1. home and garden
2. home improvement and repair
3. plumbing

Instructions on how to make Living Tree Art©
By
Earl Senchuk
“I’m honored, excited, and thankful for the opportunity to teach my art to so many”
Table of Contents
Overview of the procedure……………………………………………………………..
Supplies you will need ……………………………………………………………………
Tools you will need.………………………………………………………..
Things to consider before starting………………………………………………
Step 1: The design- What kind of tree do I want to make? What are my
choices? How tall? How many branches?
Step 2: The base is everything. Size matters when it comes to anchoring. Three
types of anchoring systems can be used that depend upon intended location of
display and size of the tree. The choice of anchoring system determines the
best way to set up the operating area.
Step 3: Getting started- Make the struts that will define the taper of the trunk
and branches.
Step 4: The Operating Area
Step 5: Weld the struts to the primary branches. Work the taper to look
realistic.
Step 6: Bend and weld till your heart’s content.
Step 7: Install the microtube protective liner (PEX). Run a passage test.
Step 8: Lock in the PEX tube and fill with foam. Let sit.
Step 9: Carve away the foam. Re-foam the empty spots. Let sit. Re-carve.
Step 10: Laying on and sewing on the mesh. Spider lath?
Step 11: First fill coat of concrete. Scratch coat. Wet cure overnight.
Step 12: Texturing techniques. How to make a very realistic looking knothole in
30 seconds. Wet cure overnight.
Step 13: Rubdown to knockdown burrs and imperfections.
Step 14: Bark painting and coloring techniques.
Step 15: Make the rings to hold the pots. Build a bending jig.
Step 16: The automatic watering system. What you will need to order. Where
to go to get what you need.
Step 17: Before planting the tree. What do I need to know? Where is the best
location? What questions should I ask my potential customer? What questions
should I ask myself? What are the Terms and Conditions of agreement that
outline responsibilities for both the purchaser and you as the contractor?
Step 18: Other branch attachments to hold Pine boughs or tumbleweeds for a
change of look between seasons.
Overview of Procedure
With the shape and size of the tree determined, you will begin by preparing a
framework that defines the model you have in mind while considering things
like balance, thickness of branches, taper, and the like. With anchoring
considered based on the size of the tree, you will set up your operating area.
After cutting, bending, shaping, and welding what will seem like a lot of ¼” steel
rod, you will incorporate the internal plumbing followed by more of the
previous. Expandable foam locks in the tubing. Carving away the foam defines
the first look of the actual tree and helps to improve shape. A mesh layer is
firmly sewn on to accept the first fill layer of concrete followed by a texturing
layer. Painting gives depth to the bark and creates a sense of realism.
SUPPLIES YOU WILL NEED
Supplies are pretty much the same for all the trees with some exceptions.
Anchoring styles differ based on the size of the tree. For trees up to 8 feet tall,
you can get away with a pipe and sleeve anchoring system. Anything bigger than
that, you will need to add some beef. Some customers wish to order a tree
without the automatic watering system to save cost. All trees 8 feet tall or taller
should have the watering system. Lengths of rod needed differ based on where
the first bifurcation (branch split) occurs, quantity of branches, size of the rings to
hold pots of plants, etc. Supplies listed in these instructions are approximate for
one 8 foot tall tree with seven branches and seven, 10 inch rings.
STEEL SUPPLIES: Some rod comes in 20 foot lengths, some 12 foot. Cut the 20
footers in half.
Item
Qty
Units
¼” hot rolled steel rod- 20 foot lengths
12
ea
½” cold rolled steel rod- 12 foot lengths
4
ea
3/8” hot rolled steel rod- 10 foot lengths
3
ea
1/8” steel plate
4
sq ft
¼” steel plate
1
sq ft
¾” black pipe (10 ft length)
1
ea
1” Galvanized pipe (2-3 feet) threaded one end
1
ea
1-1/4” Galvanized pipe (3-4 feet)
1
ea
1” Galvanized steel flange plate
1
ea
3/8” nuts and bolts
4
ea
Rebar tie wire
1
spool
Metal lath mesh (24” by 84” sheets)
2
sheets
For trees taller than 8 feet, you will need to add:
Item
Qty
Units
½” x 2-1/2” cold rolled rectangular bar steel
14
ft
Auger type anchors (30 inch, or longer if in sand)
4
ea
¾” nuts (if using auger anchors)
4
ea
INTERNAL ASPECT SUPPLIES:
Item
Qty
Units
Expandable foam
5
cans
3/8” PEX tubing
75
ft
NOTE: PEX tubing is what I use as a protective liner for the microtube. 3/8” PEX is
the smallest diameter of PEX that will allow the passage of a microtube. The
microtubes are a small diameter, rubberlike tube that delivers water to each of
the plant pots. They can be vinyl or polyester plastic. Here’s what the PEX and
microtubes look like. Notice the scratch cuts on the tube just above my thumb. I
will draw attention to these later as something you will wish to avoid.
CONCRETE NEEDS:
Mapei Planitop X (50 lb bag)
1
bag
Mapei tile mortar, a.k.a. Dry set or Thin set mortar.
1
bag
If you are planning to make your tree singularly free standing as might be the case
for inside a Shopping Mall or large office entry, you will need to create a form
with which to pour a concrete base onto which the base of the tree can be bolted.
To apply a corporate logo or other emblem onto the base in tile you will need:
Mapei Keraset II tile set mortar
Mapei S grout- comes in an assortment of colors.
Tiles of your choosing. (See tutorial on artistic tile processes by my cousin Julie)
TOOLS YOU WILL NEED
MIG welder or stick welder (MIG preferred)
Oxyacetylene tanks and torch for heating and bending rod.
3/8” Drill bit
9/16” Drill bit (You’ll need a stepped down shank)
Cordless, 3/8” drill and an assortment of drill bits from 1/16”-1/4”.
4-1/2” hand grinder
4-1/2” steel grinding disks
Cut off discs for the purpose of cutting steel rod and sheet steel.
Channel locks (large) to grip the rod while heating and bending.
A plasma cutter is great if you own one. Otherwise use cutoff wheels.
For Mixing the Cement:
Buckets x2 or more for mixing and cleaning equipment
Cement mixing paddle
½” electric drill to mix the cement
Gloves with plastic coated surfaces on the palms.
MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS:
Acetone or lacquer thinner to clean the rod.
120 grit sandpaper to clean the metal to ensure good welds.
Heavy duty leather gloves for the metal mesh process.
Surgical gloves for the foaming process.
Snap-off type blades for trimming the hardened foam.
A sawzall cuts the foam very fast if you have one. Otherwise use the snap-off
blade tool or an old serrated kitchen knife.
Eye protection. A full face shield is preferred.
HDPE (polyethylene) drop cloth.
ITEMS TO CONSIDER BEFORE STARTING
Trust me when I say, “It’s not a quick and easy process to make a tree.” You are
about to try to duplicate one of God’s creations so that it looks convincing to
everyone. The amount of prep work and dedication to detail is the very reason
why you can charge such an amount for this art. There are no rules, only
guidelines.
Wear protective equipment throughout the process. Things can go awry when
working with tools, sometimes overhead, that are spinning at 30,000 rpm. Use
caution at every step when using welders and grinders. Follow MSDS rules and
safety measures outlined by all manufacturers of the tools and products that
you are using.
The size of the tree you might wish to make matters greatly. A difference of one
foot in the height of a tree doesn’t sound like much, but it multiplies
exponentially in the amount of resultant weight and work that you will have to
add. Always consider public safety during and after installation.
Step 1:
The design- What kind of tree do I want to make? What are my
choices? How tall? How many branches?
The choices are endless. You will find that all trees on earth are perfectly
imperfect, which leaves a lot of wiggle room for you. Like snowflakes, no two
are alike. Find trees in your area. Walk in the woods. Study trees. What
makes them different? How do the branches split from one species to another?
Some branch sharply at 90 degrees, some gradual. Some are twisty. Colors
range from very dark all the way to white bark birch. Textures of the bark
among tree species vary immensely. Strive to keep things in proportion if you
are shooting for realism.
The size of the tree affects many factors like weight, amount of work added,
number of people involved in installation, transport, and public safety.
The spread of the branches is important. The branching characteristics can
relate to an actual type of tree you wish to represent, but can also create what
looks like a whole new species simply by the plants you choose to use. The
trees are designed so that you can manipulate the display which will be
explained later. Read these entire webinar instructions before beginning.
I will tell you that you are in for one heck of a lot of work, but when the flower
or foliage pots go in, you will feel immensely satisfied and proud. After that
point, you will be fired up to use everything imaginable within your local plant
zone to find a new look to show to your customers for the next season.
The choices for plants are endless. Every part of the world has its own unique
selections to offer. In the far north where I live, I use flower and foliage baskets
from local greenhouse growers in the summer and native tumbleweeds and
pine boughs in winter. The red pine boughs don’t lose their shape when they
dry out and can be painted over for a completely new look. Lights of any color
can be added for additional affect to both tumbleweeds and pine bough
arrangements. Keep an open mind to new possibilities. Share them with other
Vertical Artisans.
Take notice of interesting trees in your area. Be cognizant of above ground root
systems that you can duplicate. Take many pictures. Post them on a board.
Use aspects of them to create your own look. Force your look.
Very few people actually know trees, so you can get away with murder here. All
they really care about is that whatever you make looks cool in their yard. They
are not picky about species characteristics unless you give them that option.
My advice-Don’t go there unless you are a professional tree species duplicator.
The number of branches matters. Work with odd numbers of branches on trees
6 feet or taller. Five or seven branches make for an easier arrangement. Even
numbers of branches may appear too balanced and can produce a forced look.
There is no better way to advertise your work than by setting up a tree in a high
traffic area. I set up the very first Living Tree Art at a tourist welcome center
where ten thousand cars per day pass by. That’s a lot of lookers. We literally
recorded 2000 people (by means of a traffic counter strip) in one month that
went through the parking lot that were not recorded coming in through the
other welcome centers at the entry points to the state. A lot of the count was
due to locals cruising through the parking lot to get a closer look. Hundreds of
people have stopped in to ask, “What kind of tree is that?”
I sell trees based on the height of the tree and quantity of branches. An eight
foot tree is actually the height of the pin post at the uppermost point. As you
will see, once the plants go in, depending on the type of plant, the trees will be
taller and quite a bit fuller. The plants are what makes Living Tree Art happen.
The tree shown above is twelve feet tall to the tip of the uppermost pin post. The flowers are “Giant
Pink Supertunias, an Australian hybrid by Proven Winners Company. They can grow an inch per day.
Step 2: Anchoring Means
The base is everything. Size matters when it comes to anchoring. Anchoring
systems differ depending upon the intended location, type of display, quality of
soil, and the size of the tree.
