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FEBRUARY 2015
As we are right
to achieve our goal of sustainability in 2015, we will
here in the midst of
be bringing you patterns that call for recycled
winter; many of us
materials, unusual fibers as well as a few surprises.
are keeping our
Entwine has a facebook page for sharing your
hooks hot. If you
pattern ideas, tips, and some giveaway’s from time
are like me, you
to time. We would love for you to share your
have several
knowledge and WIP’s with us. Look us up at:
Shari McGraw
WIP’s (work in progress) going at once and more
going on in your head. I challenge you to write
them down and use those brilliant ideas to create
your own patterns. I know many of you don’t
crochet from patterns, but you can write down
what you are doing as you go so you don’t forget.
You never know when someone may ask you to
make another one for them. Also, if you write them
down, you may want to submit them here for us to
publish and possibly make a little money off your
creations. Crochet is not a lucrative business but it
is a fun way to make some cash doing what you
love.
We are in full swing right now writing patterns and
crocheting with different natural fibers. As we work
www.facebook.com/entwinecrochetmatgazine.com
Crochet is an easy hobby to learn and with
just a little practice, you’ll be making items
such as hats, scarves, blankets and more!
Most patterns use the basic stitches so you’re
in luck! Get ready to CROCHET!
How to hold your hook:
There are two common ways to hold your hook a) pencil and b) knife style
Try both holds and see which one you prefer.
These are not the only two, but the most common.
How to chain: (ch)
Each pattern will start with a specific chain amount. Sometimes the chain amount
will be 2 and sometimes it may be 250 (blanket or scarf are examples). It's really
easy--but practice and make it consistent.
*Tip: work chains LOOSELY, and not too tight.
How to Slip Stitch: (sl st)
Slip stitch is a common stitch used within many patterns.
It's commonly used to join a ring (hats are a great example), or used as a stitch
without height.
Push hook through stitch as directed in pattern. Here, instructions would read:
'Ch4, sl st in the first chain to form a ring.'
So, ch4 and then push your hook through the first chain that you created and pull
the yarn back through. You will have 2 stitches on the hook. Take the 2nd stitch you
just created and pull it through the first. Sl st complete.
How to single crochet: (sc)
The single crochet stitch is very basic and very common. It is important that you
learn to make this stitch consistent: not too tight and not too loose. If you make it
tight, your hands will hurt. If you make it too loose, it will look sloppy and it will be
hard to match your gauge and look of a pattern.
Push your hook through the stitch and yarn over. Pull the yarn back through, you
will have 2 loops on the hook now. Yarn over and pull through both loops.
SC complete.
How to half double crochet: (hdc)
Yarn over, push you hook through the stitch, yarn over again. Pull the yarn through
the stitch and you will have 3 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3
loops. Hdc complete.
How to double crochet: (dc)
The double crochet stitch is one of the main stitches. It is a great way to add length
to a project, and is a more 'open' stitch and not tight as compared to a single crochet
stitch.
Yarn over, push your hook through the stitch. Yarn over
and pull back through the stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn
over, pull yarn through the first TWO stitches only and
you will have 2 loops on hook remaining. Now, yarn
over and pull through the last two loops.
DC complete.
This is a stitch:
This is a post:
This is a yarn over:
Want to learn more?
Visit Kristi at www.RAKJpatterns.com where you can learn
more tips and tricks to help you advance your skills.
