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How to Look
Great in Your
Headshot or
Portrait
Scott R. Kline
scottrklinephoto.com
How to Look Great in Your Headshot or Portrait
Creating thousands of portraits has taught me how anyone can look their best in any photo. (Like that of
Christine Weber of DIRTT Environmental Solutions, above.) You can look your best in an iPhone shot or in a
fully lit portrait with a stylist, makeup artist and hairdresser. Over the course of five chapters, we will detail
the things you can do to look your best. These tips are great for photographers too. You can coach your
subjects to bring out their inner movie star.
Here are the five categories we discuss in this guide.
Use Makeup and Have Your Hair Done – Men and women can both benefit from makeup. Whether it is just
getting rid of that annoying shine or using the makeup to dramatize you best features. Tips are delivered
by a hair and make-up professional.
Wear Clothes That Accentuate Your Features - Wear clothes that support rather than distract from your
face. You can still express yourself with your wardrobe, but these tips will maximize your results.
Pose Like a Star - Imagine a scenario or scene to get you in the mood. More tips on how to look natural in
front of the camera including, practicing in advance.
Turtle Up – None of us likes a double chin. Accentuate that jaw line by moving your face to the camera. All
the news anchors do it. Why shouldn’t you? Tips on expressions and head positions as well.
Worship the Light – We aren’t really suggesting you become a pagan, but light is everything in a photo.
Get out of the sun and face the biggest light source available. We show you how to position yourself for the
most flattering light.
Visit my headshot gallery at scottrklinephoto.com.
Makeup and Hair Tips
What are the key makeup techniques that look best in a portrait? We interviewed one of our favorite makeup artists
to find out. She shares her tips and suggestions in this article.
Andrea Marie Ortega is a San Francisco based professional makeup artist and educator. She has provided the makeup for me on several shoots.The headshots above is of Andrea at a recent session where we created her identity
photos. We illustrate the techniques she discusses in this Q&A in this and other photos.
On a photo shoot with lights and a crew, we usually have a Makeup Artist (MUA) like Andrea. But you can use many
of these hints for less formal shots. If you know you have an event where you will want make-up for photos, you can
also contact Andrea or other professional to have your makeup and hair done in advance. This article is not just for
women either. There are tips (and photos) for men at the end of this article.
What are some makeup basics that people can keep in mind prior to having their portrait taken?
Concealer is major. Be sure to have a concealer that is the correct tone of your skin. Use it to cover up any discoloration on the skin such as blemishes, dark circles around the eyes, redness around the nose and cheeks, sun damage brown spots, etc. A concealer that does a really good job of mimicking skin is MAC’s Studio Finish Concealer.
When applying your concealer use a tapping or patting motion, so that you don’t irritate the skin. In other words,
try to avoid rubbing the concealer into the skin; this will only create more redness. An even skin tone will make any
photo more flattering! For women, be sure to accentuate your features so that they won’t get lost in the photo. Use
mascara on your lashes, a bit of eyeliner on the upper eyelid, bronzer or blush, and lipstick! Even if you are not used
to wearing any makeup, do it for the photos! The goal is to look like a polished version of yourself, so that you will
photograph flawlessly. When in doubt, use a professional makeup artist.
What are some things to keep in
mind for hair in a photo? I know as a
photographer I hate retouching all
those stray hairs.
The most important thing to worry
about for hair is frizz and fly-aways.
This goes for both men and women. Fly-aways are the hairs that
seem to have a mind of their own,
that don’t lay down with the rest of
the hair. They can be tamed with
the right product such as TIGI Bed
Head’s Hair Stick. Lightly rub the
stick across your palm and use your
palm to smooth the loose hairs into
the rest of your tresses. For women,
applying a little heat to your hair,
such as blow drying, curling, or flat
ironing will give your hair a smooth
and polished finish.
We all hate that shine we get in
flash photos. What can be done
besides major retouching?
A good blotting powder should be
dusted onto the face, focusing on the
forehead and nose, which reflect the
most shine in photos. Use a brush
to pick up the powder and apply it to
the skin. MAC’s Blot Powder in your
appropriate tone will do an excellent
job of absorbing shine.
You stressed lipstick, even if someone doesn’t normally wear it. Tell
us about that.
Find a tone that enhances your natural lip color, and don’t be afraid to
be expressive. Lipsticks are a great
way to express who you are! Have
fun with color and try them on before
buying. There are so many out there
and there is bound to be one (or 5)
that makes you feel amazing!
And you are a big mascara advocate.
USE IT! Try to find a mascara that
won’t clump or smudge. And use
plenty of it. Your eyes will grateful
once you see your photos.
I haven’t worn makeup since the
high school drama club. What about
us guys?