Living Tree Art can be made for indoor or outdoor displays. The first
consideration for the type of anchor system to use is public safety. The taller
the tree and the denser the type of plant used to simulate foliage, the more the
wind will affect it. The first two of the three different types of anchor systems
to follow are for outdoor displays only, in soil or sand. The third is can be used
both for indoor or outdoor displays, in soil or sand.
The soil into which the tree is anchored is important. Sandy soil doesn’t hold as
well. A general rule is, the sandier the soil, the deeper and wider the anchoring.
Anchor system “A”:
This is the system I use for outdoor trees 4-8 feet tall in firm soil. Trees smaller
than 4 feet tall are generally indoor displays and can rely on a bolt-on base plate
of your own design or simply balanced on a table. Here are examples of smaller
trees that rely on balance alone or a base plate of some sort.
Anchor system “B”:
This is the anchoring system I use for outdoor trees taller than 8 feet. In this
system, the anchor plate (base plate) can be welded or bolted to the flat bar.
The flange, pipes, and the tree itself are all detachable. The reason for this
system is to disperse the anchoring capability of the tree over a larger area
somewhat like a real tree root system. How far to extend the flat bar out away
from the center is your call. Generally, 3 feet from center for a ten foot tree and
4 feet from center for a 12 foot tree is plenty in good soil. Go wider and deeper
in sand, especially if the tree is tall.
The anchor plate can be in any shape you desire based on the root character of
the trunk at the point where the trunk first penetrates the soil. The upper level
of the rectangular bar stock should not be wider than the base plate as this area
will be shrouded to create an underground void to contain all of the plumbing
connections. Roots simulated beyond the shroud are add-ons. The reason for
the downward bends is so that the bar stock extensions are far enough below
the ground surface so as to conceal the anchoring means and also to allow the
grass above plenty of room to grow. A 6” drop is sufficient.
I have used auger type anchors exclusively in the past. They can provide quick
and easy anchoring, but I do not recommend them. They have a loop at the top
that you have to first cut off and then thread the top to accept a large nut. I
admit that it makes it convenient to be able to use an extra heavy duty
½”electric drill and literally fasten the trees to the earth with the auger anchors
(times 4 or more), that is, until you happen to hit a pinch point between two
large rocks. It’s a good way to break your arm or leg. You better be quick on
the draw or have a stiff clutch. The deeper you go, the more strain it puts on
the drill, and then greater risk to you.
What I do is make a pre-assessment of the soil with a probe made of ¼” CR steel
rod, sharpened at one end and solidly welded to a 12” bar of ½” black pipe at
the top. You can feel in your hands, through the course of penetration, textures
in the soil that lead to insights about what’s going on underground. Surface
dirt, sand, graininess, clay, gravel, stones, and large rocks, all have a feel that
can give you an idea of what you are about to go up against. My advice—probea-plenty!
With advance knowledge of risk, limited to the results of the Advance Probe
Assessment, I penetrate the soil using a strong, dependable, heavy duty 1/2”
drill, until it begins to resist to the point of unsafely. Auger anchors do save a
lot of time, but the time saved is relative to the risk, and it’s all yours.
I bring this up because I know it’s only a matter of time that someone might
come up with a faster way to set the anchors to save time, and not know the
risk involved. It’s better I tell you now.
A much safer means is to use concrete anchor bolts. These are long, “L” shaped
bolts used to anchor sill plates on a house. To use these, you must first dig a
hole into which you can suspend the anchor bolt and then drop a bag of
QuikcreteTM into each hole. The downside, besides the added time of having
to dig four or more holes, is if or when you want to remove the tree. Code
might require that the bolts be removed. These types of bolts can be
purchased up to 36” in length. If you can’t find the longer ones, or if you need
them even longer for sand, you can always make your own with some ½” CR rod
stock. Seal coat these with a good quality primer to stave off rust.
The 1” galvanized pipe insert should be at least 24” or longer. Whatever length
you choose, the 1-1/4” galvanized pipe sleeve should be six inches longer so the
inside pipe can’t bottom out into the dirt when inside the sleeve. Always
anchor deeper in sand.
Anchor System “C” can work for both indoor and outdoor displays. This system
is useful when there is no earth in which to anchor a tree. It offers a larger
footprint to a free standing inside display. Some of these slabs can be
purchased off the shelf at your local hardware store. Here is an example of an
off-the-shelf 24” square pad that was used at the 2012 World of Concrete Trade
Show in Las Vegas.
This tree is eight feet tall on a 24” square pad. The plants are seven, 10” pots of Boston Ferns
If you decide to use this kind of display for outdoors, use good judgment as to
the size and beefiness of the slab needed relative to the density of the plants
and realm of space your tree takes up that might someday have to do battle
with nature. Consider balance and any extraordinary conditions you might, and
especially not expect.
If you have soil depth under the slab, he pipe and sleeve option compensates
greatly toward anchoring and can allow for a smaller slab if space is an issue.
You can use a smaller slab if you can compensate your stance by going deeper.
Smaller slab=longer pipe or good balance. Larger slab=no pipe needed, unless
you want to further anchoring capability.
Step 3: Getting started- Make the struts
These are the all-important struts that will define thickness and taper of the
trunk and branches while providing longitudinal stiffness. Think of them like
struts in an airplane wing. You can use more struts than this for added stiffness,
but I wouldn’t recommend less. I cut these out of 1/8” sheet steel using a cutoff
wheel. A plasma cutter would be nice to have for this step. A template is useful
if planning duplications. The holes for the PEX tube liners are drilled at 9/16”.
The holes to slip onto the skeletal frame are drilled to 1/2”.
The drawing to follow gives you an idea where each will eventually go.
The largest of the struts (A), the anchor plate, defines the shape of the trunk
near the base. You can add character to your tree here by adding what will
become the start of the roots at the point where the trunk penetrates the
ground. Remember, more roots translate into a lot more work. Keep it simple
at first. We’ll work on dramatic root character later.
Each strut has a number of holes to accommodate the plumbing depending
upon where the strut is located in the tree. As you move down the branches,
the plumbing tubes accumulate. A seven branch tree will have seven holes in
each strut for the trunk (struts A, B, and C). As you go up to the terminal
branches, the number of holes diminish down to just two holes, one for the
plumbing and one to weld the strut to the skeletal branch.
Now that you have decided the size of your tree and the appropriate anchoring
system, let’s start with the very bottom plate, the most important of all the
struts. This will be the anchor plate to which all else is attached. The anchor
plate defines the shape of the trunk at the grass level where the trunk of the
tree will penetrate the earth. This can be any size or shape you desire. Make
note that whatever size you start out with, the trunk and branch diameter will
increase by as much as 1 inch or more by the time you add the mesh and
concrete bark texture.
Anchor plate
The four, equidistant 3/8” holes match up with the holes on the 1” flange plate.
Enlarge the holes on the flange plate with a 3/8” drill bit. It makes it easier to
drill one hole, bolt the flange plate to the base plate, and then drill the other
holes. This way you know all the holes will match up. Weld the nuts to the
topside of the anchor plate after connecting so that the bolts can be removed.
This will allow you to detach the tree later if you ever need to do so.
Under this anchor plate will be a void that houses all the plumbing connections
and anchoring means. There is much going on underground that people don’t
see. This 1/8” plate will serve the purposes for trees up to and including 8 feet
tall. I recommend going to 3/16” plate steel for a 10 foot tall tree and ¼” plate
steel for a 12 foot tall tree, the largest I’ve ever made.
Remember: In all three of the anchor systems (A,B, and C), if you choose to
incorporate the automatic watering system, you will need to create a void in the
base of the trunk to house the plumbing. (see photo to follow)
The photo above shows what a typical void looks like. These microtubes will all
get connected together so that the number is reduced to a single microtube that
will feed water to all the plants exactly in the manner as you desire.
It makes life a lot easier if you chamfer and/or round off the burr edges of all
the holes on the topside of each and every strut where the PEX tube will
eventually pass through. Otherwise, the sharp edges of the holes will cut into
the PEX as you try to load the tubes. Remember the earlier photo of the cuts
and scratches on the PEX? You only need to round off the 9/16” holes on the
topside because the PEX tube is fed in from the top. The PEX tube serves as a
durable protective liner for the microtubes that will be fed through later for the
automatic watering system. The advantage afforded by the PEX is that if
anything ever happened to any of the individual microtubes, they could be
replaced at will, and with ease.
Notice the white marks in the photo below. If you lay the first three plates one
on top of the other, you can get a feel for how the tree will taper as you go up
the trunk. Visualize the distance between each strut and how each might be
enhanced for stability or flexibility. If you make each plate successively smaller
as you go up the tree, it will create the taper of the tree. How much smaller is
relative to the design or type of tree. Mark the plates as though radiating from
a central point matching up the high and low points.
These marks identify where you will grind away recesses to accommodate the
¼” rod that will define the shape. It makes things easier if they are in alignment
as you weld the rod as you proceed up the tree trunk. The large holes allow the
struts to slip over the 1” black pipe before welding. Strut “C” should be slightly
smaller than Strut “B” depending upon the amount of taper to the trunk and
style of tree. For example, in the almost imperceptible taper of a palm tree, the
struts B and C would likely be fairly similar in size. Here’s what I use to mark the
metal.
The drawing to follow could be of any outline shape you choose. It’s an
example of all that needs to be included in an anchor plate. You can notch the
struts before or after they are welded in place. Your call. The notches can be
“V” shaped or round. The notches, whether V or round, should be cut deep
enough so that the ¼” rod nests within the outer perimeter of the strut.
Otherwise, it will change the diameter of the tree.
Step 4: The Operating Area and Pad
It helps to set up an area where you can work 360 degrees around the tree. If
you are using Anchor systems B or C, you can use the anchors themselves as the
stands to support your tree as you build it up. If you work outdoors and have
good soil, use the pipe and sleeve of Anchor system A. Otherwise, to follow is
what I use as a base pad or stand to hold the tree upright on a concrete floor. I
use this type of stand to make trees that are 4 feet to 8 feet tall.
Glue the pad to a concrete floor. You can bolt it to the concrete, but make sure
the concrete anchor bolt heads are outside the diameter of spin of the tree as it
is spun on and off the pad during building and assembly. Glue is the preferred
method to concrete for me because I don’t like to have to deal with the feel of
the heads of the anchor bolts under my feet. For glue, I use E-6000 (industrial
adhesive), but Gorilla Glue will work as well. Follow instructions on the tubes.
