1. style and fashion
2. footwear
3. shoes

TS
HOW TO BOTTOM
A WELTED SHOE
BY HAND
By FRANK
I,
WEST
1HH iM
I
IH I' IiI
Hul
ii
il
i
ttMtiM
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HOW TO BOTTOM A
WELTED SHOE
BY HAND
By
FRANK
WEST
L.
Head of Shoemaking Division
TUSKEGEE
NORMAL AND
TRIAL INSTITUTE
INDUS-
TS ozo
i
Institute
Tuskegee
Press
Institute,
Alabama
1912
V*
£CI.A305730
PREFACE
In
these lessons
illustrations
and
I
as
have tried to explain by
few words
as possible the
different steps
which
gether
welted shoe by hand.
rent
a plain
shoemakers
are taken in putting to-
may have
Differ-
different
ideas
about the same operations, but the ultimate
results,
bility,
teen
namely, neatness, comfort and duraare
what
all
are after.
After seven-
work and teaching
have found that the methods
years of practical
combined,
I
which follow give the desired
Yours very
truly,
results.
Copyright, 1912
By Frank
L.
West
HOW
TO BOTTOM A WELTED
SHOE BY HAND
SOME FACTS ABOUT COMFORTABLE
EASY WEARING SHOES
Easy wearing shoes are generally the
of
much thought on
the part of the work-
man, beginning with the selection
The
last
should be one that
shape of the foot
is
do not always insure comfort.
to
last
of the last.
nearly the
as
Square toe
as possible.
the ball and heel of a
has
width or shape of the toe.
It is
made on
foot sets square
easy wearing shoe;
to slip
and
comfort
is
rest
a last that
is
whenever the
quite
to toe.
on the insole
on one side
as the
therefore best
wide enough for the foot from heel
The
lasts
The width of
equally as much
do with the shoe being comfortable
that the shoe be
result
of an
foot begins
of the insole the
lessened.
The counter
over the heel
of a shoe should never bulge
seat.
The shank
of the shoe
should be wide enough, especially on the
HOW TO BOTTOM
The
outside.
A
WELTED SHOE
on the outside should
sole
The
ways be wide enough.
should not be wider than
it
al-
sole at the toe
is
on the inside
The soles should not make a squeaking
The shoe should
noise when being worn.
bend easily when walking, especially across
the ball.
The tread of the shoe should be as
ball.
Work
smooth
as
that
not neat often takes away the feeling
is
rocking
in a
of comfortableness.
placed and
their ever
left
rocking chair.
Tacks should never be
when
there
working through
is
any
liability of
to the foot.
more things must be
before and while making a shoe.
All of these and even
thought of
The
fact that a
able
shoe should be neat, comfort-
and serviceable,
mind by
the
The finish on
moment the start
the
borne
in
is
thoughtless operation
should be constantly
workman.
job is begun
One
may make it
made.
the very
careless or
impossible
to finish the job with the desired results.
PREPARATION OF THE
COUNTERS
(See drawings on plate
In these pages
make
a
I
I)
wish to explain
normal welted shoe with
bottom.
a
how to
medium
very necessary that one should
It is
get everything in proper shape before begin-
ning to make
a shoe; that
and
innersoles,
is,
everything
that
it
must be
that
all
as
it
and heel
away
so
shape before you
All knives and other tools
it.
in first-class shape.
be clear of
sole
case and put
will not get out of
are ready for
order
in
The
should be before starting.
leather should be in
counters, boxes,
The bench must
work
other material or
on which you are
should be started,
least get the heels
if
to
work.
The
save
job
time to
possible, in
at
on and the edges rasped up
before leaving for the day.
The
ters.
first
The
thing to get in order
is
counters should be
wide
as
the counas the
vamp and about one-fourth inch longer than
the heel.
Diagram I shows the exact shape
of
^
HOW TO BOTTOM
the counter.
edges;
these
A
WELTED SHOE
Notice the heavy
show
lines at the
that the counter at
this
point should be thinner and should retain
normal thickness
shows the section
III
in
of
its
Diagram II
Diagram
the counter.
the center.
shows the position
upper before beginning
of the
counter
to last.
shows section
of the rear of the
the counter in
its
in the
Diagram IV
natural position.
upper with
PREPARATION OF THE BOX
(See drawings on plate II)
Most shoes
but
much
is
it
made with boxes
are
shoemaker who
better for a
make
just learning, to
in the toe,
shoe without
a
a
box,
order that he might not become discour-
in
Boxes, like counters, should be very
aged.
trimmed and
carefully
be the shape of the
ends
left
at
tip
long
shown
as
made
yet material that
in
They should
skived.
with the exception of the
either side of the tip
should be
where they
diagram
is
easily
The box
II.
of material that
are
is
flexible,
hardened by
paste.
