
Avenue
but
That
the
be
cording
city ac-
fancy
la
de
others
those
part
time
Paix
1'Opera,
section
is the oldest
in
of
the
Honore,
to
not
guide books, but
Follow
avenues,
ing
accord-
and
are
its charms
St.
a
AND
THE
THE
Paris
where
tempt.
the
of
routine
its famous
the
or
the
until
only
not
CHALET
THE
wandering
street
AND
RIVEE
painstaking study
a
to
eyes
CLOUD,
experience these
our
found
IN
MEMORIES
VERSAILLES
"
IT;
CHAP-
EXPENSES.
OF
now
ST.
SEEING
OF
WITH
TRAGIC
OF
TOMB,
STE.
DAME,
BOULEVARDS
THERE,
NECESSITY
NAPOLEON'S
NOTRE
PRISON
AND
GO
SEE;
TO
CONCIERGERIE"
THE
THE
"
WHAT
PARIS;
OF
XIV
known
of Paris
of
Julius
138
How
for hours
;
VISIT
TO
there
be miles of
to
seem
EUROPE
upon
the
upon
the gardens and
upon
the Trianons, in the smaller
walls.
the young
the
at
Millions
of
joys
period when
almost
Marie
queen,
been
spent
much
as
more
of which
Antoinette, played
brief
life in that
peasant
she
have
pictures
ignorant of the coming
was
revolution.
shall I say
What
the
places that
course?
omit
of Paris
visits
one
Could
itself
as
the
to
be
statelyNotre
the
gem
shadow
prison
of
Roland,
Danton,
and
Marie
at
Dame
island,or that
under
found
Sainte
the
such
Desmoulins,
To
Madame
Robespierre
all held prisoners
were
sightsas these
appreciatedif they
Chapelle,
"
tragic memories!
Antoinette
its
on
Conciergerie
here, and their cells may
But
Luxembourg,
standing apart
of
that
picturesand
the
of gems,
Paris
to
Louvre,
splendid collection of modern
statues
of
matter
a
anybody, going
Napoleon's Tomb,
of
and
"
be
can
are
this end, take
to-day.
seen
only be
seen
many
as
perly
pro-
ludes.
inter-
rambles,
NEXT
ON
NOTHING
TO
Parisian rambles; it is
Paris
of
birds
famous.
are
can
be
the
Madeleine.
seen
had
city,such is
fresh,sweet
the
first time above
certain
set
feels
I
sense
circular
This
of the
forth.
It is
an
for
so
the
out
with-
lously
marvel-
great
paved
balustrade
in the
Picture,
a
altar
flooded
Beneath
way.
with
in the niche.
the windows
the marble
"
of Napoleon
of awe?
beyond this
over
in the
scent
stand
wonder,
the tomb
golden lightfrom
Look
though
as
"
"
hallway,a circular,marble
centre,
and
outside
day
a
pass
strengthof the
one,
any
to
go
flowers
Friday
or
to
come
"
Does
stance
in-
blossoms.
"
a
Tuesday
It almost
the country
For
mosphere
at-
picturesquegathering
A
any
of
those
markets;
great
felt.
be
early mornings and
rise in the
the
that the
only SO
can
1139
it,in
a
phagus
sarcocrypt, stands a tremendous
block of granite.
hewn
out of a single
is the actual
Twelve
tomb
of
"
poral."
the little Cor-
giganticfiguresof Victory
bearing as trophiesthe
battle
flagstaken bj;
How
140
VISIT
TO
EUROPE
sia,
Napoleon from Austria, England and Rusgive a dramatic touch to what might
have
otherwise
of the crypt
One
bears
the
other
should
a
a
have
is cast
been
two
are
sombre.
At
the door
colossi in bronze.
more
sceptre and
imperialcrown,
an
globe. (Surely the sculptor
The
added
way
doora
sword?)
from
the
taken
cannon
at
Auster-
litz.
The
unexpectednessof
the settingis most
impressive. Tradition
has it that this design was
determined
upon
that the highestin the world
should be
so
compelled to bow their heads before the
of France's
tomb
without
and
on
other
the
Paris
eve
It
In the
was
yard
court-
pyramid of flags
burnt
trophiesof Napoleon were
of the enteringof the allies into
in order
of Alexander
a
great
that such
cherished
sions
posses-
fall into alien hands.
and
Comrade
the
hero.
that
might not
at
and
strangeness
I crossed
III. and
the wide
turned
to
bridge
look
back
libera
gilded tomb, feelingthat further dewould
sightseeing
The
Place
de la
be
a
climax.
kind of anti-
Concorde, rightly
ON
NEXT
NOTHING
141
the finest spaces
before
In one
us.
in all the
of
judged
one
world,
lay
the
stretched
TO
wide
of
avenue
direction
the
Champs
Elysees; at the upper end stood the Arc de
Triomphe, the settingsun crowning its glory.
and faced the gardens of the
We
turned
Tuilleries. It was
to this palace (two wings
of which are
all that remain) that Louis
XVI.
was
brought by a mob to be installed
in mockery. It was
here, too, that Napoleon
lived
with Josephine, and
the
Empress
Eugenie learnt that she must fly.
Shut your
eyes
in this Place
de
was
guillotine
for
a
la
moment
Concorde.
die away
instead the click of the
of
women
they watch
the very
people have
Place
la Concorde
"
littlewindow
as
many
you
may
hear
of
as
It is terribly,
literally
true, that
thousand
the
and
of the victims fall into
gutters have
de
the
Here
knittingneedles
the Foubourg St. Antoine
the heads
the basket.
stand
you
Let the whirr of the
erected.
ceaseless wheels
the
as
more
run
Two
with blood.
faced
death
on
the
by looking through
of the guillotine.Almost
were
trampled to death,
"
How
14.2
in the
same
panic
at
VISIT
TO
space,
the
the occasion of
on
time
of the
Dauphin of France
What
had
stories could
Marie
the
stones
of
German
"
marriage
to
speech! Tales
here
EUROPE
Paris
.
as
but has
the
soldiers
Russian
they
camped
en-
and
and
pestilence.
Ah, there is black tragedy in
well as glitter.Hardly a street
.
some
such
memories.
The
realisation of it oppressedComrade,
crossed
of
tell if
English. Tales, too, of famine
.
wild
Antionette.
alien
and
a
the Rue
to
with
sudden
and
de Rivoli to distract
we
selves
our-
windows, completed the
Kardomah
the Louvre,
near
store
by tea at
in
caught the last airs of a militaryconcert
the park, and then crossed the river to rummage
cure
among
the book
relics that
edge
bridges and
are
stalls and
the
such
banks
a
cases
between
of
the
feature of Parisian
life.
fast in
Nights still
faster. What
of the placethat
is the charm
despitewell laid morning plans, nightfall
will find half unaccomplished? With
a
Days
go
Paris.
NEXT
ON
it should
littleenergy
the Eiffel Tower,
hear
factories,
in
at
a
after
is
a
at
and
possibleto climb
the Sevres porcelain
the Madeleine, drop
wind
drive in the Bois de
The
not.
143
be
visit
mass
museum
a
from
NOTHING
TO
Boulogne.
alone
monuments
the opera,
at
up
But it
distract you
plan. What other cityin
the world
of
show
an
can
equal number
impossibleto pass? But then Paris
groups
is certainly
a
stage-like
city. It is built for
show
laid out and planned ruthlessly,
and
settled
any
"
at
the
of many
cost
I have
said the
days. The
drama
The
the
at
seen
nightsflyfaster than the
whole
the boulevards.
it is
millions.
wealth
Ambassadeurs."
walk
the streets,
sits until
coffee
The
is the
tragedy,in those who
for the audience
actors
that
long past midnight,drinkingblack
the crowded
at
the
on
which
among
on
of
glitter
and
cafes chantants
Champs Elysees,chief
"
of life passes
littletables
on
the side
walks.
"
Does
"
any
plansfor
a
one
"
"
"
leave Paris without
speedy return?
It is
so
making
easy
to
How
144
difficult
say
it
and
yet it sounds
so
"
there
VISIT
TO
had
On
our
we
heard
we
done
in
"
the
the
bribe
immediate
an
was
postponed.
had
concluded
from
to
the
linger
gather strength for
days in the
ney
jourI offered
ing
pack-
past, and
few
a
the
on
that
all
it could
flyingfast.
was
Barbizon
at
From
Riviera, therefore,
to
and
rest
strenuous
more
city in
brilliant
most
looks
one
time
hurry,
a
return
decided
when
opportunity
break
was
induce
to
Fontainebleau
be
"
to
This
again."
the
departure for the South.
and
not
find
to
simple
Comrade
we
EUROPE
France
"
surface, forgets the
ignores the temperament
that may
bring tragedy again.
MEMORANDUM
Room
three
at
Breakfast
(one
Dejeuners
Dinners
Extras,
francs
a
franc
(usually
(four
OF
at
night
EXPENSE.
