1. No category

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
easy-to-use
4 sections
How to Use This Book
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
Your planning tool kit
Photos and suggestions to help
you create the perfect trip.
9
walled island vilThe postcard-perfect
73) is a wonder to
lage of Sveti Stefan (p
of Mediterranean
behold. It’s a little slice
pines and olive
heaven, with oleanders,
the terracotta roofs
trees peeking between
Content yourself
of pink stone dwellings.
to the island is
with the views, as access
exclusive resort
limited to guests of the
laze on the beach,
that owns it. Instead,
the woods to Pržno,
take a stroll through
– it’s
and go crazy taking photographs
hard to get a bad shot.
1
Montenegro’s
Top 16
was a Black
Once upon a time there
of that mountain
Mountain. And on top
by two granite
there was a tomb guarded
the tomb, under a
giantesses. And inside
rests a great hero,
canopy of gold, there
giant eagle... This
lying in the arms of a
Ànal resting place
fairy-tale location is the
vladika
for the very real 19th-century
II Petroviù Njegoš.
(bishop-prince) Petar
structure (p89)
The simple but aՖecting
do little to disand monumental statuary
views over all of
tract from the remarkable
2
Old Montenegro.
PAUL BRIRS / GETTY
IMAGES ©
IMAGES ©
GREG HAHN / GETTY
1
Njegoš Mausoleum
Sveti Stefan
8
1 Sights
2 Activities
C Courses
T Tours
5 Eating
6 Drinking
3 Entertainment
7 Shopping
&
z Festivals
Events
Information
8 & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Your complete guide
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps and insider tips.
1
2
Book your travels
Find a flight
Talk to other
travellers
Looking for ideas and advice on a
specific destination? Want to share
your experiences with the most active
travel community? Then head to Thorn
Tree, Lonely Planet’s forum, where
you’ll find new posts every 12 seconds.
Find the right flight through our
online booking service.
Reserve a room
Visit our website to book author-reviewed
accommodation for any price range.
Book activities
Discover and book amazing experiences
online for destinations around the globe.
lonelyplanet.com/destinations
4 Sleeping
ON THE ROAD
Go further with Lonely Planet
3
lonelyplanet.com/thorntree
Check out our full range of guides
Travelling somewhere
somewhe
ere else? Staying
Stay
ying longer in a particular
yin
particula place? Check out our full range of
guides, written
writtten and researched by
b expert authors to give
e you an amazing travel
t
experience.
Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
preference.
33
Boka, unhappy
In 1813 the people of the
under French
with the prospect of falling
Montenethis geographically rule, joined for the first time with
While it overlaps at times,
only lasted
stands at a slight gro and their allies Russia. This
compact area’s history
the Boka
rest of Montenegro. a year until Russia agreed to hand
remove from that of the
later MonAdriatic, the Boka back to the French. A few years
Like most of the eastern
this time,
Illyrian tribes. The tenegro, with the aid of Britain
was populated by the
off them
part of the Ro- succeeded in wrestling the Boka
passbay subsequently became
and before long but again Russia intervened, this time
man province of Dalmatia
up along Risan’s ing the control back to Austria.
lavish Roman villas sprang
of Venetian and
of the 5th century,
Throughout the period
part
waterfront. By the end
under barbarian Austrian rule the Boka was considered
with the empire crumbling
of today’s
the Bay of Kotor of Dalmatia (a coastal province
incursions from the north,
times. However,
Roman
in
Ostrogoths
of the
Croatia), as it was
briefly fell into the hands
in the 19th
before the advent of nationalism were more
and then the Slavic tribes.
Boka lived in vir- century, the people of the bay
The Slavic clans of the
than by
allegiances to
to be described as ‘Bokelj’ gradutual city states, maintaining (Byzantium). likely
or Croat. Religion
Serb
as
east
such
and
terms
(Rome)
ethnicboth the west
into the
the defining factor of
as
Kotor was eventually incorporateda forerun- ally became
Orthodox Christians identifying
principality of Duklja, consideredthe time of ity, with
The Boka
At
the Catholics as Croats.
ner of modern Montenegro. the western Serbs and
a mixed populahad always accommodated
Catholic
the momentous split between
dual
(Orthodox) churches tion – some churches even had
pan(Catholic) and eastern
altars – so the emerging
tied to Rome,
in 1054, Duklja was politically Raška (soon and Orthodox
fertile ground and
by
Slavic movement found
of
but by 1190 was annexed
and an Orthodox the post-WWI formation of the Kingdom
to be known as Serbia)
Perast, Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later Yugoslavia)
and
Kotor
bishopric was established.
locals.
have a largely Catho- was generally welcomed by the
however, continued to
that the Boka
exercise a degree of
It wasn’t until after WWII
lic population and to
one of the six
became part of Montenegro, the Socialist
autonomy.
assailed the
which constituted
In 1379 Bosnian King Tvrtko aligning it- republics
Since then
by
Federal Republic of Yugoslavia.has reduced
Bay of Kotor. Kotor resisted
Bosnians took large the Catholic/Croat population
self with Venice but the
the wars of
in 1382 founded the substantially, especially since
Doparts of the bay and
By 1463 Bosnia,
In 1910 Herceg Novi, Perast,
had
all
port town of Herceg Novi. the Boka, had the 1990s.