Porous leather, or wide grain leather can
used
to great
advantage
in
making
makes
insures and
dry.
The
of the tip
The
is
a
stiff
ho-
the box,
because the paste can easily penetrate
is
is
it;
this
box when the shoe
top of the box under the center
generally
left its
front and sides of the
thin but not to a feather.
ginning of the
tip line
natural thickness.
box are skived very
The box
the be-
should be skived to
feather having a gradual diminish.
10
at
a
Diagram
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Preparation of the
Box
^^r
III
HOW TO BOTTOM
A WELTED SHOE
shows the top
upper
of an
lasted with the
long end of the box sticking out
at
the sides
or tip line.
There
are three ways in
Preparation of the
12
which
Box
a
box can
HOW TO BOTTOM
A WELTED SHOE
be lasted or crimped over the toe.
that
is
The one
better for the beginner calls for
mould-
ing or crimping of the box over the toe of
the
This
last,
last
before the upper has been put on.
is
done by placing the box on the
fastening
in shape.
better to
the tip line and crimping
at
This stands until
do
is
become
taken from the
wanted.
is
lasted
slip
When
first
last
after
stiff;
which
and put aside
until
the lining of the shoe (which
in
this
to
been
case) has
the box over the toe, fasten
edges enough
It is
long enough before hand to
this
allow the leather to
it
hard.
is
it
it
prevent
while lasting the upper over
13
it
it
it
lasted,
around the
from moving
at
the
tip.
.
PREPARATION OF THE
INNERSOLE
(See drawings)
The
innersole being the foundation of the
shoe, should be carefully fastened and
to
the
We
shape.
will
presume
nails
as
in
.
the long shank with
of the last
I
flat
It
the innersole
lastly
and
hold
it
the shank.
It
in
is
hollow on the inside
causes trouble in the
by not allowing the innerthis
at
point (inside shank)
at
is
better to put the strap on
the shank
first
and fasten
it
at
then fasten the ball and heel, and
the toe.
in
shape of
shows the innersole being molded
to the last.
this point,
its
that often
of shoes;
sole to lay
Diagram
in the
necessary to
are
proper place, especially
making
in
In fastening the innersole use as
last.
many
it
that the leather has
been properly cased and cut
the
molded
before beginning to trim
last
Trim
shape of the
to the inside
shank
the innersole smoothly
last,
paying
just after
(See arrow in Diagram
14
II.)
it
strict attention
leaves the ball.
It
is
here that
HOW TO BOTTOM
A
WELTED SHOE
the shoe often seems too large or the inner-
from under the foot
sole sticks out
is
if
much care
Often the wearer finds himself
not taken.
trying to get his foot on top of the innersole,
when
the
innersole
itself
than the sole of the foot
is
at this
how
nothing to indicate
larger
really
is
There
point.
small the shank
should be, except the width of the
ball,
The
the width of the front part of the heel.
innersole will have to be
trimmed
to a
proportion between these two points.
here that taste
shank,
is
The
used.
however,
front of the heel.
(when there
to
is
It
is
small part of the
In cutting the bar for the
mind two
At the toe the shoulder
wide enough
good
seldom wider than the
is
innersole one must bear in
1
and
will
things:
have to be
hold both, the upper and box
to
be
a
box)
,
and
at
the
same
time give the shoe the same shape the shoulder gives
is
at
the side of the shoe
where there
no box.
2.
In the shank, the stitches are
be seen generally on shoes, and the bar
not to
at this
point will have to be cut, generally 3-16 inch
16
HOW TO BOTTOM
farther
from the edge
A WELTED SHOE
at
the middle of shank
and heel and blend gradually to its natural
distance from the edge at the ball and at the
heel.
If this
trimmed
just as
in
wide
done properly, the
is
the shank,
as
it
and yet hide the
wide welt or
sole or
a
narrow
is
at
will look,
It
narrow welt
it
is
not always
is
that
makes
III
is
so
pushed from
this
point
wide
shows how the
the
at
will call the center of the toe the
Like the spokes
a
a
generally the width
Diagram
holes should be punched
of the shoulder.
last."
or will be
the ball or at the toe,
stitches.
sole,
when
welt,
"hub
of the
wheel, the awl
in a
all
We
toe.
around the
that each hole will be the
toe,
apart on the outside of the bar.
same distance
Holes in the
bar should be not
1-4 inch apart
when punched.
that the awl will
the angle
more than
They should be punched
come out in the corner
formed by the bar and shoulder.
