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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
easy-to-use
4 sections
How to Use This Book
Plan Your Trip
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
Your planning tool kit
1Sights
rBeaches
2 Activities
CCourses
TTours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6 Drinking
3Entertainment
7 Shopping
&
zFestivals
Events
8 & Transport
Photos & suggestions to help
you create the perfect trip.
25
Mundaring
#York
•
IMAGES ©
Hyden &
Wave Rock
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•
É
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É
#
•
Bunbury
Dunsborough
# •
•
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Busselton
#Margaret River
•
Borunup Dr
É
Cape •
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#Pemberton
•
LeeuwinAugusta
É
É
É
É
#
•
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•
É
‚
É
Range
÷ Stirling
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National Park
É
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Mt
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Barker •
DenmarkÉ
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#•
•
# É •
Walpole
÷
#
Esperance
Cape Le Grand
National Park
Hopetoun
É
INERARIES
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T
INERARIES
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T
FEARGUS COONEY/GETTY
Swan
Valley
Rottnest
# •
•
#
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# •
Island •
# Perth
•
Fremantle
É
1
24
÷ Porongurup
#
National Park
#
•
Albany
Valley of
the Giants Tree
Top Walk
3
WEE
KS
The Southwest Uncut
IMAGES ©
08-itineraries-pwc7.indd
Above: Mitchells Falls
(p223)
Right: Swan River, Perth
FRANCES ANDRIJICH/GETTY
its main
and this itinerary covers
a magical part of the continentinto it. Start by following the preAustralia’s southwest is
relax
by another week to really
in Margaret
highlights. Bump it up
but spend a second night
Cape Leeuwin (p136),
vious itinerary as far as
time.
winery, brewery and beach
winerRiver (p132) for more
national parks, for more
(p139), amid three forested
Walpole
Continue to Pemberton
next day, continue through
press on
Explorer scenic drive. The
Top Walk (p145), then
ies and the Karri Forest
the
Valley of the Giants Tree
and breweries before making
(p145) to the extraordinary
out the beaches, wineries
(in summer),
to Denmark (p1460). Check
two days here swimming
149) the next day. Spend
coastal national parks.
short hop to Albany (p
and exploring the nearby
the
whale watching (in winter)
scuttling east to spend
at Mt Barker (p156) before
the
Head north for more wineries Park (p156). Spend the next day (or two) tackling
Park (p157) further north.
night at Porongurup National
or at Stirling Range National
mountainous tracks here
and JerraOngerup
through
distances get longer. Continuehop down to Hopetoun (p1600)
From here the driving
Hwy and at Ravensthorpe
so you can
mungup to the South Coast take about three hours from the Stirling Range,
Coast Hwy
will
to spend the night. This
day, head back to the South for at
the beach. The following
there
spend the afternoon at
of around 2½ hours. Stay Park (p164).
drive
a
),
161
(p
and continue east to Esperance
Cape Le Grand National
one exploring gorgeous
for the
least two days, spending
just past Ravensthorpe
Coast Hwy and turn north 102); allow four hours’ driving.
Head back on the South
Rock (p
the Great
and extraordinary Wave
and then turn north on
road to Hyden (p102)
Brookton
to
40
Hwy
3½
on
west
colonial York (p107); allow stopThe following day, head
the Avon Valley to quaintly
(p103),
Southern Hwy and follow
to Perth via Mundaring
take a leisurely drive back
hours. For your last day,
(p104) wineries en route.
ping at the Swan Valley
Range, or take
Hyden from the Stirling
shorter, head straight to
To make this itinerary
to Perth from Mt Barker.
the Albany Hwy directly
7/03/2013 1:00:06 PM
24-25
on the road
2
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3
Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
suggest you visit them, and within this order, by author
preference.
lonelyplanet.com/thorntree
Check out our full range of guides
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guides, written and researched by expert authors to give you an amazing travel experience.
47
ships in the
In December 1696 three Willem de
by
Dutch fleet commanded
Rottnest Island. On
Vlamingh anchored off
has wonderful 5 January 1697 a well-armed party landed
then
Laid-back, liveable Perth
and an easygoing near present-day Cottesloe Beach and
weather, beautiful beaches
to Bali as to some marched eastward to a river near Freshwathe
character. About as close
capitals, Perth’s ter Bay. They tried to make contact with
of
of Australia’s eastern state
attractions with local people to enquire about survivors
combination of big-city
in 1694,
surrounds offers an the Ridderschap van Hollant, lost
relaxed and informal
north.
locals and lots to do but were unsuccessful, so they sailed
appealing lifestyle for
cosmopoli- It was de Vlamingh who bestowed the name
for visitors. It’s a sophisticated,
restaurants and
river.
tan city with myriad bars, for attention. Swan on the
in 1829 when
vying
Modern Perth was founded
cultural activities all
out, it’s easy to do a hopeful Captain James Stirling established
When you want to chill
the main
nearby bush,
River Colony, and named
of
so. Perth’s pristine parkland, – along with the Swan
after the Scottish hometown
and river and ocean beaches – allow its settlement
for the ColoState
system
the British Secretary of
own
a good public transport
and enjoy what’s nies. The original settlers paid for their
inhabitants to spread out
servants, and in
passage and that of their
on offer.
200 acres for every lathough. The
Relaxed doesn’t mean static, (WA) con- return they received with them.
brought
Australia
they
bourer
mining boom of Western
to a Wadlike the state’s
At the time Mooro belonged his peotinues to see Perth blossom on the gravy
and
Those
juk leader called Yellagonga Boorloo, near
wildflowers in spring.
spending
main camp was at
train are out eating, socialising,in the sun. ple, whose
founded. Relations
muscles
where the colony was
money and flexing their
a wide sweep were friendly at first, the Noongar believing
The city of Perth lies along
of their
river borders the city the British to be the returned spirits
of the Swan River. The
led to
east, and links Perth dead, but competition for resources
centre to the south and
first to
city, Fremantle. Fol- conflict. Yellagonga moved his camp
in
to its neighbouring port
death
his
of
you’ll
time
the
and
by
city
the
Lake Monger and,
low the river north from
of all
such as Claisebrook 1843, his people had been dispossessed
reach prosperous nooks
houses, cafes of their lands around Perth’s city centre and
Cove, lined with ostentatious
around the swamps
were forced to camp
and public sculpture.
city centre from and lakes to the city’s north.
