Independent Walking Tour
Paestum & the Cilento
National Park
Walking along the pristine coast of southern Italy
TRIP NOTES 2015
Season:
Level:
February – beginning July + end August - beginning November
2, easy to moderate. Reasonable fitness required, good paths, no technical
difficulties. Several shorter/longer options available each day.
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INTRODUCTION
The region of Campania marks the real starting point of southern Italy. It has been sought after since
Roman times when it was labelled the Campania Felix, or ‘happy land’, hardly a surprise considering the
fact that it includes the great city of Naples, beautiful countryside, Roman ruins, small islands and
stretches of spectacular coast. On the southern side of the Sorrento Peninsula, the Costiera Amalfitana
is probably one of Europe’s most well-known and dramatic stretches of coastline, with its towering
cliffs and picturesque coves.
But Campania’s real secret is located south of Salerno, and immediately south of the wonderful Greek
temples of Paestum. Here the coastline bulges out into an expanse of mountainous landmass known as
the Cilento, now a National Park with World Heritage listing. The Cilento coast is fairly rocky territory,
with the crystalline sea lapping at the shore. There is a wild kind of beauty here; rocky ridges set
between small picturesque inlets and richly scented pinewoods backing onto wide sandy beaches.
Aleppo pines loom over the multicoloured undergrowth of myrtle and cactuses; whilst huge, centuriesold olive trees grow right down to the shore. Inland the Cilento is largely undisturbed by the 21st
century and you enjoy visiting medieval and quaint fishing villages where the traditional way of life is still
evident.
A large part of the tour is along the coast, but you also walk through pristine natural areas and
attractive countryside, with all their cultural treasures like rural chapels, ancient farmhouses, old
watermills and charming medieval villages. During the tour you also visit some of the nicest old fishing
villages, like Santa Maria and San Marco di Castellabate, Marina di Camerota and Acciaroli.
Please note: this is a moderately easy tour which is suitable for those who have some experience of walking and a good
general physical condition. Most of the walks are on good paths, some of them just recently restored by the local authorities.
Parts of the paths are waymarked. Elsewhere you have to follow the route notes provided together with the maps.
Average walking times: from approx 4 to 6 hours each day.
 UPGRADE POSSIBLE. Details and prices on request.
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DAY–TO–DAY PROGRAMME
Day 1
Arrival at Paestum by train and you reach the hotel, located only a few hundred meters from the temples, which
are among the best-preserved in Europe. Leave your luggage at the hotel and take your time to pay a visit to the
archaeological site with its amazing Greek temples and museum. Then walk back to the hotel to enjoy a typical
dinner of local cuisine.
Hotel *** Paestum - HB
Day 2
Today you first make a short train ride to Agropoli, where you start a wonderful walk along the headland of
Punta Tresino, one of the last remaining stretches of pristine coast. You walk through a genuine Mediterranean
landscape, through forests and scrubland, along wonderful beaches and an ancient Roman harbour, with beautiful
views over the sea. You reach the abandoned village of San Giovanni, where some very good white wine is still
produced today (optional tasting possible). Then you descend to the large sandy beach of Castellabate, where it's
worth continuing all the way down the beach until you get to the charming little fishing harbour of Santa Maria.
From here you are picked up – perhaps after a swim and a nice gelato on the beach – and you are brought to your
charming hotel in the fortified village of Rocca Cilento.
Country House in Rocca Cilento - HB
Day 3
Today you make a circular walk from Rocca Cilento. This walk brings you through some of the most interesting
villages in the area and into the so-called ‘Valle dei Mulini’ (the Valley of the Mills). Parts of the walks follow the
old route that used to connect this valley to the Greek cities of Paestum and Velia. First you walk down along the
ridge, with wonderful views to both sides, to the tiny village of Lustra, with its very well preserved medieval
village centre. Then you start to descend into the Valley of the Mills, along a beautiful, recently restored footpath.
Here you’ll notice the remains of at least 17 mills! These are dispersed along the path of the stream which, though
being small, had enough water to supply all these mills before flowing into the Fiumara River, which you’ll cross.
Then you’ll climb up to the charming little hamlet of Valle Cilento, with its beautiful bell towers. The path then
descends into the valley again and goes past the intriguing abandoned village of Massacanina. A short but steep
climb leads you onto the ridge again and, past the monastery of Mercato Cilento, you take a panoramic dirt road,
which will then lead you back to Rocca Cilento, dominated by its fine castle where views over the area are
unrivalled. Take some time to relax on the panoramic terrace before your dinner based on local specialties.
