1. style and fashion
2. footwear
3. shoes

F O OT W E A R N E W S . C O M
/
FEBRUARY 2, 2015
/
@ F O OT W E A R N E W S
SHOW ISSUE
L.A. TIMES
Why Cali classics
appeal to designer
Edgardo Osorio
STEVE’S
NEW TUNE
How Mr. Madden
and Iggy Azalea
plan to co-produce
the next big hit
The storied designer
opens up about his
major men’s play,
sleepless nights
and Rihanna.
Reading
Manolo
SIXTIES
SWIRL
Mod boots make
a shapely return
with sculpted
block heels and
go-go cuts
2/3-5
2/8-9
2/8-9
2/8-9
2/12-14
2/17-19
2/17-19
2/22-24
2/23-25
3/1-3
FFANY
YELLOW BOX SHOWROOM 1370 6 TH AVE. STE 601B, NYC
COTTON STATES FASHION EXHIBITORS
MICHIGAN WOMEN’S WEAR MARKET
TRU SHOW
THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKET
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MA XINE & SANJANA
INSIDER
6 The New 70 Michael Atmore talks about
FN’s big birthday and its bold new print and online
initiatives.
9 Hit Maker Steve Madden is banking on cool
things from Iggy Azalea and her footwear line.
12 FN Spy Kenneth Cole’s top picks from the
Sundance Film Festival … Jimmy Choo’s Michelle
Obama moment.
14 What’s Trending Deckers reports a mixed
quarter and Kurt Geiger launches kids’ biz; plus,
FN’s most-clicked Instagrams of the week.
16 Show & Tell Five hot launches from the
OR Winter Market, from Under Armour’s fat tires
to Keen’s made-in-America push.
FEATURES
19 Circle Back Sixties-style mod boots come
around again for this first look at fall ’15.
26 Top 10 Couture Impressive feets from the
spring ’15 collections in Paris.
28 Artist’s Eye Manolo Blahnik offers an intimate
glimpse into his master craft.
MARKETPLACE
35 Mucha Lucha The Shoe of the Week from
Pierre Hardy has a brash attitude, not unlike
Mexican wrestlers.
36 Inspiration Point Edgardo Osorio’s fall
Aquazzura collection strikes a classic-rock chord.
38 Coclico’s Conversion How the New York
28
36
women’s brand revamped its look.
39 Women’s Buzz Georgia May Jagger fronts
Mulberry ads, while Sportie LA debuts slides.
40 Good Taste What Seychelles collaborator
Corey Lynn Calter can’t miss and can’t stand.
42 Crowd Pleasers Introducing men’s brand
Thursday Boot Co.
42 Closet Case Footwear tips from record-
40
breaking globetrotter and blogger Lee Abbamonte.
44 Make Zur Driving-moc comfort in a chic boot —
that’s what’s next from Robert Zur.
46 Burning Question Athletic retailers offer
predictions for the next hot fitness craze.
47 Athletic Buzz Reebok speaks to “Freaks,” and
two West Coast brands pay homage to home.
48 FN Pick Before Sunday’s big game, there was
another football showdown.
2
CONTENTS
9
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In memory of
VINCE CAMUTO
1936-2015
LOVING HUSBAND, FATHER AND FRIEND
Please join us as we celebrate the life of Vince Camuto.
MEMORIAL SERVICE
THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 5, 2015, 10AM
St. Ignatius of Loyola
980 Park Avenue, New York, New York 10028
EDITOR’S NOTE
TRAFFIC REPORT
The most-read articles and blog posts on
footwearnews.com from Jan. 23 to 30.
1
The New 70
T
6
trendiest stories that resonate with the
industry and the consumer audience.
In the next few months, you will
witness the full extent of these changes
as we integrate elements of our web coverage into the print product and vice versa.
The power of our new consumer audience
will begin to inform certain aspects of the
print product — and that integration will
only enhance the flow of information
VINCE CAMUTO: OVER THE YEARS
From touching photos with his wife to side-by side images
with his peers, FN captured some of the most memorable
photos of the legendary Vince Camuto, who died on Jan. 21.
2
SAG AWARDS FASHION PHOTOS
2015: THE BEST SHOES ON THE
RED CARPET
It’s not the Oscars, but the Screen Actors Guild Awards had
plenty of appeal for readers, who clicked through our gallery
of stylish stars like Eddie Redmayne and Julianne Moore.
“The revamped print magazine
is part of a bigger story.
With our incredible history
and industry clout, we are
determined to take on
the world.”
3
EMMA WATSON SPEAKS AT THE UN;
TOP FOOTWEAR FROM THE STAR
No longer just the young female character in the “Harry
Potter” series, Emma Watson has stepped onto the
diplomatic stage in a big way. FN showcased some of the
actress’ key footwear styles.
between both sides of our audience.
While our web and print products
evolve, our commitment to stellar live
events is paramount. The Footwear News
Achievement Awards is the industry's
equivalent of the Oscars, and our annual
Summit is the only gathering of its kind.
Moving forward, both of our trademark
events will reflect our new direction and
command of the global marketplace.
This year’s FN CEO Summit, May 11-13
in Miami, will coincide with the publication
of our 70th Anniversary Issue, celebrating
the many exclusives, launches and historic
moments that we’ve broken in these pages.
The Summit, at the hot new Edition Hotel
in Miami Beach, will shine a spotlight on
the industry’s biggest and most transformational brand stories in this new era of social
media.
So, in our 70th year, we will take a moment to acknowledge our past as we race
into the future.
This is just the beginning of the even
greater things to come.
4
HOT APRÈS-SKI BOOTS
The Northeast didn’t receive as much snow as predicted,
but that didn’t stop readers from looking for some of the
coolest cold-weather boots to stay stylishly warm in.
5
MEN’S FALL ’15 FASHION:
TOP 20 SHOES FROM THE SHOWS
The European collections were exciting, with a mix of
creative sneakers and sandals.
The FN CEO Summit will put big brands and big issues front and center.
PHOTOS: FN ARCHIVES
his will not be a quiet birthday for Footwear News.
To the contrary, FN’s 70th
year will be marked by the
most dramatic and important changes in our history. Seven decades
young, under new owners Penske Media
Corp., we are repositioning the brand for
serious growth in the years to come. We
now have the tools to take our insider access and industry-bible status global.
The evolution (or revolution) is evident
in this issue, our second since relaunching
the publication last week with a special
tribute to Vince Camuto.
Sporting a clean, more sophisticated
look, stronger photography and a commitment to covering the latest trends in a
faster and more timely way, the new weekly
puts a finer point on the world’s fascination with shoes. And the improvements and
upgrades don’t end there. Some behind-thescenes moves, including better paper and a
bigger minimum book size, reflect our continued commitment to our print product
and our loyal industry audience.
The revamped print magazine is part of
a bigger story, however. With our incredible
history and industry clout, we are determined to take on the world.
Last month’s launch of our new website,
footwearnews.com, instantly repositioned
us as a fully realized digital powerhouse.
Catering to both the industry reader and
shoe-loving consumers, the site allows us
to cover every breaking story around the
globe.
The result of both initiatives will be a
faster, fully dimensional view of a market
that demands a powerful daily site and
a thoughtful, analytical and trend-right
weekly. From athletic to high fashion and
everything in between, the talented FN
staff now has two dazzling showcases for
new designers, the hottest brands and the
VINCE CAMUTO
1936-2015
THANK YOU FOR MAKING WOMEN LOOK AND FEEL MORE BEAUTIFUL,
FROM OUR HEADS TO OUR SOLES.
YOU WILL BE MISSED.
