Newsletter of the North Texas Water Garden Society August, 2005 In this Issue Aquatic Plants and How to Care for Them· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 1 President’s Pad Aug‘05· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 2 August Program · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 3 Backyard Wildlife Festival · · · · · · · · · · 3 TDG Pond Cleanup Project · · · · · · · · · · 3 NTWGS Elections · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 3 Let’s Plant the Bog · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 5 Upcoming Programs · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 8 August Meeting Tuesday, August 9, 2005 7:00 PM Michael Masser, Ph.D., Professor and Extension Fisheries Specialist at Texas A&M WaterGardens–Observations of a Fisheries Biologist North Haven Gardens 7700 Northaven Road Dallas, TX Mapsco 26A The NTWGS congratulates Kevin Fuess for being named President of the Texas Association of Pond Societies (TAPS). More information about TAPS can be found at www.texaps.org. Aquatic Plants and How to Care for Them By Joanne Becker Mack Cook, owner of Cook Water Farms in Askov, Minnesota, shared a wealth of information on water garden plants. Mack outlined some ground rules for us to follow in purchasing and growing water garden plants. He also explained how temperature ranges affect planting considerations; and he gave a detailed demonstration of various plants and planting techniques that could be used to enhance the water garden. Mack’s ground rules are: Purchase “finished”plants. Since we have a short growing season, it is desirable to purchase large, attractive, full grown plants whenever possible. Purchase plants that have not crossed a lot of temperature zones. If plants are shipped to you, they are coming from a zone with different temperatures and light periods than ours. These plants will take longer to acclimate to your water garden. Buy “field tested”plants. These are plants that have been proven to grow well in our area, taking into consideration our growing season, our summer temperatures, and the amount of daylight in our zone. Mack emphasized that if you need to “break” any of the above rules, you need to do something to compensate for the conditions that were violated. Several ways to do this are: Start your plants early if they are starter plants or not yet full sized plants. This gives your plants more time to mature so you will still be able to enjoy them during the current water gardening season. Acclimate your plants and give them adequate protection if you purchase plants from a warmer temperature zone. They will need your help in adapting to their new home. Quarantine new plants for a few weeks. A temporary home can often be set up in a large plastic container or tub garden. This enables you to observe the plant to see if there are any undesirable freeloaders that have come along with the plants such as snails, weeds, or diseases. Do your research on the size and growth habit of the plants you purchase. This will assist you in determining where to place them in your pond to best enhance the esthetics and symmetry of your water garden. For example, a new zebra rush might look small enough to place as a bog plant in the front of your water garden. However, a little research will show that zebra rush reaches 4-5 feet in height and hence should be placed where it will not block the view of your pond. Mack broke down our planting time into three seasons,each determined by a range of water temperatures. The three planting seasons are: 50-60 degrees: This period starts approximately in the first week of May. At this time, oxygenator plants such as anachris, hornwort, etc. along with native plants such as horsetail, sweet flag, and marsh marigold can be safely placed into the water garden. 60-70 degrees: Our water gardens usually reach this temperature range around the middle of May. At this time, hardy water lilies can be placed into shallow areas of the water garden. The shallow areas will provide warmer water to stimulate their growth. Many marginal plants such as pickerel rush and iris can also be placed into the shallow areas at this time. 70-80 degrees: By the end of May or the beginning of June, water temperatures have usually stabilized enough to place your tropical water lilies and tropical marginal plants into the water garden. Placing these tropicals in cooler water would put them at risk. Next, Mack discussed four groups of water garden plants,giving examples of each See Aquatic, continued on Page 4 Water Works President’s Pad Aug‘05 Water Works is published monthly by the North Texas Water Garden Society. NTWGS Officers & Directors President Linda Love, (214) 358-0204 Vice President Joe Copeland, (972) 625-8037 Treasurer Yvonne Gausman, (972) 381-1947 Secretary Penny Fuess, (817) 491-4332 Member at Large Program Director Position Open Pond Tour Steve Love Membership Kevin Fuess, (817) 491-4332 Projects Position Open TAPS Delegate Tarrall Arnold, (972) 