How to make your heated bed Written By: cr3a7ure INTRODUCTION
How to make your heated bed How to make your heated bed A simple modification to make your own heated bed with printrbot assembled and a rotary tool. Written By: cr3a7ure INTRODUCTION With this small guide, i want to share with you the way i made my heated bed. I got my printrbot working with the motors hooked up, but without the "heat" part. You can see from the first picture no bed and no extruder are on. TOOLS: drill bit (1) PARTS: Copper PC Board (1) rotary tool (1) © 2014 help.printrbot.com Page 1 of 12 How to make your heated bed Step 1 — Getting Started Make sure all of your parts are clean and ready to be assembled. Help make this guide the best it can be. Edit it and improve it so others can build their own Printrbot. Step 2 Connect the rods to the Base Help make this guide the best it can be. Edit it and improve it so others can build their own Printrbot. © 2014 help.printrbot.com Page 2 of 12 How to make your heated bed Step 3 Complete assemble of rods and base. Flip Printrbot over. Help make this guide the best it can be. Edit it and improve it so others can build their own Printrbot. Step 4 — Motor Make sure you have all the parts for the motor assembly. Connect Motor to drive. Help make this guide the best it can be. Edit it and improve it so others can build their own Printrbot. © 2014 help.printrbot.com Page 3 of 12 How to make your heated bed Step 5 Help make this guide the best it can be. Edit it and improve it so others can build their own Printrbot. Step 6 Help make this guide the best it can be. Edit it and improve it so others can build their own Printrbot. © 2014 help.printrbot.com Page 4 of 12 How to make your heated bed Step 7 — Let's Print! Now that you have a fully assembled Printrbot, you can print another one for your friend. Here is a link to Thingiverse, where you can download the files to print another Printerbot. Everyone should thank Brook Drumm for making the files available to all. Help make this guide the best it can be. Edit it and improve it so others can build their own Printrbot. © 2014 help.printrbot.com Page 5 of 12 How to make your heated bed Step 8 — How to make your heated bed © 2014 help.printrbot.com Page 6 of 12 How to make your heated bed I got the flex shaft from my rotary tool and placed it with an angle at the extruder's base in order to measure the dimensions i needed to cut the mdf. It's a plain P type that holds the back of the "pen". I had not put the Z-axis on, just the rods. In order to keep the X-axis on the correct height i used 2 pieces of wood with two screws. In that way the small wooden pieces would "hug" the Z rod and the X-axis was lying on them. I coved the Z motors i order not to get any copper dust. I suggest though to mount fully the Z-axis. I did this in a little time and many things can go better. While the front type is tightly tied. You can use zip-ties or some wire. You should fit it properly based on the goemetry. In order to place it firmly i cut a small piece from the mdf already removed, and place it in between the "pen" and the top of the base. You can see a small piece of wood at the photo just in the middle, in front of the "pen".It was pretty tight and no wobble from the first test to the final milled line. © 2014 help.printrbot.com Page 7 of 12 How to make your heated bed When you are about to test it remember to start with the smallest speed and then accelerate. Although at 20.000rpm i had no problem. © 2014 help.printrbot.com Page 8 of 12 How to make your heated bed Step 9 © 2014 help.printrbot.com Page 9 of 12 How to make your heated bed For the milling bit i used a diamond one. It did the job easily and the angle offered shallow lines. The copper board is 15x15cm and screwed on the base. Because of the angle the bit cant access the whole surface. You will need to mill and then turn it around and continue the milling. If you are experienced enough you can create your own gcode for the task. I just stayed above it and gave the motion instructions through prontereface. My printrbot wasn't calibrated neither the bed was level. So i was counting its steps when clicking the move button and i had my fingers on the wooden base in order to press or release it to get an even cutting line. You better level your bed for sure. When driving the machine by hand you should count the steps and then give them continously. If the "pen" stops waiting for your next command it will drill deeper. Not so bad but you can avoid it. Also default speeds at pronterface are too high! I can't remember the numbers but i think it was about 50-100mm/s. © 2014 help.printrbot.com Page 10 of 12 How to make your heated bed http://www.youtube.com/watch? v=pU4eKcRYY... http://www.youtube.com/watch? v=nY8_PYh1H... Step 10 The outcome wasn't bad at all. But i made a mistake at the path. When the drill moves at the Y-axis it should be lifted in order to create the right pattern. Otherwise, you can cut parallel lines from one end to another and then solder them. You can see the levelling problem clearly. And the no-movement problem at the 4th line clearly. There are small holes every 1mm. © 2014 help.printrbot.com Page 11 of 12 How to make your heated bed Step 11 If you choose to mill parallel lines then you will have to solder them in a way that they create a zig-zag path for the current. Measure the resistance at the two ends. I got 4ohms and i'm almost sure i didn't short-circuit any copper lines. Solder your cable and give some power. At 12V the current is 3A and it will hit 60-70 in 3-4 minutes or less. This document was last generated on 2014-08-05 05:41:42 AM. © 2014 help.printrbot.com Page 12 of 12
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