SAVOR THIS October 2009 • Volume 1 • Issue 2 • A monthly publication of The American Institute of Wine & Food GAIL SIMMONS AIWF’s Newest Ambassador REMEMBERING JULIA CHILD Co-Founder AIWF AUTUMN IN NEW BRUNSWICK SAVOR THIS Is a publication in association with The American Institute of Wine & Food founded in 1891. Editors Beth Lane Amy J. Williams Art Direction & Design Iatesta Design Contributing Writers John Blanchette Frank Giaimo Beth Lane Amy Williams The AIWF National Board Lisa A. Lipton, National Chair – San Diego Mary J. Chamberlin, Vice Chair – Monterey Bay Andre R. Jaglom, Esq., Secretary – New York George Linn, Treasurer – NorCal Frank Giaimo, Chapter Council Chair – NorCal Gary Martin, Chapter Council Vice Chair – Dayton Scott J. Hunt, Chapter Council Representative – New York Carolyn J. Margolis Chapter Council Representative – National Capital D. E. FitzGerald Chapter Council Representative – Orange County M. Jean Schultz Chapter Council Representative – Santa Barbara Riva Eichner Kahn, Days of Taste® Chair – Baltimore GAIL SIMMONS WELCOME FOOD & WINE Special Projects The American Institute of Wine & Food would like to welcome you to our second issue of Savor This. This issue will feature one of our founding members: Julia Child, our newest Ambassador Gail Simmons, new gift ideas, member benefits and information about the 2010 National Leadership Conference in Napa, California. The AIWF National office is always looking for new and fun ideas to share with its members and welcomes suggestions and feedback. Please call or email the National Office. We look forward to hearing from you. Thank you, AIWF National CONTENTS 1 Gail Simmons - Our Newest Ambassador 2 Remembering our Founders - Julia Child 6 Julia’s Kitchen 7 Recipes from Julia Child Deborah McKeever, Membership Chair – Dallas/Ft. Worth Michael Green – New York Allen Susser – South Florida George Temel – South Florida THE AIWF National Office Amy J. Williams, Executive Director 11 Autumn in New Brunswick David A. Bernahl II Co-Founder Coastal Luxury Management 14 Harvest: Farm-to-Table Recap Robert Weakley Co-Founder Coastal Luxury Management 16 The History of Oktoberfest 18 Chapter Spotlight: Northern California 21 The AIWF Organization/Chapter Events 22 The AIWF Member Benefits 26364 Carmel Rancho Lane, Suite 201 Carmel, CA 93923 SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 The American Institute of Wine & Food is delighted to introduce Gail Simmons as one of our newest Ambassadors. Gail Simmons joined FOOD & WINE in 2004 and handles special projects for the magazine, acting as liaison between the marketing and editorial teams on magazine events and chef-related initiatives. During her tenure at the magazine, she has been responsible for the annual FOOD & WINE Classic. Beth Lane, Chapter & Member Administrator (831) 250-7739 (800) 274-2493 toll-free (831) 622-7783 fax [email protected] www.aiwf.org “I am thrilled to join AIWF and play a larger role in supporting its vision. Its core values are more relevant than ever as we all manage our busy daily lives: sharing knowledge, encouraging health, promoting leadership, and rallying community around and through a love of great food and drink. I especially look forward to participating in Days of Taste® and hope to assist in garnering much deserved national recognition for this outstanding initiative. The chance to impact the lives of young people and help them make better food choices, which affect not only their lives but the larger world is not only exciting but imperative.” www.aiwf.org Gail lends her strong culinary expertise as permanent judge on BRAVO’s Emmy Award– winning series Top Chef, now in its sixth successful season. The series is rated the #1 Food Show on cable television. In addition, she also makes frequent appearances on television and at www.aiwf.org events, and appeared as a speaker at this summer’s FOOD & WINE Classic in Aspen. Prior to joining FOOD & WINE, she was the special events manager for Chef Daniel Boulud’s restaurant empire. She began her career writing about food in Toronto, Canada and received her formal culinary training at what is now the Institute of Culinary Education in New York. Gail trained at both Le Cirque 2000 and Vong restaurants, and then worked for food critic Jeffrey Steingarten at Vogue. She has contributed to several cookbooks, including It Must’ve Been Something I Ate by Jeffrey Steingarten, Chef Daniel Boulud: Cooking in New York City and The New American Chef, by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page. Gail lives in NY City with her husband Jeremy. SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 1 REMEMBERING OUR FOUNDERS Our Beloved Julia Julia Child (August 15, 1912 – August 13, 2004) was an American chef, author and television personality. She introduced French cuisine and cooking techniques to the American mainstream through her many cookbooks and television programs, notably The French Chef which premiered in 1963. Her most well-known cookbook is Mastering the Art of French Cooking, published in 1961. Biography courtesy of Wikipedia.com. CHILDHOOD AND EDUCATION "I was 32 when I started cooking; up until then, I just ate." – Julia Child Dear Readers: The next several issues of Savor This will feature the three primary founders of The American Institute of Wine & Food, Julia Child, Robert Mondavi and Richard Graff. With its founding mission being to enhance the understanding, appreciation, and quality of wine and food. Julia Child revolutionized the culinary world with her lively personality and fine, but approachable cooking style. Through her cookbooks and television shows, she empowered Americans to cook by encouraging them to prepare and enjoy food in everything she did. Many of you had the fortunate opportunity to meet and get to know Julia, as she was a big part of The AIWF Organization for many years – she is truly missed. Amy Williams Executive Director, AIWF National 2 SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 Child was born Julia Carolyn McWilliams to John and Julia Carolyn ("Caro") McWilliams in Pasadena, California. The eldest of three children, she had a brother, John III, (1914–2002), and a sister Dorothy D. (1917–2006). Child was raised in a well-to-do family where she ate traditional New England food prepared by the family cook. She attended Westridge School, Polytechnic School from fourth grade to ninth grade and then The Branson School in Ross, California, which was at the time a boarding school. At 6’2” tall, Child played tennis, golf, and basketball as a child and continued to play sports while