The pad should be large enough so that the entire diameter of the bottom of
the trunk will spin freely fit on top of the pad without obstruction, and should
tighten equally as it bottoms out
To ensure that the tree will always spin on the same way, make sure that the
anchor plate is level with the ground and that the threaded pipe of the pad is
firmly bottomed out into the flange before constructing the void. The anchoring
capability of trees using Anchor Systems B and C rely on a draw fit. Strive to
make the entire base perimeter of the void touch at the same time as it’s being
drawn down. The bolts must be long enough to pass through the concrete or
other base, through the void, past the flange, and into the nuts welded to the
inside of the anchor base. A 4” deep void is plenty big enough to house all the
micro plumbing needs.
The pipe will screw into the flange about 5/8”-11/16” deep before bottoming
out, but the pipe will not go in so far into the flange so as to touch the bottom
side of anchor plate. Luckily, if you cross thread the 1” pipe flange, it can be
unbolted and replaced easily. If the pipe threads on the pad are damaged, the
pipe will have to be re-cut and rethreaded, or replaced.
Consider the challenge of trying to, very carefully, thread an unwieldy, 150
pound object, at a slant, onto a threaded post that you cannot see without
stripping the threads. You are going to have to do this multiple times. It’s not
as easy as I make it sound.
Step 5: Weld the struts to build the trunk
At this time, before any welding begins, you must determine the primary
viewing angle. This will be the most interesting angle to the viewer depending
upon the setting. This angle generally gives the viewer the most to see after the
plants are in position. There are many considerations. Where will the tree be
planted? If the tree is planted close to a wall, there will be a 180 degree viewing
angle, out in the open (360 degree viewing angle), in a corner (90 degree
viewing angle). In any of these cases, there will still need to be a front to the
tree.
Also, ask yourself many questions like, Do I want my tree to slant left or right, or
vertical? Do I want a curve(s) added to the taper of the trunk? How tall will the
trunk be to the first bifurcation? Do I want to see mostly plants or branches, or
both? Trees come in all shapes and sizes. You are limited only by your
imagination.
The rings that hold the plants can swivel 360 degrees to tighten up a display or
spread it out. You will need to consider the plants that you or your customer
chooses to use. Some are full and bushy. Some are long and cascading. I highly
recommend any type of plant that grows over enough to cover the pot. The
beauty of Living Tree Art is that the look of the tree can be changed dramatically
simply by the choice of plant. No matter what foliage or flowering plant is used,
you can always make it look good. There remains, however, the best viewing
angle. This is the angle that will generate the greatest visual impact.
The other major consideration here is at what level you want the first
bifurcation (branch split). The lower the first bifurcation at the top of the
trunk, the longer may be the branches. I made a tree once using real tree
branches where the first bifurcation occurred underground. Trees can also
split into more than two branches (yes, trifurcation). These don’t seem to make
for a good frontal view. Study the trees in your area to get ideas. Look at trees
on the internet. Here are a few examples of different level bifurcations.
OK. Let’s build a tree!
First, cut the 1”pipe to the desired length and slope angle and then weld the
pipe onto the anchor plate as directed in the drawing above.
Screw the assembly onto the support pad. Weld Struts “B” and “C” to the pipe.
Make sure there is sufficient distance between branch ends so that the plants
will not end up looking crowded.
Important: All of the metal should be cleaned prior to welding. A good wipe
down with acetone or lacquer thinner will remove the oil used in the metal
manufacturing process. Follow this with 120 grit sandpaper. If you don’t get rid
of the oil first, it will gum up the sandpaper immediately.
Start welding on the other struts and branches keeping in mind that balance is
important for free standing models as well as outdoor displays subject to high
winds.
However and wherever you decide to weld the struts, try to make sure the
holes for the PEX tubes line up as you go up the tree. PEX is a rather stiff tube
and doesn’t like to bend sharply. Go with the flow!
Rule #1: Don’t ever let the PEX kink or melt. If it does, you may have difficulty
getting the microtubes to pass through later. There is a way to get PEX to bend
at 90 degrees if you first bend it and feed it in like a corkscrew. Be extra careful
near the branch ends when the welds come especially close. If you mess up a
tube, don’t worry. You can replace a PEX tube any time before Step 9- the
foam. You’ll run a passage test before you get to the foaming part.
Step 6: Bend and weld till your heart’s content.
Here’s where you start welding on the ¼” HR steel rod. This requires a lot of
cutting, bending, and shaping before welding. Fortunately, the diameter of the
rod is only ¼” and since it is hot rolled (HR), you can bend it fairly easily by hand
or over your knee. Pre-bend as much as you can to fit the contours before
welding. After that you can bend as you go. Watch the oxyacetylene torch tip
when near the PEX and tack-and-let-cool when using the MIG.
*Make a bender for ¼” rod and photograph it here.
Since the rod defines the shape of the tree, it’s important that the rod is
carefully bent to follow the flow of the anticipated contours of your tree before
welding. Again, it’s best to tack weld these in place prior to full weld in case you
have to remove a piece here and there. As you move along, you’ll start to see
the flow of it all. Start with the four points of a compass to get an overview.
Here’s an overhead view of what’s happening.
The notches should be cut deep enough so that the ¼” rod does not extend out
beyond the perimeter of the struts. Line up the cuts as you proceed upward.
This series of photos to follow shows an example in a bare bones, 6 foot tall, 5
branch tree with no automatic watering system. There is no need to create a
void at the base of the trunk because there is no PEX or microtubing involved.
These are pretty easy to make for people who want to save cost by not having
the internal plumbing system.
Although these are basic trees, they still look very nice in a yard. Here’s what
this tree looked like when finished. The lady that commissioned this tree added
a nice touch with the ceramic bird.
This is a 6 foot tall tree with no plumbing system inside. The flowers are called
“Million Bells” and they come in a number of different colors. These require
very little care and are the easiest of all the petunias to manage. 10” pots.
Step 7: Install the microtube protective liner (PEX). Run a passage test
After all the branches are in place, you can determine the lengths of the PEX
tube needed for each branch. The PEX tubes must be continuous top to bottom
and should not ever be spliced inside the tree. The tube lengths should be from
the floor, through the tree, and extend 6-8” beyond the ends of the branches.
This is so that you don’t accidentally get concrete inside the tubes during the
concreting process. You will cut the tubes off after all the concrete has set.
Run your first 10 foot lengths of ¼” rod from the very bottom of what will
become the trunk of your tree all the way up to the ends of the branches (base
of the pin posts), cut off the excess, and tack weld. This could be as many as 15
ten foot lengths if doing an 8 foot tall tree. This will take care of most of the ¼”
rod needed for the trunk, but you will notice that it leaves a lot of open spaces
yet to be welded to the branches. This is where you will begin to cut the ¼”
steel lengths to proper size. All of your shorter scraps can be used anywhere
they will add strength and reinforcement.
The terminal ends of the branches should have only 4-5 rods welded near the
ends because that is all the space you will have available to achieve the
narrowest taper-to-branch-end possible while accommodating the plumbing.
You can weld the rod short of the end in spots to adjacent rods so as to create
as narrow a taper as possible to the ends of the branch. Any more than that
and your branches will look too fat on the ends. The ¼” rod doesn’t all have to
end up at the end of the branch. Leave comfortable space for the exit of your
PEX. Welding your last struts at least 16” from the base of the pin posts allows
for a nice taper to the ends of the branches on an 8 foot tree.
Weld short of the ends to maintain taper
Tack weld most of the ¼” rods at first in case you need to get back inside, but
leave open spaces in areas where you can still reach in to feed the PEX. You
want to get as much welding out of the way before you add the tubing because
of the risk of melting or deforming the PEX from the heat. Be cautious when
welding or using the oxyacetylene torch near to the PEX. It’s best to pry the PEX
tube away from any rod to be MIG welded using a flat head screwdriver or such.
Wait 30 seconds for the weld to cool before releasing the tube. When you get
to the ends of the branches and need to bend the rod using the oxyacetylene
torch, pull the PEX away from any risk. The greatest risk to the PEX is when you
get close to finishing all the welding. It’s no fun to have to go back in to feed in
a new PEX tube after all that work.
To follow are some photos to show you the process of incorporating the PEX.
Raw start. PEX tube holes in the struts are aligned for easy installation. Work
the ideal shape first. Tack weld so you can make changes easily. Weld on all the
remaining struts as described earlier. This is the start of the tree used in the
demo section at the 2012 World of Concrete Trade Show. You will see parts of
its progress.
Notice that the first 15 or so ¼” rods are welded all the way from the bottom
and are dispersed to the ends of all branches and that there is a space at the
bottom for the void. This dispersion takes care of most of the trunk, but leaves
a need to start filling in the rest of the branch spaces with shorter lengths.
Secure the PEX to the center rod with wire ties. Snip the excess wire tie. You
can pull the PEX in tight to the ½” rod by twisting rebar tie wire to snug them up
first before adding the plastic wire ties.
After securing all with wire ties, cut off the PEX so that only ½” extends into the
void at the base of the trunk. Allow about 8” to extend beyond the ends of the
branches. These will be taped off to prevent any foam or concrete from getting
inside in later steps. They will get cut off after the concrete sets.
Keep the rods somewhat in alignment. This helps you to follow the contours of
the branches and trunk. Shroud the void with thin sheet metal (.062”) as shown
above. This helps to keep out moles and voles that like to chew. Part of the
void will be underground. Primer paint the shroud inside and out to prevent
rust from forming.
Build up strength at the branch splits with shorter scraps.
This is a different tree than the one shown above, but I thought you might like
to see what a tree looks like with the rings attached. The pin posts and rings
must be bent so that they will be level. You don’t want the water to run to one
side. Time to run a microtube passage test to make sure there are no blockages.
Step 8: Lock in the PEX tube with foam. Fill and let harden.
If the micro tube passage test goes through well and there are no obstructions,
you are ready to lock everything in with the expandable foam. You can leave
the micro tubes inside if you wish. You definitely want to wear some protective
gloves for this foaming part. Surgical gloves do the job well. Also, wear a face
shield. You do not want to get the urethane foam in your eyes.
I found that loosely wrapping the tree with strips of cheesecloth helps to
contain the foam. Leave large gaps in between wraps so the foam has a place to
expand. Otherwise, it won’t harden in the middle. Here’s an example.
Loosely wrap with cheesecloth strips
What the foaming looks like
Start filling at the bottom. Follow the instructions on the can. Never try to fill
the foam overhead. Stand on a ladder. Wear old clothing that you don’t mind
ruining. This stuff is nasty to work with and difficult to remove from your
hands. Let harden overnight. Urethane foam won’t stick to HDPE (high density
polyethylene) plastic. Use this type of plastic as a drop cloth.
