1. business and industrial
2. energy
3. renewable energy

Saturday, September 12, 2009
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“The voice of Interior Alaska since 1903”
Look inside for tips on how to save
money on your home heating bill,
electricity bill and at the gas pump.
2
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
Sun harvest: A solar home is built in Fairbanks
By ERIC MUEHLING
For the News-Miner
It was a cold February morning when I flipped the switch
that started electrons flowing
from my solar panels into the
local electric utility grid.
With that flick of a switch
I had become an alternative
power producer. I was a solar
harvester. I was making a difference. It felt good.
Last summer I began building what I will call twin solar
cabins. My primary design goal
was to incorporate many energy-conserving features into
a small Arctic home. These
features include super-thick
insulated walls and triple-pane
windows. My second goal:
energy production with solar
photovoltaic (PV) panels.
Now that the cabins are
nearly finished, I believe I am
the first in Alaska to build
super-insulated housing with
adjustable solar electric panels fully integrated into the
structure’s design.
The cabins are modified Aframes. I chose the A-frame
array of 30 panels is hinged at
the top so it can be tilted up
and down — as the seasons
change — to capture the most
sunshine. The cabins face true
south.
Solar electricity is clean and
reliable. The solar electric system has no moving parts. It
has worked without interruption since it was commissioned
six months ago. The system
turns itself on at sunrise, and
automatically shuts down at
sunset.
Solar electric production
varies from month to month.
Fairbanks has a unique location on the globe. March is
a great month to produce
solar electric in the Far North
because we have 12-hour days,
sunlight reflects off snow
adding to electric production, and historically March
Charles Mason photo has many cloudless days. In
The cabin floor, walls and ceilings are framed with 14-inch manufactured lumber I-joists. December, the sun is barely
Five tons (exactly 10,025 pounds) of fire-resistant cellulose insulation were blown into two degrees about the horizon
and solar production is near
every nook and cranny of this modified A-frame structure.
zero. Throughout the winter
shape because a triangle is rooms upstairs and one bath- second-floor deck.
I remove snow and hoarfrost
rigid and strong. Each cabin is room downstairs. A large solar
Solar panels are integrat800 square feet with two bed- array serves as an awning for a ed into the home design. The
Please see SOLAR, Page 3
3
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
SOLAR: System cost
Continued from Page 2
from the solar array.
I hired an engineer to design
a strong mounting system
so the solar array wouldn’t
fly away like a child’s kite in
a gusty wind. The engineer
reviewed 20 years of Fairbanks
weather history before designing a system that would handle a possible 30 to 35 mile per
hour wind load.
Each cabin has a 5,250 watt
array. The total for both solar
arrays is 10,500 watts. Electricity from these solar arrays
is direct current (DC). An
inverter converts the DC to
240 volts alternating current
(AC). Hooking up the system
to the utility grid was about as
easy as plugging in a toaster.
The engineer provided a wir-
HOW SOLAR WORKS
ing diagram. I did the wiring
myself.
The total system cost was
around $85,000. That’s not
cheap, but the solar panels
come with a 20-year guarantee. Clearly my enthusiasm for
conservation outweighs the
economics of going solar.
On a sunny day each cabin
produces 30 kilowatt-hours
of power (more than enough
to power an average home,
according to the U.S. Department of Energy). My solar
electricity is sold to the local
utility Golden Valley Electric
Association (GVEA). I have
two electric meters. One meter
is for the solar power I sell to
GVEA. The other meter is for
the electricity I buy like everyone else.
GVEA pays me about eight
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• Photovoltaic (PV) panels are made of thin silicon cells that convert sunlight into electricity.
• Each of my PV panels generates 175 watts on a bright sunny day.
• Each solar cabin has an array of 30 photovoltaic panels that produces 5,250 watts.
• Each array of 30 solar panels is 28 feet wide by 17 feet tall. Each array weighs 1,200 pounds.
The array can be tilted as the seasons change.
• An inverter converts direct current (DC) from the PV panels to alternating current (AC).
• The inverter is connected to an electric meter owned by (GVEA) which is connected to the utility grid.
• The solar electric power travels along electric power lines and is used by my nearest neighbors.
cents per kilowatt-hour (the
wholesale price of electricity).
That’s roughly four dollars on
a sunny day. On an overcast
day GVEA’s payment is less
than a quarter. At GVEA’s rate
it would take over 60 years to
pay back the cost of building
this solar electric system.
Community-based contributions help support alternative
power producers like myself
through a program called
SNAP (Sustainable Natural
Alternative Power). GVEA
administers the SNAP.
The cabin floor, walls and
ceiling are framed with 14inch manufactured lumber Ijoists. Five tons (exactly 10,025
pounds) of fire-resistant cellulose insulation was blown into
every nook and cranny of this
modified A-frame structure.
These 14-inch thick walls
have an R-value of 50. R-value
is a measure of thermal resistance. By comparison, many
houses in Fairbanks are still
built with 6-inch thick walls
having an R-value of 20.
There are no north-facing
windows. On the east and west
walls I installed custom triplepane windows. A south-facing
view window in the living room
receives passive solar heating.
Please see SOLAR, Page 4
4
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
SOLAR
HOW MUCH
DID MY SOLAR
ELECTRIC
SYSTEM COST?
Continued from Page 3
These structures are air
tight. A vapor barrier (plastic
sheeting) keeps water vapor
out of the walls and roof. To
prevent water vapor buildup in
the living area, a heat exchanger scavenges heat from moist
exhaust air and brings in dry,
fresh air.
To conserve on electric use
all lights inside are either compact fluorescent or super-efficient LED. The bathroom has
a waterless composting toilet. I
plan to add a ceramic infrared
sauna. A vehicle plug-in timer
should reduce electric use in
the winter.
Higher resale value is a benefit to building energy-efficient
housing. And there is a green
benefit: so far my solar electric production has deferred
more than 13,000 pounds of
carbon dioxide from entering
Earth’s atmosphere because
every kilowatt produced with
solar reduces the need to burn
coal and oil.
I previously built two smaller solar electric systems. One
system powers the lights and
Charles Mason photo
Solar photovoltaic panels produce 5,250 kilowatts of electricity in the bright sun. That’s
enough to power an average home. The panels form an array that is hinged at the top.
The hanging rope is used to clear snow.
a small refrigerator at a recreation cabin I own north of the
Alaska Range. Another solar
panel powers the computer
I’m working on right now in
Fairbanks to write this article.
Construction on the twin
solar cabins is nearly com-
plete. I envision more energyefficient houses in Fairbanks.
I encourage you to read and
contribute to my blog at www.
naturecabins.com/blog/
computer-based science lessons at
the UAF Geophysical Institute. He
has built 12 cabins in Alaska, is a
landlord, and former photographer
at the Fairbanks Daily News-Miner.
He wants to remind everyone that
the UAF Cooperative Extension
Eric Muehling is a multimedia Service has excellent publications
designer who creates interactive about building in cold climates.
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• Cost more than
$85,000. Includes 60
solar panels (10,500
watts), two mounting systems, two inverters, wire
and other supplies. This
works out to $8.29 per
KW.
A national average cost
for new solar PV systems
is $9 to $15 per KWH
(in 2009). One thing that
kept my cost low was that
I did all of the installation
myself.
• Tax credits: A Federal
tax credit of 30 percent
of the system‚ purchase
price is $25,500. This
makes the cost basis
more like $60,000. Of
course, future depreciation on the system has a
tax advantage.
• GVEA payment policy:
In 2009 GVEA paid about
eight cents per KWH for
solar electricity (this is
half the consumer rate
and what GVEA calls
‘avoided cost’).
Most other states
require net metering,
a policy where electric
utilities buy and sell power
from solar and wind producers at the same price.
Net Metering is an economic incentive to alternative energy producers.
GVEA has opposed net
metering legislation and
regulation.
• One measure of
sunlight is solar hours.