June 2–4, 2015
TUESDAY–THURSDAY
New York Hilton Midtown
& Member Showrooms
OPENING NIGHT INDUSTRY EVENT
Shop FFANY 365 days a year
FFANY365.COM
Tuesday, June 2nd: Brasserie 81⁄2
Event details & tickets at FFANY.ORG
SAVE THE DATES:
@ffanyshoeshow
August 4–6, (Tuesday–Thursday)
December 2–4, (Wednesday–Friday)
INSIDER
Hit
Maker
Steve Madden has a knack for
partnering with some of the music
industry’s biggest stars on the rise.
His newest major act: Iggy Azalea.
By Kristen Henning
teve Madden is feeling “fancy.”
The brand unveils its second collection with singer Iggy Azalea this
month at FN Platform for fall ’15.
Meanwhile, the collaboration’s spring
collection of 13 styles — which hit Steve Madden
stores and the website last Friday — will arrive at
Macy’s, Dillards and other independents in midFebruary.
“We are so like-minded. The girls who listen to
Iggy wear Steve Madden; she talks to my customers,” said Madden. “She’s very intelligent, creative
— and a kook, like me.”
Azalea told FN that she was the driving force
behind the partnership. “It’s a brand that young
women actually wear. I kind of hassled him for a
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
S
Azalea is nominated for a Grammy for Best Rap Album.
9
IGGY’S INSIDE
SCOOP
Azalea on stage last year
at the Steve Madden Music
series in New York.
First pair of heels: “I think
I was 13. I bought denim
high heels with an open toe.
They were disgusting. It was
when boho chic was in.”
Style icon: “Gwen Stefani is
someone whose style I absolutely love. It’s really hard to
keep your style the same as
you get older, but she found
a way to be uniquely herself.
She still finds a way to keep it
interesting.”
10
INSIDER
Cole. Madden also tapped two
$60.3 million, and Brian Atwood,
bloggers for capsule collections,
which was purchased from The Jones
first collaborating with The
Group in March 2014.
Blonde Salad blogger Chiara
“We’re trying to help them be more
Ferragni in late 2013. Then,
profitable and maximize what they’re
for fall 2014, he worked with
already doing,” Madden said.
Shea Marie, the Los AngelesFor Brian Atwood, the company is
based designer behind Peace considering expanding the line and
Love Shea.
lowering some of the retail prices,
And the Steve MadMadden said.
den Music Series
Overall, the founder anticipates a
— which has feastrong performance in 2015. “It’s going
tured Katy Perry,
to be a fantastic year — I’m excited
Lady Gaga and
about it,” he said.
Paloma Faith, among others — will be
back later this year with New Zealand
duo Broods and Canadian songwriter
Grimes on deck.
Plus, the company is forging ahead
with several new brand additions. Just
last week, Steve Madden announced
the acquisition of Blondo, a brand
that makes waterproof leather
boots, from Regence Footwear
Inc. and 3074153 Canada Inc.
The heritage label,
founded more than 100
years ago, reported trailing
12-month net sales of $25
million as of Nov. 30.
Madden’s acquisition
Caption Madden
spree already includes
Caption and
tk Azalea
Dolce Vita, which was
acquired last August for
Dream duet: “There are so
many people who would be
my dream. Missy Elliot, Outkast. I’d love to work with Nick
Jonas and Sam Smith.”
Best city to perform in:
“Los Angeles is always my
favorite because [it’s where I
live]. It’s a good atmosphere.”
Music muse: Missy Elliot.
“She is the most directly
influential as a female rapper.
She’s tried different ideas,
and she’s fashion-forward —
very bold, in your face. She’s
a big inspiration.”
Favorite social media: “I
have a love-hate relationship
with Twitter. I like posting on
Instagram. I only follow about
eight people — Jennifer Lopez
is the most interesting.”
One of Azalea’s latest musical collaborations was with Jennifer Lopez.
PHOTOS: PORTRAIT AND ON STAGE: COURTESY OF STEVE MADDEN; ALL OTHERS: GETTY IMAGES
while,” joked the Australiaborn rapper, referring to
the first time she and
Madden met, when the
star performed at the
Steve Madden Music
Series last May in
New York.
A spring
The spring collection
’15 style
features 1990s-inspired
looks, including neoprene
sport sandals, metallic slides and chunky
platforms.
“[My style] is very colorful, quirky
and fun, and that’s what I wanted in
the shoes,” said Azalea. “Something
that your boyfriend might hate, but
your girlfriends would love. There’s
something carefree in that.”
Azalea added that these shoes will
create new options for her on-stage attire — currently, she has all of her footwear for performances custom-made.
“I’m very comfortable and always in an
ankle boot,” she added.
Meanwhile, Madden is already
brainstorming about his next big “get”
in the music world. “Morgan Trainer
and Rita Ora are great,” he said. “I
would love to work with them.”
The shoe man inked his first musical collaboration in 2013, when the
brand partnered with artist Keyshia
Kenneth
Cole with
Sundance
volunteers
Marc Fisher
for spring ’15
Michelle and Barack Obama
On Set
Moore’s Birks
Choo Love
Michelle Obama really loves her
Jimmy Choos. During a recent
trip to India, the First Lady was
spotted in not one, but five
Jimmy Choo styles — from the
brand’s Aza pump to the Attila
flat. The First Lady “is a woman
of our time: confident, glamorous, stylish, adores fashion,
relatable,” said Creative Director Sandra Choi. Plus, Choi
admires her fashion picks.
“I like the way she supports
young designer talent, mixing
them with more established
brands,” she said.
Dance Party
There were a ton of big-screen hits and
key footwear moments in Park City.
Julianne Moore is on a roll. The
star is racking up honors for
The Sundance Film Festival was once again a flurry of celebrities and
her emotional performance in
parties, as well as movies — and the footwear industry
“Still Alice.” When she’s not
was there to jump in on the action. Blundstone was
posing for the flashbulbs,
the official shoe brand of the festivities, and Kenneth
though, Moore likes to keep
Cole designed and donated the volunteer uniforms
it casual in her Birkenfor the 13th year in a row. Meanwhile, Merrell opted
stocks. She’s such a fan,
for an interactive 4-D Oculus Rift setup in partnerin fact, that she was
ship with Rolling Stone. During Spy’s visit, Chris
photographed wearPine,
who was in town to promote Sundance entry
ing the sandals on set.
“Z for Zachariah,” dropped in and was quickly ushered
“Julianne is a longtime
upstairs to the private bar space to prevent a crush in
Birkenstock wearer,”
Moore with
the small downstairs lounge. Also, Emu Australia and
said brand President
Kristen Stewart
Sorel hosted pop-ups during the powerhouse twoDavid Kahan. “We
on the set
week event, which closed yesterday. Meanwhile, Cole
consider her a true
of “Still Alice”
partnered with the Sundance Institute on a vignette to
friend of the brand
fête the volunteers’ work, titled “Just Sundance.” Here,
who just happens to
the designer shares his favorite films and a Park City
be a fashion icon.”
And as a true friend
restaurant that earned his raves.
would, Kahan sent the
actress a special gift to
Top films: “Two documentaries that touch you in very differmark her Golden Globe win
ent ways: ‘The Hunting Ground’ and ‘What Happened, Miss
last month. “It was the
Simone?’”
very first pair off our
Park City activities: “Visiting the New Frontier exhibit and
new gold Birkenstocks,
skiing.”
taken right off the proRestaurant of choice: Zoom.
duction line,” he said.
Oscar favorites: “’Selma’ and ‘Whiplash,’ which opened the festival.”
12
INSIDER
Vince Camuto
Remembering
Vince
A legend was honored last
Wednesday. At a private funeral
service for Vince Camuto in
Greenwich, Conn., family, close
friends and top industry
players, including Tory Burch,
Terry Lundgren, Tommy
Hilfiger, Kenneth Cole and the
Simpson family — Jessica,
husband Eric and mom Tina —
all came to pay their respects.