attending Smith College, where she graduated in 1934 with a Bachelor of Arts degree in English. Following her graduation from college, Child moved to New York City, where she worked as a copywriter for the advertising department of upscale homefurnishing firm W. & J. Sloane. Returning to California in 1937, she spent the next 4 years writing for local publications and working in advertising. WORLD WAR II After the bombing of Pearl Harbor, Child joined the Office of Strategic Services (OSS) after finding that she was too tall to enlist in the Women's Army Corps (WACs) or in the U.S. Navy. www.aiwf.org Beginning her OSS career at its headquarters in Washington, Child worked directly for the head of OSS, General William J. Donovan. Working as a research assistant in the Secret Intelligence division, she typed ten thousand names on white note cards used to keep track of officers. For a year she worked at the OSS Emergency Rescue Equipment Section (ERES) in Washington, D.C. as a file clerk and then as assistant to developers of a shark repellent needed to ensure that sharks would not explode ordnance targeting German U-boats. In 1944 she was posted to Kandy, Ceylon (now Sri Lanka), where her responsibilities included "registering, cataloguing and channeling a great volume of highly classified communications" for the OSS's clandestine stations in Asia. She was later posted to China, where she received the Emblem of Meritorious Civilian Service as head of the Registry of the OSS Secretariat. Following the war she married Paul Cushing Child on September 1, 1946 in Lumberville, Pennsylvania, and the couple moved to Washington, D.C. Paul Child, a New Jersey native who had lived in Paris as an artist and poet, was known for his sophisticated palate. He joined the United States Foreign Service and introduced his wife to fine cuisine. In 1948 they moved to Paris after the US State Department assigned Paul there as an exhibits officer with the United States Information Agency. The couple had no children. Simone Beck who, with her friend Louisette Bertholle, was writing a French cookbook for Americans. Beck proposed that Child work with them to make it appeal to Americans. In 1951 Child, Beck and Bertholle began to teach cooking to American women in Child's Paris kitchen, calling their informal school L'Ecole des Trois Gourmandes (The School of the Three Food Lovers). For the next decade, as the Childs moved around Europe and finally to Cambridge, Massachusetts, the three researched and repeatedly tested recipes. Child translated the French into English, making the recipes detailed, interesting, and practical. BOOKS AND TELEVISION The three would-be authors initially signed a contract with publisher Houghton Mifflin, which later rejected the manuscript for being too much like an encyclopedia. Finally, when it was first published in 1961 by Alfred A. Knopf, the 734page Mastering the Art of French Cooking was a best-seller and received critical acclaim that derived in part from the American interest in French culture in the early 1960s. Lauded for its helpful illustrations, precise attention to detail and for making fine cuisine accessible, the book is still in print and is considered a seminal culinary work. Following this success, Child wrote POST-WAR FRANCE Child repeatedly recalled her first meal in Rouen as a culinary revelation; once, she described the meal of oysters, sole meunière and fine wine to The New York Times as "an opening up of the soul and spirit for me." In Paris she attended the famous Le Cordon Bleu cooking school and later studied privately with Max Bugnard and other master chefs. She joined the women's cooking club Cercle des Gourmettes where she met www.aiwf.org Julia Child at home in front of the cameras. (Associated Press) SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 3 magazine articles and a regular column for The Boston Globe newspaper. A 1962 appearance on a book review show on the National Educational Television (NET) station of Boston, WGBH, led to the inception of her television cooking show after viewers enjoyed her demonstration of how to cook an omelette. The French Chef debuted February 11, 1963, on WGBH and was immediately successful. The show ran nationally for ten years and won Peabody and Emmy Awards, including the first Emmy award for an educational program. Though she was not the first television cook, Child was the most widely seen. She attracted the broadest audience with her cheery enthusiasm, distinctively charming warbly voice, and unpatronising and unaffected manner. Child & Company and Dinner at Julia's; at the same time she also produced what she considered her magnum opus, a book and instructional video series collectively entitled The Way To Cook, which was published in 1989. IN POPULAR CULTURE In 1972 The French Chef became the first television program to be captioned for the deaf, albeit in the preliminary technology of open captioning. Child's second book, The French Chef Cookbook, was a collection of the recipes she had demonstrated on the show. It was soon followed in 1971 by Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume Two, again in collaboration with Simone Beck, but not with Louisette Bertholle, with whom they had ended their partnership. Child's fourth book, From Julia Child's Kitchen, was illustrated with her husband's photographs and documented the color series of The French Chef, as well as providing an extensive library of kitchen notes compiled by Child during the course of the show. In 1981 she founded the educational American Institute of Wine & Food in Napa, California, with vintners Robert Mondavi and Richard Graff to "advance the understanding, appreciation and quality of wine and food," a pursuit she had already begun with her books and television appearances. In the 1970s and 1980s she was the star of numerous television programs, including Julia 4 SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 Child's last book was the autobiographical My Life in France, published posthumously in 2006 and written with her husband's great nephew, Alex Prud'homme. The book recounts Child's life with her husband, Paul Child, in post-World War II France. Julia Child at the Miami Book Fair International of 1989 She starred in four more series in the 1990s that featured guest chefs: Cooking with Master Chefs, In Julia's Kitchen with Master Chefs, Baking With Julia, and Julia Child & Jacques Pépin Cooking at Home. She collaborated with Jacques Pépin many times for television programs and cookbooks. All of Child's books during this time stemmed from the television