Budva
and
in
brota, Kotor, Prÿanj, Tivat
together with its territory
Catholics number
Turks.
a Catholic majority. Today
fallen to the Ottomans
by the Ottomans only 10% of the Bay of Kotor’s population.
Kotor survived a siege
of supplies from
in 1538 with the assistance
mounthe
in
Climate
Montenegro (now established so lucky, fallsection of the bay
wasn’t
The weather in the outer
tains behind it). Risan
In 1570 the bubonic isn’t markedly different from the pleasing the following year.
of 3500 people in
climate of the coast.
plague hit, killing upwards were still able ant Mediterranean
has a reputation for
Southwest-facing Tivat
Kotor, but the hardy citizens
spots. Cloud ofattack in 1572,
being one of the sunniest
to resist another Ottoman
of Venice and Mon- ten drapes the high cliffs of the inner bay.
once again with the help
is
tried again in 1657, Crkvice in the Orjen massif above Risan
tenegro. The Ottomans
rainfall in Europe,
but were forced
said to have the highest
this time with 10,000 men,
annum. The record
only 22 days.
averaging 5300mL per
to abandon the siege after
chieftain, Bajo
hit 8065mL. Luckily
was in 1937 when it
It took a hajduk (outlaw)
to 145 years of Ot- the karstic nature of the terrain causes the
Pivljanin, to put an end
Risan. Shortly after, water to disappear into the limestone rather
toman occupation of
pushed out
towns below.
the Ottomans were completelyof the entire than flooding the
control
of the Boka, with the
of the Venetians,
bay passing into the hands
8 Getting There & Away the
Napoleon’s dismanconnects
where it remained until
Jadranski Put (Adriatic Hwy) to Budva. A new
1797.
and
Dubrovnik
to
tling of the republic in
Kotor
Bay of
History
BAY OF KOTOR
2
Bay of Kotor
Why Go?
Kotorska, or
the Bay of Kotor (Boka
Coming from Croatia,
progress
simply enough, but as you
simply ‘the Boka’) starts
of the bay and the surrounding
through fold upon fold
meter gets
and steeper, the beauty
mountains get steeper
described as the Mediterranean’s
strictly
close to bursting. It’s often
the geological label is not
only fjord and even though
spot on.
that phrase conjures is
a
correct, the mental image
means that you can choose
your
The Boka’s compact size
for a week or two, spending
spend
base and put down roots
nooks. Active types can
days exploring its hidden
biking and hiking. Culture
and
their time kayaking, mountain
interesting art in the museums
vultures can search out
buffs can soak in the ambience
passed
numerous churches. History
various empires that have
the roof the remnants of the
angle, there’s no escaping
through. Whatever your
bay.
mance of this breathtaking
Herceg Novi . . . . . . . . .35
Morinj . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Risan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Perast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Dobrota . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Kotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Prÿanj . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Stoliv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Lastva . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Tivat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Luštica Peninsula . . . .55
Best Places to
Eat
When to Go
mild temperatures and
is mainly dry and sees
foliage in bloom.
fragrant Mediterranean
high
with temperatures in the
¨ June is the best month,
prices.
20s, low rainfall and off-peak
are the
months, July and August,
¨ The hottest and driest
busiest and most expensive.
¨ Konoba øatoviùa Mlini
¨ May
(p41)
¨ Konoba Feral (p38)
¨ Galion (p49)
¨ One (p54)
¨ Restaurant Conte (p
42)
Best Places to
Sleep
¨ Old Town Hostel (p
48)
¨ Camp Full Monte (p
39)
¨ Palazzo Radomiri (p
43)
¨ Forza Mare (p44)
¨ Villa Kristina (p56)
Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range
(budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by
author preference.
COUNTRY
COUNT
COUN
T
TRY
&R
RE
REG
REGIONAL
GIONAL
GION
G
AL
Th freedom
The
f
d
you need
d to
t
plan the perfect trip.
These symbols give vital information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
UNDERSTAND
Learn about the big picture, to
make sense of what you see.
1 37
nonthe latest election a new
of their intentions. In
party Pozitivna Crna Gora
ethnic, pro-independence
as
arguably it’s parties such
won 8% of the vote, and
choice
a new form of political
these that will provide
future.
for the electorate in the
1 36
3
POPULATION: 626,000
move – especially
in 2006, it was a brave
to part ways from Serbia
gutsy people have had
When Montenegro chose
is something these
the
But toughing it out
built around resisting
given its tiny population.
national identity was
with. Montenegro’s
much smaller than the
plenty of experience
a mountainous enclave
Montenegro
hundreds of years in
Ottoman Empire for
to its regained independence,
Determined to hold on
nation’s current borders.
the European Union.
has set a course towards
The Never-Changing
Goverment
Sothe Democratic Party of
In the 2012 general election,
own
short of ruling in their
cialists (DPS) fell two seats
Bosniak
a coalition with ethnic
right but quickly formed
and Croat parties to form
(South-Slav Muslim), Albanian
politistill plays a large role in
is
a government (ethnicity
extraordinary about this
cal affiliation here). What’s
single vote since multiparty
that the DPS has won every 1990, marking the end of
in
elections were established
communism in Yugoslavia.
if you consider that the
It’s even more extraordinary
Communist Party –
DPS was born out of Montenegro’s
it’s been in power continuously
so you could argue that
DPS
or other. However, today’s
since 1945 in one form
having embarked on an
is a long way from communist,
campaign of privaBe՚ in Print
and often controversial
enthusiastic
2011) Set
of Yugoslavia.