This Thursday, a public memorial will be held at 10 a.m. at
the Church of St. Ignatius
Loyola in New York.
By Kristen Henning
with contributions from
Jennie Bell and Nikara Johns
Next, Moore will face off for an Oscar against Reese Witherspoon, Felicity Jones and more.
PHOTOS: COLE AND FISHER: COURTESY OF BRANDS; MOORE AND OBAMA: GETTY IMAGES; CAMUTO: YOSHI MICHAELI
A new season welcomes
another campaign moment.
Marc Fisher’s latest shoot,
set to unveil in mid-February,
celebrates spring ’15 product
from the newly launched LTD
line. Behind the scenes at the
campaign shoot, the vibe was
playful, laid-back and casual.
The featured shoes included
wedges and gold-accented
sandals. “It was all about a day
in the life — running errands,
heading to work, en route to
meet friends, picking up the
kids from a play date — and the
shoes to take you through the
day,” said Shirley Imig, senior
marketing director. Songs from
Beyonce, Lykke Li and Charli
XCX were in the air all day,
pumping up the spirited shoot.
A LICENSED DIVISION OF LJP INTERNATIONAL
Las Vegas Convention Center, South Hall - Booth For additional information or to schedule a meeting, please contact us at [email protected] or WHAT’S TRENDING
INSTAGRAMS
OF THE WEEK
QUOTES
OF THE WEEK
The 5 most-liked photos
from @FootwearNews
Overheard in the industry
1
#SAGawards red carpet: Emma Stone
in @louboutinworld peep-toe.
Ugg ad featuring
Tom Brady
and his mom
“When describing
our brand’s latest
collaboration, I
spoke recklessly
using terms that
were both ignorant
and offensive.”
A.P.C.’s Jean Touitou, after his
remarks about Timberland
Deckers’ Holiday Woes
2
Luptia Nyong’o wore @sophia
webster pumps. #sagawards
3
This is how we like to think of our
winter whites. @sophiawebster
“The fact that
[Donna Karan]
invited me to take
over this space for
a couple of months
was such an honor,
and the fact that
it’s in London,
and I was born
and trained here
— it does feel like
coming home.”
Paul Andrew on his pop-up shop
4
14
Skechers ‘Super’ Ad
Returns with Rose
Under Armour
Develops Shoe Team
Known for its Super Bowl ads, Skechers
made a last-minute play this year with
a spot featuring Pete Rose. “Pete isn’t
just a baseball legend, he’s an American
icon,” said Michael Greenberg, president
of Skechers USA Inc. “Besides, what
better place is there for Pete to state his
case for the [Baseball] Hall [of Fame]?
Maybe the hundred million-plus people
watching will turn the tide.”
Under Armour Inc. continues to build its
roster. The firm announced a new SVP
of footwear, Peter Ruppe, last week. The
executive will develop the commercial
and design strategy for the category. An
athletic veteran, he joins the company
from investment firm Alchemy Global,
where he was president. He also spent
25 years at Nike, where he held several
positions, including VP of footwear.
INSIDER
Has the good Dior girl gone bad?
Latex boots stole #coutureweek.
5
Superfan shoes can be super stylish
too! #SuperBowl
“I’m finally able to
tell you ... that I will
be playing Belle in
Disney’s new liveaction “Beauty
and the Beast”!
My 6-year-old self
is on the ceiling —
heart bursting.”
Emma Watson on Facebook
Skechers has fielded Super Bowl ads many times before, starring Joe Montana, Kim Kardashian and Mr. Quiggly, the bulldog.
PHOTOS: UGG, UNDER ARMOUR, SKECHERS: COURTESY OF BRANDS; PAUL ANDREW: THOMAS IANNACCONE; JEAN TOUITOU: FAIRCHILD ARCHIVES; EMMA WATSON: GETTY IMAGES
In a traditionally strong quarter, Deckers Brands was hit by slowing
demand, decreased store traffic, inventory-management challenges
TOP
STORY and mild temperatures.
As a result of the tough third quarter, which ended on Dec. 31,
2014, the Goleta, Calif.-based company said it was assessing its
merchandising strategy, international-expansion and store-opening plans.
Ugg Australia saw soft sales in November due to retail-traffic declines
and warm weather. And some of the brand’s newer product performed
better than expected, according to executives, leaving the company short for
reorders. On the bright side, Deckers reported stronger sales from Hoka One
One and a positive outlook for Teva and Sanuk.
Net income was $156.7 million, or $4.50 per diluted share. Revenue
during the quarter reached $784.7 million, a record for the company, but it
was still a miss compared with the $813.7 million that analysts had expected.
JOIN US AT
FFANY, NEW YORK (FEB 3-5)
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Show & Tell
These five cool new launches caught our eye at the
Outdoor Retailer Winter Market in Salt Lake City.
By JENNIE BELL
limited numbers for $300,
comes outfitted with 10 millimeters of merino wool, 1,000
grams of Thinsulate and 10
millimeters of Bogs’ proprietary
Neo-Tech synthetic rubber.
UNDER ARMOUR
The Baltimore-based athletic
brand, which lately has been
getting aggressive in the running category, racked up buzz
with its Fat Tire GTX trail shoe
and hiking boot. Dave Dombrow, VP and creative director
of footwear at Under Armour,
said the product team was
inspired by seeing fat-tire bikes
on the trail and teamed up with
Michelin to create a unique
midsole based on the look. “It’s
a bottom-loaded super-sole,”
he noted. The trail version is
water-resistant and uses the
brand’s Charge foam cushioning. It will retail for $150 and
hits stores on July 1. The boot
(above) features a Boa closure,
a Gore-Tex membrane and a Cupron antimicrobial sockliner. It
will retail for $200 and is slated
to deliver on Dec. 1.
2
BOGS
As an experiment, the brand’s
designers created Snowpocalypse, a waterproof men’s boot
that is equipped to handle
temperatures up to minus 1,129
degrees Fahrenheit. The shoe
concept, which will retail in
INSIDER
3
KEEN
Keen’s factory in Portland, Ore.,
is getting busier. After seeing
some success with a U.S.-made
hiking boot, Keen boosted production to add three new fall
hikers: the heritage-style Liberty Ridge, the lightweight and
performance-ready Logan and
the extra-warm Durand Polar
(above). The men’s and women’s
Polar boots, priced at $200,
have 400 grams of insulation
that can weather temperatures
as low as minus 40 degrees
Fahrenheit. The boots also
feature a polyurethane midsole
and a dual-compound rubber
outsole with snow and ice grip.
Keen executives noted that for
Europe, the collection will be
produced locally, in Romania.
4
SALOMON
It’s all about winning the downhill for Salomon. The Ogden,
Utah-based brand developed a
new entry for its S-Lab collec-
5
AHNU
After dabbling in yoga-specific
footwear for the past couple
of years, Ahnu unveiled a
four-piece YogaSport collection designed specifically for
hybrid workouts. “We started
to see things like cardio barre
and TRX, where you take yoga
and incorporate into the fitness
realm,” said Jacqueline Van
Dine, VP and co-founder of the
brand. “We went into classes
to see what these women were
wearing, and they were confused. So we designed product
with that in mind.” The shoes
emphasize forefoot flexibility (a
key asset, for instance, in plank
position) and are lightweight
with a carbon-rubber tread
for extra grip. A Velcro-strap
slipper, designed in collaboration with Blake Brody, debuts
in May. The remaining styles
— two laceups and a split-toe
slip-on — deliver in June.
Keen’s Portland, Ore., factory now employs more than 60 people.