series of the same names. Beginning with In Julia's Kitchen with Master Chefs, the Childs' home kitchen in Cambridge was fully transformed into a functional set, with TV-quality lighting, three cameras positioned to catch all angles in the room, a massive center island with a gas stovetop on one side and an electric stovetop on the other, but leaving the rest of the Childs' appliances alone, including "my wall oven with its squeaking door." This kitchen backdrop hosted nearly all of Child's 1990s television series. www.aiwf.org Child was a favorite of audiences from the moment of her television debut on public television in 1963, and she was a familiar part of American culture and the subject of numerous references. In 1966 she was featured on the cover of Time with the heading, "Our Lady of the Ladle." In a 1978 Saturday Night Live sketch, she was affectionately parodied by Dan Aykroyd continuing with a cooking show despite profuse bleeding from a cut to her thumb. It has been told that Julia loved this sketch so much that she would show it to friends at parties. Jean Stapleton portrayed her in a 1989 musical, Bon Appétit!, based on one of her televised cooking lessons. The title derived from her famous TV sign-off: "This is Julia Child. Bon appétit!". She was also the inspiration for the character "Julia Grownup" on the Children's Television Workshop program, The Electric Company (1971–1977), and was portrayed or parodied in many other television and radio programs and skits, including The Cosby Show (1984–1992) by character Heathcliff Huxtable (Bill Cosby) and Garrison Keillor's radio series A Prairie Home Companion by voice actor Tim Russell. Julia Child's TV show is briefly portrayed in the 1986 movie, The Money Pit starring Tom Hanks and Shelley Long; the 1985 Madonna film Desperately Seeking Susan and the 1991 comedy Don't Tell Mom The Babysitter's Dead. In 2009 Child was featured in the film Julie & Julia, with Meryl Streep portraying Child; see below for further details. www.aiwf.org RETIREMENT Her husband, Paul, who was ten years older, died in 1994 after living in a nursing home for five years following a series of strokes in 1989. In 2001 she moved to a retirement community in Santa Barbara, California, donating her house and office to Smith College. She donated her kitchen, which Julia & Paul Child in their kitchen her husband designed with high counters to accommodate her formidable height, and which served as the set for three of her television series, to the National Museum of American History, where it is now on display. Her iconic copper pots and pans were on display at Copia in Napa, California, until August 2009 when they were reunited with her kitchen at the Smithsonian in Washington, DC. She received the French Legion of Honor in 2000 and the U.S. Presidential Medal of Freedom in 2003. Child also received honorary doctorates from Harvard University, Johnson & Wales University in 1995, her alma mater Smith College, Brown University in 1999, and several other universities. On August 13, 2004, Child died of kidney failure at her assisted-living home in Montecito, two days shy of her 92nd birthday. SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 5 JULIA’S KITCHEN JULIA CHILD'S FAVORITE ROAST CHICKEN Wash the chicken rapidly inside and out with hot water and pat thoroughly dry. For easier carving, cut out and discard the wishbone. Pull the neck skin up over the breast and secure it to the back with a toothpick. Salt and pepper the cavity and spoon in the cooked vegetables, a handful of parsley stems and celery leaves and the lemon slices. Massage the chicken all over with 1 tablespoon of the butter then truss it. (Alternatively, tie the ends of the drumsticks together and tuck the wings under the body) Preheat oven to 425F. Choose a flameproof roasting pan that is 1 inch larger than the chicken. Salt the bird all over and set it breast up on a rack in the pan. Roast the chicken in the oven for about 1 1/2 hours, as follows: AT 15 MINUTES: Quickly brush the bird with the remaining 1/2 tablespoon of butter. Scatter the sliced vegetables Photo and facts from Smithsonian National Museum of American History. The kitchen measures 14 x 20. The blue and green color scheme was chosen by Paul Child in 1961. The AIWF had the wonderful opportunity to do something very special for the Institute and the American public when Julia Child donated her kitchen from her Cambridge home to the Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of American History, America’s leading museum complex with over 20 million visitors per year. Committed to preserving Julia’s legacy, The AIWF agreed to be a sponsor of this important exhibition and assisted with the move in 2002. The AIWF is delighted that this remarkable collection will become a vital part of the story of our history and culture. If you haven’t already, we hope you will take the time to go see this special piece of Americana on exhibit in the future. The exhibition features Julia Child’s actual kitchen including the cabinets, appliances, cookbooks, kitchen table, and hundreds of utensils and gadgets. The exhibition gives visitors a peek into the working kitchen of one of the world’s best6 SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 around the bird. Reduce oven temperature to 350F. known cooks, and explores how her influence as an author and host of several television series changed the way America cooks. A replica of the kitchen plays a starring role in the new movie “Julie & Julia” with Meryl Streep and Amy Adams. Thirty beautiful French copper pots and pans have been reunited with the kitchen and are now on view. The exhibition features: • a six-burner Garland commercial range, used by Julia Child from 1956 to 2001 AT 30 MINUTES: Baste the chicken with the pan drippings. Yield: 4 Servings AT 45 MINUTES: Brush the lemon juice over the chicken, Add 1/2 cup of water to the pan to prevent the vegetables Ingredients • 2 1/2 Tbsp unsalted butter from burning. AT 60 MINUTES: Baste with the pan drippings. Begin • 1/3 c each finely diced carrots, onion and celery testing chicken for doneness: the drumsticks should move • 1 tsp thyme, savory or mixed herbs or 2; fresh thyme sprigs fairly easily in their sockets and their flesh should feel • 4 lb fresh chicken testing every 7-8 minutes. • 1 salt & freshly ground pepper Spear the chicken through the shoulders and lift it up to drain; if the last of the juices run clear yellow, the chicken is • a blowtorch, a tool that Julia Child popularized for browning the top of crème brulee • 1 parsley stems &celery leaves • 6 1/8-inch thick lemon slices • Julia’s array of indispensable knives • 1/2 c each sliced onion & carrot • Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Julia Child’s groundbreaking cookbook published in 1961. • 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice somewhat soft. If not, continue roasting, basting and done. Set it on a carving board and discard string. Let rest for 15 minutes. Spoon all but 1 tablespoon of fat from the juices in pan. Also, we encourage you to visit the online exhibition the American History Museum has put together at www.americanhistory.si.edu/juliachild www.aiwf.org • 3/4 c chicken stock or broth Add the stock and boil rapidly until reduced and lightly syrupy. Strain the juices -- you will have just enough to Instructions bathe each serving with a fragrant spoonful. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a skillet. Add the diced carrots, onion and celery and cook over moderate heat until softened about 5 minutes. Stir in the herbs. Recipe courtesy Julia's Kitchen Wisdom: Essential www.aiwf.org Techniques and Recipes from a Lifetime of Cooking by Julia Child, Alfred A. Knopf, 2000 SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 7 JULIA CHILD'S FRENCH ONION SOUP JULIA CHILD'S POULET AU PORTO bring the water to boil in the with the butter, lemon, and salt. Toss in the mushrooms, cover, and boil slowly for 8 minutes. Pour out the cooking liquid and reserve. Chicken is just one of the possible take-offs using it. It's hoity-toity in appearance and tastes great. This is certainly one of the all-time favorites. The canned and packaged onion soups I've tried have been very good, • 1 c whipping cream and the only way to better them is for you to have your own • 1/2 Tbsp cornstarch blended with 1 Tbsp of the cream beautiful beef stock. However, bought onion soup will • Salt and pepper benefit from the flavor additions suggested here. TIMING: Pour the cream and the cornstarch mixture into the mushrooms. Simmer for 2 minutes. Correct seasoning, and set aside. When the chicken is done, remove it to a carving board and let it rest at room temperature while completing the sauce. For most delicious results, you want a slow simmer for 2 3/4 to 3 hours. Special equipment suggested A food processor with slicing blade or a hand slicer is useful • 1/2 Tbsp minced shallots or green onions for the onions; a heavy-bottomed 3-quart saucepan with • 1/3 c medium-dry port cover for onion cooking and simmering. • The mushroom cooking liquid Browning the onions • The mushrooms in cream 40 minutes. Set the saucepan over moderate heat with the • Salt and pepper butter and oil; when the butter has melted, stir in the • Drops of lemon juice onions, cover the pan, and cook slowly until tender and translucent, about 10 minutes. Blend in the salt and sugar, raise heat to moderately high, and let the onions brown, stirring frequently until they are dark walnut color, 25 to 30 minutes. Simmering the soup Julia Child 1970. Photo by Fairchild Archives. Sprinkle in the flour and cook slowly, stirring, for another 3 Ingredients • 3 Tbsp butter • 1 Tbsp light olive oil or fresh peanut oil to 4 minutes. Remove from heat, let cool a moment, then whisk in 2 cups of hot stock. When well blended, bring to the simmer, adding the rest of the stock, the Cognac or brandy, and the vermouth. Cover loosely, and simmer very • 8 c thinly sliced onions (2 ½ pounds) slowly 1 1/2 hours, adding a little water if the liquid reduces • 1/2 tsp each salt and sugar (sugar helps the onions to brown 2 Tbsp flour too much. Correct seasoning. • 2 1/2 qts homemade beef stock, at least 2 cups of which should be hot • 4 to 5 Tbsp cognac, Armagnac, or other good brandy • 1 c dry white French vermouth Ahead-of-time note Chicken, cream, and mushrooms occur again and again, as it is one of the great combinations. This perfectly delicious recipe is not difficult, but it cannot be prepared ahead of time or the chicken will lose its fresh and juicy quality. The chicken is roasted, then carved, flamed in cognac, and allowed to steep for several minutes with cream, mushrooms, and port wine. It is the kind of dish to do when you are entertaining a few good, food-loving friends whom you can receive in your kitchen. For 4 people. Ingredients May be prepared in advance; chill uncovered, then cover and refrigerate or freeze. • 3-lb chicken, roasted • 1 lb fresh mushrooms, cleaned and stemmed, quartered if large Serving Serve the soup as it is, accompanying it with French bread • 1/4 cup water Instructions and a bowl of grated Swiss or Parmesan cheese, or gratin • 1/2 Tbsp butter The following three recipes are from the book by Julia Child. They actually produce two dishes; the basic butterflied chicken recipe can stand alone or be used as the starting point for all sorts of variations. The Mustard Coated it as follows. • 1/2 tsp lemon juice 8 SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 • 1/4 tsp salt Makes about 2 1/2 quarts, serving 6. From The Way to Cook, Julia Child, Alfred Knopf, 1989 www.aiwf.org Using a 2 1/2-quart enameled or stainless steel saucepan, www.aiwf.org Remove all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the roasting pan. Stir in the shallots or onions and cook slowly for 1 minute. Add the port and the mushroom juice, and boil down rapidly, scraping up coagulated roasting juices, until liquid has reduced to about 1/4 cup. Add the mushrooms and cream and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, allowing the liquid to thicken slightly. Correct seasoning and add lemon juice to taste. • 1 Tbsp butter • 1/8 tsp salt Smear the inside of a fireproof casserole or chafing dish with butter. Rapidly carve the chicken into serving pieces. Sprinkle lightly with salt, and arrange in the casserole or chafing dish. • 1/4 c cognac Set over moderate heat or an alcohol flame until you hear the chicken begin to sizzle. Then pour the cognac over it. Avert your face, and ignite the cognac with a lighted match. Shake the casserole slowly until the flames have subsided. Then pour in the mushroom mixture, tilting the casserole and basting the chicken. Cover and steep for 5 minutes without allowing the sauce to boil. Serve. NOTE: Chicken may remain in its casserole over barely simmering water or in the turned-off hot oven with its door ajar, for 10 to 15 minutes, but the sooner served, the better. SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 9 AUTUMN IN NEW BRUNSWICK JULIA CHILD'S BEEF BOURGUIGNON 2 In a large frying pan, sauté the blanched bacon to brown slightly in a little oil; set them aside and add later to simmer with