17
so
of
LASTING THE UPPER
Lasting
considered to be, and
is
This operation
is
one
making
the most particular operations in
shoe.
is,
so delicate that
of
a
two
when lasted over the same last by two
different men will have a decided or different
shoes
feeling.
No
two people
pull
with the same touch or tension.
be
a
the
pinchers
There
We come
difference somewhere.
will
to the
Lasting the Upper
conclusion, then, that one person should,
least, last
that
are
Hand
at
shoes that are to be mates, or shoes
to
lasting
be worn
is
by the same person.
considered the best.
Before beginning to
last
18
a
shoe, the upper
HOW TO BOTTOM
A WELTED SHOE
should be carefully inspected to avoid any un-
Very often uppers are compelled to be taken from the last because of
some little trouble which might have been
necessary work.
detected before beginning,
had been careful
if
to inspect the
the
workman
upper before-
hand.
You
straight
and well made paste evenly
uted over
it
should see that the counter
is
in
distrib-
on both sides and the innersole
/.
is
fastened well to the
that there
soap stone, tallow, or something
is
of the kind
rubbed on the
toe so that there will be
last is
the heel.
(if
this
is
last at
Shoes often stick
not done)
Many good
the heel and
no sticking when the
taken from the shoe.
to the last
you should see
last;
at
the toe and
at
shoes are often ruined
19
HOW TO BOTTOM
because of the
WELTED SHOE
A
workman
not taking this pre-
caution.
To
begin
lasting: first place the
upper over
shown in Diagram A, allowing the
heel of upper and last to be about even.
If
the upper is properly cut there will be an althe
last as
lowance
around
at
of
about 1-2 inch
for lasting.
the toe and
First pull the
the toe and fasten with one nail.
pulls are at the tip line
in
at
Diagrams
that the
I
upper
is
It is
upper over
The
next
side as
shown
now time
to see
on either
and I-A.
all
exactly straight before going
20
HOW TO BOTTOM
The
further.
line
in
WELTED SHOE
material that
and the center
smoothly
A
is
of the toe
after the offset
between the
tip
must be crimped
lasting; which is
done by pulling the upper down just where
the shank begins, on both sides, as shown
This will determine
in Diagram II, arrow 1.
just
how
straight the shoe will be
between the shank and the
when
lasted
line.
The
tip
material between these points will be evenly
Next pull down the
shank and heel as shown in Diagrams II
and II-A. The surplus between the tip line
and the toe must now be divided and lasted
distributed afterwards.
so that there will be
out of
its
this case
own
no bulging
You
place.
no box was put
in.
will note that in
When
which must have been crimped
21
of material
the box,
in shape,
is
HOW TO BOTTOM
used, the
lasted
down smoothly.
the paste
is
Make
and leather
lining
ing the leather
box
A WELTED SHOE
is
at
the toe
at
After the offset
the toe
is
is
last-
pulled back and
applied to lining, after which the
slipped over toe and the leather lasted.
sure that paste
at
well distributed be-
box
tween leather and
straight pull
is
also.
There
is
a
the side of the toe, pulling
towards the hub of the toe.
be toward the hub with
ward the preceding
All pulling must
pull or nail.
ing nails try to place
them
22
twisting to-
a slight
When
in their
plac-
permanent
HOW TO BOTTOM
WELTED SHOE
A
position so that they will not have to be re-
placed.
Replacing means the
loss
of time
which might have been saved.
Next,
toe
last
down
or tip line and the
very carefully.
between the
pull the
line,
the material between the
Next
ball line
upper
at
distributing
ball,
last
down
and heel
the material
line;
right angles to
beginning where the
ball
it
be sure
the
to
vamp
and shank
Rw
meet and ending at the end of the heel seat.
Arrows on Diagrams II and III show just the
direction in which the upper should be pulled
at all points.
is
the heel.
The
last
part to be
Be careful
23
crimped
in
to see that the lining
HOW TO BOTTOM
at
the heel
A
WELTED SHOE
not wrinkled.
is
and upper are the same length
determined
whether or not
wrinkles by having the
If
it
the
lining
can be easily
there
be
will
upper and lining the
same length before beginning the crimping.
Be sure
that
all
shoe are placed
shoulder
on
in
the
is
lasted
tips in
angles
of
of the
bar and
Diagram
be sure and mould
innersole.
After the shoe
counters and
around the bar
nails
See
B.
the
shape before the shoe
trimmed.