The Son (Andrej Nikolaidis;
figtisations since the demise
of a single
success is the charismatic
in Ulcinj over the course
One factor in the DPS’s
As a
Minister Milo Ăukanoviù.
night, this novel won a European
ure of returning Prime
of the
26-year-old he was part
Union Prize for Literature.
tall (198cm), handsome
of the
control
(Elizatook
that
Mountain
Realm of the Black
‘anti-bureaucratic revolution’ the age of 29 he became
At
beth Roberts; 2007) An interesting
Community Party in 1989.
Monteof post-Communist Monteand detailed dissection of
the first prime minister
he has
few years of ‘retirement’
negro’s convoluted history.
negro and apart from a
Lawpresident ever since. However,
Montenegro: A Novel (Starling
been prime minister or
still
tale of
controversial figure. While
rence; 1997) An entertaining
Ðukanoviù remains a
set
by an Italian anti-mafia
politics, bloodshed and romance
president he was investigated
dolalleged role in a billion
at the dawn of the 20th century.
unit and charged for his
were
(Reoperation; the charges
Black Lamb and Grey Falcon
lar cigarette-smuggling
the classics
becca West; 1941) One of
dropped in 2009.
popularity is the role it
of travel literature.
Part of the DPS’s continued its independence. Sevplayed in gaining Montenegro
parties, especially the Serberal of the main opposition opposed to the break with
aligned parties, were strongly
their
have publicly dropped
Serbia, and although most
many voters remain wary
anti-independence stance,
Be՚ on Film
Bond
Casino Royale (2006) James
Montenegro;
plays poker in a casino in
the Montesuspend your disbelief, as
Àlmed in
negro scenes were actually
Italy and the Czech Republic.
FeaturThe Battle of Neretva (1969)
Yul Brynner
ing a stellar cast including
garnered
and Orson Welles, this movie
It’s
an Academy Award nomination.
border in
set and Àlmed across the
Bulajiù was
Bosnia, but director Veljko
born in (what is now) Montenegro.
GDP PER CAPITA: €5211
of
people took to the streets
In 2012, thousands of
marches protesting against
Podgorica in a series of
and the worsening econcorruption, organised crime
of
been spared the effects
omy. Montenegro hasn’t
crisis. The rapid growth
the international economic
has slowed, unemploythat followed independence incomes remain low.
ment has shot up and average
recently published an esForeign Affairs magazine
as a ‘mafia state’. While
say describing Montenegro
the situation, the Euthat might be overdramatising its 2012 Montenegro
in
ropean Commission noted
remains widespread
Progress Report that ‘corruption
cause for concern, hinand continues to be a serious
investigations of organised
dering law enforcement
‘some
that
note
did, however,
crime’. The commission
since
on fighting corruption’
progress has been made
its previous report.
NATO & the EU
No payment required
% Telephone number
v Vegetarian selection
h Opening hours
E English-language menu
has been pushing ahead
Meanwhile, Montenegro
the North Atlantic Treaty
with its goal to join both
the European Union (EU).
Organisation (NATO) and
Montenegro applied to
Shortly after independence opened formal acces2012 it
join them and in June
the EU.
sion negotiations with
strongly favour EU
While most Montenegrins much more contenis
membership, joining NATO
NATO bombing of Serbia
tious. Memories of the
are still fresh. In a recent
during the Kosovo conflict
Metropolitan Aminterview with Dan newspaper, Church spoke out
Orthodox
filohije of the Serbian
NATO as an organisation
against joining, describing
the entire world’. However,
that ‘exerts violence on
has stood firm in its rethe Montenegrin government
to
it expects to be invited
solve, publicly stating that
join the alliance in 2014.
ECONOMIC GROWTH:
(2012 ESTIMATE)
0.5%
UNEMPLOYMENT: 20%
AVERAGE MONTHLY
€491
WAGE:
if Montenegro were
100 people
45 would identify as Montenegrin
29 would identify as Serb
12 would identify as Bosniak/Muslim
5 would identify as Albanian
ethnicity
9 are undeclared or another
belief systems
(% of population)
72
19
3
Muslim
Orthodox
Christian
Roman
Catholic
3
2
1
Other
Undeclared
Atheist
population per sq km
Montenegro
UK
USA
p Parking
c Family-friendly
n Nonsmoking
# Pet-friendly
a Air-conditioning
g Bus
i Internet access
f Ferry
W Wi-fi access
j Tram
s Swimming pool
d Train
≈ 1 person
SURVIVAL GUIDE
For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
12/300
8/200
30/86
20/68
4/100
10/50
0/32
0
-10/14
D
N
O
S
A
J
J
M
A
M
F
J
Kotor
Rainfall inches/mm
12/300
°C/°F Temp
40/104
8/200
30/86
20/68
4/100
10/50
0/32
0
-10/14
J
F
M
Bijelo Polje
°C/°F Temp
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
small
is true for toddlers and
lower
children as a generally
standard of safety regulations
(missing railings, unfenced
have
pools etc) means you’ll
them.
