JEANETTE JACKNIN, M.D.
www.drjacknin.com
1
JEANETTE JACKNIN, M.D.
Renowned Dermatologist Dr. Jeanette Jacknin is based in Scottsdale where she is Board
Certified and Licensed. She has distinguished herself as a well-respected physician and
author.
Dr. Jacknin authored the classic book, Smart Medicine for Your Skin, published by
Penguin Putnam in 2001 and now available at www.drjacknin.com.
In addition, Dr. Jacknin has contributed and consulted for an abundance of articles
published in numerous high profile magazines, such as Alternative Medicine, Body and
Soul, Better Homes and Gardens, Reader’s Digest, Men’s Health, Natural Health,
Natural Solutions, and Shape, She has been featured on radio programs like: Health
Talk, and The Deborah Ray Show and has recently produced a news segment for
national TV on the value of essential oils in skincare.
Dr. Jacknin is recognized as a “go-to” expert for the cosmeceutical ingredient industry,
with her 2008 articles in the industry trade journal In Cosmeceuticals on the latest
natural ingredients which have been shown to topically reduce the signs of aging.
Botanicals are ‘in’
The big thing in anti-aging cosmeceuticals is ‘green’:
POMEGRANATE
ACAI
SOY
GOGI
COFFEEBERRY
MANGOSTEEN
SEA BUCKTHORN
BLUE-GREEN ALGAE
ROOBIOS TEA
RED ALGAE
EVODIA
BROWN ALGAE
3
Anti-Aging
• Mucocutaneous inflammation is the final common pathway of many
systemic and cutaneous diseases including extrinsic aging 1
• Oral and topical antioxidants to fight inflammation should be a part of
every anti-aging skin care regimen
• Of the over 8000 known antioxidant ingredients, less than 20 have been
incorporated into topical formulations which have been documented in
human clinical trials to reverse signs of extrinsic aging
4
Pomegranate
• Pomegranate was used
medicinally in the oldest
cultures of the Indus Valley,
ancient China, Old
Testament, and classical
Greece
• Pomegranate is important to
cosmeceutical development
with its clinically proven
anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-aging
properties
5
Pomegranate

Anthocyanins account for the red-purple color of the pomegranate
Punicalagin
Punicic acid
 Pomegranate juice is a rich source of punicalagin, a large polyphenol
antioxidant, and the major antioxidant component of pomegranate
 Pomegranate seeds are a good source of punicic acid.
6
Pomegranate
• Pomegranate shows remarkable
preventive potential against two of the
major chronic diseases of aging –
heart disease and cancer
• There is evidence of the
pomegranate's impact on heart
disease, including its ability to enhance
nitric oxide production in
endothelial cells 2
7
Pomegranate
• Significant anti-proliferative effects
of pomegranate have been shown in
severe breast cancer and prostate cancer 3, 4, 5
• Pomegranate has been shown
to slow tumor growth in animals
8
Pomegranate
• Pomegranate seed oil was shown to stimulate keratinocyte proliferation
- a mild thickening of the epidermis was observed
• Pomegranate peel extract stimulated type I procollagen synthesis and
inhibited dermal fibroblast production of matrix metalloproteinase
which breaks down skin proteins, thereby regenerating the dermis
9
Pomegranate
Oral pomegranate as well as a
combination of topical and oral
pomegranate have both been
documented in double-blind
clinical trials to effectively
improve signs of extrinsic aging7
10
Pomegranate
Companies already using pomegranate in their cosmeceuticals
include Dr. Murad and Burt’s Bees
11
Soy
• Soy is also one of only 14 of the more
than 8000 documented antioxidant
ingredients that have been shown
topically to reverse signs of aging
in human clinical trials 8
• The soybean is a species of legume
that has been used in China for 5,000
years as a food and a component of drugs
12
Soy
• Anti-aging properties of soy are due
to the estrogen-type and antioxidant
effects of its metabolites, isoflavones
genistein and diadzein
•
Phytoestrogens may be beneficial
for healthy women; women with
known breast cancer should consider
avoiding consumption until more
information becomes available
13
Soy
• Topical soy improves
hyper-pigmentation,
elasticity, and moisture in
the skin 9
• Soy has been shown to
significantly inhibit mouse
skin carcinogenesis, and to
potently inhibit UVBinduced erythema in
human skin 10
14
Soy
Solbar and SunOpta have successfully used soy in their cosmetic
preparations
15
Coffeeberry
The Coffeeberry is the extract made from the grape-like, green,
fleshy cherry or coating around the coffee bean
16
Coffeeberry
• When the coffeeberry is harvested at the sub-ripe stage, it is rich
in 4 polyphenol antioxidants: chlorogenic acid, condensed
proanthocyanadins, quinic acid and ferulic acid
Base unit of ferulic acid
• The coffee cherry extract has an oxygen radical absorbance
capacity (ORAC) between 15,000 and 17,500.