24
is
PUTTING ON THE WELT
Welting
being
very
a
is
the foundation of the shoe
a part of
in
it
and accurate work.
necessitates strong, level
The
operation;
particular
welt leather, like sole leather, must be
good temper,
because
it
of the last
moist and flexible,
is,
has to be pulled well to
and serves
The
together.
that
to hold the
whole shoe
welt holds the upper to the
We pre-
innersole and outersole to the upper.
sume
that the holes have
innersole properly; that
mentioned
curves
all
in the
been punched
in the
and
flat as
straight
is,
The
previous lesson.
welt
should blend from the heel.
It
bevel the side of welt, that
to lay next to
upper.
(See
Diagram
I,
is
is
arrow points
beveled part that lays next to upper)
beginning to sew,
it
should be skived
The
stitches at the end.
Diagram IV)
upper,
is
made
pushing the
through the upper.
in the
awl
The
25
to
Before
.
off at the
end about one-half inch, or enough
two
best to
to take
first stitch
(see
innersole and
from
the
next stitch
inside
is
made
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26
*^r
7
u
HOW TO BOTTOM
A WELTED SHOE
catching the end of the welt and
The
on the welt.
is
overcasted
greatest pulling
done
is
For instance,
with the right hand.
workman
is
if
the
right-handed, he pulls harder on
making sure, however, to
seam up well and tight. Over-
the outside stitch,
pull the inside
casting on the outside or on the welt helps
the stitches to lay
and prevents pulling
flat
In pushing the awl through, every
through.
precaution must be taken to guard against
To
round or high seam.
prevent such
a
a
seam the awl should be pushed through the
bar so that
it
will
corner of angle
(as
come out directly
shown in Diagram
the bar and shoulder.
sary
that the
It is
upper be
proper place here
(at
in the
III) of
absolutely neces-
lasted
and held
in
the bar) so there will
be no straining while stitching by trying to
pull
it
close to the
upper held
in its
and shoulder.
Diagram
bar.
proper place
When
the
in
II
shows
angle of bar
upper
is
out of
place and tacks placed on top of the bar, the
upper
is
often
torn
and bar by pulling
between the shoulder
it
27
to
its
proper
place.
*»<*.y
Putting on the Welt
28
HOW TO BOTTOM
This
when
will
be avoided
lasting.
stitched,
it
if
After
A WELTED SHOE
the tacks are set right
the welt
has
been
should be trimmed close to the
bar (see Diagram V) and straightened before
allowing
it
to dry,
especially
29
around the
toe.
,
THE BOTTOM
FILLING
After the welt has been straightened and
trimmed
(the
welt
trimmed
is
to
shape and width that the outersole
the next operation
Most
with holes
at
shank
It is
at
steel
shanks are provided
both ends through which
might be driven
place.
to fasten
them
in their
a
after the
shoe has been made.
place
slant
through,
the shank
serted,
tack
proper
the ball of the shoe with a tack, be-
better at this place
cut
a
not best, however, to fasten the
cause the tack often causes trouble
wearer
to be)
and preparing for the
ting in steel shanks
outersole.
is
bottom, put-
filling tbe
is
the
just
just
in
the
wide enough
at this
push
(Diagram
it
point.
down
It
is
see arrow) to
I,
innersole.
to
the
to
partly
hold the end of
After
it
well to the
has been in-
last of
the in-
nersole, and fasten with a tack at the heel.
Diagram
To make
II.
comfortable,
it
is
sole to slice or cut
shoes flexible and
necessary on
them
partly
good innerthrough, maka
ing the cuts about one-eighth inch apart, run30
D»a
Putting
in
Diet,
j_
Steel
Shank
Making
31
z
the soles
flexible
HOW TO BOTTOM
ning across the sole
It is
A WFXTED SHOE
shown
Diagram II.
slice the sole beyond the
as
not necessary to
in
because the shoes are not generally ex-
tip line
pected to bend
between the
at
the toe.
insole
Next
fill
the space
and outersole with
tar felt
Diagram III. This felt should
extend over the whole innersole between the
as
shown
in
seams, and to avoid crying
thinly over the bar
all
it
should be put
around.
Diagram IV shows the outside
shape and skived
The
in
outside sole
because
a
sole cut
in
the shank.
skived in the shank, not
is
thinner or weaker shank
wanted,
is
but because the shank, in order to look neat,
is
finished with a bevel edge.
of leather 1-4 inch thick
it,
Take
and bevel
a
a
piece
part of
the edge on the beveled partwill look to be
thicker than the edge on the part that
beveled.