Country House in Rocca Cilento - HB
Day 4
Today you will have a very panoramic walk along the ridge of Mt. Stella, which is still the geographic and cultural
centre of the area, surrounded by a ring of charming medieval villages. A short transfer brings you to Perdifumo,
where you start the walk in the chestnut forest. Once you reach the ridge views range from the island of Capri
and the Amalfi Coast to Capo Palinuro, and sometimes even to the island of Stromboli in Sicily! Parts of the walk
lead through the maquis and bare rocks, other parts through thick chestnut forests. You pass the historical
‘Castelluccio’, an abandoned fortress, probably dating back to the pre-Roman period. Then, still following the
ridge, you reach the chapel of the Virgin of Monte Stella, the spiritual centre of the area, and still a place of
worship today. Then you make a long descent towards the coast and you’ll pass through several beautiful historic
villages. The first one is the tiny medieval Galdo. Follow Celso, Pollica and Cannicchio, all beautifully located on
the hills with nice views over the sea. Then you go down to Acciaroli, a characteristic fishing village with a
beautiful sandy beach, one of Ernest Hemingway’s favourite places. Here you can enjoy a swim before you take
the public bus to the small village of San Marco di Castellabate, where you stay in a comfortable family-run hotel.
Dinner is in the hotel tonight.
Hotel*** in San Marco di Castellabate - HB
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Day 5
You start a circular walk straight from your hotel, passing through typical Mediterranean maquis into the Monte
Licosa area. The headland of Licosa is the point where Cilento reaches furthest out to sea, like a miniature
reproduction of the Monte Stella peninsula. It is full of marine charm, a place where the sea breeze makes the
trees dance, bound to Ulysses’ myth: people say that the Siren Leucosia drowned herself here after failing to
bewitch Ulysses.
This myth and the marvellous landscape make this area a really enchanting place to visit in every season of the
year. In wintertime the clear sky offers you superb views over the Amalfi Coast and Palinuro; in springtime the
flowering brooms cover the hill in a golden-yellow hue, and during the summer you can swim in the very clean
sea. In autumn the sea temperature is still warm and on clear days you can take relaxing walks. You first walk up
through the pine forest until you come to the ridge. Along the ridge there are several watchtowers from which
you can observe the whole area, both the coast and inland. With a bit of luck you might get superb views over the
whole bay of Salerno and even Calabria! Through a pleasant agricultural landscape you descend to the coast at
Ogliastro Marina, and from here you follow a coastal trail to the very tip of the headland. Also here, along the
coast, you can see the ruins of several watchtowers and you will be captivated by the magic of the dancing trees.
Of course there are several opportunities for a swim. From Punta Licosa you then continue along the coast and a
beautiful path brings you back to the nice harbour of San Marco. In the evening you are free to arrange your own
dinner from a wide choice of restaurants in the nearby surroundings.
Hotel*** in San Marco di Castellabate - BB
Day 6
From San Marco a short journey brings you to the Agropoli train station, where you take the train to Pisciotta (1
hour journey). There you are met by your taxi for a short transfer to Palinuro, where you can make a nice
roundwalk on the mythical headland, named after one of the shipmates of Aeneas.
From Palinuro you can then make a beautiful walk, which climbs gently up into the hills above the coast between
Palinuro and Marina di Camerota, with great views over the blue Mediterranean. You’ll walk past the ruins of old
farmsteads and past the chapel of Sant’Iconio, through forest and Mediterranean scrubland, before descending to
the charming village of Marina di Camerota, with its clear South American influence. The last stretch is along the
coast and several nice beaches, so perhaps there is the option for a swim. Tonight you stay in a nice hotel in the
village centre, with a swimming pool, but also just a few hundred metres from the crystal-clear sea. You’ll enjoy
dinner in the nice garden.
Hotel****/B&B in Marina di Camerota – HB
Day 7
Today you’ll enjoy a coastal walk along one of the most unspoilt stretches of coastline in southern Italy, with the
cleanest seawater (Blue Flag). This is the so-called Costa degli Infreschi, named after the Roman harbour of Porto
degli Infreschi, where you can find a freshwater spring in a grotto. There is easy and absolutely superb sightseeing
on the ancient footpath which connects the village of Camerota to the ancient Roman harbour. The walk starts
directly from your hotel in Marina di Camerota. First you walk along its harbour, then, past a series of grottos and
beaches, you reach the first medieval watchtower. Afterwards you have to climb a short stretch and continue
through olive groves and scrubland. Then you descend to the next little inlet, which is reminiscent of the desolate
beaches on a tropical island. Another hour along a beautiful trail brings you to the Porto degli Infreschi. Upon
arrival on the beach here a lunch can be cooked by the local fishermen (optional). Return either on foot or by
boat (optional) to Marina di Camerota. In the evening you are free to arrange your own dinner.