Fairbanks, Alaska receives
an annual average of 3.3
solar hours/day.
At GVEA’s current rate
this works out to a GVEA
payment of $948/year. At
GVEA’s current ‘avoided
cost’ rate it would take
more than 60 years to pay
back the cost of building
this solar electric system.
• Community contributions: Community-based
contributions help support
producers of alternative
energy through a program
called SNAP (Sustainable
Natural Alternative Power).
GVEA administers the
SNAP program.
5
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
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Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
As energy woes grow, so does list of weatherization tips
Home-heating fuel costs
have soared in the past couple
of years.
With winter creeping closer, building and energy professionals are busy trying to
get Fairbanks energy healthy,
and some residents are taking
matters into their own hands
by attacking energy inefficiencies at home.
“I was up in my attic, sealing the bypass around the
wood stove chimney, blowing
25 bales of cellulose into the
attic and putting a new bathroom fan in,” said Rich Seifert, professor of energy and
housing at the University of
Alaska Fairbanks.
“It’s dirty. It’s dusty,” he
said. “Hellaciously bad working conditions, and those are
the kind of places that people
will need to go.”
The extreme climate and
high energy demand of Fairbanks residents coupled with
soaring energy prices have
ignited a nearly universal
interest in home energy efficiency in recent years.
To the tens of thousands
of residents looking to make
their homes more efficient,
experts recommend a subsidized energy audit as the only
starting point of the process.
Since they accept that not
everyone can or will schedule
an audit before this winter,
they are trying to disseminate low-cost, do-it-yourself
knowledge so people can at
least take steps toward efficiency.
“Everybody’s going to be
pressed for time. They’re just
going to dive right in,” Seifert
said.
Anticipating the rush,
building professionals have
produced a ream of handbooks, consumer guides and
checklists designed to help
people understand their
unique energy inefficiencies.
The public can learn about
weatherization at the Portal
on Retrofits, Training and
Loans, a public outreach program created by the Alaska Housing Finance Corp.,
the Cold Climate Housing
Research Center and the Fairbanks Economic Development
Corporation.
Experts promote energy
audits because they establish
a list of priorities and outline
the most economical order of
operations. The priority list,
for example, would avert the
waste of time and money that
could result from insulating
before air sealing the attic.
But what can people do now,
before winter arrives, that
doesn’t cost too much? Here’s
what the experts have to say.
Plug those holes
Sealing cracks between the
ceiling and attic ranks high, if
not first, on a general priority
list, said Michael Musick, an
energy-efficiency consultant
at the Cold Climate Housing
Research Center.
A vapor and air sealant will
prevent warm indoor air from
leaking into the attic, known
as the stacking effect.
“Your house becomes like a
chimney. If air is leaking out
the ceiling, then it must be
replaced,” Musick said.
Cold outdoor air replaces
heated indoor air. Furthermore, people inside breathing,
cooking and bathing saturate
the air and create a lot of
water vapor.
“That leaks into the attic
space and rises in temperature, turns back to liquid
and freezes, causing an ice
buildup in the attic itself or in
vents,” Musick said.
Slowing down the biggest
leaks in the ceiling nearly
eliminates the stack effect,
he said. While caulking the
obvious holes in the attic,
space around the attic hatch
and around ductwork is easy
enough to do, locating smaller
leaks requires more technology. A main feature of an
energy audit is the blowerdoor test, a fan-like device
that sucks the air out of a
home to pinpoint cracks in
floors and ceilings.
Adding insulation to the
attic floor and outside of the
basement wall is often the
next step in suppressing heat
loss.
Spray foam and cellulosic insulations can fill in
small cavities, but moisture
problems can occur in crawl
spaces if water has nowhere
to escape, according to an
insulation guide released by
the Cooperative Extension
Service. Spray foam insulation, which is sold in different expanding levels for
doors and windows versus
floors and other structures,
costs from about $7 to $11 for
about 12 ounces.
Blue and pink foam insulation boards, made out of
extruded polystyrene, run
roughly $34 for a 2-inch-thick,
4-by-8-foot board. The material excels at blocking water
vapor, and the guide cautioned
that moisture problems could
result if the boards were not
properly installed. The same
basic wisdom applies to log
cabins, Seifert said. Air-sealing floors and attics and Permachinking will tighten up a
cabin.
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7
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
COSTS: Taking care of minor home details to save money, fuel expenses
Continued from Page 6
between the logs inside and
out,” Seifert said. The finish
blends in with the color of
the wood without harming its
aesthetics.
Small leaks
need attention, too
Weatherstripping the door,
which runs about $10 to
$20, can help block drafts
and boost indoor comfort and
offers the most energy savings in old, leaky homes.
The user-friendly kit needs
to match a specific door frame
type and includes three pieces
that fit snugly to the side and
top door jambs, often made
out of vinyl or foam.
Keep things covered
Installing a water-heater
blanket, which costs about
$20, is relatively easy and can
reap a quick payback, Musick
said. Wrapping a water heater
and hot water pipes in insulation helps slow the cooling
of sitting hot water. Beware
with a gas water heater, he
light bulbs for compact fluorescent bulbs, which last
10 times as long and use 75
percent less electricity, also
brings instant savings on
electric bills.
Using appliances efficiently can also save money, Seifert
said. Wash clothes in warm
water but rinse them in cold
water, he said.
“Restrict the shower flow
head because hot water is a
big expense,” he said.
Draining 1 or 2 gallons
from the water heater each
month keeps rust from gathering on the bottom. Rusty
water heaters are less efficient and durable.
“It’s a good way to enhance
the life of your water heater,”
Seifert said.
Hiring a professional to
tune the boiler also can make
a world of difference.
Setting the thermostat lower at bedtime and when the
house is empty, or delegating
that task to a $40 programmable thermostat available at
Those electric bills
hardware stores, can put a
Switching incandescent dent in the heating bill.
said, which requires leaving
some areas uninsulated for
combustion air supply.
“Turn the water heater
down to 120 degrees, and
wrap it with a blanket,”
Musick said.
Covering windows traps
heat indoors, reduces condensation
buildup
and
blocks drafts, Musick said.
A $15 window-insulation kit
includes a shrink-wrap film
that adheres to the inside
window frames using a blow
dryer or other heating device.
While the shrink-wrap is only
durable enough to last about
one season, he said, it can
have a huge payoff for singlepane windows in particular.
“If you can stop that condensation and frost that inexpensively, it’s very well-worth
doing,” Musick said.
A heavier plastic sheeting,
which costs about $1 per foot,
can be stapled to the outside
of the window and fastened
around the edges.
Where to go
To get started, check
out “Tips on Insulating an
Existing House,” a detailed,
free online guide from energy experts that walks you
through the technical process
of insulating and air sealing
your home. The summer issue
of Alaska Building Science
News, also available online
for free, explains and simplifies the process of applying for income-based weatherization and programs that
rebate up to $10,000 for making energy improvements. An
oasis of information and free
advice from energy profes-
sionals is available at the Portal on Retrofits, Training and
Loans, open 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Monday through Friday at
326 Driveway St., Suite 100,
directly west of the NewsMiner building. The Portal
also streamlines the process
of scheduling an energy audit
and signing up for do-it-yourself courses offered by Seifert
and the Cooperative Extension Service.
“It’s a big education challenge to get people aware of
what they should do,” Seifert said. “These are exciting
times, no doubt about it. The
great juggernaut is just starting to roll.”
8
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
Weatherization Q&A from the Alaska Housing Finance Corp.
Q. When did the home
energy rebate program
begin?
A. As of May 16, 2008,
the Alaska Housing Finance
Corp. is accepting AkWarm
Energy Ratings performed
by AkWarm certified energy
raters for the home energy
rebate program. Click here
for a list of energy raters. You
will need to have an energy
rating done by one of them
to get started on the rebate
program.
Q. How do I get a home
energy rebate?
