Classifications of Haircolor
Four basic categories of haircolor,
chemical effect on the hair, and
examples of use
Objective :
You will be learn how each category of
haircoloring has a unique chemical
composition, which, in turn, affects the
final color result and how long it will
last, due to hair porosity
Four categories
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Temporary
Semi-permanent
Demi-permanent
Permanent
Hair Highlighting
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Often referred to as “ bleaching” or
decolorizing “
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Diffuses natural or artificial color pigment from
hair
Contains developer
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an oxidizing agent
Also contains an alkalizing ingredient
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Opens cuticle so tint can penetrate
Oxidation reaction
Lightening action
“
Temporary color
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Deposit only
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No lasting effect on color of the hair
Physical change only
No patch test required
Coats the hair shaft
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Pigment molecules are large and do not
penetrate the cuticle layer
Temporary color
Advantages
 Chief advantage
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does not alter the structure of the hair
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doesn’t if affect the client’s own natural color
Gives temporary color for clients who do not want
permanent color
Quick and easy to apply, washes out easily,
Enhance & add brighter tones to dull, mousey hair
Blends in a certain amount of gray with natural shades
Neutralizes any unwanted tones in the hair
Correct faded color until the client arranges for a more
permanent solution
Temporary color
Disadvantages
 Must be reapplied after every shampoo
 Color results may be uneven, especially if enough rinse is
not applied
 Color will run w/moisture or perspiration, rub off on pillow
and clothing
 Flake off when the hair is brushed or combed
 Damaged hair will cause temporary color to penetrate the
cuticle and uneven color will be evident
 Deposit only, they cannot lift or lighten color
 Often hair is dull and lacks sheen
Types of Temporary color
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Color rinses
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Last from shampoo to shampoo
Certified colors ( FDA approved )
Coat the hair shaft
Color-enhancing shampoo
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Consist of shampoo & mixed w/ color pigment
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Blend color tones
Brighten
Impart slight color
Neutralize unwanted shades
Types of Temporary color
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Color mousses and gels
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Slight color or dramatic effects
Styling aids
Crayons, sprays & mascara
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Crayons
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Sprays
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Retouch new growth
Lipstick
Usually bright, party colors,applied directly to dry hair
Mascara
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Facial makeup
Theater
Semi-permanent Color
They partially penetrate the hair shaft and stain the cuticle
layer because pigment molecules are smaller
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Formulated to last 6 – 8 shampoos, depending on
porosity of hair
Gentle, self-penetrating, washes gradually
No line of demarcation
Chemical & physical change
Patch test ?
No peroxide is used
Semi-permanent color
Advantages
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Structure of the hair is not affected
o
o
o
o
o
Blending gray hair
Introduce client to more permanent methods of hair coloring
enhance natural hair color by adding tone & depth
Formulated as toners for pre-lightened hair
Safer to use on clients who are sensitive or allergic to
paraphenylenediamine
o
o
Little or no damage
Color molecule made from coal tar
Clients during pregnancy
Semi-permanent color
Disadvantages
o
o
o
o
o
Limited shades of the older formulas
Color is not long lasting, needs repeated applications
depending on frequency of shampoos
Porosity of hair will effect how soon it fades, and off-shades
after several shampoos
Rarely provides sufficient coverage on gray hair
Cannot lift hair
o
Enhances original color or darkens only
•Level 1, semi-permanent color -- This
product adds color without changing natural color
dramatically. The hair color contains tiny color
molecules that enter the hair's cuticle, or outer
layer, and go into your hair's cortex. They don't
interact with your natural pigments. And since the
molecules are small, they eventually exit the hair
shaft after several shampoos, leaving the hair as
it was before treatment. This level generally lasts
for 6 to 12 shampoos, covers up to 50 percent
gray, enhances your natural color and leaves no
roots. This hair coloring won't lighten your hair
color because it contains no ammonia or
peroxide.