Tips for Men: Skin is what you have
to work with, so make the most of it.
Men should be using a daily moisturizer to keep the skin healthy and
prevent signs of aging. Kiehl’s has a
great line of men’s facial products
that won’t have all of those femme
scents attached.
For photos, be sure to have a powder on hand to blot out shine like
MAC Blot powder in the appropriate
shade. It is a translucent powder
that comes in light, medium, medium dark, dark. If you don’t have
hair on your head, look out for the
forehead on up. This area will pick
up the most shine, and can be quite
distracting in photos. A fabulous
product from MAC is their Skin
Refined Zone, which is a lightweight
clear cream that will really minimize
shine. Gently rub it into the nose,
forehead, and head. Other things to
look out for: eyebrows - comb them
into shape, nose hairs - trim them,
lips - apply lip balm to relieve dryness, inner eye gunk- clean it out,
and get a haircut a few days before
your photo shoot!
Thanks Andrea. You can contact
Andrea through her website at andreamarieortega.com. You can see
my portraits and headshots on my
website at scottrklinephoto.com.
What to Wear for Your Headshot
The most common question I get before a photo shoot is “What should I wear?” So I asked Catherine Montalbo
(Shown in the photo above), a San Francisco-based certified image consultant for her guidance. (For more on Catherine see her bio at the end of the chapter or click on the link with her name.) The questions posed here are some of
the questions I am asked most often, followed by Catherine’s answers.
I have a photo shoot coming up, what should I wear or not wear?
The number one thing you should NOT wear is something that you are not comfortable in. If you are uncomfortable
in your clothes, this will be very apparent in your photos. This isn’t the time to experiment. What you want to convey in your photos is the best version of your authentic self, so wear what will represent the image you want the
viewer to perceive. Unless you are someone who needs to be photographed in a costume, uniform, or outlandish
outfit, wear clothes that will not distract from your face, which should be the focus of your photos. The number one
consideration is to wear clothes that fit you well. Not too tight, not too loose. There is a tendency for folks who are
overweight to wear baggy clothing, thinking it camouflages the excess weight, but the opposite is true: it will make a
heavy person look heavier. And too-tight clothes are rarely appropriate.
What’s the deal with solids? I wear a lot of patterns.
I am also a lover of patterns and prints. I pretty much wear a print every single day of my life, in some form. But the
camera has a difficult time dealing with prints and patterns, and with some prints the camera creates what is called
a moire pattern, which is a wavelike pattern that is nearly impossible to retouch out. Also, prints and patterns can be
distracting and can dominate in a photo, and detract from your face, which is the main attraction, not your clothes.
This is why it’s best to wear solid colors in a photo, especially on the upper half of your body. If you are not sure
which colors flatter you best, then wear the colors in your eyes or your hair. These will always look great on you. As
an option, wear the complements (or opposites) of those colors. For example, someone with brown eyes will look
amazing in deep violet or purple.
Complementary color matching can be somewhat tricky, so if you aren’t sure, have your colors analyzed or stick to
your hair and eye colors. Avoid skin tones on the upper half of your body because they can make you look washedout if you are fair-skinned, or with darker skin, they will prevent your face from being the main focus. (For great
color choices, see the photo on the next page of Julie Bauke of The Bauke Group.)
Do you have any tips on jewelry?
I love jewelry and love to wear a lot
of it, but for a photo, simple is best.
I usually scoff at the Coco Chanel
quote about taking one thing off
before you leave the house, but it’s a
good mentality for when you’re taking a photo. So unless you are a belly
dancer who’s being photographed
in her costume, keep your jewelry
simple so as not to create a visual
distraction.
Should I go casual or dress up?
This is going to depend on what you
are trying to communicate in your
photo. Are you a ballroom dance
instructor? Better dress up! Do
you make your living working on
the land, as a farmer or rancher?
Dress the part with pride! Are you a
teacher? A suit and tie might seem
intimidating and inappropriate, so
wear the best version of what you
normally wear in your profession. If
you aren’t sure, dress a little better
than you think you should. And bring
several outfits to your photo shoot so
the photographer has a few options.
Does it matter if the shot is indoors
or outdoors?
The same rules and guidelines apply
whether it’s an indoor shoot or an
outdoor shoot.
My favorite color is black, is that
ok?
Contrary to conventional wisdom,
not everyone looks their best in
black. In fact, it can be dreadful on
many. Those with lighter skin, hair
and eyes will have those features
overpowered by black. So unless
it’s part of your uniform, costume,
or specific “look” you are trying to
achieve, avoid wearing an all black
outfit
Do my shoes matter if it is a headshot?