Abbreviations
Crochet Stitch Abbreviations
alt = alternate
approx = approximately
BP = back post
BLO = back loop only
BPdc = back post double crochet
beg = begin, beginning
CC = contrasting color
ch = chain
cl = cluster
cont = continue
cos=cross over stitch
dbl = double
dtr or dbl tr = double triple
dc = double crochet
dec = decrease
s c2t o g=si ngl e cro chet 2to get her
dir = directions
dk = dark
dnt = do not turn
ea = each
ex sc = extended single crochet
fig = figure 1 (picture of stitch)
FLO = front loop only
FP = front post
FPdc = front post double crochet
fig = figure 1 (picture of stitch)
fo = finish off
foll = following
gm or gr = grams
gr = group
hdc = half double crochet
hk = hook
htr = half triple crochet
in = inch
inc = increase
incl = including
inst = instructions
lp(s) = loop(s)
lt = light
MC = magic circle
med = medium
mm = millimeter
no. = number
oz(s) = ounce
pat st = pattern stitch
pc st = popcorn stitch
prev = previous
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
rnd = round
rs = right side
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
st(s) = stitch(es)
tch = turning chain
tog = together
tr = triple (treble)
x= times (such as repeat 5x)
ws = wrong side
yo = yarn over
Garden Trellis Infinity Scarf/Cowl
By: Sharon Abbott Cowan
[email protected]
This is a fun pattern to make and is so versatile in the
many way in which it can be worn. This scarf is made
with Frabjous Fiber yarn. All of Frabjous Fibers
Wonderland Yarns are given names from Alice in
Wonderland and Through the Looking Glass. That
is part of the reason I think they are such fun.
So
make one for a friend or make this for yourself. It is
sure to please.
Difficulty Level: Advanced Beginner
Photography Credit: Buffi Young
Materials:
o
Frabjous fibers, Wonderland Yarns, “Mad Hatter” (sport weight), Color Morph #30
Salmon to Yellow, 100% Superwash Merino, 430 yards.
o
Hook: G 6 (4.00mm)
Gauge:
1 pattern repeat, slightly stretched = 1 ½” wide by 2” long.
Finished Measurements:
Circumference 80”, Width 9”
Special Abbreviations:
V-st: (dc, ch 2, dc) all worked in indicated st.
Shell: 5 dc worked in indicated st.
Directions:
Ch 43 loosely,
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, *sc, ch 3, sk 3, V-St in next ch, ch 3 skip 3 ch, sc 2,
rep from * 3 more times. R2: ch 1, sc, *ch 4, shell in V-St, ch 4, skip 1 sc, sc
in next sc, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: [ch 4, tr] in first sc, ch 3, k* sc 5 over shell, ch 7; rep from * to last shell, sc 5
over shell, ch 3, 2 tr in last sc.
Row 4: [ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), dc] all in first tr, ch 3, *skip 1 sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 3,
skip 1 sc, V-St in ch-7 sp, ch 3, repeat from * 2 more times, skip 1 sc, sc in next 3
sc, ch 3, [dc, ch1, dc] all worked in top of beg ch-4.
Row 5: ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in ch-1 sp, *ch 4, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc, ch 4, shell in VSt; rep from * across, 2 more times, ch 4, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc, ch 4, 3 dc in beg
ch-4.
Row 6: ch 1, 2 sc, ch 7, *sc 5 over shell, ch 7, rep from * across, sc in last 3 sts.
Row 7: ch 1, sc 2, ch 3, V-St in ch-7 sp, ch 3, *skip 1 sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 3, - V-St in ch7 sp, ch 3; rep from * to lst 3 sc, skip 1 sc, sc in last 2 sc.
Row 8: ch 1, sc, *ch 4, shell in V-St, ch 4, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc; rep from * across.
Repeat rows 1-8 changing color at the end of the row at the end of each skein. Fasten off
and weave in ends. Seam last row to the beginning chain row using mattress stitch. Block
to finished dimensions.
Silver Cat The Ami
[email protected]
http://marysamiland.blogspot.com
http://www.ravelry.com/people/MarysAmiland
I have had a gray cat for several years, he was very moody but he knew exactly how to
make him be beloved nevertheless. Silver looks more cheerful and playful than my old
cat and he is so sweet!
Being crocheted in all its parts makes it suitable for young children.
I have tried my best to write clear instructions to guide you step by step during the
execution of the pattern, however if something is not clear, please don’t hesitate to email me. It would be my pleasure to assist you!
Difficulty Level: Advanced beginners
Skills required are chain, slip stitch, single crochet, increasing, decreasing and colour
change.