to keep a closer eye on
You’ll struggle to get
pushchairs along the cobbled
the
lanes and stairways in
often
older towns and you’ll
trundle
find yourself having to
roads
them along dangerous
due to parked cars blocking a
the footpaths. Still, bringing
only so
pram is a good idea, if
of paryou can join the legions
their
ents promenading with
babies on summer nights.
strike
Any hurdles you may
will be insignificant compared
to the wonderfully family- air
fresh
friendly atmosphere,
and gently lapping Mediterranean waters that Montenegro
provides. Lonely Planet’s
Travel With Children offers
the
further tips for hitting
tow.
road with the brood in
Rainfall inches/mm
12/300
40/104
30/86
8/200
Customs
Regulations
¨ To stop tourists from
4/100
neighbouring countries
bringing all their holiday
Monte0/32
0
groceries with them,
D
N
O
S
negro restricts the quantity
A
-10/14
J
J
M
A
M
F
J
of food which can be brought
into the country to 1kg.
You’ll rarely see anyone
to check
available, but it’s best
in public, but
¨ Restrictions apply to
goes for breastfeeding encouraged
(200
in advance. The same
given that this is
entering with tobacco
agenor
strike
car seats at rental car
here you’re unlikely to
cigarettes or 20 cigars
Car
best
(1L
cies or taxi companies.
negative reactions. You’re
250g tobacco), alcohol
pads
and
seats aren’t legally required,
to bring sufficient breast
of wine and 1L of spirits)
on the
to
but given the dangers
with you, as they’re hard
perfume (250ml).
roads you should consider
find in Montenegro.
¨ Amounts greater than
bringing your own. Highchairs
Medical care is generally
than
€2000 of cash or travellers
diffiare the exception rather
very good, but language
cheques must be declared
restaurants.
the rule at
If
culties can present problems.
when leaving the country.
You won’t find children’s
Every town has a medical
large
of
you’re entering with a
They
menus but the ubiquity
centre (Dom zdravlja).
like
sum and think you might
kid-friendly favourites
left
generally have a separate
two
have more than €2000
pasta, pizza and hot chips
a
section for children with
complete
easy.
leave,
mealtime
you
when
kids
(fries) makes
waiting rooms: one for
only
in- currency declaration form
Babysitting services are
with potentially contagious
find
with
on arrival or you may
offered in the most exclusive
fections and one dealing
on
like.
your money confiscated
five-star hotels.
broken bones and the
departure.
Disposable nappies (espeOlder offspring should
Huggies)
and
cially Pampers
in Montenegro,
¨ Drug laws are similar
formula have a blast
safe enviare easy to find. Infant
to most other European
super- with the relatively them off
or
is available in the bigger
countries. Possession
ronment allowing
idea
markets, but it’s a good
trafficking of drugs could
the leash a little. You may
a ball
to bring a few days’ supply
result in a lengthy jail
find that they’re kicking
are
brands
main
scallywith you. The
sentence.
around with the local
can
Bebelac and Nestle; you
wags in no time. The opposite
too.
sometimes find Aptamil
20/68
10/50
montenegro-2-cover.indd 2
p100;
USA Embassy (Map
%020-410 500; http://
podgorica.usembassy.gov;
Ljubljanska bb)
are
The following countries
in
represented from offices
nearby countries:
(%00Australian Embassy
381-11-330 3400; www.serbia.
embassy.gov.au; Vladimira
Popoviùa 38-40, Novi Beograd,
Belgrade, Serbia)
(%00Canadian Embassy
381-11-306 3000; www.canada.
rs; Kneza Miloša 75, Belgrade,
¨ When you enter the
country you need to receive
an entry stamp in your
you
passport. If you don’t,
may be detained or fined
for
when you seek to leave
illegally.
entering the country
Discount Cards
¨ The International Student
Identity Card (ISIC; www.
isic.org), issued to full-time
students 12 years and
over, entitles the bearer
trips
to discounts on train
and some admission
charges, shops, eateries,
other
accommodation and
Get
services in Montenegro.
them from student unions,
and
hostelling organisations
some travel agencies.
220V/50Hz
Serbia)
Irish Embassy (%00-361301 4960; www.dfa.ie; Szabadsag ter 7, Bank Center, Gránit
Tower, Budapest, Hungary)
The Netherlands Embassy
www.
(%00-381-11-202 3900;
nlembassy.rs; Simina 29,
Belgrade, Serbia)
SCOUNT CARDS
DIRECTORY A–Z D I
Rainfall inches/mm
°C/°F Temp
40/104
I M AT E
DIRECTORY A–Z C L
4
Podgorica
Fire the imagination of younger travellers and get inspired to see even more of the world.
TRAVEL BOOKS
16 3
Climate
ISBN 978-1-74179-602-5
Electricity
220V/50Hz
Embassies &
Consulates
misFor a full list of foreign
see
sions in Montenegro,
folwww.mip.gov.me. The
lowing are all in Podgorica,
unless otherwise stated:
(Map
Albanian Embassy
p100;%020-667 380; www.
mfa.gov.al; Stanka Dragojeviùa
14)
Bosnia & Hercegovinian
%020Embassy (Map p100;
618 105; www.mvp.gov.ba;
Atinska 58)
&
Croatian Embassy
Consulate (www.mvep.hr)
Podgorica (%020-269 760;
Vladimira øetkoviùa 2) Kotor
Trg
(Map p46;%032-323 127;
od oružja bb)
p100;
French Embassy (Map
35)
%020-655 348; Atinska
German Embassy (Map
p100;%020-441 000;
www.auswaertiges-amt.de;
Hercegovaÿka 10)
ConSerbian Embassy &
p100;
sulate Podgorica (Map
%020-667 305; www.podgor
ica.mfa.gov.rs; Hercegovaÿka
;
18) Herceg Novi (Map p36
%031-350 320; www.herceg
40)
novi.mfa.gov.rs; Njegoševa
UK Embassy (%020-618
010; www.ukinmontenegro.fco.
gov.uk; Ulcinjska 8)
52499
unsure.
