1. hobbies and interests
2. needlework

COTTONS,
LINENS,
WOOLLENS,
SILKS.
How
to
and
Buy
Materials.
Judge
:x
A
USEFUL
WITH
GUIDE
FACTS
SHOP
WAREHOUSE,
and
FOR
HOME.
'"my
By
HY.
B
HEYLIN,
Author
"
"Buyers
Cotton
and
Weaver's
Sellers
JOHN
Printers,
MANCHESTER
of
Handbook,"
in
the
Cotton
Trade,"
LTD.,
HEYWOOD
Pubi.ishefs,
"
"c.,
Bookbinders,
LONDON,
E.G.
etc.
T5
^a^M^i)
CONTENTS
I.
CHAPTER
IntrodtjcJtion.
TAGES
Varieties
of
Opinion
for
Retail
and
Trade
Comparative
Sellers
User
^Value for
"
Taste
Public
Values
of Materials
for
Opportunities
Business
"
Fabric
General
of Merchant
"
Tailor, Milliner,
Buyers Generally
"
Information
Further
"
tion
Tempta-
"
the
to
Shirtmaker,
Householder,
Dressmaker,
to
Bargain
"
Money
Draper,
"
Given
Imitate
to
Materials
Names
Judgment
"
"
Buying, Selling,Using
CHAPTER
Textile
Woven
Used
Fibres
Knitted
or
Fibres
Fibres,
Threads
"
of
Mungo
Threads
"
"
"
Spun
Silk
Reeled
"
"
Cotton
Yarns
for
and
"
Worsted
^Doubled
"
"
Worsted
Shoddy
"
Waste
Yarns
Artificial
and
to
"
and
Silk, Silk
Silk, Spun
Mixed
Cotton
"
Experiments
"
Thread
Competitors
of
^Experiments,
"
Threads
Extract
Wool
Union
of
Woollen
"
Thread
Wool
or
Threads
Thickness
"
Quahty
Cotton
"
Yarns
Tendency
and
Chief
"
^Vegetable
"
Textile
"
All-wool
Thickness
Threads
^Mercerised
Threads
Goods
Noils
Silk
"
"
Spun
Wool
"
Fibres
Processes
"
Fibres
Yarns
Single
"
Thread
Noil
Finer
"
Comparisons
Yarns
Thread
Spinning with
Hand
for
Mechanical
All-cotton
Yarn
Hosiery
in
by
Fibres
"
of Threads
Other
"
Textures,
and
Materials
Textile
Fibres
Formation
"
Threads,
Construction
in the
Animal
"
II.
"
Pure
Mixed.
Silk
Adulterate
Substitution.
ly-y^
iv.
CONTENTS.
for
Combining
"'
Carpets
"
Notes
Sale
on
"
"
All -wool
Flannel
or
Goods
of
"
"
Sometimes
"
Cotton
Goods
Goods
Low
Defects
Dye
"
of
a
Mixed
Materials
Vestings
in
Handful
"
of
"
"
Heavy
Why
Danger
Adulterated
and
Damage
Garments
Names
Materials
Adulterate
Selling Overalls, Slops,
"
"
and
Sustained
"
"
Sizing"
or
and
'its
of
Examples
"
Price
Selling
in
which
and
Dyed
Goods
Showy
"
Figured Muslins,
"
Ornamentation
for
Suggestive
"
Goods
"
and
Cheap
Yarn
Thread
a
Bleached,
Grey,
Embroidery
Swiss
"
"
"
Mercerised
"
Adulteration
"
used
"
the
Goods
of
Goods
Finished
"
Lappets
"Cotton
largely
is
Cotton
of Cotton
Cotton
Goods
Woven
Keeping
"
Filling
Goods
Fine
of
Priced
High
"
Fine
Costs
"
"
Fibres
-Unripe
"
and
Quahty
the
Cloth
a
Cotton
Yarns
Distingmsh
to
Inflammability
"
Adulteration
and
Goods
and
in
Differences
Down
Deceive
to
Coarse
on
of
Quality
the
Cloth
Effect
Goods
Ascertaining
Popularity
Reducing
Stapled
Long
"
Cottons
Coarse
^How
Properties
Dyeing
"
Cotton
in
IVIildew
American
"
Fine
Thread,
Cotton,
Tests
Microscopic
"
Fibres
Other
Indian
"
Threads.
and
Sewing
Island, Egyptian,
Sea
"
Fibres
of
Unadulterated
Cotton
"
almost
III.
Hosiery,
Lace,
:"
AVoven
and
"
4-12
Characteristics
Chief
from
as
cription
Misdes-
for
Flannel
CHAPTER
and
Goods
Flannelette
becomes
"
for
^Misdescription
"
Prosecutions
"
pages
Unions,
Sell Mixed
Illegalto
"
Used
Woollen
"
Frauds
Flannel
"
"
"
of
Methods
Threads
Mixed
"
of
Bradford
"
Other
"
All-silk
"
Flannelette
Goods
"
"
All-wool
"
Flannel,
of
Cheapness
Combination
"
Materials
Lustres
Shirting,
Union
Stuffs,
Silk
Spun
of Different
Yarns
Weft
and
Warp
for
Cotton
Mercerised
of
of
by
Goods
Cotton
Selling
Materials
Grandrelle
through
"
?
"
a
"
Good
^Deceit
Shirtings
"
Wearing
13-18
V^
CONTENTS.
Linen
"
of
Length
Fibre
Fibre
for
Merits
Buckram
and
EndurabiUty
Goods
in
Threads
from
Grass,
Strength
"
Uses
"
Freedom
for
Wool
Wool
of
:
Woollen
made
Its
"
Feel,
"
from
be
from
22-23
with
compared
Goods
Suitable
"
Yams
23"24
Merino
Cashmere,
their
and
Wools,
24:
Hair, Camel's
their
Shetland,
and
Welsh
Test
Cotton
Crossbreds,
Cheviot
Irish, Scotch,
Wool
Hair,
for
of
Quality
Threads
some
Home
for
a
of
Cloth
in
Welsh,
Yarns
Spun
"
of
Testing
"
Scotch,
^Home
"
Imitation
"
Testing
"
Botany,
Wools
for Wools
Weaknes
"
Hair, Rabbit's
24
Wools,
Physical
Hair, Cow's
uses
British
and
Steeping
made
uses
Horse
and
of
"
Thread
Strength, Durability
Alpaca, Mohair,
chief
Chief
Appearance
to
Peciiliarities
Worsted
and
Properties
Effect
"
suitable
Woollen
a
culties
Diffi-
21-22
Hygroscopic
Finishing
and
Fibres
Other
Microscopic
"
Goods
"
Cost
"
China
Ramie,
"
Characteristics
^Its
"
and
Water
Worsted
Effects
with
Mildew
Peculiarity
"
it is put
its
Jute,
"
Felting
in Warm
Fibres
PulHng
"
"
with
compared
for Linen
Lustrous
"
from
Value
Compared
Goods
which
to
Characteristics
:
Linen
19-20
compared
Its Value
"
Wool
Its
Uses
Grass
Rhea
Towels
Cotton
Tests
Underlinen,
Imitating
"
Its
"
Cloth
a
Chief
Hemp,
"
Physical
"
Linen
on
of Linen
Cost
Handkerchief
Towels,
as
pages
"
Absorbent
an
as
a
as
such
and
^Linen
"
Use
Finish
Laundry
Cotton
Cotton
Its
"
Tests
Microscopic
"
Reputation
Goods
Other
"
with
Its
"
Drier
Rapid
"
Characteristics
^Its
:
Spuns
Mixture
low
"
-
"
"
of Wool
by staple
class
of
Woollen
Cloths
24-25
Silk
:
"
and
^Warp
"
Silks
in
used
silk
in
"
the
Thrown
and
Weft
and
"
Reeled
Materials
Folds
it is used
with
"
"
^Adulteration
"
"
"
Silk
Organzine,
"
^Microscopic Appearance
Combination
Goods
Silk
"
Goods
of
for
Pure
"
are
"
Silk
Mixed
Fibres
"
All -silks
sive
Expen-
"
Other
Tram
and
"
"
it is
"
All-
Cracking
Materials"
CONTENTS
VI.
Velvets
Silk
"
Silk
Spun
"
it is Used
which
Other
Tussore
Silk
Fabrics
Mercerised
SiiiK Noil
Goods
in
Silks
Spun
"
for
or
between
27-2S
Silk
Chief
Uses
"
Adulterated
for
Silk
Net
Distinguishing
"
"
Tussah
"
and
Testing
"
Threads
Artificial
"
Strength
Silk
Pure
Materials
Differences
and
Comparative
:
Tests
Physical
Prices
"
25-26
Silk
Yarns
Embroidery
and
Yarns
Doubled
or
pages
Goods
of Useful
Examples
"
Faced
Twill
and
Silk
for
Folded
"
and
Filoselle
Silk
Its Uses
:
Satin
"
offered
Substitutes
Xiinings
in
Plushes
Silk
or
from
Silk
Spun
28-29
Material
a
Wood
"ihey
Silk
of Artificial
Uses
and
Pulp
Used
are
Absorbent
which
for
Materials
"
29
Value
Competitive
Yarns
Paper
Water
"
Its
"
29"30
Properties
IV.
CHAPTER
Weaving.
Constructing
and
Weft
and
Cop
Threads""
"
of
Purpose
of
Cloth
Quality
of
a
and
Weave
Twill
and
Heavier
Weight
of
should
run
be
may
Combinations
for Cotton,
its
tive
Compara-
"
Weaving
Fabric
Found
Sateens
"
Weaves
^^^^here
"
"
and
in
Worsted
"
"
Cloths
"
".
Greater
"
of
Closeness
amples
Ex-
Further
Examples
Direction
Woollen,
Twill
Two
Increasing
"
Florentine
Light Weight
"
of Cloth
Quality
and
the
for
Warp
Satinette
"
for
"
Listing
"
Two
and
or
Plain
Matted
or
Sateens
of Weaves
Design
Taped
a
to
"
^Width
"
Interlacing
Satin
"
the
and
or
and
Twills
and
Tlireads
"
Determine
"
Threads
Selvedge
to
of
Sateens
Cloths
in
Scope
Weft
Thread
a
Stockinette
"
Interlacing
Weft
and
of
Darning
Harvard
"
of
Method
which
in
""Shuttle
Shots
Preparing
"
Methods
Twill
Sheeting
Warp
"
"
Other
"
Warp
and
Quality
Methods
Altered
be
may
Factors
"
Variable
and
Warp
a
"
Warp
Purposes
"
Cloth
Strength
Xioom"
"
Sizing
l.ength
"
of
Features
"
Warp
"
Simplest
"
Cloth
Selvedges, Listings
"
Picks
Spool
or
Produce
or
Texture
a
of Weave
which
Twill
Goods
31-43
....
CONTENTS.
VII.
CHAPTER
V.
Fabrics.
Figured
Extra
Figures
Warp
for
Suitable
Muslins
this
Swivel
Figures
Swiss
Method
Yarn
Whip
"
of
Embroidery
of
Examples
such
Curtains
Madras
of Figure
Work
they
Threads
'*
Made
Pile
to
""
"
with
and
of
Pile
Cut
"
"
Pile
Warp
of
Silk
Pile
with
Velvet
"
Cut
from
Silk
"
"
Utrecht
"
"
Fabrics
Satin
Cloths
of
Fabric
Pillow
"
^Loop
"
^How
"
Pile
Common
51-53
Classes
Fabrics
Goods
"
Weft
Velvets
Warp
"
VII.
Fabrics.
Compound
Cloths
"
ness
Firm-
the
Examples
Fabrics
Made
of Goods
"
with
Made
CHAPTER
Ply
Work
"
Velveteen
Faced
"
VI.
Pile
Pile
Experiment
to
"
Fabrics.
"
Uncut
"
Backing
Distinguish
Cloth
Crewel
"
44-50
Weft
the
Examples
"
Combined
"
Interlacing
Cut
"
Lappets
Constructed
are
Pile
Made
from
and
Canvas
CHAPTER
Pile
Materials
Needlework
"
^How
"
Suitable
"
and
Embroidery
Figured
^Lappet Figured
"
Distinguish
to
^Materials
"
Distinguish Lappets
to
Woven
How
"
Figures
Figuring
^How
"
How
"
Weft
Extra
"
PAGES
"
"
"
Double
Two,
"
"
Faced
Weft
Four
Three,
Slips, Tapes,
Together
Fabrics
Backed
Cotton
"c.
Quilts
Fabric
Ply
^Double
Woven
"
"
"
Bagging,
Woollen
Two
Stitching Warps
"
Warp
Examples
"
Fabrics
Stitching
"
Belting, Hosepiping
Toilet
"
Reversible
Tapestry
Fabrics
54-56
CONTENTS.
Vlll.
CHAPTER
VIII.
PAGES
Tapestries.
Real
may
"
Found
be
Wealthy
the
the
Real
How
to
Their
"
of
use
Tapestries
Reversible
Tapestries
Other
^Imitations
of
suggested
in
Colours
of
Weft
"
chanically
Me-
Fabrics
Tapestries
"
of
Side
Face
"
Imitation
as
for
"
Mechanically
submitted
Fabrics
names
ot
the
for Values
Comparisons
"
Reach
Examples
"
they
Mechanically
Weft
Tapestries
as
"
from
Tapestries
Tapestries
"
Real
in
Commercially
"
Commerce
the
Produced
the
Limitation
Woven
Warp
of
^Where
"
Within
Only
How
"
Hand
by
"
Tapestries
"
Tapestry
"
offered
Uses
Distinguish
Imitated
Made
How
Tapestries
Imitation
some
57- 61
Tapestries
IX.
CHAPTER
Carpets.
of
Producing
Standard
and
Construction
Pile
is
Carpet
How
"
Width
Wilton,
"
Patent
Wilton,
Brussels,
Tapestry
tell their
Tapestry
Axminster
"
Materials
from
"
Materials
"
of
Production
"
Weaving
"
How
Qualities
in
"
their
Tufted
the
Design
or
Construction
in
"
on
How
to
62-65
Others
Gatjze, Cross,
in
Methods
"
used
Pattern
X.
CHAPTER
Difference
Carpets
"
Distinguishing Brussels,
Carpets
used
Reversibles
or
Comparative
of
Method
Patent
prepared
Distinguish
to
"
Art,
Ingrain,
Pile, Tufted,
True
Construction
Peculiarity
or
Leno
between
of Construction
Weaving.
this and
"
Ordinary
Examples
66-68
....
CONTENTS.
IX.
CHAPTER
Comparative
XI.
Quajlities
Cloth
PAGE"
Waterproof
and
Cloths.
of
Strength
Weft
Strength
of
Cloths
Strength
is
Required
of
Cloths
Rainproof
Wearing
Difficulty
"
Explanation
Defective
Features
Cloth
Yarn
"
between
Loom
Difference
'
"
Pulled
Good
How
to
tell
Finished
"
or
a
in
Straight
Threads
Distorted
"
of the
the
Woven
Faults
and
Printed,
Glossary
"
Cloth
and
"
Woven
in
of Terms
of
Faults
Grey
and
Goods
for
Finishing
Selvedges
from
a
"
the
"
"
Cheap
"
hang
Cloth.
the
in the
Faults
"
Textile
Threads
Woven
Coloured
Treatment
Bleached
"
XII.
Construction
Texture
Weaving
Yarn
the
tell the
69-75
Faults
in
"
"
cloth
CHAPTER
Faults
"
and
Threads
and
Weaves
"
Cloth
"
Yarns
to
and
Finished
Class
be
Thickness
How
Finishing
of
of Waterproof
"
Mixed
and
Patterns
High
Cloth
pull
"
of
"
in
Objectional
"
Sized
"
Goods
Patterns
Striped
Quahties
another
to
Shower
Threads
Goods
"
"
should
Comparison
Finished
a
Qualities
Proofed
and
Pure
Check
"
for
cloth
and
"
Defective
Tests
one
State
Cloths
proofs,
Water-
Object
in
this
Good
bility
Unrelia"
Ideal
The
why
binations
com-
Ducks
Decoy
"
tell the
Rubber
"
"
which
to
Its
"
Saturated
Getting
to
due
Examples
"
"
Knowing
Rainproof
or
Water
in
"
Tearing Strong
"
Goods
Cloths
"
in
How
"
Spoiled
Dyed
to
Waterproof
a
Direction
"
Showerproofs
s,
Imperviousness
prove
Rain
for
Threads
Warp
Wrongly
Woven
Irregular
"
Weft
Test
Tearing
"
Way
Cloths
"
and
Warp
the
through
Cloths
forming
Texture,
Woven
"
Make-up
Materials
Faults
Goods
in
of Goods
or
"
Dyed,
76-78
79-101
Woollens,
Linens,
Cottons,
Silks.
""""
"
I.
CHAPTER
Introduction.
is
there
a
also
appear
''
a,
fancy
silk/'
when
that
its
a
such
will
people
of
values
they
materials
would
to
for
as,
general
to
users
get
pure
form
scarcely
theh
is
of
of
tion
implica-
an
any
comparative
feel,
method
other
in
linen.
or
accustomed
and
or
material
genuine
opinion
other
stated,
silk, woollen,
appearance
think
flannel,''
In
is
contrary
the
"
"c.
article, there
the
as
by
the
to
materials
to
examples,
silk,"
obtaui
will
person
sometimes
that
given
mercerised
given
construction,
Some
"
nothing
is
name
such
mislead,
to
Colonial
instances,
sometimes
definitions
trade
The
and
retailers
textile
woven
identification.
their
with
confused
to
numerous,
so
for
tendency
given
names
become
have
materials
trade
and
varieties
The
as
an
alternative.
textile
The
developed
of
and
the
and
stage,
has
industry
distributive
have
industries
"
there
as
now
reached
in
competition
become
often
occurs
every
both
severe"
a
a
highlybranch
productive
temptation
for
2
INTRODUCTION.
sellers to
some
article
good
a
the
already
retail traders
The
with
quality,but merely
general retail
A
value
one
"
for
money
will
ultimately become
not
prove
to
buying
woven,
sold
whether
begins to
wonder
and
whether
also
dear
a
satisfactory for
been
have
in
reached
accordingly
materials, where
"
the
bargain
user.
is
stage
consistent
thinking about
so-called
a
obtain,
to
sometimes
without
times
offer
to
of
market.
the market,
other
good quality,at
production
generallyanxious
also
on
the
cheapen
the
on
are
article
cheapest
and
imitate
without
Goods
one.
bought
may
They
may
reasons.
many
article
cheap
a
particularguarantee
any
is
there
as
to-
quality.
business
It is the
If
fancy
a
to suit the
merchant
a
superior, indifferent, or
with
either
of
word
or
name
given
is sufficient inducement
to
to
an
encourage
public taste
articles.
rubbishy
indifferent
a
person
articleto
buy
article,regardlessof its superiorityin quality,then
that
the
selection
of
onus
received
value
for
rests
with
the
purchaser.
There
is
no
for
obtainingfurther
textile
into
materials
technicalities.
towards
work
as
buyers generallyshould
fabric
a
is to
adduced
be
to
reason
tailor, milliner, dressmaker,
shirtmaker,
or
sound
demand
supply
possible.
without
use
On
the
in that
that
going
householder,,
opportunities-
too
deeply
contrary, everything points
direction.
want
have
draper,,
respectingthe principal,
information
in
not
why
as
The
object of
clearly and
this-
concisely
6
INTRODUCTION.
natural
A
the
of
is
conclusion
that
is
liandling
will
knowledge.
the
To
dearest
-attainable
possible
is
"
selling
buy
in
a
"
as
for
buying
m
''
''
or
the
which
bought
cheapest
of
the
stated
''
to
if
obtain
of
market
but
material
commensurate
Then
such
and
sell
seldom
method,
price.
a
buying
devoid
perfection,
best
tunities
oppor-
one's
alternative
an
is
a
using."'
than
the
in
the
still,
suiting
greater
material
evinced
important
counsel
however,
ascertain
to
being
far
be
ledge
know-
a
textile
any
will
and
be
is
;
judgment
in
More
same.
judgment
requirements
of
interest
when
to,
come
may
construction
greater
the
of
for
in
and
origin
known,
one
it
and
by
what
good
return
is
TEXTILE
FIBRES,
AND
THREADS,
CHAPTER
Textile
Woven
by
or
Fibres,
Threads,
knitted
textiSe
A
convenient
a
minute
that
"
known
as
embraced
thread
or
exception,
it would
"
of
chief
to
hair-like
been
be
might
shown
twisted
length
considered
later, although
to
answer
fibres used
textures
ramie
"
the above
of
as
times
some-
definition
fibres
of
from
extensive
in
demand,
yarns,
for
fibres obtained
flax, hemp,
grass.