Demi-permanent color
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Also called deposit-only color and is referred to as
semi-permanent by some manufacturers
Last longer than semi-permanent
Deposits color; no lift
Smaller pigment molecules that penetrate the hair
shaft
 Patch test required due to low-ammonia
Demi-permanent color
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Less aggressive, less damaging
Vivid colors
Used in conjunction with permanent color to help
fight the buildup effect
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mid-hair shaft to ends while permanent color is applied to
new growth only
•Level 2, demi-permanent color -- This product
level lasts longer, through 24 to 26 shampoos. In
this process, pre-color molecules penetrate the
cuticle and enter the cortex where they then
partner to create medium-sized color molecules.
Their larger size means they take longer to wash
out. These products do not contain ammonia so
the natural pigment can't be lightened. However,
it contains a small amount of peroxide, which
allows for a subtle, but noticeable, color
enhancement. It also blends and covers gray.
(Both semi- and demi-permanent colors can
become permanent on permed or already-colored
hair!)
Permanent color
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Permanent haircolor is mixed with a oxidizing agent called
hydrogen peroxide ( developer )
Also called
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Metallic dyes & vegetable dyes
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oxidation tints
penetrating tints
aniline derivatives tints
Permanent color
Limited in today’s market
Contains aniline derivatives
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Uncolored dye precursors which are very small compounds that
diffuse into the hair shaft
Permanent color
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Both the hair’s natural color and the applied color undergo a
chemical change
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Almost any shade can be achieved
Designed to remain in the hair until it grows out
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Molecules are trapped within the cortex and cannot be shampooed
out
A line of demarcation will be evident as the hair grows out
Requires a patch test
Chemical & physical change
Permanent color
Advantages
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Simultaneously remove natural pigment while adding
artificial color in one application
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resulting in a natural-looking color
Used to match, lighten, and cover gray hair
Hair is not coated so your client can receive other
chemical services
Penetrates to the cortex layer of the hair
Permanent color
Disadvantages
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Patch test must be given prior to every application
Due to chemical change the hair must reconditioned and
carefully maintained
Natural pigment is altered
To remove the effects of a tint
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A tint remover
Re-tint to camouflage
Cut the hair to remove it
Color can fade with time & shampooing, to off-color or harsh
tones
•Level 3, permanent color -- This is what you need for a
more significant color change (to go from black to blond,
you'll still need to go with a process called double process
blonding and it'd be wise to get this it done professionally).
In this level, both ammonia and peroxide are used. Tiny
molecules enter all the way into the cortex, where they react
and expand to a size that cannot be washed out. Your hair
actually has to grow out over time. This product acts to
lighten the hair's natural pigment to form a new base and
then to add a new permanent color. The end result is a
combination of your natural hair pigment and the new shade
you chose. That means the color may appear different on
you than on someone else using the same color. (That's why
the "strand test" is so important -- more about that later.)
Regular touch-ups of 4 to 6 weeks are generally needed to
eliminate roots -- hair with your natural color growing at half
an inch per month from your scalp.
Worksheet Review
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Classifications of haircolor
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A.
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How long does it last?
Chemical action on the hair
Advantages
Disadvantages
Worksheet
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B.
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How long does it last?
Chemical action
Advantages
Disadvantages
Worksheet
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C.
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How long does it last?
Chemical action
Advantages
Disadvantages
Worksheet
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D. Ability of the hair to absorb moisture
E.
F.
G.
Worksheet
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H.
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How long does it last?
Chemical action
Advantages
Disadvantages
Worksheet
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I. Over lapping layers of the cuticle
scales are also called…..
J. What action takes place when the
color and peroxide are combined….
Summary
We have discussed how haircolor is generally
classified by its ability to last. Temporary color
is just that; it is removed by shampooing.
Semi-permanent and demi-permanent color
lasts somewhat longer than temporary
haircolor and bridges the gap to permanent
color.
Next lesson: Level System