17
Coffeeberry
• The coffeeberry has been
shown to make one's skin
smoother, even skin tone, and
diminish the appearance of
fine lines
• RevaleSkin coffeeberry
products showed significant
improvement in patients’
hyperpigmentation, fine lines,
wrinkles, and overall
appearance in Steifel’s double
blind study
18
Coffeeberry
Thus, Steiffel’s Revaleskin is first-to-market with the wonderful
benefits of coffeeberry, but expect many more companies to
incorporate this valuable ingredient soon
19
Sea Buckthorn
• Sea Buckthorn or Hippophae
Rhamnoides is well known in
China, Russia and Europe
• Small, bright orange berries
• Sea Buckthorn seed oil,
unique for its omega-7
content, is fantastic for
making hair and skin
luxurious and shiny
20
Sea Buckthorn
• The ancient Greeks used it as food
for race horses, thus the botanical
name Hippophae ("shiny horse")
• Cherished for centuries for their truly incredible healing and
nutritive qualities, sea buckthorn is an essential part of the
Indian Ayurveda, the Chinese Pharmacopeia, and the Tibetan
Sibu Yidian written 800 A.D. 13
21
Sea Buckthorn
• Sea Buckthorn berries have an extremely high content of :
vitamin C
carotenoids (pro-vitamin A)
tocopherols (vitamin E)
phylloquinone (vitamin K1)
beta-sitosterol
22 fatty acids ( omega 3, 6, 7, 9)
36 kinds of flavonoids and phenols
190 varieties of bioactive substances 14
22
Sea Buckthorn
• The fatty acid profile of Sea Buckthorn berry oil is remarkably
rich in a rare monounsaturated fatty acid, palmitoleic acid, or
omega-7
Palmitoleic acid
• Sea buckthorn berry oil is similar to natural skin sebum lipids,
and provides important healing and anti-aging benefits for
problem skin
23
Sea Buckthorn
• Sea Buckthorn oil is anti-
inflammatory, anti-microbial,
analgesic, and regenerative
• A 2005 Indian animal study
found that the leaves promote
wound healing secondary to
increased antioxidant levels
in the tissues as they heal 15
• Sea Buckthorn oil has a long
folk history for burns.
• A 2006 study of 151 burn
patients found that the
topical oil accelerated healing
time and reduced swelling,
weeping, redness and pain 16
24
Sea Buckthorn
• In a 1999 study, dermatitis
sufferers were given 5g (10
capsules) of Sea Buckthorn
oil daily for four months, and
their dermatitis improved
significantly 17
• Sea Buckthorn seed oil is
already used to treat burns,
rosacea, acne, and eczema,
and is used in high-end
European skin care lines
25
Sea Buckthorn
•
•
•
•
Already incorporating Sea Buckthorn oil in the U.S. are:
Aubrey Organics' Sea Buckthorn Moisturizing Cream
Aubrey Organics’ Rejuvenating Antioxidant Serum
Weleda's Sea Buckthorn Body Oil
Dr. Hauschka's Shampoo with Apricot and Sea Buckthorn
26
Rooibos Tea
• Rooibos means red bush, a
word given by the Dutch
Afrikaaners to the plant,
whose leaves turn a reddish
color upon drying and
fermentation
• Rooibos tea, the only natural
source of the unique antiallergenic polyphenol,
aspalathin, is a naturally
valuable treatment for
sensitive dry skin in
newborns and the elderly
alike
27
Rooibos Tea
 The Rooibos plant has a
unique combination of antiinflammatory, anti-fungal,
anti-allergic, and antibacterial properties

Its effects have been shown
to successfully treat sensitive,
dry and problem skin types,
and heal common skin
ailments such as acne,
allergies, eczema, and
sunburn 18
28
Rooibos Tea
• Rooibos tea contains polyphenol antioxidants, including
flavonoids and that are potent free radical scavengers
QUERCETIN
LUTEOLIN
• Rooibos contains nine flavonoids which are responsible for most
of its remarkable health benefits. Two of these are quercetin and
luteolin
29
Rooibos Tea
• Another flavonoid is chrysoeriol (luteolin 3'-methyl ether),
known for antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antitumor,
antimicrobial, and antiviral properties 19
CHRYSOERIOL