Train tracks divide the
from south of the
enclave, imMidgegooroo, an elder
the Northbridge entertainment where you’ll
his son Yagan, led
Here’s
Swan River, along with
mediately to the north.
In 1833
most of its
to the British settlement.
find Perth’s cultural institutions, restaurant resistance
and executed by
Asia
Midgegooroo was caught
hostels and the lively Little
was shot a few
firing squad, while Yagan
he
strip.
Beaufort St months later by teenage settlers whom
Continue northeast along
head was removed,
suburbs
had befriended. Yagan’s
was
and you’ll reach the sophisticated
Heading west smoked and sent to London where it
of Highgate and Mt Lawley.
To
an anthropological
as
Leederville.
hip
displayed
and
publicly
there’s Mt Hawthorn
city rises Kings Park, curiosity.
the west of the central
much harder than
beyond it. Go furLife for the settlers was
with well-heeled Subiaco
be. The early settlethe beaches.
they had expected it to
ther west and you’ll hit
until 1850, when
ment grew very slowly
labour shortage and
convicts alleviated the
History
Convict labour was
implements near the boosted the population.
the city’s
The discovery of stone
Mooro, the site on also responsible for constructing
Swan River suggests that
such as Government
now stands, has been substantial buildings
then, Perth’s
which the city of Perth
years. The in- House and the Town Hall. Even
occupied for around 40,000
that of the cities
a subgroup of the development lagged behind
digenous Wadjuk people,
That is, until the disthe Swan River (Der- in the eastern colonies.
Noongar, believed that
in the 1890s increased
landforms surround- covery of gold inland
bal Yaragan) and the
in a decade and
fourfold
(giant
population
Wargal
two
Perth’s
ing it were shaped by
which lived under initiated a building bonanza.
serpentlike creatures),
present-day Kings Park.
POP 1.75 MILLION
WEHRETNH TO G O
P
PERTH & FREMANTLE
Perth & Fremantle
Why Go?
an almost permanent canopy
Planted by a river and beneathis a modern-day boom town,
Perth
of blue sky, the city of
from its glitzy central business–
River
stoking Australia’s economy
relaxed as the sleepy Swan
district. Yet it remains as
skyscrap– which winds past the
black swans bobbing atop
Ocean.
ers and out to the Indian
the beach,
Perth’s heart is down at
Even in its boardrooms,
out on the
ocean surf and stretching
tossing around in clear
of Australia
trace the western edge
on any
sand. The city’s beaches
can have one to yourself
for some 40km, and you
size, Perth is sparsely populated.
given day – for a city this
Fremantle within its suburbs,
Perth has sprawled to enfold own distinct personality –
its
yet the port city maintains
bohemian
ties, working-class roots,
proud of its nautical
its football team.
reputation and, especially,
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Activities . . . . . . . . . . . .55
Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56
Festivals & Events . . . . 57
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
Drinking & Nightlife. . .69
Entertainment . . . . . . . 72
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
Getting There & Away .76
Getting Around. . . . . . .76
Fremantle . . . . . . . . . . . 77
When to Go
 Duende (p68)
Perth
 Namh Thai (p67)
Rainfall inches/mm
10/250
°C/°F Temp
 Print Hall (p65)
40/104
 Il Lido (p69)
8/200
6/150
30/86
 Cantina 663 (p67)
4/100
20/68
2/50
10/50
Best Places
to Stay
0/32
)
 Eight Nicholson (p60
60)
 Wickham Retreat (p
)
 Durack House (p60
 Above Bored (p60)
0
J
F
M
Feb Perth’s Arts
Festival is on and
school starts, so
the beaches are
less crowded.
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Sep Kings Park
wildflowers, the
Perth Royal Show
and the Parklife
festival.
Mar Warm and
dry, so great
weather for the
beach, and not as
swelteringly hot.
 Norfolk Hotel (p84)
7/03/2013 1:01:24 PM
13b-perth-fremantle-pwc7.indd
Must-visit recommendation
Learn about the big picture, to
make sense of what you see.
233
the most
in the country, is also
(WA), the largest state
Today Western Australia
population.
to less than 10% of the
populated, being home
sparsely
boom, bust,
history is one of hardship,
The story of Western Australia’s started some 40,000 years ago, when
history
some argue that
and boom again. Human
to have arrived – although
the first people are thought
ago.
as long as 65,000 years
to land on the
this could have occurred
the first European explorer
Dirk Hartog is considered
a pewter plate on
of his journey he displayed
shores of WA (as a record
Dirk Hartog Island).
in 1616, now known as
of the state,
an island in Shark Bay
base in Albany, in the south
The British set up a military in 1829, when Captain James Stirling
founded
IV.
in 1826. Perth was then
land property of King George
declared all surrounding
territory of the Noonby Stirling arrived in the
Conflict with
In 1829 immigrants led
between the two groups.
Battle of Pinjarra
gar people, sparking controversy
continued, notably in the
were killed.
the indigenous population
people and one European
(1834), when some 25 Aboriginal
discovery of gold in
transformation with the
WA began its economic
early 1960s, albeit
of the nickel boom in the
Riches from the
the 1880s and the inception
wars and the Depression.
others,
several
thwarted by the two world
among
Tom Price and Kalgoorlie,
burst when
mines at Mt Newman,
bubble of the 1980s, which
dovetailed into the economic select businessmen and state politicians
among
WA Inc (as the dealings
$600 million in public
discovered to have lost
came to be known) was
before the state was
however,
long,
not
it was
mining growth
money. Ever enterprising,
untrammelled economic
soon back on its feet, enjoying
and development by 2010.