422-5348 The North Texas Water Garden Society is a non-profit organization with the following objectives: To encourage a greater appreciation of and interest in water gardens; to disseminate information of interest and help to the members; and to stimulate the study and culture of aquatic plants, fish and ponds. Editor, Susan Moore Ph: (972) 783-0261, Fax: (972) 783-0261 email: [email protected] North Texas Water Garden Society http://www.ntwgs.org Contributions to Water Works are always welcome and may be submitted to the editor by mail, fax or email. Letters to the Editor will be printed as space permits. NTWGS accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of the contents of this newsletter. Reproduction is permitted provided that this newsletter and the original source are credited. I guess you could say that Summer is now here in full force. The hot days have come. Now is the time to sit back and enjoy some of the fruits of your labors this Spring. I know that the sun does take a lot out of the flowers, but the fish are still cool, and the waterfalls are cool sounding and refreshing. I hope you continue to enjoy your gardens through these next few months as much as we do.It is always cooler near the pond with the sound of running water. This last weekend we had the opportunity to go to Amarillo to the 4th Annual TAPS Conference. We had a great time, the people from the hosting clubs (Ogallala Water Gardeners, Amarillo Koi Society, and Las Pampas Koi and Water Garden Society) were just wonderful. The Botanical Gardens was a great place to meet, also. The speakers were very informative,and,I guess we thought the best was when we learned how to make our own rocks. Maybe sometime in the future, we can have a workshop on that for our group. You all should start planning for next year’s Conference. We’re hoping it will be in Fort Worth with the new Fort Worth Water Garden Society hosting, and with the help of the rest of the clubs in the area, of course. Oh yes, I almost forgot. Our own Kevin Fuess was elected President of the TAPS organization for the next year. Congratulations, Kevin. I know he will appreciate your support. See President's , continued on Page 3 The NTWGS Website www.ntwgs.org Have you checked out our website lately? Our website has been updated and is sporting a new look. You can now see who our speaker will be as well as the topic of the night for our general meetings. We also have a new page with links to our member’s home pages. If you are a member and want a link to your home page, send us a note and we will be happy to hook you up. NTWGS Membership Information Join the North Texas Water Garden Society. Membership fees are: Single Membership (per year) $15.00 Family Membership (per year)$24.00 Make your check payable to the North Texas Water Garden Society and send your name, address, phone number and information to: Remember April 22 is the deadline for the June, 2005 issue of Page 2 NTWGS Post Office Box 9127 Dallas, Texas 75209-9127 August, 2005 Water Works See President's , continued on Page 3 Having just returned from a vacation, away from our fish, I was thinking it would really be nice to have a network of persons (Pond Lovers) who would be willing to help each other take care of the ponds/fish when vacation times rolled around. If anyone has any ideas for a listing like this, or some other way to connect people who need help with those who would be willing to help with gardens/ponds while you’re on vacation, please let me know. Maybe we could start a whole new service for all pond lovers in the area, or at least in our group. We will soon be coming to the end of the year for the officers of NTWGS, and I would like to encourage some of you to get active in our organization. We can always use the new ideas and energy from our newer members. If you are interested in helping out in some area on the Board, please contact any of the current members. None of the offices are difficult, and we have a fun time at the Board meetings, and getting to know each other better. Have a great rest of the Summer. Linda Love, NTWGS President. NTWGS Elections Joe Copeland, V.P. NTWGS The NTWGS Elections are just around the corner! Our annual elections will be held September 13, during our general meeting at North Haven Gardens. We will have several open officer positions in the NTWGS. The experience level required ranges from novice to expert. If you have planning, secretarial, bookkeeping, or scheduling skills, and have an interest in holding an office, please send an e-mail to vicepres @ntwgs.org or leave a voice message at 972-994-1140. The Board meets once a month and each term is one year. The newly elected TAPS Board Backyard Wildlife Festival August Program Which wild animals are visiting the garden at night? Find clues and play a detective game to solve the mystery. Learn what to do if you find an injured or orphaned animal. Get humane, effective solutions to wildlife problems, such as squirrels in attics, raccoons