• Rooibos is the only natural source of the unique polyphenol,
aspalathin which is known for its anti-allergic properties
ASPALATHIN
30
Rooibos Tea
• Studies show that Rooibos tea
can protect against damage to all
major components of cellular
proteins, fats, and DNA and
enhance the activity of certain
important carcinogendetoxifying enzymes in the
liver20
• The in vitro and in vivo animal
• Rooibos tea may also play a vital
role in the battle against
photoaging and skin cancer 21
and human studies suggest that
green tea polyphenols are
photoprotective in nature, and
can be used in the prevention of
photoaging, melanoma and
nonmelanoma skin cancers 22
31
Evodia Rutaecarpa
Evodia fruit , or Wu-shu-yu as it is known in China, is the small,
reddish-purple fruit of the plant Evodia rutaecarpa. This tree is
native to northern China and Korea.
32
Evodia Rutaecarpa
• Powerfully fragrant, these
small fruits smell pleasantly
like concentrated black
pepper
• The fruit, which is the part of
the plant used in healing, is
reddish when it appears in
August and darkens to black
by November
33
Evodia Rutaecarpa
Taken internally, evodia fruit is used to treat symptoms of
abdominal distress and is also used as a painkiller. Various
healers report that the fruit also has anti-inflammatory, antitumor, anti-viral, anti-mycobacterial, and astringent properties.
34
Evodia Rutaecarpa
• Evodia, with its anti-inflammatory quinazoline alkaloids,
significantly inhibits erythema in the skin after irradiation with
UVB
• Yarosh’s 2005 study found that a biomimetic mixture of Evodia
fruit extract significantly inhibited erythema in the skin after
irradiation with UVB 23
• These effects can be attributed to the quinazoline alkaloids
rutaecarpine, evodiamine, dehydroevodiamine, and evodin
which have been shown to have in vivo anti-inflammatory
activity 24, 25


Evodiamine
35
Evodia Rutaecarpa
• Evodia fruit is considered by herbalists to be slightly toxic, and
pregnant women should not use evodia
• DERMAdoctor, with her Aint Misbehavin Medicated Emergency
Acne Spot Treatment has already discovered the benefits of evodia
as an astringent in the treatment of acne
36
Acai
• Acai is from the acai palm, Euterpe oleraceae, indigenous to the
rainforests of Brazil. Brazilians have used it for years to treat
digestive and skin disorders
• Small, round, dark purple grape-like fruits about 1” in diameter
packed full of antioxidants, amino acids and essential fatty acids;
acai tastes like a vibrant blend of berries and chocolate.
37
Acai
 Recently voted #1 superfood on Oprah
26
 Acai is near the top of the antioxidant rankings or ORAC value
of any food, with any ORAC of 20,000

27
An
38
Acai
Acai contains a remarkable concentration of antioxidants that
help combat premature aging, with 10 times more antioxidants
than red grapes, twice as much as blueberries, and 30 times the
anthocyanins of red wine.
Anthocyanins , proanthocyanidins, and other flavonoids in acai
fight inflammation 29
39
Acai
Acai contains:
•
Vitamins and minerals - promote skin cell health
•
An almost perfect essential amino acid complex
•
Oleic (omega 9) and linoleic (omega 6) fatty acids
similar to olive oil - regenerates skin cell growth
•
Phytosterols help to preserve collagen and skin tone
40
Acai
•
•
•
•
Acai is already used in:
Borba’s Age Defying Concentrate
Fresh’s Sugar Acai Age-Delay Body Cream
Skinceuticals
NV Perricone
Caution : Topical products should only contain a modest amount
of açai, as a high concentration of it will stain the skin and hair 30
41
Gogi Berries
Gogi berries are bright orange-red, ellipsoid 1-2 cm long
Gogi berries are sweet and taste like raisins
42
Gogi Berries
• Gogi berries or Wolfberries come from China, Tibet and
Mongolia
• Wolfberry is the most commonly used English name, while gǒuqǐ
(枸杞) is the Chinese name for the berry producing plant.