The next day, begin carving away the excess foam by following the lines of the
¼” steel rod. A sawzall goes quick for this step, but if you don’t have one, an old
serrated carving knife works well. I fine tune the sculpting with a snap off
blade tool. Cut through the gauze as well. Look for depressions or hollow
spots. You may wish to leave these areas filled. The foam can make up for bad
rod bends, which almost always happen. Now that the tree is solid, you will
begin to see areas needing improvement. Most often, it’s a branch that is too
fat in the wrong area. The foam is one way to correct a branch to proper taper.
One thing you don’t want is a secondary branch fatter than a primary branch.
The concrete process is another way that you can make corrections later.
You are bound to have open spots that you will notice after carving away the
first foam application. To keep the weight of the tree down to a minimum by
reducing the amount of concrete later, it’s best to go back and redo the foaming
process filling in all the small gaps and cavities. This allows for corrections.
Here’s an example.
This is the look after the first foaming and rough carving. Cut along the edge of
a single rod, not across the edges of two rods. Otherwise you leave flat spots
like this. Sculpt the foam to keep the branches round.
The next day re-foam to fill these small voids and pockets. Otherwise, these add up to
extra weight after the concrete is applied.
The finished look of the carved away foam. Notice the micro tubes sticking out.
Step 10: Laying on and sewing on the mesh. Spider lath?
Diamond lath expanded metal mesh is no fun to work with. It’s downright
dangerous stuff. Cuts to the hands are a constant threat, and no matter how
careful you are, cuts still seem to happen. Even worse, there is always the risk
of scratching the cornea of your eye. It’s best to wear heavy duty leather gloves
and a full face shield.
In strong favor of metal lath is that it adds structural strength to the tree
branches. Consider that a single 14” pot of Giant Pink Supertunias can weigh as
much as 40 pounds with the added weight of soil, water, and the extreme
amount of foliage the plant can produce over time. Giant Pinks can grow as
much as an inch per day and get to be over 6 feet long. Multiply that weight
times seven pots and the plant pots can match or exceed the weight of the tree
itself, and those branches are blowing in the breeze.
It is human nature to go directly to another substrate material that is easier and
faster. I learned about “Spider Lath” from Nathan Giffin while demonstrating
my Living Tree Art process in the Artistry Demo section at the 2012 World of
Concrete Trade Show as a result of winning the Project of the Year Award for
this floral fountain. The petals are individual sculptures made using metal lath.
Since I have never used Spider Lath before in making Living Tree Art, I have no
idea how well it will perform under the circumstances that apply to trees. It
appears to be an ideal substrate for Faux Rocks, but rocks never move and
aren’t subjected to the same stresses and strains as trees. This is unknown
territory. I do not purport to be an expert on the uses of metal lath or concrete.
I can only relate to you what I have used or done in the past that works.
With every single tree, I learn something new that makes the process faster or
the results better. I hope that this sense of exploration will be enjoyed by all
Vertical Artisans and that you are willing to share the knowledge you gain from
experimentation so that others can learn from your experience.
Back to the metal lath process.
I literally sew the lath on to the trees with a needle and thread, except the
“needle” is about 14 “ long made with 1/8” steel rod with an eyelet on one end
and a sharp point on the other. The “thread” I use is rebar tie wire.
I’ve tried a number of different ways to cut the metal lath into strips. Metal
shears work, but they are very hard on the hands. Electric scissors glop up right
away. What proved to work best is the 4-1/2” hand held grinder with a metal
cutoff wheel. Simply lay the lath on a work table lengthwise with a few inches
overhanging the edge of the table. Put weights on top of the lath to hold it
down. Start at the top and pull the cutting wheel through the lath as you walk
backwards. You can cut through it at almost a walking pace. Wear a full face
shield because it does throw bits of metal. I usually cut strips about 2-3 inches
wide to be used for wrapping the branches and 4 inches wide for the trunk. It’s
much easier doing the trunk because it’s wide open territory with no other
branches to get in the way.
The most difficult parts to cover are the cleavages between the bifurcations.
Every square inch of the tree that is going to have concrete applied must be
covered in lath. All wraps should overlap by ½”. It works best to cover these
difficult areas first. To follow are some photos of the metal lath after it is
attached.
It is imperative that the mesh be tightly wrapped around the tree so it can’t possibly slip
around on the frame. The sewing locks it in place.
Start wrapping the mesh at the base of the pin post at the end of a branch.
Make sure that the mesh covers all the way to the end of the branch and a little
beyond. It doesn’t matter if it looks perfect because you can always cut away
the excess mesh later. It’s easiest to start wrapping at the skinny end and work
toward the fat part of the branches. It helps if you secure the start of the wrap
with a tight twist of rebar tie wire.
Work the wrap around the branch in a corkscrew fashion overlapping ½” as you
go. This is where extra heavy duty leather gloves come in handy. You are going
to wear out a pair with a single tree. With the gloves, you can grip the mesh
tightly with both hands while twisting. It helps if all the twist wraps go in the
same direction on all the branches. Wear a face shield because the mesh has
very sharp edges.
To help keep the mesh tight as you go, make up some extra needles out of 1/8”
steel rod. For these, you won’t need to put in an eyelet. What these extra
needles are used for is to pierce the mesh about three inches from the end of
the wrap. Continue piercing into and through the foam when you reach the
end of a wrap. The needles work like a third hand to hold the mesh tightly in
place while you set up to add your next length of mesh. Put the start of the
next wrap under the tail end of the previous wrap and sew it in place. Once the
next length is secure, you can remove the needle. Proceed in this fashion.
In the photos to follow, notice the small holes drilled around the perimeter near
the base of the shrouded void. I ended up drilling more holes a little higher up
after this first photo was taken.
Here’s a close-up view.
One thing is for sure. This mesh isn’t going anywhere. Notice the sewing back
and forth through the tree and foam in the photo above.
The finished result with metal lath attached
If you plan to make a large tree that has proportionately large knotholes, this is
the time to attach a mesh sub-structure. For a tree this small, you can do
knotholes freehand.
Step 11: First fill coat of concrete. Scratch coat. Wet cure overnight.
The application of the first fill layer of concrete is pretty straight forward. Since
this is the foundation layer, you want to make sure the concrete gets fully and
deeply pressed into the mesh. The quality and type of concrete you elect to use
may vary. I’ve used Mapei’s tile mortar exclusively for seven years with good
results. The mix ratio is 1-1.5 gallons of water to 50 lbs. of cement powder.
Tend to the dryer side for the foundation layer; 2.6 ounces of water per pound
of powder will do fine.
To apply the concrete, use snug fitting gloves that have a coating on the inside
of the palms. This gives you a little more control by the snug fit and protects
your hands from cuts as you work the concrete firmly into the mesh. Here’s
what that type of glove looks like.
Work the concrete into the mesh starting at one point and make sure every
opening of the mesh is filled to capacity leaving no voids. It’s best to work
methodically doing only a small portion at a time. It’s best to work your way up
the trunk and onto the branches. Don’t get ahead of yourself.
If you prefer to have a sturdier and stronger foundation, there is a one
component, shrinkage compensated, fast setting, polymer modified
cementitious repair mortar with a corrosion inhibitor called Planitop X.
Although Planitop X is touted as sculptable after initial set, it isn’t what I would
call an ideal sculpture medium. It’s a bit loose and grainy. Once it fully hardens
though, it is rock solid. When wire buffed, it actually has the appearance of
granite and just as scratch resistant. The primary attributes of Planitop X is that
it sets up quickly to reduce working time, has excellent flexural strength, can
handle moist, humid, and even wet environments, doesn’t crack easily, and has
excellent resistance to freeze/thaw cycles. This is what I used to make the petals
on the aforementioned fountain and on the tree I used as an example in the
Artistry in Concrete demonstration at the 2012 World of Concrete Trade show.
Because Planitop X adheres tenaciously to existing concrete and has high build
capability, it is used for repairs to places like broken corners of concrete steps.
Some teenagers climbed up into one of my older trees once and did a little
damage. The resultant force on the end of a branch caused a small amount of
the tile mortar to break away near where the branch split. Because Planitop X
has a pot life of only six minutes, it makes for a quick and easy strong repair.
Because Planitop X doesn’t lend itself to texturing as would be the case for tree
bark, I use it only for its structural strength in the foundation layer. Basic tile
mortar seems to work well for creating the bark texture and can be applied
directly onto the Planitop X within minutes.
Since Planitop X sets up quickly, it’s best to mix smaller quantities that can be
applied in six minutes. Ice water helps to increase working time by up to a few
minutes. I found that the most I could mix and use in the time allotted is 12
pounds, and that’s with two people applying the cement. The mixing ratio is 11.125 gallons of water to 50 pounds of powder. I mix on the high water end to
increase slump which makes it easier to spread.
What if I want to mix up only 10 pounds of powder? How do I know how much
water is needed? There is a proportion formula that has many applications in
art, but the math makes it a bit confusing. All you need to know is to use 2.9
ounces of water for every pound of Planitop X cement powder. I use an
accurate scale (Pelouze Brand) that measures in tenths of an ounce.
Planitop X is not as easy to mix as is tile mortar. The proportions of cement to
water have to be fairly accurate. According to Tech Support, going outside the
set parameters can alter the properties. You especially do not want to add
more water after it is mixed. The powder has to be poured into the water
slowly as it is being mixed, not the other way around. It takes a while for the
water to work its way into the powder. Adding too much powder at one time
can put some serious strain on a ½” drill. I generally add ½ of the needed
amount of concrete to the full amount of water necessary, mix, then keeping
adding and mixing ½ of what’s left incrementally until it is fully mixed. It helps if
two persons assist in the mixing process. This way, one can start to apply the
concrete while the other cleans up the tools. That is something you want to do
right away when working with Planitop X.
Whether you use tile mortar or Planitop X for the foundation layer, always do a
scratch coat before the concrete sets too hard, especially if you plan to leave the
first layer of Planitop X dry out overnight. This will give the next texture layer
something to bite into.
Do a scratch coat before the concrete sets up. If working outdoors, the surface
may dry out quickly. The scratch coat will give the next and final bark texture
layer something to bite into. After the tree is completely covered and scratch
coated, do a wet cure overnight by wrapping all the branches and trunk in wet
towels.
To make a scratch coat, simply scratch away the excess concrete down to the
mesh. It’s important to take it down to the mesh or you may end up losing the
intended dimensions or taper. I use the raw edge of a piece of metal mesh to
do the scratching. To follow is what a scratch coat looks like on the start of a
different sculpture.
The scratch coat gives bite to the next layer
Step 12: Rub and scrub. Texturing techniques. How to make a very realistic
looking knothole in 30 seconds. Wet cure overnight.
The next day, the concrete should be hardened enough to begin the bark
texturing layer. If the first layer is dry, spray it lightly with water to make the
surface moist, but not wet. This is referred to as SSD (saturated surface dry).
The surface should not glisten. Follow the instructions on the bag carefully.