(seven
nights)
average)
one
two
fares, entrances,
franc
and
4.20
1.40
fifty)
francs, three
tips
$
at
2.10
five
personal
francs)
4.60
6.36
$18.66
How
146
shut
cries, heavy shades
few
the
covered
herbs
hermeticallysealed.
inscribed
with
"
open,
meant
used
that
shrugs
English has
Our
of
language
not
worst
vertently
inad-
we
received
was
smiles
those
It is not
summertime.
are
of
love
warmth
fairer
place
who
be
can
height
at
the
once
no
Picture
summer.
to
and
even
light
in the
yourself a
tinycityof white palacesbuilt on a high
which
juts out into the Mediterranean
is fenced
off from
the barrier
Have
"
such
"
continentals
the
in
maining
re-
and the greatest spenders.
linguists
For
there
it
save
English speaking races
The
If
yet."
come
few
the
nothing.
south
find their way
been
English spoken here,"
"
at, for few
be wondered
to
fragrant
shops seemed
best
uncomprehending
and
brilliant
had
that
rugs
windows
the
on
pine and
The
the floors.
left upon
the
out
of
branches
and
sunlight,
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
of the
you
a
wicked
the
rest
Alpes
heard
"
and
of the world
by
Maritimes.
that
place?
rock
Monte
Without
Carlo
doubt
is
it
NEXT
ON
be.
must
the great
and
with
are
order
have
vast
stayed
tables,to the
their
desires
tell you
Goddess
the
of 400
suicides
annual
an
long
too
that
end
above
all
restingplacebeneath
nothing
fluke
"
of
can
on
the
the
a
grave
hill,or
last
a
of the Mediterranean
waters
tragicside
It
the
down
need
you
nothing unless by
circumstances.
to
administration
annuallyfind
of this
see
back
go
things to keep
in the suicides' cemetery
baize
green
they may
The
of those who
But
the
at
who
those
given to
sums
countries.
own
numbers
see
women
paid in
subsidyreachinginto six figures,
that tragic tales may
be suppressed;
of other
and
place,
in their blood.
of
in the littleprincipality;
year
is
season,
and
worship
People will
Chance.
press
who
the
men
recklessness
those
147
size of the
majority are
spice of
a
They
population,in
consideringthe
enormous,
a
Its
NOTHING
TO
is
all
some
buried
deeply. Forget, then, that it is there, and
here offered to you in
take the joys that are
generous
profusion.
Never
was
place for fetes I Especiallyif you
such
are
a
lucky
148
How
enough
to
catch
to
Ask
and
season
the
beginning or
stay
long enough
at
can
"
or
nothing of the religiousand
at
confetti,to
of
say
commemorative
sometimes
are
night,and
unique
are
least in the eyes of all who
at
blase.
not
The
Casino, of
majority.
of
course,
It stands
in the
known
Plain
of the
dead
of their kind,
are
that
scenes
life.
half
will miss
you
these batttles of flowers,and
processions;
of
Notes," issued
Carlo
Monte
Metropole,
enacted
kinds
glimpse of both
a
for the
the
by
either
arrive
of the
end
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
is
the
on
what
attracts
plateau of
"
days of the Saracens
the Robbers," and
as
the
rock
The
is visible from
afar.
Present
your
af the bureau
card
first hall, fillin the form
to
The
you
"
and
the magic
fee
entrance
however,
correctness
doubt, when
that will be given
doors
is nil.
of
one
your
for
a
swing
This
open.
"billet,"
each
day
until the
behaviour
is
beyond
be renewed
must
in the
longer period will be
granted,though always upon
the understand-
NEXT
ON
stated
without
and
The
be withdrawn
it may
ing that
NOTHING
TO
moment,
any
reason.
gives admission
ticket
same
at
149
to
the
splendidly equipped writing and reading
(wherein are gathered newspapers
rooms,
and
almost
from
every civilised country,)
also to all the concerts
specials."
except the
"
Let
give
me
lose the charm
Don't
warning.
be
first impression may
the
Casino
of what
a
direct
to
by going
arrive
unless, by chance, you
"
of
emphatic word
one
you
after dark.
morning rather in Old Monaco
the gardens on the edge of the rock
Spend
"
in
or
the
in the
the
sun
flooded
Europe.
marble
of
one
end
It
the
the
afternoon
and
or
orange
rest
on
ing'
of the Casino, listen-
best
in the
upper
kiosk
gay
terrace
You
else under
trees.
in
orchestras
whisperinggallery.
the cafe tables
palms
terrace
plays
of
the
In
girl.
to
other
palace of the Grimaldi
quite recently,reigned an
ancient
wherein, until
American
"
the
When
at
sit at
shade
the
the
the
from
may
all
of
sun
How
150
VISIT
TO
EUROPE
droops behind the Tete-de-Chien
Alpes
famous
de
to
purple,go
restaurants
Metropole
if the
demon
caught you,
Prince
and
de
at
one
not
that
or
de
nearby
1'Europe.
the
and
the
the Casino.
The
halls
and
of those who
waits
In the
the
resort
on
the
of ruined
ill afford
can
to
luck
orange
...
disillusion
seem
Hotel
"
Galles, Windsor,
to
of the
yet
of the lesser lights the
hostelrythe Hotel
Then
when
night has fallen
bringing fireflies sparkle in
go
any
has
extravagance
modest
groves,
at
(if it be open) Giro's,
the Gallerie Charles,or,
upon
of
dine
please. The
you
Paris, the Grand
the
to
you
and tintsthe
light
day-
threshold.
gamblers
lose.
At
night tragedy is forgotten,all is glitterand
froth
play runs high as the hours go on.
With
of excitement
a
we
growing sense
the
passed among
chattering, gorgeous
in the nobly proportioned Atrium.
groups
Vague sentences
concerning the place danced
brain
The
through our
plague spot of
the Siren of the World
Europe "...
"
"
"
"
.
.
.
half remembered
fragments of forgot-
NEXT
ON
tales recurred
ten
to
who
had
And
everythingseemed
"
The
lost wealth, honor
Who
Man
i.,
.
It
the hour
was
whole
when
It
not
the
to
The
above
the
yet
more
the
great
those in
of
the
advantage,
silken,the pictures
most
the
and
us,
the tables.
delicate,the leather
in tone
of
many
richness
to
.
Monte
at
and
.
tune
behind
in
shown
hangings seem
mellow
more
when
the
more
life.
overhead
is best
scene
and
swung
heavy swinging lamps
others
.
Those
chandeliers
crown-like
of
Casino.
ablaze.
lights were
the
doors
the
in
and
the Bank
.
were
we
set
Broke
The
Carlo!
and
great
men
...
fortunes
had
151
Stories of
us.
who
won
NOTHING
TO
couches
inlaid floor
highlypolished.
was
quietin these magnificenthalls,but
quiet. Tension
too
later,usuallyin the
where
trente-et
and
further
strain
red-hung
takes the
quarante
come
room
place of
roulette.
Here
from
a
walking
and
there
gay
group
about.
came
of
Echoes
a
rippleof laughter
friends.
of
Some
are
light badinage
How
i$2
reach
Others
us.
"
the whirl
"
the
ball
of the
watching the players
revolvingroulette wheel
of
the
silver to
little white
the
impassive croupiers
in the lost money
rake
EUROPE
are
movements
or
"
VISIT
TO
and
they
as
gold
out
pay
ivory
and
the winners.
Footmen
in blue
silver liveries pass
and
this
about, picking up
lady's handkerchief,
of dropped
gathering together a handful
coins for another, or searchingunder a table
for
unfortunate's
some
Disconnected
of
fragments
unknown
tongues
air.
float
"
The
Mediterranean
the
on
windows
are
the
overpowers
and
fumed
per-
towards
the
rhythm
"
of the
murmur
odd,
warm
but the
open,
guages
lan-
many
French, Spanish, Italian
"
music
last louis.
of
tide-
less sea."
Comrade
and
watched
and
the
scene
amazement.
evening dress,
passed
I sat
and
in
some
on
luxurious
a
before
Some
wore
sparklingwith jewels.
were
serge.
Others
est
inter-
with
us
men
trailingsilks,their
couch
bare
wore
in
Women
throats
tailor-
How
154
VISIT
T0
obtrusive man,
who, watch in hand, had been
behind
standing
the
caught him by the
turn!
this
run
.
I"
he
them
The
fuls,and, amid
players who
habitual
luck
from
"He
will
time
to
to
Between
in hand-
see
a
the
of
run
departure,the
two
croupier
one
glance
significant
a
snatch.
to
train
sprang
laugh.
back," said
come
the few
up
we
room.
with
another
raked
the
it if
The
other
hate
interrupted by
rushed
other
an-
of regret from
chorus
a
"
the money
they gathered up
Not
.
cried.
excited
an
.
only just do
can
second
"
shoulder.
We
feet with
his
to
leading player, now
in four minutes."
goes
EUROPE
coins the
"He
boy
has
had
had
had
not
the
he
as
ner's
begin-
luck."
the
As
night wore
of
deeplythe spirit
for
us
a
and
hero?
who
the
by,
laughter. Which
he
be
caught yet
Monte
of
the
of the
was
ourselves
fair
the
among
queens
more
Carlo
found
We
heroine
floated
Should
we
it all.
great stage.
searching for
women
on
of
men
lightness
the
was
Antipodes
"
or
NEXT
ON
the
from
West
or
"
'155
the
from
Briton
a
Sea?"
North
the
in
island
"little
NOTHING
iro
it
or
this
the
Spanish
grandee,
Russian
grand
slopes,
Siberian
of
the
Great
given
duke,
White
at
the
end
in
king
at
mufti,
exile
an
once
favorite
a
now
Was
piece?
that
the
on
court
Tzar?
of
Memorandum
(Note.
be
the
of
villain
the
And
.
.
.
of
the
next
expenses
chapter.)
will
CHAPTER
ON
D'AZUR"
COTE
THE
TOURS,
AND
A
ITALY"
OUR
CASTING
has
According
have
"
"
might
for
we
of
may
will have
I have
and
the
the
"
lasted
put
accounts.
foot
set
of
number
the
way
a
like
upon
thirteen
down
the
156
on
pressio
im-
new
write
If I measured
flown
has
time
addition
In
spent
were
number
must
of
Exclusive
the
the
and
sixty-sixdays
days."
return.
spend
of
up
first
we
"hours."
put
journey
LONDON
TO
close
a
sixty-sixdays, fourteen
these
the
well
INTO
received, I should
have
by the
space
to
calendar
since
instead
years
RETURN
casting
Judging by
we
the
the
the
to
elapsed
Europe.
drawing
for
come
BORDER
EXPENSES.