EATING PRICE
RANGES
The price indicators
used in this book are
based on the co՚ of
the cheape՚ dish on
the menu which could
be considered a main
meal, regardless of
as
whether it is labelled
a main.
€ up to €5
€€ €5 to €8
€€€ over €9
9 781741 796025
2ND EDITION
Published Jun 2013
First Published Apr 1009
USA $24.99
UK £14.99
LONELY PLANET TRAVELLER
Go online to subscribe to this
award-winning magazine made
for anyone who loves to travel.
lonelyplanet.com/magazine
STAY IN TOUCH
lonelyplanet.com/contact
Food
KitchSee The Montenegrin
en (p154) for information
about local cuisine.
by
If you’re ordering fish
porthe kilogram, a standard
250g;
tion is around 200g to
before
ask for a rough price
you choose a fish if you’re
NOT-FOR-PARENTS
Our Not-For-Parents series
is made for children who are
curious about the world.
shop.lonelyplanet.com/pictorials-and-gifts
¨ The same organisation
issues the International
Youth Travel Card (IYTC;
available to people who
are between 12 and 26
years of age and not fulltime students) and the
International Teacher
Identity Card (ITIC; available
to teaching professionals),
both of which give similar
discounts to the ISIC.
shop.lonelyplanet.com/ebooks
Discover a world of travel
Inspirational travel photography
and amazing ways to discover
even more of the world.
Your at-a-glance reference
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
162
4
EBOOKS
The same great content
with added interactivity.
AREA: 13,812 SQ KM
The Big Issues
Montenegro
Today
POCKET
POCK
ET
Perfect for
a quick visit.
shop.lonelyplanet.com
Sustainable or green recommendation
Get more from your trip
DISCOVER
DISC
OVER
Full-colour
F
ll
l
images
i
and top itineraries.
Paper in this book is certified
against the Forest Stewardship
Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes
environmentally responsible, socially
beneficial and economically viable
management of the world’s forests.
AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011
%03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111
twitter.com/
lonelyplanet
USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607
%510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572
facebook.com/
lonelyplanet
UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ
%020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112
lonelyplanet.com/
newsletter
1/03/2013 2:19:15 PM
Montenegro
Northern
Mountains
Dubrovnik
#
(Croatia) ^
p122
Central
Montenegro
p107
p88
Bay of
Kotor
p32
Adriatic
Coast
p61
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Peter Dragičević
Vesna Marić
On the
Road
Northern
Mountains
Dubrovnik
#
(Croatia) ^
p122
Central
Montenegro
p88
Bay of
Kotor
p32
Adriatic
Coast
p61
p107
\
#
\
Plužine #
\
Goransko #
\
#
R
Cehoti
na
\
Boljanići #
Boričje
R
\
#
Durmitor
National Park CaTara
ny
÷
#
on
Trsa
\
#
Bobotov Žabljak
Kuk
\
#
(2523m)
]
#
Priboj
e 00
Kosanica
Njegovuda
\
#
\
Ohac #
+
#
Ranče
\
#
Nova Varoš
\
#
+
# Dobrakovo
25 miles
SERBIA
Biogradska Gora
National Park
Aljinovići
Morača#\ Monastery
into the
Sjenica
13th century (p109)
]
#
\
#
Gračanica
Step
\ Prijepolje
#
Tara River
Raft through a kilometrehigh canyon (p113)
]
Pljevlja #
333
333
333
+
#
\
#
Šćepan
Polje
Foča
Tara
50 km
\
#
R
33
33
333
Savin #
Primeval forest (p111)
Rudnice
Bijelo
Kuk \ Miloševići
Treskavac (2313m)
Polje#
(2093m)
]
\ Dobrilovina
#
\ Bukovica
#
Ko
Bajovo #
Ravna
\
ma
Zlostup #
\
Polje
Bistrica
Rijeka
rn i c
\
#
\
#
a
Kruščica#
\
Goslic #
\ Timar
#
\
Brzava
\
#
\
] Mojkovac
#
Šavnik #
R
Štitarička Rijeka #
\
\ Poda
#
\
Krstača
Mokro #
\ Krnja
#
\ Kraljevo Kolo
#
(1755m)
\
#
Ravna
Sjerogošte
Presjeka #