in chimneys and ducks in swimming pools. Exhibitors include: DFW Wildlife Coalition and Critter 911. Bring your whole family—this event is geared for all ages. The Backyard Wildlife Festival will take place from Friday, Auust 12 through Monday, August 15, 2005. Hours are from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM Friday, Saturday and Monday; and from noon to 5:00 PM on Sunday. Live Animal Programs will include: Scales & Fur At 1:30 PM and 2:30 PM Saturday, meet a strange creature that frequently visits backyards throughout the Metroplex, but is rarely seen. Is it the missing link between reptiles and mammals? The truth about this animal is stranger than fiction! Feathers & Talons At 12:30 PM and 1:30 PM. Sunday, meet native Texas hawks, owls and falcons from the Blackland Prairie Raptor Center. Don’t miss this opportunity to see these majestic birds up close! Scales & Fangs At 2:30 PM Sunday, meet beautiful, beneficial native Texas snakes. Can you tell which are venomous? The Festival will take place at the Texas Discovery Gardens at Fair Park, 3601 Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard, Dallas, TX 75210. Ths cost is $3.00 for adults, $2.00 for seniors (60+) and $1.50 for children from 3 to 11. This event is free for children under 3, and parking is free. Be sure to join us for our August meeting to welcome Michael Masser, Ph.D., Professor and Extension Fisheries Specialist at Texas A&M. He will discuss “Water Gardens—Observations of a Fisheries Biologist.” He will discuss aquatic plants, water quality and conservation techniques. He believes a balance of plants and fish help to maintain good water quality. This is another opportunity to make our ponds more enjoyable features in our yards. Our September speaker will be Dian Smith from the Lewisville Aquatic Ecosystem Research Facility. TDG Pond Cleanup Project Joe Copeland, V.P. NTWGS Back in March,members of the NTWGS cleaned the Leftwich Reflecting Pool at Texas Discovery Gardens in Fair Park. We also divided, repotted, and fertilized the plants. Now, it is almost time for “part two” of this project. We will clean the pond and fertilize the plants so the pond will look great when the Texas State Fair opens. Our project will be held Saturday, September 17, 9 AM until noon. Members who participate will receive a NTWGS T-shirt or hat. If you have any questions about this project, please email me at [email protected] or leave a phone message at 972.994.1140. Major Technological Breakthrough Introducing the new Bio-Optic Organized Knowledge device, trade named: BOOK BOOK is a revolutionary breakthrough in technology: no wires, no electric circuits, no batteries, nothing to be connected or switched on. It’s so easy to use, even a child can operate it. Compact and portable, it can be used anywhere—even sitting in an armchair by the fire—yet it is powerful enough to hold as much information as a CD-ROM disc. Here’s how it works: BOOK is constructed of sequentially numbered sheets of paper (recyclable), each capable of holding thousands of bits of information. The pages are locked together with a custom-fit device called a binder which keeps the sheets in their correct sequence. Opaque Paper Technology (OPT) allows Breakthrough, continued on Page 7 August, 2005 Page 3 Water Works Aquatics, continued from Page 1 group and demonstrating how to transplant certain varieties. When transplanting water garden plants, Mack recommends staying away from commercial soil mixes. Garden dirt (well decomposed) or clay soil, mixed 4 to 1 with sand is an excellent planting medium. Clay soil has the benefit of holding nutrients very well for water garden plants and will not dissipate into the water as readily. Group 1 - Submerged Plants: Examples of this group of plants are anachris, hornwort and vallisneria (ribbon grass). These plants do not need to be planted in soil. These plants take all of their nutrients from the water, helping to starve out algae. They are often bunched together with lead weights and placed in the bottom of the pond. One bunch per two to three square feet of pond surface is recommended. Group 2 - Emergent Plants: This group of plants consists of plants that come through the surface of the water. They help lead the eye up and out of the water to the rest of the landscape. Examples of this group are iris, pickerel rush, sweet flag, fiber optic or spike rush, variegated rush, taro, thalia, dwarf papyrus, horsetail, and arrowhead among others. If your pond does not have any shelves to set these emergent plants on, you can use cinder blocks or plastic crates from a local dairy or similar items to raise the plants off the bottom of the pond. Sweet flag grows from a rhizome and roots at every other node. To transplant and divide sweet flag, remove it from its pot and rinse the soil from the rhizomes. Then cut at a 45-degree angle at nodes to make the number of divisions desired. The cut end of the rhizome can be powdered with dusted charcoal to prevent fungus. Mack