How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

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How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)
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03-16-2009, 02:12 PM
chris4x4 [OP]
If your enemies are making
mistakes, dont interupt
Name: FlimFlubberJAM
Joined: May 2008, #6497
Location: Tenoe, AZ
Gender: Male
Posts: 83,549
2007 PreRunner
How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)
Spark Plugs are recommended to be changed every 30,000 miles.
On average, it takes about 2 hours to change them if you take some breaks.
Give yourself 4 hours (or more, depending on how familiar you are with working on engine
this before.
The Plugs for the 1GR-FE range in price from $2.50 to $6.00 each. I got mine from Toyota
read The truth about high-priced spark plugs)
A tube of Anti-Sieze is about $5.00, but some places give you little packets of it when you
Here is a "step-by-step" for changing your spark plugs.
You only need a few hand tools to do this yourself:
5/8" Spark Plug Socket
10mm socket (3/8" and 1/4")
12mm socket (3/8" and 1/4")
Long needle nose pliers (Not nessesary, but helps)
(2) 6" extensions (3/8")
(1) 3" extension (3/8")
3/8" and 1/4" ratchet
Spark Plug Gapper
Anti-Sieze
(6) Denso Spark Plugs #K20HR-U11 (Toyota part #90919-01235)
(1) 3/8" Torque wrench
Spark Plug gap needs to be .039 to .043 (max)
Spark Plug Torque is 15 ft.-lbs.
Spark Plugs:
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Anti-Sieze:
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Pliers I used:
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Gap your New Plugs. ( I gap mine @ .040 to .041)
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I wasnt planning on going for a run, but those cops came out of nowhere
Last edited by chris4x4; 03-16-2009 at 05:25 PM.
03-16-2009, 02:17 PM
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chris4x4 [OP]
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/30479-how-spark-plu...
To start, You want to remove a couple things:
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If your enemies are making
mistakes, dont interupt
Name: FlimFlubberJAM
Joined: May 2008, #6497
Location: Tenoe, AZ
Gender: Male
Posts: 83,549
2007 PreRunner
First, Useing a 10mm socket, Remove the engine cover:
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Then, Useing a 12mm socket, you need to remove the intake hose, and filter assembly:
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There are 2 bolts on the hose, and 2 clips on the filter houseing:
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Then Remove:
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I wasnt planning on going for a run, but those cops came out of nowhere
Last edited by chris4x4; 03-16-2009 at 02:27 PM.
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03-16-2009, 02:24 PM
chris4x4 [OP]
If your enemies are making
mistakes, dont interupt
After the air intake and filter houseing are out of the way, You can access the coils.
First, Unplug and Remove the wire harnes to them:
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Name: FlimFlubberJAM
Joined: May 2008, #6497
Location: Tenoe, AZ
Gender: Male
Posts: 83,549
2007 PreRunner
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Then, Remove the 10mm bolt holding the coil on the valve cover. Only remove the bolt on
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Then, Remove the coil:
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In some cases, the coil gasket may stick to the valve cover. Make sure it comes up with the
sure it is seated propperly on the coil:
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After the coil is removed, remove the Spak Plug:
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03-16-2009, 02:31 PM
chris4x4 [OP]
If your enemies are making
mistakes, dont interupt
Useing a little bit of Anti-Sieze on the new Plug, Install the new Plug:
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Name: FlimFlubberJAM
Joined: May 2008, #6497
Location: Tenoe, AZ
Gender: Male
Posts: 83,549
2007 PreRunner
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Thread the new plug in by hand. DO NOT cross thread the plug. Torque the Plug to 15 ft-lb
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Reinstall the coil:
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Plug the Harness back in until you hear it "snap":
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2 more and the passenger side is finished.
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03-16-2009, 02:40 PM
chris4x4 [OP]
If your enemies are making
mistakes, dont interupt
the Driver side has a few more things in the way. For the most part, they can be pushed ou
First, you want to move this bracket (surge tank stay) by removeing the top 12mm bolt, th
12mm bolt.