A. Sign up for an AkWarmTM certified energy rater
to perform an As-Is rating
of your home’s energy efficiency. Following the rating,
the rater will provide a list
of possible energy improvements specific to your home.
Choose from that list the best
improvements and make the
improvements yourself or hire
a contractor. Sign up on the
master list to have the rater
return to verify the work and
provide a new rating showing
how much the home’s energy
efficiency has improved. Apply
to AHFC for the rebate. You
have 18 months to apply for
the rebate from the date of
the initial as-is energy rating.
For more details about the
ALASKA HOUSING FINANCE CORP. WEATHERIZATION PROGRAM FACTSHEET
Saving energy
• The weatherization program is for individuals who meet certain income guidelines for eligibility.
• It provides free weatherization assistance for homes, rentals, and multifamily dwellings.
• The program has been in existence almost 30 years and has contributed to substantial energy savings throughout the state.
How it works
• Individuals should do an initial check of income guidelines based on community/region to see if they qualify.
• An individual or family with income less than the listed HUD requirements may qualify.
• Individuals should call the weatherization provider for their area of the state to check full eligibility requirements and apply for the program.
• Once accepted in the program, the client is put on a waiting list, and the home is scheduled for a weatherization assessment. The assessment determines the weatherization measures to be performed on the home.
• When they come to the top of the waiting list, the client’s home is scheduled for the weatherization work.
• Once completed by the weatherization crew, the work is verified by the weatherization assessor.
2008 Legislation and regulations
• The legislature provided AHFC with $200 million for the weatherization program.
• Income eligibility requirements were expanded from 60 percent of median income to 100 percent of median income. Priority is still given
to elderly, disabled, young children and families under 60 percent of median income.
• The five weatherization providers throughout the state have been expanded to include 15 state-designated housing authorities to do the
weatherization work.
• A person may not participate in both the weatherization program and the home energy rebate program.
More information
Check our Web site for the latest updates at www.ahfc.state.ak.us/energy or call the hotline at 1-877-325-2508 statewide.
program, rebate amounts, and rebate application?
requirements, see the home
A. After you have the
energy rebate program guide- required As-Is energy rating
lines.
performed, have completed
the recommended energy
Q. Where can I get a
improvements, and have the
homeowner home energy
Post Improvement energy
rating, you will apply for the
rebate using the post-rating
Made from the highest quality
rebate application form.
materials, Tucson Rolling
Shutters provide many
enhanced features for
securing and protecting door
and window openings:
Q. How do I sign up for
an energy rating?
A. Click here to contact or
! Security
! Severe weather protection
! Heat loss reduction
! Noise reduction
! Privacy
! Room darkening
EQUAL HOUSING
OPPORTUNITY
sign up with an energy rater
in order to participate in the
home energy rebate program.
The central list will allow
better coordination of energy
rating services around the
state. Once initiated, all new
individuals wishing to participate in the home energy
rebate program will be able
to contact the call center or
access the Web site to have
their name put on the central
listing.
HOME WEATHERIZATION
Current plans are for homeowners who are already on
existing energy rater lists to
be automatically added.
Q. Who pays for the
energy ratings for the
home energy rebate program?
A. The homeowner will
be reimbursed directly by
AHFC a total of $500 for the
Please see Q&A, Page 11
The weatherization program provides
weatherization work on houses, apartments,
& mobile homes for qualified households.
Renters and homeowners with low to moderate income may be eligible for thermal doors, windows, insulation, airsealing, weatherstripping and
heating system repair at absolutely no cost. Save money on your fuel and electric bills! The paperwork is extremely simple!
A household is automatically eligible if any household resident documents receipt of SSI, Energy Assistance (LIHEAP),
ATAP, TANF, Senior Care Benefits, APA/IA or Food Stamps. Homes weatherized after 3/31/08 are not eligible
RESIDENTIAL OR COMMERCIAL
APPLICATIONS
Income Guidelines
100% of Median Income:
! Manual or electric
control options
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Max Income
$52,300
$59,800
$67,200
$74,700
$80,700
$86,700
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1-800-478-5323
713 15th Avenue
www.interiorwx.org
9
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
Paid Advertising Content
Low Mass boilers versus High Mass
We are often asked to explain the differences between a high mass boiler and a low mass boiler. The answer is fairly simple;
high mass means large volume (generally cast iron) and low mass means small in size (generally welded steel). The idea behind
a big boiler is that once a train starts moving it’s hard to stop. The idea behind a low mass is more like a Prius, fast, light and
efficient.
First of all, the matter of efficiency is where, understandably, many people become confused . The government has rated the
different heating units according to the AFUE system. This is simply a laboratory test that says when you burn oil in this unit it
turns a certain percentage of the fuel into heat. The Brookhaven testing labs ,one of the most prestigious in the country, studied
the operation of all boilers in the field. They found that the AFUE rating was very misleading. Units that tested out at 95 percent
AFUE dropped down 12 points when tested in the field. Others dropped by as much as 26 points.
It has long been thought that a cast iron boiler would last longer than welded steel boilers, but that has not proven true in all
cases. The most popular low mass boiler (2.5 gallons water volume) has a 25 year limited lifetime warranty. Thousands of units in Fairbanks and throughout the states
are still in operation after 25 years.
It is also generally held to be true that a high mass boiler works better for radiant heating systems, but with proper installation, a low mass boiler can work quite well
for radiant heat and also save money
One problem that low mass boilers face is the fact that they generally have a lower stack temperature. The typical cast iron boiler has about a 500 degree F. stack
temperature the low mass units about 375 degrees F. This lower temperature can cause some problems if it is not handled correctly. Most times a proper stainless steel
liner can solve the problem because the existing chimney may simply be too big for the lower temperatures.
Cast iron boilers are generally very reliable and have only a few disadvantages. The main disadvantage is their inability to be turned off and on according to the
weather. This is particularly noticeable in summer.
(We all know someone who has a garage that is overheated by his cast iron boiler in the summer time.) Low mass boilers are designed to heat up and cool down as
many times as needed, and because of their size they are more adaptable to the changes in weather. Cast iron has the disadvantage of being easily damaged from thermal
shock. Most of us have heard about a cast iron boiler cracking. It is virtually unheard of for a welded steel boiler to crack from thermal shock.
High mass boilers are heavy. A typical one can weigh 700 pounds and they are not easily transported. Heaven help you if your boiler room is in the basement and
your 700 pound boiler has to be removed. Low mass boilers on the other hand are light and easily shipped or moved.
A high mass cast iron boiler is designed to idle constantly, and this is considered normal, yet if you did the same thing with your automobile you would certainly burn
more gasoline. There are several low mass boilers out on the market today that do not idle and as a result they can save as much as 30% on your fuel bill.
More interesting information about these boilers will be available at the upcoming Winter Show at the Carlson Center on September 25,26,27.
Bruce and Jaye Delbridge, Joshua Industries Inc.
Ask Joshua
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registered trademark of Energy Kinetics. †United States Department of
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18356157 9-12-09EG
•
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Installing Boilers And Heaters • Locally For Over 24 Years! • Jaye Delbridge, President
10
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
The where and why of using vapor barriers, house wraps
By COLD CLIMATE HOUSING
RESEARCH CENTER STAFF
Vapor barriers and house wraps
are a critical part of controlling moisture and air flow in and around your
home.
Working in conjunction with your
walls, floor and roof, the right type
and application of these products will
help you conserve energy, prevent
mold growth and maintain the structural integrity of your home.
Not using these products or using
one incorrectly can wreak havoc.
Vapor barriers
A vapor barrier, also known as a
vapor diffusion retarder, is a layer of
material designed to slow or nearly
block the movement of water vapor.
How much a vapor barrier impedes
the movement of water is referred
to as its permeability rating or, for
short, “perm” rating.
So it’s a bit misleading to use the
term vapor barrier because many
materials in this category do allow
some moisture through.