uses a fungicide called Subdue in his greenhouses.He also uses Botanigard for aphid control. When potting water garden plants, a piece of landscape fabric or burlap placed in the bottom of the pot will prevent soil from escaping into the water. To pot a plant of the rhizome variety, place some dirt into a pot at an angle. Place the rhizome with the cut edge against the side of the pot with the roots spread out towards the other side. Finish filling the pot with dirt, leaving room for ½ inch to 1 inch of small gravel on top of the soil. The fiber optic rush or spike rush grows Page 4 less than a foot tall and is a good edge plant. To reduce transplant shock while transplanting this rush do not remove the soil from its roots. A serrated knife such as a dry wall saw works excellent for cutting apart the root ball. This is a hardy plant and may be pruned periodically to maintain its attractiveness during the season. Just give it a haircut by trimming off the top ¼ of the plant. The variegated rush has a yellow stripe running vertically on the right side of the leaf and the zebra rush has horizontal stripes. The zebra rush grows 5 to 6 feet tall and does best in ½ day sun. If the leaves loose their variegation cut off the old leaves to generate more new growth, which in turn will have more color variegation. Corkscrew rush can be a very interesting addition to the water garden. It is a small plant and only grows to 1 to 1 ½ inches. Thalia is a 5 to 6 foot tall emergent plant. The leaves of the plant grow to 4 feet with the flower stalk growing 2 feet higher. This plant is not hardy and needs a 65 degree greenhouse for overwintering.It is an excellent tall plant because of its wind resistance. Taro is another popular plant. It is temperature sensitive and can not be placed out until the temperature of the water reach 70-80 degrees. The Green Taro is the least temperature sensitive, the Imperial Taro is moderately sensitive, and the Black Taro is the most sensitive. These are excellent shade tolerant plants, requiring only approximately 5 hours of sunlight daily. The size of the plant can be controlled somewhat by the size of the pot. The umbrella plant is another very desirable emergent. It can be identified as a sedge by its triangular stems. You should wait for the water temperatures to reach 60-70 degrees before placing this plant into the pond. The umbrella plant grows to 4 feet tall and can be treated as a houseplant during the winter. Just keep its soil moist at all times. If leaves begin to brown, they can be given a haircut. When dividing this plant, do not remove the soil and do leave 5-6 stems per clump. Dwarf papyrus grows to 2 ½ feet tall. New plants can be produced by division, seed or by the plant itself. This plant is viviparous and forms a new plant in the top crown of the stems. When you see a new plant forming, cut it off from the top of the main plant leaving 2 to 3 inches of stem. Set this cutting in water until it is rooted. Horsetail is an emergent that can become invasive if not potted. A dwarf horsetail is not as invasive, but can go dormant later in the season. Arrowhead is often called duck potato because it will produce hardy tubers. Aztec is an interesting arrowhead with larger white flowers than the native variety. However, it is not hardy in our area. Native arum and bog arum, which are not hardy, are also good additions to the water garden. Star grass, a member of the sedge family, is another interesting emergent that produced white star type flower brackets at the top of 12 to 18 inch plants. Last but not least, is a group of emergent plants that can be used as low growing edge cover around the water. They are also good ground cover, filling in between the water’s edge and the surrounding landscape. Plants in this group are primrose creeper, which has yellow flowers (zone 5), parrots feather, and creeping jenny. Group 3 - Floating Plants: Plants in this category are not potted and simply float across the surface of the water. They assist in controlling algae by taking nutrients directly from the water and as surface cover for the pond. Examples of plants in this category is the water velvet, also called caterpillars. All are tropicals. Their roots are prone to damage by fish, especially Koi. One sign of root damage will be a yellowing of the plant. Yellowing will also occur, if there are not enough nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus in the water. Water velvet or caterpillars are small but multiply rapidly to provide a comprehensive surface cover. Interestingly, what appear to be small roots is actually a third type of leaf on the plant. Group 4 - Surface pad plants: This group consists of water lilies, lotus, water poppy, snowflake and floating heart. The snowflake and floating heart are small plants that are excellent plants for tub gardens. They have a lily pad type leaf with small yellow or white,star flowers during the summer. There are two distinct groups of water lilies—hardy and tropical. Both