Your whole outfit matters, even if it’s
a headshot. If you’re wearing a tux
and sneakers, or a ball gown and flip
flops, there is going to be a disconnect in your mind, whether you are
aware of it or not. When you are having your photo taken, you are playing
a part, even if that part is yourself,
and a vital aspect of playing a part
is wardrobe. This is why actors have
dress rehearsals in full costume: to
become that person, head-to-toe,
inside and out.
Any other clothing guidelines for
my photo?
Red can look great in photos, but it
has got to be the right red for your
skin tones. Again, if you aren’t sure
which red is your best, avoid it.
Avoid very bright colors because they
will invariably detract from the main
focus: your face. They can also make
you look washed out unless you have
very strong coloring in your hair,
skin and eyes.
If you wear glasses all the time, do
wear them in your photograph. And
make sure the frames are in a color
that flatters your coloring, and in a
shape that flatters your face shape.
And I hope it goes without saying
that your clothes should be clean,
pressed, and in good condition.
Catherine Montalbo is a Certified
Image Consultant who helps her
clients reach their personal and
professional goals through appropriate wardrobe and appearance. She
believes that image doesn’t cost, it
pays. Her services include custom
color analysis, body style analysis,
closet evaluation and wardrobe
strategies, and personal shopping.
Catherine is also a J. Hilburn authorized Personal Stylist. J. Hilburn is
a custom menswear line made from
the world’s finest fabrics. As a professional model and a great
subject in photos, how do you look so
comfortable in your photos?
Embrace your inner beauty and yourself. If you love yourself, that will come
through. This is who I am and how I am
made. Embrace that. Don’t compare
yourself to anyone else. When I smile, I
smile because I am happy with
who I am.
What about varying your expressions?
Be open to every emotion in life. Practice looking sad, looking happy, looking
powerful. Practice in a mirror before the
shoot. Think of things that have made
you feel the emotion and tap into that for
the photo.
What can we do with our hands?
A universal gesture is putting them in
your pockets. Fold your arms. Fold them
behind you. Once again tap into your
emotions, tell a little story in your head.
Pick up a book, glass of wine or a cat or
something. Whatever it takes to relax
you. Bring up your hands and then down.
Tell someone a story about a good memory, have them watch your hands and
tell you what you did.
How about body positioning to the
camera?
Face the camera with your chest to start.
Keep it straight forward and simple.
Again, practice in the mirror before the
shoot.
Pose Like a Pro
When I was assigned to photograph Charleston Pierce, I may have been given the
easiest assignment ever. Charleston is a fixture in the San Francisco Bay Area
modeling and entertainment communities. With a career spanning twenty-five
years in an industry where some last only weeks, Charleston Pierce is now sharing
his experience through his talent workshops and producing charity fashion events
throughout the Bay Area. With Charleston’s recently published book, “Star Walk:
Embrace Your Inner Power and Find Success on the Runway of Life”, he now shares
his knowledge with a broader audience.
In the third of our Tips for Great Portraits or Headshots, we asked Charleston for
some tips on feeling comfortable in front of the camera. (The photo here is one I
created with Charleston.)
I know you are usually the star, but
what about when you are with another
person in a photo or are in a group?
When I am in a shot with a group of people, I try to create an action that looks
natural. Again, come up with a story.
Connect with the people that surround
you. Embrace them and the moment.
Any other tips?
Music on the set. Laughter. Tell jokes.
Dance. Do anything to get people to open
up. Take deep breaths. Try to
get relaxed.
Turtle Up!
Use Your
Expression and
And Hands To
Tell A Story
Your expression can mean everything
in a portrait. After all, there are only
a few things you can change about
your face: your eyes, your mouth and
the position of your head. This is the
fourth of our Tips for Great Portraits
and Headshots.
Position Your Head
A strong jaw line is very attractive.
One way to get this is to Turtle-Up.
(See photo of Tricia Roush to the
right.) This technique eliminates
double chins and accentuates your
jaw line. Imagine strings attached at
your chin and your forehead pulling
your face toward the camera lens.
Move your face toward the camera
with chin and forehead moving just
slightly forward. This tightens things
up under your chin and makes your
face slightly larger in proportion to
your body. Ever notice how stars and
news anchors have big heads? People find that attractive. Don’t overdo
it. You will just look silly. Practice in
front of a mirror before your shoot.
Pretend You are Brad Pitt
Brad Pitt always looks great when
he gets his photo taken. Headshot
photographer Peter Hurley points
out that this was not always so if you
look at his early shots. Pitt’s expression is somewhere between serious
and a smile. To get this look, first
relax your face. Your mouth is almost
expressionless. Look at the camera
and just slightly squint your eyes.