Six-mil thick plastic sheeting is a
typical vapor barrier material pre-
scribed by codes in extreme cold climates, as its perm rating is low.
All homes generate moisture
indoors. Cooking, bathing, breathing
— all these activities create water
vapor.
Ventilation, which is essential to
exchange moisture-laden air with
clean dry air, helps to reduce the
quantity of moisture in your home
but not enough to eliminate the need
for a vapor barrier.
Without a barrier, moisture can
penetrate your walls and roof spaces.
Approximately 98 percent of water
vapor in a home travels by air, but
the remainder moves by diffusion
through solid materials such as the
studs in your walls.
When these materials become cold
in winter, condensation forms and
can trigger mold growth and other
problems.
The extreme air pressure and temperatures differences that occur in
Fairbanks in winter exacerbate condensation problems.
And, in the case of modern construction, tight building envelopes
can serve to concentrate moisture
problems in the absence of adequate
ventilation.
House wraps
House wraps, on the other hand,
are designed to be permeable enough
to allow water vapor to pass through
them but will stop bulk water like
rain from passing through — sort of
like Gortex in clothing.
In addition, house wraps can help
minimize the movement of air in
and out of the exterior walls. Losing
air from a house in an uncontrolled
manner means you are losing heat.
This loss amounts to extra fuel costs
and can become a burden on your
budget.
To repel water effectively and
reduce airflow, house wraps must be
detailed correctly and applied using
the manufacturer’s recommended
methods and adhesives.
All those protrusions through your
walls such as vents, electrical connections and architectural features must
be carefully accounted for.
The right types of house wraps can
perform an important job in windy
places by stemming significant heat
loss.
Now comes the tricky part — some
house wraps can serve as vapor barriers and vice versa. Placement and
permeability is a fairly complicated
issue.
There might be certain cases when
house wraps are not necessary, but
when used are almost always placed
on exterior of a house and over its
sheathing.
Final thoughts
The placement and permeability of
vapor barriers and house wraps are
addressed by building codes but vary
by region.
Vapor barriers are required in
Fairbanks. This article only touches
on the details required to choose
and install vapor barriers and house
wraps.
The Cold Climate Housing
Research Center and Cooperative
Extension Service have resources you
can tap to help you make the right
decisions.
Doing your research up front can
save a lot of problems later on.
Energy Focus articles promote energy awareness for the Cooperative Extension Service and the Cold Climate Housing
Research Center. For questions or comments please contact CCHRC at 457-3454.
11
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
Q&A: Differences in home energy rebate program and weatherization program
combined ratings: Up to $325
is allowed for the initial Asis rating and up to $175 for
the post improvement rating.
Any rating costs over these
amounts are the responsibility
of the homeowner.
for the home energy
rebate program?
A. Yes.
Q. I heard there will be
a rebate for buying a new
5 Star Plus home. How do
I apply?
A. The Rebate program
may provide a $7,500 rebate
for qualified new 5 star plus
homes.
• 5 star plus application
and details
• 5 star plus new construction energy rebate encumbrance request
Q. Should I get an energy rating on my home now
so I can participate in the
home energy rebate program?
A. An As-Is energy ratQ. Who pays the upfront ing performed between April
cost for the energy-effi5, 2008, and May 15, 2008,
ciency improvements in
will be accepted as the initial
the home energy rebate
rating for the home energy
program?
rebate Program. However, the
Q: I want to become an
A. The homeowner. Howcosts of these ratings are paid energy rater for the home
ever, AHFC is offering loans
by the homeowner and will
energy rebate program.
to qualified borrowers up to
not be reimbursed by AHFC.
Who do I contact?
$30,000 through the second
The cost of ratings done after
A: AHFC trains raters
mortgage for energy conserva- May 15, 2008, will be reimthrough the Alaska Building
tion.
bursed by AHFC directly to
Science Network. However,
the homeowner, up to $325
the application submission
Q. What if I don’t have
for the as-is rating and $175
process is currently closed
the money upfront to pay
for the post-improvement rat- pending changes in regulafor the energy improveing. You will have 18 months
tions and review of applicaments in the home energy from the date of the as-is rat- tions already approved.
rebate?
ing to make improvements,
A. AHFC is offering loans
have the post-improvement
Q. What’s the difference
to qualified borrowers up to
rating completed, and submit between the home energy
$30,000 through the second
your application to AHFC for rebate program and the
mortgage for energy conserva- a rebate.
weatherization program?
tion.
A. The home energy rebate
Q. If I start working
program has no income
Q. Where do I get more
now on my house to make requirements and focuses on
information on how to
it more energy efficient,
owner-occupied homes. Homemake energy efficiency
will I get a home energy
owners pay for certain energyimprovements?
rebate?
efficiency improvements and
A. Visit the AHFC
A. The home energy
are rebated a portion of the
Research Information Center rebate program requires
cost for doing so. The weathweb page. Please note: only
an AkWarmTM energy raterization program has income
items listed in the AkWarm
ing prior to any work. Only
requirements, and the weathImprovement Options Report items listed in the AkWarm
erization work is provided for
following your home energy
Improvement Options Report free by specific weatherization
rating will be eligible for the
will be eligible for the proagencies and housing authorihome energy rebate. Talking
gram.
ties.
with your energy rater about
the best improvements and
Q. How long will it take
Q. Can I participate
what you should do is critical. to get my home energy
in both the home energy
rebate after I submit an
rebate program and the
Q. Will the home energy application to AHFC?
weatherization program?
rebate program be availA. It’s estimated that there
A: No. You may participate
able for rentals or busiwill be a 60-day turnaround
in one or the other program,
nesses?
time.
but not both.
A: The home energy
rebate program is focused on
owner-occupied homes. AHFC
intends to make the rebate
program available to as wide a
range of housing as practical.
Fall is the time for
Condos may qualify. Currently
• Kitchen & bath
the rebate program does not
remodels
include rentals or businesses
(such as a bed and breakfast).
• Window & door
Q. Are condos eligible
allow more people to qualify.
However, persons at 60 percent median income will have
a higher priority.
Q. Who do I contact to
see if I qualify for free
weatherization?
A. First check the income
guidelines to get a general
idea of your eligibility. Click
Please see Q&A, Page 15
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Q. What are the eligibility requirements for the
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18354975 9-12-09EG
Continued from Page 8
12
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
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Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
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[email protected]
14
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
State programs offer rebates, tips for energy efficiency
Energy- and construction-focused agencies across
the state regularly set aside
resources to help business
owners and managers, homeowners and other Alaskans
cut their heating costs.
In warmer states, such
efforts might amount simply
to a luxury service. In Alaska, which hosts the country’s
coldest, longest and darkest
winters, such efforts can easily be viewed as a near-necessity.
With less disposable income
floating around, such savings
programs become even more
important to Fairbanks.
The
state’s
Housing
Finance Corporation and
Fairbanks’ electrical association both offer energy-effi-
ciency aid.
The programs can help
people save on holiday lighting, completely remodel a
warehouse’s lighting system,
cut heating bills at home and
make other smart improvements in between.
Lighting
Light bulbs gobble up onefifth of the electrical use in
the United States, according
to the Golden Valley Electric
Association.
Research indicates that
figure can be halved if people
replace older, less-efficient
lighting with more modern
fixtures, the association says.
GVEA has a trio of programs to, respectively, help
people save electricity at
home, on the job, and when
constructing new homes.
First, the association’s HomeSense program lines residents
up with an energy-efficiency
specialist for a home “energy
audit.”
The $40 audit can leave
renters and homeowners with
tips on how to save energy,
and can also leave participants with up to a dozen
compact fluorescent bulbs,
a vehicle plug-in timer, an
electric insulating blanket for
their water heaters, a lowflow shower head and other
appliances.
Second is the association’s
BuilderSense program, where
participating home builders
can get partial rebates for
smart lighting moves, insulating a new home’s water
heater properly, and other
steps.