2. Those
the
these
two
mam
from
the
jute, china
fibres obtained
(mohaii% alpaca, horsehair),
cocoon
modern
or
of
manufacturing
cotton,
more
artificial silk,viscose,
construction
be classified into
wool, hair
as
silk filaments
Other
as
gi-ass, rhea
animals,
as
1. Those
:
vegetable kingdom,
grass,
the
in
tissues,may
or
sections, namely
and
be
a
silk
net
commercially known
threads
from
short, fine
very
continuous
to
strands
or
ruptured, will show
or
form
appear
useful
fibre."
The
into
threads
have
will
obtain
to
other
or
fibres,''which
Raw
as
these
from
together
strand.
cords,
or
apparel
is broken
it is constructed
threads
an
of
one
produced
are
form.
examination
individuallywhen
Textures.
and
materials
for wearing
texture
in
purposes
or
II.
interlacingof threads, strands,
an
suitable
a
TEXTURES.
of silk
adoption
woodpulp,
deserve
worm.
due
like
although
notice
because
paper,
not
as
thev
TEXTILE
becoming
are
popular
more
in
especiallyso, which,
"
silk
"
"
and
"
fibre
is
cases,
"
5
TEXTURES.
Artificial
day.
every
some
mercerised
Mineral
AND
THREADS;
FIBRES,
supplanting
silk
"
spun
cotton.
like asbestos
for
used
seldom
is very
textile materials.
woven
"
fibre
Marine
''
used, but
has also been
much
made
not
headway.
Textile threads, strands,
or
silk, and
cotton, linen, woollen, spun
by
mechanical
together
bulk
A
required.
cotton,"
weight
of
produce
forty
this
times
thread
the
length
any
required
will be
thread
For
example,
"
or
the
are,
"
counts
Sea Islands
American
short
the
and
constructed
Anyone
and
can
to
to
of
thickness
length
cotton
a
a
case
thickness
certain
a
of
ordinary
or
used
were
would
be
endurable
yarn
than
simple experiment
fine
section
cross
if coarser
fibres
of
its thickness.
to
also
former
perform
of
section
cross
long staple in
stapled
more
a
greater number
a
be the
a
pound
greater the number
proportion
would
The
construction.
''all
be spun
quality,fineness,and
contain
fibres of
than
of
8,000 yards
the
to
or
threads
A
can
illustration,
hosieryyarn
would
cotton
of the thread
in
spun,
cotton
a
masses
"c.
from
or
fibre used.
or
be
to
ends,
composed
required grouped together in
the
twisting
or
of the
wool,"
thread, say
and
fibres
finer the
The
of
all
length, according
staple
of cotton
an
as
'"
be
would
"
thread
cotton,
raw
formed
are
lesser
or
counts
or
thread
cotton
woollen
a
"
thickness
the
suit
to
spinning
lengths into greater
hair-like
other
jute
fibres,filaments, short
of
series
a
of
processes
from
constructed
yarns,
a
in
its
better-
the latter.
to
confirm
6
of
cotton
the
left hand,
a
thread
(hard
the
upon
"
of
more
wUl
be
''
The
twisting
the
length
"
the
of
section
of
and
Take
with
a
a
small
"
or
the
drawing
tinuous
con-
withdrawn
if
The
finer will be the
will also
amount
the
and
and
depend
and
process,
required, also
greater
perfectly
finer and
thread
apply
exaggerated
an
fibres
varies
from
number
required to
with
characteristics, and
grouped
according
the
it is
to
the
sewing
a
with
or
piece
fill the
finer
or
compare
of
a
the
the
in
cloth.
of
:
"
Count
Fill
the
of
results.
it
same
uniform
up
Afterwards
threads
cross
thickness
gauge.''
number
to
vidual
their indi-
to
follows
threads
gauge.
coarse
as
a
cotton
scale,
density or
"
for
ring
or
counts,''
drawn
experiment
it,and
to
be carried out
tube
threads
the
a
will
the
irrespectiveof
of
number
thiclaiess
of
thread, may
of the spun
''
on
thread
spun
thickness
form
silk filaments.
raw
number
the
a
finger
fibres,flax fibres for linen thread, and
wool
that
prove
second
gradually
remarks
simple experiment
A
fibres,
produced
greater value.
of
These
possibleto spin.
also the waste
the
to
produced,
yarn
staple,the
cotton
spinning of
finer
the
strength,thickness,
fibres
will be
produced, obviously
longer
"
wool
or
''
the
"
"
bulk.
the
The
twisting given
of
amount
in
of the fibres
portion
rightfirst or
soft) of the strand
or
cotton
from
strand.
held
"
disconnecting from
the
between
or
quantity
preference
thereby interlockingthem
thumb,
feel
without
small
a
operation of withdrawing
the
them
twist
or
and
gradually withdraw
During
bulk.
roll
in
"
TEXTURES.
With
cotton
right hand,
the
with
fibre
wool
or
AND
remarks.
aforesaid
of the
some
THREADS,
FIBRES,
TEXTILE
of the
the
repeat
same
8
TEXTILE
noils
Wool
for
wool
lustrous, stronger,
more
the
worsted
waste
wool
in
produced
fibres,or
coarser
the
are
than
yarns
and
and
better
longer
lower
staples,
qualitiesof
wool
staples,or
tops.''
extract"
"Wool
and
woollen
extracted
for
worsted
by
mungO
which
rags
re-formed
into
and
rags,
low-class
used
togetherand
strands
for
the
qualities
tweeds.
or
fibre mixtures.
by specialprocesses
again
use
Shoddy
from
mungo
The
woollen
for
other
up
cheaper fabrics.
of
goods, like
also have
coarse
process.
into low
terms
are
of
composed
rags
up
may
all broken
are
worked
woollen
cheap
from
carbonising
a
is afterwards
and
Shoddy
is obtained
cotton
wool
of yarns
hard
A
the shorter
are
producing
than
cloth
These
is
TEXTURES.
AND
thread.
woollen
"
thread
uniform
used
THREADS,
quite marked.
is
threads
and
MBRES,
in the production
is made
soft
from
knitted
or
rags
the
goods.
Silk threads
First.
are
Reeled
"
of the
Second."
"
silk
-Spun
of
Silk noil
exhaust
raw
or
conditions
silk from
net
or
silk
cultivated
"waste''
Third.
in three
used
worm
"net"
or
re-spun
sweepings
"
the
from
spun
the
silk.
silk from
made
material
raw
cocoon.
silk threads
or
:
in
the waste
the
and
silk
spun
processes.
Mercerised
through
a
a
yarns
caustic
are
soda
physical change,
accustomed
to
and
seeing.
cotton
yarns
treatment,
producing
which
have
passed
thereby undergoing
the
lustre
one
is
In
in
preference
but
"
they
Cotton
cloths
threads
cotton
and
These
firms
be
to
for
the
''
spun
"
"
to
''
{d).
Some
yarns.
of
running
artificial silk for
practice
mal-
This
goods.
by
country
own
our
and
silk ;
and
union
silk
net
pure
"
"
mixed
(a) Wool
:
silk and
net
*'
the extent
to
gone
in the
higher
combination
a
above
of
purpose
The
product.
yarns
mungo.
as
instance
every
thread
a
as
wa}-
of
foreigncompetition.
meet
almost
and
raw
extend
may
make
of
as
(c) cotton
;
known
of
production
silk
have
together filaments
In
article
sometimes
are
fibres such
(e)cotton
be
would
retaliation
strands
or
and
flax ;
Continental
the
such
no
with
produced
are
of different
(6) wool
;
is
waste.
Spun
cotton
being cheaper,
to
There
durable.
as
selected
are
yarns
silk, owing
spun
waste
composed
or
cotton
silk/'
cotton
The
to
not
are
mercerised
from
mercerised
cases
many
9
TEXTURES.
AND
THREADS,
MBRES,
TEXTILE
price
be
will
manner
the
cheapening
the
of fibres to
of the
found
to
manufactured
expensive
more
material, the greater will be the tendency for competitors
to
adulterate
the
possible, by
purity
of the
increased
an
produced
admixture
article wherever
the
of
cheaper
material.
These
fibres would
the
spinning of
more
or
to
For
be
threads
twisted
thread
;
in
during some
some
an
example,
article and
a
the
twisted
or
spinning
sometimes
fine thread
would
of spun
"doubled"
be
process,
to
of the
process
however,
cases,
of different materials
together after
cheapen
found
be mixed
get
a
"
two
doubled
or
''
sometimes
better effect
silk will sometimes
with
a
worsted
or
10
TEXTILE
FIBRES,
thread
woollen
the
forming
dress
suiting,or
AND
THREADS,
TEXTURES.
of
texture
cloth, to give
This
effect.
neat
a
trousering,
a
might ultimately be cheapened, according to the
of
silk
spun
thread
in
There
the
to
materials
the
The
mungo."
being regulated by
A
Bradford
be
would
structure
of the
woollen
'"'
the
goods
shoddy"
"
or
of
form
some
mungo,"
good
the
and
for the
and
definite
class
of the
wools
using
cotton
weft ; the
more
way
with
used
produced.
cheapening would
proportionwarp
cloth.
'lustre"
be
worsted, woollen, silk,or linen figuringthreads
some
wool
the general
(e)or (/),
of the materials
for
for
or
of course,
shirtuigor
in
might
warp
of
combination
price obtained
the
weft
similar
texture
a
proportionof good wool,
fabric
combinations
and
"
weft
giving the characteristics
Other
thread,
:
''stuff," ''union"
composed
doubled
of warp
form
to
qualities,a
medium-priced
"
combination
a
qualitiesof
and
cotton
and
be
may
the
in
cotton
silk thread.
following,namely
loAver
Eor
be
also
of different
yarns
mixed
the real spun
place of
amount
used, by substitutinga mercerised
artificial silk
or
cloth
cotton
by using
mixed
in
threads,
expensive material,
of
FIBRES,
TEXTILE
will be less
material
methods
Other
given,but
of the
In
the
cheaper
exposed.
of combination
these should
for
cheapening might
suffice for the
enlightenment
reader.
kinds
some
Axminster,
of
carpets like Brussels,patent tapestry,
the
Wilton,
or
be
of
threads
may
different
parts of the fabric.
would
''
The
the
composing
worsted, linen, jute and
textures
"
11
TEXTURES.
being mostly prominent, whilst
course,
be
AND
THREADS,
for
cotton
"
of
pile
course
be worsted.
"'
All wool
"
all silk
or
class of fibre constituted
will be shown
"'
would
that
mean
the material, but
later,adulteration
"
by
other
no
then, as
even
''
filling can
take
place.
Again
"
flannels
"
are
is known
former
and
a
low
some
''
acknowledged
be
made
There
such
"
goods
K
or
"
Whilst
name
of
the
public
,
To
be neither
more
check the
application
imposition,,
guarantee of qualityis given
sale note
written
has
the
been
quarters by biassed
"
or
a
done, and such
fancy stripeare
flannelette
hoodwink
The
the
on
purchase of such
flannel."
this is not
refused.
Act.
that
see
deliverynote
as
all cotton.
in this direction for the
Marks
purchasersshould
the
and
which
flannelette,''
definitions would
room
of the Merchandise
on
''
unions
fraud.''
a
is much
to
purposely to
sale under
less than
nor
woollen
little better than
and
are
"
classes of
flannel
"
terms
twill
the
be
honestly produced
unmercifully traduced
in
individuals,goods tendered
without
''"
stripe
instead, the goods should
of
name
''
as
some
in the
guarantee have been entirely
r'i I
'".
12
FIBRES,
TEXTILE
overlooked
the
had
only
which
they
The
declared, according
it is
that
''
that
describing knitted
constantly
take
and
union
linen
the
"
so-called
direct
that
and
prepare
slightlyraise
"of
say
the
procedure.
flannel
Many
"
does
the author
"
"
becomes
sometimes
in smart
designs,are
itime
retailers
as
it
silk
"
of
"
as
is
not
from
goods."
to
"
low
some
need
few
loosely
afterwards
flannel."
such
"
a
less
Needmethod
flannel," but
"
almost
made
it
flannel
only
warp,
flannelette."
"artificial silk,"
being innocentlysold
'"'
linen,"
fibrous,for weft
advocate
not
articles for neckware,
by
sell it
Flannelette
''
rarely does
maker
cotton
a
cloth,then
sellingcotton
instructions
make
to
it with
Prosecutions
tor
"
for
which
indiscriminatelya
mix
to
"
wool
quality
flannelette
spin the thread
interweave
purposes,
to
"
for
fined
was
very
the
from
as
tweeds.
to
spurious
fibres in his cotton, with
stray wool
"
description
of
or
imprisoned
cotton.
named
"
all wool
natural
the
seller
spinner
1912,
been
of
above
a
flannels,"a
cotton
a
"
under
prosecuted. Judging
is
*'
exception
for
Donegal
as
cent
per
goods
Book"
as
place against retailers
light
to
come
60
also
manufacturer
a
goods
nearly
contained
has
"
goods
name
1893,
in
Furthermore,
Year
"
the
falsely attaching
with
''Wool
could
town
this
in
clothier has
a
had
they
blankets
Whitney
than
illegalto sell mixed
flannel," and
but
that
the
to
goods
otherwise.
anything
elsewhere
made
their
if
received
have
not
but, by doing
name,
profitableprices for
decided
which
law
be
not
be
to
have
makers, who
this
use
would
never
them
declared
to
obtained
have
they
so,
temerity
TEXTURES.
AND
benefit of such
the
to
TlHtEADS,
at the
present
OF
CHARACTERISTICS
CmEF
FIBRES
CHAPTER
Characteristics
Chief
Cotton.
hosiery
goods
Egyptian
or
Egyptian
what
a^re
bulk
of
known
the
Cotton
Indian
cotton
American
than
be
to
yarns,
It is
goods.
the
Under
like
is very
a
spiral tube.
valuable
and
fine and
for
harsh, and
coarse,
It is
form
and
coarse
and
rough
a
cheap
or
yarn
by
when
the
natural
dyed
long stapled
cotton
on
yarns
a
piece
are
fibre
collapsed
possesses
dyeing
wool.
disclose
the
a
perties,
pro-
Unripe
length,
themselves
of cloth.
often
rule.
wool, silk,
twistingin
they
lighterspecks
to
a
cotton
it
having good
different
as
thin
a
commodity
somewhat
possess
of
ribbon,
spun
low-priced
easily distinguishedfrom
characteristic
not
far less extent
a
coa^rse,
twisted
the
pliable.
very
to
for
constructed.
microscope the ordinary ripe
narrow
lor
of which
are
common
a
sometimes
in the
cotton
finest
used
are
yarns,
England
common,
though
fibres do
in
Sea
of
the
cotton
are
put into
As
linen.
is used
woven
substituted
fabrics
unadulterated
yarns
fine
and
of yarns.
spun
cotton
woven
be
of American
medium
as
and
lace
Sometimes
classes
some
for
long fibres
will
cotton
ordinary grades
The
or
in
cotton
Threads.
used
from
cottons.
American
of
grades
and
threads
cotton
chiefly produced
are
Islands
Fibres
threads
spun
sewing
yarns,
THREADS.
III.
of
finest
The
"
13
AND
used
The
in the
14
to
for
place
the
take
time
they
are
when
cloth, they
of time
to
PhysicalTest
when
for Cotton.
does
which
wool,
to
burning,
the
length
for any
inflammable
is very
it ; for this
it is inferior
reason
to
burn.
After
the
cotton.
Also
continue
good
one.
Cotton
cheap
in
comparison
a
and
it is useful
because
"
exposed
Cotton
"
not
is
microscopic test
the
substances
finishing
or
ash will be left from
white
a
"
put in during the
are
if
But
atmosphere.
lightis applied to
a
foreign
yarns
liable to mildew
moist
a
be stored
change.
any
"
the
sizing
are
"
with
salts, which
or
''
"
of
processes
undergoing
impregnated
like starch, gum,
handkerchiefs
Cotton'goodsmay
of linen.
without
long
a
THREADS.
AND
cambric
like
goods
fine
of
production
ilBRES
OF
CHARAeTERISTlCS
CHIEr
is
popular
other
to
textile fibres.
of
fibres
the
When
apart it will be found
fabrics
fibres of
The
remains
cotton
"
buying
''
in to
come
will be
made
the
adulterate
"
or
qualityof
sell at
sizing,"to
quality
is
also
a
lace
in
contrast
fixed
materials
at
fixed
despitethe high priceof
''
and
cotton.
persons
these
lead the retail
"
Sometimes
price.
two
price of
to
or
raw
previous
a
home
material,
woven
by unscrupulous
of
to
in the
customary
the
the
When
will be
addition
composed
be
to
in
yarns
best
threads.
cloth
waste
coarse
a
finest
it is
season,
the
reduce
from
high,
very
pulled
fibred
longest
together.
twisted
threads
more
are
and
found
be
will
above
the
fabric
a
the finest and
The
shortest.
the
of
thread
a
from
invariably that
finest
the
possess
thread
a
trade
to
to
make
an
attempt
to
it
excessively
times, by
buyers
to
believe
has
not
been
"
"
filling
that
the
reduced,
16
CHARACTERISTICS
CHIEF
the
produced exactly
price per piece, or
per
yard.
made
to
this,
the
about
sixpence
24 lbs.
about
extra
per
mean
an
With
IJd. per
at
cotton
the
than
"
the
When
extra
cost
quality is
20
This
selhng price
"
is
by
of the
retained
less in value
pence
of wider
has
high ruhng prices
with
found
be
piece length.
no
means
width
a
an
greater
might easilyoccur.
difference
will
would
cotton
the
same
goods
contains
halfpenny
a
raw
on
or
method
same
of cloth
higher,the
pence
With
view.
the
by
yards
pence
material.
coarser
exaggerated
30
"
be
piece length.
cotton,
be, if the
would
previouslymade
lb.
probably
the
on
price of
of 12
charge
extra
finer material
as
in the
lb. advance
extra
greater outlay of
on
unadulterated
of
as
greater
pence
would
finer material,
100
quality
to
halfpenny
one
charge
reasoning, assuming that
of
of
rate
interest
to the
respect
THREADS.
the least 50
at
at
AND
respect
cover
to
capital,perhaps
With
in
additional
An
FIBRES
same
become
previously,would
in
OF
that
of
wiU
kept
the
in the
occur
down
fore,
there-
cotton, it usuall}^
raw
with
tampering
greatest adulteration
be
to
quaUty
and
coarse
or
the
heavy
goods.
further
Without
might
added
be
with
is used
clothing or
Some
is used
dyed,
to
the
that
price
of the
very
and
in almost
domestic
woven
every
will
it
question,
also
ing
reason-
apply
to
material.
class of textile material
purposes.
popular
largelyare
in
this
principlesof
above
differences
textile fibres used
Cotton
for
here
respect
other
aU
unduly labouring
kinds
cotton
printed states
;
of
dress
goods
in which
goods,in
cotton
the bleached
sheetings,longcloths,Silesia
CHIEF
and
CHARACTERISTICS
ItaKan
with
FIBRES
woven
AND
dress
cretonnes,
linings,
coloured
lawns,
OF
17
THREADS.
cloths,and
blousings
lenos, cambrics,shirtings,
yarns,
voiles, handkerchiefs, mufflers, mushns,
cotton
cloths, flannelettes,brocades, awnings, cotton
oasement
velveteens, corduroys, and
fustians
generally, Bolton
sheetings, quiltings,toiletings,piques, towels,
damask
rspreads,tablecloths,
hambra
quilts,honeycomb
The
bulk
of
bleached,
dyed,
"
state, or
"
or
Eor
used
with
silk
now
being
introduced
ground
cotton
filUng"
in
is extensively
combination
cotton
other
would
of the fabric.
muslins
with
Swiss
spots of silk,or other material
lappets arc
as
for
the
to
a
hven
cotton
lappet
cheapen
cheap
silk,worsted,
to
up
the
kind
or
other
examples.
however,
yarn,
ornamentation
the
a
small
amount
of suitable
design
the
article.
have
ramie
on
is
of
a
cotton
colours
woven
texture.