—
It is this
wish to avoid.
that
is
to
is
apparent thickness that
To overcome
be beveled
in the
this,
not
we
the part
shank must be
trimmed enough to offset the thick appearSee Diagrams C and D on opposite
ance.
side of the sole.
32
Filling the
bottom
Skiving the outside sole
33
HOW TO BOTTOM
The
solid lines
A
WELTED SHOE
on Diagram C represent
a
Notice
piece of leather 1-4 of an inch thick.
the arrow pointing towards the square edge.
The
dotted lines on same diagram represent
a
thinner piece of leather beveled on the edge
and show that beveling causes the thinner
piece to look
piece.
The
as
thick
at
the edge as the thicker
on Diagram
solid lines
D
repre-
sent a thinner piece of leather beveled.
The
dotted lines on the same diagram represent
a
thicker piece of leather square on the edge
and proves that
beveling caused the
thin
piece of leather to seem as thick on the edges
as
the thick
The shank
the
piece
would looked squared.
of the sole
edges only
therefore skived on
is
when
desired.
34
a
beveled
shank
is
MOULDING AND FITTING
THE SOLE
Now
trimmed properly and
the bottom filled and the outersole trimmed
in rough shape and skived, proceed to mould
and fit the sole. In moulding there is one very
that the welt
is
particular point to bear in mind,
advantage must be overcome.
the last the inside shank
outside shank, and too,
To
hollow.
prove
A
to
on
this:
is
longer than the
is
much
has a
greater
take a piece of cord
this,
and measure from
from C
it
It
dis-
e., a
i.
to B,
Diagram
D, following the outside
and
II,
of
your
innersole, and you will find that the distance
is
greater from
only
by
the
C
to
D.
This
is
shank
inside
caused, not
being
longer
but by the hollow of the inside shank being
greater than that of the outside shank also.
The
first,
outside sole which
perfectly
must be moulded or stretched
particular place;
rip
is
if
at this
fit
at
this
not, the sole will probably
between C and D.
stretched
to
flat
The
point so that
35
it
sole
must be
will
conform
"DK*. /
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Moulding and
,^
fitting the sole
36
HOW TO BOTTOM
easily to
A WELTED SHOE
the shape of
the
Since
the
threads in the shank which hold on the outersole are generally
put in
last.
an angle, every
at
care must be taken to see that this sole
moulded, because the
an angle, cannot be
as
when put
must
also
as
strong or hold
be molded to
(the sole) in
its
fit
shoe for trimming.
sole
because
to hold
down
is
it
properly skived
to fasten
it
First lay the sole
to the
on the
well in the shank with the
strap, just as the innersole
the ball
do
in at
place.
sure that the sole
it
to
well
as well
The
the ball,
enough
and well moulded, proceed
shoe, hold
when put
in perfectly square.
the threads will have
Making
stitches
is
was held; fasten
with one nail directly in center,
and then the heel. Tap it all around with
first,
hammer to
The nails
be sure
it
lays well to the welt.
should be placed: one in the
center of the toe, one in the center of the ball
at the shank line, two or as many as
necessary
in the heel seat.
Begin to trim the sole on
the inside of the shoe, and rough-trim the
whole
sole,
after
which trim the
37
sole again
a
Moulding and
fitting
38
a
on the
sole
HOW TO BOTTOM
A WELTED SHOE
square to the welt around the forepart, next
bevel
shank, beginning (to bevel) just
around the shank and forepart line as shown
the
Diagram
in
A.
III, line
Now
heel seat, leaving sole wide
With
on.
thing to do
nel
is
round up the
enough
to
work
the sole well trimmed, the next
is
The
to cut the channel.
chan-
generally cut about 1-8 inch from the
outer edge of the sole, or about the width of
the guard of the iron with
be
which the shoe is to
See Diagram IV showing the iron
guard resting at the edge of the chan-
set up.
with
nel.
bevel
its
The channel
edge
is
cut just as far from the
shank
in the
square edge of the forepart.
the shank
is
left
to
as
it
is
from the
This 1-8 inch
work on when
the edge to the iron.
39
in
fitting
ON THE
STITCHING
In
making ready
that the
is
to stitch
SOLE
on the
sole, see
hands are free from grease, the awl
well sharpened, and everything around you
which might catch
way.