the beef, using the rendered fat in browning. Brown the chunks of beef on all sides in the bacon fat and olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and put them into a heavybottomed Dutch oven or covered casserole pan. Cut the bacon into 1-inch pieces and add to the pan. Julia Child was known as much for her TV show as for her cookbooks, such as "Mastering the Art of French Cooking." Photo: Paul Child Beef Bourguignon is a classic French stew of cubed beef, slow cooked in red wine and broth, and served with sautéed mushrooms and pearl onions. Ingredients • 6 oz bacon • 2 to 3 Tbsp olive oil • 4 lbs trimmed beef chuck, cut into 2-inch cubes, patted dry with paper towels • Salt and freshly ground pepper • 2 c sliced onions • 1 c sliced carrots • 1 bottle of red wine (such as a Zinfandel or Chianti) • 2 c beef stock or canned beef broth • 1 c chopped tomatoes, fresh or canned • 1 medium herb bouquet (tie 8 parsley sprigs, 1 large bay leaf, 1 tsp dried thyme, 2 whole cloves or allspice berries, and 3 large cloves of smashed garlic together wrapped and tied in cheesecloth) • Beurre manié: 3 Tbsp flour blended to a paste with 2 Tbsp butter • 24 pearl onions • Chicken stock • Butter • 1 1/2 lbs of button or cremini mushrooms, quartered Instructions 1 Blanch bacon to remove its smoky taste. Drop slices into 2 quarts of cold water, bring to a boil, and simmer 6 to 8 minutes. Drain, rinse in cold water, and dry on paper towels. 10 SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 Story and photos by John Blanchette celebrating its 225th birthday this year, the oldest incorporated city in Canada. In 1783 the area was colonized by Loyalists from the American Revolution who had fought with the Red Coats and/or supported British rule. After the war, 7,000 were forced out or left voluntarily and resettled on land separated from Nova Scotia. It was renamed for the German Duchy of Brunswick, then under control of England’s George III. 3 Remove all but a little fat from the frying pan, add the sliced vegetables and brown them, and add to the meat. Deglaze the pan with wine, pouring it into the casserole along with enough stock to almost cover the meat. Stir in the tomatoes and add the herb bouquet. Bring to a simmer, cover, and simmer slowly on the lowest heat possible, either on the stove or in a preheated 325°F oven, until the meat is tender, about 1 to 2 hours. 4 While the stew is cooking, prepare the onions. Blanch the onions in boiling water for 1 minute. Drain and rinse in cold water to stop the cooking. Slice the end tips off of the onions, peel the onions and score the root end with 1/4 inch cuts. Sauté onions in a single layer in a tablespoon or two of butter until lightly browned. Add chicken stock or water half way up the sides of the onions. Add a teaspoon of sugar, and season with salt and pepper. Cover and simmer slowly for 25 minutes or until tender. The onions should absorb most of the water. If there is water remaining after cooking, drain the excess. Set aside. 5 Prepare the mushrooms a few minutes before serving the stew. Sauté quartered mushrooms in a few tablespoons of butter and olive oil until browned and cooked through. 6 When the stew meat has cooked sufficiently, remove all solids from the sauce (except the beef) by draining through a colander set over a saucepan. Return the beef to the casserole. Press juices out of the residue into the cooking liquid, then remove any visible fat and boil down the liquid to 3 cups. Off heat, whisk in the beurre manié, then simmer for 2 minutes as the sauce thickens lightly. Correct seasoning and pour over the meat, folding in the onions and mushrooms. To serve, bring to a simmer, basting meat and vegetables with the sauce for several minutes until hot. Serve with rice, bread, or potatoes (unless you are doing the low-carb version!). Serves 6 to 8. Recipe adapted from Julia's Kitchen Wisdom: Essential Techniques and Recipes from a Lifetime of Cooking www.aiwf.org An early frost brings out color in the Maple boughs. My seatmate on the plane from Los Angeles to Toronto was Pamela Anderson. She's Canadian and was presenting at the annual Toronto Film Festival. I was continuing on to New Brunswick, an hour and a half farther east. Some flights are longer than others. It was mid September when I arrived and a chill was already in the air. The wind was up and summer was wary. The maple trees had recognized the crisp autumn days as well, and hues of orange and red were threading their boughs. New Brunswick is bordered by the Bay of Fundy on the south. The waters are cold year round, ranging between 38 and 44 degrees and it produces the highest tide in the world. Every six hours 100 billion tons of seawater swirl into the narrowing bay, raising it 40 to 52 feet. At Reversing Falls the phenomenon creates rapids as the tide rushes upstream. The best place to view the world’s highest tide surge is from the cliffs above Hopewell Rocks, east of Saint John. Over the years the tides have carved monoliths out of the sandstone, and left shrinking sentinels guarding the coast. Herring are plentiful in these waters, supplying the canneries. They also support New Brunswick is one of the three Maritime Provinces of Canada that spin off the nose of Maine like a propeller. It is the closest, abutting the border and about the same size, with a population of 750,000. It also possesses many of the same qualities; rolling farmlands, stately homes, covered bridges (64), a rugged coastline and abundant sea life. But It is the only province that recognizes two official languages, French and English. The plane landed in Saint John, which is www.aiwf.org Withering sentinels guard the coast along the Bay of Fundy. SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 11 salmon, porpoises, whales, and a myriad of diving sea birds, from eagles to gulls. Crustaceans love these frigid waters as well, which produce some of the best lobsters, oysters, clams and mussels in the world. I enjoyed seafood every day and especially relished the fried clams. Salmon and sturgeon farming has also increased recently, developing a booming caviar industry that can bring up to $80 an ounce for the osetra variety. Lobster boats wait for the tide to rise on the Bay of Fundy. Lying next to Hopewell Rocks, Fundy National Park offers scenic hikes on paths which edge along the bay for 120 kilometers through the Acadian Forest, past waterfalls and crystal clear streams. It was created in 1948, and features a beautiful golf course and a heated saltwater pool, unusual offerings for a national park. The Fundy Trail Parkway is one of the last remaining coastal wilderness areas in North America. Breathtaking views and a variety of flora and fauna present themselves. This is Christmas tree country and spruce and balsam firs scent the woods. Deer and moose are abundant and were spotted on a number of occasions. Hunting season hadn’t opened yet and they knew it. Look for the "Interpretive Centre" in the parks, where you can receive printed information on trails, plants and wildlife, speak with knowledgeable staff and find refreshments. 