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Name: FlimFlubberJAM
Joined: May 2008, #6497
Location: Tenoe, AZ
Gender: Male
Posts: 83,549
2007 PreRunner
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Then, Remove the vent hose:
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Then, Remove the VSV connector, and the clip holding the wireing in the way:
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Its tight, But take your time...
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__________________
I wasnt planning on going for a run, but those cops came out of nowhere
Last edited by chris4x4; 03-16-2009 at 02:44 PM.
03-16-2009, 02:50 PM
chris4x4 [OP]
If your enemies are making
mistakes, dont interupt
Name: FlimFlubberJAM
Joined: May 2008, #6497
Location: Tenoe, AZ
Gender: Male
Posts: 83,549
#6
If its your first time changeing the plugs, you will notice that the Driver Side has
NGK, and the passenger has Denso Plugs. Toyota has been doing this for eons, and I
really cant confirm why they do this. Useing 6 Denso plugs is what I recomend.
After all the plugs are installed, Make sure the coil harnesses are plugged in
propperly, and the coils are all bolted back to the valve cover. Then, reconnect the
Vent hose, then the VSV connector, and the Surge Tank Stay. Reinstall your Air
intake, and filter houseing, and the engine cover. Make sure all tools are accounted
for. Then, Start your truck. Drive to the store, and get your self your favorite
beverage. Come back home, and enjoy your beverage knowing you just saved a ton
of cash.
__________________
2007 PreRunner
I wasnt planning on going for a run, but those cops came out of nowhere!
03-16-2009, 02:59 PM
chris4x4 [OP]
When your finished, Check your old plugs to see how they are.
If your enemies are making
mistakes, dont interupt
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Name: FlimFlubberJAM
Joined: May 2008, #6497
Location: Tenoe, AZ
Gender: Male
Posts: 83,549
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2007 PreRunner
This is what you want them to look like. Make sure they are dry, with no oil, no white, and
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03-16-2009, 03:03 PM
#8
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chris4x4 [OP]
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/30479-how-spark-plu...
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...q/faqread2.asp
If your enemies are making
mistakes, dont interupt
Name: FlimFlubberJAM
Joined: May 2008, #6497
Location: Tenoe, AZ
Gender: Male
Posts: 83,549
Normal Condition
An engine's condition can be judged by the appearance of the spark plug's firing end.
If the firing end of a spark plug is brown or light gray, the condition can be judged to
be good and the spark plug is functioning optimally.
2007 PreRunner
Dry and Wet Fouling
Although there are many different cases, if the insulation resistance between the
center electrode and the shell is over 10 ohms, the engine can be started normally. If
the insulation resistance drops to 0 ohms, the firing end is fouled by either wet or dry
carbon.
Overheating
When a spark plug overheats, deposits that have accumulated on the insulator tip
melt and give the insulator tip a glazed or glossy appearance.
Deposits
The accumulation of deposits on the firing end is influenced by oil leakage, fuel
quality and the engine's operating duration.
Lead Fouling
Lead fouling usually appears as yellowish brown deposits on the insulator nose. This
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can not be detected by a resitsance tester at room temperature. Lead compounds
combine at different temperatures. Those formed at 370-470°C (700-790°F) having
the greatest influence on lead resistance.
Breakage
Breakage is usually caused by thermal expansion and thermal shock due to sudden
heating or cooling.
Normal Life
A worn spark plug not only wastes fuel but also strains the whole ignition system
because the expanded gap (due to erosion) requires higher voltages. Normal rates of
gap growth are as follows:
Four Stroke Engines: 0.01~0.02 mm/1,000 km (0.00063~0.000126 inches/1,000
miles)
Two Stroke Engines: 0.02~0.04 mm/1,000 km (0.000126~0.00252 inches/1,000
miles)
Abnormal Erosion
Abnormal electrode erosion is caused by the effects of corrosion, oxidation and
reaction with lead - all resulting in abnormal gap growth.