43
Gogi Berries
• Gogi berries have been used in Traditional Chinese Medicine for
about 1900 years
• Since the 21st century in the U.S., there has been rapidly growing
recognition of gogi berries for their nutrient richness and
antioxidant qualities
44
Gogi Berries
• Gogi berries are believed to enhance immune system function,
increase the lifespan, and improve circulation
It is believed that Gogi berries have contributed to the freedom
from diseases like diabetes, high blood pressure, heart diseases,
stroke, and Alzheimer's disease in the people of Asia who have
been eating it
45
Gogi Berries
Gogi berries contain:
•
•
•
•
Antioxidants- rated at the top of the Oxygen Radical
Absorbance Capacity, or ORAC scale ( 20,200 units per 100
milligrams.) 31
Vitamin C - 500 x more by weight than an orange
Carotenoids – one of the richest food sources in the world
18 amino acids including all 8 essential amino acids
•
29 fatty acids
46
Gogi Berries
Functions of the building
blocks of Gogi berries:
• Antioxidants: antiaging
• Anti–inflammatory: calms
rosacea symptoms of
sensitivity, irritation, and
redness
• Deep-cleansing, detoxifying
& exfoliating
47
Gogi Berries
Gogi is already used in:
Dr. Murad's Redness Therapy™
Pangea Organics deep-cleansing, mask
48
Mangosteen
• Mangosteen is the exotic
edible fruit of the Garcinia
mangostana tree, a tropical
tree that grows 20-80 feet tall.
• One of the best-tasting of all
tropical fruits, sweet and
tangy, with a peach flavor
and texture
• Mangosteen also has a bright,
energizing, uplifting aroma
.
49
Mangosteen
The fruit consists of the pericarp, a thick
dark purple, smooth rind that encloses 4 to 8
triangular segments of snow-white, soft flesh
Mangosteen grows
widely throughout
Southeast Asia
Used in Thai folk
medicine for the
treatment of skin
infections and
wounds and to
nourish the skin
50
Mangosteen
• Mangosteen is known as "The Queen of all Fruit" because of its high
content of powerful antioxidants, with an ORAC value of 20,000
• Mangosteen peel consists of more xanthones than any other known source
• Xanthones have antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral properties,
including efficacy against Propionibacterium acnes and Staph aureus 32, 33
[
Xanthone
51
Mangosteen
• Mangosteen has been commonly used in soap, acne, and anti-
aging products in Asia for years
• In 2005-Martin Bauer North America introduced xanthosteen
3510 powder to use in cosmeceuticals 34
• Companies using mangosteen as an ingredient include:
Fresh brand
Borba’s Mangosteen Atomizer mist
52
Orac Values
25,000
20,000
†
ACAI
GOGI
15,000
MANGOSTEEN
10,000
POMEGRANATE
5,000
0
ORAC
COFFEEBERRY
ACAI
GOGI
MANGOSTEEN
POMEGRANATE
18,400
20,200
20,000
10, 500
COFFEE
BERRY
16,000
TE Per 100 mg
From chart entitled Top Antioxidant Foods, on page 48 of Discovery of the Ultimate Superfood by Gary
Young ND, Ronald Lawrence MD, PhD, Marc Schreuder; Essential Science Publishing; © July 2005.