OF
is
holiday
time
ACCOUNTS"
OF
WALKING
THE
OVER
NIVALS
CAR-
THE
AND
MOUNTAIN
EXCURSION
AN
MEMORANDUM
"TOTAL
NICE,
MENTONE,
VILLAGES,
FISHING
"
XVI
Riviera,
our
be
the
I
to
on
lowed
altime
holiday
weeks.
sums
I have
spent,
NEXT
ON
I still have
and
from
for
the
I
for
the
the actual
fares
another
decide
England
for
five
According
to
spending,
a
day
extra
the
rate
should
we
don.
in Lon-
so
which
at
"
Providence
or
funds
our
if need
month
England
to
vanish
well
might
an
here
the
to
incidental
paid, thank
are
spend
to
been
last
from
from
route
en
aside
set
Thirty-eightdollars
States, something
expenses
"
fare
hand
in
trip. What
European
this?
to
return
United
I
original $300
add
157
dollars
seventy
this wonderful
must
NOTHING
TO
have
we
might almost
be.
Alas!
Time
...
is passingfast.
"
"
Monte
spend
"
Carlo
as
is
much
or
"
place
a
as
little
Then, too, pricesvary
the
of year.
time
furnished
rent
at
There
in
where
as
"
or
is
an
offered
you
La
four
can
please.
to
thousand
Saison," for
flat that five dollars
another
you
greatlyaccording
Three
francs will be asked
"
a
week
will
period.
immense
in
Monte
varietyof
Carlo.
a
dation
accommo-
Pensions
1
58
How
along the
Boulevard
board
good
francs
hotels
for
had
ten
for
such
"
season
sometimes
possible,not
for
When
exploring,in
I had
steps
du
come
the
that
the
we
had
from
Midway
a
upon
vine
bearded
old
arbor
Frenchman
sittingat dejeuner. The
The
hill
dropped
away
narrow
cent
reminis-
Italy owned
ask
high gateway
covered
vard
Boule-
a
name
Desiring to
a
stone
cobble-
the
was
its
period when
opened
rade
Riviera, Comof
flight
a
leading down
shelf.
mountain
tion,
sec-
light
firstecstasy of de-
our
flagged corridor-like road,
of
that
as
healthy.
so
upon
Moulin.
are
Casino
Condamine;
being actuallyon
and
week
a
they
period.
a
"
be
can
francs
near
is not
being lower,
pensive
inex-
that time
as
the
down
rooms
ten
near
live
to
the
FEurope
Furnished
"
eight
or
seven
De
as
and
provide
live at
only obtainable
It is well
at
Moulin
could
five,seven
of the
out
du
You
twelve.
or
EUROPE
lodging for
and
day.
a
VISIT
TO
and
and
where
questions
so
in terrace
was
come
white
a
his wife
view
this
were
superb.
after
ter-
ON
NEXT
of orange
race
trees
roofs
the red
seemed
Corsica,
Old
Monaco
cast
To
the left
of
stretch
the horizon.
faint line upon
a
out
prominence by
the
Were
"
not
We
let
for
short
a
tiny kitchen
francs
a
cheaper.
!"
one
went
"
when
they
our
to
market
to
seven
slightly
certainlywould,
the mornings, as
meals
a
ever
will last for-
It
utilised the
restaurant
cost
was
money
in
with
Mine,
was
after
usually
not
were
Comrade's
Why,
little
spacioushotel?
a
and
difficulty
attached,
the French, and
not
with
laughed.
we
in
period.
week.
quaint
preferableto
infinitely
coaxing, for
much
this
in
obtained
them
secured
Italynear-by.
Alpes.
spur-like
rooms
be
might
Spain.
long juttingpromontory
Masson"
Maison
what
the
rose
us
us,
ness
the dim-
stretchingunto
ranges
was
right of
the
to
of Cap Matin, the blue line of
Behind
were
mered
Beyond, glimshimmering sea,
stood
the
vines; below,
noticeable.
into yet greater
of
and
159
houses, but they
wide
with
NOTHING
of hotels and
hardly
the
TO
if
do
tinykitchen, but
must
be
paid for.
160
How
in that direction
Prices
One
to
dinner
and
"
resolved
we
chef
of every
Living in
made
to
suffice
five would
even
Six times
enforced.
with
of
firstweek
The
week
second
climbing twice
by
or
much
could be spent
to
on
Laghet.
thousands
us
franca,
the
the
"
a
came
second
miracle
each
could
we
afield,
further
foot
on
once
path, a second
Cremaillere," then
deserted
the
monastery
year.
of
order
shrine
interestingold
in
hardly
tiny principality.
Turbie
This, until
in that
a
stay
stair-like
of
was
saw
easily,seven
rambled
La
to
means
rambled
of
be
could
week
a
like.
you
strict economy
the
we
along the mountain
time
as
place
a
were
our
from
ourselves
tear
as
is
little trouble.
as
The
little
as
all expenses
cover
for
ten
work
the handi-
Carlo
dollars
ten
rooms
two
place.
Monte
spend
can
you
high.
to
test
to
in the
said that
I have
where
dejeuner, four
for
three
fiftyto
somewhat
are
fiftyfor breakfast,
franc
one
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
which
to
Another
day
Villa-
town
Eze,
eyrie-like
pulsion,
ex-
a
third
162
How
behind
valley. Look
depths of
a
there
range
are
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
and
of
range
mountains
shaded, according to the
(many
Switzerland.
towards
stretchingout
adds
but
barrenness
strange
and
you,
hour)
The
the
to
weird
effect.
is
memory
morning swim,
bushes
thicklyupon
of
us
upon
climbed
had
Cap
books
the
pines on
to
do
neither
is
the rosemary
that
so
grow
her sister
pencil
alley-like
narrow
of
has it that
was
villages,
the summit
nor
camera
in
strength) because
earthquakeswere
Tradition
present
selves
flung our-
togetherby archways (on the
principlethat union
ence.
a
experiencescame
curious
justiceto the
streets, bound
the past
and
had
entirelyunexpectedly. We
to
Rocquebruna and its quaintness
captivatedus;
seemed
herbs
and
my
Matin.
most
our
long in
scramble
a
took
aromatic
and
One
we
under
down
after
when
one
will live
that
day
Another
frequentoccur-
Rocquebruna, like
located
originally
of the mountain
and
on
up-
that her
comparativelylowly positionis
due
NEXT
ON
the effects of
to
that
Be
very
hot
of these disturbances.
one
it may,
as
visit
our
day and
doors
sounded, the great
made
was
of
armed
to
men
burst
were
a
on
the church
entered
we
Suddenly, the tramp
rest.
163
NOTHING
TO
open
hastilyforward as some
soldiers,with a prisoner bearing a heavy
in their midst burst into the tranquillity.
cross
had
all unknowingly stumbled
We
a
upon
passion play. Perhaps, if we had come
posely,
purand
priestscame
should
we
and
church
it was
How
shopping
when
in silence and
each
other
excursion
brought with
us
in the
with
picturesquecasinos
Nice
was
hotels,
a
wish
and
a
larger city. We
buildings
splendid promenade
citydestitute
only for those who
they
Comrade
of fine
memories
great
"
when
returning from
on
and
a
?
"
Nice
at
Carlo
Monte
at
a
left the
we
"
people stay
can
in such
with bent heads.
.
"
could live
asked
it was,
As
"
I
the tawdriness
seen
ineffectiveness unavoidable
situation.
"
have
on
piers,but
of charm.
to
to
Nice
us,
is
spend their days
How
164
u
in carriages.
of
VISIT
TO
Mentone
it," declared
remembered
of
mention
thousands
it
the
EUROPE
is worth
I
had
seeking health.
been
the
by
up
the
had
photographs
the
probably
of
be,"
asked
"
a
other
its
place?
houses
and
on
"
out
the
as
stood
we
ground
as
Beneath
orange
old
the
we
Does
On
had
it
this
of the
"
not
the
derful,
won-
extreme
there
Can
in the
tery,
tinyceme-
beautiful
in any
red roofed
the
golden
trees, behind
sound
of
Italy
to
"
a
fruit
it,
glorious
day
same
walked
"
near
thing so
a
it,were
groves,
tray
por-
town
mountains, before, the
sparkling sea.
walked!
dozen
A
"
the
account
already ripening upon
rose
Gorbio.
surroundings.
as
burial
chanted
en-
proved inadequate to
stands
poverty
well
be obtained
to
heterogeneous mass
a
which
we
the
the
quarter, and
quaintness of
clusteringin
church
of
to
gone
delightedby
gloriousviews
valley
all
throng the
had
We
kept English and American
I suddenly
omitted
which
to
resort
by train,had
and
Comrade,
that
sand
thou-
a
feat?
ploration
ex-
yea,
But
ON
it is not
far
stand
Via
by the
and
gorge
meet.
Gruesome
Pont
St. Louis.
Monte
have
victims
of
governments
severed
discussions
in
of
that
choose
this
this
ions
occas-
on
it
as
the
world, and
France
Italy and
responsible
was
lay with the
the bodies
the
country and
one
silent
countries
told
which
for the burials when
heads
the
diplomatic relations
to
as
the
two
are
departure from
nearly
over
here
by
sensation
across
It is said
Carlo's
site of their
that the
bridge
tales
built
curious
a
feel that
to
165
Corniche
It is
the
upon
NOTHING
TO
Napoleon.
great
to
NEXT
feet in
other
an-
1
"
And
We
whether
we
mail
up
the
commissions
one
not
us.
and
in
friends
do
then
packed regretfully,
last
gloriousday
in
as
ways
another
for
to
week
its sake
Paris, but the
hosts
What
time
our
"
grant
week
"
fled
two
Riviera
further
"
have
torn
should
decided
"
days
were
this wondrous
give
we
the
now
is up.
to
"
"
send !