PHOTOS: UNDER ARMOUR AND KEEN: COURTESY OF BRANDS; ALL OTHERS: JENNIE BELL
1
tion, crafted especially for its
pro trail runners. The S-Lab
Wings, retailing for $180, have
lower lugs on the front tread to
shave minutes off a downhill
run, while multi-directional
lugs on the back tread offer a
secure grip. The men’s shoe,
weighing in at under 10 ounces,
features lightweight TPU welded over the upper for stability
and a TPU film in the midsole
to protect from small rocks and
debris. A version is also available for wet conditions.
800.367.4676
The Warwick Hotel, Second Floor, Kent Room
FFANY, February 3-5
Circle
Back
1960s-style boots
make a modish
return in time
for fall ’15, from
the runways to
leggy ingenues.
Sculpted block
heels, high-shine
finishes and
go-go cuts
give the trend
au courant kick.
ADEAM ankle-strap boots
with wooden block heel
and sole. MOSCHINO
coat, LISA PERRY dress,
CARA CRONINGER
earrings.
Photographed by
Brian Klutch
Fashion Director:
Mosha Lundström Halbert
Assistant Editor:
Christian Allaire
19
HERMÈS two-tone equestrian
boots. SPORTSMAX dress,
ACNE STUDIOS sweater,
CARA CRONINGER bangle.
TAMARA MELLON
Erotic Dream stretch
suede boots. LISA PERRY
dress, CARA CRONINGER
bangle.
21
From left: CASADEI
suede ankle boot,
NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD
patent block-heel boot,
PIERRE HARDY zippered
moto boot.
LAURENCE DACADE
thigh-high boots with
patent panelling. SAINT
LAURENT BY HEDI
SLIMANE jacket, shirt
and shorts.
MODEL: CHARLOTTE/TRUMP; HAIR: RUDY MARTINS/L’ATELIER NYC USING ORIBE; BEAUTY: ELISA FLOWERS/BERNSTEIN & ANDRIULLI; PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: DUSTIN SONNEBORN; BOOKINGS EDITOR: TRICIA VAN.GESSEL.
LOUIS VUITTON denim
patchwork bootie with
geometric leather heel,
dress and denim-andleather bag.
BEHIND THE SHOOT
The fashion team on FN’s all-about-mod moment.
Valentino
Model Charlotte
Burgon in Louis
Vuitton
The Valentino haute couture capsule collection, starring patent-leather blockheel boots, was shown in New York just as FN’s fashion team was reviewing
the pre-fall ’15 footwear collections. “Something mod was definitely in the
water. Plus, these styles are walkable and wearable,” said FN Fashion Director
Mosha Lundström Halbert, noting Casadei and Nicholas Kirkwood as other
early standouts. Assistant Editor Christian Allaire was all about the denim
boots from Louis Vuitton. “When the total look arrived in our fashion closet, it
was game over for me,” he said. “They were the perfect luxe take on trend.”
“The shapes were
made with MDF,
chosen because of
its smooth surface
area. We carefully
cut pieces in specific
shapes and painted
them. To be honest,
I wasn’t sure about
the green hue Mosha
chose, but it wound
up complementing
the pink perfectly —
totally mod! ”
Photographer Brian Klutch on creating the geometric set for Circle Back.
Top
1
0
1
IMPRESSIVE FEETS
FROM THE SPRING ’15
HAUTE COUTURE
COLLECTIONS
PARIS
26
Christian Dior channeled
its naughty side with leg-scaling
cage-heel boots in fetishistic latexlook patent leather.
3
2
Valentino extended
its signature ornate
embroidery from bolero
to bootie, with striking
burlap block-heel styles
that encapsulated the
collection.
Schiaparelli had
the week’s best flat footwear statement: a sweet
crisscross d’Orsay style
with ankle-wrapping.
9
Elie Saab
tempered feathered
frocks with lowheeled doublestrap sandals in
balletic satin.
4
Chanel showed flats for the
third couture season running.
This time, it was stark mid-calf
elasticized boots to root the
collection’s OTT whimsy IRL.
7
Atelier Versace
footwear got the
siren treatment with
baroque beaded overthe-knee boots.
5
10
Giambattista
Valli juxtaposed
his usual extreme
frou-frou with
spiked huarachestyle woven heels.
8
6
Viktor & Rolf
ventured to tropical
climates for an
irreverent take on
printed beachy
flip-flops.
Alexandre
Vauthier
Jean Paul
Gaultier went
for 360-degree
racy lacing
inspired by the
corsets of French
coquettes.
again collaborated with Christian
Louboutin on
aggressively sexy
scrunched stiletto
boots, shown in
suede and patent.
27
Who is more
colorful than
Mr. Blahnik?
The legendary
designer opens up
about his longawaited foray into
men’s, trends
he wishes would
go away and
an intense new
book project.
By Katie Abel
Photographed by
Piers Calvert
L
ast month, on the
same day Manolo
Blahnik celebrated
John Galliano’s muchanticipated return to
fashion at the Maison
Margiela couture show,
the footwear veteran marked a new
beginning as well. After 42 years in
business, Blahnik debuted his first full
men’s offering in London.
Like the shoe designer himself, the
presentation was truly original. It
was held in one of Blahnik’s favorite
buildings in the British capital: Sir
John Soane’s Museum, the elegant,
quirky former home of the neoclassical
architect. The candlelit space, sprinkled
with historic artifacts, provided a
fitting backdrop for Blahnik’s diverse,
unexpected collection. The line
showcased the controversial square
toe and included lace-up oxfords, suede
sandals, bowed loafers and alpine boots.
An
Artist’s
Eye
29
Blahnik in 1975
“I love my new square last. Maybe I’m
going against the trend, but I’ve always
done that. Maybe the shoes won’t be
commercial, but I couldn’t care less. I’m
going to do what I’m going to do. We have
the best people in Italy making them.
They’re beautiful — just marvelous,”
Blahnik proclaimed, his voice rising
with every syllable.
Unabashedly enthusiastic, the
designer continues to obsess over each
detail. “Every shoe has to be perfect,
and I’m very stern about the way I want
things to be. I want to fight for good
quality all the time. That’s why I am so
happy about the men’s shoes. They’re the
best you can get. I can guarantee that,”
he said with conviction.
A
t 72, Blahnik still designs every one
of his shoes himself. He has never
employed an assistant and doesn’t
have a team — extremely rare today.
“At most companies, there are
so many levels and stages to the
process,” added Kristina Blahnik, the
designer’s niece and managing director of Manolo
Blahnik International. “We don’t have that. There’s
no design by committee. If Manolo were hindered
by rules, it would paralyze him.”
As he’s gotten older, the designer said he’s realized how lucky he is to be completely independent
in an era when many fashion brands are controlled by conglomerates. “I couldn’t live without
my total freedom. It’s the only luxury I have. I
choose what I want to do, and this is the one thing
I’m really happy about. I never had the temptation
to sell out because I don’t care about money very
much,” he said.
That singular vision is exactly what appeals to
the luxury retailers who have helped build Blahnik
Manolo Muses: Advantages of Aging, Unexpected Inspirations
MALE FASHION ICONS
“There’s an incredible
collection of old boys I love,
but they’re all dead. I liked
the obvious ones, like Cary
Grant. He was divine. I loved
Gary Cooper because he was
in the adventure movies and
so chic. Nowadays, I’m not
mad about the looks. Many
men are badly dressed: It’s
a collection of blue jeans
and cowboy hats and big fat
tummies or over-exercised
bodies.”
