What Is Honba Yuki-Tsumugi？
The creation of Honba Yuki-Tsumugi is a process that involves using one's whole body to
weave floss silk from 80 thousand points of Kasuri-shibari with the use of a Jibata.
Though it may appear unsophisticated at first glance, the fabric is the product of
unimaginable expert techniques.
Production Area : Oyama City, Tochigi; and Yuki City, Ibaraki.
Area Map
Route
294
NewRoute
4
Route 4
Jibata
Ibaraki
Kinu River
Tochigi
Route 50
JR Mito
｢ Tukubaneno Shinkuwamayono
Koromoaredo
Kimigamikeshishi Ayanikihoshimo 」
JR
UtsunomiyaMito
OyamaStation
Kokai River
～
Manyoushyu Azumauta
Yuki-
－　1　－
History
"Ashiginu" and "Ayaginu" have been weaving ever since the Nara period；the liege of
those in Yuki City paying tribute to Muromachi-Bakufu of the Muromachi Period.
In the Edo Period, a new liege of Inabizennokami invited weavers from Ueda, Shinano;
and introduced the Ryujou-Tsumugi technique, resulting in what began to be called
"Yuki-Tsumugi", presented to Shogunate as a specialty product of the domain.
The latter part of the Edo Period saw Japan's rigid rules begin to fade, and, as a result
of even commoners now being able to get their hands on fine goods such as silk,
Yuki-Tsumugi was spreading throughout Japan for both fashionable and everyday
wear.
The end of the Keio Era (1865〜68) saw the adoption of the Kasuri technique, and the
name quickly became well-known. Following this, the Chijimi-technique was
developed in the Meiji Period, and weaving developed into more of a modern style,
known as "Saikumono", towards the end of the Taisyo Period.
Tsumugi-technique started out as a means to make kimonos for the farming
population, from silk of not a high enough quality to be sold commercially. However, in 1956
Yuki-tsumugi was designated as an important intangible cultural heritage, and as a
traditional craft products in 1977. As a result, Yuki-Tsumugi now make for very
expensive Kimonos.
－　2　－
Creating the Fabric for Yuki-Tsumugi・・・・
What elements are needed to create the fabric
for
Yuki-Tsumugi？
Mulberry leaves
approximately 90kg
Cocoons
２０００～２５００
Floss silk
８-hakari
So, how isYuki-Tsumugi
Silk-thread
８-bocchi
made from all of this？
－　3　－
The Process of Making Honba Yuki-Tsumugi Fabric
Making threads
Floss silk is 100% natural silk. The structure of silkworms have many
outstanding characteristics that result in the silk being well-protected from
the effects of water.
Kuda-maki
The spun thread is rolled
through a pipe and wheel.
Shaken
The cocoons are boiled
with bicarbonate soda.
Mawata-kake
The pupas are removed from the
Ito-tsumugi
boiled cocoons and spread out like a pouch.
The resulting floss silk is spun.
Silk is typically said to be robust and durable as a
result of strong twisting of the threads. YukiTsumugi silk, however, is one that undergoes no
such twisting, and this type is not seen anywhere
else in the world.
To master the proper technique requires years of
practice. To make one bolt of fabric, alone, takes
－　4　－
Kaseage
The threads are then
rolled over a reel,
known as a"Kase"
Pattern
Indigo Dyeing
A plan for the design is created
Dyeing
Indigo sukumo
Indigo seeds are planted in spring, and then harvested and seasoned in
summer. Then, water is then added to them to ferment for approximately
three months, requiring a total of approximately 10 months to become a
dye known as "Sukumo".
Benefits of Indigo
The fabric is dyed in a basic
color
Nowadays, chemical dye is
predominantly used, though pure indigo
may also be used for certain parts.
- Makes the fiber more durable
- Repels insects and eliminates odors
- Protects the skin from disease and ultraviolet rays
－　5　－
Making "Kasuri"
Tatewaku-makitori
Sumi-tsuke
The threads are wound over a large
A spot is marked for binding,
for the "Kasuri" stage.
“Kasuri-shibari”.
The mark is then bound with
known as "Kasuri-shibari".
the threads
Tataki-zome
Tataki-zome
Dyeing is done through a process of
beating. The bounded marks,
however, are not dyed, becoming a
part of the "Kasuri" pattern.
Kasuri-hogusi
Once the dyeing is
completed, the Kasuri threads
are removed.
－　6　－
Gara-awase
Kasuri threads are arranged one by
one to ensure the alignment of the
pattern.
Preparation
Yokokasuriito-taguri
Shita-nori-tsuke
The woof of the Kasuri is wound
to a "Taiko" drum, and through
Starch is applied lightly to make the
Kuda-maki
The "Ji-ito" threads are wound through
following stage easier to undertake.
a pipe.
a pipe.
Ji-ito-no-hatanobe
Hon-noritsuke
The silk is then stretched out to the
The threads are then starched
length of a Kimono with the threads
once more, but at a more
crossed over one another in order to
concentrated level.
later run through weaving instruments.
－　7　－
Taba-wake
The Ji-ito is separated again into
individual threads and their quantity
confirmed.
Kirikae
Ma-sasikomi
Osa-toshi
The Kasuri and Ji-ito threads are
Working in pairs, the Kasuri threads
then tied to make what is known
are in between the Ji-ito threads as
as "Aya".
Hata-maki
The threads are then combed
through an "Omaki".
The warps are then threaded through
a reed.
per design.
Mae-musubi
The threads are then separated into
small bundles and tied at the ends.
－　8　－
Kake-ito Kake
A special instrument is used to lift and
stretch the bottom thread over the top.
Weaving
Check
Finish
Weaving
Check
The threads are then weaved with
the use of a "Jibata".
The fabric is strictly checked at
15 points.
Finish
Often called "arrangement work", the
starch is removed from fabric which has
been selected by a buyer for kimono use.
The Honba-Yuki-Tsumugi is light, warm, This process returns the characteristics
Features of the
durable, and becoming increasingly more
of Yuki-Tsumugi.
“Honba-Yuki-Tsumugi”. stylish through many generations of
production.
The high level of「moisture absorbtion and retention」is unique to this natural fibre
resulting in it causing far less sweat than other fabrics when worn in high humidity.
The three processes of spinning, Kasuri-shibari, and weaving are
designated as an important intangible cultural heritage in Japan.
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