\
\
Jela
Bileća #
Dračenovac +
#
Vlaka R
Biogradska Gora
\
#
Jasenovo
\
#
(1721m)
National Park
\
#
\ Redice
#
Polje
Bac
Gvozd
\
#
Kalače
R
÷
#
Vir
\
#
R
]
#
Perast
\
#
Crna Berane
Lake
Kapa
]
#
Rožaje
Glava
Romance in a
\
Krupac
Moračka Raško#
Kolašin
(2137m)
Nikšić
baroque fairy tale (p41)
Kuside #
(2227m)
\ Rubeža
] #
#
\
+
#
Podbožur
\
#
\ Mateševo
#
Ü
#
Kulina
Lake
\
#
Morača
]
#
Vilusi
+
#
Slano
\
#
\
#
\
Trebinje
Međuriječje #
\ Osječenica
#
Monastery
Andrijevica
Lastva
Pusti
Ostrog
m
^
#
R
\
#
Lisac
Ü
#Monastery
\
#
Ivanica
\
#
\
#
Dubrovnik
(1475m)
Grahovo
Kucište
]
#
Murino
R
Peć
\ Izvori
#
\
#
Zagorak
Surdup
Mt
Lisac
\
#
\
Han
Cavtat #
] Plav
#
(2182m)
Sitnica
(1586m)
KOSOVO
Gorica
\
#
R
Danilovgrad #
Ledenice
CROATIA
\
#
\
\
Čevo
\
#
\
#
R Ðeravica
Gusinje
Crkvice #
\
#
Stolac
\
#
Gacko
\
#
Piva
\
#
Novesinje
\
#
Durmitor National Park
Glacial lakes reflect
mountain glories (p113)
BOSNIA &
HERCEGOVINA
Montenegro
w
w
Li
w
w
w
Morača
M
Ca orač
ny a
on
w
\
#
\
#
0
250m
500m
750m
1000m
1500m
2000m
ELEVATION
Rijeka Crnojevića
Dine in a sleepy
riverside hamlet (p95)
\
#
w
Adriatic
Sea
Vranjina
w
Ljašaj#
\
\
#
\
#
\
#
Ada
Bojana
Ulcinj
A vibrant slice of
Albanian culture (p82)
Štoj
\
#
Ulcinj
Lake
Koman
\
#
Laci
Miloti
\
#
\
#
\
Burrel #
Rresheni
\
#
Puka
\
#
Stari Bar
Enigmatic ruins
to explore (p81)
Lezha
\
#
\
#
Bajram
Curri
\
#
Klosi
\
#
ALBANIA
Lake Skadar National Park
Floating meadows
of water lilies (p95)
Drin
\
Fiërza #
\ Teti
#
Ostrog Monastery
Cliff 's-edge serenity
\ Ducaj
#
and
spirituality (p104)
÷
Prokletije #
National
Park R
Mj Škeljzen
Mt Kolac
(2407m)
(2534m)
R
Dragobija
\
#
Tropoja
33
3
333
333
3
vna
ije
Boga
C
\
#
\ Plavnica
#
\
#
Zagora
÷
#
Virpazar
Lake Skadar
Rijeka Reževići
\ Godinje National
#
\
#
\
#
Kopljik
Petrovac
Park
Murići Lake
\
#
Skadar
\ Tuđemili
Sutomore #
\
#
\
#
\
#
Bobovište
Brca
# Stari
] ä
Bar #
Bar
Shkodra
\
#
]
#
Ckla
\ Krute
Pečurice #
\
#
Vladimir #
\
\
#
Muricani
\
Kruće #
\Pržno
#
\
Sveti Stefan #
Sveti Stefan
Inviting sands and
island views (p73)
Budva
A miniature, lessfrantic Dubrovnik (p63)
Njegoš Mausoleum
A tomb with a view (p90)
Kotor
Living history
within ancient walls (p44)
Budva #
]
33
33
3
3333
3333
3333
3
Spuž #
\ Risan
#
Bioče #
\
Kameno Morinj
\
Grab
\
#
Debeli Brijeg +
\
#
#
\Perast
#
\ Resna
#
\ Ljuta
#
Zelenika
\
#
Herceg Novi #
t
] #
a
\
Prčanj
Rose#
\
Tivat #
Njegoš
Herceg Novi
_ PODGORICA
\ #
\ Kotor
#
+
# \ Radovići
Gorica #
Mausoleum
Kobila
æ
Relax on
\
#
\
#
Lovcen R#
Cetinje
]
#
Mirišta
(1749m)
sunny squares (p35)
\
#
Rvaši
Lovcen
\ Tuzi
#
\
#
\
#
National #
÷
Rijeka
Hani i
\
\
Park
Golubovci
Crnojevića #
Riječani
+
##
Hotit
Ze
Bulqiza
Lake
Fierza
OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and
Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook
should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS
Peter Dragičević
Coordinating Author; Bay of Kotor, Adriatic Coast, Central Montenegro, Northern
Mountains After a dozen years working for newspapers and magazines in both
his native New Zealand and Australia, Peter finally gave in to Kiwi wanderlust,
giving up staff jobs to chase his typically antipodean diverse roots around much
of Europe. While it was family ties that first drew him to the Balkans, it’s the history, natural beauty, convoluted politics, cheap rakija and, most importantly, the
intriguing people, that keep bringing him back. He wrote the very first edition of this book when
the country was freshly independent and has contributed to literally dozens of other Lonely Planet
titles, including four successive editions of the Eastern Europe guide.