30
GETTING OLDER
HIS DREAM DINNERPARTY GUESTS
“I’m in my early 70s now –
“Jessica Lange would be at
which I guess is a dangerous
the table of honor. I would
age – but I’m very happy.
have [photographer]
In one year, I’ve
Eric Boman, [artist]
changed a
Peter Schlesinger
lot. What’s
and a mix of
happened
actors
to me is
and writers.
mental, not
I love writphysical. I’ve
ers more than
never been
anyone else.”
diplomatic, but
Jessica Lange
now I am completely
blunt. What I say is the truth,
and I feel better about it.”
GETTING INSPIRED
“I don’t work with a mood
board. I think about fabulous
faces, like Joan Crawford’s.
Unretouched, she
was the most
exquisite girl
in America in
the 1920s. [I
love pictures]
taken in the
days before
Photoshop
and
Joan Crawford
digital retouching. “
THE PROLIFERATION OF
DESIGNER LABELS
“Every bloody designer is
doing shoes, and so many
of them are hideous.
They don’t know
how to make a
shoe. They’re
impossible to
wear, they’re
badly made and
they cost a lot of
money.”
Three Things You Didn’t Know About Manolo Blahnik:
ONE OF HIS FAVORITE
PHOTOGRAPHS
“I remember sitting for
Mr. [Irving] Penn and how
kind he was. In 2002, he
was photographing me for
The New Yorker. He said,
‘Call the office and get me
a heel.’ So he photographed
me holding a heel, and it was
divine. I remember that like
it was yesterday. It doesn’t
seem that long ago.”
1. His favorite food in the world is the Spanish Cocido Madrileño 2. He
Inside the men’s presentation at Sir John Soane’s Museum
into a world-famous label. “Manolo lives by a
motto that many designers are afraid to adopt: If
you do not like what I am making, then don’t buy
my product,” said Marigay McKee, president of
Saks Fifth Avenue. “In an industry that’s dominated by [trends], Manolo’s unwavering faith in
himself and his loyal customers is remarkable and,
quite frankly, unheard of in this day and age.”
Saks is teaming up with the designer and his
U.S. business partner, George Malkemus, to open
a shop-in-shop at the retailer’s New York flagship later this year, a move that will dramatically
expand Blahnik’s Big Apple presence.
McKee also helped lure the designer to London
department-store mecca Harrods during her stint
there. In the three years since his label’s Harrods
debut, Blahnik has become one of the retailer’s
largest brands. “It’s such a breath of fresh air to
work with a company that is 100 percent about
creativity,” said Neil Clifford, CEO of Kurt Geiger,
Blahnik’s partner at Harrods. “When we meet
Manolo and Kristina, [we discuss] the product, the
image, the design. It’s not about how much we’re
going to buy, what the margin is, what repeat business there is. There are never difficult conversations involving numbers.”
Last fall, when the department store unveiled
its buzzed-about Shoe Heaven space, Blahnik
received prime real estate. His tucked-away shop
is already a favorite among Shoe Heaven’s wellheeled customers, who visit from all over the
world. (Blahnik said he was amazed by how many
Chinese shoppers came out to meet him at a recent store appearance.)
“Harrods is doing an incredible business, and
I’m quite happy because they’re selling the things
I like,” he said. “It’s not about pumps and more
pumps and the Hangisi pump and blah blah blah,”
laughed the designer, who wishes more consumers
would gravitate toward his newest styles instead of
buying tried-and-true classics over and over again.
Blahnik’s penchant for novelty is one reason
the designer decided to expand his men’s offering.
“I had always done men’s shoes, but just a few,
for myself and my friends. All the buyers were
telling me we needed them, so I said, ‘Why not?’
Harrods already had a few styles, and they all sold
out,” he added.
The fashon veteran has certainly taken notice
of the rapidly evolving men’s fashion market. But
the designer — who is always elegantly dressed in
a suit from Savile Row tailor Anderson & Sheppard, along with his signature bow tie — bemoans
many of the trends endorsed by today’s young men
is obsessed with cleanliness and takes three showers a day 3. His first summer job was an internship at the United Nations in Geneva. He hated it — he was “bored to tears.”
31
B
The designer at work in his
London headquarters
(and women). “I’m not mad about the looks. Sometimes you see these men in London with beautiful suits, but then they have the buttons on their
shirts open. It’s horrible,” he said. “I went out the
other night, and people were wearing jeans — to a
white-tie event.”
Another fashion statement the designer
loathes: tattoos. “In my time, criminals and bad
people had tattoos,” Blahnik explained.
On the other hand, the designer — who draws
inspiration from “memorable faces” — does make
one notable exception. “The only person I love
with a tattoo is Rihanna. I was sitting at a table
with her [at the British Fashion Awards] and was
so impressed. She looks like Grace Kelly. She’s just
so beautiful, so polite — she’s not the person you
see in interviews.”
He might be even more enthralled with Jes-
sica Lange and her work in “American Horror
Story.” “She’s one of the monumental actresses in
America,” he said. “I don’t think there’s another
woman who is so good at playing evil.”
It’s no secret that Blahnik, an avid reader and
film buff who has encyclopedic knowledge of old
Hollywood flicks, often stays up most of the night
tucking into a favorite book or film.
While he misses the feeling of walking into the
now-closed HMV flagship in London to buy DVDs,
he’s learned to embrace Netflix and YouTube. “I’m
getting so much better on my iPad. The only thing
I don’t like is email. I feel obliged to answer people
back,” he said.
Blahnik has also been using his iPad to conduct
research for his forthcoming book, tentatively
titled “Fleeting Gestures and Obsessions,” set to
be released this fall. The tome features the people
eyond his personal passion projects, Blahnik is forging ahead with
another big move this spring: the
relocation of his headquarters from
modest digs in London’s Chelsea
to a larger Georgian townhouse in
Marylebone, “where everyone has
room to be comfortable.”
“I keep going, going, going — it’s adrenaline, I
suppose,” Blahnik said. “It’s a miracle I can even
sleep, and I don’t sleep very well. Last night, I was
physically exhausted, so I started to read Henry
James to get away from everything. I’m so old
fashioned. But it’s so twisted, and I love it!”
His go-to books provide a temporary escape
from reality, but Blahnik says he is getting more
anxious about global unrest — “the new disorder,”
as he calls it. “It’s not a fantastic time, but even if
you’re desperate, seeing all of these horrific things,
you have to create,” he said. “I have hope for the
future, even if other people don’t.”
While he can’t predict what’s ahead, Blahnik is
sure of one thing: He has no desire to slow down.
“I can’t just sit back [and relax]. It’s not my life. It’s
not who I am.”
Dissecting Blahnik’s Magic
32
TRACY MARGOLIES
JONATHAN JOSELOVE
SCOTT MEDEN
GEORGE MALKEMUS
MARIGAY MCKEE
SVP, GMM of beauty, contemporary
5F, footwear and handbags
Bergdorf Goodman
SVP, GMM of ladies’ shoes,
handbags and accessories
Neiman Marcus Stores and Online
EVP and GMM of shoes
Nordstrom
President
Manolo Blahnik USA
President
Saks Fifth Avenue
“Manolo does an incredible job of
representing emotional fashion
while maintaining an excellent,
consistent fit. Customers want
multiples of the same shoe in different variations. His creativity is a real
standout, yet is able to make something timeless that [customers] can
have in their closets for years.”
“We have been business partners
with Manolo Blahnik for many years,
a relationship we have long valued as
one of our closest. The business has
continued to thrive for one simple
reason — outstanding product.
Mr. Blahnik continues to delight and
amaze us, and more importantly, he
amazes and delights our customers.”
“One of the wonderful things about
Manolo Blahnik is the incredible
range of options that are available for
detailing a shoe. Manolo has always
remained true to himself, designing
beautiful single-soled shoes that are
chic and timeless. It’s not unusual
to see a daughter, mother and grandmother all wanting the same shoe.”