Melting
Melting is caused by overheating. Mostly, the electrode surface is rather lustrous and
uneven. The melting point of nickel alloy is 1,200~1,300°C (2,200~2,400°F).
Erosion, Corrosion and Oxidation
The material of the electrodes has oxidized, and when the oxidation is heavy it will
be green on the surface. The surface of the electrodes are also fretted and rough.
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Lead Erosion
Lead erosion is caused by lead compounds in the gasoline which react chemically with
the material of the electrodes (nickel alloy) as high temperatures; crystal of nickel
alloy fall off because of the lead compounds permeating and seperating the grain
boundary of the nickel alloy. Typical lead erosion causes the surface of the ground
electrode to become thinner, and the tip of the electrode looks as if it has been
chipped
__________________
I wasnt planning on going for a run, but those cops came out of nowhere!
03-16-2009, 03:03 PM
chris4x4 [OP]
If your enemies are making
mistakes, dont interupt
Name: FlimFlubberJAM
Joined: May 2008, #6497
Location: Tenoe, AZ
Gender: Male
Posts: 83,549
2007 PreRunner
#9
More info:
http://www.4strokes.com/tech/sparkplg.asp
You can tell a lot by reading your spark plug. Here's how to check your jetting by
reading the plug. Always start with a new plug that is of proper heat range and
reach. Using a plug with an improper heat range or incorrect reach can cause engine
damage or poor performance. Proper torque is essential as an improperly tightened
plug can damage the engine. Before removing any plug, clean the area around it
thoroughly to prevent debris from entering the cylinder. A dry acid brush and an air
compressor work great. Run the engine at least 10 minutes, as a new plug will not
color immediately.
To obtain an accurate reading from a new spark plug:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Accelerate at full throttle on a straight
Push the engine stop button and pull the clutch lever in to release the clutch
Coast to a stop
Remove the spark plug
Center ElectrodeSide ElectrodePorcelain
Insulator
It is best to use a magnifying glass to inspect the spark plug. The porcelain insulator
(1) around the center electrode (2) should appear clean and colorless with a gray
ring around the center electrode where it exits the porcelain. Metallic specks indicate
lean jetting that is removing metal from the piston. Black sooty streaks on the
porcelain indicate rich jetting.
ConditionPlug AppearanceMixtureNormalWhite (no color change) with light gray
ringCorrectOverheatingExtreme white with aluminum specsLeanWetWet or sootyRich
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In addition to improper jetting:
A lean condition can be caused by air leaks in the inlet tract or exhaust system,
passing of too much air because of the use of the wrong air filter, use of a
less-restrictive aftermarket exhaust system, or leaks in the air box.
A rich condition can be caused by a plugged or dirty air filter, use of a
more-restrictive aftermarket exhaust system, a clogged spark arrester, or
excessive oil on the air cleaner. Excessive smoking may occur with this
condition.
An article from our Forums:
Reading spark plugs isn't too hard to do, but I've read various understandings of how
to read spark plugs and it seems there's different schools of thought on this. I always
use a lighted magnifying glass of 5X to 10X to better see the tiny deposits. When
checking your spark plug, always use a good used spark plug, making sure it's not
worn out. A worn out spark plug will have a worn or rounded center electrode and or
side electrode. New spark plugs are hard to read accurately for mixture checks, but if
you have to use a new spark plug, then make sure to put at least 15 to 20 hard
minutes on it before attempting to get a reading. I do my spark plug readings from
the base ring at the bottom of the threaded body. The 'L' shaped grounded side
electrode that's welded to the base ring will clue you into the heat range as this is
the closest part to the piston. The porcelain will clue you into timing and
preignition/detonation issues while the base ring will clue you into the mixture. Many
people I've talked to and some of the articles I've read simply look at the porcelain
color and use that as their sole guide for a proper air/fuel mixture, but I don't agree
with that all together and would not recommend basing your jetting decisions solely
on the color of your spark plugs porcelain.