Third,
the
BusinessSense program extends up
to $20,000 to any business
that, working with GVEA
and an electrical contractor
under an approved business
plan, reduces its lighting load
through retrofit projects. The
business program is available
to firms that pay GVEA’s
commercial rates.
GVEA has more information on all those projects at
its Web site (www.gvea.com)
and its office (452-1151).
Home heating
The
Alaska
Housing
Finance Corp. last year
started a rebate program to
reimburse property owners
for making their homes more
energy-efficient.
The program supplemented a long-running weatherization effort available to
residents who earn up to, but
Thank you, Fairbanks and North Pole, for the great response to our previous ads!
Holiday lights
The association also suggests residents stick to energy-efficient holiday lights to
save on their electric bills.
Traditional — “standard
incandescent” — lights can
use almost 100 times as much
as the most efficient — “light
emitting diode (LED)” — holiday lights and have shorter
lifespans, meaning people
might save by buying cheaper
lights but will pay more in
the long run than with more
efficient products.
GVEA points to online
calculators (www.gvea.com/
memserv/energysense/kwhcalc.php) to help residents
figure out how much they’d
save by replacing standard
light bulbs with compact fluorescents.
Alaska Quality
Insulators, Inc.
With the Weatherization and Energy Rebate Program well on its way and winter fast approaching and it is not
looking like fuel prices will be dropping soon. There is still plenty of time to improve the energy efficiency of your
home before the high energy bills start arriving in the mail. After your energy rating is complete, give Alaska
Quality Insulators, Inc., a call for an estimate or to schedule your work.
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not above, the state’s median
income.
Both programs require
homeowners or renters to get
an energy audit prior to work.
Audits help pinpoint which
steps — such as sealing air
flows around plumbing and
lighting fixtures, re-insulating the ceiling, or fixing the
heating system — are most
important to cut a particular
home’s energy bills.
In the case of the weatherization program, available
to those who earn less than
median household income for
Alaska, the agency Interior
Weatherization (452-5323)
performs an audit and the
resulting work.
The rebate program, available to residents of all income
brackets, can return thousands of dollars to people who
improve their home’s energy-efficiency through a plan
approved by an energy rater.
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15
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
Q&A: Appliances, lighting
Q. Are energy-efficient
appliances and lighting
here for the weatherization
eligible for the rebate
program income guidelines.
program?
If you think you are eligible,
A: Energy Star appliances
contact one of the weatheriza- and lighting (www.energystion providers listed for your
tar.gov) are great idea when
area. Click here for a list of
upgrading your home and
weatherization program procan help reduce your energy
viders. If you live in a home
bills. However, appliances
owned by a State-designated
and lighting are not eligible
regional housing authority,
for a rebate at the present
you should contact the houstime.
ing authority directly.
Q. What kind of trainQ. Is the weatherizaing is AHFC offering to
tion program available for meet the demand for
rentals or condos?
additional contractors,
A: The weatherization pro- energy raters, etc?
gram does include rentals and
A. AHFC has a schedule
condos.
of training which is updated
quarterly and is being impleQ. Will homes that have mented through a number of
been weatherized in the
industry partners. Click here
past be eligible for the
for a list of scheduled trainweatherization program?
ing. (This training is not
A: If a home was weatheropen to the general public.)
ized prior to May 14, 2008, it
will be eligible to be re-weathQ. Does this program
erized in the weatherization
cover the cost of switchprogram for those individuals ing from oil heat to elecmeeting income guidelines.
tric or wood heating?
However, these previously
A. The energy rating looks
weatherized homes will not
at the home’s overall effibe as high a priority as those
ciency. It is able to model two
never weatherized.
different heating systems
(a primary and secondary).
Q. I am a building
Depending on all the other
materials supplier. Do I
components of the home,
contact AHFC about sup- it may support a new heatplying materials for the
ing system. When you have
home energy rebate or
the energy rating done, it’s
weatherization programs? a good idea to tell the rater
A. Suppliers will be workwhat you might be planning
ing with weatherization proto do so the rater can model
viders, housing authorities,
it in the energy-rating softhomeowners, and contractors
ware.
which choose to do weatherThe only items for which
ization work.
you can receive a rebate are
those that appear on the
Q. I am a contractor.
Improvement Options Report
Can I do work for the
for your home, which is
home energy rebate or
generated by the AkWarm™
weatherization programs?
energy-rating software.
A. Homeowners might
wish to hire a contractor to
Q. Is the home energy
help make energy improverebate
taxable income? I
ments to their homes for the
heard
that
I will receive a
home energy rebate program.
The weatherization program 1099 form from AHFC.
A. AHFC has received a
providers also hire either
legal
opinion from the State
crews or contractors. It is
of
Alaska
Department of
highly recommended that
Law,
which
requires AHFC to
contractors and other indiissue a 1099-G to individuals
viduals in the construction
who receive payments under
industry receive specialized
training in energy-efficiency this program. It is up to the
recipient to contact their tax
& weatherization work.
advisor about any possible
tax consequences.
A United Way of the Tanana Valley Member Agency
Providing care for seniors with Alzheimer’s
FAIRBANKS RESOURCE AGENCY• 805 AIRPORT RD. • 456-8901
Continued from Page 11
Save Energy
Save Money
Save the Planet
1
Get a Home$ense Audit from GVEA
2
Switch to compact fluorescent bulbs
3
Use a timer when plugging in vehicles
4
Unplug phantom appliances
5
Replace aging appliances with ENERGY STAR models
6
Turn off computers overnight
7
8
9
10
Plug computer components into one power strip
and turn off when not in use
Run dishwasher with full loads and air dry dishes
Install foam insulators behind outlets and switch
plates on exterior walls
Clean refrigerator coils every three months
16
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
Why Alaska is special when it comes to homebuilding
By RICH SEIFERT
update of the “Special Considerations” publication, we have
included a table, which specifies
by region the minimum insulation levels.
Look at which climate zone is
appropriate for your building. In
Fairbanks and the Interior, the
third-row figures are applicable
(Interior, Southwest Alaska).
Ceilings should have between
R-38 and R-49 insulation levels.
NORDIC SMART
Nokian has done one thing for over 70 years:
manufacture tires for people who live near the Arctic Circle.
They have never branched out to find other markets.
They are at home, much like Interior Alaska,
in the cold, dark and ice.
With energy prices volatile and
unpredictable, we urge more
than minimum levels of insulation in all buildings now being
constructed. This will likely be
a wise investment since it is
difficult to predict what the cost
of fuels will be in the future
with any certainty. Insulation
becomes more your friend every
day, as these costs increase.
Insulation will serve you for the
life of the building. It is a wise
and safe investment.
Please see BUILDING, Page 17
Up to $1500 Energy Tax Credit
Made in Finland, Nokian Tires are one of
the few things made specifically for
Fairbanks' climate.
North Pole Pipe
and Supply
Call for Information
(907) 488-4124
183561569/12/09EG
www.nokiantyres.com
455-7450
metropolitangarage.com
This is the equivalent of 1215 inches of fiberglass or cellulose. For exterior walls, R-25
is the minimum, or about eight
and a half inches of fiberglass
equivalent. Note that this is the
minimum, so it will be hard to
meet this specification with a
single-stud wall, although it can
be done.
Keep in mind that windows and doors are typically
big energy losers in modern
homes, so they should be optimized as well. This publication
gives minimums for those too.
16356091 9-12-09EG
A crucial Cooperative Extension Service publication on
homebuilding was updated
recently and new information
was added. It is the very Alaska-centered “Special Considerations for Building in Alaska.”
And are there ever special
things about building a home
Alaska that require planning,
preparation and experience. For
foundations there is the risk of
high water table, and in some
areas, the threat of permafrost
and its melting and subsidence,
which can make a wreck of a
new home. Even where there
isn’t the threat of permafrost,
the soil may be fine-grained and
subject to frost heave. This is
a condition where the soil may
freeze and move a foundation or
stress it to crack.