First Arrivals
Australia at least 40,000
the northern shores of
People first arrived on
food and telling each
building shelters, cooking
They left layers of
years ago. As they began
signs of their activities.
other tales, they left behind
40,000
years ago
Up to 6000
years ago
1616
Dutch explorer Dirk
Hartog lands on an
island in Shark Bay,
marking his visit with a
pewter plate on which
he inscribed a record of
his visit.
rode the mighty
of New Guinea.
Dutch ship, the Eendracht,
Ten years later, another
‘spice islands’ of modAtlantic, bound for the
his position, and
trade winds across the
captain, Dirk Hartog, misjudged his name. Harern Indonesia. But the
bears
(near Gladstone) that now
stumbled onto the island
plate and nailed it to a
of his visit onto a pewter
tog inscribed the details
The founding of
Perth is most
famously depicted in George
Pitt Morison’s
painting The
Foundation of
Perth (1829). It
is often erroneously credited
as an authentic
record of the
ceremony rather
than a historical
reconstruction.
1697
1629
Willem de Vlamingh
replaces Hartog’s
plate with his own.
Debauchery, rape
and murder break
out while the Batavia
is shipwrecked at the
Houtman Abrolhos
Islands. All crew but
two are subsequently
executed at senior
merchant Francisco
Pelsaert’s behest.
IMAGES ©
Aboriginal communities from northwestern
Australia trade and
interact with Macassan shermen from
Sulawesi.
the
authorities believe that
Australia was a
These are intriguing
great distance to see Aboriginal the speedy little
first man to travel any
Janszoon. In 1606, he sailed
(modern Jakarta)
Dutchman named Willem
Dutch settlement at Batavia Cape York (the
ship Duyfken out of the
found
East India Company, and
was an extension
to scout for the Dutch
Australia), which he thought
pointy bit at the top of
ORIEN HARVEY/GETTY
First humans arrive on
the shores of Australia.
Early Dutch Exploration
theories. But most
T C H E X P LO R AT I O N
HISTORY E A R LY D U
History
in the soil. Piles of
their ancient fires – deep
people hunted and
carbon – the residue of
the places where these
shells and fish bones mark WA they left paintings and etchings, some
across
ate. And on rock walls
of the Dreaming, that
which tell their stories
thousands of years old,
were created, and the
the earth and its people
spiritual dimension where
especially those
law was laid down.
these Aboriginal people,
Contrary to popular belief,
the rest of the world.
not entirely isolated from
living in the north, were
trade across a bridge of
were able to travel and
white occupaUntil 6000 years ago, they
to New Guinea. Even after
hosted Macassan
land that connected Australia
of the northern coasts regularlysocialised.
tion, Aboriginal people
and
with whom they traded
of ‘Terra Australis’,
fishermen from Sulawesi,
first stumbled on the coast
When European sailors
Aboriginal groups, livoccupied by hundreds of
the entire continent was
own distinctive lanand maintaining their
Perth, for example,
ing in their own territories
around
fertile Swan Valley
of Noongar people,
guages and traditions. The
of about a dozen groups
is the customary homeland
dialect.
mysteries. In the
each speaking a distinctive
is filled with tantalising
by the so-called
The prehistory of Australia
fascinated
are
sleuths
amateur
Kimberley, scholars and
stick figures are thouenigmatic and mystical
the artwork of any
Bradshaw paintings. These
they look nothing like
sands of years old. Because
that created them is
the identity of the culture
other Aboriginal group,
debate.
fierce
of
people’s first
the subject
who claim the Aboriginal
Meanwhile there are historians
Chinese admiral, Zheng
world occurred when a
contact with the wider
say that Portuguese navithe 15th century. Others
He, visited Australia in
in the 16th century.
gators mapped the continent
FOUNDATIONS
2 32
 Batavia wreck, Western Australian
Museum (p168)
7/03/2013 1:02:22 PM
21-history-pwc7.indd
232-233
A
bedroom in a family home.
is not
full cooked breakfast
the norm. Tariffs for couples
to
are typically in the $150
Accommodation in Western
much
camp$250 range but can be
Australia ranges from
wa.gov.au/campgrounds.
higher for exclusive properAt WA’s ubiquitous holiday
ing grounds to high-end
ties. For online information,
hotels. Perth’s accommodaparks, prices for two people
expentry www.australianbedand
tion is generally more
range from $25 (unpowered
River, breakfast.com.au, www.babs.
sive, although Margaret
tent sites) to $40 (powered
caravan
com.au or www.ozbedand
Broome, the Coral Coast
caravan sites). Many
unbreakfast.com.
and Pilbara mining towns
parks are phasing out
they
come very close. For simplicpowered sites because
Camping &
holiuse
ity, reviews in this book
are less profitable. Most
Caravan Parks
the same price categories
day parks offer accommodato
For many travellers, touring
throughout the state.
tion, from simple chalets
is
with a tent or campervan
Over summer (December
flasher motel units.
experithe consummate WA
Pick up the free Caravanto February) and around
up
ence. In the outback and
school and public holidays,
ning, Camping and Moeven
north you often won’t
prices are at their highest.
torhoming in WA at visitor
visiwith
need a tent. Check
Outside these times discentres or see www.cara
tor centres before heading
counts and lower walk-in
vanwa.com.au.
of
out to confirm locations
rates can be found. One
Dongas
free roadside stops. Many
exception is the far north,
out
(Nostops have been phased
Commonly found in the
where the wet season
Perth
low
mining
immediately north of
outback, especially in
vember to March) is the
furdrop
but are more frequent
towns, the donga is basically
season and prices can
ther away from the city.
a prefab tin room (usually
by as much as 50%.
in
Pila single
Designated camp sites
Accommodation in the
air-conditioned) with
per
due
national parks cost $7/2
bed, TV and small fridge.
bara can be hard to find,
basic
adult/child with no or
to the fly-in, fly-out (FIFO)
CampFarmstays &
facilities. Sites with showers
mining phenomenon.
cara(including unpowered
Station Stays
ing is often the best option.
You’ll
van sites) cost $9/2.