Center/Ground Electrode
You want to first carefully look at the grounded side electrode to determine if you've
got the proper heat range for your spark plug and this is done by closely examining
the color change of the side electrode. If the color of the electrode changes near its
end where it sits over the center electrode, then the spark plug heat range is too cold
and what you're seeing is the color changing due to the heat transferring too quickly.
If the color of the side electrode changes color near where it's welded to the base
ring, then your spark plug is too hot and what you're seeing is a slower heat transfer
from the side electrode to the base ring, resulting in preignition/detonation issues
and most of the deposits will be burned off. Ideally, you want the side electrode of
your spark plug to change color at about the half way point, about where it makes it's
'L' shaped bend.
Base Ring
The second thing you want to check is your spark plugs base ring and this will clue
you into how your bike is jetted. The color of the base ring itself is close in color to
the crown of the piston and what you're looking for here is a nice light to medium
brown color all the way around the base ring. If you're seeing a chalky whitish or
light grayish color or the color doesn't uniformly go all the way around the ring, then
you are running too lean. If the color does go all the way around the ring, but you
see dark colored soft dry soot that's heavily spotted on top of the base ring color,
then you're running too rich and or possibly have a spark plug with too cold of a heat
range. The presence of wet oil or ash deposits is a tell tale sign of possible engine
problems such as valve stem or valve guide wear or worn out piston rings, etc, so
don't confuse this with a rich mixture that leaves your spark plug carbon fouled.
Porcelain Color
The third thing to check is the porcelain color and this will clue you into
preignition/detonation issues. What you're looking for are tiny specs of aluminum on
the porcelain, which can be either black or shiny. If the tip of the insulator appears
melted, then this is yet another clue to a pre-ignition/detonation problem. The
detonation is caused by the air/fuel mixture exploding instead of burning and you
may hear the resulting knocking sound from this, particularly when the engine is
under a load. The knocking sound heard is actually a shock wave that's disrupting the
boundary layer of cooler gasses that cover the internal parts of the combustion
chamber, resulting in incomplete combustion. This rapid rise in pressure and
temperature exerts extreme force on engine components and can do very bad things
such as crack your engines head, crack or put holes in your piston, blow head
gaskets, break your connecting rod, damage bearings, seals, etc. This is why you
should not base all your jetting decisions on just the porcelain color alone because
the porcelain color doesn't tell the whole story. Although the porcelain and base ring
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colors are similar, the porcelain usually appears lighter in color when compared to
the base ring.
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I wasnt planning on going for a run, but those cops came out of nowhere!
03-16-2009, 03:03 PM
txusa03
Member
Joined: Jan 2009, #12279
Location: planet earth
Gender: Male
Posts: 84
#10
nice DIY writeup and nice clear photos...So the new plugs do not come with the
correct gap from factory? I thought you bought these plugs from Toyota and should
they not have the correct gap to start with? Thanks for any clarifications.
03-16-2009, 03:06 PM
chris4x4 [OP]
If your enemies are making
mistakes, dont interupt
Name: FlimFlubberJAM
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Location: Tenoe, AZ
Gender: Male
Posts: 83,549
#11
Quote:
Originally Posted by txusa03
nice DIY writeup and nice clear photos...So the new plugs do not come with
the correct gap from factory? I thought you bought these plugs from Toyota
and should they not have the correct gap to start with? Thanks for any
clarifications.
Most places say the Plugs are "Pre-Gapped", when they are not. I bought these from
Toyota, and they told me they were Pre-gapped. I checked them, and they were
pretty close. The gapps ranged from .040 to .044. I gapped mine all to .040 to .041.
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2007 PreRunner
I wasnt planning on going for a run, but those cops came out of nowhere!