But energy use is also a great
concern. This is where insulation and sealing to prevent air
leakage are crucial. In the latest
CentralBoiler.com
17
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
Figure out your home’s orientation before you build
By CCHRC staff
Home orientation is one of
the first things to think about
when building a home.
Most houses are designed
for street appeal, meaning they
are designed to give a certain
appearance from the street.
Others are designed with
windows carefully placed to
capture a fantastic view. In our
climate, it’s important to take
into account topography of the
property, solar orientation,
wind direction, vegetation,
shade and proper drainage.
You may hear a lot about
the importance of south-facing
windows.
In the winter, a home will
get more sun from the south.
South-facing windows can
enable passive solar power to
provide heat to the home.
Many south-facing homes
in the Fairbanks North Star
Borough see a decrease in fuel
usage in late February and
March.
If your home has a lot of
north-facing windows, you are
going to lose more heat and
gain less heat as well.
If you are on a south slope,
and you orient your windows
to the southwest, you are going
to get the hotter afternoon sun
heating your home.
If you orient a little more
toward the east and the southeast, you’ll get the morning
sun. These are things you’ll
have to think about when looking at your site.
Proper orientation is important if you wish to add solar
panels to your home.
South-facing panels are
going to gather more light, and
therefore, more power.
Seasonal shading from exte-
BUILDING: Need to know
Continued from Page 16
The publication is numbered
HCM-00952 and may be downloaded from Extension’s online
publications catalog at www.uaf.
edu/ces/pubs. It is also available
at the Tanana District office
or may be ordered by calling
1-877-520-5211.
Rich Seifert is the energy and
housing specialist with the University
of Alaska Fairbanks Cooperative Extension Service. He may be reached
at 474-7201 or [email protected].
Many southfacing homes in
the Fairbanks
North Star
Borough see a
decrease in fuel
usage in late
February and
March.
rior sources is something else
you will want to keep in mind.
You don’t want as much
shade in the winter, but you
will in the summer, particularly on the south and west
side of a home. It’s nice to
have some vegetation to slow
Visit us at the Winter Show at the Carlson Center
18356052 9-12-09EG
www.canvasAK.com
455-7722
“The Door Store”
RS
E
AV
TR
ce
E
ce
i
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I S eS e
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CO
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MM
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&
RE
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IA
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Call
DR. DOOR
457-7221
Fax: 457-7211
2626 Phillips Field Rd.
Fairbanks, AK 99709
Bonded & Insured
Lic #23550
www.Klondikedoor.com
Energy Focus articles promote
home awareness for the Cooperative Extension Service (CES) and
the Cold Climate Housing Research
Center (CCHRC). For questions or
comments please contact CCHRC
at (907) 457-3454.
1.
“Alaska gas within two years” is my pledge. The clock
would not start on PPM2.5 until natural gas is fully available
at a cost similar to that enjoyed in South-central. Further, I will
expect all political and fiscal support possible for us to obtain
affordable natural gas to heat our homes and businesses.
I will seize local control of PPM2.5 to insure the
implementations are favorable to our
unique circumstances.
Concurrently, the university’s air
movement model will be completed
and calibrated, then used to update
and confirm existing databases so
implementation can be focused
rather than a blanket toss.
Furthermore, I will insist wildfires will
be exempted when determining
borough violations. Think about it.
No government, at any level, gains
credibility when mandating the
impossible. Lastly, while all
PPM2.5 violators may be
identified, they will be given
technical and possible financial
assistance, only commercial violators
would be subject to possible
prosecution.
Hank Bartos
For
Mayor
Paid for by Hank Bartos • 1427 Gilliam Way, Fairbanks AK 99701
13356090 9-12-09EG
LO
T
EN
11356028-9-12-09ET
R
K OO
D
M
IKE
Know where the sun will be
at noon in the winter. If you
are a morning person and need
that morning light, orient your
home so that morning light
comes in.
If you like to entertain in
the evening, and you like to
go out on your deck, it will be
important to face that deck
toward the west or the northwest.
Before you begin building, make a list of the ideals
you want for your home and
compare it with what you can
accomplish on the actual site.
Get the big picture of how
orientation will affect your life
in your new home.
As Borough Mayor, the issues of energy and
particulate matter in the air (PPM2.5) are the first
issues I will immediately address. These are grave
issues facing our communities and are so entwined
that tackling one affects the other. I will solve with
a common sense approach.
My priority list is as follows:
2.
NEW LOCATION at 2081 Van Horn Rd. #4
the capture of the solar heat in
the summer afternoons.
Wind direction is important
to consider when orienting a
house. In some areas, prevailing winds can pile up snow in
front of windows and doors.
However, orienting your
house to shield from the wind
is more of a consideration for
coastal regions than in Interior Alaska.
Before you break ground,
observe the drainage features
on your property. You will alter
that drainage when you start
moving dirt. Water will tend
to drain in a certain pattern
around your home, which can
be detrimental to your foundation.
Ideally, when you buy a
piece of land, get to know that
piece of land before you build
on it. Understand where shade
will be during the summer.
18
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
With so many options, what’s the best boiler for your home?
By ADAM WASCH
Modern boilers offer a wide
range of customized options
to maximize efficiency. If your
boiler has an old pilot light that
stays lit all the time, you’re
probably a good candidate for
a replacement boiler or, at
least, a retrofit. Alaska’s many
heating days justify paying for
the most efficient system up
front, since the extra money
you spend for efficiency gains
will be paid back several times
during the system’s operating
lifetime.
But take care — there is no
perfect system because of the
number of variables involved
in designing a boiler that is
sized and outfitted correctly for
your particular home. Looking
for an Energy Star label is a
good start, but there’s a lot
more to consider. Ensure that
whomever you hire to provide,
install or retrofit a system is
cognizant of the fine details
and performs necessary calculations. These calculations
are especially important if
you’re installing the sophisticated components and sensors
required by today’s most efficient boilers.
First, the basics. Boilers
heat water, which is pumped
throughout a system of pipes
and radiators that conduct
heat into your rooms. Boiler
efficiency is measured by its
annual fuel utilization efficiency. There is some dispute
how useful AFUE ratings are
because they do not account
well for heat loss from boilers
that maintain operating temperatures throughout the day.
Also, AFUE does not measure
heat loss from boilers or pipes
that are located outside insulated living spaces such attics,
basements and garages. AFUE
will not account for room heat
that escapes from open flues.
Nevertheless, AFUE remains
a basic standard.
Most boilers are connected to a baseboard loop system, which is just a series of
low-profile radiators that distribute heat along the length
of a pipe in a room before
returning water to the boiler.
A single thermostat triggers
heating cycles. New boilers are
required to attain a minimum
AFUE rating of 80 percent,
which means 80 percent of the
heat generated is useful heat
instead of heat that escapes up
the chimney.
A major design option is to
install a radiant floor heating system. In this scenario,
loops of pipes are placed into
your subfloor to heat from the
floor level up. This arrangement can produce more even
heat throughout a room than a
baseboard system can because
the whole of the room’s floor
space can be crisscrossed with
pipes. Also, a radiant floor system has the benefit of producing more thermal comfort
because more of the heat is felt
in the living space instead of
rising to the ceiling.
The next major decision is
whether you will install a standard combustion boiler or a
condensing boiler. A condensing boiler is more efficient but
more expensive. These boilers generate more useful heat
by extracting energy from the
flue gas and condensing the
water vapor created by the
combustion process. This process makes possible AFUE ratings of 90 percent or greater.
One reason these boilers are
more expensive is that they
require a stainless steel heat
exchanger and a way to drain
the condensate.
Please see BOILER, Page 23
Knowing the best way to go green with your home can be tough
By ADAM WASCH
Green is a one-word metaphor for
earth-friendly. Or good health. It might
refer to renewable products. Surely
you’ve heard of sustainable. Bio-based?