Contributing Writer
Vesna Marić wrote the Dubrovnik (Croatia) chapter. Vesna was born in Bosnia and Hercegovina
while it was still a part of Yugoslavia, and she has never been able to see Croatia as a foreign country. A lifetime lover of Dalmatia’s beaches, pine trees, food and wine, she found researching this
chapter a true delight.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
2nd edition – June 2013
the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74179 602 5
mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 2013
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in Singapore
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,
mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the
written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent
and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such
as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
23
Itineraries
Šćepan
#
Polje•
SERBIA
Ta
É
É
BOSNIA &
HERCEGOVINA
ra
É
Ri
ve
r
É
Ostrog
Monastery
CROATIA
É
•
#
É
•
#
Kotor
KOSOVO
É
Herceg
Perast Njegoš
Novi •
#
Mausoleum
•
#
•
#
•
#
É
_ PODGORICA
#
Cetinje
#
Budva •
•
#
•
#
Sveti
Virpazar
Stefan
É
ADRI ATIC
SEA
5
S
DAY
ALBANIA
Essential Montenegro
Taking in the country’s most emblematic sights, this 425km trip requires a car. Montenegro
is teensy-weensy, so a short journey clear across the country is suggested, giving a taste of
the mountains and a day’s rafting. Note, rafting is only possible between April and October.
Start in Herceg Novi (p35) and slowly wind your way towards Kotor (p44), allowing at least an hour in Perast (p41) en route. All three are ancient bayside towns filled
with old churches and marbled squares. The next morning, take the dazzling drive to the
former Montenegrin capital Cetinje (p91) through Lovćen National Park, stopping to
visit the Njegoš Mausoleum (p90) on the way. Continue north through the Piva Canyon
to Šćepan Polje (p114), the main staging point for one-day rafts of the river, and stay the
night at one of the rafting camps.
Hit the Tara River the next morning on a half-day’s rafting trip, then drive to the dramatically positioned Ostrog Monastery (p104). Continue on to Podgorica (p99) and
celebrate the day’s achievements in the capital’s bars. On day four, continue to Virpazar
(p95) for a chilled-out cruise on Lake Skadar. Carry on down to Sveti Stefan (p73), check
into somewhere with an island view and head to the beach. Spend your last day in Budva
(p63), exploring the Stari Grad (Old Town) and lazing on the sand.
24
Šćepan
#
Polje •
Ta
É
É
BOSNIA &
HERCEGOVINA
#
Žabljak •
SERBIA
ra
PL AN YOUR TRIP I t i n e r a r i e s
É
É
Ri
ve
r
Biogradska Gora
É
÷ National Park
#
Ostrog
Monastery
•
#
Herceg
Perast
Novi •
#
•
#
É
Kotor
•
#
KOSOVO
É
•
#
•
#Kolašin
É
CROATIA
_ PODGORICA
#
É
Cetinje
Budva •
#
#
•
#Virpazar
Pržno •
•
#
Sveti Stefan •
#
É
Petrovac
•
#
Stari Bar
É
ALBANIA
É
ADRI ATIC
SEA
Ulcinj
2 KS
WEE
•
#
The Full Monte
Most of Montenegro’s big-hitting beauty spots are covered in this 770km itinerary. We
haven’t attempted to be too prescriptive about where you should stop for the night, and
the schedule has room for a couple of days to linger in places you enjoy.
Base yourself in Herceg Novi (p35) and take a boat or kayak trip to Rose, Mamula
Island, the Blue Grotto and the beaches of the Luštica Peninsula. Stop at Morinj and
Risan on your way to Perast (p41), and don’t miss the boat trip to Gospa od Škrpjela island. Continue to Kotor (p44) and use the walled town as a base to visit Dobrota, Prčanj
and Stoliv. Then head through Lovćen National Park to Cetinje (p91), stopping in Ostrog
Monastery (p104) on the way to a rafting trip at Šćepan Polje (p114). Instead of heading
straight back to Podgorica after the rafting trip, take the scenic road east from Plužine
through Durmitor National Park to Žabljak (p113). Allow some time to enjoy the park
and, at a minimum, make sure you hike around the Black Lake.
Follow the road along the Tara River to the isolated Dobrilovina Monastery then continue on to Biogradska Gora National Park (p111) – you can stay in the cabins here or
continue on to the upmarket hotels in Kolašin (p109). Stop at the Morača Monastery on
your way to Podgorica (p99), then hang out in the capital for a day. Continue down to
Virpazar (p95) for a morning’s cruise on Lake Skadar, then head on to Murići. Skirt the
Rumija Mountains until the road shies away from the Albanian border and hooks down
to the buzzy beachside town of Ulcinj (p82). Be sure to visit Velika Plaža before continuing back up the coast. Stop to check out the charming ruins of Stari Bar (p81) before
heading on to the family-friendly beach town of Petrovac (p74). Continue along the
coast, stopping at the beaches of Sveti Stefan (p73) and Pržno (p72) before finishing up
in Budva (p63), with its walled Old Town and busy beachfront promenade
If you’re travelling by bus, you’ll need to pare back the itinerary a little. From Kotor,
the easiest way to Cetinje, Ostrog or rafting is on a day-tour. Swap the Plužine–Žabljak
road for a Nikšić–Žabljak bus. To get from Žabljak to Kolašin you’ll need to go via Pljevlja
or Podgorica. From Virpazar take a train to Bar followed by a bus to Ulcinj.
