Rivière-du-Loup Dog Mountain Green Mountains Old Orchard Beach Lowell ...with children The Journey Lowell to Old Orchard Beach Old Orchard Beach to Rivieredu-Loup Old Orchard Beach hen I read Jack Kerouac’s On The Road as an impressionable undergrad at the University of Calgary, I fell under the spell of his hipster-hobo-shaman-searchers, all “mad to live, mad to talk, mad to be saved, desirous of everything at the same time.” I read it again 20 years later, this time as a father. Kerouac’s bebop-influenced, breakneck prose still excited me, but I didn’t see road trips in the same way. Extended periods in the car were now temple-throbbing negotiations with small companions who were the other kind of “mad”: mad to be bored, mad to be tired, mad to pee, mad that her brother ate the last goldfish cracker, mad that his sister is looking at him, mad to be strapped into a CSA-approved car seat against her will. (“Desirous of everything at the same time,” however, may be common ground for Kerouac’s hepcats and cranky toddlers.) Life is no longer a come-what-may journey. Life is a series of manoeuvres executed with a precision that makes Navy SEALs look like malarial surf bums. If asked to sketch a Venn diagram of where “daddy-o” intersects with “dad,” I would draw one small, cool circle on the left side of the page, and a second circle on Mars. This second circle would have trouble speaking in complete sentences, is always 20 minutes late and has what it hopes is chocolate smeared on the shirt it just finished ironing for work. Fatherhood and crazy kicks on the open road: mutually exclusive terms. Or are they? Rivieredu-Loup to Green Mountains Green Mountains to Dog Mountain Back to Lowell Maybe it was the news that On The Road had been adapted for the silver screen. (The film played Cannes this past May, and will likely hit Canada in December; see sidebar, page 23.) Maybe it was sleep-deprived insanity. Whatever the reason, last summer my wife, Tine, and I packed our 2004 Toyota Echo and set out to follow in the tire tracks of Kerouac’s Beat Generation. Into the trunk (barely): tent, sleeping bags, foam pads, clothes, coolers, folding chairs, strollers, toys, blankets. Into the backseat (not that we didn’t weigh options): our two children. We call our talkative four-year-old “Fuzzy,” a nickname that’s stuck since she was in utero. We call our silent two-year-old “Little Man.” Everything suffers with the second child, even nicknames. Kerouac’s 20-odd novels are basically memoirs with names changed to protect the hep; On The Road was based on four coast-to-coast trips that he took with his hard-living friend Neal Cassady (a.k.a. Dean Moriarty) from 1947 to 1950. Attempting to recreate even a fraction of that treadmelting mileage was out of the question. We needed something more manageable. I got wind of the very last road trip that Kerouac ever took: Lowell, Mass. to Rivière-du-Loup, Que., and back again, a paltry 1,600 kilometres. Perfect. By the way, in order to streamline this narrative, sustained periods (five minutes or longer) of whining/squabbling/crying will be indicated with an asterisk (*). nineteen ack Kerouac never wrote about that last road trip, taken in the summer of 1967. It doesn’t even rate a footnote in most biographies. The most definitive account is in Gerald Nicosia’s 700-plus-page Memory Babe, and even that’s just three short paragraphs. (I’d only learned of this obscure journey through the Ontario novelist Ray Robertson’s speculative What Happened Later .) By ’67, Kerouac wasn’t doing so hot. Years of alcoholism had worn out his body, a decay that parallelled that of his career. Sure, he still sold books—enough to get a new one published every year, at least, and these new “hippy” kids were starting to dig into his back catalogue—but the late ’50s bloom of his On The Road mainstream fame had long faded. Even worse: Critics still weren’t treating his work as capital-L literature. (It wasn’t until the ’80s that Kerouac became academically acceptable. Almost as many Kerouac articles have been published in the past two years as during the entire 1970s.) With his present so crummy, Kerouac retreated into his past. In ’67 he moved back in with his beloved maman in the Massachusetts textiles town where she’d raised him in a French-speaking home. (She called him Ti-Jean, basically Li’l John, and he didn’t learn English until he was six.) There, he resumed work on a novel he’d abandoned 10 years earlier, this one about the