"
UnUke
"
of
ground
spun
in the
matter.
instances
of mercerised
vestings of
dyed
these
in
known
used
mushn
"
also be cited.
mushns
large amount
loom.
"
by
effects also, cotton
figured cotton
in the form
A
Cotton
"
finished
extent
adulterated
the
spun), worsted, linen,ramie, and
of
may
Figured
'"
be
medium
a
in the construction
classes
introduced
of
with
Obviously
embroidery
to
showy
(raw and
predominate
cotton
"
also
either
are
leaving
previously mentioned,
as
materials.
Some
"
after
may
"
assisted
and
cheap
they
filled
heavily
goods produced
printed
or
curtains, al-
quilts,"c.
cotton
grey
this process
Dming
pure
cloths, lace
bed-
"
silk
goods," there
fabrics
by
names
is
no
attempt
to
designate
doubtfullysuggestive of
the
18
CHIEF
CHARACTEKISTICS
purity of
the
the cotton
silk
"
wool.
or
It
the
silk
That
might, however,
A
It
fiUing
would
Granted
this
the
give
"
sized
greater
"
the
used
are
for
for
that
made
up
with
are
to
be
then
large
the
heavy
in
such
"
"
wondered
is
shirts
at
take
mthout
worn
often
are
flannel
feels
so
should
"
worn
underwear
thick
a
and
person
never
these
of
purpose
of
jeans
and
slops.
yarns
heavy
is
be
fabrics
cotton
the
grandrelles." It
first
are
practice.
and
put into
people
heavily
holes, there may
overalls
Also
careless
fabric
"
fabrics
classes
some
to
feel,and
or
of the
some
it be
"
trade, is solelyfor the
as
"
Unless
Where
cotton
in
necessityto
this nefarious
in
"
often
the
handle
they drop
filHng
some
"
containing
washing.
?
filling
"
carrjdng on
belief that
the
of
a
money
purchaser.
process."
Moreover, the
because
why
workpeople's
shirtingsknown
in the
tiU
home
weaving
fact
be
some
"
fabrics
first
heavily finished
the
cases
many
"
the
however,
filling,"
used
twills
in
as
httle
the
seUing
Take, for example,
deceit.
costly
probably
"
cotton
the
better
a
in the
used
with
deceive
excuse
"
The
case,
fabric
often
washed, but
for
that
is the
the
and
would
simply
more
especiallyin
matter,
lose it after
fabric
thereby
the
contain
previouslymentioned
as
contended
"
adulterate
material
at.
be
might
THREADS.
being so cheap,
any
contain
handful
good
is aimed
cases
that
impression
of adulterated
materials.
AND
Cotton
goods.
will not
materials, and
amount
FIBRES
will be
"
cotton
as
correct.
as
in the
general impression
described
"
OF
In
before
coarse
well-known
a
fabrics
when
washing.
next
to
is not
heavy.
contract
the
skin,
necessary,
It is not
a
severe
the
have
In
cloth
the
"
the
"
would
whom
be
glad
carried
be
manufacturers,"
evils
if the
originated\\ith
The
stop
on
a,re
can
nuisance
and
for
better
quality
of
kind, although of
endurable
in
same
closer
The
buyers.
by insisting
kinds
Other
weaver,
An
to
prove
a
adulteration
without
higher price, would
stronger, and
of
majority
above, if bought in
woven
a
if
is not
respectively.
as
purpose
and
and
the
extent
washerwoman
article
any
the
It
?
dyer, sizer, maufacturer,
to
garment-maker,
on
goods.
cotton
for
Why
wearing.
merchants'
the
user
holes
into
abohshed.
were
certain
a
finished
having purely
a
it to
the
tendency
a
wear
before
out
malpractice has
public
is also
there
rotten," and
'"'
of
of
body.
overalls, wherever
deception
wishes
the
to
the
washed
is not
this
should
due
"
become
to
fiUing
then
to
heat
with
in contact
"3omes
absorbing moisture, part
slops and
the
regard to
fabric
of
characteristics
naturallywill get
which
the
weight
to
19
THREADS.
AND
ingredientsused
the
cold, because
FIBRES
OF
CHARACTERISTICS
CHIEF
be
be
the
more
cheapest
end.
the
Linen
is similar
to
flax
from
is spun
but
cotton,
fibres.
it
characteristics
In
tougher, though
stronger and
less elastic.
the
Under
thickened
one
microscope
parts
might
or
observe
knots
a
on
fibre
the
at
intervals, similar
bamboo
cane,
but
on
the
have
to
appears
to
what
scarcely
as
pronounced.
The
is
twisted
ribbon
absent, which
fibres
on
the
effect,as
makes
average
are
it
seen
cotton
fibre,
easily distinguishable.The
also much
longer
than
cotton.
20
CHARACTERISTICS
CHIEF
It is
supsrior to
It is also
doubt.
the
has
It
away
quickly,say
from
rapid
drier.
soft,is
not
has
application
of linen
if next
be
it.
use
of
be
for easy
one
in its
fine
gloss.
laundered
Even
The
Many
will
impart
The
material
the
to
up
linen
special^Preparationof
the
So
cloth.
far
still holds
For
are
often
used
for
some
of the
cotton
it will
be
constructed
linen towels
are
linty, and
or
towels
cotton
lint adheres
a
found
often
the lint will be left
hair
that
towel
on
for
to
stubby
cotton
fabric.
cotton
by
appearance,
linen
see,
materials.
bring
''
"
in the
drying glassutensils
with
person
can
in
well-
a
linen
a
to
standard
or
on
finishing
for
a
of
specificpurposes
superior position.
less fibrous
using
a
its
one
purposes
many
They
as
to
made
threads
merits-
awnings,,
cotton
on
richness
been
have
attempts
cannot
comfortable^
and
obtained
gloss
a
and
warm
beautifullywith
unobtainable
is
a
kerchief.
hand-
a
they
body.
"
finishes
permanent
linen
mangling
"
It
blindings.
It is
tablecloths,serviettes,
for
uses
fibre
fine texture
very
obtained,
parts of the
tender
the
consider
to
towelling, collars,cuffs, underlinen, buckram,
window
a.
transferring moisture
although some
can
be found
can
of
body
to
fine linen
to
without
absorbent
an
although it would
one,
desirable,and
a
THREADS
purposes
being
the
only
woollen
wdth
compare
some
merits
handkerchiefs
cotton
of
reputation
One
AND
costly.
more
the
A
for
cotton
still possesses
and
FIBRES
OF
preferredto
this
for
by using
after
the face.
"
As
In
the
the
on
an
case
face
of
also-
indifferently
washing,'" much
a
are^
much,
purposes
glass.
growth
reason
washing. When,
after
drying
the
cotton..
of
cheap substitute.
CHARACTERISTICS
CHIEF
the
however,
threads
with
is done
as
in
cotton, which
is
all linen
with
woven
than
better
dyed
often
is not
Linen
of the
than
latter.
the
This
used
is
to
pad
article.
The
In
qualitiesof
low
white
some
to
necessary
"
''
but
nevertheless
it
Physical Tests
when
behind.
in
feature
the
difference
fibres
also
are
in the
mixture
in the
and
is very
a
than
clear
leave
rule
ing
finish-
perceptible,
work.
when
burn
white
a
ash
Linen
test.
irregularin
more
threads.
to assist in
serve
This-
detecting
cloth.
into
woven
cotton.
when
"
cotton, it will
cotton
two
it is-
for certain
stronger when
straighterand
much
thread
sharp
snap
the
the
only
are
buckram
microscope
often
between
are
cheapen
to
buckram
also
as
are
may
The
greater
cotton
Like
"
longitudinallythan
separated
often
cloth
woven
a
remarkable
The
Linen.
also
is
wear
cloth
cotton
its purpose
answers
for
There
thickness
the
starch
light is applied, and
a
yarns
a
of
cotton
fabric, which
the
on
process
''
fabric
A
be much
in order
of
specimens
plaster
colours,
buckram.
linen
of the
imitations
poor
collar
faced
linen
a
strips
why
reason
one
of
stronger and
former, however, would
first cost
minimum.
disadvantage.
a
the
similarlyconstructed.
fabric
cotton
a
when
a
shades
fancy
will be
yarns
beat
to
the lint to
to reduce
2L
THREADS.
AND
hard
towellingis
cotton
suitablyspun
are
FIBRES
OF
threads
The
breaking
also
in the
them
fingers.
Hemp
flax
from
is also
which
The
similar
coarse
chief
uses
in its fibre characteristics
yarns,
to
similar
which
it is
to
to
jute, are
put
are
in
the
duced.
pro-
the
22
of
making
FIBRES
AND
cloths, Hessians, and
sail
THREADS.
ropes.
supplanted by jute, owing
is
hemp
cases
OF
CHARACTERISTICS
CHIEF
In
many
its
being
to
cheaper.
China
Ramie,
shades
delicate
Several
silk.
give
fibre
is of
a
made
greater
cost
such
with
As
specific purpose.
Jute
In
a
is also used
picking
prisoners
tendency
Wool
difiiculties
and
is
capable
cotton.
fibres
to
and
and
It
dye.
adoption
as
used
only
similar
rough
for
for
fibre
for
the
wearing
a
known
tramps
penalty
elastic.
Damp
is also
wool
about
wards.
of
inflicted
Jute
has
wet.
fibrous,
and
hygroscopic,i.e.,
It is very
one
The
oakum.
sometimes
when
is not
uses,
twine.
common
as
in casual
weakened
duction
pro-
exceptions.
and
ropes
some
household
or
the above
with
is
utilisingin
of water
absorbing a large amount
appearing damp.
to
with
nature
characteristically spongy,
of
have, up
textile materials
making
"
become
to
naturally curly
it is
for
oakum
of
substitute
to
other
quarters it is also
some
upon
rough
for
textures
valueless
practically
it is
with
bagging, mattings, carpetings, rugs,
as
woven
in
dyed
strong fibre.
very
flax, but
to
a.nd in combination
of
a
and
coarse
characteristics
purposes,
as
been
preparation process
It is
article.
commercial
Jute
a.
when
and
a
textures
woven
present time, prevented its extensive
the
""
The
it in its
dealing with
silk
yarns,
have
attempts
threads, produce
into
brilliancy comparable
a
materials.
it for linen
s"
finest
fibres to
similar
are
resembling
the
with
produced
are
spun
Effects
effect.
lustrous
of
when
other, which,
each
rhea
and
grass,
as
liable to
the
easiest
without
mildew
textile
24
such
figured dress
as
FIBRES
for the purposes
durable
more
OF
CHARACTERISTICS
CHIEF
coatings,"c.,
and
to which
kinds
some
of
such
silk
as
materials,
other
with
and
entirelydifferent
called
''
"
"
Camels'
and
hair
hair and
is
It
cotton.
or
the
production of
for
out,
largely
a
maniler
fabric
is
scarcelybe
can
belting.
is
kinds
many
latter
are
soft
very
lustrous, Scotch
and
wool
carpets.
suitable for flannels.
Shetland
for
used
for Scotch
Home-spun
as
be
long
m
British,cross-bred,meiinos,
as
tAVO
are
for
suitable
and
long
said to
and
spun
"c.
wools," there
The
and
coarse
in combination
carriageseatingcloth.
the
wool
staples,such
soft, and
yarns
to
"
to
English wool
is
are
plushesfor upholstery
preparing horse
hair is used
Botany.
rough,
wools
hair for hats.
regard
short
and
also
Horse
hair for carpets, rugs,
Rabbits'
In
merino
fibre.''
a
Cows'
of
applied in
it is
which
in
of
of
curtains.
and
manufacture
method
The
fine
cotton, for the production oi dress goods,
or
hangings,
in the
used
applied,
are
previously pointed
as
mantlings, braids, v^^rious kinds
work,
they
carpets.
clothinggenerally,and
for
used
THREADS.
goods, lustres, mantlings,
Alpaca hair, mohair, cashmere,
often
AND
useful
long but
Welsh
w^ool
w^ool is soft
Cheviot
knitting purposes.
wools.
wool
is
tweeds.
yarns
a
are,
domestic
fibrous, and
Irish homespun, Scotch
as
the
occupation.
of their
implies, woollen
name
They
natural
are
colour
homespun, Welsh
usually
such
as
homespun,
CHIEF
They
CHARACTERISTICS
however,
are,
"
sold
and
mixed
with
unless
out
smell
a
the
and
fibres.
or
microscope
When
horn
feathers
or
curly effect
Hairs
and
thread
and
in
is
gf cotton
pulling and
By
apart,
one
the
die
A
contact.
given off,and
silk will
pure
threads
staple
"
between
burnt
give the
end
same
a
fingersof
is
both
hands
the
to
ruptured
Silk.
fibres in the
obtained
to
thread
be
the
good,
few
a
''
tugging
qualityfrom
of
their
the
low
extremely weak,
being
very
short
and
thread
has
been
.
When
"
be found
of
"
and
elasticity. Some
owing
of
Also, by taking
weakness,
will
from
composed
indication
classes of threads
thread
a
idea
them, this will give some
strength,or
detect
even
fibres of
good
a
cloth
material.
can
in.
the
form
whether
the
one
mixed
withdrawing
indifferent
or
poor,
when
sometimes
can
"
length of
from
two
thrown,''
the
filament
the
cultivated
01
of
more
"
or
reeled
"
or
fine
long
cocoon
these
as
fine
together by
tioned,
previously men-
long
the
threads
silk
are
spinner
throwster.
In
"
pr
and
is left at the
carefullyburning them,
the presence
or
if
appearance
By minutely separatingthe fibres composing the
test.
"
is the
test
lightis applied to
a
light is constantly kept
bead-like
of thread
The
"
fibres.
resembling burnt
small
mechanically,
thread, it will gradually smoulder
or
25
THREADS.
distinguishits scaly
to
other
fibre
wool
AND
imitated
being
.
for Wool.
it is easy
as
now
FIBRES
homespuns."
as
Physical Test
best,
OF
this
tram
manner
''
gilk
the
are
various
qualitiesof
produced,
The
"
organzine
former, which
""
is
26
CHARACTERISTICS
CHIEF
OF
"
latter for
the
Under
like
microscope,
the rich lustre
reeled
The
net
or
used
goods
it will
Silk
plushes, velvets,
quality, bookmarks,
class
of
appearance
silk spots
quality
of
trimmings,
of
and
highgloves
amount
the
up
rich colours
general
good
a
on
coloured
neutral
linen
or
with
example, introducing
for
or
woollen,
cotton,
conjunction
smartening
as,
white
figuresin
or
wealthy.
materials
in
used
for
fabric,such
a
silk
pure
put into them.
expensive materials
other
for
goods.
of the
handkerchiefs,
silk is also
of
kind
This
is
that
of material
in
ribbons,
dress
parent,
trans-
lighttextures, considering the
of
being examples
ground.
woven
"
described
Goods
and
in warp
that
declare
silk and
''
will become
Goods
materials.
delivered
100
200
to
only one-third
yet be sold
often
and
crack
will
material
Such
are
after
a
Experts
cent.
per
adulterants, and
two-thirds
not
wool,
or
silk fabrics will contain
many
easilytear,
cotton
do
heavy weighted dyestuffs,both
weft, from
material.
although they
like
yarns
with
adulterated
often
all silk,"
as
textile
other
contain
and
and
and
expensive, and
reach
the
goods.
in silk
very
satins,
blouse
brocades, damasks,
silk
within
be
is
the
accounts
adulteration
from
when
only
This
obtained
silk
raw
fiee
alone
smooth
silk is very
shades
dyed
in
silk
weaving
for instance.
glassrod,
a
when
purposes
and
purposes,
warp
"
weft
THREADS.
''
"
for
stronger, is mainly used
AND
FIBRES
few
in
"
as
the
months
all
folds
storage
rotten.
described
During
before
the
"
as
the
silk
course
goods
of
an
"
are
often
mixed
interestinglecture
Royal Society of Arts,
Mr.
Frank
CHIEF
the
Warner,
president
Britain
and
of trade
terms
but
deception,
inferior
with
mixed
In
of silk warp
silk
"
to
and
silk
satin
weft
"^otton
the
of other
both
yarn,
"
of
"
made
is
"
"
composed
have
the
liningsmay
silk warp
a
a
and
silk."
which
have
Silk
with
sold
and
offered
are
composed entirely
are
mercerised
as
ot which
materials, Irish
backs.
cotton
silk
such
yarns,
silk
pure
weft.
happens that goods
name
their
"
of which
worsted
or
yet be called
and
in
undoubtedly
ot
or
of mixed
twill faced
or
''
heavily
plushes, providing they
have
It sometimes
under
''
goods
silk
or
pile,"may
of
yarns.
^\-oollen
velvets
be either
silk
pure
instanced, the material
poplins are
"
"
question
subtle
only
not
are
wearing qualitiesare
of all
other
regard
Silk
their
those
to
said,
he
Goods
silk fabrics.
applied to
of Great
the
detail
in
27
THREADS.
Silk Association
of the
Ireland, discussed
weighted dye,
AND
FIBRES
OF
CHARACTERISTICS
cotton
wood
or
brightnessand
pulp
glossiness
of silk.
The
opinion
in the
article is described
that
the
silk,that
article
Many
medium
in any
silk,the warp
externallyshould
Spun Silk, not
with
as
is free from
extensivelyused
is that
trade
excessive
being
for
fancy
woollen, worsted,
examples
class dress
may
goods
tennis, lounge, cricket
should
be
adulteration
coloured
or
be
and
and
cotton
found
blouse
as
where
an
be silk,and
wholly
expensive
so
case
mainly
or
in the
raw
designs in
dye.
silk,
is
tion
combina-
threads.
among
light
and
materials, shirtings,
boating shirts, sleeping
suits, Ceylon flannels,trimmings, high-class cashmere
shirtingsand
tunics, mufflers,
gentlemen's vestings,
28
CHARACTERISTICS
CHIEr
OF
FIBRES
THREADS.
AND
high-class suitings, trouserings,and
fancy
hosiery
goods.
main
The
the
large quantity of
A
a
used
dyed
shades.
used
for
"
Tussah
the
"
"
goods.
"folded,''
in
varietyof
a
"
folded
are
yarns
purposes,
such
as
made
are
the
silk
from
usually being composed
silkworm,
"
the
distinguishedfrom
silks," as
spun
similar
a
silk threads."
raw
silk fabrics
wild
"
the
embroidery
place of
Tussore
or
of
the
of
in
in
or
above
as
cases
and
sewing
filoselle
threads
other
smarten
class
"doubled"
purposes
In
above
silk,after being produced in
spun
warp
to
design
or
"
"
for
the
be
to
silk in better
net
is afterwards
singlethread,
and
"
for
mentioned
found
in effect
generalappearance
manner
under
introducing it
invariablybe
will
circumstances
up
in
object
net
silks."
raw
difference in
The
and
mercerised
to be the
Where
cotton
cheapness
supplanted
instances
the
in
appearance,
It
is
a
very
and
"
spun
the
British
a
been
very
home
"
yarns,
for
a
better
texture
to
detect.
cotton
whilst
yarns
in other
used.
waste
weak
people
woven
difficult
silk
common
occassionally used
in
in
essential,mercerised
artificialsilk has
Silk Noil is
used
is
many
imposture, because
avoid
more
silks
suggests
once
materials
is
yarn
at
"
"spun
the other.
from
tellingone
other
with
with
appear
identification, to
mixed
mercerised
have
of
only means
for
means
when
would
cottons
uncertainty, therefore,
This
between
pricessometimes
spun
yarn,
rough
considering its density.
introducing
trade
for
low
into
materials
class woollen
OF
CHARACTEmSTICS
CHIEF
It is
goods.
extensivelyused
is the
same
"
"
silk
bead-like
and
curl
is absent.