53
Algae
• Green seaweed is believed to
increase collagen and elastin
production, and reduce the signs
of aging, dark circles, spider
veins, stretch marks, and
cellulite
• Used in moisturizers and beauty
products, red algae extract
works as a binder and also has
an anti-aging effect
• Brown algae has been shown to
control the signs of aging and
cellulite 35
54
Blue-Green Algae - Spirulina
• Spirulina is a single cell blue green algae that thrives in ponds
• This simple, one-celled plant is one of the main bases of the food
chain and of life on this planet
• It is 65% protein, and contains over 100 vitamins, minerals,
enzymes, chlorophyll, and essential fatty acids
55
Blue-Green Algae - Spirulina
• Spirulina reduces the effects of aging and improves longevity,
detoxifies the body, and boosts the immune system
• Spirulina is a primary source of beta-carotene on the planet
• Beta-carotene protects the skin against photosensitivity to
sunlight and is an antioxidant, protecting cells against harmful
environmental elements 36
56
Blue-Green Algae - Chlorella
• Chlorella is a green single-
celled algae about the size of a
red blood cell
• This life form emerged over
540 million years ago, and was
the first form of plant with a
well-defined nucleus
57
Blue-Green Algae-Chlorella
• Chlorella is one of the most efficient foods on earth in using and
concentrating sunshine, as shown by its high chlorophyll content
and rapid reproduction
• Chlorella is a natural, pure, whole food with all the materials to
support life
58
Blue-Green Algae-Chlorella
• Chlorella has the highest
known concentration of
chlorophyll in any edible
plant (2-3%)
• Chlorella reduces the effects
of aging, detoxifies the body,
and boosts the immune
system
• Chlorophyll also aids in tissue
repair and acts as an
antioxidant 37
59
Blue-Green Algae - Chlorella
• The chlorella growth factor (CGF) in the algae contains RNA,
DNA, amino acids, vitamins and minerals
• CGF has been shown to enhance immunity, reduce viruses ,
inhibit cancer cell growth and increase normal cell renewal 38
60
Blue-Green Algae - Chlorella
•
1% Chlorella shows a
restructuring effect on the
epidermis and dermis, thus
making it an excellent
firming ingredient
• 1% Chlorella significantly
decreased the color and shape
of stretch marks
• Chlorella is also able to help
restructure scarred skin and
aging skin tissue 39
61
Blue-Green Algae - Chlorella
• 1% Chlorella also visibly
decreased the redness of the
vascular lesions, and
improved the size and the
color of the spider veins of
trial patients
• Morvan’s study also showed
that 1% Chlorella worked on
dark circles, decreasing
pigmentation
 Thus, Morvan and VallTe’s
findings illustrate that
Chlorella is a useful cosmetic
ingredient for anti-aging,
dark circle, spider vein, anticellulite and anti-stretch
mark products 40
62
Red Algae
•
In a number of studies the red algae polysaccharide shield
surrounding the cell has demonstrated anti-inflammatory, anti• irritant, anti-oxidant, UV absorbance, and bio-lubricant properties
•
Thus, the red algae polysaccharide is an active and selective barrier,
accounting for its beneficial anti-aging effect in humans 41
63
Red Algae
The red algae polysaccharide
is fully soluble in water and
shows 60% solubility in
ethanol, making it an
excellent component for a
broad base of cosmetic
applications
64
Brown Algae
• In Morvan’s study, Laminaria
digitata brown seaweed extract
increased basal cellular and
mitochondrial respiration,
activated mitochondria,
increased ATP levels, and
restored the protein synthesis
by the aging skin cells
• Laminaria should be
considered as an important
anti-aging ingredient for
cosmetics 43
65
Algae
• Algae is only harvested at correct
times of the year when the seaweed
has a high mineral content
• Caution: algae contains iodine, a common
allergen, so a warning should be printed
on the label of any seaweed treatment 44
66
Algae
Algae-containing products include:
• Kerstin Florian’s Clarifying Spirulina Cleansing Gel
• Murad’s Refreshing Cleanser
• Pevonia’s Nymphea Seaweed Exfoliating Soap
• Bliss’ Serious Seaweed Cellulite Soap
• Peter Thomas Roth’s Rich Intensive Anti-Aging Crème
• SkinMedica’s Dermal Repair
67
PRICE COMPARISONS
PRICE
PRICE
Pomegranate
90% Ellagic
Acid
Soy40%
Isoflavones
$60/Kg
$65/kg
Coffeeberry
98% Chlorogenic
Acid
$1900/kg
Sea
Buckthorn
25% Flavones
$58/kg
Evodia 10%
Evodiamine
Acai 10%
Vitamin C
Gogi 40%
Polysaccharide
Spirulina
$70/kg
$28/kg
$19/kg
$10/kg
68
• Anti-inflammatory anti-oxidants are anti-aging
• Flavonoids, quinazolines, vitamin C, and xanthones found in
plants are anti-inflammatory
• Pomegranate, soy, coffeeberry, sea buckthorn, rooibos, evodia,
acai, gogi, mangosteen, and blue-green, red and brown algae all
contain large amounts of these anti-oxidants and antiinflammatory molecules
• These 12 natural plants have all been shown in clinical studies to
reduce the signs of aging of the skin when applied topically
69
Natural Anti-Aging Ingredients
70
JEANETTE JACKNIN M.D.