generation of impoverished Quebecois potato farmers, his forebears included, who relocated to New England in the late 19th century. Problem: He needed to do some research at the family parish in Quebec. Problem: The King of the Road, by most accounts, had never gotten a driver’s licence. Solution: Kerouac tapped the goodwill of Joe Chaput, car owner and upstanding member of Lowell’s French-Canadian diaspora. Details of the ’67 trip are scant, but at least Tine and I know where to start. Today, the entire town of Lowell is deemed a national park because of its place in the history of American industrialization. In fact, Lowell was the birthplace of numerous manufacturing innovations, and a very nice park ranger is boring me all about them when I have no choice but to blurt my way to freedom: “What do most visitors want to hear about?” “Well, our No. 1 questions have to do with Lowell’s trolley system and its canal barges. You see—” “That’s so great. Anyway, what’s your second most popular question?” “Where’s the restroom.” Like a genie summoned by its magic word, Fuzzy materializes out of nowhere. Her big blue eyes shine from behind her thick glasses. Her long blond hair is a little sweaty, a little sour, from the hot car ride. She demands to be taken to this toilet she’s only just now heard so much about. When we return, I launch a pre- emptive strike against Ranger Trolley-Barge: “Third most popular question?” The ranger shrugs and exhales in the way people do when a big meanie’s not letting them talk about mulepowered cotton spindles. He points down the street. “Kerouac’s typewriter. Last building on the left.” Tine and I herd the kids. It’s only four or five blocks, so we reach our destination in a trim 45 minutes. I stare in confusion at the sign identifying the building as the former boardinghouse for young women who worked in the textile mills. My ears burn at the idea that the ranger has tried to trick me into learning. We wade through German exchange students and hesitantly ask a tour guide about the typewriter. “Oh, sure!” he says. “We’re busy right now”—he waves at the gangly Germans—“so I’ll take you up the back stairs.” And there it is: Jack Kerouac’s Underwood. The holy relic sits in a Plexiglas display case. It’s okay, I guess. But next to it is something that takes my breath away. His knapsack. The bag isn’t anything special, just olive-drab canvas. Maybe army surplus, maybe a souvenir from Kerouac’s short stint in the merchant marines. But, oh! The things he neatly fit into its small confines! Clothes, a sewing kit, a sleeping mask, a corkscrew, water bottles, wallet, notebooks and a whole mess of pots and pans. With a shudder, I think about the unholy jack-in-the-box that is the trunk of our Toyota. Whatever I need is always, always trapped beneath stuff that I can’t remember why we packed in the first place, or even own. I return to the Zen simplicity of Kerouac’s knapsack. My vision blurs. I press my cheek against the Plexiglas and contemplate those efficiently nested, battered tin pots. Kerouac was a genius. twenty he Memory Babe account of the ’67 road trip tells us that Kerouac spent the first leg getting blitzed on cognac and amphetamines. By the time Chaput stopped in Maine, Kerouac was in a chatty mood and, writes Nicosia, “made a big hit with the French people in the local bars.” The exact location of this bonhomie isn’t known, so we have to improvise. It’s not hard. We’re right in the middle of Quebec’s Construction Holiday. And, if you’re looking for Francophones in Maine during the Vacances de la Construction, your best bet is Old Orchard Beach. It’s been the Quebecois’ go-to middle-class resort since 1853, when the southern leg of the Grand Trunk Railroad connected Montreal with the closest all-season Atlantic harbour. It didn’t take Quebec beach-seekers long to figure out that if those Maine waters were warm enough to stay ice-free all winter, they must be pretty sweet in summer. And so, for two weeks straddling July/August, that little spot on the Maine coast becomes the Quebec Riviera. Tine consults the vintage road map we bought on eBay (to increase the odds of actually covering the same blacktop as Kerouac). It points us up the I-95. The drive up the coast is only 140 clicks*, just barely long enough for me to retell the plot of the new Winniethe-Pooh movie 57 times. I’d taken Fuzzy to see it a few weeks earlier, and now it’s a point of obsession (hers, not mine). If, as Joan Didion has suggested, “We