Organic? How about socially responsible? Who’s responsible for this? More
often than not, marketers are — that’s
who. So be careful whose claims you
believe.
All products present tradeoffs
between cost, quality and convenience.
And every product affects the environment or our health in some way. These
impacts can be measured by considering what ingredients go into making
a product, the energy used during the
manufacturing process, and the fuel
consumed to transport products to mar-
ket. How long a product lasts and if it
can be recycled are additional concerns.
Your definition of “green” will vary
based on your criteria. For example,
recycling is generally thought to be
a green practice but not always. In
Fairbanks, recycling glass can consume
more energy than it saves because of
the transportation involved. Plus, glass
requires a lot of energy to clean and
transform for other use. Because glass is
inert and not especially damaging when
buried, recyclers tend to focus instead
on recycling metal or plastics.
Is it better to operate an efficient oil
furnace or burn wood, which is renewable, but typically produces less efficient
heat and causes more air pollution?
Fairbanks relies on electricity produced
by burning coal, but even clean coal
technology produces hazardous waste.
Emissions control systems prevent pollutants from entering the air, but the
pollutants still have to be stored.
Some green ideas seem to strike at
the heart of our values. For example,
it is more efficient and impacts the
environment less when people live in
multifamily housing units, use public
transportation and reside in temperate climate zones. This pretty much
excludes the way of life loved by many
Alaskans. Should we move?
Green thinking can become politicized quickly if people feel it infringes
on their way of life or threatens their
economic security. This is why the most
highly marketed green ideas emphasize
efficiency and economy. Few people balk
when they are encouraged to weatherize
their homes because, throughout time,
it will save them money. Or, if investing
in renewable energy technology such as
electric cars creates much-needed jobs,
then doing so likely will receive widespread support.
Most of us aren’t up for all this navelgazing. We just want a way to help our
communities, enjoy clean air and water
and live healthier. Here’s a short checklist on how to do your part, without getting too complicated:
• Use salvaged products — The best
way to reduce unnecessary consumption
is to reuse as much as you can.
• Recycle — If you can recycle it, then
do. Buy products with high percentages
of post-consumer recycled content or
Please see GREEN, Page 23
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19
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
Keep your home cool with energy-efficient strategies
By ADRIAN SAINZ
AP Real Estate Writer
Find yourself sweating
inside your house during the
long, hot days of summer?
Are high utility costs enough
to make you perspire on their
own?
Strategies such as eliminating air leakage, upgrading
attic insulation, and installing a new air conditioning
system and ceiling fans help
keep your home cool efficiently, and can help save on
energy costs in the process.
On average, heating and cooling a home costs about $1,000
a year, nearly half the total
energy bill for the house, the
Environmental Protection
Agency reports.
Through 2010, a federal tax
credit is available for energy
efficiency upgrades for insulation, windows, central air
conditioners and heat pumps.
The credit refunds 30 percent of the purchase price for
energy-efficient products, up
to a total of $1,500. Homeowners can use the tax credit
for cooling systems, and many
local power companies offer
rebates for installing more
efficient products.
Best practices
energy efficiency upgrades for insulation, windows,
central air conditioners and heat pumps.
The credit refunds 30 percent of the purchase
price for energy-efficient products, up to a total of
$1,500.
$100. That project will save
about $51 in annual utility
costs, the NAHB said.
Another tip is to cover windows with shades or blinds, to
keep hot sunlight out.
Homeowners can also
plant trees to give the home
shade. West-facing windows
are important to protect
because it’s typically hotter
in the afternoon. Other shade
options include overhangs
and awnings.
Finding the
right product
Decide if you need room
air conditioners or a central
unit. Homes with many rooms
would benefit from a central
unit, while studios apartments or efficiencies will be
more likely to have units in
individual rooms.
Also, check the condition
of ceiling fans and pick out
rooms that would benefit
from the added circulation of
a new ceiling fan, such as living rooms and bedrooms.
Cooling systems vary in
cost, depending on the system
size and price the contractor
will charge for installation.
But count on spending at
least $2,000 for a new central
air conditioner. Adding ducts
to the home will bring the
cost up even more.
Room air conditioners typically cost between $150 and
$600, depending on the size
and model.
When considering buying
a central air conditioner or
heat pump (which both cools
and heats a home), homeown-
ers should ask a local contractor to check for leaks in the
house that allow cool air to
escape. The contractor evaluates whether ducts need to be
sealed, insulated or replaced,
and whether windows and
doors are properly sealed.
Holes hidden in attics,
crawl spaces and basements
should be sealed.
The key measurement of a
central air conditioner is the
SEER rating (officially the
“Seasonal Energy Efficiency
Ratio). The higher the rating, the higher the energy
efficiency.
SEER ratings of 14 to 21
are becoming more common,
but the system typically gets
more expensive as you move
up the SEER scale. Proponents of high-SEER systems
stress that savings on utilities
outweigh the cost.
When looking for energy
efficient products, check if
they carry an Energy Star
rating by the Environmental
Protection Agency.
The EPA began using the
rating in 1992 as a way to
reduce greenhouse gas emissions through better energy
efficiency. It includes more
than 60 products, which are
listed on the EPA’s Web site,
www.energystar.gov.
The more reliable products are among the most
well known in the industry
— Trane, Rheem and Ruud,
according to a July 2009
product reliability survey of
more than 32,000 readers of
Consumer Reports magazine.
Other brands include General
Electric, Carrier, Lennox and
American Standard.
Nearly two-third of readers in the Consumer Reports
survey who had a problem
with their central air conditioning said the unit broke
down for a day, and about one
in three reported a complete
system failure. About half
of those reporting problems
spent $150 or more to get
cool again, Consumer Reports
said.
For ceiling fans, blades sizes range from 29 to 54 inches,
with the most popular being
the 52-inch model, according
to the EPA.
Smaller rooms need a fan
size of 29 to 36 inches, while
the larger rooms take 50 to 54
inch fans.
Standard mounts come
with a 3 to 5 inch “downrod”
— the metal pipe that extends
from the ceiling bracket down
to the fan. Longer mounts are
available for higher ceilings.
Here’s a good tip from the
EPA. In summertime, use
the fan in a counterclockwise
direction, which forces cool
air down and gives the feeling of a breeze. In winter, a
clockwise direction at slow
speed produces an updraft
Maintenance
The easiest way to ensure
a long life for the cooling
system is changing the filter
regularly — once a month is a
good starting point.
Cooling coils should be
cleaned at least once a year.
Cooling systems in homes
with furry pets that shed hair
will be more susceptible to
getting dirty and potentially
malfunctioning.
Make sure the contractor
you choose to install your air
conditioning system or heat
pump is licensed and insured.
The product should have
a warranty as well, so fill
out the correct paperwork to
ensure that you are covered.
Many sellers and installers of air conditioners should
have maintenance agreements
in which the consumer pays
a yearly fee for visits from
repairmen to make sure the
product is working correctly.
By the numbers
So far this year, combined
U.S. factory shipments of
central air conditioners and
air-source heat pumps have
totaled more than 2.7 million,
down 18 percent compared
with January to June of last
year.
That’s according to the
Air-Conditioning, Heating
and Refrigeration Institute.
The struggling economy
may be a reason for this drop,
but companies like Rheem
are seeing more buyer activity due to the tax credit, said
Carrol Basham, an assistant
product manager at Rheem.
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There are many ways to
make sure your home stays
cool in the best way possible,
without buying a new air conditioning systems or adding
ceiling fans.
First, check to make sure
your attic is properly insulated. An uninsulated attic
allows too much cool air to
escape and too much warm
air to enter. Adding or updating the insulation is one of
the easiest ways to make a
home more energy efficient.
According to the National
Association of Home Builders,
upgrading inefficient insulation in the attic of a twostory, 2,000 square foot home
in Chicago can cost around
$1,000, but the tax credit lowers that cost to $700.