The
but
sometimes
one
artificial silk.
when
without
or
mineral
ash.
The
decided
an
microscope
"
much
twist
"
silk will be
Spun
pure
good
a
with
confused
silk thread
the
clingto
also
are
form
are
fingers
number
a
singlethread
a
this
them,
in
the
by
is also
test
the
in
there
when
off
become
might
running together to
silk.
net
the
given
filaments
pulling apart,
filaments
smell
applied
exceedinglylong, and
fine and
very
of
If the
of
form
pungent
silk test
one,
test
or
weighting
filling
with
been
light has
will be left in the
matter
burning
silk the
pure
is adulterated
the
markets.
African
for wool.
given
after
matter,
"
as
It the
For
for Silk.
threads, for dyed
coarse
for the West
brightstripedcolours
PhysicalTest
in
2^
THREADS.
AND
FIBRES
will be
pure
of
short
composed
raw
silk
fibres.
ArtificialSilk made
is
from
for
extensivelyused
in which
trimmings
the
hard
strength or
wood
pulp and
wear
introduce
it into
combination
silk
spun
ground
be
"
used
mercerised
Pulp
heavy
them
cotton
a
as
yarns
figuredeffects
made
materials
blouse
light wearing
collar
and
being
now
are
substitute
in
for
cotton
woven
on
as
textures.
Wood
of
with
or
fabrics,
woven
hats, ribbons, braids, neck
for
materials
required,such
is not
ties, rosettes, fringes. Attempts
to
of
making
other
are
and
Paper
materials.
looselyand
for
The
Yarns
yarns
used
are
"
if
in the
one
coarsely constructed.
mattings, bagging,
canvas
may
making
so
They
term
may
cloths, light
30
CHARACTEHISTICS
CHIEF
hand
c",rpetings,
men's
as
which
fabric
during
There
regained.
the
known.
use
ot
these
AND
been
time
it
is
however,
will
probably
materials
When
as
their
dry
be
merits
them.
are
weaken
temporarily
wet.
such
from
produced
to
appears
THREADS.
materials
wearing
properties,
feature
the
FIBRES
even
have
absorbent
water
great,
and
bags,
suitings
Their
is
OF
the
wider
the
strength
scope
become
very
for
better
32
WEAVING.
The
threads
warp
the
of
the purpose
For
"
with
case
adulterated
"
is not
of
and
The
the
the
between
will be
as
the
heavily finished
"
by
the total number
selvedges and
two
their
that
which
2.
is considered
the
be
to
most
convenient.
sides and
fabric
also
but
in
each
colour
side of
cloth
a
and
generally,not only in
the
processes
finishing.They
printing,or
different
fine
for
fabric.
on
selvedge or listing
loom,
"
or
cloth is determined
a
length is
useful
excessive,
"
sized
Fig.
The
threads.
slightly sized,''even
are
heavily
in the
closeness
weft
in the operation of weaving,
a,ssisting
sizing
threads
warp
the
goods.
width
The
"
the
than
twisted,
''
threads
warp
goods, but
of
material
of better
and
usually stronger, harder
are
to the
body
of
often
protects
out
of the
bleaching, dyeing,
will
made
be
of the cloth and
with
of
a
stronger
threads.
Quality."The
weft
and
way
factors
in
the
of threads
number
thickness
determining
the
of the
per
inch
threads
are
warp
and
the
chief
comparative strength
and
33
WEAVING.
qualityof
of which
it is constructed.
material
used
the
quahty
By
of
which
"
would
be
to
on
in
the
will
be
obtained.
threads
warp
threads
be
retained
a
But
obtained.
if
the total threads
or
the
stronger fabric would
remarks
of
thickness
The
its
"
will
or
"
used,
varietyof
a
also
of
but
finer
would
fabric
apply
again
used,
were
the
or
heavier
and
closeness
and
a
the
to
respectively.
yarns
fineness
of
in
the
picks,"and
closeness
regulatedand
steel comb
thread
a
is
spoken of
is
cloth
of
threads
determined
by
of the
in
a
the
frame
weft
"
as
and
threads
motion
on
particularmanner
the
"
"
warp
of the yarns
produced.
cloth
the
in
reed,"
mechanically regulated and
"
be
qualities
may
warp
enclosed
proportion of
in the thicknesses
the
closeness
take-up
The
number
produced.
re-arrangement
a
and
cloth
width,
strength
counts."
threads
The
be
picks and
thickness
By
The
the
threads
coarser
in
same
weaker
width
same
the
put closer together,then
were
These
in
and
hghter
"
loom.
for
If, however,
were
used,
threads
"
for the
reduced
are
warp
cloth
coiled sheet of threads
reduced
are
warp
length,and
definite
a
broad
a
ready
beam,
per inch
weavers'
to
the
of
quahty
cloth,a hghter fabric by weight and weaker
of
a
constitute
not
warping,"
according to
parallelorder
weavers'
a
"
called
process
togetherin
run
If the threads
in
a
vary
run
afterwards
do
of cloth.
means
threads
thickness, closeness,or
The
selvedgethreads
in the
of the material
the value
of
cloth,irrespective
a
is Hke
which
fixed in the
"
or
picks
determined
is
"
loom.
in the
by
a
loom.
in
which
the
warp
threads
S4
WEAVlNa.
with
shall interlace
"
"
tappets
for
for
similar
eyes
in the
in
reed
a
For
"
drawoi
the
healds, and
for
the
the
"
in
healds
"
by
pattern-
dobby
machine
weavers'
beam
"
passed through
the
are
passed through looped
or
then
previously to
loom
the
from
threads
w^arp
individually
beam
warp
taken
being
"
dents
to
weaving.
floral
of
production
other
or
ornamental
designs like brocades, damasks, tapestries,"c.,
woven
the
with
The
would
machine
Jacquard
the
plain cloth
caHco
or
'"
needle
is
is the
weave
"
of
healds
"
as
The
"
"
warp
It may
weave
"
threads
be
pick
with
for
taken
is
a
and
it mechanically.
"
a
plain
the hand
and
with
a
series of
of
as
Any
way.
is called
way,
warp
{b)is
particularsystem
the
plain cloth will be
for
means
tappets.''
weft
two
the
weaving cloth,
in combination
by
or
interlacingwarp
of
automaticallycontrolled by
actuated
weft
common
sets
by
when
Referringto Fig. 1, (a)is spoken
of
most
''
darning
in this instance
shuttle
of threads
spoken
conjunction
required to produce
mechanically performed
movements
"
be
is done
What
the weaver's
by
in
employed
interlacing.Two
method
common
weave.
of
would
healds
aforesaid
The
be
loom.
simplest method
and
two
"
or
weaves,
to
weave,"
operated upon
are
common
"
a
figuredwork.
The
of
form
to
as
designis effected by
other
plainor
mechanism
producing
of
so
heddles," which, in their turn,
or
"
weft
definite
produce some
to
or
the
"
seen
weave."
to
be
on
sets
or
picks.
granted
that
as
many
35
WEAVING.
of healds
shafts
there
design as
with
will be
weft
required to produce
distinct
are
of
interlacings
twill
Three
weave.
distinct
Fig.
of
threads
warp
the
tw^o
cloth
surface.
picks and
under
form
The
one
and
one
It would
shows
a
be
interlacingwarp
This
givesa
ribbed
threads.
diagonal
of
four-end
called
"
a
with
weft
"
shown
Hne
The
twill
or
is
interlacing
over
4.
a
termed
or
three-
a
repeatedly.
weft, sometimes
also
a
weft
manner
for
weave
represents
3.
Fig.
Fig. 4
or
threads
warp
positions are
interlacingwith
intersections
consecutive
on
weave
threads.
Take, for example, Fig. 3, which
end
a
warp
is
twilled
'"
a
twill three
Florentine
twill."
also
in
The
warp,
twill."
order
diagonal
"
appearance
on
the
of
form.
cloth
36
WEAVING.
It will be
surface.
threads
interlace
threads
or
three
"
weft
four-end
is, the
the
weaving
threads
weft
and
of
twill w^ould
surface
"
method
twill."
both
5.
Fig.
6.
This
warp
sides of the
in the
as
passes
weft
over
repeatedly.
one
threads
A
above, that
to
reverse
interweaving
Fig.
as
called
irregularweave,
Fig. 5,
of
The
fifth
form
would
fabric.
picks," kno^vn
re-arrangement
weave.
the
be
of the
twill, sometimes
equally on
a
thread
warp
underneath
and
is another
sheeting
An
Each
fifth warp
first and
greater portion of the weft
Fig. 5
"
threads
first and
every
also, the
ahke,
picks."
weft
that
seen
a
"
a
two
weft
warp
and
twill
threads
two
"
or
float
cloth.
Fig. 6,
may
interlacingof
is sometimes
four
warp
Harvard
and
on
termed
be
produced by
the
warp
"
^
threads
stockinette
"
37
WEAVING.
''
A
satinette
the
"
"
would
weave
threads
warp
of
be
Fig. 4
obtained
in
by
similar
a
ing
re-arrang-
ordei
to
the
stockinette."
Sateens.
five
on
The
"
threads
four-fifths
show
fabric, and
and
of the
Fig. 18,
of
thus
"
the
on
weft
"
would
the surface
threads
hiding the
produced
sateen
warp
threads
warp
cloth is
sateen
A
picks.
four-fifths
and
Fig. 7a
cotton
common
weft
of the
behind,
except
at
as
the
intersectingpoints. Fig. 7a diagrammatically illustrates
the
weave.
"
A
weft
"
sateen
would
show
Fig. 7,
thus
intersectingpoint.
The
behind,
A
by
surface
cloth
and
as
"
sateen
warp
"
threads
form
to
weft
"
sateen
picks
"
"
will be
than
"
much
the
texture
will be
twilled
the
stronger in that directioA,
in
will
than
the
"
warp
get
a
smooth
"
effect.
closer in the
that
stronger in
closer
to
the
at
except
interlacingpoints,
the
common
threads
warp
warp
object sought is
will be
therefore
threads, and
the
hiding
distributing
destroying the
so
the
of
four-fifths
and
surface
the
weft
7.
Fig.
on
four-fifths of the
''
weft
be
"
the
warp
weft
A
direction.
threads
threads,"
and
"
or
also
38
WEAVING.
in
shown
as
will
It
number
apphed
noticed
be
"
silk
and
the
and
I
2
in
maimer
threads
warp
comprise
2"
5
^
of
is the
threads
"
term
method
same
of
same
usually
interlacing.
be Used."
standard
as
t^^^^
^
1^^^^^
t^^^
i^^^-^
t^^^^
rf
VMA
fc
3i:
imA
^
i^^-^-^-^-i
ff:
VMi
WM
l^^MA-
/
5
^
2"
2
the
of
structure
J
I
is
may
foundation
the
"
considered
be
may
the
ment
commence-
satin
Foregoing Weaves
preceding examples
weaves,
the
recurrence
weft
for the
goods
How
and
When
the
that
repetition." The
a
to
with
interlace
the
Fig. 7.
oppositewarp
of
The
threads
the weft
which
illustrates
diagrammatically
7b
Fig.
^
"^^:^SL
mwT
5
Fig.
majority
of
7a.
Fig.
fabrics, either
woven
with
in combination
or
and
othei
cloth
a
is wanted
limit, however,
sufficientlyclose
some
other
intersections
given
number
of
is reached
possible to
weave
;
in
the
form
produce figured
will then
warp
of
be
weight, but
interweaving is
a
plain cloth,
warp
consequently
method
of
in
hght
structure, the plain method
to
to
weaves,
simple
stripeddesigns.
When
not
in their
7b.
threads
weaving.
reduced
in
threads
and
The
used.
when
A
it is
and
must
recourse
of firm
picks
be
number
proportion
to
had
of
the
picks, thereby
40
WEAVING.
the
together. Accordingly,with
five thread
the
sateens
be
can
above
five.
greater the
of
warp
weaving
in
when
attempting
kinds
A
few
"
the
and
simple
block
prints,Figs
The
face
side
opposite direction
Fig.
"
11.
"
Fig. 12.
"
Zephyr
Repp
and
"
Fig.
13.
"
"
Oxford
14.
"
of
the
utilising
in the
the
for
weave
ground
ground
Taped
"
"
fancy
in
run
coloured
cord
"
twill
end
Three
ground,
with
weave,
stripe.
"
stitch
"
Stripe
lines.
weave.
Matting Stripe -Taped ground with
for fancy stripe.
Galatea
the
18.
to
with
weave
Plain
"
10
Figs.
travel is
goods.
worsted
ground
Striped Shirting
Coloured
following
to
It will
Prints,
Weave
Poplin
stitch
weave
Fig.
Block
Plain
Stripe
Handbook.''
the twill is shown
for woollen
to
or
description
cloths.
References
Fig. 10.
cloth
and
cotton
of
recognisable
18.
in which
direction
for the
10 to
weaves
operations.
shown
are
The
finishing
methods
previouslymentioned
weaves
of
not
Weavers'
common
closeness
''
weaves
Cotton
in
the
are
"
"
of
examples
in
"
the
resistance
cloth.
a
goods
millingand
the
undergoing
given
are
woollen
of
in
threads
weft
or
the
increase
to
that
intersectingpoints
will be
less
of threads
obvious
the
between
intervals
weft, the
Further
number
any
on
Although
mostly used, other
one
will, therefore, be
with
many
after
also
produced
It
threads
warp
is the
sateen
it would
weave
fabric.
heaviest
the
possibleto produce
be
sateen
with
"
stitching
threads.
Fig.
15.
Fig. 16.
"
"
Striped Drill
Harvard
or
Sometimes
Fig. 17.
Fig. 18.
"
"
"
Two
and
called
Figured Harvard
figuring threads.
Warp
end
Three
twill
Two
weave.
Twill
"cassimere"
Twill
StripedSateen
"
"
Four
"
Four
end
twill.
ground
with
twill.
end
^Fiyp end
twill
brokerx
twill,
41
WEAVING.
7
^^
'"
f,
5
I
Fig.
10.
Fig.
11.
J
m
Fig.
12.
42
WEAVING.
Fig.
13.
Fig.
14,
Fig.
15.
43
WEAVING.
Fig.
16.
Fig.
17.
Fig.
18.
44
HGtmED
FABRICS.
CHAPTER
Figured
Extra
When
of
"
being produced
and
warp
Fabrics.
Figured Cloths.
Warp
mentioned
V.
weft,
one
figuringthreads
ornamentation
afterwards
ground
or
on
allowed
cloth
figuredcloths.
other
to
"
one
singlecloths."
of
for the purpose
plain ground
a
structural
looselyor
structure, they
of
19.
ground
lie
combination
as
surface
Fig.
structure,
a
previous examples
introduced
are
the
on
from
known
are
^All
are
and
weaves,
float underneath
called
''
extra
the
"
warp
FIGURED
Fig.19
author
in
is
example
an
this
the
plainground
Similar
weft
weft
it will
required,
not
be
pass
that
seen
the
the
underneath
structure.
of the
figures. The
produced by
figuredcloth produced by
a
where
when
figuresto
instead
of
manner,
figure threads,
45
FABRICS.
means
these
warp,
most
of
are
sometimes
and
are
Fig.
20.
Fig.
21.
elaborate
the
extra
then
formed
known
the
with
as
extra
effects,however,
warp
effects.
It
are
is
FABRICS.
BlGtrHEl)
46
also
a
of
cheaper way
than
by
extra
weft.
often
be
found
in
figured cloths
producing fancy
of
Examples
weaving
such
may
high-classfancy gentlemen'sshirtings
ties, ladies' blousings, dress
and
ribbons.
materials, trimmings,
and
'.?*?"V
Fig.
Figs. 20
and
figuredcloths
also
another
21
on
which
interwoven
a
fancy
Lappet Figured
in
are
the
further
22.
examples
plain ground
woven
Muslins
the
"
"
extra
warp
Fig. 21
structure.
has
stripe introduced.
can
be identified
figuring threads
with
of
ground
"
or
structure
by
whip
of
the method
"
yarns
the
are
fabric.
48
FIGURED
of
a
Fig.
23
"
or
shows
"
is often
yarn,"
posed
com-
cerised
"mer-
silk."
spun
of extra
example
an
yarn
"cotton
of folded
good quahty
cotton,"
.
lappet "whip
The
weaving loom.
FABRICS
figureand
warp
lappet combined.
Swivel figures. High-classcloths
"
with
from
the
lappet
into
a
extra
or
ground
of weft
independent
structure
The
bulk
be
figurewill
body
or
the
from
away.
idle
each
the
shuttle
This
found
are
material
in
this
figures. In
extra
weft
small
by
have
to
its
short
OA^n
pick
pick forming the ground
of the fabric.
figure is required
remain
guished
easilydistin-
24.
to the weft
figurethreads
of
are
cloth structure.
Fig.
Each
ornamented
often
warp
with
interwoven
stylethe figureis
shuttles
figureswhich
spots and
swivel
are
well
being
in
the
loom,
bound
space
joiningthe
is rather
an
cloth, the
the surface.
on
and
into the
Where
between, the
shuttles
the
single swivel
swivel
figuresis
expensive method
of
no
thread
often
cut
producmg
figures,but
is very
49
FABRICS.
FIGURED
effective
obtaining good
for
pleasing designs in good qualitiesof
Many
examples
ladies'
and
required on
a
is
on
woven
a
Swiss embroidery,or
form
of spots and
the
the yarn
that
material
cloth
the
for
a
which
a
kind
"
spot
after
an
-
cloths in the
have
blance
resem-
a
the
of
a
the
inner
In
found
work
have
both
cloths
lappet
elaborate
the
and
cloth
artistic
which
edging
of
and
embroidery
may
small
embroidery
the
making
pattern.
more
of Swiss
of
amount
specialembroidery machine,
of
of Swiss
equal
an
cloth, thus
the
the
it will be
side, therefore
one
showing
between
difference
be
blouses, lightunderskirts, and
robes, which
manner
they
spots solid.
on
combination
This
for
by
of
the
shows
reversible
is done
muslin
means
swivel
muslin
on
the spots has
sides
reversible, and
suggests
''
a
embroidery spot
forming
both
on
distinct
a
Figured embroidery
kind
this
By
embroidery, is
Sometimes
sprigs.
Swiss
figureonly
is not
figure is
structure.
machine
is, however,
In
two.
silk
lappet spots.
to
There
a
of
weaving, often produced
of
process
goods
is avoided.
material
plainground
woven
fabric.
illustration
simple
a
silk
where
worsted
or
expensive silk
24
Fig.
cotton
materials.
woven
in
found
Also
trimmings.
a
of
waste
be
may
and
and
design
found
robes
floral
work.
needleladies'
on
and
flounces
figuresafter
the
perforated designs in
is stitched
round
like
needlework.
Ordinary fancy
practised
as
canvas
domestic
embroidery
occupations, are
and
so
crewel
well
work
known
50
FABRICS.
nGURED
be
readily
will
they
that
from
distinguished
the
mentioned
afore-
examples.
curtains
Madras
of
extra
an
form
not
nearest
The
alloAVS
fabric,
action
Where
thread.
will
they
points.
intersecting
be
the
twisted
it
to
withstanding
might
of
weave
weft
be
fine
threads
do
between
loosely
The
each
their
material
loose
two
will
waste.
as
away
figuring
thereby
that
cut
or
gauze
lie
weft
a
insertion
between
thick
the
is
the
by
weft
Jacquard
a
structure
produced
of
thread
figures
afterwards
is
of
means
ground
open
figure
coarse
weft
ground
the
and
weave,
gauze
The
loom.
and
machine
by
produced
are
subject
be
the
firmly
any
to.
ground
structure
into
bound
w^earing
or
the
pulling
51
FABRICS.