tell stories in order to live,” I’d add that we retell cartoon stories in order to live through car rides with small children. Here’s the movie’s plot in strokes far too broad to meet the Fuzz’s approval: Pooh runs out of honey, schemes to get more. Complications ensue courtesy of the Backson, an unseen beast credited with all manner of ills. Owl says the Backson scribbles in books. Tigger says it makes you sleep in. Eeyore says it gave him a cold. But Kanga, the group’s only parent, sounds the heaviest note: “The Backson steals your youth.” Aside from being a popular topic for car chatter, Winnie-the-Pooh has provided Fuzzy with her first running joke. In the middle of a conversation, she’s taken to stopping mid-sentence, feigning an exaggerated look of deep thought, then asking, “Hey. Who’s the Backson?” Sometimes she holds her deadpan expression a little longer, but it always ends with a chuckle eruption. We hear about the Backson. A lot. opular wisdom holds that southern Maine is a hotbed of bilingualism, in service of the mighty Quebec tourist dollar. This is either a lie or our campground is the exception. Twelve years of living in Montreal improved my Prairie-boy French considerably, but my conversational comfort zone is still narrow. As a result, I celebrate successful comprehension with wildly exaggerated enthusiasm and gestures. I fear my neighbours and local shopkeepers know me as a guy who is extremely passionate about saying good morning and not needing a plastic bag. I hope they’ve concocted an exciting backstory to explain my cognitive defects, but they probably just think I hit my head. All of which goes to say that if it falls to me to act as a translator, then we’re in deep merde. Yet, again and again I feel obligated to intervene during comedies of error between Francophone campers who want to buy two cooked lobsters at the poolside snack bar and the cheerily oblivious American clerks ready to ring up eight uncooked lobsters and a bucket of slaw. At the beach, a small plane trails one of those banners-for-hire that I didn’t think existed anymore: “Rocco’s has the Best Poutine.” That pretty much sums it up: Hey French people, we know you like a certain food, so here’s a sign in English to tell you all about it. he Fuzz has made no secret of wanting to roast marshmallows. So, that night, as the sun goes down on Old Orchard Beach, we set about building a campfire. When I reflect on my years as a Boy Scout, three things stand out. The first was my campfire prowess: I wasn’t much of a scout when it came to earning badges, but boy could I get a pyre ablaze. The second was the annual, end-of-year weekend campout in Dinosaur Provincial Park, which saw a bunch of hyperactive near-teens scrape their knees raw while scouring hoodoos for overlooked fossils. The third? Eternal embarrassment. Belvedere Parkway Elementary School gymnasium, Thursday night: A meeting of Calgary Boy Scout Troop No. 159 always began with roll call. We stood in a circle while, in best pseudo-military fashion, Scouter Les alphabetically barked out surnames: “BERGMAN!” “Here!” “JONES!” “Here!” “KELLY!” “Here!” “MARTIN!” This is when things went south. Scouter Les expected to be answered with wellenunciated, crystal-clear confidence. A mush-mouthed, eyes-to-floor “Here” was immediately admonished with a booming “I. CAN’T. HEAR. HIM!” In theory, this was meant to build character. In practice, it was terrifying: I was a mumbler. As the alphabet marched on, I broke out in a cold sweat at the prospect of again being on the business end of Scouter Les’s ire. And yet, even with adrenalin flooding my body, I could never meet his standards: “MARTIN!” “Here!” “I. CAN’T. HEAR. HIM!” Then—lungs full, shoulders back—a second try: “HERE!!!!” It was just before the end of my last year that I finally realized Scouter Les wasn’t busting my chops— and he wasn’t saying, “I can’t hear him.” Rather, he was simply doing his best to pronounce the name of the African kid who had the misfortune to follow me in roll call. And this is why, every week for two years, I would loudly shriek a second “HERE!” whenever it was poor Chima Nkemdirim’s turn to answer. Totally steamrolled him. Nobody ever acknowledged my serial outbursts. This is not, however, the scouting story I tell to The Fuzz. (Chima turned out okay, by the way; today he’s Mayor Nenshi’s chief of staff.) No, the story I tell her goes roughly like this: “When Daddy was a Boy Scout, he was the World’s Best