The Gascoyne and Pilbara
B&Bs
also need to pay entrance
popular spots for
parks, areas are
fees for many national
Bed and breakfast (B&B)
station stays, and at some
in.
but only when you enter
options range from rooms
you may be asked to pitch
a
in
the park. If you’re exploring
in heritage buildings to
Accommodation is either
(B&B
the main homestead
style, with dinner on request)
ONLINE
or in adjacent self-contained
BOOK YOUR STAY
procottages. Other farms
outreviews by Lonely Planet
vide budget options in
For more accommodation
/hotels.lonelyplanet.com.
buildings or former shearers’
authors, check out http:/
reviews, as well as recommenquarters. Search for ‘FarmYou’ll nd independent
can
to stay. Best of all, you
stay’ online at www.tacawa.
dations on the best places
com.au.
book online.
Accommodation
SLEEPING PRICE RANGES
The following price ranges
room per night.
less than $150
$
$$
$$$
$150 to $250
more than $250
refer to the cheapest
double
S
S TO M S R EG U L AT I O N
DIRECTORY A–Z C U
a fourseveral parks, pick up
week national-park holiday
pass ($40). Some nationalpark camp sites can be
booked online. See www.dec.
range
Prices for dorm beds
from $23 to $35, private
Staff
rooms from $65 to $90.
can often help in securing
seasonal work.
Some hostels, espeas
cially in Perth, are popular
short-term accommodation
for FIFO workers, changing
the traditional travellers’
vibe.
A Youth Hostel Association (YHA; www.yha.com.au)
or Hostelling International
annual
(HI; www.hihostels.com)
membership (in Australia
at
$42) gives a 10% discount
Sign up
participating hostels.
in.
at the first YHA you stay
VIP Backpackers (www.
vipbackpackers.com) also
offers discounts in participating WA hostels. A 12-month
dismembership ($47) offers
counts on accommodation
and some transport, tours
or
and activities. Join online,
at VIP hostels.
On arrival, declare all
listings
for shorter stays. For
goods of animal or plant
www.
of holiday homes, see
origin, as it’s vital to protect
stayz.com.au.
Australia’s unique environindusFor self-contained acment and agricultural
of the
commodation, many
tries. If you fail to declare
book
risk
places reviewed in this
quarantine items, you
over
will suit; with full kitchens,
an on-the-spot fine of
to
they’re a good option
$200 or even prosecution
more
save money by not eating
and imprisonment. For
out. Check out the listings
information contact the
,
and
flagged as ‘cottage’, ‘chalet’
Australian Quarantine
(AQIS;
and ‘apartment’.
Inspection Service
In cities a good alternawww.daff.gov.au/aqis).
tive is a serviced apartment.
Duty-free allowances:
Number Six has apartments
and
 Alcohol – 2.25L
around Perth, Fremantle
are
 Cigarettes – 50
Margaret River, and others
See
$900
also listed in this book.
 Other goods – up to
tips to
boxed text on p59 for
Hotels & Motels
value; or items for personal
rare
offset high accommodation
use that you will be taking
Full-service hotels are
coastal
prices, especially in Perth.
with you when you leave.
outside of Perth, and
resortproperties tend to be
cottagstyle, with standalone
vary
Customs
es or apartments. Rates
Discount Cards
widely, but there are benefits
with Regulations
The most common discount
in booking early, directly
last
comprehensive informaaccommodation,
the
For
for
at
or
card
properties,
the
and some attraction on customs regulations,
minute, on accommodationCus- transport International
contact the Australian
tions is the
booking websites.
Service (%02-6275
Student Identity Card
In rural areas, book ahead, toms
.
gov6666; www.customs.gov.au)
as motels are used by
tour
ernment workers and
groups.
Pubs
a
You can sometimes rent
pub
single room at a country
a
for not much more than
a light
hostel dorm. If you’re
room
sleeper, never book a
above the bar. Some pubs
also have separate motelstyle accommodation.
Rental
Accommodation
flat
The ubiquitous holiday
but
resembles a motel unit
launhas cooking and often
often
dry facilities. They’re
rented on a weekly basis,
higher
and nightly prices are
GST REFUNDS
tax on
tax (GST) is a at 10%
The goods and services
basic food
with the exception of
all goods and services
law
and vegetables etc). By
items (milk, bread, fruits
price, so
in the quoted or shelf
the tax must be included
are GST inclusive.