“Manolo is super-spontaneous —
in his life and his work. He doesn’t
have a rigid system, and he’s a
designer who is still a true designer.
He can’t stand it when people aren’t
enthusiastic. Enthusiasm can be
positive or negative, but the most
important thing is that you have
some response.”
“Manolo Blahnik has perfected the
dichotomy of lush simplicity and
exaggerated polish. No matter the
trend or millennial movement, he
is loyal to his obsession of artisanal
perfection and aversion to massproduced [products]. You can also
walk or run in his heels. Not all
designers can say that.”
PHOTOS: ALL SHOES: COURTESY OF BLAHNIK; ARCHIVAL IMAGE: TIM JENKINS; LANGE, CRAWFORD: GETTY IMAGES; THIS PAGE: PORTRAIT: PIERS CALVERT: MARGOLIES: STEVE EICHNER; JOSELOVE: GETTY IMAGES; ALL OTHERS: FAIRCHILD ARCHIVES
who have inspired him most during his 40-year career, from author Gore Vidal to film director Pedro
Almodóvar to “all the women I adore in my life.”
“It’s been an incredible exercise in discipline,”
Blahnik admitted. “Every day, there’s something
new that comes up, and I’ve been waiting on some
of the transcripts and photos for weeks. But it’s
been a wonderful experience. I’m ready for another one, but not now.”
The prolific designer also is hard at work on
a film about his life and career, scheduled to be
released by mid-2016. Then, he’ll turn his attention to a new exhibit — a retrospective that will be
shown at several museums across the world.
PHOTOS: SHOE: COURTESY OF PIERRE HARDY; WRESTLER: GETTY IMAGES
MARKETPLACE
Mucha Lucha
SHOE
OF THE
WEEK
Pierre Hardy pinned down an exciting men’s design for fall. “I was looking for something
punchy and dynamic, and the image of Mexican wrestlers and their masks came to
mind,” he said. “Even a normcore look would be woken up by these sneakers.”
Hardy recommends making the shoe the focus of the outfit, versus coordinating it with other bold graphics. “Match at your own risk,” he warned.
35
INSPIRATION POINT
Edgardo
Osorio
The designer’s Aquazzura line will
rock hard in fall ’15. By Kristen Henning
elcome to the Hotel California. For fall, Edgardo
Osorio turned to the spirit of 1970s Los Angeles for
his Aquazzura line. “A vintage guitar strap found in
Venice Beach set the mood for the collection,” said the
designer. For the look, think platforms (a first for the
brand) with suede and lacing around the ankle — plus flat, mid- and
high-heeled boots and sandals with chunky heels. Each style still has
the Aquazzura touch, with “fringe, leather and stud applications, and
feather details in boots,” Osorio said. “We mixed in other luxurious
materials, like mink, feathers, lace and satin for evening styles.” The
’70s spark led to a larger variety, too. “This collection is much broader
in categories and styles,” he added. “As our brand grows, we want to
make sure we offer the Aquazzura woman something to wear for any
time of the day.”
Joni Mitchell
in 1970
W
36
MARKETPLACE
WOMEN’S
A vintage shot of
The Eagles
The Florence, Italy-based designer has drawn celebrity fans, including Olivia Palermo.
PHOTOS: OSORIO: GEORGE CHINSEE; SKETCHES: COURTESY OF AQUAZZURA; JOSHUA TREE: COURTESY OF CALIFORNIA TRAVEL & TOURISM COMMISSION; EAGLES: COURTESY OF BAND; ALL OTHERS: GETTY IMAGES
“Rock bands like The
Eagles and singers like Joni
Mitchell inspired the boho
boots and shoes, but [they’re]
interpreted in a modern, sexy
and sophisticated way”
With a new brand identity and a more relaxed
aesthetic, the label is poised for growth.
By Kristen Henning
Sandra Canselier inside the
label’s Nolita boutique
oclico, launched in
2000 by fourth-generation shoemaker Sandra
Canselier, is undergoing a transformation.
The line rebranded this spring
with more casual styles, such as sandals with white EVA bottoms, and a
range of new lasts. It also unveiled
a logo with a cleaned-up look for a
more current take on the company’s
signature poppy-flower leaves.
C
38
MARKETPLACE
“We updated the brand identity
to embody a femininity, but also a
toughness,” said Canselier.
For fall ’15, “black is everything,”
said the designer, who noted that
the collection will explore contrasts
and reflections of the dark hue, plus
sculptural silhouettes.
So far, the refresh is opening
more retail doors, further propelling
the company beyond its humble beginnings. Canselier started her label
WOMEN’S
ily with a fashion partner.
“I like the idea of working with
other industries. I could see us working with a graphic designer, a painter
or a jewelry maker,” she said, noting
that it’s too soon to announce fall ’15
collaborations. “It needs to be fun
and click.”
Beyond that, Canselier said, she
has difficulty defining the future of
her brand. “I want our niche [collection] to get bigger and bigger,” she
noted. “But that’s the question I can
never answer — wherever the wind
takes me.”
Green Leanings
One point of pride for Coclico is its
use of eco-friendly materials. In fact,
in 2013, the label was recognized at
The Global Awards for Sustainable
Fashion (the Source Awards) for its
eco standards.
Some credit goes to the brand’s
factory in Mallorca, Spain, where the
line has been produced from the beginning. “The factory owner has the same
ethics and lives a very sustainable type
of life,” said Sandra Canselier, adding
that her collection uses a lot of wood
and cork, plus non-chrome linings and
other recycled materials.
Sustainable production can be
expensive, however, making pricing
tricky. (The line retails from about $295
to $600.)
“What’s challenging is keeping the
price of the brand where it needs to be,”
Canselier said. “We can’t ever be 100
percent green. But every step of the
way, we look at the provider and ask
ourselves, ‘What is the most sustainable we can get?’”
Canselier’s father, grandfather and great-grandfather all designed artisan shoes.
PHOTOS: CANSELIER: THOMAS IANNACCONE; FACTORY: COURTESY OF COCLICO
Coclico’s
Conversion
15 years ago in her studio apartment,
she said, making just 2,000 pairs of
shoes per season and knocking on
retailer doors herself.
Anthropologie was the first
to sign on, and the brand is now
stocked by major department stores,
including Neiman Marcus, Saks.com,
Bergdorfgoodman.com, Shopbop.com
and Nordstrom.com.
“In the last three years, we’ve
definitely grown with the majors.
Everything has been very organic,”
said Canselier. “With department
stores, it’s another level of access [to
consumers]. I like to cover all aspects
of distribution.”
To fuel online sales, the brand relaunched an e-commerce site last fall
and will continue to push growth in
that channel with the help of social
media and bloggers. “It’s the best
way to tell my story,” said Canselier.
Another rewarding channel has
been independent retail. Coclico sells
in roughly 50 accounts across the
U.S. and is cultivating loyalty among
its retail partners.
Renee Mayronne, co-owner of
Gito in Millburn, N.J., has been
working with Coclico for about three
years.
“It’s one of my top-selling lines,”
she said. “[Consumers] like the comfort and casual wear.… [Coclico’s]
casual boot still has fashion edge and
[retails] for a good price.”
Vancouver, B.C.-based Umeboshi
Shoes, another top account, has
worked with Coclico since 2005.
Owner Stephanie Gorrell said she
appreciates the label’s understated
designs, coupled with its use of fine
detail and “beautiful” vegetabletanned leathers. Moreover, she said,
“The comfort, fit and quality of
Coclico is exquisite.”
The company operates a branded
shop in New York’s Nolita neighborhood, and Canselier is eyeing a
location in California, preferably San
Francisco. “I always have a vague
game plan of what I want our growth
to be, and I’d love to have that faceto-face time with more consumers,”
she said. “I toy with the idea of a
pop-up as well.”