Campfire Builder.” Unfortunately, this claim didn’t jive with reality. “Dad,” she begins, “how come your wood isn’t burning?” I live for these kinds of teachable moments. Tonight’s lesson: Other people keep us from fulfilling our potential. “The people at the store sold us a bag of wet wood.” Fuzzy is into expressing her feelings: “I feel like… it isn’t wet.” “IT’S WET.” What little smoke I coax from the sad pile floats directly into my eyes. I hear Fuzzy mumble (“Doesn’t look wet to me”), but I let it go. Wiping away tears, I sit back on my heels and am met by my daughter’s glare. “This is a terrible campfire,” she declares, hand on hip. “No, no,” I protest weakly as I ransack the trunk of the car. Unread newspapers. A roadmap of Ontario. Blank (I hope) pages from Tine’s sketchbook. I wad the whole lot underneath a teepee of fire-retardant logs, light a match and the firepit erupts in glorious flames. Handing my daughter a marshmallow hastily impaled on a twig, I steer her by the shoulders toward the fire with much urgency. I shout to Tine, who is playing with Little Man nearby. We have two, three minutes tops, before we’ve got a mountain of cold ash and a pile of barely charred wood. Not long after, as she picks gooey marshmallow off her stick, Fuzzy stares down the road where a perfect family basks in the perfect glow of a perfect fire. “Dad, why can’t we have a campfire like that one?” twenty-one e get back on the I-95 North*, taking it to the border crossing** and then hugging the TransCanada up the New Brunswick border ******** until we hit the mighty Saint Lawrence River. For reasons unknown, Kerouac found his family’s homeland “depressing” and skipped the parish archives. Instead, lured by the promise of the newly opened Expo 67, he convinced Joe Chaput to drive to Montreal. Despite the fact that our Rivière-du-Loup experience was limited to sitting at a greasy, cigarette-scarred picnic table next to the treeless parking lot of a big-box grocery store (hunger tantrums necessitated emergency rations of baby carrots and hummus), I wouldn’t call Rivière-du-Loup depressing. But I totally understand why Kerouac would ditch it for the bright lights of Expo 67. One of the perks of living in Montreal is seeing the various remnants of Expo 67: the bright blue metro cars running on silent rubber tires; the skeletal frame of the old American pavilion on Ile Sainte-Hélène; a few statues here and there. For the city, it’s a reminder of the good old days. Me, it just feeds my 1960s fetish. I was born in 1970, and came of age in the ’80s, but it’s the mid ’60s that are my golden era. The cars, the music, the movies…. Once a year, I enlist a travelling Thai tailor to cut me a blazer to swingin’ Carnaby Street specs. I used to explain away my obsession by joking that I liked the world better before I was in it. Then came Fuzzy and Little Man. My own dad died when I was barely out of Boy Scouts; he’s been gone longer than I ever knew him. That, combined with Fuzzy’s own tentative existential angst (mostly confusion about where she was during family stories set before she was born), makes me worry about my own demise with alarming regularity. I get a real kick out of my kids, which is fortunate because they’ve wrung the enjoyment out of pretty much everything else I used to like doing (sleeping late, reading an entire newspaper, taking more than five minutes to eat dinner). But I’m finding that even the many joyful moments have a wistful chaser: What if I had died yesterday? What if I missed this? And what if, by virtue of some all-knowing afterlife, I knew what I’d missed? Well, this ghost would really feel cheated. And yet, I kinda sorta don’t think there is anything after this life. Then, as Tine and the kids nap during the drive out of Rivière-du-Loup, it hits me: I’ve latched onto the mid-’60s, and not the ’50s or ’30s or 1700s, precisely because it was the time immediately before I existed. Maybe getting chummy with the void that I know came before me, one scratchy vinyl LP or two-inch suit lapel at a time, is really just a way to get right with the void that I’m scared will come next. ack Kerouac and Joe Chaput never saw Expo. For reasons unknown, they got as far as Lévis, Que., about two hours west of Rivière-du-Loup, and began the homeward leg of that final road trip. (Technically, it was Kerouac’s last full road trip. The following year, Chaput chauffeured a moribund Kerouac from Lowell to St. Petersburg, Fla. In the fall of ’69, Kerouac