Generally
your thread
in
is
normal shoe,
in a
out of the
six strands
are used in the forepart and seven or eight
The
are used in the shank.
be stitched
fore, to
ing stitches.
thread
is
shanks, because
are compelled, as stated
of their shape,
This
needed
in
most cases with
one reason why
is
at this
shanks, because
a
square awl.
the
is
it
better,
It is
whole shoe with
stitches
which
are
much
a
for
sew the
easier to use than
however,
to stitch
made with
the square awl
Two
awls are neces-
awl for the shank,
the forepart.
shoe-
square awl, because the
are generally stronger.
sary: a larger
to
slant-
a larger
Some
point.
makers use the inseaming awl
be-
In
a
smaller awl
either case,
the
awls
should be smaller than both ends of threads
when
put together, because they (the threads)
should be forced into the hole which the awl
40
D<3
J
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Stitching on the Sole
41
HOW TO BOTTOM
There
has made.
A WELTED SHOE
quite a slight in the use
is
of the stitching awl; the blade of the stitching
awl, being
after
it
flat, is
sure to break
if it is
twisted
has been pushed into the sole.
It is
therefore necessary to push the awl in with
two motions only; one
towards the welt,
is
downward motion
shown by arrow in Diagram
the other
as
is
a
handle
of the
I.
The
awl
should not be pushed further through than
necessary to
make
the hole large
enough
is
for
the bristled part of the thread to be pulled
through.
The
rest of the
end
is
forced or
pulled through and offers a resistance.
awl
when
tions,
pulled out
just as
is
The
handled with two mo-
was when being pushed
it
The
only backward.
straight
in,
arrow shows
the motion of the blade in the sole, the curved
arrow shows the motion
is
of the
handle which
held in the workman's hand.
If
the hole
square and insure
are
generally
a
square
stitch.
overcasted
length of the stitches
of the
made
properly
is
workman.
A
is
42
will
remain
The threads
on the welt;
made
good
it
the
to suit the taste
stitch in the sole
is
Jl^.Z
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ti&
Stitching on the Sole
43
HOW TO BOTTOM
A WELTED SHOE
about eleven to the inch; in the shank about
nine
to
Diagram
the inch.
stitch in the sole
III
shows the
and welt with the channel
not closed.
To
is
close the channel
turned back with
a
dampen
sponge.
the part that
(It
is
best to
dampen whole sole to avoid splotches.)
With the back of the hammer rub it down
diagonally
all
around, after which rub the
whole bottom with the handle
ham-
of the
mer or a rub stick. Never rub the stitches
down in the channel with any instrument that
If this is done
will make the channel spread.
in
it
is extremely hard to make a neat job
Diagram IV shows the channel
closing.
after
it
has been closed.
After this see that the whole bottom
fectly
level while
damp.
well to shoe again.
44
Mold
the
is
per-
shank
BUILDING THE HEEL
Before beginning to build the heel or Jo
put the leather on the shoe for the heel,
best to see that
enough
The
prepared for each heel.
the leather
means
have
to
leather
it
is
them
all
is
a better heel.
The
An
their
re-
enough
In skiv-
better to take from
meaty substances and
side surface.
properly
well in case, well
trimmed to
spective sizes, leaving them just
See Diagram I.
larger to work on.
it
is
preparation of
skived, and the pieces
ing the heel pieces,
it
all
of the out-
heart of the leather
makes
when
put to-
inside surface
gether with an outside surface will not allow
the
heel to properly blend, and will nearly
always show where they are joined.
The
first
tap of the heel should be hollowed out in the
center to suit the seat of the heel on the outersole
which
is
generally a
bottom, see Diagram
Some shoemakers
skiving the
erally
first tap.
little
round on the
III.
skive the sole instead of
Skiving the sole gen-
weakens the heel
45
at
the seat.
It is
bet-
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TJ
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Building the Heel
46
HOW TO BOTTOM
main foundation, which
ter to let the
sole, retain
heel
first
The
instead.
hold
to
trimmed.
See that
lifts,
this
minus the top
with enough
down with
heel
with the top
lift,
before
level
The
remain-
are put
on next
lifts.
Next
long enough
shape.
in
nails
on the innersole.
is
roughly
is
it
lift
lift,
tacks as are
hold them until they are
nails to
roughly trimmed
many
until
it
putting on the remaining
ing
the
should be
first lift
fastened to the sole with as
necessary
is
whole strength by skiving the
its
lift
WELTED SHOE
A
See
if
nail
the
to clinch
the heel will be level
by placing the top
lift
under
the heel and resting the shoe on a level sur-
The
face.
heel
at its
proper height should
allow the seat, or heel of the shoe
tom
lift
of
vamp
to
to the heel
be
level.
and trim
wish the heel to be
gram
nails
to
II.
Next,
hold the tap
when
nail
on the inside
it
it
Next fasten
the top
the exact shape you
finished.
See Dia-
down, putting
as
many
of the heel as are necessary
in place.