You can download a full instructional pdf on Planitop X on the internet.
To mix the cement for the bark texturing layer, follow the water to cement mix
ratio, but continue to gauge the ultimate best mix by eye. It’s pretty much like
making whipped cream. Adjust the cement to water mix so that when you pull
the mixing paddle away, it leaves peaks that just bend over slightly at the tips.
Mix at a reasonable speed so as to not aerate the concrete.
First do a thorough rub-and-scrub coat starting on any one branch until the
branch is fully covered with a thin layer of concrete. Press the concrete well
into the scratch coat until it all feels thin and smooth. Complete the bark
texturing process on only one branch at a time. Now you are ready to create
the bark texture.
With both hands full of concrete, cup both sides of a branch and swipe a layer
down from the end of a branch in what feels between your hands to be evenly
about ¼” thick all around. It doesn’t have to be perfect. This is when you can
make corrections by filling voids or hollow spots on your tree to make the
branches taper properly. Stand back and take a look all around, then add or
scrape away as needed.
With the ¼” layer started, dip your hands into the bucket pulling out about a
half handful in each hand. Smoosh your hands together lightly and pull them
apart to make peaks. Now you are ready to make bark.
The bark-like texture is created by light contact between the concrete on your
hands coming in contact with the fresh layer of concrete you just applied. As
you move your hands down on opposite sides of the branch, lightly touch the
tree briefly in many places using different parts of your hands and fingers so as
to deliver some concrete while pulling some off the tree. This grab-and-pull
method will leave high places with valleys in between. If it doesn’t look good,
go back over it until it does look to your satisfaction. Again, do only one branch
at a time. The reason for this is that the high points or tips of the concrete will
dry out quickly. These create small crumbles that interfere if you try to go back
over them. Don’t spend too much time worrying about these little peaks. You
will knock them off later after they harden.
There is another way to make bark using rollers that were created by a mold
making process using silicone on real tree bark. These specialized rollers are
available for sale. Contact Nathan Giffin for more information on bark rollers.
Making knotholes:
This is the most fun part of doing the bark. If you are planning to make a large
knothole for a large tree, you will need to prepare a substructure with mesh.
Otherwise, you can do smaller knotholes freehand.
Remember, knotholes represent branches that were cut or broken off at some
time. The size of the knothole should be relative to the size of the tree and
other branches. Sometimes branches are purposely cut off by an arborist to
allow better growth. Knotholes can be used to tell a story about your tree.
The slump factor is important when making knotholes. The slump is actually a
test that I used to run at a plant that manufactured large concrete drain pipes.
It’s not very scientific. Slump is determined by filling an open bottom, fixed
diameter canister with concrete. When you lift the canister, the concrete
settles. The slump is the measure of the difference in the height of the concrete
relative to the height of the canister. Slump relates to the ratio of water to
concrete powder. The more water, the more it slumps. When making
knotholes, you want the concrete to slump just enough. After you play with it a
bit, you’ll see what I mean.
The large knothole on the far right tree required a substructure because of size.
To make a knothole, you simply work an amount of concrete into a snake as
best you can with your fingers. It’s not easy to do because the concrete is so
sticky. Stick the head of the snake onto the fresh concrete at the top of
wherever you think a knothole might tell the story about the life of your tree.
Once the leading edge sticks to the concrete, keep feeding more concrete
counterclockwise as you stick and feed more of the snake to the tree. You
might want to go clockwise if you are left handed. Whatever works for you is
good. Once you complete the circle, stand back and look at your knothole as it
settles in. If it looks good, keep it. If not, swipe it away and try again until it
slumps into the perfect knothole. Sometimes it takes a few tries. If the
knothole droops too much, or not enough, alter the slump factor. Don’t try to
overwork the knotholes. They will quite often come out perfect the first time
with a little practice. If you overwork them, they will begin to look less natural.
Do the knotholes last, after the bark is finished.
When all the bark looks like you want and all the knotholes are finished, let the
concrete set up. When the concrete is firm enough, wrap the branches and
trunk in wet cloths. Allow to wet cure overnight or longer.
Tile mortar takes 28 days to firm up completely, but this doesn’t mean you have
to wait that long to plant your tree. Just understand that you do not want to
pick your tree up by the ends of the branches. The forces applied may crack
your fresh concrete. Always handle your tree at the beefier parts when moving.
If you have to transport your tree, as may be the case when you deliver to the
intended location, be sure to keep the weight off the branches.
I use my motorcycle trailer to haul the trees. It’s a bit bouncy, but works fine.
A finished 8 foot tall tree like this would weigh in the vicinity of 120-150 pounds.
Step 13: Rubdown to knockdown burrs and imperfections.
After the tree has wet cured for at least a day, let it dry out. Then take a short
length of bar stock or rebar and with both hands, and rub it firmly all over the
tree. This will knock off any burrs and flatten some areas making the bark look
a bit more realistic. Don’t worry that this lightens the color as you will be
painting or tinting your tree after this short step. Knock down any part you
think is necessary. The concrete is still quite soft at this point. Don’t put too
much pressure near the ends of the branches.
Step 14: Bark painting and coloring techniques.
Items you will need are:
Needle bottle
Sea sponge as well as a good absorbing sponge.
Acrylic paints- Burnt Umber, Raw Umber, Burnt Sienna, and Ultramarine Blue.
Tints (optional if you prefer them over pigment)
Stiff brush
Pressurized water pump sprayer bottle
Regular spray/mist bottle (like an old Windex bottle)
Paper towels
Rounded bottom containers to hold and mix the paint.
Water source
Wire brush
Future © Floor Shine (optional)
Painting of the concrete to simulate bark can be done with tints or pigments.
Tints come in a number of colors made for faux rocks, but some of the same
colors work just as well for bark. The natural gray color of the concrete is also a
background color that can be allowed to show through the thin transparent
colors. Many bark types are mostly gray in color with some having brownish
aspects. I use acrylic paints with color choices like Burnt Umber, Raw umber,
Burnt Sienna, and Ultramarine Blue. I suggest picking up watercolor books to
study because there is little difference between acrylic paint and watercolor
paints as they are both water media. The names of the colors are the same. In
the books, you will find out that there is an incredible number of ways to create
browns and greys that will match the color of any tree. Acrylics are UV stable.
A lot of it is experimentation. Here are a couple of the colors I use. Compare
them to the photos of actual tree bark to follow.
To follow are photos of various types of trees like white birch, maple, oak, red
pine, white pine, and aspen that offer a few of many possibilities for color and
texture.
Small plastic bottles with various hollow needle sizes can be purchased at some
local art supply stores. These are quite often used for watercolor painting. A
larger gauge needle (12-16 gauge) works best. Smaller needles tend to clog too
easily. Squeeze carefully with the larger needles because the dispensing rate is
faster. Here’s what one of those bottles looks like.
Needle bottle
Sea sponges are often used for watercolor painting. They can be used for
dispensing the paint and for absorbing excess paint. Regular kitchen sponges
work better for absorbing excess paint.
To start, I mix equal parts of Ultramarine Blue with Burnt Umber to make black.
You can adjust the mixture to favor the Burnt Umber if you wish to make a very
dark brown. Add a little water to thin. This is the color I start with to create
depth to the bark. Adding more water makes a grayish color. Fill the needle
bottle with the mix.
With the tree lying on its side, begin dispensing the dark color in the deeper
cracks so it runs longitudinally up and down. Bark patterns usually run vertically
depending on the species, except around a knothole. Any pigment that runs
sideways may look odd unless it is around a knothole. Look around your
neighborhood at different trees for examples.
Dispense small amounts of the pigment deep into the cracks. This tricks the eye
into making the bark look deeper by creating what looks like dark shadows.
With the tree on its side, work on the highest side of the tree trunk and
branches so the pigment is trapped within the crack and cannot drip sideways.
If you make a mistake, spray the pigment away immediately with the
pressurized sprayer because the pigment sets pretty fast. Start again in a dry
area until the area you just sprayed dries out. Vary the color mixes. Always
start out working in dry cracks. Otherwise the paint will run. You can soften
the hard lines of the black paint by spraying lightly with a misting bottle, but
don’t make the surface too wet, or the paint might get out of the crack and start
to run sideways. When the paint sets up enough so it can’t run, continue
rotating the tree so as to always work on the high side. Be careful not to put
too much pressure on any one branch when you rotate the tree, especially if the
concrete is fairly fresh. Always pick up your tree by the beefier parts.
When all the deep fissures have paint in them, you can start applying the other
colors. Go back to the cracks later if you need to enhance the shadows. Mix up
some color with a little water. Filter the paint if it has lumps in it. Put this in a
spray bottle. The application of paint from this point is coloration by
cumulative effect. Each layer of paint adds to darken the previous layer. It’s a
lot like doing what are referred to as “washes” with watercolor painting.
When you are finished with all the cracks and fissures, set the tree back up
vertically on your work stand. Spray the tree with the misting bottle with the
paint in it and then immediately wipe away the pigment on the high, flat
surfaces. You want these surfaces to maintain the natural gray coloration of the
concrete with just a hint of pigment here and there. Allow some pigment to
settle into the deep fissures and cracks where you applied the black earlier.
Keep applying pigment with the spray while wiping off the surfaces with the
sponge. After each sponging, allow the pigment to set for a minute or two. This
will allow some of the pigment to accumulate in the fissures. Allow some of the
black to show through. If you happen to wait too long, and the paint has set up
too much, wet the stiff brush in clean water and lightly scrub away some of the
surface paint. Continue this apply and wipe method until the tree bark looks
the right color to you. You can always add more at a later time. The pigment
always dries to a lighter color.
When the tree bark is complete, you can lightly wire brush any surfaces that are
too dark. Don’t try to be too uniform with your coloration or it won’t look
natural.
Sometimes I spray on a layer of Future© Floor Shine when all the bark coloring
is finished. It’s a clear acrylic polymer that makes the tree look permanently
wet. It also darkens the color. You can re-apply the clear whenever you think
necessary, or just let it wear away naturally.
Step 15: Make the rings to hold the pots. Build a bending jig.
The diameter of the steel rod used to make the rings should be relative to the
size of the pot you intend to use. I have made rings for table top models to hold
pots as small as 2” diameter on up to 12 foot tall trees with 14” diameter pots.
As a general rule, the bigger the pot, the bigger the diameter of the rod you will
need to support it.
For most trees up to four feet tall, I generally build the ring as part of the tree
framing and not as an accessory attachment. These types of rings do not swivel
as they remain permanently fixed in position. You can still bend them around to
improve the display though, if you need to. If you plan to make a tree whereby
the look of the tree can be changed with other than pots of foliage or flowering
plants, you will need to make the rings removable from the pin posts by bolt-on
means. That part is coming up.