12 SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 Back in Saint John, I visited the City Market, the oldest covered market in Canada. It was here that I discovered the worst gastronomic experience of my trip, dulse. It’s salty dried seaweed with a rank odor and vile flavor that is definitely an acquired taste. Locals eat it like potato chips and swear by its healing and aphrodisiacal properties. I say it’s better uses are for plant fertilizer, insulation and fuel. Saint John has also given the world a number of film icons including studio mogul Louis B. Mayer and actors Walter Pidgeon and Donald Sutherland, who are commemorated in the city on a wall mural. The town of St. Andrews is one of the most beautifully preserved seaside resorts. It lies across from Maine and is where many Loyalists originally settled. On nearby Ministers Island, visitable only when the tide is out, you cross the stony seabed to the restored mansion of Sir William Cornelius Van Horne, builder of the Canadian Pacific Railroad. Don’t dally, you have six hours before the tide returns and you are stranded. From the docks at St. Andrews I took the Fundy Tide Runners 25-foot Zodiac boat into the bay for whale watching. It flies off the water when you approach 50 miles an hour and you do get soaked. But it’s a blast and we saw over 20 whales One of 64 covered bridges that keep snow off the roads in winter. www.aiwf.org and porpoises, dolphins, seals, bald eagles and other water birds and no one was lost at sea. Fredericton, in the lower left center of the Province on the St. John River, is the Capital. I was there for the 18th Annual Harvest Jazz and Blues Festival, which drew 80,000 into the city over the five days and 350 musicians. The music is performed at small and large venues throughout town and carries on late into the night. Attendees bring their instruments and there are impromptu jam sessions in every corner, bar and restaurant. Are ewe lookin' at me… are ewe lookin' at me? IF YOU GO: In the shadow of the Fairmont Algonquin Resort, the Province’s most elegant hotel/spa, the Kingsbrae Garden offers a 27-acre horticultural display of 55,000 plants. The grounds are spectacular; featuring local flowers and fruit trees, and you can feed the furry Alpacas. In the Maine border town of St. Stephen, chocoholics can satisfy their habit and tour the legendary Ganong Chocolate Museum. Est. in 1873, they were the inventors of the lollipop, candy bar, heart-shaped Valentine candy box, chocolate filled cinnamon hard candies called chicken bones, and cellophane packaging. Just outside of Fredericton is the Kings Landing Historical Settlement. This is a reenactment of www.aiwf.org pioneer life much like Plymouth Plantation, with a blacksmith shop, print shop, sawmill and farm animals of all sorts. Villagers wear period costumes and the Kings Head restaurant serves traditional meals. The best lobster stew I tasted was at Elaine’s Chowder House in St. Andrews, the most creative lobster dish was served at Rossmount Inn by Swiss chef Chris Aerni. His world-class cuisine was the finest I had on my trip, the service was knowledgeable and the Inn is a beautifully furnished and restored turn of the century structure. The best steamed lobsters were served by Ross Mavis at his Inn on the Cove in Saint John, which overlooks the bay. He is a cookbook author, columnist, lively raconteur and a former TV cooking show host. The best mussels were served at Brewbakers in Fredericton, the best iced tea at Opera Bistro in Saint John, a fresh ginger and lemon beverage, best blueberries at McKay’s roadside stand in Pennfield, best beer is Simon Jones Amber Ale, best fried clams at Parkland Village Inn, best ice cream at Europa Inn in St. Andrews and Opera Bistro makes its own gelato, best cinnamon bun at Kelly’s bakery in Alma, and best public golf course lies next to the Fairway Manor House in St. Andrews, a country inn formerly owned by the Hiram Walker family of Canadian Club fame. Just walk out the side door and on to the fourth tee. While in Saint John, take time to explore the architecture in the old city and take a tour of Trinity Church, the historic County Courthouse, the restored Imperial Theatre and the whalebones exhibit at the New Brunswick Museum. The New Brunswick Tourist Office, www.tourismnewbrunswick.ca has information on hotels, country inns, spas, hostels and bed and breakfasts. There are brochures on guided and self-guided tours, lists of restaurants, festivals, and attractions, 800-561-0123. SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 13 AIWF BENEFITS FROM HARVEST: FARM-TO-TABLE EVENT IN CARMEL, CA promote their restaurant CPR program. The Red Cross has partnered with AIWF Monterey Bay to offer complimentary classes to employees of AIWF Business and Chapter members and supplement the cost as a community service for non-member restaurant professionals. The intent of having this partnership is to roll the program out across the country where we have chapters. The event was a huge success for all who participated, as well as The AIWF. We want to thank everyone who was involved, we couldn’t have done it without you!!! Tyler Florence signing books in The AIWF tent at Harvest: Farm-to-Table. Carmel, CA – Sept 2009 - Harvest: Farm-to-Table was a two day event that celebrated agriculture, viticulture and cheese. This event highlighted the wonderful bounty of California’s Central Coast and beyond. The event had many activities such as cooking demos, BBQ seminars, gardening seminars, wine seminars and more. The American Institute of Wine & Food was one of the benefiting charities of the event. During the event The AIWF National & The AIWF Monterey Bay Chapter worked together to put on an auction, Riedel Stemware Seminars - presented by Riedel Glassware, Book Sales and Book Signings with AIWF’s newest Ambassador Tyler Florence and Craig Von Foerster. Additionally, the Monterey Bay Chapter invited the American Red Cross to 14 SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 AIWF Riedel Stemware Seminar www.aiwf.org www.aiwf.org SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 