The
heel should be nailed thick
tect the heel.
the bot-
at
The
nails
47
outside of the
enough
to pro-
should be placed 1-8
C c*,V
J^i^Building the
48
Her
(#1
HOW TO BOTTOM
A
WELTED SHOE
Of course, if a
person runs the shoe over from the inside, the
Dianails should be changed to suit them.
gram VII shows the difference in lasts, and
inch from the edge of heel.
how
these
lasts
require different heels.
height of the
instep
the
of
outlines of
seats;
generally
last
determines the height of the heel.
Diagram VII show
The
The
three
different heel
the distance from each heel seat to the
floor- line
shows the height
When the heel is finished
it
of
should
each
heel.
rest slightly
on the breast (see Arrow B, Diagram V, side
view of heel, and Diagram VI, rear view of
heel) and not quite touch the floor at the back.
This
should
in
to
is
help
in
walking, for
set perfectly flat
on the
if
the heel
floor, the effect
walking would be clubby, but by allowing
shown in Diagram V, the
be more like rocking in a rock-
the heel to rest, as
walking
will
ing chair.
49
EDGES AND
FOR FINISHING
PREPARATION OF
BOTTOM
Before beginning to prepare the edge and
the heel of the shoe for the ink and burnish-
and bottom are
ing, see that both heel
free
from
stitches
all
ridges
or
First
After the
on the welt have been rubbed down,
trim the edges of the sole
shape
bumps.
level,
as possible,
after
and second steps
in
as
nearly the right
which, rasp
it
well in
prepartion of forepart edge
shape with the rough round side of the rasp.
Next trim
rasp it up
the heel in the shape desired, and
well.
Be sure
50
that the buffer
is
HOW TO BOTTOM
sharpened well.
edge
of sole
this reason
fit
A
The
WELTED SHOE
idea
the iron which
we
to
is
is
make
convex.
the
For
convex end
are using the
of
the buffer and side of the rasp, in order that
the edge might be concave.
buff the edge until
welt
is
is
it
With
smooth.
the buffer,
See that the
trimmed with welt knife and rubbed
Third and fourth steps
in
preparation of forepart edge
down smooth with the bone. Try the iron to
see what or how much is to be taken from the
edge
will
of the sole
show the
on the bottom.
sole
and
just
Diagram
how much
III
will
probably have to be taken from the outer side
for the iron.
This piece of sole
51
is
cut away
First
and second steps
Third and fourth steps
in
in
preparation of the shank edge
preparation of the shank edge
52
HOW TO BOTTOM
A WELTED SHOE
with the square point knife; sometimes with
the lip knife.
After the sole has been bev-
eled on the edge to
fit
the iron, rasp
lightly with the fine side of the rasp
buff and sand-paper
it.
Diagrams
it
off
and then
I
to
show the different stages of the edge of
Diagram IV shows the edge and
part.
IV
fore-
iron
together.
Diagrams
I
to
IV which
follow
shank which has been treated
way
in
as the forepart.
in
show the
the same
After getting the sole
shape proceed to finish the heels.
53
PREPARATION OF THE HEEL
FOR FINISHING
Diagrams
I
to
V show
the heel in
differ-
II
shows
The arrow on Diagram
ent stages.
the
direction to push the rasp.
this
way
to
its
make
rasped
the layers of leather blend.
?•
/.
First
It is
and second steps
in
preparation
of heel for finishing
After the heel
is
rasped the edge of sole
row on Diagram
III
with the welt knife.
line
beginning
level
all
break
is
at
is
cleaned
or cut
out
In cutting see that the
the welt
is
around the heel
used next
at ar-
at
arrow
54
kept straight and
seat.
2
The rhan
around the
seat
HOW TO BOTTOM
of the heel to
file
Buff the heel
until
it
how
real
WELTED SHOE
the material close to the up-
per.
is
A
down and sand-paper
smooth.
Diagram
the heel will appear
when
V
it
shows
finished
if
properly cleaned.
¥
a
Third, fourth and
fifth
steps in preparation of heel for finishing
55
BUFFING,
CLEANING AND POLISHING
THE BOTTOM
After having prepared the edges, the next
thing in order
is
the cleaning of the bottom
Be sure
and making ready for ink.
nails in
that the
the bottom of the heel are filed and
rasped even with the leather so that they cannot be
felt
with the finger.
In buffing the
bottom, be sure that you buff with the grain
The
the leather.
of
show the direction
buffed
If
if
the grain
arrows on Diagram
which the bottom
in
is
running towards the
I
is
toe.
the soles have been cut end for end, from a
piece of leather,
it
be necessary to buff
will
the soles in different
directions to suit the
grain.