returned to Lowell in a body bag. We turn the car southward* and head into Vermont’s Green Mountains. We stop in a quaint campground along a pristine stream. While Fuzzy drags Tine on a washroom inspection, Little Man and I amble over to the office. The owner, a sixtysomething man in an “I LoVermont” ball cap, asks where we’re headed. “We’re driving to Lowell because that’s where Jack Kerouac—” “Don’t know him,” interjects Mr. Campsite. He says the words just a little too quickly, in the way that people in the movies talk when they’re hiding a secret. But the glaze of his eyes tells me he: (a) seriously doesn’t know who Jack Kerouac was, (b) doesn’t care to find out, and (c) is bored. I should take my cue to leave, but I’m hooked on the rush of having a casual conversation in English, however mundane. Besides, Little Man is happily sprinting up and down the wheelchair ramp. So I run my mouth. The writer? On The Road? There’s gonna be a movie even? Beats? Beatniks? I throw out anything I can think of, but nothing sticks. Finally, I bottom out. “Well, he was in pretty bad shape when he took this trip.” I have no idea why I offer this information. I watch in wonder as my arm mimes the drinky-drinky motion. “Died not long after.” Mr. Campsite perks up. “If you’re into that, you should drive up Dog Mountain. Fellow built a church up there, then—” He raises a hand to his temple and makes the shooty-shooty motion. urns out Mr. Campsite was more or less right, and also completely wrong. Right: Yes, an artist named Stephen Huneck did build a replica of a 19thcentury country chapel on a grassy hillside in the late ’90s. Yes, he committed suicide in 2010. Wrong: The entire point. Huneck loved animals and, after a miraculous comeback from the brink of death (lung infection), he decided that kindred spirits needed a place to remember their deceased pets. He set out to build it and, over three years, that’s what he did. As Little Man and Fuzzy scamper around playful carvings of doggie angels ascending to heaven, Tine and I stand in awe of the little white clapboard chapel and its immaculate pup-friendly grounds. The dog-shaped wooden pews. The statue garden, where busts of noble canines stand on eternal squirrel patrol from atop ionic columns. The floor-to-ceiling stained-glass windows. The hundreds of notes stuck to the walls by grieving humans: “My world crashed when we said goodbye.” “Your daddy misses you.” “My one true friend.” Tine talks with Huneck’s widow, who sells his artwork in the gallery next to the chapel, and buys a welcome mat depicting one dog greeting another’s rump. Little Man giggles while cautiously petting the dogs Huneck left behind. Fuzzy pees in a toilet with a handcarved dog-tail handle. She flushes twice and her little hand is intercepted going for three. I stand in the bright sunshine and watch all the people running with unleashed dogs in the meadow. I can’t believe that we almost missed this place. Then I get angry at how we found it, that a life that created so much could be so crassly summarized with shooty-shooty. Then I feel ashamed: Or drinky-drinky. On the final stretch back to Lowell, the Fuzz peppers Tine and me with questions about dead dogs we have known. She makes us catalogue their names ad nauseam. I don’t press her on the subject, but from what I can figure out, this is the Fuzz’s take on death: When people or animals die, they go somewhere else but we can still see them and talk to them and play with them when we want to. Works for me. twenty-two he U.S.-3 South* drops us back into Lowell, its previously quiet downtown now in the riotous throes of its annual folk festival. We park, then wage an epic struggle to extract the strollers from the trunk. We roll victorious into the happy crowd. A few blocks beyond the core, the revelry now little more than a dull roar echoing off the low brick buildings, we follow (I kid you not) French Street until it dead-ends at the eastern canal. Jack Kerouac was born in Lowell. He grew up in Lowell. He’s buried in Lowell. But, as short as his life was, he didn’t spend all that much of it in Lowell: Aside from that one year in the late ’60s spent at home with maman, his adult life happened elsewhere—and yet, for all his vagabonding, Lowell seemed to resonate as home. In The Vanity of Duluoz, published the year following that last road trip (and the last novel published during his lifetime), Kerouac reworked his memories of being Lowell High’s star quarterback, rhapsodizing