The designer has also built recognition through collaborations, such
as her spring ’15 partnership with
Haley Ann Robinson, an artist in
Portland, Ore., whose pops of color
are featured on a variety of shoes in
the collection.
Looking ahead, Canselier said
another collaboration is a possibility
in the near future, but not necessar-
BUZZ
Women’s Launches
Storm Warning
The Original Muck Boot Co., based
in Smithfield, R.I., is moving into
the women’s waterproof-leather
category for fall ’15 with two looks:
the Western, a cowboy boot, and the
Verona, a biker-inspired style (below).
Both feature neoprene linings for
insulation and rubber outsoles for
traction. Retailing for $250 for
the Western boot and $220 for the
Verona, the new styles are set to
deliver in August to
independent stores.
Original Muck
Boot Co.
Double-Dipping
Trend-setting athletic retailer Sportie
LA and Dr. Scholl’s Original Exercise
Sandal have put their design heads
together for a series of limitededition looks based on the brand’s
iconic slide. The five co-branded
styles, priced at $88, hit the Sportie
LA stores and Sportiela.com on
Feb. 1 and will be available there for
45 days. After that, the line will also
be sold on Drschollsshoes.com.
and Vinoodh Matadin shot the
campaign for the first time since
2004. The print ads will break in the
March issues of fashion magazines
such as British Vogue, Elle and
Harper’s Bazaar. Also, a short film of
Jagger is now on Mulberry’s website.
Georgia May Jagger
for Mulberry
There are two
guarantees in life:
Winter will be
wet and your
feet won’t.
Dr. Scholl’s x
Sportie LA
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BRANDS
State of Georgia
Mulberry’s spring ’15 ad campaign
debuted model Georgia May Jagger
as the face of the brand. Jagger
posed with Mulberry accessories
on an English country homeinspired set equipped with a silver
tea set and gold-trimmed furniture.
Photographers Inez van Lamsweerde
Guaranteed waterproof and designed in Canada,
Cougar has been helping three generations keep warm,
dry and stylish when winter arrives. Embrace the colder
seasons with the brand new “Tasty” and “Torque”
boots from Cougar’s 2015 Fall/ Winter collection.
Visit us at FFANY, New York City, NY,
Feb 3-5 Room 1536 & 1537
Tru Show, San Francisco, CA, Feb 8-9
FN PLATFORM, Las Vegas, NV, Feb 17-19 Booth 83052
Northeast Shoe Expo, Manchester, NH, Feb 22-24
For more details, call 1-888-COUGAR-1 or visit us at cougarboots.com
MY FAVORITE TV SHOW:
BEST CITY FOR
SHOPPING:
“Seoul, South Korea.
They have everything,
from high end to low
end, young designers
and knock-off shops. It’s
so easy to get lost.”
MY FAVORITE
INSTAGRAM HANDLES:
GOOD TASTE
Corey Lynn
Calter
“What—My—Daughter—
Wore. It’s all drawings,
and I love that. And I’m
always happy when I
see the photographs of
Kimberly Genevieve
(above). Her bright
colors make you smile.”
The Seychelles collaborator and ready-towear designer on her latest obsessions.
By Kristen Henning
Seychelles has a partner in crime. Corey Lynn Calter, designer and
blogger, has been collaborating with the brand since spring ’13, and
is back for fall with three new Seychelles styles. “This season, there
is still a place for booties, but with more of a texture mix. Mixing
shiny and matte, textured leathers with suede,” said the ready-to-wear
designer, whose namesake line launched in 2000 and is carried in
independent boutiques, as well as major retailers Anthropologie and
Mod Cloth. “Soft materials come together in a gathered way. There is
definitely a sophisticated 1990s feel to them.” Calter cited artwork in
New York’s Soho neighborhood as her inspiration. “These art gallery
ladies had giant necklaces in [bold] prints and colors, and Keith
Haring was everywhere,” she said. “I’m very influenced by the ’90s in
New York — not grungy, but in a post-modern way. The subway art
and the blur of the subway train.” Still, her style advice is timeless:
“Experiment, experiment, experiment,” said Calter. And that’s exactly
what she’s doing. Here, the Los Angeles-based designer shares her
Seoul shopping obsession and go-to Instagram feeds.
ARTISTS ON
REPEAT:
“Franz Ferdinand
I always like. I
love Hozier (at
right). And Ray
LaMontagne — I
always go back
to him.”
40
MARKETPLACE
JUNIORS’
FOOTWEAR TREND
I WISH WOULD GO AWAY:
“Shoes that girls carry
because they can’t
walk in them. How
many girls have you seen
in Las Vegas carrying
[their footwear]?
I would rather see them
in flip-flops.”
Calter’s Seychelles collaboration made its world debut at New York Fashion Week in February 2012.
PHOTOS: CALTER: COURTESY OF DESIGNER; “FRIDAY NIGHT LIGHTS”: COURTESY OF UNIVERSAL STUDIOS; SEOUL, HOZIER: GETTY IMAGES; GENEVIEVE: COURTESY OF INSTAGRAM; SHOE: COURTESY OF CI CI HOT
“‘Friday Night Lights.’ I
just power-watched it
for three months — I
couldn’t stop. I was
dreaming about it.
The characters were
awesome, and I loved the
acting. So much heart.”
In loving memory of
a fashion legend
VINCE CAMUTO
From our family to yours,
you will be missed
CLOSET CASE
LEE
ABBAMONTE
MOST VERSATILE PAIR:
“Merrell hiking shoes. I can
use them for everyday sneakers or climbing shoes. Plus,
I have worn them on TV with
jeans since they [simply] look
like dark-colored shoes on
camera.”
The 36-year-old travel blogger
has broken records with his
globetrotting. Here’s the
footwear he used to do it.
By Barbara Schneider-Levy
Nolan Walsh and
Connor Wilson
Crowd Pleasers
Direct-to-consumer men’s brand Thursday Boot Co. has
beaten the odds with its recent launch.
By Barbara Schneider-Levy
IKE MANY OF TODAY’S upstarts,
business partners Nolan Walsh
and Connor Wilson turned
to Kickstarter to help launch
their men’s footwear business,
Thursday Boot Co. In one month’s time, the
New York-based, direct-to-consumer brand
raised more than $276,000 and became
Kickstarter’s most successful footwear debut.
Since the label’s website, Thursdayboots
.com, went live on Nov. 10, it has sold more
than 2,000 pairs, shipped to 20 countries.
“We had amazing traction on social media
and Kickstarter and are now backlogged,”
said Walsh. “We haven’t had any public relations [efforts] or huge press. It’s grown by
word of mouth, Instagram and Facebook.”
Walsh, 26, whose background is in investment banking and real estate, and Wilson,
29, a former equity analyst and portfolio
manager, are both graduates of Columbia
Business School. “We’re really passionate
about [footwear] and feel we can fill a gap
in the market,” said Walsh, noting that the
two had themselves in mind when designing
the line. “We saw a need for clean, versatile,
modern classics at an affordable price.”
L
42
MARKETPLACE
MEN’S
With no experience in the industry, they
got a crash course in shoemaking from artisans in the Mexican factory that’s producing
the collection. For its debut, the line consists
of three items: a cap-toe, a moc-toe and a
plain-toe boot. All are done in Chromexcel
leather and feature a cork midsole and glove
linings for comfort.
The boots retail for $199, a price point
the partners believe is accessible to a wide
audience. “Boots of this quality would cost
$400,” said Walsh, adding that the direct-toconsumer approach helped reduce prices.
The entrepreneurs felt that men would
gravitate to their classic look. “We wanted
a boot that married the best of a fashion
boot with the functionality of a work boot —
something you could beat up,” said Wilson.