Added to an energy efficient rebate from MidAmerican Energy in Chicago for up
to $600, the cost can drop to
Through 2010, a federal tax credit is available for
that pushes warm air down
into the room.
20
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
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Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
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22
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
What to look for when buying an energy-efficient house
Shopping for a home in
Fairbanks can be difficult,
especially if energy efficiency
is a priority. With heating oil
prices volatile and resale value at stake, finding the most
fuel-efficient home makes
sense. An efficient home also
has the advantage of helping to alleviate Fairbanks’ air
quality problems, which are
particularly bad in winter.
The following are some of
the things you should look for
in an efficient home.
Site Location
Because of sunlight, homes
situated on south-facing slopes
will be warmer in the winter
and consume less energy for
heat than comparable homes
on north-facing slopes or
obscured by dense tree cano-
pies. Deciduous trees, such
as Alaska birch, are desirable
because they lose their leaves
in winter and allow sunlight
to shine through.
Ideally, homes should be
situated lengthwise east to
west to take advantage of the
sun.
Protection from wind, provided by trees or hills, will
help to conserve heat in winter. Low-lying evergreens or
shrubs placed on the sides of
houses that are exposed to
wind also will help conserve
heat.
Using the ground as a barrier against cold is a great way
to moderate heat loss. Houses
that are partially covered by
earth or use other natural
features of the landscape to
insulate against heat loss are
desirable.
Design
The overall shape of the
house will affect its heat loss
because of the amount of
wall space exposed to the elements. L-shaped, H-shaped,
or U-shaped homes tend to
lose more heat than rectangular homes.
Houses that share common
walls with other structures,
such as townhomes, lose less
heat than detached homes.
Arctic entryways that are
sealed from the outside and
the inside living areas by
separate doors help to retain
heat.
South-facing windows are
preferable to windows on any
other axis because of their
ability to collect sunlight and
minimize heat loss.
Plumbing should be run
inside heated or indirectly
heated areas and consolidated
as much as is practical. Sinks,
baths and laundry should be
close to the water heater to
minimize standby heat loss or
on-demand water heaters can
be used.
Insulation
There’s a saying among
energy raters in Alaska —
“You can’t over-insulate; you
can only under-ventilate.”
When inspecting a house, ask
about how much and what
kind of insulation is in the
floor, walls and attic. Other
than weather-tight construction, no other factor will
affect a home’s energy use
more than insulation. But
insulation without adequate
ventilation is an invitation to
trouble resulting from moisture problems.
All gaps and cracks in the
house should be well sealed
or caulked.
Doors and windows need
effective weather-stripping.
These are just some of the
details of which to be aware.
A more complete list is available by reading the University of Alaska Cooperative
Extension Service’s publication “Searching the Market
for Energy-Saving Homes
— A Checklist for Alaska.”
This publication is available
for free online at www.uaf.
edu/ces/pubs. Or check out
the Cold Climate Housing
Research Center’s “Buying
an Energy Efficient Home in
Fairbanks,” which is available
for pickup at CCHRC.
Energy Focus articles promote
home awareness for the Cooperative Extension Service and the Cold
Climate Housing Research Center.
For questions or comments, contact CCHRC at 457-3454
Wind power remains largely untapped in Alaska
By ADAM WASCH
Alaska’s energy resources
amount to more than the oil
and gas that have so much
transformed the state during
the past 40 years. One largely untapped resource is wind
power. Large-scale operations,
such as a growing wind farm
in Kotzebue and plans for a 1.5
megawatt wind farm on Fire
Island near Anchorage underscore the potential of wind
energy in Alaska. But what
about residential wind power?
Wind power can help make
NOW AVAILABLE!
3740 Braddock St.
Tel: 907-456-6200
Fax: 907-456-8295
1-800-478-6204
E-Mail:
[email protected]
www.hoffer-glass.com
your home more energy independent, cut your fuel bills,
and reduce air pollution. Best
of all, wind power keeps giving and giving, with no emissions and minimal maintenance. So, yes, investing in
wind power can make financial
sense if your home is ideally
located where there’s wind.
But the costs can be high initially. A medium-sized system
sufficient to meet most of an
average home’s needs will run
between $10,000 and $20,000
professionally installed.
Though wind generation is
generally considered environmentally friendly, you should
check local codes, covenants
and other possible restrictions
before investing any money.
Especially if you have a smaller lot, it’s a good idea to take
your neighbors into consideration. An acre or more of
space is advisable to ensure
the equipment is far from other structures.
Although not nearly as tall
as cell phone towers, small
wind generators tend to attract
attention and produce at least
some sound.
Low-E
Storm Panels
• Energy saving window inserts
• Custom fabricated (white, bronze)
• Save money
• Save energy
• Easy installation
• Adds up to 1.6 R-Value to your
existing windows
18355045-9-12-09ET
13356088-9-12-09EG
By CCHRC Staff
23
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
Continued from Page 18
are remade from waste product. Use reusable fabric grocery
bags instead of the disposable
plastic ones.
• Buy products that last
— Durable, well-made products
will be replaced less often and
in the long run can save you
money.
• Buy local — Using material and food products that are
made close to home saves all
kinds of energy and will help to
support your community.
• Minimize your use of toxic
or poisonous substances — Vinegar and soap often can be just
as effective as that glowing
green stuff that comes out of
yet another plastic bottle.
• Favor renewable resources
— Support solar-, wind- and
hydropower when reasonable.
Conserve non-renewable fuels
by using them as efficiently as
possible.
Too much hullabaloo about
what is or isn’t the most right
thing to do can distract from the
underlying point: Being even a
lighter shade of green can help
to preserve our environment
and our way of life.
Adam Wasch promotes energy
awareness for the Cooperative
Extension Service and the Cold
Climate Housing Research Center.
For questions or comments, please
contact CCHRC at 457-3454.
BOILER: Fuel-saving strategies for home
Continued from Page 18
Boilers that purge system
heat at the end of each operating cycle help to minimize
wasted heat. Sealed combustion
systems might offer further
fuel savings. Sealed combustion
systems require an exterior air
source and a dedicated vent. A
boiler fitted with an outdoor
reset, which senses outdoor
temperatures, can increase efficiency by reducing the boiler
system’s water temperature as
low as possible while still meeting a home’s heating demand.
Other fuel-saving strategies
include installing a set-back or
programmable thermostat that
regulates heating according to
your daily schedule. Zoning, in
combination with two or more
thermostats, can regulate what
parts of your house are heated
more than others depending on
use.
Want to improve an existing
boiler instead of replacing it?
Your options will vary depending on the system’s age and
type of fuel used. For example,
installing vent dampeners that
close off a boiler’s access to the
chimney when it isn’t operating
can reduce standby heat loss.
Electric ignitions eliminate the
need for continuous pilot lights.
Some older boilers that might
have been oversized initially
can be “de-rated” to burn less
fuel while providing the same
amount of useful heat.
Whether new or old, proper
sizing and design of a boiler
system is critical and is best
performed by a professional.
Contact the Cold Climate Housing Research Center or Cooperative Extension Service for
more information or take a look
at the Department of Energy’s
Web site on the subject at www.
energysavers.gov/your_home/
space_heating_cooling.
Adam Wasch promotes energy
awareness for the Cooperative Extension Service and the Cold Climate
Housing Research Center.
For questions or comments please
contact CCHRC at 457-3454.
17355578 9-12-09EG
GREEN: Buy quality goods
24
Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Saturday, September 12, 2009
Save Energy – Save Money
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Compact
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LED Floodlights
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60 LED
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An LED light bulb can last up to 50,000
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Compact fluorescent lightbulbs save as much as
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3
20 oz.
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Window & Door
3" R-Tech
20 oz. with applicator
Rigid Insulfoam
99
7
Window & Door
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A tighter home is a toastier home. Before you
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25' Fiberglass
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