PILE
VI.
CHAPTER
Pile
Pile fabrics
in
threads
'*
"
flushings
constructed
cut
loops
produced
are
additional
varietyof
to class
the
to
"
backing
with
cloth
ground
''
fustians
fibres
massed
''
''
or
threads
warp
The
largest
trade
belong
structure.
plain
backing
"
is cut
short
closelyset
or
classes
"
"
tabby
or
and
sheared
of
in the
the
to
flushing threads
method
"
ground
"
Jeanette
to
structure.
of
structure
good ''backing.''
a
varies, such
interlacing
of
back,
cloth
ground
intact,thus forming
the fabric remains
"
"
float
cutting operation the
the
During
other
various
thereby allowing the firmly interwoven
right angles
at
''
the
instances
after processes,
"
pile
warp
pile
(b)
examples.
are
In these
The
"
would
fabric,
"
the
firmly
a
the
to
or
(a).
Velveteens, corduroys, and
issue
''
"
^which
"
latter
in the cotton
cloths made
pile
floats
on
The
to form
special
"
pile
to, and
texture.
threads
the
in which
"
good
a
(a) Those
:
w^eft threads
the
with
ground
"
the
additional
"
woven
invariablyform
Those
form
to
produced
are
afterwards
are
distinct kinds, viz.
of two
are
the
which
Fabkics.
"
back, "Genoa
as
'*
back, "c.
In
respect
"
pile
to
trimmings
velvet face, they may
of silk warp
threads
and
and
have
cotton
ribbons
a
satin
weft
with
back
threads.
"
a
silk
composed
52
FABRICS.
PILE
both
pilefabrics comprise
Warp
turkish
pile," like
pile velvets, ribbons,
(d)
and
"
like warp
pile
cut
carpets,
pile plushes, made
warp
silk,mohair, "c.
from
closeness
the
''
length of
The
according
to
terry
velvet, and
quality
of wires
of
pile
"
fabric
uncut
"loop pile"
and
"
shown
pile
would
How
TO
principleof
are
loop being
cut.
"
loop pile
may
be formed
warp
drawn
with
"
some
cut
the
on
as
same
desired.
"
the
where
indicates
Fig. 25
on
loop
be cut.
a
few
"
picks
separately from
"
pile
threads
Q.fthe drawn
Pile
Warp
"
Cut
prom
Pile."
Weft
pile,"when
out
"
Cut
Distinguish
''
bits of
means
construction
pile fabric,one
warp
''
If
Utrecht
on
"
*'
the other
and
uncut
cross
"
the
and
25.
fabric, by using cuttingand non-cuttingwires
The
vary
produced.
fabric
the
on
the
in section
shows
ordinary wire
Cut
the
will
being inserted during the weaving operation.
Fig. 25
shown
threads
carpets is produced by
of
Fig.
an
together with
the
"
The
quality.
kinds
loop pile
of
the
many
''
"
or
thickness
will be its
better
"
and
Usually, the longer the
for
"
uncut
or
terry towels, Brussels
or
patent tapestry carpets, and
silk
"
(c) loop
are
shown
the
"
or
weft
threads
fabric, the
loose
entangled or looped
weft threads,
For
experiment
silk
common
a
drawing
By
attached.
In
possible
the
"
by
for
Silk
velvets
If
"
pile,"
weft
described
as
would
be
the
among
a
rule,
warp
pile
The
identified
''
of
that
have
round,
round
the
in
the
a
weft
as
a
weft
pile
"
cut
as
in
be
described
entangled.
which
is
this
manner.
thread,
pile
the
for
''
all
left
separately,
weft
to
thread,
would
warp
manner
velveteen,
common
alternate
of
similar
"
withdrawn
are
every
bits
weft
"
pile
cut
loosely
threads
threads
"
of
pile
wires
withdrawn
are
drawn
weft
cut
the
surface.
bits
the
warp
warp
found
will
looped
or
few
a
be
will
bits
remaining
If, however,
it
round
of
"
pile
warp
velvet
the
have
"
threads
weft
pile,"
warp
looped
the
of
many
the
is
manner.
with
the
it
to
withdrawal
forms
"
for
not
when
aforesaid
The
thereby
pile/'
withdrawn
produced
wires.
and
loops
is
"
pile
warp
warp
that
often
are
looping
of
the
"
alternate
"
the
in
cut
taken.
selvedge
each
''
of
woven
thread
weft
attached
bits
bits
closely
very
every
loose
means
cuts
a
from
invariably
loose
the
be
may
separately
that
seen
have
will
thread
weft
be
it will
selvedge,
to
threads
weft
the
ribbon
trimming
velvet
out
53
FABRICS.
PILE
"
bits
warp
attached
of
looped
pile.
"
cotton
as
will
be
54
COMPOUND
FABRICS.
CHAPTER
VII.
CoiviPOUND
fabrics embrace
Compound
in which
fabrics
have
"
"
to the
weave
backed
The
would
have
other
which
might
serve
be either
hidden
for
between, like
example,
warps
silk.
would
be the
Some
similar
and
in which
reverse,
of the
to
fabrics
Fig. 27
would
both
lining.''
warp-faced,
fabric
might
(6) the
method
be
in
this
satin
the
the
construction
name.
and
manner
be reversible,such
weft
ribbon,
and
cotton
of
suggested by
made
the
sides and
warp-faced
the weft
as
a
(a) Double
on
double
class
For
''
as
that is,for class (a)the
;
a
different
a
26.
surface
warp
of
"
backed
as
often
is
other
any
"
knoAvn
fabric
weft-faced
a
by
of the
fabrics may
{b) double
construction
side
Fig.
or
their
of cloths
part in their
unobtainable
kinds
simpler
one
in
classes
take
weft
or
warp
fabric
heavy
a
The
method.
one
all those
objects sought
The
produce
to
than
more
texture.
Fabrics.
as
also
golfcapes
travellingrugs.
Fig. 26,
Handbook,"
double
which
is taken
from
illustrates,in
weft-faced
fabric.
the
section
The
face
"
Weavers'
Cotton
for
would
two
be
picks,
a
called
a
56
FABRICS.
COMPOUND
hose
of
examples
Mechanically
and
other
tion
Weavers'
taken.
of
and
three
all
four
Handbook,''
ladder
ply
fabrics.
fabrics.
of
these
from
tapes
satin
fabrics,
fabrics
woven
compound
classes
blind
tapestry
woven
figured
of
examples
Venetian
and
piping,
belting,
heavy
fabrics,
tubular
Reversible
are
For
fabrics
which
toilet
'*
Fig.
quilts,
elaborate
detailed
see
other
are
more
a
woven
descrip
The
27
Cotton
has
been
57
TAPESTRIES.
CHAPTER
VIII.
Tapestries.
The
tapestries, usually depicting historical,
real
scripturalevents
or
allegorical,
They
the
on
costly
are
and
usually wool,
cotton
"
the
part of both
of
be
will
warp
of
the insertion
the
used, but
''
a
skill
or
form
the
obtained
are
in wool
colours
weft
is
warp
linen
figures to
cartoon,"
of
multiplicity
a
The
artist.
colour, sometimes
one
hand.
by
require great
and
weaver
from
design ," worked
and
produce,
to
made
are
by
and
silk.
The
the
separately with
the part of the
are
works
art
treasures
Great
In
of
Britain
Great
and
on
Britain
Hall,
Albert
Museum,
of such
examples.
French
works
Government
pictures.
in
completed
halls and
of
also
Gobelins
''
weave
products
seen
as
both
in
Castle,
Victoria
still bear
and
and
\^'itness
tapestries by the
splendid examples
drajJery,hangings,
on
Europe.
and
Palace,
furnish
be
may
Court, Windsor
Kensington,
the
the
mansions
of
Continent
Hampton
South
productions
of art
"
the
Holyrood
Haddon
The
old
in many
plain
wefts
manipulation
examples
old
Fine
art.
careful
When
weaver.
"
in
threads
warp
great patience and
calls forth
variouslycoloured
of the
interlacingby hand
as
upholsteriesand
58
TAPESTRIES
and
costly
is
class
this
Although
it therefore
tapestry is still produced, it
of
considered
be
cannot
popular
a
as
wealthy
the
of
reach
the
within
only
COMMERCE.
OF
;
mercial
com-
product.
Tapestries
a
tapestries
Jacquard machine,
weaving machinery
that
by
imitated
coloured
designs
of
and
waste
no
of
a
on
warp
which
if it is
a
it therefore
way,
threads
warp
which
interferingwith
lie
loosely and
the
face
threads
of fabric
to
weft
form
either
a
hidden
between
or
from
the
weft
not
with
in
with
some
other
the fabric without
else it is allowed
in those
form
to
be used
in
the
warp
pattern,
fabric.
''
a
to
behind
threads
again
interweave
may
of
the
selvedge to selvedge of
colours which
width
with
other
until it is inserted
by
interlace
dealt
backing to
pattern,
it must
inserted
interweave
the face
which
in its passage
The
must
be
to
the
latter
entire
portion of
That
pattern has
form
the
across
the
restriction,
the
in
and
of short
insertion
without
only required to
threads.
few
required to
pass
"
former
automatically
is
The
frame
the
the
material
weft
be
looms.
hand
in
that
produced by
shuttle, must
fabric, even
is
"
old
the
of
high stage
a
weaving
power
power
tapestriesmay
material, whereas
of
weft,
coloured
means
are
coloured
lengths
the
or
mechanism
such
old
of
of
means
hand
a
the
reached
tapestry
woven
either
to
now
between
distinct difference
machine
has
imitations
are
perfection in
of
means
commerce
produced by
on
examples
fine
many
of
are
fitted
The
loom.
weaving
and
kind,
above
the
of
"
"
so-called
The
Commerce.
of
power
-loom
Tapestries
''
tapestry therefore
woven
hand
old
the
to
colours, however, required
put in the
are
is obtained
scope
produced
hence
commercial
offered
cloths, pictures, table
with
and
colours
few
a
Others
colours
of weft
four
"
colour
in both
"
termed
warp
the
"
*'
"
a
and
reverse,
of
or
methods
are
woven
"
nature,
and
several
two
to
(from
nature
of
spoken
those
as
The
one
weft
known
cotton
two,
one,
best
which
have
six).
three,
loom
power
colours
many
in the weft.
colour
and
cloths,
floaty
of warp
colours, known
weft
coloured
warp
silk,w^orsted, woollen,
two
colours
"
a
colour
one
"
are
the
tapestry,''
colours
sideboard
holstery
up-
tapestry.''
of
warp
floaty
a
cloths
weft
spreads;
bed-
covers,
variety of
a
as
tapestries,"c.
the warp
the
If two
',
of
tapestries produced by
weft
and
only
tapestriesare
tapestry
In
of
market.
of weft.
will have
Sometimes
or
in the
colour
only one
many
imitation
tapestry cloths
imitation
common
competition,
the
in
mats,
evidence
designatesuch productions
Some
article
An
borderings, tablecloths,
mantel-piece
material
unlimitetl
and
curtains, hangings, cushion
will furnish
effects
cheapness
tapestries
tapestries are
Tapestry
to
desired
means
of
colours
additional
creates
soon
purpose
commercial
of
specimens
for the
that
find
we
six
combinations.
scale
commercial
a
on
comparison
The
this
by
;
colour
for
About
produce the
to
threads
warp
in
useable.
maximum
the
be
would
limited
are
method.
frame
59
commerce.
oe
used
were
tapestry.
"
as
both
warp
warp
may
or
other
fabric
the
Those
be
cotton,
material.
might
weft.
be
produced by
tapestry,"might
and
as
It may
be
be
60
Tapestries
acceptedthat
and
wool
would
materials
of
Specimens
cotton.
differentlycoloured
of
silk
as
which
cheaper material,
be
weft
such
only in comparison
would
weaving
be
in
sunilar
to
cotton,
considered
these
and
a
or
from
instances
by
few
a
coloured
one
materials
the
hide
to
produced
threads
warp
there is
and
cotton, "c., the objectivewill be
the
view
expensive fabrics where
in many
combination
commerce.
of
and
manner
cheapest form
of
tapestry.
With
considered
warp
will
the
to
give
tapestries,and
indication
some
loom
which
there
side
to
picture, and
coloured
not
the real
the
on
the
"
weft
"
double
figureis very
and
some
Most
both
"
these
of them
by
is the face side.
in
to
The
be those
the
deciding upon
be
will
It
as
like
a
tapestriesin which
coloured
woven
the cloths
are
Scotch,
reversible
and
are
reversible for
and
when
submitted
to
the
are
produced
the
trace
cloth
designed
face,
cloth.
ingrain carpets
produced
use
they
are
often
it is easy
effect behind
a
threads
warp
reversible, but
are
cloths
of tablecloths
are
according
principleof weaving,
thereby producing
kinds
that
tapestry." They
elaborate
Kidderminster,''
market
threads
cloth
In
cloths.
story.
the
on
of
figurethe design will
pattern.
OAvn
imitation
opposite coloured
"
the
tells its
tapestry.
as
hesitation
no
design is produced
and
form
common
tapestrieswill be found
show
cloths put
Many
the
is
which
to
as
or
be
tapestriesmight
double
some
of colour
predominance
proper
of
generally be found, however,
superior power
in
kinds
some
reversible, notably the
as
weft
or
It
people
many
in this
if necessary.
manner.
and
TAPESTRIES
Many
the
of
and
hangings,
silk,
mohair,
imitation
termed
according
''
so-called
"c.,
and
of
"
brocade
to
OF
the
in
produced
in
old
real
of
might
''
or
the
of
contradistinction
''
nature
mixtures
tapestry,"
tapestry
cushionings
coverings,
tapestry
worsted,
61
COMMERCE.
fabric
cotton,
to
be
damask
construction.
the
suitably
tapestry/'
62
CARPETS
,
CHAPTER
IX.
Carpets.
Experts divide the
three distinct
branches, viz.
pilecarpets
(1) True
(2) Tufted
of
manner
carpets
:
"
In the true
;
;
cloth
pilecarpet
"
known
"
cut
pileis formed
The
a
weit
between
is
withdrawn,
In the
carpet
end
"
a
cut
The
threads
direction
in the
during
short length has
a
leaving a loop
speciallyconstructed
wire
the
cuts
of
manner
the
pilewarp.
warp
thread
regard
of the
the operation of
been
the wire
woven
formation.
knife blade
at the
and
pile warp
to
are
weaving
both
similar,with
It will be found
forming
Brussels
a
Wilton
extreme
forms
so
the
that
the pattern is
its method
of
variouslycoloured
every
Wilton
coloured
pile
separatelycontrolled
interlacingwith
warp
and
the exception of cutting
weft threads, the positionfor interlacingand
of the
a
pHe."
tapestry carpets
in
as
threads
warp
operation of withdrawing the wires, for
of the
are
is known
by interlacmg the pUe
the warp
After
weaving.
first named
two
last named
long wire speciallyinserted
over
carpets.
{a) Brussels, (") patent
The
carpets.
Art
or
carpets
pHe."'
velvet
or
find
we
the
piles,''
uncut
as
reversible
or
Scotch, Kidderminster,
tapestry, (c) Wilton
into
-
(3) Ingrain carpets, double
like the
producing carpets
threads
the wire
or
the selection
being
controlled
64
CARPETS.
cheaper
than
carpet
pattern is printed
In order
is
to
get
a
Brussels
the
on
figuringpile warp
clear outline
outline
of
pattern, however, is invariablyof
the clear and
from
Wilton
or
No
decided
Jacquard
will be cotton.
fabric
bulk
''
sized
A
and
This
to
the
is
is
design on
the
Brussels
a
which
is
pile warp
part of the ground
some
structure
the
lies between
usually jute, and
is either
adds
and
weight
of the
the
when
self-coloured
colours in their
of
which
will
design is produced by
variety
of
of coloured
coarse
easily suggest
be
examined,
the
prominent
very
tapestry, the
different
of
found
Carpets.
to
to
tufted
the
first weaving
laid
in
across
pile
togetheror
differentlycoloured
that when
or
Brussels.
length.
carpets belong
tufts, so
is
in the
absent
AxMiNSTER
Axminster
back
pile threads,
Wilton, bemg
or
figuringthi-eads
short
is
will
threads
pile warp
this carpet and
between
apparent
more
a
cotton, and
jute, linen, or
examination
difference
in Brussels
a
of
stiiTen the fabric.
continuous
The
blurred
a
easilybe distinguished
required,
stuffing
warp
is
used
careful
show
threads.
warp
the carpet.
weft
The
outline
machine
The
structure
to
may
the
carpet.
generallyworsted,
If
great accuracy
appearance,
printing the design on
indistinct character, and
The
threads.
in
or
or
Wilton.
or
requhed
The
"
the
tufts, a pattern will be
tufted
the
"
pick
observer
''
how
is
or
less proportions
produced.
examined,
the
bining
com-
threads
short
greater
class.
it will
pattern
and
fabric
in
built up
are
what
outline
of
not
Wilton
carpets.
so
Axminster
Wilton
It is
widths
The
will
Top
Binding
this
in
this
follows
as
are
from
the
of
minster
Ax-
an
Worsted
.
.
.
Jute, linen, or
cotton
linen
or
Jute
mechanically
are
consists
of
class and
on
The
woven.
knotted
constructed
pile
tufts, similar
finer
a
to
scale, and
carpet (velvetpile).
Persian, Turkey, and
imitations
the
Jute
but
of the
of
carpets.
construction
Cotton
instance
Some
also
or
"
warp
resembling Wilton
tufted
Brussels
:
material
carpets
Axminster,
weft
great
class of carpet in wider
the
forming
weft
Moquette
''
previouslymentioned
Stuffingwarp
Back
the
on
with
distinguishit
to
carpets
Wiltons.
as
tufted
obtain
binding weft.
or
These
tufts
pile.
materials
Tufting
"
easily serve
the
carpet
and
decided
or
The
possibleto
than
weft.
coloured
design, although produced
velvet
or
the
Brussels
clear
skill,is
of the
incidence
termed
largelywith
compete
The
be
might
the
by
65
CAtlPETS.
AXMINSTER
Indian
carpets belong
entirelyhand
are
latest
of Persian
designs
the
to
made.
in Axminster
carpet designs,and
carpets
they
are
are
very
produced.
artistically
There
are
is
"
no
pile
"
ingrain carpets,
on
but
they
invariablyreversible.
The
latest
style of
"
Art
''
carpet is produced by
interlacing differently coloured
self-coloured
warp
to form
a
woven
weft
threads
design.
with
a
66
CROSS
GAUZE,
LENO
OR
X.
CHAPTER
Cross
Gauze,
This
of
system
inasmuch
or
parallel
at
the
each
the weft, but
make
weaving
of
this kind
fabric
peculiarityin
of fabric will not
are
run
more
or
opera-
28.
intricate than
The
not
D
C
more
fabrics.
admit
of
a
for the
ordinary
construction
very
close
or
of
heavy
being produced.
StripesA
a
is
others,
mechanical
The
other.
Fig.
of
do
threads
warp
all
from
differs
B
tion
Weaving.
Leno
rightangleswith
round
less twisted
or
weaving
all
as
WEAVING.
simple
and
D, Fig. 28, illustrate by hand
"
"
gauze
"
or
leno
"
weave.
weaving
Stripes B,
C
GAUZE,
CROSS
OR
LENO
67
WEAVING.
x^C^'
Fig.
29.
'''ii'lli''''4lf''^i;''
lit
'lb
I
Fig.
31.
68
other
are
of
simple
ground
''
"
classes
but
of
crossed
"
leno
it
a
is
now
is
"
as
combination
used
in
goods
weave
either
is
which
used
all
as
a
the
with
other
"
effects
over
stripes."