"
of
And
last
so
sallied forth for
Italy. We
had
in-
1
66
How
tended
to
far
as
go
the
Bordigera, but
timigliacaught
within
VISIT
TO
San
as
frontier
Remo
or
of
Ven-
town
Its memory
us.
Italian
me.
EUROPE
is yet keen
wonder-faced
types,
children, picturesque brigandish soldiers
with
cascades
of
shimmering
their
fallingover
broad
shoulders,
villas, speaking of
shuttered
feathers
cocks
green
wealth, the
squalor of the native Italian section and the
of that
wonder
of the
And
the
to
train
the
whirled
homeward
catch
into
a
Previously spent
Second
of
a
look
last
fleetingglimpse
tunnel.
of
and
....
In truth
we
are
bound.
MEMORANDUM
port
the valley
speeds! We
grinning devils of the Casino
are
up
Royale.
now
upward
magnificentview
in
OF
TOTAL
EXPENSE
Europe, including fare
$214.58
embarkation
half of return
from
38.00
ticket
$252.58
RIVIERA
Room,
fifteen nights
LIVING
EXPENSES
:
$
3.50
NEXT
ON
dejeuners
Dinners,
and
meals
extravagant
(with
breakfasts
and
coffees
few
a
167
NOTHING
TO
some
the
on
Terrace)
Tips,
20.00
for
fares
side
general
and
excursions
4.65
incidentals
$
$28073
Total
In
hand
So,
have
emergencies
for
had
The
"
for
hundred
average
cents
the
on
under
well
a
eighty-two
28.15
1
of
way.
$300
our
and
cost
homeward
nine
each,
apiece,
glorious
two
.$
dollars
19.27
we
days
and
!
CHAPTER
AN
UNEXPECTED
WINDFALL"
MANY
OF
"PERSONALLY
WILD
POSSIBILITIES
CONDUCTED"
CLOTHES
REQUISITE
LAND
THE
XVII
OF
FOR
AND
Comrade
each
dollars
and
could
Where
in
us
carry
dropped!
this
not
in
letter
dred
hun-
A
of
leave
extended
TO
WAY.
NOR-
AT
dollars!
hundred
A
amazement.
have
to
TO
JOURNEY
contemplated the
I
and
AS
ARRIVAL
SUN"
of the skies it seemed
OUT
HINTS
COMFORTABLE
A
CUSSION
DIS-
SUPPLEMENTARY
A
CRUISE"
MIDNIGHT
THE
DESIRES, MUCH
sence.
ab-
pounds
twenty
economical
wonderful,
Europe?
Silently
trunks
and
of
A
wonder
various
dollars!
Then
to
ransack
that
should
the
ters
coun-
agencies.
There
whither
window
new
half-packed
our
tourist
spend it, and
travel.
What
sallied forth
hundred
to
way
the
deserted
we
but
was
way
the
should
we
way
of
go?
we
open
one
in
our
gallery of impressions?
"Italy?"
said
Comrade
168
faintly,as
we
How
170
"
Should
by the aid of
it
ness,"
should
or
Time
"
Water,"
long past,
that we,
enough
The
it was
and
.
.
wonder
of the
memory
'
other
no
way
of
But
to
unless
entire
an
see
it
paid
the
travel
is
one
yacht there
Norwegian
why
reason
of
has swamped
Norway
combination
economy
so
.
Viking,"but
a
membrance
re-
trust,
on
of those who
band
charter
to
And
mind.
personallyconducted."
The
go
exchange for tickets in
dollar bills in
Fjords.
we
rapturings,
vague
taking all
the hitherto scorned
seems
Should
decided, dim
Comrade
so
fell about
rich
looked
We
unknown.
her
influencing
"
cute-
certain,language,
of friends
our
"
water?
or
of
out
in it, and
national
hesitated.
and
had
we
as
ducted?"
"personally con-
go
customs,
another
land
by
we
short,money
was
coinage and
at one
Norway
places? Land
other
conquer
"
do
we
"done"
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
we
descended
I remember
Under
upon
vaguely that
of convenience
cash.
all
"
of dates
Polytech-
ON
nic
"
our
NEXT
guidance
NOTHING
TO
promised
were
we
171
for
most
money.
A
thirteen
for nine
"
day
"
Poly
cruise
guineas,excursions
Then
fare
the
in addition.
"2.10
cost
Grimbsy
to
be had
can
be
must
considered, incidental charges,tips,steamer
chair
hire,etc.
brows,
as
crowded
So
calculated,with knitted
we
made
we
London
our
the
to
streets
along the
way
Polytechnic
headquarters.
Yes, it was
fact that
as
all the
Some
taken.
read, except for the
had
we
nine
guinea
been booked
had
berths
a
were
in advance
year
!
compromised the
We
the extravagance
yet unsold
pockets. We
What
What
we
we
selectingthe
the upper
upon
home
danced
of
to
pack
with
should
with
have
best
cabin
almost
deck, and
the tickets in
sailed in three
took
by committing
matter
us
taken
our
days' time.
little.
matters
is of the
most
utter-
importance.
It sounds
shall I wear?"
rather
the
prosaic to
moment
"What
say
such
a
tour
is
How
172
VISIT
TO
EUROPE
mooted, but after all,much
of the cruise
The
depends
that
worn
in
and
merely
say
England
"
add
one's clothes.
upon
"
guide books
a
of the comfort
similar
:
"
is all that is necessary
mackintosh
is advisable."
maddeningly indefinite!
How
clothingto
for
Now
actness
ex-
and truth.
Take
with
weight
complete
a
you
clothing,for
summer
valleysthe
heat
and
a
a
that will
rug
mackintosh
beneath
a
water
these
With
a
overcoat
blast,and
qualitythat
five hours
will
pair
stout
waterproof
not
boots
to
affect it.
of
boots,
the
knee,
a
tarpaulinhat,
pair of dancing slippers,
that will
cap
of
wegian
Nor-
the
keenest
spout
things, a
leggings,or
things,an
defy the
of such
in
light
excessive,but take
is
also the thickest of thick
of
set
a
not
kind, shady, but
and
an
drives
are
in
head
off,straw
not
too
good,
alpine stock, you
comfortable
The
blow
gear
an
brella
um-
will be thoroughly
Norway.
cold, the walks
hot.
valleys are sheltered, the mountain
exposed, and it is always either very
The
passes
sunny,
ON
NEXT
raining
or
is
tour
precipitately.
not
one
if
Above
will
films.
want
NOTHING
TO
upon
scantily
all,
untold
if
173
A
which
you
Norwegian
can
go
fortably,
com-
equipped.
you
are
dollars
a
fiend
camera
worth
of
plates
you
or
CHAPTER
GLIMPSES
FIRST
BUKEN
FJORD
EUROPE
a
Sea
it
these
in their
of
As
also
Leave
the
be
GYPSY
IN
FIRE
have
more
is
roar
to
well
the
some
glass-like
hours
pass
and
two
be
spent
in
sleep.
be
endured
the
even
that
like
night
at
will
have
been
can
are
too,
tion
reputa-
Norwegian
ere
waters
Grimbsy
may
dread
a
remembered
journey
Norway
for
THE
"
FlELDS
THE
if it
But
waking hours
to
when
crossed
Northern
Whatsoever
brief
be
placidity. Then
swiftly.
thirds
rather
must
lion, it must
times
has
reached.
are
GLEN
SNOW
ABOUT
SUN-
AT
SCRAMBLES.
North
shores
FINEST
THE
OF
CLIFFS,
"
ANCHORAGE
DECKED
GATHERINGS
AND
and
OUR
"
THE
"
GLACIER
FLOWER
MERRY
"
WALKS
THE
LAKES
ONE
"
WONDERS
BONDHUS
NORWEGIAN
FOGLEFOND
"
THE
"
AND
A
"
NORWEGIAN
OF
MOUNTAINS
DAL
XVIII
weakest
"
in the
will declare
worth
while
"
sighted.
fortunate
rejoice in the brine
in the
174
individuals
air, watch
they
for
a
NEXT
ON
porpoise
or
whale,
a
NOTHING
TO
the
envy
fellow
passengers
for the bugle that
Then
line
the smooth
across
Fjord, later,
the
narrow,
clear
all
summons
river-like
mountains
from
the
take
morning
bare, jagged, ponderous
mountains,
edge and
with
shades, here, the
there
vivid
a
by
there
a
waterfalls.
are
rise
Some
are
cliffs,others
the
are
water's
foliage of varying
patch of emerald,
spreading, veritable
spray,
haze.
and
deepest, darkest
huge boulder.
coast
waterways
shape
perpendicular to
blocked
dim
a
of the Buken
waters
the
as
meals!
to
First
Norway!
comes
the
and
"
gulls,
flyingsea-
depths of
listen eagerly
explore the ship, sound
their
175
broken
And
Some
green,
haps
per-
everywhere
and
leaping
cascades, white
with
magnificent Furebergfos)
(like the
others, snake-like in their sinuosity,
twisting,
turning,curving, here lost to view
deep cleft,there springing from
crag, its rain swept
worn
For
smooth
the
most
top, gleaming
down
a
a
great
silveryand
by running waters.
part, these beautiful
moun-
How
[176
tains
VISIT
TO
raisingtheir
feet above
the
to
tiny
the
"
hamlets
two
of the
The
to
to
sand
thou-
given
sheep or
habitable
on
three
fjords,are
of three
cluster
reach
crests
hardy Norwegian
"
EUROPE
over
goats, but
five houses
casionally
oc-
ledges within
waters.
est
highways,and the tinichildren seem
capable of managing a
It is a pretty sight to see
three or
boat.
from
four little maidens, ranging in age
to
seven
ten
or
Norwegian
sun-lit
some
the
fjordsare
eleven, clad in the picturesque
rowing happily up
costume,
fjord
to
pay
a
visit
or
go
to
church.