After the bottom has been
smooth
as possible
sand-paper.
It is
on the bottom
arrows.
as
left
best to sand-paper in circles
indicated in Diagram II by
Sand-papering straight up and down
leaves
the ink take well the
like
as
with the buffer, begin to
the bottom generally
make
made
velvet.
Two
56
scratches.
To
bottom should be
sizes
of
sand-paper
Sand-papering bottom
Buffing bottom
57
Bottom
after
being cleaned
Bottom after edges are
Shows impression
up.
guard on outer edge
58
set
of
HOW TO BOTTOM
A WELTED SHOE
should be used: the larger size(l 1-2)
and No.
0,
to a very
be
or finer,
smooth surface
sufficient.
arrows,
gram
III
last.
If this
the result
is
will
If
fine
done
59
is
buffed
sand paper
as
after
may
indicated by
be favorable.
shows the bottom
cleaned.
the sole
at first,
it
Dia-
has been
BURNISHING THE EDGE
The edge
to
first
now dampened and
is
be sure that the iron
burnishing the edge the shoe
is
burnished
fits
In
well.
held firmly
in
hand and the burnishing iron held
The iron is pushed
firmly in the right hand.
the
left
back and forth around the damp edge
good square impression
The
little
bead
is
of the iron
until a
made on edge.
will show on the
welt and the impression of the guard of the
bottom edge
iron will appear on the
Diagram IV
(See
black line.)
make
way;
of sole.
of previous lesson,
Set up the shank in the
the
bead
heavy
same
appear on the welt.
Press the iron firmly against the sole to help
make
set
will
the shank lay to the upper.
up, the impressions of the
If
lip
properly
and bead
be against the upper.
Next
divide the stitches on
with the stitch
divider,
forepart
being sure not
break the bead on the welt.
against the
the
Do
to
not scratch
upper with divider.
After stitches are divided apply burnishing
60
HOW TO BOTTOM
ink to the edge and
During
dry.
be heating;
to dry
it
set until
when
they are hot (enough only
when
applied) brush the
to burnish.
white or light bottom
a
is
good
mediumly
time the edge irons should
water quickly
bottom
A
WELTED SHOE
this
edge and proceed
If
let
A
is
desired, the
cleaned after the edges are finished.
finish at this stage will
of liquid tan
polish evenly
be
a thin coat
distributed
rubbed down with the grain and
left to
and
dry.
If a
black bottom
will
have to be used to burnish after the ink
is
desired, the shank slicker
has been distributed and the bottom
Place the
cleaned before finishing the edge.
slicker
on the lamp; while
it is
may be
heating, distrib-
By the
warm enough
ute the ink evenly over the bottom.
time the slicker or burnisher
for use,
is
the ink will be about ready.
proper way
to test the heat of the
burnisher
by applying water from the sponge;
nisher
is
at a
The
if
is
the bur-
right temperature, the water will
not spatter, but will simply dry on the burnisher gradually.
begin to burnish.
Brush the bottom well and
Hold the shoe between
61
HOW TO BOTTOM
A WELTED SHOE
the knees and rub lightly backward and for-
ward, making sure the slicker does not stop
abruptly
come
at
any point.
to a shine,
After the
ink has
brush well again with the
brush and rub briskly with
This will give the bottom
62
a
woolen
a
cloth.
high polish.
TAKING THE LAST OUT OF
THE SHOE
After the shoe has been finished, it should
be allowed to remain on the last until it is
thoroughly dry. Best results are gotten from
a shoe when it is made at least a month before
worn. At any rate the workman
it is to be
should see to it that his job is well seasoned
before it is taken from the last.
Often the
comfort which would be the wearer's and
the praise which would be the workman's, all
are lost because the shoe was taken from the
last too soon, and lost its shape.
To take the last out of the shoe one cannot
The block should be reuse too much care.
moved first and the tack which holds the
counter in position at the heel should be removed. Much pains must be used to see
that the upper is not bursted at the vamp in
front.
The last should not be pulled against
the top of the vamp more than is absolutely
necessary.
Just as soon as the heel allows, the
last should be pulled towards the heel.
After the last is out, the bottom of the
shoe should be carefully examined on the inside to see if there is anything there which
would hurt the foot of the wearer. Heel
pads should be put on the insole at the heel to
cover the clinched nails. The shoe should
then be put in shape, dressed, laced or buttoned and set aside to dry and await the coming of the wearer.
63
c
U
JZ
V)
C
'4=
h
64
One copy
del. to Cat.
fB3
26
»w
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