Hotel****/B&B in Marina di Camerota – BB
Day 8
After breakfast you are brought to the train station. From here you return by train to Naples (centre or airport),
Salerno or Rome.
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TOUR DETAILS
ACCOMMODATION & MEALS
Accommodation is mainly on a half-board basis (only your second night in San Marco and your final night in
Marina di Camerota are on a bed and breakfast basis – see inclusions) in very good 3-star hotels and a
comfortable guesthouse (comparable to a 3-star hotel). All rooms have en-suite facilities.
You will have most dinners included; on two evenings you will be free to organise your dinner from the wide
choice of restaurants in the area.
No picnic lunches are included in the tour price, but these can be prepared for you by the accommodation
holders, or materials for picnics can be purchased in the villages where you’ll be staying.
Night 1: The first night is spent in Paestum in a nice 3-star hotel with a big garden & pool, just outside the Greek
town walls, at walking distance from the temples.
Nights 2 & 3: You stay in the small village of Rocca Cilento, in a beautiful and comfortable ‘village hotel’,
recently opened in the pretty medieval setting of an old monastery, at walking distance from the town square and
castle.
Nights 4 & 5: For two nights you stay in the small coastal village town of San Marco, on the southern side of a
large sandy beach and at the edge of the beautiful promontory of Punta Licosa.
Nights 6 & 7: The last two nights are spent in a comfortable ‘B&B’ or a good 3-star hotel in the small coastal
town of Marina di Camerota, gateway to the unspoilt ‘Costa degli Infreschi’.
UPGRADE/CHANGES IN ACCOMMODATION
It is possible to book an upgrade in some of the places en route. Details and prices on request.
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY
Moderately easy (2-3): Mostly easy walks, though some include walking uphill, sometimes on paths with rough
surfaces. On some days extensions or shortcuts are possible.
Fitness: High standard of fitness is not necessary but you should be able to walk for up to 5 hours a day in the
hot sun on dusty or stony tracks
FOOTPATHS & WAYMARKING
Most paths are well maintained, but during the season some paths can get overgrown (we are in continuous contact
with local authorities to keep the paths clean – please help us by providing your feedback on the quality of the paths).
Waymarking: Only a small part of the route is waymarked; elsewhere you have to follow the route descriptions
provided together with the maps. With these you will always be able to find your route. In case you don’t feel
confident a local guide can be provided for some trails.
*** GENIUS LOCI TRAVEL- The real Spirit of Italy ***
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INCLUSIONS :
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1 night Hotel in Paestum*** - HB
2 nights B&B in Rocca Cilento – HB
2 nights in Hotel San Marco di Castellabate*** – 1 HB + 1 BB
2 nights in Hotel in Marina di Camerota*** - 1 HB + 1 BB
Extensive route notes, with description of the route & tourist information
Maps at 1 : 25.000 scale
24/7 assistance
Luggage transport
Private transfers as specified
NOT INCLUDED:
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Departure taxes
Visas
Travel Insurance
Drinks and meals not mentioned in the itinerary
Optional additional tours or activities
Tips
Items of personal nature
ARRIVAL & DEPARTURE
Arrival: The tour starts in PAESTUM; a pick-up service (included) can be arranged from Capaccio train station,
which can easily be reached from Naples, the nearest city with an international airport. The train journey takes
about an hour. Another possibility is to arrange a pick-up service (included) from Roccadaspide, a nice little town
with a beautiful medieval castle, linked to Capaccio train station by a frequent bus service.
Departure: The tour ends in MARINA DI CAMEROTA after breakfast on day 8. A short transfer brings you to
the station (included), where you travel on to your next destination (Naples, Salerno or Rome can all be easily
reached). Several taxi services are available to bring you directly to your next destination.
TOUR VARIATIONS
EXTRA NIGHTS
It is possible to include extra nights in any of the accommodations en route. It is also possible to extend your tour
with a few days in Salerno, Naples, or along the Amalfi Coast. Details and prices on request.
© Genius Loci Travel, 2014. All rights reserved.
Last revised, February 2015
*** GENIUS LOCI TRAVEL- The real Spirit of Italy ***
www.genius-loci.it