Higher and higher seem
their veil of
mist
and
the mountains
cloud
the
as
in
Buken
Fjord givesplaceto the Mauranger, and the
yacht goes steadilyon, seagulls swirling
around
us,
vividly white
against
of mountain, cliff and
Sundal, where
largervillagethan
lies
on,
of land
we
any
ground
back-
water.
anchored, proved
we
had
what
is, for Norway,
in
avalanche
an
a
racked
seen
a
yet.
a
It
flat stretch
valley,down
178
How
rushing
waters,
from
by huge
hurled
in
VISIT
TO
EUROPE
delicate
grow
of the
the cold winds
which
boulders
from
above
by
tered
ferns, shel-
fields,
snow
have
must
been
Titanic
some
force
prehistoric
ages.
It
gives
violence
among
pink fox
from
a
rough, naturerock, fragileblue bells
to
covered
moss
the
see
gloves springing up
hewn,
their slender
quivering on
and
swirling waters,
mosses
of peace
extraordinarysense
an
yellow,brown
and
above
stems
the
everywhere
varying
"
tall
even
of
shades
derful
won-
green,
till each
pink
"
the
dell
fairyland, planted with spraying,
shimmering ferns,and watered by a thousand
gurgling rivulets. Their ripple is audible
of the waters
which
through the roar
even
in Norway.
ceases
hardly ever
rier
Then, suddenly,a wide flungnatural bar-
looks
like
of rock curbs the torrent,
suddenness
of
it
and
hand
the restless fever
We
ceases.
scramble
fairyland,
and
matic
and, with dra-
among
foot in
emerge
barren
league to
and
moil
tur-
from
the
crags,
eye
find safe pas-
ON
and
sage,
smooth
NEXT
beside
pause
and
of
the
Foglefond
fields in
Even
the
checked
the
fantastic
by
9
finest
arm
snow-
stretch I
mile
fell silent and
the
as
looked
back
of the mountains
with
we
in
its
forward
then
immovability,
It is almost
lightglowed
as
if
beneath
a
of
the
ous,
tremend-
the great
mass!
was
though
as
from
downward
of
positively
depth of the blueness
great crevices.
It
the
and
oars
Glacier, weird
frozen
of
fjord beyond,
in the
foaming
incipient flirtations
grey-green
azure
40
a
the blue haze
the
to
one
plied their
towards
effect is
lightestchatterers
their
rowers
the
again the long white
"
Europe,
lake, so
gleams the Glacier and
it
this stretches
above
from
that the
startling. Across
179
still green
a
aloof
so
beneath
waters
NOTHING
TO
a
the
the mountains
to
grip of the Great
Ice
mighty river had leapt
impregnable fastness
be
caught in the fierce
King and
so
stilled into
everlastingsilence.
Then
gypsy
came
fire
to
the
drink
gay
gathering about
coffee
a
prepared by the
180
How
advance
of
guard
pocketing
of
homeward
route,
friends,
music
to
the
it
Comrade
capped
to
and
a
So
for
the
in
count
"
insistent
were
approaching!
I
took
found
new
through
to
they
do
not
it
were
might
a
days
precious
our
one
a
of
sail
tranquil
"
snap
the
evening
and
more
beguile
merry
nights
bells
the
walk
Norway
ever
and
a
officials,
of
grouping
spot.
As
to
glorious
song,
by.
seem
was
the
wonder
fled
for
the
valley
and
fresh
white
ginger-nuts
and
flecked
rose
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
well
not
get
for-
than
six
o'clock.
shots
till
midnight
CHAPTER
DOWN
RAVINES"
ROAD
AN
BLASTED
MARVEL
STUPENDOUS
VIK
OPPRESSIVE
"
excursions
of
in
its oddness
tourist
the
people.
of
scant
whims
a
is
few
score
is
the
on
WITH
ITS
of
best
Eidefjord
from
base
all the
fascinating
which
to
wonderful
It is
with
a
"
just
shop
There
of
of
two
"
of
except
picture
carved
from
the
of
them,
providing
a
moderate
catering
no
the
to
displaying
postcards
wooden
181
of
among
stores
absolutely
visitors
account
collection
tiny
wants
is
dozen
a
or
general
moderate
on
aloofness
general
world.
microscopic
the
THI
"
Norway.
and
farmhouses
for
TRAGEDY
OF
WATERFALL,
Vek)
the
itself Vik
In
SENSE
excellent
an
one
on
SOMBRENESS
ROCK"
LEAP.
offers
start
A
STOLLJAERRES"
TO
VORINGFOS
(pronounced
and
GIAN
NORWE-
HARDANGER"
LIVING
THE
THE
OF
THE
INTRODUCTION
FROM
SCENERY
THE
OF
VIK"
FJORDS"
THE
XIX
and
articles
in
a
a
1
82
How
six feet square.
tiny shed perhaps
Vik
rest
The
people, however,
and
They
willingto
seem
display
every
possess,
from
the pots
being
the
and
these
down
Sometimes
the
the
to
dinner
is
furniture
is
escritoires and
a
considerable
of
of inaccessible cliffsat the
edge
winding mysteriousfjords) and
a
fashionable
to
route
is
to
west-end
Vik
the
rocks.
down
the
be worth
the north
is
and
One
branch
is enclosed
icegirt
full 6,000 feet
its jagged side,from
set
shop.
intricate,for
easternmost
Hardanger Fjord
towers
spinningwheel,
and the
inspection
Eidefjord
the
they
they be transported from
immaculately clean little farmhouses,
in
The
to
could
(builton
head
furniture
in which
bridal chests should
amount
proud
are
carved
baby's exquisitely
pans
cooked.
well worth
of
article
into their
you
and
the inevitable
cradle, and
of their houses.
escort
private apartments
most
the
friendliness itself
are
the doors
wide
open
For
of its attractions.
unaware
seems
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
by
the
of
cipitous
pre-
mountain
high, and
beneath' its snowy
NEXT
ON
waterfalls
innumerable
cap,
merely
some
and
there
leaps downward,
softer sounds
After
of Vik
hour
an
church
white
is
or
itself and
farm
a
and
long thin
stands
in
out
in from
in
stand
and
yet
We
caravan.
walking
the
custom
ponies. The
way
is
which
races
a
wide
again by huge
pent-up
stress
of
waters
stoll-
nearby
waiting
again
mount,
the level and
is
as
ine
mora-
like
the
on
tenuated
at-
an
and
two
hill,
tions
eleva-
crawling up
with
der,
or-
cliffs
trottingbriskly down
start
on
the
disappearinground
appearing again
and
the little
every
heights forward, stretchingout
two,
exploration
to
on
in Norway.
lake, the
from
and
line
silence
no
the
to
roar
short walk
separatingfjord
jaerreswill have come
village and
its
spent
so
a
which
leap;
ripple and
mighty stream
one
adding
there
"
and
run
some
murmur,
here
laugh,but
183
NOTHING
TO
Norwegian
through a ravine,down
river broken
boulders
swirl
among
and
their battle to
again
which
leap, adding
the
roar
of
and
the
to
water-
184
How
falls.
Above,
VISIT
TO
tower
mountains, their
below
us,
fenced
maelstrom
looking
The
the
the
emerge
of
The
dells
"
of the
a
and
storm
cleft in
over
scene
suddenly dimmed
tunnelled
passage
to
the sides
streaked
upward for 6,000 feet and
tower
silence of the
For
is
waters
stress
are
gone
with
rocks, the flower-carpeted
covered
moss
is
fully
merci-
are
stolljaerres
passivelake, from
a
man.
fisher-
ensemble
bare, precipitous,snow
mountains,
more.
the
rent
tor-
view, there is nothing to
through
upon
which
the
of
roar
secure
in-
an
into the
out
nature
awe-inspiring
pass
you
other
from
hidden
disturb
of
the
neath
there, be-
adventurous
some
grandeur
startling. The
and
boulder,
some
is built
cage
shelter
to
rocks, flows
Here
of
neath
begins. Be-
larly
roadway, irregu-
small
shelter
line
now
till it is
mist
and
sky
waters.
of
range
revealed,
narrow
with
on
now
the
the
of
the
and
tops
tell where
to
when
range
by driftingclouds
hidden
hard
EUROPE
the
mountains
"
this
is the
everlastinghills."
four miles
the road
is
cut
from
1
86
How
but the waterfall is
is louder
And
the
so
in and
jump
out,
now
from
here
hands, there
will
to
almost
sunken
is
water
underfeet, booming before
behind
then
and
"
along
you,
from
it's
that
wonder
the
surrounded
in
three
on
rises in
a
feetl
heard
bows
high rainof
seething cauldron
caught
waters,
veiled
be
can
roar
afar, or that its spray
from
ing
rag-
last the stupendous
at
"
head,
over-
"
from
Voringfos leapingdownward
spring of 520
heights in one immense
Small
in
against your
run
there
everywhere
and
"
you
climb, helped by strong
you
you
half
tree
a
winding
there creep
stone,
of
sight.
Here
down.
now
up,
stone
the morass,
yet in
not
track continues
narrow
slipperytrunk
the
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
dened
mad-
basin, and
narrow
by jagged
sides
pendicul
per-
rocks.
such
Anywhere
a
magnificant,but here,
scarce
narrow,
a
would
waterfall
at
head
the
of
crossed
negotiablegorge,
be
the
by
long, slender, swinging suspensionbridge,
over
which
general
but
one
can
at
pass
effect is increased
a
a
time, the
thousandfold
NEXT
ON
few
and
a
vivid
nature
is
say
could
of
the
puniness
of
realisation
and
the
Go!
indescribable.