have many variations in leaf and flower color. Tropical water lilies can be divided into day and night blooming lilies. They bloom more often than hardy varieties and can be overwintered as tubers. More details on water lilies and lotus will be provided at future meetings. To increase the enjoyment of your plants and pond, you need to consider how you will control the natural bloom of algae that Aquatics, continued on Page 5 August, 2005 Water Works Aquatics, continued from Page 5 Let’s Plant the Bog always comes as water temperatures rise. One of the ways to do this is to introduce natural control measures into the pond. Barley straw can be placed in your pond in early April to assist in controlling algae during the summer months. The barley straw needs time to begin decomposing before water temperatures get too warm. The decomposing barley straw releases compounds that result in hydrogen peroxide as a byproduct, thereby helping to control algae.One pound of barley straw per 100 square feet of surface area of water should be placed in an area of the pond where the peroxide can be distributed by moving water. One bag will last for several months. Be sure to have another bag decomposing in the pond for several weeks before removing the old bag of straw. Don’t worry, you can’t overdose very easily with barley straw. Salt blocks from the feed stores can also be used to help in controlling algae. Two pounds of salt per 100 square feet of water surface should be all that is required without adversely affecting most plants. The last item in natural algae control is water surface area coverage. You should plan to have approximately 1/3 of your water surface covered by plants during the growing season. This coverage inhibits the amount of light that reaches the algae, hence inhibiting its ability to reproduce. Minnesota Water Garden Society Newsletter, Waterlog “Pond Side Breakfast Breakfast in the Bundt Pan 2 cans biscuits—cut in quarters 1 lb sausage (cooked) 1/2 cup butter (melted) 1 stick 1/2 cup parmesan with 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper 1 bunch green onions with tops—chopped 1 tsp onion powder Place all but butter into greased bundt pan. Pour melted butter over ingredients in the pan. Bake at 400 degrees for 20 minutes. Grab the coffee, fish food and head on out to the pond. Clear Water Times, newsletter of Koi and Water Garden Society of North Texas, July, 2005 August, 2005 By Joanne Becker Bog plants or edge of the water plants can help create a transition from the water garden to the surrounding landscape. On the average, most bog plants need to be in very moist soil. Most prefer to be in from 0 6" of water. They can add additional color, texture and height to the pond landscape and can also be used as bold accents. Canna and Taro have large striking leaves that add great interest to the planting area. The beautiful flower stalks that the Canna produce in abundance provides aesthetic appeal and focal point. If we use plants in groups or masses in bog areas along the edges of our ponds, plants such as iris create a fantastic display when they are in bloom. Many plants also provide nutrient consumption and water quality filtration, consuming the nutrients that would otherwise be used for algae growth. I would briefly like to discuss three categories of plants for use in and around the bog garden: bog and edging plants, plants for filtration, and moisture loving perennials for finishing the edge of the bog garden. Let’s briefly discuss bog or edging plants. I like to put these in three categories: M hardy bog plants, M marginally hardy, M tropical. Hardy bog plants are those plants that over winter easily in our Minnesota winters. Moneywort or Creeping Jenny, Watercress, Watermint, Bog Bean and Marsh Marigold are excellent edging or transition plants. These plants thrive in shallow water and will creep not only over the surface of the water but also up onto the rocks along the edge of the pond to soften the pond edge. Next, there are the taller bog plants that can go in a little deeper water and provide additional color, height and texture to the landscape. These include Arrowhead, Rosy Bistorrt, Narrowleaf and Dwarf Cattail, Yellow and Blue Flag Iris, Pickerel Rush, Horsetails and Variegated Sweet Flag. Be careful when planting Horsetail. The dwarf variety is fairly confined, but the tall variety can be very invasive just as some varieties of cattail are. Marginally hardy bog plants are those plants that perhaps need some assistance in overwintering and still might not come through reliably.They may be stated as Zone 4 and often even Zone 5/6 plants. This category can change depending on where your pond is and how protected a site you have. I include plants such as Lizards Tail, Corkscrew Rush, Water Celery, Fiber Optic Rush and Golden Sedge (Carex) in this category. Some plants such as Water Celery have a standard green variety that seems to be hardier, while the variegated form is less hardy. Tropical bog plants