"
illustrates
Fig.
29
Fig.
30
illustrates
Fig.
31
illustrates
"
leno
a
leno
figured
a
"
lace
stripe
muslin.
leno.
figured
a
"
or
''
with
*'
weft
extra
an
figure.
spot
"
The
is
Fig.
over
used
often
state
purposes
"
all
common
dyed
or
WEAVING.
picks,
structures
weave
in
or
other
or
LENO
A
plain
all
for
''
gauze
few
a
term
''
OR
crossings.
with
gauze
common
similar
in
leno
buckram
in
and
millinery
for
construction
bleached
dressmaking
stripes
to
the
and
A
D,
28.
The
firmer
"
CROSS
GAUZE,
plain
than
weave."
make
threads
twisted
it
would
be
the
otherwise
"
muslin
if
"
texture
constructed
in
COMPARATIVE
CLOTH
XI.
CHAPTER
ClOTH
COMPAEATIVE
69
ETC.
QUALITIES,
QUALITIES
WATERPROOF
AND
Cloths.
In
constructed
cloth
a
"
twisted,taped, known
the
by
formed
cloth
together and
the
the
of
from
thicker
or
"
proportion of
from
threads
than
which
the cloth
"
"
as
and
Strong
cloths
short
other.
the
than
warp
the
start.
the
weft
made
difficult to tear, and
piece lengths.
"
to
threads
warp
the
threads
is
weft
through
is
gTeater
a
in the
The
cloth,
the warp
particulardirection
the
upon
for such
put, especially
too
from
picks
the other, after first cutting
to
weak,
double
often
in
to
uses
uniform
sateens.
spoiled,due
are
a
lengthways
there
or
be easier to tear
to be
in
or
''
When
warp,
plains,twills,or
cloths
strong
more
has
warp
or
threads
strength is required depends
weaves
Many
a
threads,
threads
through
selvedgeto
selvedge to get
the
''
coarse
being closely set
weft
or
the
to
picks
one
which
"
than
invariablyit will
then
one
picks
selvedge
one
weft
or
material, it will be easier
same
rather
warp,
stronger
''
the
through
tear
weft
threads
warp
strong, double
warp,"
weak
or
containing fewer
proportionallyof
either
double
as
fine
with
threads, and
with,
having
or
contrary
twisted
must
the
to
this.
will
be
through
for
yarns
be cut
too
warp
70
CLOTH
COMPARATIVE
comparative strength
The
of the
the direction
In
with
made
be
through
rupture
the
it would
be
a
The
weaves,
false
"
tear
"
diverts
instead
of
for
tendered
of
the
pick
tearing
'.'or
way
continuingits
the
to
course
opposite selvedge,
as
testing,however,
of
method
reliable,but it may
angle
and
tension
or
with
and
which
the
the
presence
localityof
cloth
''
the
in its course,
irregular
with
fairlytested
for
19
to
of
tear
thereby
23, and
pick
might
"
way
28
in the
be
weaves,"
like
to
or
nesses
thick-
above
cloth.
on
Figs. 12, 13,
31,
utilised for
of the
crossed
figuringthreads
structures,
comparison
test, however,
"
qualities
woven
slacklj^
ground
Figs.
''
sometimes
serve
at
cannot
impression.
woven
strength
in the
diversion
a
cause
14, 17, and
of
either
be considered
operation
materials, different
mixed
of yarns,
crude
for
through
across,
during the
constructed
uniformly
to
been
if
physicalfault
across,''might
Cloths
clean
dryness, or smoothness,
uncommon
creating a
other
condemned.
guide.
is torn, its
an
goods have
and
threads
warp
always be accepted
as
sateens,
resorted
would
or
unscientific
This
and
selvedge,it
threads
the weft
through
twills
to
"
the
either
in
cheap linings and
the
sharp
But
right.
across,
"
processes.
selvedge
from
cloths
some
test
is sometimes
test
If the cloth tears
warp
tearing
cotton
for
whether
to detect
dyeing
quality of
previous goods supplied
with
comparison
qualityor
dyed
single yarns
this crude
purposes,
in the
of
"
ETC.
weft.
or
warp
classes
some
and
the
judged by
be
will often
to
QUALITIES,
cannot
manner.
a
be
The
comparison
72
WOOLLEN
INFERIOR
CLOTHS.
will
priced garments, therefore,
to be the
slubby threads,
always
they
garment,
for
water
to
made
garments
Rubber
nearly
so
healthy
and
much
and
one
cannot
shabby,
made
requirerenewal.
to
thick
slubby
than
goods,
the
more
have
principles
in
in
odour
a
this
heavy
soon
friction
and
many
such
the
say,
expect them
tear, and
to
buy
from
broad
to
foundation.
poor
a
due
Similar
tent.
as
least
be
to
are
the
Cloths.
Woollen
and
wear
inclement
to
goods.
goods
with
is false economy
garments
needless
class of
woollen
surface, but
A
linen duck'*
of linen
the
applied on
previous remarks
to
quahties of
inside
agreeable
Inferior
Further
"
the
kinds
are,
water, but
to
a
worsted, linen, "c.
from
previouslynamed
stand
be
may
proofed goods
impervious
moisture
parts of the cloth, thereby causing
to the above
remarks
that
is
saturated.
with
quicker
drip through
to
thick
present in
are
exposed
some
saturated
perfectlyconstructed
the
in
cloth
from
absorb
to
is found
the
quality. There
become
first to
shown
characteristic
thoroughly
become
the
experience has
places,so
freer
or
if many
coverings. When
tent
weather,
threads
in this direction
good example
used
for thick
will be
The
run.
will be its
threads, and
fine
invariably found
construction
the better
tendency
a
than
more
long
in
irregularities
from
is
in the
cheapest
be
of the
workj many
felted
or
They
become
other
low
nappy
do
not
bare
threadIt
causes.
cheap ready-made
materials, because
they
soon
YABN
good
its
article
genuine
A
appearance
at
"
will last
article which
is considered
than
coarser
uniform
one
set
"
''
has
be
to
be
will
way
each
For
to
cloth,
any
sized
heavy
first clear
to
necessary
or
be
slightlytwist,
the threads
"
have
the
the
from
to
by boiling,
hasky
feel in
out
form
a
when
weaves,
although they
torn
may
of mixed
lines between
the
puUrag
goods, which
in
a
from
to
straightline
"
"
weaves
selvedges.
action
in
might
not
woven.
a
the
have
''
cloths, with
cloth.
uniform
selvedge,
to
pick
same
slantingdirection, or
describe
This
rough,
finished
selvedge
in
run
should
somewhat
a
pure
''
a
continuallyalong the
tear
prepared and
carefully
has
finished
across
weft, will be found
case
"
of
\ym.g
undergoing
across,
''
to
Goods.
without
torn
It also
comparison
kinds
loom
threads
selvedges.
common
Finished
when
process,
Aveft
''
Pure
and
''
excessive
j"ner
are
from
other, and
it would
finishing
the
in the
ready
a
quite apparent.
direct
between
the
be
State
sold
always
of
but
opinion.
Cloth
Some
low-class
a
cloth
one
threads
of
in
filling
or
Loom
''
cloth,
the
with
will
size
definite
the
cheap,
in
yarns
number
however,
yarns,
be
to
to
Tests.
another
in
a
difference
the
whether
ascertain
loop
than
reasons
Yarn
draw
retain
oftener.
bought
To
longer and
moder^,te price is rather
a
for economical
desired
be
which
"
73
TESTS.
other
due
is often
process
of
irregular
"
to
the
''
finishing
previously been
very
"
74
"
AND
STATE
LOOM
with
Striped patterns
mixed
"
goods, often get
coloured
the
of
different
tensions
Checked
patterns sometimes
"
finished.''
the
At
times
selvedges
become
especiallyin
weaves,
pulled
"
crooked
threads
warp
become
irregularityunless
their
in
GOODS.
FINISHED
PURE
the
in
to
the
cloths.
the
pronounced
more
goods
carefully
are
lines between
coloured
the wavy
due
spoil the
objectionable, and
pattern.
A
selvedgeswell
its
distortion
better
other.
The
side
the natural
matter
to
high
class
detect
it from
the
straightand
be found
that
will also
or
weft
the
nap
matter
an
easy
surface, and
"
cloth
it is
usually have
but
of
imitation
pinholes, but
for
the
the
on
an
sometimes
high
not
The
holes
pinweft
it will
finished cloths
the
relative
surface
the
has
easy
finish."
common
cloths
side.
face
the
as
worsted
or
uniform,
fibre
be
selvedge,to keep
comparison
or
its
cotton
cheap
a
cotton
the
each
in
"
"
cloth
some
A
"
width
contain
finish.
"
singed from
finished
selected
be
fibre
"
on
usuallysmoother
and
smarter
then
finished
intervals
at
natural
''
class
high
The
should
the
side than
side,but with plain or matting
is the face
which
one
it may
sateens
or
cloth, invariably,is
A
on
the weft
keep
to
have
prevent pullingor
to
"
finished
it is less easy.
finished
In
selvedges,or
In twill cloths
weaves
the
"
smarter
to decide
of
the
pattern of cloth.
of
or
control, in order
under
straightbetween
during "finishing" will
cloth
good qualityof
high quality
quantity
will show
of
what
is.
classes
of dress
threads, due
to
materials, the distorted warp
the
pulling action
during the
"
"
LOOM
STATE
finishing
process
garment
to
PURE
AND
entail
may
obtain
the
in
difficulty
"
true
''
hang
75
GOODS.
FINISHED
cutting
"
out
pull
or
of
a
the
cloth/^
Cloths
too
are
uses.
much
liable
"
which
in
to
width
shrink
''
stretched
are
during
when
the
afterwards
in
"
width,
finishing
applied
or
kept
out
"
processes,
to
ordinary
76
IN
FAULTS
WOVEN
CLOTHS,
XII.
CHAPTER
Faults
previous chapters sufficient
In
which
given
Irom
to
comparison
a
given
opinion
an
for
in
Faults
in
Construction
the
Irregularspun
of
Woven
the
in
yarns
or
snarls, thick
thfey should
be
uniform,
Woven
the
and
Warp
weft
twill pattern
or
knotted, due
left out
or
''
other
many
to
wrongly
picks
forming
threads
as
where
weak
threads.
Weaving
Faults.
and
''
or
destroy
be
or
missed
threads
Warp
the
ground texture,
or
a
lacing
loose inter-
constantlypieced up,
bad
Warp
yarns.
broken
to
"
a
weaves
weft
inserted.
or
'^
regularity
spoilthe regularityor
picks,'"due
"
too
thin
figuredweave
Spoiledand
broken
and
floats, which
missing,which
out, missing, or
by
to
welt, such
and
warp
yarns
to
principally
ot cloth texture.
called
now-
sometimes
Threads
the
Texture
causing intersections
of threads.
or
following are
slubs, lumps, specky, leafy,
mixed
chippy, and dirtyweft,
in
respect
Texture.
loops, curls,
thus
The
with
been
goods.
woven
THE
Faults
be formed
may
quality.
has
information
representingthe principalfaults
as
be found
ot
Cloths.
Woven
in
group
or
threads
Thick
of
threads
evenness
patterns,
being
left
places,caused
weft
thieads
or
FAULTS
"
picks
THE
setting
''
of
frets,due
ground
to
of
setting
from
which
two,
"
ground
show
weaves.
Coloured
coloured
will appear
in
will appear
thin
lines
the
cloth.
odd
an
place
as
of
lengthways
the
against
goods.
woven
bad
out
purpose
of
which
in
uniform
the
Threads
arranged
produce
irregular
Loose
ends
weft, dirt marks,
the
threads
weft
and
oil
had
to
tor
lumps
on
stains, mixed
widths.
has
weaver
positions
wrong
selvedges, irregular
places,i.e.,where
take
length.
warp
threads
cloth, scobs, thick
Unweaving
"
"
unweave
previouslyinserted, for
other
rectifyingsome
faults
caused
the
through
weaving.'"
These
faults
but
the
where
of the
up
they
thick
"
a
thin
"
one.
''
to
the
will also
has
taken
weaver's
these
out, thereby making
Sometimes
"
often
show
goods mostly
be cut
similar
are
unweaving
scraping action
a
threads
warp
figured goods,
for
of
in
in
threads
wrongly
bad
faults
uniform
texture.
Slack
weft,
the
selvedge of
to
faults
These
cloth, and
the
few
will be
than
spoils regularityof texture, known
dents."
cram
a
or
threads
of weft
group
These
selvedge
of
uniform
closelyenough together in
structure.
Crowding together
or
a
in
places,cracks,
''
or
together
will be the
Thin
cloth
woven
ground
horizontally
"
picks
closer
than
structure.
"
few
a
parts of the
some
or
cloth
woven
77
ETC.
TEXTURE,
being regularlyinserted
not
.
WOVEN
being irregularlyinserted
parts of the
some
"
''
IN
a
thick
show
mentioned,
places afore-
fluffyor linty
place,
caused
comb.
Coloured
faults, and
they
disconnected
unweaving
place
the
by
woven
often
will
piece length.
is caused
instead
78
FAULTS
IN
THE
"
thread
Warp
number
of
weaving,
up
without
threads
warjD
and
have
cloth.
Uneven
common,
and
raw
''
due
"
counteracting
Stiff and
"
"
owing
the
to
blotchy
or
action
Dyed, Printed,
in warp
weft
or
Faults.
"
ness,
mildew,
weaving
feel, not
"
a
clothy
faulty
;
reedy
of warp
cotton
''
heavy
to
wiry
or
''
feel,"
materials
and
for
goods.
"
filling
and
disagreeable smells
damp
on
Goods.
cotton
"
Uneven
goods.
shades
Specks, spots, streaks, glazing,
mould,
in
dyeing
uneven
colours, tendering, brittle-
feel, rough feel, thick
"
a
process.
places,
colours, loose
harsh
Damp
yarns.
due
cuts, oil splash, stains, iron
printing,faded
Harsh
"
principallyin
Bleached
threads.
to
setts
adulterating
of mildew
and
rough,
or
weaving
or
These
qualitiesof
cloth, due
in
sizing of
feel
the
after
finishing
Patchy
"
boardy
cloth.
better
pairs
Treatment
mildew,"
piece them
to
piece.
sizing with
heavy
to
of
been
operation
threads
warp
between
of the
heavy
to
made
of the
threads
divisions
Cloth
and
feel/' due
of
warp
lengthways
been
in the
out
appearance
the
cloth, showing
Yarn
cut
the
during
appearance
weaving
of
tensioning
has
large
a
together have
smashed
be
to
ETC.
places, i.e., where
attempt
an
TEXTURE,
grouped
or
spoilingthe
faults often
threads
"
smash
accidentally broken
of
WOVEN
feel, not
"
a
draping
feel, papery
"
feel, poor
finish.
Make-up.
"
Wrong
marking
tickets, irregular measurement
"
make-up."
of
of
piece lengths
the
on
yard, slovenly
80
GLOSSARY
BARNSLEY
LINENS.
for
A
"
the
OF
TERMS.
of
description
of
purposes
linen
especially
made
and
Bleached
embroidery.
unbleached.
BARRACAN.
A
"
used
camlet,
BEATRICE
TWILL.
BEAVER.
A
"
thick
coarse,
for
A
"
outside
fustian, similar
or
to
clothing.
five-end
woollen
heavy
moleskin
four
cloth
and
weft
milled
one
raised
and
twill.
warp
and
nicely
finished.
BEAVER
A
CLOTH."
having
smooth
a
BEAVERTEEN.
A
"
BEDFORD
of
lengthways
BEIGE.
BEIGE
BERLIN
"
made
BLACKBURN
dyed,
the
or
merchant.
same
the
"
from
corduroys,"
wool.
twill.
wool.
embroidery
largely
named,
They
Originally
"
and
are
wool.
Bury
and
afterwards
A
silk.
"
a
Grey
which
and
cloths
cotton
often
are
after
considered
are
Sometimes
England.
in
spmi
piece length
bleached,
delivery
be
to
otlxer Cheshire
Low
"
flannel
made
now
of
qualitiesare
Dewsbury
CLOTHS
BLEACHED
"
in
loose
floating or
to
inferior
for
makes
the
purpose.
blankets
BOLTING.
districts
prmted
from
CLOTHS."
Glossop printers
to
BLANKET.
BURNLEY
in the
free
fabrics
"c.
wool, but
AND
made
and
state
grey
cotton
or
distinct
as
diagonal
German
wool
vmdyed
Knitting
"
called
from
bold
A
TWILL."
WOOL.
piece, but
surface
in the
cropped.
riding breeches,
^Material
cloth, milled,
of
Woven
ribbed
or
the
the
on
for
used
and
dyed
Corded
"
tlireads
of fustian.
variety
CORDS:
make
siu'face.
afterwards
and
woollen
stout
fine kind
in
of canvas,
wool.
materials
simply
for
Grey
the
all
mixed
noted
are
(COTTON)."
bleached
fabric
"
cotton
real
"
cotton
of
Many
cotton
blankets."
blankets."
piece-goods,
piece length.
sometimes
made
in linen
and
SHEETING.
BOLTON
BOMBAZINE.
thick,
twilled
coarse
of
combination
A
"
A
"
81
TERMS.
OF
GLOSSARY
silk
worsted
and
warp
cloth.
cotton
weft
material.
COTTON.
BONNET
MUSLIN
WOOL.
CLOTH.
BRAIDS.
A
"
weft
desired
"
ground
BROCATELLE.
BROWN
to
used
fine cotton
warp
weft.
fabric
cotton
having
small
quality
good
form
"
of
a
a
woollen
of
even-felted
an
cloth.
by
A
pattern.
figure produced
surface.
figured fabric,
A
single cloth
weft
texture
a
threads
in any
brocade
sateen
on
cloth,
warp
is
sateen
for
drapery
carriage
having
a
raised
design
thrown
weaving.
velvet
for
used
materials
Textile
the
material
"c.
or
silk material
with
a
figure thrown
satin
surface.
A
HOLLAND."
used
descriptions.
chieflyconstructed
surface
silk
A
in the
upon
cotton,
texture.
linings,
A
alpaca, mohair,
wide, with
is
Jacquard
"
"
and
which
manner
weft
"
from
figured Jacquard
the
floating on
BROGHE.
made
fabric, with
woven
29 inches
figure of
BROCATINE.
in
worsted
or
stout
weft
A
"
up
wool
A
exceeding
a
dyed
sizes and
woven
lightly
"
the
colours.
cloths
figures.
BROADCLOTHS.
BROCADE.
of
qualities
silk, artificial silk, mercerised
plain
heavier
BRILLIANTE.
materials
various
of
BRILLIANTINE.^-A
a
fine
good
other
or
Melton
coarse
cotton,
linen
and
wools,
tape
worsted,
and
16
wool.
^Thick
"
^Narrow
"
to
plain description
A
MUSLIN."
Merino
"
of Australian
BOX
eight
stiffened.
muslin
BOTANY
of
together.
BUKE
OR
consisting
thread,
coarse
twisted
strands
BOOK
A
"
dresses.
for trunk
linen
material,
Glazed
linings and
and
half
dyed
furniture
or
unbleached,
hollands.
coverings.
Often
82
GLOSSARY
CARPET."
BRUSSELS
BURBERRY
YARNS.
CABLED
A
"
it
"
QUILT.
A
"
in
loom,
like
which
before
M^hich
the
six-cord
a
has
the
weaving.
strands
posing
com-
sewing
doubled
three
fabric
grey
thick
by
up
in
cotton
threads
together.
the
"looped"
or
of
which
heavy
which
"
fabric.
sateen
folded
twisted
or
fabric
proofed
thread,
example,
"
folded
W
also
for
thread,
fine warp
folded
are
"
specially
A
"
IX.
"waterproof"
been
have
TERMS.
Chapter
A
CLOTH.
BUCKSKIN
CADDO
See
CLOTH."
yarns
OF
produced
weft
hand
inserted
form
to
is
the
hand
the
on
"
"
plucked
design.