Comrade
and
stand
and
I.
187
NOTHING
TO
Go!
watch
mighty
man.
Everyone
it
without
forces
The
of
whole
go!
so
CHAPTER
A
NORWEGIAN
TOWN
NORWAY"
OF
BUY"
ETC.
ATTRACTION
WHAT
TOWER
CLIMB
FOR
NORTH
SEA
(after the
"
usual
bandstands
it is
second
hills
either
so
OUTWARD
A
"
SAIL
TO
the
BEYOND
strange
desire
that
lie
is
to
quickly done
able
climb
behind
for
to
uncanny,
a
to
so
to
flourishing
graph
tele-
and
To
The
of
the
realise
is
get ashore, which
busy
188
shop
do !
the, top
Bergen.
to
the
awake
first impulse is to
be
it is necessary
is
exhibitions, banks,
The
to
pressio
im-
scenery.
consulates, post
!
SCRIPTION
DE-
dominant
night'ssail) off
are
THE
is, that Norway
quite
offices,museums,
and
FEET
surprises of Norway.
traveller
seems
in which
town
LEAD
FURS,
MARKET,
tinyvillagesand wonderful
It therefore
TO
THOUSAND
AND
of the
the
WHAT
FISH
A
it is reached
time
of
land
THEN
INNER
one
SHOPS"
OPEN-AIR
INLAND
THE
"
SURPRISES
THE
OF
SILVER, CARVINGS,
THE
"
VIEW
A
of
a
"
CHURCH
is
the
By
SEE
TO
ONE
THE
OF
FILIGREE
AND
BERGEN
BERGEN,
"
EMBROIDERY
"
XX
motor
boats
are
NEXT
ON
waiting,but
the
there,time flies. Boys
once
about
running
the
on
and
town
its
The
"
is built
on
is almost
is flanked
of the ancient and
the width
and
it
silver,Hardanger
filigree,
spoons,
of
lovely furs from
the
and
rarelyseen
in other
the
of
oddity
embroidery,
its
say
ing
noth-
tankards, Norwegian
Viking boats,
and
sub-polarregion,bear
skins,fox, silver,red, white
seal,otter
ings,
build-
shop displays
photographs,to
knives, models
in
the whims
to
caters
of
of the cups,
of
big church; in
and
its attractive
and
range
its main
tourists with
woods
a
island
It is modern
of
carved
an
curious mixture
fineness of
in which
crescent-
streets, its cleanliness
splendidtheatre
manner
a
by
modern.
busy
the
activity;
the
the
of the
Bazars."
rocky
a
in itself is
and
of
"
Tourist
shaped peninsulawhich
mountains
plans
fascinating spectacles,"
of
the whole
in effect,
are
environs, ready made
notices of
town
with
quays
itineraries,
programmes
and
1189
NOTHING
TO
a
score
lands.
and
more
down,
blue, eidervarieties
It is ancient
in
open-air fishmarket, the
How
190
Haakonshallen
King)
to-day
it
as
in the
kirke
centuries
was
of
the
remains
of
old
Hanseatic
Quay
which
Other
ago.
is
traction
at-
churches, the big modern
of
heart
Fantoft
at
the
the German
by
the
are
hall
Tower;
castles; and
down
quarter
EUROPE
(banqueting
Rosenkrantz
;
mediaeval
one
VISIT
TO
Bergen and
little further
a
the
Stave-
out,
a
tiny
building of the I2th century which has been
brought from the Sogne district and here
and
reconstructed
would
be
somehow
in character
more
Suddenly, shops
people
become
to
the
"
from
F10ie
start
we
"
up,
winding track, and
Plates
can
and
hurrying
be
above.
the way
the
By
is
the
magic
every
yard
films dwindle
be
of
readilyfound,
steps and
view
and
undertaken
by
now
at
foot climb
1000
that here is the place for
nowhere
and
tranquilbeauty of
the
and
F10fjeldetmust
the word
in China.
streets
fjords. Assuredly the
Bergen viewed
and
and
if it
as
oppressive after the silence
of the mountains
the
looks
a
now
stop to
by
claim
ex-
photograph;
more
fast and
beautiful!
the
"
best
NEXT
ON
view
of all," has
and
higher
yet
called top,
here
all
a
the
anything and
a
ginger
the customers,
of
of
"
have
and
of
sufficient
away
who
far
by
as
the
chain
of lakes
last and
of
the
our
favafter
eye
the
can
tains,
moun-
be
perceptiblyhigher level than
a
different
can
the faint blue line of
veritable
a
sessed
pos-
fjord beyond fjord
Towards
on
are
plates left
Sea.
each
to
photographed
the distant North
a
tume
cos-
magnificent panoramic
as
reach, until checked
roof,
attend
to
audacityto ask
Bergen, where
stretches
be
band
camera
photographing the
view
skin-hung,
national
thither
and
posing to
sufficient
thirst
in the clear
its
girlsin the
and
the
spacious vaulted
and
hither
the
lager beer,
check
with
it is too,
running
mand
de-
to
bright sunlight. What
air and
pretty Norse
so-
reached, and
or
climb
the mountain
flag-deckedwalls
by those
ale
everythingto
restaurant
with
is
energeticstop
most
lemonade,
Norwegian
last,at the
At
higher.
191
taken, for it Is
been
not
little restaurant
save
produced by
NOTHING
TO
tone.
seen
the
How
192
But
VISIT
TO
after
even
part of the
gen
this,the glory of the Beris
tour
sail down
the
the Inner
Lead, is yet
of mountains
rise
to
be
them
an
range
Hardanger
feet, and
the immense
down
arms
nestle
avalanche
barricades
the
on
Foglefond
into the cleft
tinyhouses
beneath
it would
descended
and
lean
them,
over
strike
across
Occasionallythey do, but more
small houses
are
engulfed and
the roofs.
and
The
barricades,erected in the belief that
earthen
often
through
glitteringin the sunlight,and
seen,
valleys. In these
the
and
come.
4,000
long white
flinging
when
Fjord
to
for the
yet over,
either side of the
and
3,000
plateauxabove
can
not
Hardanger
on
EUROPE
the
the debris.
beneath
buried
miles
across,
cliffs
are
fjord stretches
the
Sometimes
sometimes
scarce
two
the
two
good
frowning barren
hundred
yards apart,
graduallythey give place to lower, tree
covered, slopes,and then to a fringeof little
but
the
islets sheltering
from
Ocean.
the
turbulent
Here
and
of the Inner
waters
of
waves
there
a
the
Lead
Northern
lightgleams
out
CHAPTER
SCENES
GIRLS
A
"
LAKE
WAY"
THE
ON
DRIVE
THE
"
SKAARSFOS
of
OF
much
AND
MODERN"
alike
of
sense
variety given
LOTEFOS
RESORT.
very
widest
SANDVEN
THE
AND
HEALTH
THE
OF
THE
OF
DUTCH-LIKE
how
is, in the
is
WATERFALLS
NORWEGIAN
CONSIDERING
COSTUMES
MARGIN
THE
AALSUND
A
amount
NATIONAL
ALONG
TWIN
"
MOLDE"
XXI
on
the
the
all Norway
word,
various
the
tours
surprising.
The
whole
explored
with
arranged
in
such
is
produced.
of
have
been, each
not
much
sound
the
effect
like
encirclingalps
to
stands
it,but
out
spent
in the
where
the
a
eyes
to
another;
to
that
order
fjord
To
those
who
apart.
Voringfos
have
the
may
climb
that
up
vious
pre-
been, each
Take
district, for
impressiveness
194
cursions
ex-
those
town
every
been
and
see,
differs little from
thing
sombre
have
to
seems
by those
maximum
who
country
the
day
instance,
of
the
NEXT
ON
that
is such
scenery
NOTHING
TO
it makes
195
feel
you
as
torn
though the glamour had been ruthlessly
leaving the underlying intolerable
in
Then,
tragedy of reality exposed.
life
from
sharp vivid
beauty
of
contrast
the
morning in
a
Inner
divine
the almost
comes
followed
Lead,
by
smiling,fertile valley,where
surely naught but the happiest and
From
peaceful of lives can be led!
the
winding road
each
divided
of
barricades
beside
runs
from
can,
here
there
alone, perhaps
amid
a
lake
everywhere
trees,
or
there
beneath
up
which
in the
mountain
sodded
nestle where
are
on
village,
a
a
flowers.
They
of the farmhouses,
the
shelter of
occasionallyfind
turf
above
the
island
And
grow
ing
spring-
delicate birch
nourishment
door, while
geraniums, violets,pansiesand the
swaying foxglove and meadowsweet,
between
waters
tiny green
fast flowing river.
the roofs
on
even
the
forming
in groups
Odda
natural
by
which
over
most
chain of lakes
other
the
rocks
a
gurgle and laugh. Homesteads
they
a
flourish
rocks,
velvet-cushioned,fern-fringed
How
196
Tiny wild
beneath
VISIT
TO
EUROPE
shelter themselves
strawberries
huge
boulders
and
ripen in
generous
profusion.
The
general effect of the
whole
picture is heightened when
the
amid
gleam
the
girlsin
national
call
to
horses
a
grass
fences
"
where
birch
and
bodies
of
and
there,
pine, there
fair
Norse
fence.