all prices in this book
of $300
with a minimum value
If you purchase goods
no more
(on the same invoice)
from any one supplier
entitled
leave Australia, you are
than 30 days before you
of
Scheme (TRS) to a refund
under the Tourist Refund
you
only applies to goods
any GST paid. The scheme
the plane or
luggage or wear onto
take with you as hand
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newsletter
Perth &
West Coast
Australia
Broome &
the Kimberley
p204
Coral Coast &
the Pilbara
p183
e
#
Monkey Mia &
the Central West
p165
Around
Perth
Perth & p89
#
Fremantle ^
p46
South Coast
p143
Margaret River & the
Southwest Coast
p118
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Brett Atkinson
Steve Waters
On the
Road
Broome &
the Kimberley
p204
Coral
Coast & the
Pilbara
p183
Monkey Mia &
the Central West
p165
Around
Perth
Perth &
p89
Fremantle ^
#
p46
Margaret River & the
Southwest Coast
p118
South Coast
p143
15°S
692
1227 1481 1637 1919
Esperance
Exmouth
Margaret R
Perth
672
115°E
20°S
Ningaloo
Marine #
÷
Park
of
pic
Tro
Capricorn
Exmouth
\
#
North
West Onslow #
\
Cape
Karijini National Park
Plunging waterfalls and
remarkable gorges (p198)
Albany
Ningaloo Marine Park
Pristine coral reefs and
turquoise lagoons (p193)
110°E
1072 1228 1510
Esperance
2163 2417 2573 2855 1341 1737
Exmouth
Broome
Monkey Mia 818
765
410
Albany
467
385
254
Margaret R
Note: Distances
are approximate
ROAD DISTANCES (km)
0
250m
500m
750m
1000m
1250m
ELEVATION
Monkey Mia
\
#
\
#
\
#
Karijini
National Park
\
Paraburdoo Newman#
÷
#
Marble
Bar
The
Pilbara
Ù
#
Jigalong
Aboriginal
Land
80 Mile
Beach
Karlamilyi
National Park
]
Broome #
Beagle Bay
Aboriginal Land
Cape
Leveque
Gibb River Road
Gorges, waterholes, rock
art and wildlife (p220)
i
nn
Ca
÷
#
ng
200 km
100 miles
Bonaparte
Gulf
333
333
33
33
Admiralty Gulf
Aboriginal Land
125°E
Kalumburu
Cape
Cape Bougainville Londonderry Aboriginal
Aboriginal Land
Land Joseph
0
e
#0
kR
oc
St
e
out
Great Sandy
Desert
44
4
Central
Australia
Aboriginal Land
Kiwirrkurra
Aboriginal Land
Lake
Mackay
Kurlkuta
Aboriginal
Land
Balgo
Aboriginal
Land
Wolf Creek
Crater
National Park
÷
#
Bonaparte Drysdale River Oombulgurri
Archipelago National Park #
÷ Aboriginal
Land Mirima
Prince Regent
Kunmunya
Nature
National
Wyndham #
\
Reserve
Aboriginal
Emma Park
Land
÷
Gorge c #
\#
Collier
El Questro Kununurr
Bay
Wilderness
Park
Lake
Wotjalum
Argyle
Aboriginal
Land
Purnululu
National
cTunnel
\ Derby
#
Park #
Windjana Creek er
÷
Gorge #
iv Kimberley
\
R
Plateau Halls O r d R
c Geikie
Creek
\
#
\
#
Gorge
Fitzroy
Crossing
Ashmore
Reef
4
3
33
33 33
MillstreamChichester
National Park
Tom
\
Price #
÷
#
Point
Samson
Dampier#
\
#
\
\ #
#
\ Roebourne
Karratha
Yandeyarra
Aboriginal Land
Port
Hedland
Broome
The north’s premier
beach-resort town (p205)
OCEAN
INDIAN
Crocodiles inhabit rivers, billabongs
and estuaries in tropical areas.
120°E
oy
Fi
tz
r
Perth & West Coast Australia
i v er
30°S
OCEAN
35°S
Cue
\
#
333
Yapuparra
Aboriginal
Cosmo Newberry
Great
Land Victoria
Aboriginal Land
Desert
\ Leinster
#
Yeo Lake
Nature Reserve Neale Junction
Nature Reserve
\
#
Point Salvation
Laverton
\
#
Aboriginal Land
LeonoraGwalia
Great Victoria
Desert Nature
Goongarrie
Reserve
÷ National Plumridge Lakes
#
Park
Nature Reserve
Wiluna
\
#
\
#
Tjirrkarli
Warburton
Aboriginal
Land
Warburton
Aboriginal Land
WarakurnaWing-Irr
Aboriginal Land
4333
Lake
Buchanan
Gibson
Desert Nature
Reserve
Gibson
Desert
\
#
Narrogin
York
\
#
\
#
Lake
\
#
King
Wave
Hyden Rock
Merredin
\
#
\
#
125°E
OCEAN
\
#
Eucla
130°E
Great Australian
Bight
Madura
Nullarbor
Plain
SOUTHERN
\
#
Cocklebiddy
Nuytsland
Nature Reserve
Cundeelee
Kambalda Aboriginal
Land
Kalgoorlie
- Boulder
]
#
\
Norseman #
Dundas Nature
Reserve
Southern Coolgardie#
\
Cross
Sandstone#
\
333
3
333
333 333
33
3333
33
3333
33
33 3333
33
33
\
#
Meekatharra
\
#
ne River
]
#
\
#
Cape
Fitzgerald River
Esperance
Collie
Naturaliste
National Park
\
#
\
#
÷
#
÷
#
Busselton
÷ #\ Hopetoun
#
Arid
\
#
Margaret River
Cape Cape
Cranbrook
National
\
Range
\ Manjimup #
#
Le Grand Park
Augusta #
÷ Stirling
#
\
National
Park
National
Park
\
#
Mt #
\
Cape Pemberton
Barker
Leeuwin
\
#
] Albany
#
÷ Denmark
Walpole- #
Nornalup
120°E
115°E National Park
Bunbury
Mandurah #
\
]
Fremantle#
#
Perth ^
\
#
er
33
Gascoy
\
Mt Magnet #
Northam#
]
Pinnacles
÷ Desert
#
Nambung
National
\
#
Park Moora
\
Dongara-Port Denison #
Perth
Western Australia’s sizzling,
sophisticated capital (p46)
Margaret River
World-class wine
and surf (p118)
Mullewa#
\
]
Geraldton #
INDIAN
Pinnacles Desert
Ghostly limestone pillars
among the dunes (p114)
33
3
\
Carnarvon #
Shark
25°S
François Bay Shark Bay
Cape Peron
÷Marine Park
#
Inscription National #
÷#\Monkey Mia
Park
\
#
Denham #
÷
Hamelin Pool
Marine Nature Toolonga
Reserve
Nature
Shark Bay & Monkey Mia
Kalbarri Reserve
National
World Heritage–listed bay
Park
with marine life (p176)
÷
\ #
Kalbarri #
A s h b u rt o n R iv
R
Mount Collier
Range
C
÷
Augustus National Park #
(1105m)
r
Ri
ve
Mu
rch
iso
n
OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and
Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook
should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS
Brett Atkinson
Coordinating Author; Perth & Fremantle, Around Perth, Margaret River & the
Southwest Coast, South Coast Brett’s previous visits to Western Australia had
involved museum- and bar-hopping in Fremantle, and taking on the mighty
Nullarbor Plain. This time he expanded his WA horizons by immersing himself in
Perth’s restaurants and cafes, ‘researching’ craft breweries in the Swan Valley,
and jumping from beach to forest and back to beach throughout Margaret River
and the southwest. As a New Zealander, he’s used to weird and wonderful wildlife but still thinks
WA’s quirky combo of woylies, numbats and whale sharks is something special. Brett’s based in
Auckland, and has covered more than 45 countries as a guidebook author and travel and food
writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for what he’s been eating recently, and where he’s travelling to
next.