¼” rod is plenty strong enough to hold pots up to 8” in diameter. After that, the
weight of the pot may cause the ring to droop. Up to a point, you can
compensate for the weight of the pots by pre-bending the rings slightly upward
so that when the pot goes in, it all ends up being level. You don’t want the
water in your pot to run to one side during watering times or you might end up
with dry spots in the soil. You want the roots of the plants to be uniformly
moist.
For rings to hold pots 10”-12” in diameter, you will want to go to 3/8” HR steel
rod. For 14” pots, go to 3/8” Cold Rolled steel rod or even ½” HR steel rod. 14”
pots can get to be pretty heavy.
The diameter of the pots can vary by manufacturer. What some refer to as 12”
pots might actually only be 11”. Some go by the size of the bowl, others by the
outside of the lip. In any case, you want to make sure that the pot has a lip
around the outside so it can’t fall through when placed inside the ring. Here’s
how I determine the length of rod needed to make a ring.
Take a length of non-stretchy string, like jute, and wrap it around the entire pot
just under the lip until the ends of the string overlap. Make a mark with a felt
tip pen across both parts of the string at some point in the overlap. Lay the
string out on a table and measure the distance between those two marks. That
length will be equal to the circumference of the pot. Add 4 inches to that
measurement and you will know how long to cut the rods to make the rings,
one for each branch.
Stick the first few inches into the ring making jig and heat the steel with the
torch as you bend it around the ring as seen in the next photo. I made this jig
using an old 10” saw blade. The bottomside posts hold it in the vise.
Step 16: The automatic watering system. What you will need to order. Where
to go to get what you need.
The benefits of drip irrigation can be useful for any residential, commercial or
agricultural installation, and may be critical for cities and municipalities that
face water restrictions while aspiring to maintain or expand their green areas.
The automatic watering system is a Godsend for outdoor Living Tree Art. I
generally recommend it for any trees over 8 feet. An 8 foot tall tree seems to be
the smallest tree that can incorporate an “autowater” system without the tree
branches looking too fat. I did make a tree once without the 3/8” PEX tube
protective liner so that I could incorporate the plumbing system into a smaller
tree. Big mistake! One of the small plastic T connectors happened to break
inside the foam. It doesn’t make your day when you see a leaky branch after all
that work.
The protective 3/8” PEX tube liners make it easy to replace any tube on any
branch at any time. Sometimes, things happen that are outside your control
and Living Tree Art is designed to minimize problem areas and allow for
replacement or repairs on any aspect. Without the autowater system, the
customer has to get out a hose every day, sometimes twice a day on hot, windy
days, and must never forget to water. One forgetful day and they can lose up
to $250 worth of flowers and possibly the balanced look of the display for a
season. It’s not easy to find seven of the same plants in the same size pots after
the greenhouse grower’s season is on the wane.
The autowater system consists of a programmable timer that opens and closes
the valve, a backflow preventer (code requirement in some circumstances), a
filter, pressure regulator, line reducer, barbed tee connectors, microtubing, “V”
stakes, pressure compensating drip emitters, a “Y” valve, more PEX (1/2”), and
PEX quick connectors. All must be connected to a permanently charged,
dedicated water supply. It sounds like a lot, but total cost with shipping
included is less than $100.
I sometimes build a wood box with a locking latch for security to house all of the
above ground elements if you can’t conceal the autowater system behind
bushes or elsewhere. This is to prevent someone from accidentally or purposely
tampering with the system. It happens most often with kids, or when someone
uses the hose faucet for some other purpose and is not familiar with the
system. Here’s a drawing to show the entire autowater system from the water
source up to the tree:
To follow is a breakdown of each component to explain how and why it is used
starting at the water supply source and on to the tree.
The water source is usually a standard faucet. So as to not interrupt service to
other areas needing a water supply, you will need to install a “Y” valve. The
brass Y valves are a bit more expensive than the plastic, but I prefer them by
reason of quality and reliability. Some even have an eyelet which helps to wire
them open. Wire ties will work. Each side has a separate control lever.
Standard 3/4 “ MHT (male hose thread) Y valve
I wire the one side of the “Y” valve dedicated to feed the system so it can’t be
accidentally or purposely turned off ( by vandals or pranksters) and also put up
a small sign saying, “Do not turn valve off!” It’s a good idea to wire the faucet
handle itself to a permanently open and charged system, or remove the handle
entirely just to make sure the system is never shut down. You can still provide
normal service with the other lever as needed.
I prefer PEX Push-fit connectors coming off the Y valve because they allow for a
quick disconnect of the system if you wish to store the autowater system over
the winter months. These can be purchased to work in many different
applications and are available from a number of hardware chain stores.
The next item down the line is ½” PEX tubing. How much length you will need
depends upon how far away the tree will be from the source. You may only
need enough to run to a security box to house the autowater essentials.
There is friction even in a water line, especially if the line is small. Sixty feet is
the maximum recommended distance you can run a micro tube from a water
source and still have enough pressure to water all branches of the tree equally.
You can however, increase the distance by running a ½” PEX tube to a point
closer to the tree (or with a standard hose). Use PEX if you wish to bury the
supply line up to the start of the micro tube.
Next in line is the programmable timer that turns the water supply on and off at
preset times. This hose thread timer (connectable to a faucet or garden hose)
has a flow rate of up to 5.2 GPM or 312 gallons per hour. Its features include a
large LCD display with AM/PM clock, 4 start times per day, watering duration
from one minute to eleven hours and 59 minutes in one-minute increments, 7
day programming schedule or cyclical from 3 hours up to 30 days, irrigation
suspension override (rain mode) and more. It can be connected directly to the
faucet or at the end of a standard garden hose if you wish to increase supply to
a greater distance. This programmable timer runs off of one 9 volt battery that
can last for one to two years. I recommend changing it every year. For the cost
of one battery, it’s not worth the risk of it running out of juice. These come with
a very easy to understand instruction manual and have proved to be reliable.
Programmable time
The next item in the lineup is a backflow preventer. These may be required by
code if you are running the autowater system from a faucet on a commercial
building or if you are incorporating an automatic nutrient feed system to your
plants. A backflow/check valve acts as a one-way valve, allowing water to move
in one direction only and prevents back siphoning of non-potable water into the
water lines. Backflow devices are required by many municipalities and it is a
regulatory provision that there be an air gap or mechanical backflow prevention
assembly between the incoming main water supply and the local point of
irrigation usage; it is highly recommended to install one. By installing a backflow
device you help to protect the health of your household, neighborhood and
community.
An automatic nutrient feed system is not appropriate for watering just one tree
because the amount of water delivered is insufficient to justify the need for a
nutrient feed system. However, if you have built a large display that might
incorporate Living Tree Art in amongst faux rocks with many other living plants,
then it might work for you. Check with your supplier for best results and
limitation guidelines. The company source I recommend has a good tutorial
that explains all that you will need to know about this and any other system you
might wish to incorporate in your display.
Backflow preventer
Downstream of the backflow preventer is the filter. The filter screens are
readily accessible for easy removal and cleaning. This type of filter includes a
female hose thread inlet and male hose thread outlet.
Screen filters are the most common filters used in the irrigation industry and in
most cases the least expensive. They are generally used as a backup for any type
of drip irrigation installation and are mainly installed where the quality of water
is good. Screen filters are excellent for removing hard particulates from water,
such as sand and other small elements that are often found in city water.
Filter
Next in line after the filter is the pressure regulator. The ¾” FHT (Female Hose
Thread) x MHT (Male Hose Thread) pressure regulator is used to adjust the
incoming pressure of up to 100 PSI to a downstream pressure of 25 PSI
providing consistent pressure along the line with a flow rate of up to 8 gallons
per minute. Normal output pressure of most homes is about 60 PSI, but it can
vary considerably.
Pressure Regulator
Pressure regulators prevent high pressure from going through the pipe and
adversely affecting the system performance or inflicting damage to the piping,
valves, drip system or sprinkler system. The pressure regulators are a critical
part of a drip and other irrigation systems when water pressure is higher than
suggested for the operation of the system. In order to use a pressure regulator,
the incoming pressure to the system must be higher than the system
requirements.
For example, if a specific drip irrigation system performs best at 25 PSI and the
incoming pressure is 50 PSI, the pressure will need to be lowered to the
recommended pressure of 25-PSI.
Next, you will reduce the larger supply line down to the micro tube feed line.
Line reducer/compression adapter
Connect the line reducer to the Male Hose Threads of the pressure regulator.
The maximum distance recommended that you can run to a tree using only the
microtube is 60 feet. The ¾” female hose thread x ¼” compression adapter is
used as part of a drip system connection to a faucet or any hose thread that
uses the ¼” micro tubing as the main line. This adapter can be used with ¼”
micro tubing only for a drip irrigation system to water potted plants, boxes and
containers. It’s not appropriate for large sprayers due to insufficient delivery,
but will work for micro sprayers and micro sprinklers.
Micro tubing
Simply force the open end of the micro tubing into the opening in the line
reducer until it just passes the opening by about ¼”. The drip line connects to
the line reducer by a compression fit. Refit the screen back into position.
Force the micro tube into the line reducer about ¼”
Available in lengths of 50', 100’, 500’, 1000’ and 3,000', the micro tubing is used
for a wide range of applications. The 1/4” micro tubing can be used as a feeder
line off of 1/2" poly tubing to extend distance for drip emitters or micro
sprinklers.
This micro tubing will run underground all the way to the tree. Since it runs
underground, you will have to protect it from critters that like to chew, like
voles and moles. I choose to go with ½” PEX because the micro tubing is easier
to feed though over a greater distance by reason of the larger diameter. You
will never see it anyway. Also, the larger diameter makes it difficult for moles
and voles to get their mouths wide enough to do damage. If you need to splice
two lengths together, simply feed the micro tube through the PEX first and then
tape the splice with a good quality tape like Gorilla Tape or electrical tape.
Once you run your supply line up to the base of the tree, you will need to
disperse the water supply to each branch. The entire tree is supplied by a single
micro tube. This single micro tube gets split up multiple times by means of
Barbed Tee Connectors and/or Barbed Cross Connectors.
Barbed Tee and Barbed Cross Connectors
Water can be dispersed to each branch from the base of the tree using all Tee’s
or all Cross connectors, or a number of combinations of the two. Here are a
couple possibilities to serve the needs of a seven branch tree.
All of these connections are housed inside the void at the base of the tree.
Since the base of the tree is partially buried, you never see any of these
connections. It’s important that none of these lines get crimped or any of the
connectors get broken when you lower the tree into final position. You will run
a test anyway after the tree is in place to ensure that water is passing through
all the lines. If one is compromised, simply correct the problem by rearranging
the lines or replacing a connector.