Imagine you are happy. But don’t
smile. Just let enough smile seep in
that you look happy. You are smiling with your eyes, not your mouth.
(Look at the top row on the front of
this PDF for three great examples of
the Brad Pitt.)
Vary Your Expression and Head
Position with Each Shot
There is no reason to lock yourself
in during a photo session. Change
it up after each click of the camera
or flash. Tilt your head. Look off
camera. Smile big. Look badass. Do
something silly. Then laugh about it.
Give the photographer a chance to
catch you in that in-between expression that looks so natural and
unguarded in the best portraits. Use
the Charleston Pierce technique of
imagining a good memory or situation and channel that into your
expression.
Use Your Hands
Even for a headshot, consider using
your hands. Bring them up into the
shot. Stroke your chin. Mess with
your hair. Cross your arms, even if
they aren’t in the shot. It will change
your expression and move your
head. Rest your chin on your hand
if you are sitting, but be careful not
to smush your face. (See photo of
Zannah Noe at at the left for good
example of using your hands.)
Try using a prop. Especially if you are
being photographed where you work
or play, try to hold something related
to your work.
Lighting Tips For a Good Portrait
In the final chapter in the series 5 Tips to Look Great in a Portrait or Headshot, this may be the most important.
Good light in a photo flatters. Bad light exposes what we dislike most about how we look. We have all seen the photo
with the washed out, too bright flash. We squint to see the details in the silhouette with the bright sun behind and no
discernable face. Here are a few keys to making the light work to your benefit.
Get out of the sun.
If you are standing in the sun and there is no flash on the camera to fill the shadows, several bad things happen.
Those looking into the sun are invariably squinting or wearing sunglasses (the glasses being preferable if you ask
me). Those with the sun behind them end up with an underexposed (dark) face. Unless the photographer compensates and meters the camera for the light falling on the face this is not going to work. In the photo of Restaurateur
Jesse Cool above, we put the sun on a partly cloudy day at her back and had no rough shadows on her face. This
photo was take without a flash.
A better idea is to get in the shade. The light in the shadow of a building can be really beautiful. Bright light from the
sunny areas you are facing can fill in the shadows and make for a soft look. My Burning Man photos best illustrate
this. Taken in the middle of a sunny, desert afternoon, I had people stand under a canopy with a white background
behind them and reflected light spilling in from three sides. See the portrait on the next page. If you retreat under
a tree, make sure you have the sun behind the subject so that now dappled light falls on the face making light and
dark spots. Another technique is a fill flash, if you know how to do that on your camera.
Find the biggest window you can.
If you are indoors, find a big window that is not facing the sun. A north window (If you live in the Northern Hemisphere), a morning west window or an afternoon east window all work. Place the subject sideways to the window
with as much window in front of them as possible. Make sure the light of the window is reflected in both eyes. Here
is a photographer’s tip. If you set your camera to a more open f-stop, f2.8 or lower, you can get that beautiful soft
focus on the background. Make sure you focus on the eye nearest the camera. This shot of Kristina Esfandiari was
shot at f2.0 using window light from an east facing set of windows 15 feet high and 20 feet wide.
Bounce the flash.
Unless you are Terry Richardson, most portraits look
better when the flash is not sitting right on top of the
camera on the same axis as the lens. With an on-camera flash, it is best if the flash can be pointed to reflect
off of the ceiling, if it is a white ceiling. This can fill the
room and make the light softer. It works well for group
shots too.
You can try to bounce the flash off a wall or a window,
if you have the type of flash that allows that. This can
mimic the big window. The shot of Apurva Mehta of
SLAC was shot by bouncing my strobe off of a light grey
wall for a huge light source.
Get the flash off the camera.
If your camera has a hot shoe, you can buy cheap triggers that allow you to take the flash off of the camera.
Buy a light modifier like an umbrella or soft box and you
can get some beautiful shots. Hundreds of techniques
like this can be done on a budget. The best site I know
for this information is the strobist.
Of course many professional photographer break all
these rules. But they know how to compensate. If you are
having your picture taken by your sister-in-law and you
find yourself looking directly into the sun or flash of the
camera, take control and have the her try some of the
steps above.
Scott R. Kline is a photographer living in San Francisco, CA. Scott works with companies, individuals and publications to create photos of people that tell a story. His photographs always provide a wam, colorful connection between the subject of the photo and the viewer of the photo. He has worked with companies such as the Kimpton
Group, Silicon Valley Finance Group and Grid Dynamics. His photos have been published in the San Francisco Chronicle, Travel+Leisure, CFO Magazine and many others. He is available for consulting and workshops for marketing
and PR professionals to coach their clients. Sign up for next his Headshot Day or email [email protected].