Steve Waters
Around Perth, Monkey Mia & the Central West, Coral Coast & the Pilbara,
Broome & the Kimberley While researching the previous edition of this book,
Steve descended into rental-car hell, so this trip he drove 15,000km in his own
Subaru L-series, which took a hammering on the Tanami and almost drowned
getting into Purnululu. Driving lights dropped off, shockers, tyres and drive shafts
all broke. At least it only caught fire once. Slept in, eaten on, buried in Dampier
Peninsula pindan, covered in Pilbara dust, pulled over by Cervantes cops, from Kununurra to Perth,
the Subie kept going. Steve’s also co-authored previous editions of Australia, Indonesia and Great
Adventures; while not on the road, he frequents Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office.
Read more about Steve at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/stevewaters
CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS
Rebecca Chau wrote the Boomtown: Mining & the Environment chapter. Rebecca first started
learning about WA back in the ’80s, when she started school in Albany, south of the state. After
growing up on this land crinkled by beaches and coveted by whales, she moved to Perth, and later
became a commissioning editor for Lonely Planet. Also an author on the previous editions of this
guide, she heads back to WA a couple of times a year. She has long followed the mining boom with
fascination.
Dr Michael Cathcart wrote the History chapter. Michael teaches history at the Australian Centre,
the University of Melbourne. He is well known as a broadcaster on ABC Radio National and has
presented history programs on ABC TV. His most recent book is The Water Dreamers (2009), a
history of how water shaped the history of Australia.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
7th edition – July 2013
the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74179 952 1
mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 2013
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in China
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,
mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the
written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent
and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such
as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
23
Itineraries
Rottnest
Island
•
# Perth
É
•
#É
•
#
Fremantle
É
É
É
Geographe
Bay
#
Dunsborough •
É
#
Bunbury •
•
#
Busselton
•
# Balingup
É
É
Margaret River •
#
Nannup
‚
É
É
Borunup Dr
•
#
•
#
Cape Leeuwin Augusta
1 K A Southwest Short Circuit
WEE
If you’ve got limited time, this itinerary offers a taste of the best of the state – city life,
colonial history, beaches, wildlife, wine, forests and rural roads. Base yourself in either
Perth (p47) or Fremantle (p77) and spend three days exploring the conjoined cities and
one day on Rottnest Island (p91). Hire a car and head south, stopping first at Bunbury
(p120) for lunch and a visit to the Dolphin Discovery Centre. Continue on to Geographe
Bay (p120), basing yourself in either Busselton (p123) or Dunsborough (p125), and use
the rest of the day to explore the beaches. Pick up a wine-region map and spend day six
checking out the wineries, surf beaches and caves, all of which are close by. Base yourself
in the Margaret River (p132) township that night and head to Settlers Tavern, the local pub. The next morning, head to Augusta via Caves Rd and take the scenic detour
through the karri forest along unsealed Borunup Drive (p134). Visit Cape Leeuwin
(p136), where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet, before heading back to Bunbury on
a picturesque rural drive through Nannup (p137) and Balingup (p137). From here it’s a
two-hour drive back to Perth.
24
Swan
Valley Mundaring
Rottnest
•
#York
•
# •
#
Island •
# •
#
•
# Perth
Fremantle
É
É
É
É
É
É
•
#
Bunbury
É
Busselton
É
•
#
•
#Margaret River
É
É
‚Borunup
Dr
É
Range
# Stirling
÷
National Park
•
#Pemberton
É
Mt
#
Barker •
Denmark
•
#•
# É
# É •
Walpole
É
Cape •
#
Leeuwin
Augusta
É
•
#•
#
Hopetoun
É
Dunsborough
É
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
Hyden &
Wave Rock
•
#
•
#
÷
Esperance #
Cape Le Grand
National Park
# Porongurup
÷
National Park
•
#
Albany
Valley of
the Giants Tree
Top Walk
3
WEE
KS
The Southwest Uncut
Australia’s southwest is a magical part of the continent and this itinerary covers its main
highlights. Bump it up by another week to really relax into it. Start by following the previous itinerary as far as Cape Leeuwin (p136), but spend a second night in Margaret
River (p132) for more winery, brewery and beach time.
Continue to Pemberton (p139), amid three forested national parks, for more wineries and the Karri Forest Explorer scenic drive. The next day, continue through Walpole
(p145) to the extraordinary Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk (p145), then press on
to Denmark (p1460). Check out the beaches, wineries and breweries before making the
short hop to Albany (p149) the next day. Spend two days here swimming (in summer),
whale watching (in winter) and exploring the nearby coastal national parks.
Head north for more wineries at Mt Barker (p156) before scuttling east to spend the
night at Porongurup National Park (p156). Spend the next day (or two) tackling the
mountainous tracks here or at Stirling Range National Park (p157) further north.
From here the driving distances get longer. Continue through Ongerup and Jerramungup to the South Coast Hwy and at Ravensthorpe hop down to Hopetoun (p1600)
to spend the night. This will take about three hours from the Stirling Range, so you can
spend the afternoon at the beach. The following day, head back to the South Coast Hwy
and continue east to Esperance (p161), a drive of around 2½ hours. Stay there for at
least two days, spending one exploring gorgeous Cape Le Grand National Park (p164).
Head back on the South Coast Hwy and turn north just past Ravensthorpe for the
road to Hyden (p102) and extraordinary Wave Rock (p102); allow four hours’ driving.
The following day, head west on Hwy 40 to Brookton and then turn north on the Great
Southern Hwy and follow the Avon Valley to quaintly colonial York (p107); allow 3½
hours. For your last day, take a leisurely drive back to Perth via Mundaring (p103), stopping at the Swan Valley (p104) wineries en route.