03-16-2009, 03:11 PM
#12
30/09/2012 8:07 PM
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txusa03
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http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/30479-how-spark-plu...
I see. My truck is very new so I wont be replacing mine any time soon but I do like to
read up on DIY for future. I have the "wimpy" 2.7 I4, do you know if it is as easy to
do vs your V6? Beside 4 plugs vs 6 plugs.
03-16-2009, 03:11 PM
sliverworm
Senior Member
#13
any pics on how you changed the on on the driver's side closed to the firewall I
could't reach that thing!
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06 PreRunner TRD Offroad
03-16-2009, 03:13 PM
Snipe
#14
Nice write up Chris
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2009, #12421
Location: Pacific NW
Gender: Male
Posts: 1,160
I sure miss the days where you opened the hood and all the spark plug boots were
staring right back at you, of course back then we had to deal with rotors and
distributor caps that that need changing too
08 TRD Off Road
03-16-2009, 03:14 PM
chris4x4 [OP]
If your enemies are making
mistakes, dont interupt
#15
Quote:
Originally Posted by txusa03
I see. My truck is very new so I wont be replacing mine any time soon but I
do like to read up on DIY for future. I have the "wimpy" 2.7 I4, do you know if
it is as easy to do vs your V6? Beside 4 plugs vs 6 plugs.
On the 2.7, Just need to remove your air intake and you should be clear of
everything. Use Plugs #SK20R11
Name: FlimFlubberJAM
Joined: May 2008, #6497
Location: Tenoe, AZ
Gender: Male
Posts: 83,549
2007 PreRunner
Quote:
Originally Posted by sliverworm
any pics on how you changed the on on the driver's side closed to the firewall
I could't reach that thing!
That one was much easier than the driver side front. Just push the heater hoses out
of the way, and you should have plenty of room.
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I wasnt planning on going for a run, but those cops came out of nowhere!
03-16-2009, 03:18 PM
David Tarantino
#16
Nice Job Chris
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08 tacoma
03-16-2009, 03:19 PM
Dark Knight
East Bound and Down
#17
subscribed for later info. Thanks Chris
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Trail Limo
03-16-2009, 03:26 PM
chris4x4 [OP]
If your enemies are making
mistakes, dont interupt
#18
Quote:
Originally Posted by SecretSquirrel
That driver's side front coil was a bitch for me to reattach. Took me close to
an hour of knuckle-knicking to get it right...
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Hmm.....I just rotated the coil into the harness and it went right in. I can see how it
would be a PITA, though. Not much room there.
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Name: FlimFlubberJAM
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2007 PreRunner
I wasnt planning on going for a run, but those cops came out of nowhere!
03-16-2009, 03:28 PM
chris4x4 [OP]
If your enemies are making
mistakes, dont interupt
#19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snipe
Nice write up Chris
I sure miss the days where you opened the hood and all the spark plug boots
were staring right back at you, of course back then we had to deal with rotors
and distributor caps that that need changing too
Name: FlimFlubberJAM
Joined: May 2008, #6497
Location: Tenoe, AZ
Gender: Male
Posts: 83,549
2007 PreRunner
Ah, yes...the good ol' days. On my '62 Dodge, I tested the coil by haveing my little
Brother hold it and ground out, while I turned the key.
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tarantino
Nice Job Chris
Thanks!!
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I wasnt planning on going for a run, but those cops came out of nowhere!
03-16-2009, 03:41 PM
gdawg25
Zoom-Zoom
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4
When your finished, Check your old plugs to see how they are.
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This is what you want them to look like. Make sure they are dry, with no oil, no white, a
dark.
Joined: Oct 2006, #136
Location: Victoria, BC
Age: 30
Gender: Dude
Posts: 1,035
What does it mean if there is oil, they are white, or they are too dark? I changed mine a w
noticed one of the old plugs had a bit of what seemed to be oil on the threads.
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