www.drjacknin.com
[email protected]
(480) 577-3785
Please feel free to contact me with any questions
about how your company can use these and other
new ingredients
71
References
1.
Carl R. Thornfeldt, MDFAAD, “Chronic inflammation is etiology of extrinsic
aging,” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 7(1), 78-82, March 2008
2.
De Nigris F et al. “Beneficial effects of pomegranate juice on oxidationsensitive genes and endothelial nitric oxide synthase activity at sites
of perturbed shear stress.” ProcNatl Acad Sci USA. 102, 13:4896-901,
2005, www.pnas.org
3.
Seeram NP et al. “ In vitro antiproliferative, apoptotoic and antioxidant activities
of punicalagin, ellagic acid, and a total pomegranate tannin extract are
enhanced in combination with other polyphenols as found in
pomegranate juice.” J Nutr Biochem. 16, 6:360-7, 2005.
www.elsevier.com/locate/nutbio
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References
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Mehta Re, Lansky EP. “Breast cancer chemopreventive properties of
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6.
Aslam, MN, Lansky EP, et al. “Pomegranate as a cosmeceutical source:
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Ethnopharmacol , 20,103(3): 311-318, 2006
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References
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future,” Dermatol Surg.31(7 Pt 2):873-80, Jul 2005
8.
Carl R Thornfeldt, M.D.FAAD, “Chronic inflammation is etiology of
extrinsic aging,” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 7(1), 78-82, March
2008
9. Leslie Baumann, M.D., “Botanical ingredients in cosmeceuticals.”
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References
11. Wendy Lewis, “Here’s what’s new in advanced skin care products,”
Cosmeceuticals Roundup. Sept. 2007. www.pspinteractive.com/issues/articles/2007-2009
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The Publishing House of Public Health, Beijing
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References
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study of the effects of sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) leaf extract
on cutaneous wound healing in albino rats,” Int J Low Extrem Wounds, 2005
Jun;4(2):88-92.
15. Karta Purkh Singh Khalsa, “Save your skin with sea buckthorn,” Better
Nutrition, May, 2007
16. Karta Purkh Singh Khalsa, “Save your skin with sea buckthorn,” Better
Nutrition, May, 2007
17. Carefair.com
76
References
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HPLC-UV and determination of the total antioxidant activity,”J Agric
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by rooibos (Aspalathus linearis) and Honeybush (Cyclopia intermedia),
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77
References
22. D.B. Yarosh et al, “Anti-inflammatory activity in skin by biomimetic of
Evodia rutaecarpa extract from traditional Chinese Medicine,” Japanese
Society for Investigative Dermatology.2005.12.009
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new class of COX-2 inhibitor, rutaecarpine from Evodia rutaecarpa,”
Inflamm Res 1999;48:621-5.
24. Matsuda H. et al, “Antinociceptive and anti-inflammatory activities of
limonin isolated from the fruits of Evodia rutaecarpa var. bodinieri.”
Planta Med 1998;64:339-42.
78
References
25. Pitman, Simon “Acai Berries Make Jump From Food to Skin Care”,
Cosmetics Design.com, Feb 5,2008.
26. Sandy, “Acai Berry Anti-Aging Supplement Voted #1 Superfood on
Oprah”, Skincareblog.net, July 2, 2008
27. Schauss AG et al. “Antioxidant capacity and other bioactivities of the
freeze-dried. Amazonian palm berry, Euterpe oleraceae mart. (acai).”
Journ Agric Food Chem, 2006 Nov 1;54(22):8604-10.
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Food Chem 2006 Nov 1;54(22):8598-603.
79
References
29. Zevola, Nicki, “Spotlight on Acai,” Futurederm.com, Feb 2008.
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