25
CROATIA
•
#
Risan
•
#
•
#
Perast
Bay of
•
# Kotor
Kotor
É
Herceg
Novi
É
Budva •
#
•
# Pržno
#
Sveti Stefan •
Petrovac
ADRI ATIC
SEA
Lake
Shkodra
•
#
ALBANIA
É
#
Stari Bar •
É
#
Ulcinj •
•
#
Velika Plaža
•
#
Ada Bojana
1
WEE
K
The Coast
Spend a day in Herceg Novi (p35) and consider taking a kayak tour or a boat to the
beaches on the Luštica Peninsula. The following day, make your way slowly to Kotor,
stopping to view the Roman mosaics at Risan (p41) and the Baroque beauty of Perast
(p41). Base yourself in Kotor (p44) on day three; consider climbing the fortifications,
hiking the Vrmac Ridge, exploring the neighbouring coastal villages or just hanging out
in the fascinating Old Town.
If you’ve got a car, take the serpentine road up to Lovćen National Park, ascend the
steps to the Njegoš Mausoleum and spend the rest of the day exploring the museums and
galleries of Cetinje (p91) before heading on to Budva (p63) for the night. If you’re travelling by bus, head straight to Budva and save Cetinje for another day.
For the following two days base yourself anywhere on the 20km stretch of coast between
Budva and Petrovac. The advantages of Budva include its old walled town and its nightlife,
and it’s the easiest place to arrange day tours to Ostrog Monastery and Lake Skadar, or a
Tara River rafting trip. Petrovac (p74) is more family-friendly, with a more relaxed vibe and
great beaches nearby. Close neighbours Pržno (p72) and Sveti Stefan (p73) have excellent
accommodation at every price level, great restaurants, and striking coastal views.
No matter where you put down roots, make sure you take the walk through the woods
from Sveti Stefan to Pržno. A car or bike will get you to hidden bays such as Drobni
Pijesak and Rijeka Reževići, and there are several monasteries to explore, including Podmaine and Podostrog, near Budva, and Reževići and Gradište, near Petrovac.
Continuing southeast along the coast, visit the ruins of Stari Bar (p81) on your way
to Ulcinj (p82). The atmosphere of this largely Albanian town is quite different from
anywhere else in Montenegro and there’s a palpable buzz on the streets at night. It too
has an interesting Old Town and the succession of rocky coves heading east from the
crowded town beach are great for snorkelling. Nearby is the 12km continuous stretch of
sand known as Velika Plaža (Big Beach; p86) and just across the Bojana River there’s a
further 3km of beach on the nudist island Ada Bojana (p86).
PL AN YOUR TRIP I t i n e r a r i e s
•
# Cetinje
26
Šćepan
•
#
Polje
•
#Pljevlja
É
Dobrilovina
Monastery
•
#
É
Mojkovac
Ostrog
Monastery
É
Biogradska Gora
÷ National Park
#
•
#Kolašin
•
# Morača
Monastery
#
Gusinje •
_
#
PODGORICA
É
•
#
É
•
#
#
Piva •
Monastery
É
PL AN YOUR TRIP I t i n e r a r i e s
É
É
•
#
É
É
Žabljak
É
CROATIA
SERBIA
É
É
BOSNIA &
HERCEGOVINA
÷
#
KOSOVO
Prokletije
National Park
ALBANIA
ADRI ATIC
SEA
1
WEE
K
The Hidden North
This mountainous 650km loop combines some of Europe’s most beautiful drives with visits
to isolated monasteries and opportunities for wilderness hiking. You won’t be able to tackle
this route in winter, as snows close the Plužine–Žabljak road, and rafting stops in October.
Spend the morning exploring the nation’s capital and biggest city, Podgorica (p99), then
head through Danilovgrad to the extraordinary Ostrog Monastery (p104). Continue on
through Nikšić where the highway passes through farmland before reaching Piva Monastery (p116), and the start of the Piva Canyon. From here the road passes through numerous tunnels cut into the canyon walls until you reach the Bosnian border at Šćepan Polje
(p114), the main rafting base. Check yourself into one of the rafting camps for the night.
Start day two with a half-day’s rafting on the Tara River and then jump in the car and
double back through the canyon as far as Plužine. From here, take the scenic mountain
road through Durmitor National Park to Žabljak (p113). Spend the rest of today and
tomorrow hitting the park’s hiking tracks.
On day four, drive east to the Tara Bridge and head north to Pljevlja (p117) to visit
Montenegro’s most beautiful mosque and a picturesque Orthodox monastery. Double
back to the Tara Bridge and continue southeast along the river road. Consider making
Eko-Oaza Suza Evrope your pitstop for this leg. From here you can walk to the secluded
Dobrilovina Monastery (p113) and to a swimming hole on the river.
Continue to Mojkovac and then head north around the Bjelasica Massif and back down
through Berane to Plav. Base yourself nearby for a day’s hiking in Prokletije National
Park (p121); make sure you fit in a quick visit to the old Ottoman town of Gusinje (p121).
The next day, take the awe-inspiring back road through Andrijevica to the mountain resort
of Kolašin (p109), and tackle the tracks in Biogradska Gora National Park (p111).
The road back to Podgorica follows the Morača Canyon and is just as extraordinary as
any on this trip. At the start of the canyon, call in to admire the exquisite frescoes and
icons at peaceful Morača Monastery (p109). You might also like to offer a prayer for
your safety on the scenic but treacherous road ahead.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,
access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair
to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other
words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass
email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions
on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with
our content.’