.the
they toss
as
it Is left
to
hay upon
dry looking like
It is curious
in
to
these
see
straight rows
across
boulder-strewn, precipitous,
hill-side,
on
island
an
afford
foothold
party;
for
in
here
dress, and their clear voices
standing
some
or
scarlet
another
one
"
of
green
wonderful
bring
to
dry.
are
a
short
very
is
reaped
to
warm,
but
on
being
when
rapids.
some
summer
even
it
boat
tinyislet above
Northern
farmers
see
Norse
picnic
the mainland
to
grass
to
neglected
majority of
old
an
upon
the
the
the
It is pretty
gathered from
In
fair-sized
a
fertile space
no
to
tossed
to
though
Norway
seem
hardly big enough
the
leys
val-
the hottest
days perpetual puffs of fresh, pure,
snow-
ON
NEXT
fragrantair
NOTHING
TO
caught from
are
197
the clefts in the
shelteringmountains, where, beneath
of
barrier
houses
be
can
Such
glacier,a
some
the
of
group
from
drive
margin of the Sandven
Odda
Lake
along
which
across
of the wide
flungarms
fond
tops the mountain
range.
the landing stage the
from
drenched
bridge is
mingled
twin
reached
mighty Foglc-
that
by
course
the
and
of
bottom
in
foam.
a
their
veritable
Across
the
spray-
the
Skaarsfos,
one,
arc
downward
huge nose-like boulder, and
a
and
water
middle
in the
Ten
crosses
waterfalls,which, startingas
divided
at
of the
of the Lotefos
waters
the
Glacier, another
gleams the white Buarbrae
miles
small
seen.
is the
which
icy
meet
whirlpool of
narrow
valley
waterfall, the joyous
leaps yet another
Espelanfos,its origin hidden in the clouds.
Then
after this
Aalsund
and
they again
Aalsund
out
of
morning of
Molde
are
is
in
romance
come
quick succession,and
contrasts.
one
of
the
place in Norway.
towns
But
which
this is
seem
owing
198
to
How
the
fire
fact that it
in brick and
under
result is, that
shopping
those
to
in
opportunity
For
Bergen.
Aalsundsaxla
the
600
some
commercial
region,and
feet up
edge of
than
any
at
the
North
fjord town
from
the
innumerable
and
from
chains
of
straightahead, instead of
and
inland, there
is the
turbulence; the radiant
ter
and
flingsout
in bold
a
sea
sun
open
west
coast.
it, one
which
the
sea
islands.
to
fjord on
more
the
down
waterways
is
fishing-bank
Sea,
on
oramas
pan-
Aalsund
of
hills above
little boats, sheltered
ranges
from
varied
this
the mouth
other
Looking
the
of
in
spent
it is almost
anywhere.
centre
lies
the
sufficient
others, there is the view
magnificent of
most
for
scope
flying hours
obtainable
the
being painfully
afforded
not
vision.
super-
it is Dutch-like
it affords
However,
rebuilt
Government
besides
practicability,
modern.
the
has been
and
ago
stone
The
EUROPE
totallydestroyedby
was
five years
some
in its
VISIT
TO
sees
ply busy
by
tain
moun-
Gazing
right and
in its
makes
left
blue-grey
all
aglit-
relief the cleft sides
ON
NEXT
NOTHING
TO
sharp-cutfissures in
and
199
hill and
green
every
purple mountain.
After
Aalsund, and
Molde,
of
here
and
rush
and
health
again is contrast.
The
sense
for
Molde
is
is gone
push
resort
few
which
to
wend
their
enough, though
of
north
glorioussail,comes
a
growth
about
City of
Roses
the little place lies three
St.
Petersburg,
It is
it.
"
Curiously
way.
strikingcharacteristics
most
and
"
of
as
and
around
of
life
houses
in
its dark
itself;
outlined
hills.
eye
"
and
water
and
heather
red wooden
there
a
are
which
covered
The
clustering
is
walls
a
picture
and
of
spire
tranquil
heightsto climb, rose
chains of islets to
tinysilver
trees
stress
elements.
against its background
Again
tinted
and
storm
the
cathedral
wooden
a
the
peacefulhappy homes
are
about
sign of
fought with
as
The
of the pretty villas.
the windows
no
its
everywhere, on
walls, in the gardens, climbing up
offers
grees
de-
in the luxuriant
spoken
they are
of
one
the
Molde
wegians
Nor-
rich
but
a
lake
attract
lying inland
hills,a ripplingbrook
the
amid
gur-
How
200
from
dropping
be
to
natural
through
gling
VISIT
TO
the
caught
woods,
straight,
by
up
EUROPE
white
and
tall,
fluff
trees
cotton
birds
flying
ruthlessness
and
sleepy
nest-
wards.
The
given
and
by
dancers
the
cliffs
barren
are!
rests
of
impression
is
Here
and
the
salon
heights
stupendous
wild
How
gone.
all
smiles!
in
wild,
is
tranquil
To-night
we
down
below.
can
ture
tor-
ings
imagin-Nature
"
join
the
How
202
the
pass
VISIT
TO
EUROPE
Troldtinder
towering
("Witch
"
Pinnacles"), raisingtheir peaks 6,000 feet
and
the
more,
of
waters
pent
rushes
the
before
Rauma
through
its way
on
the
see
sharp
reflected in the
Romsdalhorn
of the
the steepest
as
Europe, and
in
mountain
outline
"
Mjoilnir,known
it
again
of birch,
groves
pine and ash, past tinyvillages. And so we
the posting station of Horgto
go onward
heim.
with
inn-like house
spread
beef
hot
variety,and
a
Before
it,is
hidden
from
of
curious
whiteness
snow
by
fields of
ridge of drooping
grotto
hollowed
its roof!
upon
view
lows.
wil-
vicinity,
too, there
immediate
In the
falls
water-
stretch of the Rauma,
immediate
a
enormous
and
range,
play
to
broad
a
waving grain and
a
in
neath
It is built close be-
coffee.
almost
reindeer
jerked
and
towering mountain
seem
small
apparentlyperpetually
the usual Norwegian
biscuits, cheese
sandwiches,
a
its tables
with
edibles, smoked
is
solelyof
littleplace consists
This
"
a
low
underneath
lyingpatch
as
much
ON
NEXT
by the action
its
of
waterfall
serpent-like
the heightsabove, as by
latent warmth.
own
Again,
as
the clouds
dip down
sometimes
obscures
cloud
itself there
lyingvalley
and, for
fertility,
all ; but in the low
and
is peace
dominant
of this,and
because
Perhaps
of
note
the
taking into
even
The
Norwegian.
the
real
anger.
with
each
not
here is an
it is
innumerable
way
marvellous
now
narrow,
openings
on
terlud
in-
continues
tour
again the yacht is under
Now
rounding
sur-
typically
seem
Norwegian
the
park-like,
the grand
account
short stoppage
drifitng slowly down
the
because
is
scenery
valleys,does
once
storm-laden
abundance.
Norway,
Naes,
of
mass
sun
the clouds,
cliffsabove
jagged
laden
a
the
Sometimes
outlines.
the
on
along the curving road,
into the valley,
cealing,
connow
suddenly liftingto displaythe
high, weird
strikes
drive
we
now
when
203
the
it from
playing on
NOTHING
TO
wide,
every
and
Geirnow
side,
showing fresh vistas of loveliness,each
offeringthe allurement
of
the
Unknown
"
How
204
before.
it
able
The
turns
incredible
seems
to
mountain
behind
are
that
is
a
the
through
pass
EUROPE
mountains
straightway,
a
now
VISIT
TO
just on
behind, mountains
so
abrupt
that
should
be
boat
the
in.its close proximityI
five minutes
another
crash
The
are
horn
sounds
though
as
mountains
were
we
intricate the way,
going.
the
But
brave
we
or
tortuous
and
them,
straightat a mountain,
weirdly overshadowing
flecked
in the
suddenly,and
portals.
Again,
swoop
as
mighty
a
echoes
after range,
and
it is
tooting for
impossibleto
whither
are
we
channels
when
we
widen
steam
we
it towers
above,
in the mist, -itssnow-
on
out
icy cap looking rose
late sunlight,it breaks
pass
the
from
the
they,and
are
and
and
sides
lavender
surely
that ahead!
that it is
came
we
Yet
bring
So close
recede !
to
tell whence
as
range
mendous
tre-
stern,
marvellous
and
from
flungback
almost
so
collide with
must
we
"
will
That
mazings.
through
Inner
almost
away
ing
meet-
Lead, white
the fastnesses,and
gulls
sea-
the
ON
few
NEXT
of
occupants
NOTHING
TO
205
tiny villagesand
light-houses(in lonely aloofness
world),
greetings to
wave
solitary
from
as
us
we
It is the
impressivenessof
the
is the occasional
sound
of
tranquil waters
these, one
dull
of
roar
though
for its individual
more
a
to
this
fall
water-
join the
to
clear
the
least will
at
the memory,
fjord.
Of
surelylive forever in
for its setting
than
This
beauty.
is the Seven
veil of gleaming waters
silver-grey
sharp, outline of high cliff a vision
Sisters,
"
a
On
scene.
a
leapingdownward
it goes
as
that adds
Geiranger, for instance, the only
marvellous
on
such
pass
wonders.
slowly onward,
seeking yet more
awe-inspiringsilence
the
a
"
sudden
caught as
a
waterfall
and
sharp
fjord
is
turn
in
meet
made, and
long
a
dicular
perpen-
line.