are the plants that we need to treat as either annuals, simply tossing them out at the end of the season, or bringing them in as houseplants for the winter months. These would include popular plants like Parrots Feather,Pennywort,Primrose Creeper, Canna, Dwarf Papyrus, Umbrella Palm and Thalia. The next group of plants can be used very effectively for filtration purposes. They have large, fast growing root systems, are vigorous growers and many are floaters that take their nutrients directly from the water, which makes them the best for filtration. In order for this group of plants to do their best job, their roots need ready access to the water. Don’t put these plants in hard-sided pots! If you have a situation where you need to have them in some kind of a pot, use one of the newer plastic pots with mesh sides. There is also a new type of pot made out of a very firmly woven landscape type fabric. These pots,since they are fabric,help to hold the soil and roots in place but are very moldable to tuck into rocks and are much easier to camouflage. These plants can do their very best filtration if you have a gravel base in your creek or bog and can plant them directly into the rock, with no dirt attached to the roots. The best plants for filtration are Water Celery, Watercress and Watermint, followed by Pickerel Rush, Dwarf Papyrus, Umbrella Palm, Cattails and Canna. Last summer I had a fantastic crop of jumbo. Needless to say, I had crystal clear water in my pond. The last category of plants is moisture loving perennials for the edge of the pond and bog garden. These plants are hardy perennials that prefer moist, but not waterlogged soil. This distinguishes them from bog plants that want their feet in water. They are excellent choices to use as transition plants from the bog garden to other perennial flower beds or landscaping. Some plants like Astilbe are usually considered shade plants, but with adequate moisture, they can tolerate half-day sun. In fact, some of my best flowering Astilbe are growing in these conditions. Other plants like daylilies come in a wide variety of colors and sizes. They are also very adaptable in their light requirements and soil moisture needs. Plants like Siberian and Louisiana Iris usually prefer lots of moisture in the See Bog Plants, continued on Page 7 Page 5 Water Works Water Gardens Galore Pond Supplies Installation - Maintenance 2530 Butler Street Dallas, Texas 75235-7402 (214) 956-7382 www.wggalore.com No Nonsense...PONDSENSE! Building Exceptional Water Gardens Since 1996 817.461.4000 - fax: 817.274.5459 P.O. Box 171626 Arlington, TX 76003 www.primelandscapeservices.com Page 6 August, 2005 Water Works Bog Plants, continued from Page 5 spring and early summer when they are preparing to bloom. Then, later in the season when they become a little more dormant, prefer a dryer soil. Siberian Iris is very hardy in our zone and is available in many colors at local nurseries. Some of my favorite moisture loving perennials are as follows: Ajuga, Aruncus or Goats Beard, Astilbe, Brunnera, Cimicifuga, Hemerocallis or Daylilies, Eupatorium or Joe-Pye-Weed, Euphorbia or Spurge, Ferns (Maidenhair, Ostrich, etc.), Grasses (Ribbon Grass, Miscanthus, etc.), Heuchera (Coral Bells)-moist but well drained soil, Hosta, Iris-Flag, Louisiana, Siberian, Ligulara, Lobelia-Cardinal Flower, Great Blue, Dortmanns, Lysimachia or Moneywort, Monarda, Obedient Plant (very invasive!), Primula (moist but well drained), Spiderwort, Trollius and Turtlehead. Minnesota Water Garden Society Newsletter, Waterlog Breakthrough, continued from Page 3 manufacturers to use both sides of the sheet, doubling the information density and cutting costs. Experts are divided on the prospects for further increases in information density; for now, BOOKS with more information simply use more pages. Each sheet is scanned optically, registering information directly into your brain. 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WORTH TEXAS 76119 WWW.WHIZ-Q.COM August, 2005 Page 7 Upcoming Programs August 9 Michael Masser, Ph.D. TAMU Professor & Extension Fisheries Specialist Water Gardens - Observations of a Fisheries Biologist September 13 Dian Smith—Lewisville Aquatic Ecosystem Research Facility August, 2005 Calendar of Events 8/5 8/9 8/15 8/19 8/27 New Moon NTWGS Meeting DISD Back to School Full Moon Deadline Answers To Your Questions NTWGS Voice Mail Number 972-994-1140 Pond Tour Hotline 214-358-0204 New pond owners always have many questions. Write your questions down before the meetings and we’ll try to find answers before we adjourn. We may even have multiple answers. Our goal is education—Just ask. Please check the date on your address label. It is your expiration date. Please mail your dues renewal today! We want you to continue as a member of NTWGS. Check Your Expiration Date! REMINDER! Meeting August 9 -North Texas Water Garden Society Post Office Box 9127 Dallas, Texas 75209-9127 Place Stamp Here
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