15 the oldest - and at one time - the most popular event of the festival are no longer held today. But the Agricultural Show is still held every three years during the Oktoberfest on the southern part of the festival grounds. THE HISTORY OF OKTOBERFEST Costume and Riflemen's Procession, and a concert involving all the brass bands represented at the "Wies’n". The Oktoberfest celebrated its 197th Anniversary in 2007, only Wars and cholera epidemics have briefly interrupted the yearly beer celebration. Oktoberfakts • In 1997, Oktoberfesters consumed more than 5 ½ million liters of beer, about 45,000 liters of wine, and almost 165,000 liters of nonalcoholic beer. • The local name for Oktoberfest, "Wies'n," is derived from Theresienwiese, the name of the field on which the festival is held. • The festival halls in Munich can seat 94,000 people. Oktoberfest - In September? Oktoberfest traditionally starts in the third weekend in September and ends the first Sunday of October. WHAT IS OKTOBERFEST? Bavaria. The decision to repeat the horse races in subsequest years gave rise to the tradition of Oktoberfest. In 1811, an added feature to the horse races was the first Agricultural Show, designed to boost Bavarian agriculture. The horse races, which were It began with the Royal Wedding on 12 October 1810. Crown Prince Ludwig, later to become King Ludwig I, was married to Princess Therese of Saxony-Hildburghausen on 12 October 1810. The citizens of Munich were invited to attend the festivities held on the fields in front of the city gates to celebrate the happy royal event. The fields were renamed Theresienwiese ("Theres'a Fields") to honor the Crown Princess, although the locals have since abbreviated the name simply to "Wiesn". Horse races in the presence of the royal family marked the close of the event that was celebrated as a festival for the whole of 16 SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 In the first few decades, the choices of amusements were sparse. In 1818, the first carousel and two swings were set up. Visitors were able to quench their thirst at small beer stands, which grew rapidly in number. In 1896 the beer stands were replaced by the first beer tents and halls set up by the enterprising landlords with the backing of the breweries. The remainder of the festival site was taken up by a fun-fair. The range of carousels offered was already increasing rapidly in the 1870's as the fairground trade continued to grow and develop in Germany. • The beers that the Munich breweries produce specially for Oktoberfest contain 4.5% alcohol. • Cincinnati, Ohio, which claims to hold the "largest authentic Oktoberfest" in the U.S., draws about 500,000 people to its celebration. Article courtesy www.ofest.com/history.html Today, the Oktoberfest in Munich is the largest festival in the world, celebrating the 176th Oktoberfest in 2009, with an international flavor characteristic of the 20th century. At the foot of the Bavaria Statue, adjacent to the Huge Oktoberfest grounds there are also carousels, roller coasters and all the spectacular fun for the enjoyment and excitement of visitors of all ages. The festivities are accompanied by a program of events, including the Grand Entry of the Oktoberfest Landlords and Breweries, the www.aiwf.org www.aiwf.org SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 17 CHAPTER SPOTLIGHT Northern California Anthony Bourdain- NorCal Scholarship Benefit Dinner challenge the status quo…oh, and wear multiple hats! Not all of these ideas work(!) but enough do so they know they are on the right track and keep trying. Frank & Elissa Giaimo are Chair and Vice Chair, Joyce Kucharvy is Treasurer, George Linn is Secretary, Committee Chairs are: Carla Schmidt is both Nominating and Membership, Myrna Caratti is Scholarship and Tom Kucharvy is Days of Taste. Frank is also Chapter Council Chair. Over this past year NorCal has focused on its philanthropic mission embodied in its Scholarship and Days of Taste programs. NorCal awarded a total of seven scholarships to 3 schools totaling $6,000. A successful approach was to add a requirement that the school must match the award, in effect doubling the amount awarded to each student. So that $6,000 turned into $12,000! This year NorCal plans to integrate their revitalized Days of Taste program with their scholarship recipient schools to provide chef and culinary student volunteers to help deliver an expanded Days of Taste program. Stay tuned for the results… The Northern California Chapter (NorCal) covers largest the San Francisco Bay Area including Napa, memberships and 250 members. NorCal’s Sonoma and Anderson Valleys to the North and success can be attributed to a small but effective San Jose to the South. Currently one of the Board of 10 willing to try new things and 18 SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 chapters, NorCal has about 200 www.aiwf.org Recognizing that events cannot be the sole method of fundraising, NorCal has embarked on two pilot programs. One is designing and www.aiwf.org Kingdom of Navarra Wine Dinner SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 19 producing unique and whimsical branded merchandise (shirts & caps) with healthy profit margins. In pilot now, NorCal is exploring ways to make this program available to the rest of the Chapters and should be ready to roll it out before the holidays. The second fundraising program is selling private label wines, in which the proceeds benefit the scholarship programs of The AIWF. We all enjoyed a tasting during our Miami National meeting, and as soon as legal hurdles are cleared, this program will be rolled out quickly to the Chapters. NorCal continues to innovate offering a full slate of events throughout the year and has effectively leveraged other organization’s food and wine events. By affiliating with these other groups they have produced a win-win: NorCal members enjoy either member discounts or exclusive access; the NorCal Chapter supplements its events calendar, and in some cases, receives a portion of the proceeds from the organizer as a donation to its scholarship and Days of Taste® fund; and the organizer benefits by NorCal marketing the event to its members, thereby increasing attendance. NorCal has also been fortunate to host some celebrity events, including visits by Anthony Bourdain, noted Chef and TV personality and Frank Bruni, most recent food critic for the New York Times. Every event that NorCal has produced in the last 3 years has made money and two signature fundraising events take full advantage of the area’s seafood