Very
scarce.
CALICO.
-A
"
sometimes
CAMBRIC
applied
OR
(COTTON
finished
to
twill
cloth
A
the
twill
as
calico."
cloth,
woven
usually
woven,
Cambric
piece.
goods,
woven
grey
"
plain
closely
yarns
in
plain
to
LINEN)."
fine
of
and
applied
term
common
structed
con-
bleached
handkerchiefs
for
example.
CAMLET.
Material
"
made
and
"
class
CANVAS.
of
an
(SAIL).
warp"
See
CASEMENT
CLOTH.
mohair,
or
CASHMERE.
worsted
fine cord
the
on
other.
side
one
Smoothed
and
by
dresses.
strong, and
but
examples
Many
often
are
made
seen
in
strong
built
cloth, with
"double
flax yarns.
IX.
Chapter
A
"
fabric
plain woven
alpaca,
or
all cotton,
made
from
usually dyed
worsted,
self-colours
bleached.
A
"
woollen
CASHMERE
or
yarn
(Cotton.)
stout
coarse
CARPETS."
now
Imitations
goat.
worsted
a
upon
yarns.
canvas.
A
"
hair, but
warm.
texture,
open
camel's
Angora
workmen's
for
folded
coarse
embroidery
CANVAS
and
surface
Used
of
Cloth
"
the
of fustian, with
warp
singeing.
from
closely-twisted
It is thick
silk.
A
of
hair
from
satin
a
the
from
made
are
CANTOON.
originallymade
lightly
and
warp
TWILL.
"
A
fine
woven
fine
botany
two-weft
and
twill
wool
fabric.
Cotton
weft.
one-warp
twill.
or
GLOSSARY
SILK."
CHARDONNET
CH
ECKS.
fabric
A
"
both
"
OF
artificial silk.
An
in which
warp
Bastard
weft
"
checks
squares
or
those
threads
in the
CLOTH.
"
to
kind
threads
short
dyed
of
"
in
Axminster,
A
carpet.
crossings
to
colours
of different
to
differently coloured
"
form
modified
tweeds.
Made
wools.
of
groups
in
fashion, interlaced
caterpillar
thereby
cloth, similar
woven
Scotch
coarser
"
longitudinal strips to
to
pattern.
square
weft
twill
of
the
or
combination
A
"
coloured
same
warp.
"
Cheviot
pure
a
the
set
are
form
to
way
have
rough
homespmis
from
CHENILLE.
A
"
threads
rectangles, but
form
CHEVIOT
coloured
the
and
way
83
TERMS.
"
weft
for
the
producing
for
means
carpets similar
design
the
on
"
imitating
pile
"
fabrics.
CHEESE-CLOTH.
A
"
very
cloth, often
their
A
"
multi-coloured
ground texture,
chintz
fabrics
threads
silk
colours
the
Stuff
"
have
materials
WOVEN
linen
the
in
process.
Also
"
which
The
printed patterns,
the
cloth
surface.
as
fancy
or
Woven
the
on
warp
Examples
where
chene,
pattern.
of wool
and
Some
cotton.
weft.
Coloured
the
specifica
material.
cloth.
known
in the
woollen
are
of
coloin-ed
which
woollens,
cottons,
yarns
pattern
interlacing of individual
from
on
and
for
curtains.
printed
into
run
Noted
to
silk
and
colours
composed
GOODS.
goods,
weaving
have
to
seem
or
fabric, plain
woven
trimmings.
Cheshire
cloths.)
woven
hangings
various
being
silk warp
a
COLOURED
have
for
full up
Burnley
printed
used
before
in
seen
COBURGS.
and
in
Cheshire.
always
lightly-constructed, plain
A
"
and
and
work.
made
goods
Lancashire
Blackburn
(See
tliread
cotton
superior quality,
tion.
CHIFFON.
of
lightly-constructed plain
drawn
for
Grey
"
borders
the
on
CHINTZ.
used
CLOTHS.
CHESHIRE
and
open
are
before
the
is formed
by
dyed
cloth
threads,
"set"
or
or
as
distinct
"fixed"
84
GLOSSARY
CONNAUGHT
YARNS.
the
by
CORDUROY.
^Woollen.
of Valencia
with
fabric
pile
CORKSCREW.
twill
A
"
the
cotton
a
surface
"
lengthways
weft, which
"
A
of
the
is afterwards
"
fustian
cloth,
"
with
above,
to
produced
yarn
Island.
cotton
"
Similar
and
weft
on
fingering wool
(See pile fabrics.)
cut.
"
TERMS.
Irish
"ribbed"
formed
piece,
CORD.
An
"
peasants
^A
"
OF
"
wool
a
"
pile
cut
warp.
in which
weave
is much
less
the
greater than
or
rib formed
diagonal
at
of
angle
an
forty-fivedegrees.
COTTON."
See
COUNTS.
Chapter
Numbers
"
given
closeness
COUTIL.
A
"
CRAPE.
different
to
coloured
plain
in the
YARN.
Crape
curls
A
in
weave
or
fabric, often
a
;
a
mostly
crinkled
the
threads
weaving
inter-
crape.
thread
kept
not
with
A
yarns.
produces
fabric
imitate
"
twisted
at
which
high
a
from
made
shrinks
or
tension.
linen
and
yarns
towelling.
Similar
"
when
material
for
hard
hard-twisted
very
length
coarse
used
CREPON.
A
"
"
with
finishingprocess
irregularly to
"
fine twill cotton
woven
fabric
woven
appearance.
CRASH.-
of yarns,
reeds, healds, "c.
contraction
CRAPE
thicknesses
for corsets.
A
"
of
firmly
used
III.
admixture
crape.
of
different
of
processes
Sometimes
to
produced
in
materials, which,
finishing, are
acted
upon
fabric
made
by
the
the
after-
differently by
chemicals.
CRETONNE.'
-A
"
fairly heavy
wefts, with
coarse
like crape,
groimds
hangings,
CRIMP.
"
A
plain
cotton
printed figiu'eson
plain
or
CROYDONS.
CRUMB
A
"
CLOTH.
fabric
woven
from
used
as
kind
"
a
twill
common
irregularly woven
Used
ground.
for
"c.
striped effects, by having
running
or
with
A
different
of cotton
heavy
stairs
which
slack
warp
contains
and
tight
"
warp
cockled
threads
beams.
sheeting.
linen
covering.
Damask
labric, sometimes
"
GLOSSAHY
DAMASK.
"reverse"
table
weaves,
form
"
"
figure
warp
different
of
are
damask
face
weft
a
equally bound,
are
fabric.
sometimes
is
weave,
hnen
with
figure
groiind
figure
a
In
weft-covered
a
on
example,
face
firm
uniformly
a
for
warp
and
ground
fig\ireand
Both
ground.
85
TERMS.
the
as,
i.e., a
cover,
and
which
in
fabric
A
"
OF
goods
cotton
but
ground,
of
"
described
as
a
a
cotton
a
damask."
D E LAI
N E.
all-wool
An
"
often
DENIM
coarse
weft.
Sometimes
"
DIAGONALS.
Also
DIAPER
in
WEAVE.
is
weft.
In
DIMITY.
sized
a
and
and
coarse
grey
weave.
"
Sold
slops.
loom
as
sized.
heavily
not
are
twill
satin
warp
denims
textures.
woven
material
wool
soft
fabrics,
cotton
linen
with
bold
a
it is confined
patterns
twill.
fabrics,
a
on
small
in
above,
as
and
scale.
of
The
and
warp
figured
"
Other
or
diced, diamond,
small
also
diced
to
interchanging
the
by
reversible.
A
weft
bleached
in
damask
Dorneck,"
names,
"
cheaper
woven
are
plain ground
TWEEDS."
A
of
due
termed
warp
face
the
coarse
times
Some-
"c.
is afterwards
printed
Sometimes
in
dimity
made
in alternate
to
hangings,
stripe
cloth,
cotton
arranged
bed
woven
weave.
brocaded
embossed,
for
is sometimes
stripe
diaper
ornamentation.
further
"
if
Used
unfigured
kind
CLOTH.
the
figures are
as
appear
patterns
eye
The
flushes."
for
with
figiiredstriped
texture.
the
upon
fabrics
Lmen
"
stripes, and
DONEGAL
with
self-coloured
Diced."
stout
DOESKIN
made
bird's-eye patterns,
CLOTH.
"
heavily
produced
patterns,
"
yarns,
reversible
weave
blue
or
cotton.
In
"
diamond
and
A
"
made
bro^^-n
overalls
twill
CLOTH.
colourings.
American
cloths.
Bold
"
DIAGONAL
warp
workmen's
for
state
A
MAKE)."
fabric,
Used
DIAPER
in tasteful
printed
(BRITISH
material, lightlyconstructed
plain-woven
goods.
cotton
by arranging
and
weft
face
bird's-
a
reversed
twill
texture.
woollen
See
cloth
tweeds.
with
a
smooth
A
surface.
on
a
86
GLOSSARY
DONGAREE.
A
"
OF
"
blue
and
DOMETT.
An
plain cloth,
strong,
weft
Used
warp
Blue
yarns.
for
cotton
workmen's
Strong
satin
linen
weft.
overalls
woollen
cloth.
weft.
Used
for
"c.
warp-faced
fabrics,
Often
bleached
weaves.
and
warp
unbleached
coarse,
towels, collars,
aprons,
"
clotlis.
state
open
^A
"
DRILLS.
and
warp
"
three -thread
slops.
"
DOWLAS.
loom
as
"
self "-coloured
twill, heavily sized
Sold
TERMS.
in
woven
the
in
dyed
or
twill
the
and
piece
length.
DUCK.
"
A
plain
made
of
folded
CLOTHS.
dyed
EGYPTIAN
solid
after
leaving
CLOTH.
A
"
embroidery
EMBOSSED
design
FABRIC
FAST
is
may
be
be
fast to
best
"
in
run
strip
and
looseness
PILE
the
structure.
for
those
are
with
into
a
ordinary
other
to
strip
washing
of colour
VELVETEEN."
surface
the
piece
for
of the
of
in
material,
not
of
material.
Others
withstand
and
treatment,
The
both
' '
not
is
There
may
bleaching.
should
treatment
colours
rubbing.
or
will
which
Some
light.
to
washing
colours.
on
outline
or
looselyused.
but
poor
dyed
pattern
knitted
or
washing,
of colours
by putting
FAST
stamped.
obtaining genuine
fastness
in
goods,
cloth, used
solid
or
light, laundry
"
colours
the
sometimes
colours
colours
or
A
which
light and
washing,
woollen
or
cotton
woven
woven
term
fast to
fast
Fast
A
"
A
single
coarser
loom.
the
of
impressed
"
linen
and
VELVET."
surface
(TEXTILE).
COLOURS.
shades
basket
OR
velvet
Often
work.
PLUSH
the
and
cotton,
cotton,
woven
various
length
for
strong, fabric.
duck.
Grey
"
and
heavy
yarns
for linen
yams
DYED
but
woven,
'
bleed'
difficulty
no
fast
colours.
The
comparative
washmg
may
easily be
ascertained
either
will show
A
fabric
"
colour, along with
the
hot
itself
velveteen
is
or
firmly
on
in
cold
the
which
secured
a
water.
grey
the
in the
"
grey
Any
strip.
pile
on
ground
88
OF
GLOSSARY
FLAX.
"
See
FORFARS.
A
"
III.
Chapter
unbleached
heavy
coarse,
"
cloth, severely milled
wool
All
"
CAMBRICS.
FRENCH
in
silky
FUSTIAN.
pile
"
GABARDINE.-
A
like
applied
for
heavy
to
twill
weave,
and
sky
and
cotton,
CLOTH.
sides.
"
cotton
grey
for
suitable
Irish
A
with
blue
to
weft
"c.
cloths,
not
other
or
of
and
suitable
smart
usually
coloured
for men's
coloiu-ed
warp
principally,
boys' suitings and
Made
linen
"
usually
bindings
curtains.
"
sold
to
loom
match
the
blouses.
hats, dress trimmings,
artificial
silk, woollen,
silk,
yarns.
closely
cloth,
woven
cloaks, visuallydyed
texture,
coarse
scarlet
and
by
worn
peasantry.
twilled
A
"
the
material, similar
qualities are
is
weft
and
Bands
GAMBROON.
"
best
Used
ground.
the
from
both
"rain-proofed"
to
blue
The
The
state."
and
very
corduroys, velveteens, moleskins,
dark
of
colourings.
GALWAY
dress
stripes of white, red, sky,
narrow
"
made
on
appearance
applied
three-thread
grounds
GALLOON.
cambric,
proofed."
"
^A
"
same
term
term
rubber
GALATEA.-
printed
merino.
fabrics
"
linen
of
with
finished.
material
English-made
An
"
general
A
and
make
twilled
fine
wools, the
French
"
"
A
"
TWILL.
the
superior
cloth.
appearance.
merino
FRENCH
A
"
MERINO.
FRENCH
linen
silk material
A
washing, light texture
designs.
FOULARD.
FOULIE.
Linen,
TERMS.
linen
lining
cloth,
/
BROCHE.
GAUZE
floral
OR
GAUZE
GIMP.
"
An
made
Similar
"
designs
LENO.
open
"
work
from
of
See
Grenadine,
to
satin
decorated
with
construction.
chapter
trimming
silk worsted
but
on
used
or
gauze
for
cotton
cross-weaving.
or
dresses
yarns.
and
furniture
OF
GLOSSARY
GINGHAM.
A
"
colours.
mixed
A
"
medium
or
coloured
domestic
for
plain fabric
woven
fine
a
heavier
a
cloth
check
GLACE.
Usually
but
yarn,
coloured
firmly
A
in
cotton
checked
thickness
weft.
uses
with
material
89
TERMS.
of warp
coloured
common
districts.
country
and
warp
in
thicker
mohair
weft.
SILK.
GLACE
and
lustrous
A
"
in self-colours,
produced
of
cheap quality
stripes, shot
plain
silk
woven
effects,
chene
or
effects.
GLORIA.
finely-woven twill silk
A
"
artificial silk.
An
GLANZSTOFF."
and
fabric
woollen
used
for
umbrellas.
GOSSAMER.
silk
rich
A
"
GRANDRELLE.
twofold
A
"
gauze.
SHIRTING.
GRANDRELLE
GRENADINE.
An
"
openly
dress
for
yarns,
GROSGRAIN.
warp
and
grey
fabric, plain
Sometimes
yarns,
black
silk
stout
cotton
yarns
silk, polished
differently
two
together.
heavy
woven
material.
A
"
A
"
grandrelle warp
with
made
twisted
single threads
coloured
of
composed
yarn
or
made
other
or
sateen
cloth
cotton
weft.
texture,
gauze
of
dyed
cotton
materials.
"stuff"
having
fine
a
cord,
like repp.
CLOTH.
GREY
bleached
Not
from
made
Fabrics
"
dyed,
or
distinct
as
in
yarns
the
from
state.
grey
coloured
woven
fabrics.
or
HAIR
MUSLIN.
HARRIS
CLOTHS.
T W
or
Woven
"
E ED.
heavy
(See Fig. 5,
A
"
Same
fine
cotton
weave
"
as
Harvard
cloth
a
sheeting
shirting.")
with
fine
cords
lengthways.
running
HAIR
twill.
Cassimere
CORD
twill.
two-and-two
A
HARVARD."
"
and
diagonal
A
materials
'
'
homespun."
rough
weave.
made
pure
It
woollen
from
the hair of animals.
Usually natural
material,
usually has
a
with
coloured,
a
twill
strong smell,.
90
GLOSSARY
HERRING-BONE.
A
"
firmly
various
widths
weaves,
after
A
strong,
HESSIAN.
"
OF
of
the
plain
coarse,
10^
weighing
HONEYCOMB.-
from
"
HOPSACK.
ozs.
A
"
"
HOLLAND.
for
carriage
A
"
threads
fabric;
"
finished
view
"
of
and
flannelette,"
abuse
may
of
the
that
defines
CARPET.
have
CAMBRIC.
in
"
term
"
"
flannel
A
"
A
treating
weft
firmly
the
to
to
woollen
future.
shall
cloth
from
the
fine
In
heard
sale
of
of
this
the
Considering
material"
imitation
the
law
all wool.
be
made
as
the
flannel," until
Cotton
"
suitably
goods.
upon
be
A
spun.
is afterwards
probably
the
fabrics
cotton
loosely
flannel," this
"
carpet
linen
appearance
being put
dyed previously to
been
facturers.
manu-
but
rough
similar
will
more
designated
be
woven
by
nature,
fabric
the
pressed
material
imitation
and
floaty
cotton
restrictions
the
naturally curly,
imitated
now
The
wear.
hand-spun
of
system
short-stapled
"
be
to
state,"
towel."
A
"
a
loom
women's
found
and
coarse
is raised, and
nap
be
of
huck-a-back
of
"
"
IRISH
a
WOOLLENS.
made
will
"
heavy
and
solely, but
"
IMITATION
men's
for
loom
giving
Used
unglazed.
linings,dress materials, boys'
Formerly
bound,
i.e.,
quilt."
loosely woven
"weave"
A
"
honeycomb,"
and
Glazed
wiry.
hand
the
HUCK-A-BACK.
INGRAIN
and
fibres of the
on
inch,
per
blinds.
coarse
and
shots
make
fabric.
trunk
cloth
long,
a
honeycomb
linen.
woollen
pure
"
"
covers,
wrappering
standard
13
"
represent
weave
suitings, window
HOMESPUNS.
to
"
Unbleached
"
wide,
feathers.
or
or
A
yarns.
inches
towel,"
matting
bones
twill
yard.
per
weave
honeycomb
reversed
packing
woven
in
arranged
by
herring
jute
is 40
"
A
"
of
manner
basis
price
a
cloth
striped
woven
pattern, produced
cloth, mostly made
for
TERMS.
as
wool
yarns
weaving
the
French
which
process.
cambric.
GLOSSARY
DUCK.
IRISH
A
"
material
linen
stout
91
TERMS.
or
used
for
workmen's
blouses.
IRISH
LINEN.
ITALIAN
LINING.
Usually
"
and
bleached,
or
"
linen, usually fine
All
"
glossy
of mixed
JACCONETTES.
in
the
give
to
qualities will
Bleached,
yarns.
dyed,
(See mulls,
piece length.
grey
finished
be
a
made
goods lightly constructed,
cotton
light
dyed
yarns,
of linen.
or
woven
of
composed
cotton
highly
Better
appearance.
Plain
sateen,
afterwards
"
materials
"
weft
a
material.
texture
or
printed
nainsooks,
brics,
cam-
"c.)
JAEGER.
JEAN.
"
A
"
"
An
"
"
dongaree
sometimes
woven
which
KERSEYMERE.
and
A
"
caused
WOOL
by the
"
See
Originally
yams,
"
See
A
corsets.
state
as
weft
jeans
girls'
times
Some-
twills,
lining cloths.
cloth,
fabric.
1 weft
by
2
reversible
for
a
or
of
figured
(See
Chapters
linsey cloth, with
soft twisted
fancy
on
twill.
woven
VIII"
fine
woollen
the
weft.
yarn
dyed various
work.
linen
bleached
lawns
woven.
cross
of
rough surface
a
lappet weaving.
Victoria
plain
gauze
Idnd
"
chapter
cambrics.
LENO.
A
"
blue
collars, boys' and
irregular thickness
YARN.
colours, used
LAWN.
for
of coloured
navy
for
is
IX.)
KNICKERBOCKER.
"
the
grey
fine woollen
cloth
plain
the
dyed
CLOTH."
double
in
seen
threads"
examples
jeans used
drab
in
twilled
"KIDDERMINSTER
Better
for sailors'
woven
are
A
"
in the
"three
on
be
may
afterwards
are
woven
jean.
a
jeans
warp
they
LAPPET.
cloth
called
clothing, and
LAMBS'
material.
good quality used
of
"
"
all wool
-weaving.
are
made
fabric, superior
froin
fine
cotton
to
92
GLOSSARY
LINE.