To make this itinerary shorter, head straight to Hyden from the Stirling Range, or take
the Albany Hwy directly to Perth from Mt Barker.
25
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
FEARGUS COONEY/GETTY IMAGES ©
Right: Swan River, Perth
FRANCES ANDRIJICH/GETTY IMAGES ©
Above: Mitchell Falls
(p223)
26
•
# Kalumburu
É
É
É
É
‚
É
Purnululu
National
÷
Park #
Park
É
ÉÉ
Mornington
÷ Wilderness
#
•
#Geikie
Gorge
É
‚
Windjana Gorge
÷
Tunnel#
Creek
National
Park
É
‚
É
•
#
•
#
É
É
É
É
‚
É
É
•
#
•
#
É
Derby
Broome
‚
É
•
#
É
Dampier
Peninsula
É
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
Cambridge
Gulf
Parry
Five Lagoons
Nature
Rivers Reserve
Drysdale
Lookout
•
#
# Kununurra
Wyndham •
#•
River
÷ É•
#
#
Emma Gorge •
#
Kalumburu Rd
#
Home •
•
#
Valley
Mt Elizabeth
Ord
Station #
Station
÷
River
•
#
É
El
Lennard
Gibb River Rd Questro
Mt River •
#
Galvans
HartRGorge
Gorge
Gibb River Rd
Mitchell•
Plateau #
Bungle Bungle
Range
Great Northern Hwy
1 TH The Gibb River Road & Kimberley Outback
MON
The biggest adventure in the west leaves Broome (p205) during the Dry and traverses
the heart of the rugged Kimberley by 4WD. First stop is the Dampier Peninsula (p216),
with its Aboriginal communities, beautiful beaches and mud crabs, and your last saltwater swim. Take the back road to Derby (p217), with its boabs, then on to the Gibb
River Road (p220), where Lennard River (p221) is the first of many inviting gorges.
Explore wildlife and gorges at Mt Hart (p221) and remote Mornington Wilderness
Camp (p221) and look for Wandjina at Galvans Gorge (p221) and Mt Elizabeth Station (p222). Turn off onto the Kalumburu Road (p221), check the road conditions at
Drysdale River (p223) and drive on to the Mitchell Plateau (p223), with its forests of
Livistona and mind-blowing falls. Marvel at the area’s rock art before hitting the northern coast and excellent fishing at Honeymoon Bay (p221), just beyond the mission community of Kalumburu (p221).
It’s all downhill from here as you retrace your route back to the Gibb, then turn left for
wonderful Home Valley Station (p222), where someone else can do the cooking and the
soft beds make a pleasant change from camping. Nearby El Questro (p222) has gorges
aplenty, none more beautiful than Emma Gorge (p222). Soon you’re back on asphalt,
but not for long as you take in the amazing bird life of Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve
(p226). Let Wyndham’s Five Rivers Lookout (p225) blow your mind with its view of
Cambridge Gulf, before heading for the civility of Kununurra (p225), with its excellent
food and supplies. Look for fruit-picking work, ride a canoe down the mighty Ord River,
or jump back behind the wheel for the wonders of Purnululu National Park (p224),
home to the orange-domed Bungle Bungle Range (p224). Darwin and the Northern
Territory are beckoning, or you can follow the Great Northern Hwy back to Broome,
stopping in at beautiful Geikie Gorge (p223) for a relaxing boat cruise where you might
spot freshwater crocs. If you don’t see any, don’t worry, as nearby Windjana Gorge
(p222) has loads sunning on the river banks. Grab your torch and head for a cold wade
through the icy waters of Tunnel Creek (p223), with its bats and rock art, before planting the pedal back to Broome, where you won’t care how much that beer costs any more.
27
É
#
Exmouth •
Ningaloo
÷
Marine Park #
#
Coral Bay •
•
# Carnarvon
Shark Bay
#
Monkey Mia •
Point
Samson
÷
#
•
#
É
Hamelin Pool
80 Mile Beach
•
#
É
É
É
#
Broome •
Ù
#
Great
Sandy
Desert
Port Hedland
MillstreamChichester #
÷ Karijini National Park
÷ #
National
Park
•
#
•
#
Exmouth
Tom Price
É
The
Pilbara
É
#
Kalbarri •
#
Geraldton•
•
#
Greenough
•
# Perenjori
É
É
#
Green Head •
Lesueur
÷ National
#
Park
É
Pinnacles Desert #
÷
•
# Perth
2 KS Indian Ocean
Dreaming
WEE
Beautiful beaches, spectacular sunsets and
diverse wildlife are constants on this coastal
cruise. Take Indian Ocean Dr north from
Perth (p47) to Cervantes for sunset on the
otherwordly Pinnacles Desert (p114). Cruise
the wildflower-laden Kwongan back roads
and marvel at Lesueur National Park’s
(p115) flora before snorkelling with sea lions
at Green Head (p117). Follow the flowers out
to Perenjori (p112), then hit the cafes and
museums of Geraldton (p168). Have a surf
on a kiteboard, then move on to the wonderful Kalbarri (p172) coastline. Enjoy a canoe
in the gorges before sampling the outback on
the long drive to World Heritage–listed Shark
Bay (p176). Watch dolphins at Monkey Mia
(p179), go sailing with dugongs, and learn
about country on an indigenous cultural tour.
Check out the stromatolites of Hamelin
Pool (p176), before putting in more road time
on the stretch to Carnarvon (p180). Drop
into Gnaraloo (p182) for world-class waves
before arriving at tiny Coral Bay (p186) and
Exmouth (p188), where whale sharks, manta
rays and turtles inhabit the exquisite Ningaloo Marine Park (p193). You can fly out
of Exmouth, drive back to Perth in two days,
overnighting in historic Greenough (p170), or
push on to the gorges of Karijini (p198).
1
WEE
K
Pilbara Jewels
You’ll camp most of the way on this link
between Ningaloo and Broome, with long
empty beaches, shady pools and surprisingly good food. From Exmouth (p188),
take Burkett Rd back to the highway, and
head north, turning off at Nanutarra for the
long, scenic haul up to Tom Price (p198).