And
comes
head
as
then, as
Merok
of the
though
of
and
a
climax
the wonderful
to
day
lyingstraightbefore us at the
encircled fjord. It is
mountain
it faced upon
the
it
a
lake.
village is
of
gurgles
from
course
The
a
piece
centrefall
water-
afar, leaping
206
How
downward
in
gathering
till
its
voices
the
the
this
Around
of
snow-flecked
racked
fjord
in
little
its
tiny
level
the
village
by
snow-capped
the
whole.
its
their
the
white
its
fissured
unfathomable
ground
backand
sides
incredibly
depths
ranges,
tagon
oc-
plateau.
slopes
The
mountain
vain
waters
with
tree-clad
watercourses.
with
in
deadens
the
mountains,
by
feet
5,000
out
almost
fall,
foaming
full
imperturbable
singers
clusters
cascades,
rushes
It
on
its
goes
the
ruffle
Geiranger.
of
white
stream
church,
still
it
as
turbulent
to
EUROPE
foaming
energy
endeavour
of
VISIT
TO
girt
mirrors
CHAPTER
FROM
OIE
LONGEST
LAST
VIEW
the
drive
different
way
DRIVE
from
forewarn
those
OF
ALL
A
"
RANDUM
MEMO-
"
CRUISE.
the
will
Haugen
to
THE
NORWAY
OF
to
THENCE
NORHEIMSUND,
ENTIRE
FOR
is little in Oie
that
TOSSE"
UNFORGETTABLE
ACCOUNTS
OF
"
TO
TO
WONDERLAND
THE
OF
YACHT
BY
OVERLAND
"
MOST
AND
THERE
ON
HAUGEN"
TO
STOLLJAERRE
BY
XXIII
taken
ler
travel-
be
in
the
on
any
vious
pre-
days.
Oie
the
is
village, smaller,
a
Norwegian
average
valley,
green
with
a
above
lies
backed
snowfield
a
blocked
surrounding
but
roar,
see,
As
so
whence
dense
are
it,
fjord,
the
From
thunder
parently
ap-
the
and
it is difficult to
veiling
207
way
cliffs.
come
usual, stolljaerres are
plateau
Merok,
narrow
waterfalls
they
the
before
as
a
mountains
the
over
by jagged
heights
It lies in
by towering
spreading
land-locked
possible, than
village.
Before
them.
if
clouds.
waiting
in
long
How
caravan-like
of
word
rows,
spread swiftly. We
as
is the
Norwegian
cavalcade
on
and
this side of
in
on
the
twistingis
sightat
three
or
time, and
a
scene
snow-capped
leaping
flowers,
left
of
and
are
1908, stood
amid
so
the cavalcade
this wonderland
short
children
ran
ago
villagein
a
houses,
winding
way
road-
side
laughing be-
of tourists who
of
Nature
time
a
roofed
a
seasons,
violence
naked
flower
hay-hung fences,frontingon
which
softenings
bare
Norwegian
a
turf and
fertile valley,
along
ing,
behind, flow-
thousand
her
ornament,
boldly exposed. Here,
as
hills and
by the changing
we
tains.
moun-
forgotten,ferns,
are
the
crudities
gone,
bereft
mountains
mosses,
flungover
are
covered
cascades
stoll-
character
changes, tree
are
so
ionally
occas-
the
Then, suddenly the whole
of the
now
that, on
on
solitaryamid
seems
one
the
line; though,
road, only two
in
jacrresremain
its way,
now
two,
join in
and
wending
the water,
by
two
mount,
interminable
an
ing
arrival hav-
our
custom,
it goes
as
EUROPE
VISIT
TO
throng
to
rivers,mountains, gla-
How
210
side and
mountain
split
all looks
gulley,and
reveals
turn
in such
the
upheaval
The
is
may
bring
of
an
plain to
of the
next
snowfields
instinctive
jecting
pro-
into view; while
slidingavalanche
a
the
among
when
it,it is impossiblenot
seen
boulder
roar
exists
reality,
un-
pressio
its indelible im-
rounding
and
Even
of
more
the
the sudden
exist
can
sense
once
leaves
scene
it
the result of the
what
wonder
pause
same
turn, and
Having
to
ruin
contrast
strange
the sudden
eye.
sudden
a
again, when
nature
journey the
return
tremendous
until
to
plenty.
juxtaposition
and
comes
along the ridgeof the
impossible that
close
the
on
EUROPE
barren
luxuriant
almost
seems
VISIT
TO
causes
a
of
sense
where
some-
tense
disaster.
heightsis yet another
peacefulvillagebeing engulfed?
being merely
Haugen itself is insignificant,
Somewhere,
a
small
amid
the
refreshment
house, but
energeticto attempt
sufficiently
the snowfield
to
do
in the
is
above
it,there
scanty
time
for
those
the climb
is any
to
amount
tance
afforded, for dis-
always deceptive in Norway
and
ON
close
as
NEXT
the
hour's
an
line
snow
NOTHING
TO
looks, to reach it means
struggle.
Setting aside the goal, the
worth
211
while.
Every yard brings
panorama
into
view
and
the
main
that
available
make
of
camera
so
many
every
hand
at
speeds
at
once,
and
shapes
the camera-fiends
desired
take home
to
the eternal
gather the
is
youth
to
he
snow
so
anemones
whiteness, beautiful
There
as
is
not
sizes,
and
enable
all the much
a
summit
go
At
snows
reached,
are
point to be gained, for
that has climbed
strong.
grief is
required to
seem
there is yet another
the
kinds
new
a
views.
Then, when
who
is well
ascent
far is
last the
to
that nestle among
though they
above, and
higher, and
but
content
see
be?
the desire
more,
heightsare
of
is still
gained,just
the
tardy sun dips behind the mountains;
of the cup-like
lake which
dyes the waters
nestles in white
covered
And
encrusted
then
comes
solitariness amid
the
snow
slopes.
Tosse, the last port
of
How
212
call.
Tosse,
and
the mountains,
the
high
sund
VISIT
TO
the
magnificentdrive
through the Tokajel
of
pass
EUROPE
Kvamshaug
and
over
Norheim-
to
rejoin the yacht which
to
across
thence
must
sail for home.
Certainlysatietyis not yet. Or is it that
the most
even
jaded can be stirred again?
have
Despite what
we
from
Norheimsund
Tosse
to
grandeur, to be the
of the many
It is
one
most
we
the
seen
long drive
for sheer
seems,
marvellous
have
had
of the few where
in
and
Norway.
high
are
we
citing
ex-
on
the mountains, the
than
greater
a
depths beneath us being
first comes
the heights above:
serpentine,curving roadway,
up
a
row
nar-
ascending for eightmiles.
steadily
the way
it is but a widened
ledge of
gorge
Part
of
precipice,part is tunnelled
the
Sometimes
living rock.
through the
a
found
sharp that it has
been
blast
apertures
window-like
Sometimes
as
well
usual
the
turns
edge of the
are
necessary
to
narrow
so
to
give light.
roadway,
being outlined by boulders, in the
Norwegian way, is girded by iron rails
as
ON
which
NEXT
it
stolljaerres
the
cliffto the dark
flows
of the
one
Lake
each
as
the
and
the
The
horses
end
the
suddenly
the
rising
spray
far
it is
of
Ofsthusfos
from
possibleto
downpour.
The
comes
with
its
waters.
the cleft mountain
walk
Ofsthusfos
behind
is
our
trot
ravine.
as
drive
into
thick, soft
of
column
mingling
out
wondrous
the
of
they
as
volume
in
increases
sound
near
so
the
us
noise
the
the bridges spanning the dark
across
a
of
hoofs
It
we
and
view,
white
springs
side that
the tremendous
last
,
to
below
roar
above
thunders
waterfall
great
lift
mists
The
rain-swept mountains.
amid
of
weird
gleaming far
silver lake
a
times
Some-
completely con-
are
the
succeed
by clouds,
is blocked
above
Sometimes
disclose
way.
of Nor-
higher.
yet
beneath
heights
cealed.
a
climb
we
the view
of which
waterfall
river and
sheer
gigantic
perpetualstreams
and
other
the
of
the bottom
at
gorge,
from
look
possible to
perpendicularside
the
down
is
213
together,and
rocks
these
bind
NOTHING
TO
Norwegian
How
waterfall.
couple of
A
Norheimsund
in
VISIT
TO
the
the
made
yacht.
Behind
blue
The
.
of the North
Sea.
Norway
dreamland
Yes,
has
own
wiser
for
world
snow-
blue waters
us
the mists
glittering
peaks
and
the
circling
if it had
as
gone
been
mere
a
of wonders.
we
our
homeward
are
bound,
route
en
far country, the stronger
the
and
journeyings,in foreign lands.
our
is so
much
more
vast
than
we
had
!
There
have
and
snow.
around
the
out
the
.
.
.
known
blot
is ended.
and
Foglefond, the Fjord
gulls.
The
Close
fjord lies
tour
stretch the grey
driving rain
of the
which
pass,
of the
waters
the mountains
are
us
mountain
Norwegian
.
us
to
lies
on
day'sjourneying;and there,
before
fields,
and
further
charming pastoral scenery
to the majescuriouslysudden contrast
tic,
the smooth
on
miles
amid
rugged, ravine,and
have
EUROPE
in
been
strenuous
days
on
tains
moun-
valleys,in sunlight,rain
Merry nightsof dancing
and
and
of song,
ON
to
NEXT
Friendships have
friendships for
have
we
been
have
smiled
easier
ways
merry
oftentimes
and
be
must
Norsemen
the
cost
was
fare
Railway
for
difficult
hands, and
they
of
Such
must
our
sibility
respon-
in the
land
!
of
it all?
OF
EXPENSE.
$47-25
days
fee
and
and
weather, they
burden
theirs.
by S. S. Viking, thirteen
Special cabin
through
white-capped
heavy, indeed,
MEMORANDUM
hire,
the
and
aweary,
limbs
than
laughed, making
and
joke, though
lives
Cruise
foul
outstretched
been
And
and
by quick
have
the
And
of stalwart,
In fair weather
men.
us!
waters.
more
"
guarded, thought
body
a
215
rippling
begun
of
some
been
for, by
cared
of
of
accompaniment
an
all
NOTHING
TO
15.75
incidentals
such
as
tips, chair
etc
7.00
Excursions
12.50
$82.50
In
hand
"
"
I7-5O