Hair extensions
Level 3
Adding hair by plaiting
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This method
demonstrates how
hair can be extended
by plaiting added hair
to the head in the
form of a scalp braid
It is very popular on
Afro type hair and is
very effective in
adding length, colour
and ornamentation
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Full head of braids
with added hair
Plaiting in hair
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Plaits can also be
loose and not fixed to
the head when
creating length in the
hair
Clip in extensions
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Adding instant length to the hair has never been more easy than by using hair clip in
extensions. Clip in hair extensions offer a temporary solution to adding hair length in
just a few minutes. Ideal for special occasions and when instant length is required.
When it goes wrong!
Example of poor placement of clip in or
glued in wefts
 Placement is crucial in giving a natural
look
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Glued in wefts
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Although these may look
easy and effective here,
they can be very
damaging to the hair and
scalp if applied
incorrectly.
Glue should not come in
contact with the scalp and
they should be removed
appropriately to ensure
no damage occurs, the
glue can also give a
reaction – skin test first
Bonded hair extensions
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Increasing length and
volume by adding pre
glued bonds to the hair
Individual bonds are
added to the hair using
keratin based adhesive.
This is heated and fixed
to individual strands of
hair throughout the head
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These are increasingly
popular with clients
Hair
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Varying types of hair can be purchased –
Human hair, synthetic hair and memory
hair, it comes pre bonded as well as loose
this can have a glue bonds added to it
Attachment
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Hair is sectioned carefully taking a small triangular section
A guard is placed at the scalp to protect the hair and head
Hair should be at least ½ a CM away from the scalp
A pre bonded section is placed under the
section to be added to
 Ensure this sits with the clients hair within
the cupped bond
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Method of attachment
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The hot gun is added to the bond
The bond will begin to melt
When this happens, close the gun onto the bond to close onto the
section, remove the gun from the bond
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Now quickly place the soft bond between the finger and thumb and
roll, try to taper the bottom and top of the glue to seal the ends
smooth
If the ends are not smooth roll the gun back over the glue to smooth
Placement – adding length
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Applying in rowsMost people will have 3 full rows in the nape area
and 1-3 rows above this. (See manufacturers
technical manual for different row patterns for
different textures and lengths of hair). The first row
will be 1”-2” above the bottom hair line. (If the hair is
really fine and 5” or longer we generally start closer
to 2” up). The second row will be 1” above the first
and the third row will be 1” above the second.
Always stay about 1” (1 ½” for fine hair) away from
the hair line all around the head. This will keep the
extensions from showing
Placement
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Medium length hair can be
easily lengthened with 5-7
bundles (25 pieces in each
bundle) of extensions.
The thickest hair will need
the most. It is very important
to balance the thickness of
the clients hair with the
thickness of the hair
extensions you put in. Put a
solid row of extensions,
every 1/4 inch where there is
a solid line. Where there is a
dotted line skip a 1/2space
between extensions.
Placement
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Back of the head
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It is not advisable to add a bond to every
section of hair, this will add increased
tension on the hair and could lead to hair
loss – Traction Alopecia
Short hair placement
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It can be very difficult to
lengthen hair any hair
shorter than 4 1/2" -5"
long.
If you must don’t go any
shorter than 3” and add
more extensions at the
top.
Short hair is the hardest
to lengthen. Any shorter
than 4 ½” – 5” is not
recommended.
Other attachment methods
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Metal clips are used in some hair extension systems to secure
sections of hair to the head – these can be heavy and are not
advised for a full head or on fine hair
Knotting
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Hair is knotted and intertwined with the existing hair – this is a
lengthy process and again not advised for the whole head, it is
heavier than bonds and can add tension to fine or weak hair
It is a good method for adding dreads or avant guard styles though
Incorrect application
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Damage from the Hair
Extension Application
Process
This is an example of
a poorly applied bond
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One of the most common causes of damage to a
client's hair is from improper application of hair
extensions. Usually it is from what I like to call
the "waterfall effect". This is when the extension
is applied to the clients hair too close to the
scalp and the extension is almost in a horizontal
position from the clients head. Extensions are
meant to be worn where the extension will flow
with the clients natural hair, not the other way
around. You can see in the first image how the
hair extension goes in a horizontal motion, and
then falls down creating the "waterfall effect".
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As the weft moves down the head as the hair grows you can see the
hair is not evenly placed
Hair at the root can matt and become damaged
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When the clients hair starts to grow out the section of the client's
hair that has the extension will start to get stressed. In the second
photo you will see how the client's hair in the top section of the
bonding is supporting all of the weight, even though in this photo the
hair is being held away from the client's head and in a downward
motion. If the hair were to lay completely flat, like they do during
normal wear, there would be even more stress caused to these hairs
in the top section of the bonding. Eventually these stressed hairs will
either break off or pull themselves from the client's scalp. Once the
top section of hairs in the bond pull out or break, the weight of the
extension is then placed on the only hair that is left supporting the
extension in the client's hair. Usually this is too much for these hairs
and they too either break or pull out from the client's scalp. This will
result in a bald spot or an area of short hair where the extension
broke the client's natural hair.
Alopecia
Removal
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A hair extension that is to going to be removed is
singled out from the rest of the client's hair and
hair extensions. A removal solution is applied to
the hair extension, which will dissolve the bond
and help the extension release from the client's
hair. Removal tongs are used to apply pressure
to the bonding points. This slight pressure will
loosen the bond and cause it to release from the
client's natural hair. The tongs are then used to
hold the client's natural hair in place. Then the
hair extensions is taken out by simply pulling the
hair in a downward motion.
Caring and advice for clients
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You should ensure which the hair is shampooed
and conditioned regularly. Keep in mind, the
human hair extensions cannot obtain the normal
scalp oils and as a result, they should be
conditioned completely. Nevertheless, you ought
to not apply the conditioner towards the root or
in the location from the attachment. Also,
following shampooing, it's essential to untangle
the hair having a comb relatively than rubbing
the hair with towel.
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One of many commonest errors is
maintaining the hair when sleeping. The
best thing to do is braid it or put it into a
pony tail; but you should ensure that the
hair is dried correctly first. Nevertheless, if
you're utilizing a hair dryer, you've to
ensure that you simply aren't applying
immediate heat towards the attachment as
this will loosen the bond.