If you haven’t done so already in an earlier step, feed an appropriate length of
micro tube through the PEX starting at the ends of each branch until it comes
out through the bottom of the trunk. Leave about 18” hanging out both ends.
You will be making connections at both ends. Here’s a drawing of that.
Start by putting together the bottom connections that will be contained within
the void. Ensure that the end of the micro tube is pushed fully on to the barbed
connections. Dipping them first in hot water makes them go on easier. It may
seem that the line that has the fewest number of splits will have more water
delivered to the ends of the branch. You would be correct in that assumption.
Let me explain why it doesn’t matter.
The pressure and amount of water delivered is far above the service needs even
though the source water pressure has been reduced down to 25 PSI. As long as
the distance to the tree and size of the tubing is kept within reason, there will
be plenty of water delivered to the ends of the branches. It is so much overkill
that you could supply water for other of your customers’ needs to satisfy not
only the Living Tree Art, but all other aspects including their garden, hanging
plants, etc.
“Pressure Compensating Drip Emitters” are the last item in line to deliver water
directly to the plants. I choose “pressure compensating” because they are selfcleaning drip emitters that ensure even and consistent flow of water from each
drip emitter along the line regardless of water pressure fluctuations related to
elevations and topographical conditions along the drip laterals. There is enough
pressure going into each emitter that they all emit the same amount of water to
the top branches as well as the lower branches.
Pressure compensating drip emitter
The micro tubes at the ends of the branches will get split yet again using either
the Tee connectors or the Cross connectors. These will deliver water to
different areas of the pots. The reason for the two-way or three-way split is to
ensure that water is delivered to more parts of the soil in the pot so that there
will be no dry spots. This type of drip emitter will each deliver precisely ½
gallon of water per hour (GPH). Larger delivery systems for sprayers and
sprinklers are measured in gallons per minute (GPM).
A ½ GPH drip emitter calculates out to 1.07 ounces of water dispensed per
minute. They are quite accurate as long as no dirt or sand gets into the system,
which is why you have a good filter near the source. The tiny orifice in the drip
emitter could be seriously affected by a single grain of sand which is why you
want to be careful not to get dirt into the lines when making your connections.
Don’t worry. You are going to clear all the lines first before making the
connections to the drip emitters.
Since you know that each drip emitter will deliver 1.07 ounces per minute, if
you multiply 1.07 times the number of drip emitters to each pot, you will know
the number of minutes to preset the timer. This tells you accurately how much
water you are putting into each pot every minute of every time the valve is set
to open. The timer can be set to open the valve up to four times per day on any
given day and every day of the week depending on how you elect to program it.
Considering that the programmable timer has the capability of moving 5.2 GPM
or 312 gallons per hour, and a tree with a total of seven branches with two drip
emitters per pot is actually delivering a grand total of slightly less than two cups
of water per minute to the entire tree, there is plenty enough capability to
service much more in a person’s yard.
I install two drip emitters for 8”-12” pots and three to a 14” pot. If a spot in
your soil goes dry, surface tension makes it difficult for water to re-penetrate
those areas. For this reason, I like to give my plants sips of water each time
sufficient to keep the soil moist, but not wet, throughout each day. That way, I
know there will be little chance for dry spots to develop. This is why it’s
important to make sure your plant pots are level when the pots are in the rings.
Every plant is different in the amount of water and nutrients it needs. “Giant
Pink Supertunias” guzzle water and love high quantities of Nitrogen and Iron in
amounts that would OD other plants. “Million Bells,” on the other hand, can be
watered once per day and require minimum fertilization. Adjust the pots and
rings to level when the pots are moist and at their heaviest.
Special UV resistant plastic stakes are designed to hold the drip emitters
precisely where you want to dispense the water in the pots. Split the distance
between the emitters so that they dispense to areas of the pot equally, not too
close together, and not too close to the sides. Here’s what the stakes look like.
6” Stake for ¼” Micro tube
Here’s a drawing of where to implant the stakes so you get the best dispersion
of water to each pot.
Overhead view of drip emitter locations
It’s a good idea to be cognizant of weather. If it is predicted that the weather
will be hot and windy over the next few days, kick your timer up a notch by
adding a minute or few to compensate.
So, how do you know initially where to set the timer since all plants are
different in their rate of consumption? To establish a baseline, what I do is
flood all the pots until water starts pouring out the overflow at the bottom of
the pot. Wait 15 minutes and do it again. A more certain way is to immerse the
entire plant in a tank of water and wait until all the bubbles stop rising. This
ensures that there are no dry spots anywhere in the soil to start. Some plants
are a bit too large for this approach, especially if they are further along in their
growth.
When you know that all the plants are fully soaked, let them go without water
until you notice that the leaves are starting to droop on all the plants. This may
take a day or so depending on the weather, humidity, and wind. If one is
drooping and the others aren’t, it might be a sign that the plant has a problem
in the soil. Usually, if you purchase your plants at the same time from the same
source, and they are all in the same size pots, they should all start drooping at
around the same time.
When all the plants are droopy, set your programmable timer for an extended
period so you know it will deliver water well beyond what the plants need to
get thoroughly soaked (20 minutes will do it). Hit the start override button and
then start your stopwatch. The timer comes with good instructions. Mark the
time when you see the first pot starting to drip out the overflow at the bottom
of the pot. Continue to record the time until the last pot starts to overflow.
The narrower this parameter of time, the better. This indicates a balanced
system. If one plant takes far longer to start to overflow, it might be an
indication of a pinched line, defective or clogged drip emitter, or even the
amount of soil in the pot differs from the others. If so, check all the lines and
emitters, and add more soil to each of the pots until they are even and then
perform a drip emitter test.
If the parameter of time is close, then set the timer to dispense at just below
the level where the pots first started to drip. This way you will know that all the
pots are getting plenty of water, but not so much that it will flush out the
bottom any fertilizer you may have added.
I recommend adding fertilizer to your plants once a week unless the type of
plant requires more fertilizer. A 20-20-20 fertilizer blend is a good, middle-ofthe-road concentration to use. Plants like Giant Pink Superunias can be
fertilized even more often with an even higher concentration on the Nitrogen
end like 30-10-10. Before adding fertilizer, hit the override button on the timer a
few times until all the pots are overflowing. When the overflow stops, add an
amount of fertilizer. This way you know that the fertilizer is well dispersed to all
to all the roots and that there are no dry spots.
To test the delivery of your drip emitters to determine if any are defective,
simply set the timer to several minutes and collect all the water dispensed over
that amount of time in a measuring cup. The combined amount delivered to
each branch should be the same. If not, find and replace the defective emitter
using the same measuring technique with each individual emitter. Although
rare, I have found defective drip emitters as a result of sitting idle over winter
near a highway where dust and dirt can collect and harden in the orifice. I
recommend re-testing at the start of each season or replacing the drip emitters
every couple years just to be sure. They are pennies per anyway.
Before attaching any of the drip emitters, run clear water through the system
first to clear the lines of any sand or debris. To do this quickly and easily, you
can bypass the entire autowater system by connecting a garden hose directly to
the line reducer. Let all the lines hang down from the branch ends. Turn the
faucet on. Look to make sure water is coming out of the ends of all the micro
tubes. There will be less water coming out the higher micro tubes because of
the difference in elevation. When you are sure all the lines are clear of any
debris or sand, turn off the water and connect the drip emitters.
There are many companies that provide irrigation systems. You can find drip
and other irrigation systems in many major hardware outlets like Lowes, Home
Depot, and Menards. Due to variances in some materials, I do not recommend
mixing and matching from different sources. My source for everything to date is
called The Drip Store. The address is:
The Drip Store
980 Park Center, Ste. E
Vista, CA 92081
Tel: 760-597-1669 : Toll Free: 877-597-1669 Fax: 760-597-1673
They are an internet supplier only. Go to www.Dripirrigation.com. They have
an excellent online pdf tutorial as well as Tech Support. Their prices are the
most reasonable I’ve found, and service is prompt.
Here is a list of all the items you will need to order for the autowater system.
Other items you will need like PEX, “Y” Valve, and Push-fit couplers, you can get
at your local hardware store
Step 17: Before planting the tree. What do I need to know? Where is the best
location? What questions should I ask my potential customer? What questions
should I ask myself? What are the Terms and Conditions of agreement that
outline responsibilities for both the purchaser and you as the contractor?
There are many factors that affect the choice of location where you might wish
to plant Living Tree Art. The most important of these are: the direction of the
prevailing wind, the soil or ground into which the tree will be planted, the best
viewing point, and space for the size of tree you intend to make. Remember,
there will be a much wider spread when the plants go in depending upon the
plant choice. Make sure it won’t end up looking cramped in a 90 degree corner.
If you are already familiar with the location where you wish to put up a tree as a
display to sell, you can make the tree any way you want. However, if the tree is
for a commission, there are a number of questions you will need to ask first.
Finding answers to the following set of questions will help to formulate an idea
as to what your customer might like to see in the end result. Only with an idea
as to how your tree would need to be constructed and delivered can you offer a
price. Every tree is different. They can be made to fit into any environment,
and every environment is different. You will need to prepare a pricing structure
that outlines to your customer what all charges may be. No customer likes
costly surprises and you don’t want to get caught with your pants down either.
Assure your customer that by answering these questions puts neither you nor
the customer under any obligation whatsoever. It is only for fact finding
purposes so that your customer is pleased with the end result. Knowing as
much ahead of time will ensure that everyone walks away happy and well
informed. Here are a few basic questions and some suggestions to get you
started. In time, you will add more. Share your situations with other Vertical
Artisan members so that they can be prepared for circumstances that may arise.
All of these situations are based on my own experience. I bring them up so that
you can avoid trouble spots before they happen while taking advantage of areas
that lead to profitability.
* Will the tree be displayed indoors or out? Is it intended to show
in full sun, partial shade, or shade?
This affects the type of plant you wish to use. Some flowering baskets love full
sun. Tropical plants favor shade. The customer’s choice of plant and size of
basket helps to determine the spread needed between branches as well as
clearance needed on the sides.
I have made trees in the past that are convertible from an outdoor display in the
summer to an indoor display in winter. Perhaps you noticed that there is a
parallel to all the anchoring systems? How you deal with that affects price.
Convertible capability is a good option to throw out to a customer because it
may result in collateral sales. An external display outside a shopping mall in the
summer season that can be taken inside for a completely different type of
indoor display in a subsequent wintry season might find favor with the right
shopping mall manager.
Offer up a small commission to your customers in case they happen to arrange a
sale because of their own tree. A surprising number of people passing by on a
road that happen to spot your Living Tree Art have no qualms about going into
other people’s yards to ask questions like, “What kind of tree is that? Where
can I go to get one?” Sometimes the desire to know about something
interesting that they’ve never seen before makes people bolder. People rarely
buy Living Tree Art for their own private viewing. They buy them to show off,
mostly in their front yards.