That need for versatility inspired the
name of the company. “Thursday is a transitional day of the week, with a little bit of
work and a little bit of play,” said Walsh.
Now, with the brand up and running, the
two are open to strategic investors. However, Wilson said, “We’re not just looking for
money, but for those who understand the
business.”
BRANDS: Havaianas, Nike,
Merrell, Lowa, Cole Haan,
Aldo, To Boot New York. “The
Nike running shoes, which
cost $60, are my everyday
shoe.”
MOST EXOTIC PLACE MY SHOES
HAVE TAKEN ME: “My Lowa
boots have been all over
Antarctica and to the South
Pole. They took some serious
pounding during my hiking
around the mountains and ice
of the Southern Continent,
but they never wavered, got
wet or slipped one time.”
MOST COMFORTABLE ALLAROUND PAIR: “My brown
Havaianas flip-flops. I bought
them at a little store in Rio de
Janeiro during Carnival when
my old flip-flops broke. I had
never heard of them before,
but there was a store
nearby, so I strolled
in and grabbed a
pair for $5. I have
gotten my money’s
worth. I’ve also
used them hiking
up mountains and
oftentimes worn
Havaianas
them around a city
I’m in.”
KEY TRAVEL REQUIREMENTS:
“Comfort and dual-purpose
shoes. That’s why I love
sneakers and flip-flops. They
serve you in multiple ways,
but each is comfortable.”
PAIRS I’LL PACK:
“It depends on
what type of trip
I’m taking. If it’s
personal, I’ll take
only sneakers
and flip-flops. I
substitute sneakers for boots if I’m
doing a lot of hiking
or climbing. If it’s a
business trip where I
have to wear a suit or will be
doing something more formal,
I also bring dress shoes. But
three is the most I travel with.”
“My Lowa boots have been
all over Antarctica”
DRESS-UP FOOTWEAR: “Cole
Haan dress shoes, which I
paid $150 for a few years ago.
They’re for the most formal
engagements. I also recently
bought a pair of Aldos for
$80 that are less formal and
go well with jeans or pants.
My newest addition is from
To Boot New York, which
were $450. They’re easily
the most expensive I’ve ever
bought, but I liked them and
have never owned nice brown
shoes before.”
Lee Abbamonte’s travel adventures include hang-gliding in Brazil.
PHOTOS: WALSH AND WILSON: GEORGE CHINSEE; ABBAMONTE: COURTESY OF LEE ABBAMONTE; ANTARCTICA: GETTY IMAGES; ALL OTHERS: COURTESY OF BRANDS
Merrell hiker
NUMBER OF PAIRS: “I’m a big
believer in keeping things
simple. I’ve recently expanded
my collection to seven, since
I needed some nice shoes for
TV appearances.”
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COME SEE
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WATERPROOF BOOTS
FFANY SHOW - NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 3-5, 2015
VISIT US AT ROOM # 1506, 1510 & 1511
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WHAT HAPPENS IN VEGAS...
IS ALL HERE.
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BURNING QUESTION
Lee Silverman
President & Founder;
JackRabbit Sports, New York
“We’ll see a return to
basics in running and a
big rebound in running
goals, with more people
having 5Ks and halfmarathons on their lists
for this year. Hopefully, that
will translate into a pickup
in running-shoe sales.”
Athletic retailers offer their
predictions.
By Amber Herring
“Insanity”
Todd Kirssin
GMM; DTLR, Baltimore
“What’s growing is the
in-home workout, with videos
like ‘Beach Body,’ ‘Insanity’
and ‘P90X.’ They were a big
gift item for Christmas. It
works because it’s easy —
you can do it in the house,
and you don’t have to go to
the gym. You wake up, head
for the basement, bang it out
in 20 minutes and get on
with your day.”
Edward
Albertian
President & CEO;
City Sports, Boston
“Digital engagement
(tracking, sharing, etc.)
will continue to be at the
forefront in 2015. This is
more important than ever,
and we see it in our sales
of Fitbits and GoPros.
Outdoor activities will also
become increasingly relevant
as many folks look to
reconnect with nature.”
Rich Wills
Owner; FITniche,
Lakeland, Fla.
“The big trend seems to be
that traditional brands and
styles have incorporated
Fitbit
Ted Kushion
Merchandise Manager; Gazelle
Sports, Kalamazoo, Mich.
more minimalist characteristics: lower drops, lighter
weights, etc. Minimalism
isn’t going away — it’s just
being subsumed into the
more traditional products.”
Saucony
46
MARKETPLACE
ATHLETIC
“The biggest thing we see
happening is that more
new runners are willing to
differentiate their training.
It used to be that only hardcore athletes were doing
things like yoga, speed work
or hills. But now we’re also
seeing newcomers looking
for ways to add to their
training.”
Walking is the top fitness activity in the U.S., according to the Sports & Fitness Industry Association.
PHOTOS: SILVERMAN: GEORGE CHINSEE; RUNNER: THOMAS IANNACCONE; YOGA POSE: GETTY IMAGES; ALL OTHERS: COURTESY OF COMPANIES
What’s
the Next
Hot
Fitness
Trend?
An image from the
new Reebok campaign
BUZZ
Athletic
Launches
Zoot Sports
Cali Cool
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BRANDS
Zoot Sports is expanding its collection of running shoes for spring ’15
with four styles set to hit stores in
February and March. The Carlsbad,
Calif.-based firm took inspiration
from the sun-drenched beaches of
Southern California for these latest
sneakers, which include the Del Mar
neutral trainer, $140; the Carlsbad
neutral trainer, $120; the Solana
lightweight trainer, $100 (or $110 for
an all-conditions version); and the
Coronado stability trainer, $130. The
line will be sold in sporting goods
and running specialty stores.
Pacific Standard
Seattle-based Brooks
Running Co. is showing
off its hometown pride.
Last weekend, the athletic brand
unveiled the first item of a new
Northwest Pack in its Brooks
Heritage Collection. The casual
lifestyle sneaker, the Brooks Chariot,
went on sale Jan. 31 for $90 at the
brand’s store in Seattle. It features a
blue-and-forest green color scheme
reminiscent of the Pacific Ocean and
the region’s fir trees. Due to a strong
initial response, Brooks will start
offering the style online in March at
Brooksheritagecollection.com.
Human Interest
Reebok has a new rallying cry.
The Canton, Mass.-based brand
launched a campaign last
week with the tagline
“Be More Human”
and shared
Brooks Running Co.
the message
with millions in a TV spot on NBC
on Sunday, just before the Super
Bowl. The ad, titled “Freak Show,”
celebrates athletes who commit to
staying fit to be better people in their
daily lives. It was directed by A.G.
Rojas in partnership with Venables
Bell & Partners. The campaign also
includes the “Be More Human
Experience,” an interactive
online destination
built for desktop,
tablet and mobile.
On the Green
Designer Mossimo Giannulli
continues to grow his Californiabased golf brand G/Fore. For fall,
the avid golfer (and founder of
the Mossimo fashion label) has reengineered the outsole of his men’s
and women’s golf shoes to feature
a proprietary G/Round Control
technology for better traction.
Other new comfort elements
include a custom
contoured footbed,
extra padding in the
heel collar and a
performancemesh interior.
G/Fore
G/Fore men’
shoes retail for $225 to $350, with
the women’s styles priced at $225 to
$325. Giannulli will also debut his
first capsule collection of men’s golf
apparel for fall.
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Game Day
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Pick
While the big game had high-stakes drama in both the lead-up —
Deflategate, anyone? — and on-field celebrations, several players
enjoyed lighter, though still competitive, moments. Seattle Seahawk
Richard Sherman went head-to-head with New England Patriot Shane
Vereen for Xbox’s Game Before the Game last week. Vereen won.
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