After stocking up, spend the next few days
camped in Karijini National Park (p198),
exploring the sublime gorges and indulging
in a spot of peak bagging among the state’s
highest mountains. Don’t miss a swim at
Hamersley Gorge en route to restful, shady
Crossing Pool in Millstream-Chichester
National Park (p198). Admire the mesas
and breakaways of the Chichester Range
before dropping down to the coast and some
snorkelling at lovely Point Samson (p197).
Take the North West Coastal Hwy directly
to Port Hedland (p201), and scoff some
wonderful coffee and cake in the Silver Star
railcar, before camping at remote 80 Mile
Beach (p205), where you might spot nesting turtles. Your last leg is a long stretch of
nothing as you skirt the Great Sandy Desert
to arrive in tropical Broome (p205). You
can bail out here or tool up for the Kimberley. Alternatively, skip the country on a
direct Bali flight from Port Hedland.
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
É
É
#
Gnaraloo•
•
#
R
Little
Sandy
Desert
BAR
•
#
er
Riv
Or
d
Gibson
Desert
Lake
Mackay
44
Central
Australia
Aboriginal Land
500 km
250 miles
Arafura Sea
#
Alice •
Springs
MacDonnell Ranges
NT
This shortcut from Halls Creek to
Alice Springs will save you loads of
time but may pound your car to a
pulp. For just a taste of remoteness,
visit Wolfe Creek Meteorite Crater.
TANAMI ROAD & WOLFE
CREEK
The rarely visited Duncan Road
provides a more laid-back, scenic and
self-sufficient outback experience
than the Gibb River Road. There are
beautiful gorges, safe billabongs and
zero facilities. You’ll be sleeping in the
million-star hotel. (p222)
DUNCAN ROAD
0
e
#0
TANAMI ROAD &
WOLFE CREEK
Wolfe Creek
Meteorite Crater
Balgo
Aboriginal
Land
•
#
•
#
Gregory
National
Park
DARWIN
Beagle Gulf
DUNCAN ROAD
The
# Halls
Kimberley •
Creek
y
ro
CANNING
STOCK ROUTE
Great
Sandy
Desert
Derby
Rudall
River National
Park
WA
Dampier
Peninsula
#
Broome •
•
# MARBLE
The Pilbara
Karijini
Ha
me National
rsl Park
ey
Ash
Ra
bur
ton
ng
Ri
e
MT
ve
r
AUGUSTUS
Exmouth
•
#
•
#
•
#Karratha
Port
Hedland
OCEAN
Oombulgurri
Aboriginal
Land
•
#
KALUMBURU
Timor
Sea
ver
Ri
Dampier
A long way from the bitumen (and
most tourists), this goliath between
the Pilbara and Gascoyne easily
dwarfs more fancied Uluru. Five
different access routes, hidden rock
art and walking trails provide many
options for exploration. (p197)
INDIAN
Tumbleweeds blow across the road as
you unwind yourself from your
vehicle, shake off the dust and enter
the cool, shady interior of the Iron
Clad Hotel. That icy beer has never
tasted better. (p203)
MT AUGUSTUS
KALUMBURU
Few travellers make it to this shady,
palm-fringed mission at the end of a
disintegrating track, but those who
make the effort are rewarded by laidback camping, WWII wrecks, lonely
beaches and legendary fishing. (p221)
MARBLE BAR
Fi
tz
PL AN YOUR TRIP O F F T H E B E AT E N T R A C K
Off the Beaten Track
28
nR
so
OCEAN
INDIAN
Bunbury •
#
#
Busselton •
#
Mandurah •
Perth •
#
#
Fremantle •
ne River
iver
DRYANDRA
Denmark Albany
•
# •
#
•
# WOODLAND
•
#
Northam
Sunsets from the mainland’s most
westerly point just don’t come any
better, nor does the fishing. Nearby,
Dirk Hartog Island is replete with
history, begging to be explored. Just
getting here is an adventure. (p178)
(p000)
STEEP POINT & DIRK
HARTOG ISLAND
•
#
STEEP POINT &
DIRK HARTOG ISLAND
Mur
ch
i
coy
Gas
#
•
Dundas
Nature
Reserve
Nuytsland
Nature
Reserve
- Boulder
OCEAN
SOUTHERN
Esperance
WarakurnaWing-Irr
Aboriginal Land
Gibson
Desert Nature
Reserve
Aboriginal
Land
Simpson Desert
National Park
CANNING STOCK ROUTE
Simpson
Desert
Nullabor
Regional
Reserve
Go marsupial crazy and get
boodies,and
acquainted with bilbies, boodies
excellent Barna
marla at Dryandra’s
andDryandra’s
woylies at
Perth is just a
Mia Animal
Sanctuary.
Barna
Animal
Mia
excellent
this of
from
a couple
is just
Perthaway
of hours
couple
Sanctuary.
forest.
stand
eucalypt
protected
this
fromof
protected
hours awaystand
(p102)
of eucalypt forest. (p000)
DRYANDRA WOODLAND
Great Australian Bight
Nullarbor
Plain
Desert Nature
Reserve
SA
#
•
Eyre
Peninsula
Port Lincoln
Yellabinna
Regional
Reserve
The most serious off-road
Pitjantjatjaranku
undertaking in Australia stretches
Aboriginal Land
Great
Victoria
2000km through desert and salt flats,
Desert
Cosmo Newberry
linking together wells along this
Aboriginal
Neale
Junction
Land
disused stock route. It’s not for the
Nature Reserve
faint-hearted; you should consider
Maralinga Tjarutja travelling in convoy. (p000)
WA
Great Victoria
# Kalgoorlie
•
# Wiluna
•
44
Lake
Buchanan
es
Ran
g
•
# Adelaide
Fli
nd
ers
Carnarvon
PL AN YOUR TRIP O F F T H E B E AT E N T R A C K
•
#
29
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