To ensure a good looking display at all times, seek locations that are either
protected from the prevailing winds by an edifice or wall, or at least that the
prevailing winds are coming in from the backside of the tree. When repeated
wind hits the front of the tree, it will over time spread apart the foliage or
flowers and expose the pots. With that, the allure by mystery is lost. You will
notice often that people will look (a bit sheepishly) under the plants because
they suspect that there is a secret to it all. Curiosity wins every time. People
think it’s pretty cool when they see how it’s done. One thing is for sure, you will
never tire of the compliments. They literally never stop coming.
I have an idea for a simple device that might keep the plant fronds from
separating as a result of the prevailing winds. Will need to test it first to find
out how well it will work before turning it over.
You can also do the equivalent of a comb-over like some balding men do. The
trick is to do it slowly so you don’t snap a frond. If there are bald spots on your
plants, turn those parts toward the inside of the tree where they are not in
view.
* How well does the piece need to be anchored? Will it be free standing
and balanced as in a table-top model, or deeply anchored into the earth
to withstand the potential for high winds? Is it going to be planted in
sand? What is the soil like? How tall would you like the top ring to be?
Size and number of branches is part of how price is considered. Complexity is
another pricing factor. If outside the size limitations of UPS or FedEx, the tree
may have to be shipped by common carrier. In this case, the tree will have to be
crated before shipping. What will be the cost of crating relative to the size of
the tree? What will be the transport costs? Is crating or packaging a third party
service charge? Will your customer pick it up and install it themselves? Do they
have the proper equipment to do so? If you are doing the hauling and
installation, what will you want to charge for the distance, your time, and
expenses?
Here is a photo of the partially completed, crated tree that I had shipped to Las
Vegas for the 2012 World of Concrete Trade show. This crate measured 53”H x
97”W x 49”D. I designed the crate so the tree could be hauled on its side
because the maximum height of a semi truck dry van is 117” tall and 102” wide.
It would be too tippy on its end and freight haulers don’t usually strap things
down inside a van. Everything arrived intact even though the forklift drivers
terrorized the crate.
*What if you run into underground rocks or other obstruction
to anchoring? How much do you charge for third party service
if you have to hire a backhoe or such?
I sold a 10 foot tall tree once to be installed in the central park of Stephenson,
Michigan. The park was built on top of what used to be a large stone building
that had been razed many years before. The rocks and concrete were busted up
and used as filler. Underground was a nightmare of large rocks, broken
concrete, and voids in between the rocks and concrete. I didn’t know any of
this, and neither did anyone else until I got started. The rule is CYA (Cover Your
Butt!) in advance of unknown circumstances. In this case, a front end loader had
to be brought in to move things around so we could properly anchor the tree.
Remember, always consider public safety first!
Very tall trees like palm trees that may have to be anchored in sand is going to
require much wider and deeper, and possibly more anchors. Consider all these
added costs.
* Who will be supplying the pots of flowers, tumbleweeds, pine
boughs, or other foliage? What is your cost for handling such? Are
you willing to provide continued plant care or future displays as an
accessorial service?
Sometimes you can work out a better price with your greenhouse supplier
because you are purchasing more plants at a time than most people. You can
relay the savings on to your customer to encourage the sale of a tree, or turn
the savings around for a profit to yourself.
Many people ask, “Where did you get your flowers?” Sometimes you can
request a premium discount for offering referrals to the place of business where
you purchased your plants. My customers tend to want to purchase their
plants and flowers at the same place as me because they know I look for the
most reliable grower with the healthiest plants, and they know I’ve done the
research. That can mean a lot of extra business to your supplier.
You may be able to work out a special arrangement to get your plants or flowers
for free for a tree that will go on public display in trade for a small placard that
temporarily advertises your plant supplier. I have worked out arrangements
where I supply a tree for the front of a business if the business owner buys the
flowers for the season. Make the business owner understand that the display
is temporary, and for sale.
You will find that you will have absolutely no trouble finding businesses or
residential areas with lots of highway traffic that are willing to display one of
your trees for free. Pick out some choice spots. It’s great advertising for you
and most certainly draws attention to the business which can lead to a sale to
that business. The businesses are often reluctant to let a tree go at the season
end after they find out how much attention it draws to their business. Most will
allow you to put your business cards in a protected holder under the tree.
Taking charge of handling plant care on such displays means you are in control
of what others get to see. Not everyone is as dutiful as you might be. Beautiful
displays in public places are very strong ways to attract more business to you.
If you live in cold country where the greenhouse grower’s season is short, order
your plants well ahead of the season to be sure you will get what you need.
Where I live in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, I order mine in February. Make
sure your plant supplier marks your plants as yours and not to be sold to anyone
else. When people walk into a greenhouse grower on Mother’s Day, and
especially on Memorial Day, and see a long row of beautiful plants in a
greenhouse, they can be pretty demanding. They know those plants are not
going to be hanging there much longer. If you ordered extra early, your plants
will likely be the most fully developed. One plant short on your tree can be like
a piece of pepper in a beautiful woman’s smile. A part time worker in the
greenhouse may relent under pressure and might sell off part of your display
leaving you short. Be strict in this regard with your supplier. Seven baskets of
the same plant in the same size pots can be hard to find in late season.
People tend to wait until the last minute to order a tree, and then want it
yesterday. If a person shows interest at any time, work to seal the deal by
getting them to order their plants immediately for the same reason stated
earlier. Some growers require a down payment before they will grow that
many of the same plant. Once people put money down, it’s hard for them to
back out. Offering a discount to your customers for a non-rescindable early
order may help. Inform your customers that once you order supplies to make a
tree, it’s a done deal.
*Do you have a favorite tree? Will you be able to supply photos
from different angles?
Most people don’t spend a lot of time looking at trees, but if you plant that seed
in their minds, they will be on the lookout. Since most people have digital
cameras these days, even on their cell phones, you can ask anyone who inquires
about your trees, “Did you ever notice that really cool tree on the corner of such
and such? I can make one just like that for you, and better yet, you can change
the look of it every season to whatever you want.” They just might be on the
lookout for a favorite tree after that.
Make sure you have a signed contract that covers as many situations as you can
possibly think of in advance. Remember, cover your butt (CYA!). Being part of
Vertical Artisans will be a huge advantage to you because you will have the
benefit of everyone else’s experience. There are many situations I’ve not yet
encountered. It’s best to be prepared.
Some people are of the mind that if they purchase a tree from you, then you
come with it forever after that. Make sure you outline responsibilities after the
tree is delivered and the deal is consummated.
* What type(s) of plants and size pots do you plan to use? What
are the watering and fertilizer requirements of the plants? Would
an automated watering system be helpful, or not needed at all?
The type and size of plants will affect cost. If you are handling the plant
decision, then you will need to find out the cost and care needs of the plants.
You can get all of this information on the internet usually by putting the name
of the plant in a search engine. You’d be surprised when you ask your
greenhouse grower about plant needs. Most of the time you’ll get an answer
like, “Oh, just water them every once in a while and give them a little fertilizer
now and then.” They really don’t know the specifics. Most just grow ‘em.
Knowing the type and size of plant will help you to determine the amount of
spread between branch ends so the tree will reflect the intended fullness with
the flowers or foliage installed. The choices are endless, but the trees look best
if the plant choices are types that grow over the sides to conceal the pots. They
can be either tropical type plants or flowering plants.
White pots last longer than green pots for some reason or other. I prefer green
because it hides better if the plants are a little thin in spots. You will likely use
them only for one season anyway.
*Always recommend that your customer order one extra pot of the same
flowers going into the tree just in case one fails to thrive or in the event of an
accident.
Here are some choices in plants I’ve used in the past:
Boston Ferns (indoor or partially shaded to shaded outdoors)
Swedish Ivy (indoor or partially shaded to shaded outdoors)
Ivy (indoor, but hard to locate really full and bushy)
German Ivy (Fast grower. Deep green leaves. Can take full sun outdoors, but it
is outlawed in some areas as invasive.)
Creeping Charlie (indoors or shaded outdoors)
Wandering Jew (indoors or shaded outdoors.)
Petunias (Huge selection. Can take full sun, although some species vary in
lighting needs. Some need to be deadheaded.) (Deadheading means stripping
the flower with the pod periodically after the flowers are spent.)
Giant Pink Supertunias (Large cascading flower. Very fast grower. Does best
when deadheaded. Loves Nitrogen and Iron. Guzzles water.)
Million Bells (full with small flowers, easiest of all to take care of. Lots of color
choices.)
Bacopa (touchy, doesn’t like full sun. Great for June weddings if you want to
rent out some trees. )
Some flower baskets are cascading types (my favorite). Others form balls.
Whatever the customer wants. Know what you are getting before you buy.
Here are examples of each.
Better have a mighty big tree if you are going to use seven of these! 12” pots.
Supertunia Bordeaux flowers
Trees in the range of 6 feet tall or less for outdoor displays can get along just
fine without the automatic watering system. Some of your customers may be
interested in such, especially if they are stay-at-home types and enjoy tending
to their yards and gardens on a daily basis. Trees without the watering systems
are easier to make and gives your cost conscious customers another option.
If you wish to make trees for table top displays using strictly metal and no
concrete, contact me and I will walk you through the process or prepare a
separate set of instructions. I made a wire tree once that I rented out as a
centerpiece for a banquet and for a wedding table using white Bacopa (a.k.a.
“Snowstorm”) as the flower choice. Below is what that tree looked like using
Swedish Ivy instead of Bacopa. Bacopa is a good choice for weddings but it’s a
temperamental plant. It produces many tiny white flowers and makes a great
display for a wedding table. It’s readily available in early season and could bring
in some nice cash for wedding displays. If you can keep it vibrant by putting it
back into a greenhouse environment, you can conceivably rent a tree multiple
times, and then sell the tree afterwards.
Rentals are another way to make money. They make a nice backdrop for
wedding pictures. Living Tree Art doesn’t always have to be in a permanent
display.
This tree was made using Obama signs left over from the last election. I threw
away the blue signs and used just the metal. Obama signs used 1/3 the size of
metal rod used in Republican signs. I rented this for wedding tables using
Bacopa as the flower choice.
Below is a tree made pretty much the same way using Republican signs and
with Bacopa as the flower choice. It has the autowater system.
To follow is a format I used in the past to pass out to potential customers. This
is not how I would recommend that you do yours. It’s only a suggestion as to a
start for your own pricing structure. Perhaps through the course of the webinar,
all artists involved can dream up a pricing form that is universal to cover most
situations and can be amended to serve the specific needs of each artist.
Best of luck in your Living Tree Art venture. Always go out on a limb!