about the town. But, just as On The Road never got its full due during Kerouac’s lifetime, it took a long time for Lowell to love Ti-Jean back. The Kerouac Commemorative Park opened along the canal in 1988; aside from a simple gravesite in the town’s cemetery, it was Lowell’s first public acknowledgment of its most famous son. It speaks to Lowell’s rejection of Kerouac that, even then, almost 20 years after his death and well into his American Original sainthood, the modest park was met with resistance. (One teetotalling city councillor was particularly vocal in his opposition to remembering some hopped-up beatnik.) A series of curved stone benches encloses the small, shady park. Inside the perimeter stand seven red-marble monoliths. This evening the park is empty except for a half-dozen teenagers on skateboards. One by one, they build up speed, ollie onto a bench and then grind its short curve before landing among the monoliths. When we arrive, they’re loudly debating style—“There’s no point riding if you just jump on at the end!” argues one kid—but they go quiet when we enter the circle. They keep skating, though, expertly weaving around us. Fuzzy and Little Man stare with open mouths, their slack jaws silently announcing: “I want to do that.” A sculptor named Ben Woitena made the benches and the monoliths, inscribing each with a choice passage from one of Kerouac’s books. He arranged the benches in a circle surrounding the monoliths as a nod to Kerouac’s interest in Buddhism. The design brings to mind The Dharma Bums, a novel Kerouac published the year after On The Road, at the height of his stardom. In one scene, the Kerouac surrogate asks his buddy why he’s doodling a circle in the dirt road. “I’m doin’ a magic mandala,” he’s told. “They’re the Buddhist designs that are always circles filled with things, the circle representing the void and the things illusion, see.” And so, as our kids clamber and skateboards clatter, Tine and I sit in the void and we read. The monoliths serve as a pretty good Kerouac primer: There’s poetry, bits of the best novels, some self-styled Beat “scripture.” But the words that give me pause are the ones making up the gloriously breathless run-on sentence that ends On The Road: “So in America when the sun goes down and I sit on the old broken-down river pier watching the long, long skies over New Jersey and sense all that raw land that rolls in one unbelievable huge bulge over to the West Coast, and all that road going, and all the people dreaming in the immensity of it, and in Iowa I know by now the children must be crying in the land where they let the children cry, and tonight the stars’ll be out, and don’t you know that God is Pooh Bear?” I laugh. Sure, Jack, sure. But, hey: Who’s the Backson? S twenty-three irector Walter Salles’ adaptation of On the Road won’t be on Calgary screens for at least four months, but considering it’s taken Hollywood 55 years to film a book that took three weeks to write, what’s the hurry? As soon as On the Road was published in 1957, Jack Kerouac dreamt of Tinseltown lucre and early retirement. It looked like it was going to happen, too: On June 30, 1958, Billboard announced that MGM was ready to begin filming, with Marlon Brando in the lead role. That film was never made. It wasn’t until 1980—when Francis Ford Coppola, hot off the success of Apocalypse Now, paid $95,000 for the book’s rights—that On The Road got back on track. Sort of. Coppola blew through a string of screenwriters, including his son Roman (co-writer of this summer’s sleeper hit Moonrise Kingdom). Nothing worked. Then Coppola saw The Motorcycle Diaries, Walter Salles’ 2004 take on Che Guevara’s road-trip memoir: Finally, someone with that elusive golden touch for transforming books about fast-driving sexy twentysomethings into movies about faster-driving sexier twentysomethings. Yet a mystery remains: Why did that 1958 production fail, anyway? Kerouac mythology maintains that his greedy agent played hardball with the studio, and lost. Could be. But there might be another reason. After Brando died in 2004, his estate produced a 1957 letter, in which Kerouac proposed a radical cinematic vision: The entire movie would be shot from the point of view of a moving car. The audience would hear Brando, but all they’d see was asphalt and hood ornament. Huh. So, Mutiny on the Bounty or basically Knight Rider with an Edsel? Tough call. —James Martin
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