bounty: Slurp n’ Burp recently celebrated it’s 8th year as a tribute to oysters - on an unusually rainy, windy day, where 45 hearty members had a blast right till the end - and it’s Roasted Crab Feed held at the start of Dungeness Crab season is about to celebrate its 4th year in December. Frank tells us that they continue to ‘cook up’ other ideas and looks forward to sharing those with all of you. To learn more about our NorCal Chapter, visit www.aiwf.org/norcal. THE AIWF ORGANIZATION/CHAPTER EVENTS Founding Members Richard H. Graff 6 Northern California – Rioja Wine Trade Tasting (Members Only) Robert Mondavi 7 Atlanta – Wonderful Wednesday at RiRa Julia Child 10-11 Milwaukee – Wine & Dine Wisconsin Chapters Atlanta, GA Baltimore, MD Boston, MA Chicago, IL 18 Monterey Bay – Octoberfest, A Grillfest in The Park Dayton, OH Denver, CO Hilton Head, SC Kansas City, KS Louisville, KY National Capital Area New Orleans, LA New York Northern California Orange County, CA Freeman Winery is proud to support e American Institute of Wine & Food by donating $100 for each case or $50 for each sixpack of wine ordered from the winery. Donations will directly benefit AIWF’s scholarship and Days of Taste® activities, which bring chefs and farmers into fourth and fifth grade classrooms to teach students about the importance and enjoyment of fresh food. Rhode Island Ordering: Place your wine order by e-mailing Akiko Freeman at [email protected] with your order, and reference AIWF. You will be contacted later for billing and shipping information. ank you for your support of Freeman Winery and e American Institute of Wine & Food. For more offer details and pricing, click HERE. Santa Barbara, CA San Diego, CA San Luis Obispo, CA Sonoran Desert, AZ South Florida, FL 20 SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 www.aiwf.org 14 Northern California – Wine & Spirits Magazine Top 100 Tasting Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX Pacific Northwest, WA Freeman Winery is a Business Member of the NorCal Chapter. To become a member of AIWF and have your business highlighted in an issue of Savor This, contact The AIWF National Office at (800) 274-2794 or email: [email protected] to learn more about the benefits of membership. 13 Dallas/Ft. Worth – Park Restaurant & Bar 17 Wichita – Midwest Beer Fest Monterey Bay, CA P.O. Box 1556, Sebastopol, CA 95472 • Tel/Fax 415·831·4756 • [email protected] • www.freemanwinery.com 11 Northern California – Treasure Island WineFest Connecticut Milwaukee, WI Proud to support e American Institute of Wine & Food OCTOBER Vermont Wichita, KS www.aiwf.org South Florida – Fleming’s Night of Discovery Tasting 21 South Florida – Kick-off for Days of Taste Boston – Tremont 647 26 Northern California – Spanish Wine, Spanish Food – San Francisco San Diego – Dinner at Alchemy South Park National Capital Area – All Hail British Ale NOVEMBER 2 Rhode Island – 4th Annual Rhode Island Chef SmackDown Kansas City – Jasper’s Kitchen Cookbook Demo/Tasting 2-5 Dallas/Ft. Worth – Fall Days of Taste 7 South Florida – Flamingo Family Food Festival 9-12 Dallas/Ft. Worth – Days of Taste Fall 2009 14 Chicago – Tour of Mitsuwa Market 18-22 San Diego – San Diego Bay Wine & Food Festival For more information on chapter events, please click “Local Chapters” at www.aiwf.org. SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 21 THE AIWF MEMBER BENEFITS Here you will find information on special benefits you receive for being a member of AIWF. An overview listing of all our benefits with links to description pages can be found on The AIWF Member Home page by logging in at www.aiwf.org. For assistance with member login, please contact AIWF National at (800) 274-2493 or email: [email protected]. The following are structured for The AIWF Member, and can only be obtained by a person with a current membership. Some of the philanthropic benefits: • Days of Taste® – The benefit of being part of a national organization whose mission is to reach out to thousands of children each year. Our focus and main objectives are to build a food and nutrition vocabulary, understand that locally grown ingredients are the freshest, and gain the experience to contrast flavors and develop taste memories. • Scholarships – AIWF awarded more than $110,000 in culinary and enology scholarships in 2008 to students in full-time or continuing education accredited programs. Additionally, AIWF members receive discounts on the following products and services: • Magazine Subscriptions: Save up to 50% on subscriptions to the following publications by using the subscription order form: Appellation, Architectural Digest, Bon Appétit, Condé Nast Traveler, Cook's Illustrated, Draft Magazine, Home, Petit Propos Culinaires, Restaurant Wine, Santé, Saveur, Shields Hood's Wine Notes, Travel & Leisure, Guide to Cooking Schools, The Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator, Gastronomica and Santé, The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals. • Avis Rental Car Discount • Open or renew an AIWF MasterCard account and MBNA will make a donation The AIWF! • Event discounts on San Diego Bay Wine & Food Festival • KitchenAid’s VIP Program for AIWF Members – The program offers special pricing on an unprecedented selection of KitchenAid products. You may choose from a variety of KitchenAid countertop appliances, cookware, bakeware, culinary tools and gadgets at a significant savings year round. Shopping is easy through our on-line password protected AIWF VIP on-line store. Watch for announcements of NEW Member Benefits in AIWF’s Monthly Member eNewsletter. Need Holiday Gift Ideas? Give an AIWF membership to a friend or family member. SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 to current AIWF members starting next month. Don’t miss out on next month’s issue and other AIWF member benefits. Click HERE to join! For more information please click the link www.aiwf.org/index.php?request=join 22 Become a Member of The American Institute of Wine & Food. Savor This will only go www.aiwf.org www.aiwf.org SAVOR THIS • OCTOBER 2009 SAVE THE DATE The 2010 AIWF National Conference in Napa, California All AIWF Members Welcome!!!! Thursday, July 29 – Sunday, August 1 Please look for conference information and registration in future issues of Savor This. To join The AIWF please click HERE. To learn more about The American Institute of Wine & Food or to join our Organization, please visit www.aiwf.org (831) 250-7739 • (800) 274-2493 toll-free • [email protected] 26364 Carmel Rancho Lane, Suite 201, Carmel, CA 93923
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