The
"
fine, long,
S-e
LINGERIE.
A
LINSEY.
A
"
term
fibres
for
into
spinning
a
thread.
denote
to
mixed
coarse
flax
III.'
Chapter
"
TERMS.
hackled
or
of linen
good quality
LINEN."
OF
collars,cufis
material
of
linen, muslin,
linen
of
and
warp
"c.
worsted
weft.
LINSEY-WOOLSEY
is
material
a
combination
of
linen
and
woollen.
LIST.
"
The
selvedge
LONGCLOTH.
fine
A
"
smoothed
for
LOONGHIE
bleached
A
STATE.
"
24
to
gassing
"c.
(Plain
silk
its
Used
process.
or
twill texture.)
about
cotton,
or
surface
"
four
in. wide.
36
delivered
Cloth
with
a
of coloured
garment
"
cloth
cotton
shirtings,underlinen,
"
material.
woven
a
by undergoing
yards long by
LOOM
of
edging
or
loom
the
from
direct
not
"finished."
LUSTRE.
A
"
mixed
merino
wool
IVIADAPOLAMS.
fVIATELASSE.
A
"
used
MELANGE
for
mixed
MELTON
CLOTH.
"
MOLESKIN.
but
A
or
or
"
cloth.
cloth
with
compound
a
weave,
vestings.
multi-coloured
else
thread,
printed
produced
from
upon.
for men's
of cloth
make
stout
wear,
neither
finished."
nor
hair
The
"
A
"
"
mohair,
material
all
;
wool.
Hosiery,
wool
and
mixed.
cotton
MOHAIR.
mantlings
dress
For
"
figured
dyed fibres, or
pressed
MERINO.
calico
coarse
heavy
YARNS.
and
warp
weft
A
"
of fine cotton
material
A
the
or
fustian
back
wool
cloth,
of fabric
the
from
in
is
"
Angora
the
which
raised
"
or
goat.
is not
weft
made
"
cut,
nappy."
GLOSS
CLOTH.
MOMIE
MOQUETTE.
-A
A
"
pile carpet
"
Sometimes
woollen
Ivnotted
of
crape.
tufts.
material, slightly stiffened.
Union
"
watered
and
warp
weft, resembling
composed
stout.
coarse,
of cotton
woollen
and
93
TERMS.
OF
composed
silk warp
or
"
MOREEN.
Material
"
weft,
AHY
plain, used
or
petticoats and
for
upholstery.
MULL.
A
"
plain
yarns
MUNGO.
wool
and
MUSLIN.
cloth
plain
Muslins
for
cheapening
yarns
shoddy.
"
and
fabric, light
woven
often
are
used
product,
waste
woollen
^A
"
finely spun
.
A
"
fabric, light texture,
cotton
woven
with
figured
in
open
lappet
or
texture.
embroidery
threads.
MUSLIN-DE-LAIN.
and
A
"
as
and
CLOTH.
OATMEAL
linen
ORLEANS
"
to
a
cloths
obtained
for worsteds.
lawn, but
narrower
used
for
corsets
are
during
(Also, see
the
Silk
process
of
Noil, Chapters
cloth, plain
Rough
"
Graduated
CLOTH.
SHIRTING."
to
woollen
and
material.
surface
A
crape.
materials,
woven
applied
term
to
with
cotton,
goods.
tints
"
woollen
woven
qualities.
effects
fine cotton
OXFORD
similar
twills.
fibres
Bunting
CLOTHS.
"
cotton.
cotton
nankeen
in various
similar
OMBRE.
all-wool
III.j
"
Made
jean
short
combing
II.
NUNS'
drab
called
Wool,
"
with
cloth
light cotton
The
"
"
mixed
material, sometimes
rule.
a
often
NOILS.
light muslin
sometimes
NAINSOOK.
NANKEEN.
A
"
to
give
A
plain
texture
warp
and
worsted
See
colour
shaded
for
dress
effects.
material,
weft, dyed various
"Shirting,"
also
Fig.
12.
with
colours.
94
GLOSSAHY
PLAIN
CLOTH.
The
"
PAPOON."
-A coloured
"
"
the
of
warp
with
obtain
to
cloth
of
fabric, principally exported
weave,
weft
method
chapter.)
cotton
Plain
and
firmest
"
weaving
woven
East.
to
TERMS.
and
simplest
(See
texture,
OF
different
shot
solid
colours
effects, and
highly
finished.
PARAMATTA.
A
"
worsted
kind
bombazine
of
Used
weft.
cloth.
dress
as
Cotton
warp,
material
mourning
and
waterproofing.
PERCHING.
"
woollen
PILOT
CLOTH.
"welts
from
fine yarns
slacker
"
See
"
PIRLE
PLUSH.
"
ladies'
"
silk
A
a
silk
and
with
texture,
is not
the
fabric
fabrics
cotton
"
pile
coarse
warp
grey
cloth, principally
It
"c.
has
"
a
"
mohair
"
weft.
a
"
for
to
and
or
from
weaving
give
threads
raised
a
inserted.
ties, "c.
ribbed
Irish
"
cotton
plush,"
"c.
closely set
in the
warp
"
poplin
A
printing
is
common
fabric
as
There
weft.
or
warp
"
Irish
finish.
showerproof
made
from
a
term
used
in
produced
above.
"
Real
on
a
"
plain
poplin
poplin.
lightly-constructedplain
state
warp,
threads
weft,
coarse
pick,
wear,
by
weft.
worsted
for
and
plush,"
fine
with
ribs
fabrics."
produced
"
small
other, produced
stuffing weft
dress
pile
essentially
A
faults.
woollen
the
reed
unshrinkable
plush,"
plain
and
PRINTERS.
"
long
to
the
summer
"
"
in
thicker
on
An
"
for
overcoats,
tight backing
the
chapter
is
POPLIN.-
for
A
"
the
over
FINISH.
selvedge
closely set
than
form
For
quilting.
fabric, having
cotton
one
"
Used
PILE.
white
a
"
for
skins,"
mole-
as
side.
one
Usually
"
strong twilled
mariners
by
"
inspection
"
such
"
perched
or
means
blue
fabrics,
"
"
it
Indigo
on
nap
behind
nap
goods
"
"
a
swansdown,"
used
PIQUE.
"
Raising
"
cotton
purposes.
cloth
woven
in
96
GLOSSARY
REEDY
CLOTH."
threads
Reed
do
A
"
from
RUSSEL
CORD.
-A
"
gowns,
and
the
over
SACKCLOTH.
back
warp
distributed.
piece
in
thus
are
dent
one
in
thin
a
which
material
used
"c., usually
of
layer
between
or
for
rubber
fabrics.
two
scholastic
of
mixtiire
a
the
cotton
material.
-Coarse
"
the
group.
cloth
repp
coats,
the
fabric,
by
of the
corded
summer
wool
next
is effected
which
threads
"water-proofed"
imperviousness
either
the
of
of
groups
in
uniformly
lengthways
the
to
cloth
be
to
appear
distinct
PROOF.
TERMS.
looking
lines
or
owing
keeping
"
bare
not
marks,
caused
RUBBER
"
A
OF
bale
for
sheeting
and
wrapping
bag
making.
SATEENS.
SATIN.
See
"
A
"
SATIN
similar
FACE.
meaning
woollen,
SAXONY.
SCRIM.
Cheviot
A
"
curtains,
SERGE
TWILL.
with
(See chapters
cotton,
silk
on
goods
for
term
wool
merino
distinguish
to
wools.
linen
or
for
material
canvas
sieves,
"c.
A
"
goods.
fabrics.)
jute
coarse
silk
to
fabric
face
warp
weft.
distinguishing
from
applied
sateens,
silk
a
compound
A
"
to
other
or
weaving."
on
Usually
"
and
"
chapter
bold
diagonal
A
twill.
twill worsted
coarse
cloth.
SHANTUNG
SILK."
SHALLOONS.
A
"
SHEETINGS.
loosely
linings and
coat
"
A
twilled
woven
double
plain,
in
Bolton
are
in the
the
"
for
as
bleached
made
bed
"
grey
sheetings
also
worsted
warp,
fabric, largely used
sold
They
sHk.
used
stuff
for
dresses.
stout,
cotton
"
Chinese
Undyed
are
as
usually
in linen
clothings.
sheetings,"
grey
state
twill
or
yams.
bleached
made
of
and
woven
times
Sometimes
some-
sheetings.
good
yarns.
OF
GLOSSARY
COLOURED.^
SHIRTINGS,
coloured
ground
with
weave,
also
introduced.
twill
ground,
"
flannel,"
wefts.
grey
or
small
well-bound
union,"
"
other
two
and
effects
"
also
are
are
and
two
a
of
plain
Figures
figure
There
and
and
warp
shirting,
of
styles
"
weft.
white
coarse
sateen,
makes
different
taped
a
Harvard
with
mostly white
"
shirting is
Oxford
designs.
fabrics, with
cotton
woven
zephyr,
different
grandrelle shirtings represent
and
"
Harvard,
-Oxford,
"
97
TERMS.
woollen,"
"
material
mixed
shirtings.
made
and
Grey
SHODDY."
See
Chapter
MATERIALS.
"
"
"
shot
SHOWERPROOF.
effect
A
A
"
SILVALIN.
shower.
grey
twill
yarn
A
warp
sateen
shirting, sky
WEAVE.
sponge
of
open
"
STOCKINETTE
"
net
or
CLOTH."
Bradford
such
"
the
"
satin
waterproof
become
to
"
or
impervious
fabric, usually printed
woven
produced.
striped
grounds,
grey
method
of
loose
for
are
texture,
An
liostres."
"
or
tised
for
spun
(See Chapter
elestic
of mixed
cotton
cotton
on
soft
coarse
materials.
gauze
mechanically
silk.
interlacing
"
and
cotton
common
weft.
dress
"
products
"
as
prepared
coloured
blue
Silk threads
raw
"
mechanically
cloths
in
"
necessarily
suitable
yarns,
"
SILK.
A
"
"
very
in
warp
threads.
highly finished.
paper
spun
the
weft
the
to
pronounced
sateen
A
"
colour
more
not
"
or
stripes, and
"
SKYTEEN.
STUFFS.
is
fabric
rain
a
in
SPUN
different
a
which
in
material,
woven
raiaproof," but
to
SPONGE
sized."
weaves.
"
"
exportation,
"
sateen
or
SILESIA.
of
are
and
cotton
for
usually
are
II.
^A
"
threads
The
"
shirtings
both
in
yarns
shirtings are
cotton
heavily
are
Bleached
GREY."
medium
and
fine
from
linen.
SHOT
AND
BLEACHED
SHIRTINGS"
Waste
"
cross
cleaning
from
the
woven,
purposes.
"
waste
silks, "c.)
fabric.
and
wool
mat-erials
"
98
GLOSSARY
SWANSDOWN.
A
"
raised
a
SWIVELS."
TAFFETA.
A
"
iVlso
TAMMIES.
plain
See
Uncut
TEXTILES.
in
A
A
"
highly
of
TINSEL.^
TISSUES.
TOILET
fustian
"
A
yarns
or
general
Short
bold
OR
pure
are
andi
to
those-
carpets.
material
any
produced.
wiry
yarns,
woven
")."
Often
made
sometimes
withu
of
to
gold
or
silv^er threads
^
materials.
woven
fabrics
cotton
satin,
or
constructed,
honeycomb
of
flax, for spinning into weft
"
seldom
An
material, plain and
bonnets,
imitation
or-
hackled."
tulle
"
figured, used
for-
"c.
"
cast
artificial
from
woven.
best
all-wool
obtained
thread,
with;
bedticking,
and
sized,
material
fibres
SILK."
plain, and
The
for
(See Quilts.)
TUSSAH
woven
"
to
Brussels
or
striped patterns.
"
applied
term
coarse
fine silk
silk, not
TWEEDS.
warp
similar
loops,
toilet, pique, patent
to
linen
(" CAST
TUSSORE
worsted
fabric, used
veils, dressing trimmings,
TULLE
from
towels
Specially designed
"
and
coarser
A
materials.
or
applied
thin, loosely woven
A
"
other
weft.-
weft.
quilt weaving.
TULLE.
Turkish
and
warp
COVERS.
"
woollen
bmiting."
threads
face
coloured
similarly
TOW.
and
warp
cloth.
warp
cotton
"
with
VIII.
pile
term
"
to
Chapter
general
linen
"
made
similar
of
close
a
fabric
cotton
loom.
a
THICKSET."
TICKS.
for
term
surface
A
"
used
warp
the
on
material, silk
material
weft,
TAPESTRIES."
closely-woven
V.
woven
loosely
a
TERMS.
its back.
Chapter
cotton
"
and
on
-Twilled
"
TERRY,
heavy
nap
See
OF
so
power
yarns
sometimes
loom
of
by dyeing
that
Indian
solid
wild
printed.
Scotch
tweeds
good staple.
the
and
wool
mixed
Usuall5r
Brownish
colour-
made
from
coloured
yarns
are
The
before
silks.
spinning
coloured
it into
yarns
a
or
melange yams
"skilful blending
a
The
material.
of the
construction
in the
accomplishing
for
produced
be
can
99
TERMS.
OF
GLOSSARY
only lightly felted or milled, due to the yams
The
designs are usually
liaving been previously dyed.
is
fabric
of
subdued
a
twill
basis, with
weave
"
and
of the
in many
other
low-class
mungo,
or
fabric
together.
Irish
"homespun"
in
coloured
weft,
walking
for
surface
TYRE
good
of
threads
are
strain.
The
undue
tube
Usually
or
and
VELVETEEN.
"
"
A
popular
also
See
interlacing
of
diagonal
line
on
its
A
the
tyre when
in
warp
a
great
prevent
to
threads
warp
action
the
to
of
use.
and
woollen
set
the
on
due
"
of
material,
cotton
is formed
with
Silk
finished
Pure
cloths
without
filling."
(See chapter
usually.
friction
straight
bear
to
openly
very
lie
fabric
cotton
fabric
together
are
The
tyre.
a
folded
slackly
strong
lining
set
cutting by
"
"
or
pilesurface
cut.
for
yarns
cotton.
"
dressing
for
threads
MATERIAL.
"
from
closely
mixture
a
and
linen
UNDRESSED
VELVET.
weft
should
inflated
or
"
Very
method
uniform
a
cotton,
very
pressure
^which
"
self-
or
grey
costumes.
the
made
fabric
A
"
yarns
UNION.
The
.
CLOTHS.^
"
a
effect.
and
which
describes
weft
with
warp
in
in
coarser
tweed.
Harris
fabric,
A
''
wool
tweeds.
dyed
wool
suits
golfing
or
and
"
with
speckled pattern
a
Bannockburn
CLOTH.
mixed
and
is
Scotch
woven,
"
the
holding
pure
cloth
best
the
to
also
thoiigh firmly woven,
in textiire
quality
shoddy,
"
are
The
and
named
in
assist
tweeds
fabrics.
ing
lack-
are
from
latter
to
richness
a
tweeds
produced
These
usually plain
give
to
cloth, which
cotton
open
warp
the
coarse
a
is
There
often
Donegal
more
is
texture
TWILL
with
mixed
on
Yorkshire-made
extract.
be
is
texture
yarns.
about
imitations,
might
inferior
"
cheaper
wool
appearance,
the
coarse
feel
woolly
pure
and
and
character,
produced
by
on
a
velvet
"
weft
to
velvet.
imitate
The
floats," being afterwards
pile fabrics.)
silk
warp
would
pile
be
"
but
all
a
cotton
silk."
back
100
GLOSSARY
VELOURS
WOOL.
"
for
dressing
made
VICUNA.
VISCOSE."
for
"
A
Plain
Also
from
wild
a
animal
FACED
of
and
gassed
"
a
Used
mixture
in
the
weft
of
light fabric, usually made
cotton
silk, or
or
yarns,
worsted
weaves."
sateen
CLOTH.
side
CLOTHS.
short
or
A
of
which
than
fibre
from
or
heavy,
stout
twisted, strong
hemp
all flax,
binding purposes
ELASTIC.
worsted,
"c.,
strands
WEFT
SATEEN.
WEFT
PILE."
"
See
See
"
workmen's
the
weaves.'
"pile fabrics."
of
also
of
threads
of india-rubber.
"sateen
the
of
made
of
for
mixed
coarse,
articles
form
yarns,
used
such
silk, mohair,
of
which
evenly
materials
bags and
are
as
belts,
straps
sometimes
tool
braid
woven
between
is
such
on
in
cotton
made
jute,
or
-A
from
spun
and
strong
is sometimes
texture
on
sofas,
folded
coarse
hemp,
"
"picks
or
weft
Used
yarns.
webbing
lighter
A
slings.
threads
coarse
fabric,
nosebags, rugs, chairs, and
straps, or slings.
A
weft
greater
a
cotton.
width"
flax
contains
cloth.
made
"narrow
with
made
fabric
threads
Fabrics
waste
"
A
"
of warp
face
the
"
material.
Chapter IV.
See
on
all-wool
"pile fabrics."
See
"
twill
weave.
See
"
proportion
WEBBING
colours.
wear.
lustrous
folded
fine
PILE.
of
in various
yarn.
composed
open
very
WARP
WEBBING.
flannel, used
wool.
and
SATEEN.
WASTE
silk
material
^A
"
WARP
WARP
"nappy"
obtained
nature,
dress
yarns.
"
soft
a
summer
from
WARP.
"c., made
lightly-constructed
cotton
VOILE.
thick
cotton.
of
A
"
A.
and
gowns,
Artificial
VIGOGNE.
soft
TERMS.
Peru.
in
VI YELL
in
Wool
"
A
"
OF
or
or
for
like.
cotton,
laced
inter-
GLOSSARY
Chapter IV.
See
WEFT."
CLOTH.
FACED
WEFT
weft
threads
CORD.
on
the
face
at
weave
of the
closeness
corded
a
WIDOWS'
effect, which
light and
is in
warp
diagonal
LAWN.
with
diagonal
The
gives the pattern
emphasised
the
when
colours.
in dark
weft
bold
a
threads
warp
muslin,
linen
A
"
warp
forty-fivedegrees.
is further
the
than
cloth.
of
greater angle than
a
greater
a
"picks"
or
constructed
material
^A
"
threads
side
contains
which
fabric
A
"
of
proportion
WHIP
101
TEEMS.
OF
clear
very
and
in
even
texture.
CARPET."
WILTON
WINCEY.
qualities of all-wool
Low
"
Chapter IX.
See
of wool
and
textures
and
cotton.
CLOTHS.
WIGAN
in
EXTRACT."
WOOL
WOOLLEN
WORSTED
II.
spun
distinct
Yarns
In
woollen
threads
fibres
the
fabrics
woven
than
combed."
which
in
attempt
any
"
not
yarns,
spun
parallel.
more
without
yams
parallel.
Wool
"
combed
appear
Chapter
fibres
YARNS.
are
materials.
Wool
"
the
keep
to
"
See
YARNS.
made
goods
cotton
grey
named.
All-wool
"
qualities of
district
the
"
WOLSEY.
Good
"
the
for
threads
producing
patterns.
WORSTED
CLOTHS.
fibre
weft
will
than
clotlis
be
the
"
not
are
for
finer
are
yarns
and
woven
suitable
cloths
worsted
Fine
"
high class
"
suitings, costumes,
and
for
case
felted
closer
"
set
woollen
like
in
the
of
"c.
The
warp
and
"
Worsted
cloths.
many
wool
new
the
woollen
cloths.
ZEPHYRS.
"
Lightly-constructed
finished
cotton
and
the
shirtings.
Heywood
and
state,
pure
and
yarns,
zephyrs
John
in
closely
There
woollen
Ltd.,
coloured
Excelsior
are
woven
cloths,
well
with
fine
principally woven
woven.
also
silk
Used
for
and
cotton
blousings
zephyrs.
Printing
Manchester.
and
Bookbinding
Works.
woven