Materials:
Yarn: DMC Natura Just Cotton in the following colours and oz/gr:
0.88 oz/ 25gr Gris Argent N09 (coded as C1 in the pattern) - body’s parts
0.14 oz/ 4gr Ambar N04 (coded as C2 in the pattern) - tail, muzzle and pads
Small amount of Noir N11 – nose, mouth and eyes
Small amount of Blue Jeans N06 – eyes
Small amount of White for just two stitches – eyes
Natura Just Cotton is 100% cotton, available in ball of 1.76oz / 50gr ( +/- 155m/170y)
Hook: 11 US - 3.00mm European metric
Other Material: a ribbon
Finished Measurements: 6.3” / 16cm tall, 3.9”/ 10 cm large with arms downwards
Notes for pattern:
This pattern is written in American crochet terminology.
For all the pieces crocheted in the round I have crocheted in a continuous spiral taking
track of where the rounds begin and end by marking the end of a round with a stitch
marker (safety pin). Do not join rounds unless it is written to do otherwise.
The cat’s legs are crocheted in one piece with the body whereas the arms are attached to
the body during its execution.
Pattern:
Abbreviations in the pattern
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dec = single crochet decrease over two stitches
rep = repeat
Head (colour C1)
R1: ch 2, sc 6 in second ch from hook
R2: 2sc in each sc around
R3: * 2sc in next sc, sc 1*, rep from *to*
R4: * 2sc in next sc, sc 2*, rep from *to*
R5: * 2sc in next sc, sc 3*, rep from *to*
R6: * sc 4, 2sc in next sc*, rep from *to*
R7: * sc 5, 2sc in next sc*, rep from *to*
R8: * sc 6, 2sc in next sc*, rep from *to*
R9-11: * sc 1 in next sc*, rep from *to*
R12: * dec 1, sc 10*, rep from *to*
R13: * sc 1 in next sc*, rep from *to*
R14: *dec 1, sc 9*, rep from *to*
R15: *dec 1, sc 8*, rep from *to*
R16: *dec 1, sc 7*, rep from *to*
R17: *dec 1, sc 6*, rep from *to*
(6st)
(12st)
(18st)
(24st)
(30st)
(36st)
(42st)
(48st)
(48st)
(44st)
(44st)
(40st)
(36st)
(32st)
(28st)
Begin stuffing head with fibrefill.
R18: *dec 1, sc 5*, rep from *to*
R19: *dec 1, sc 4*, rep from *to*
R20: *dec 1, sc 3*, rep from *to*
R21: *sc 1 in next sc*, rep from *to
(24st)
(20st)
(16st)
(16st)
Finish stuffing, leave shut open and long end for sewing the head to the body.
Arms (colours C1 and C2)
In each round the four colours are referred to as pad =C2, arm =C1.
Note that the arms are crocheted before the body because they are added during its
execution.
With colour C2
R1: ch 2, sc 6 in second ch from hook
R2: 2sc in each sc around
R3: *2sc in next sc, sc 1 *, rep from *to*
With colour C1
R4-5: *sc 1 in next sc*, rep from *to*
R6: * dec 1, sc 4*, rep from *to*
R7: * dec 1, sc 3 *, rep from *to*
R8-18: *sc 1 in next sc*, rep from *to*
(6st)
(12st)
(18st)
(18st)
(15st)
(12st)
(12st)
Around 10th round stuff the arm with fibrefill and then as you go. Note that I have
stuffed lightly towards the end of the arm (last two-three rounds) so the arm can stay
downwards along the body once attached.
Sew open end together and fasten off with hidden stitches inside the arm.
Tip: When sewing the open end together ensure to centre the change of colours as you will place this
side facing the cat’s body.
Crochet the other arm in the same manner.
Legs (colours C1 and C2)
In each round the two colours are referred to as pad =C2 and leg =C1.
Note that the legs are crocheted before the body because they are added during its
execution.
With colour C2
R1: ch 2, sc 6 in second ch from hook
(6st)
R2: 2sc in each sc around
(12st)
R3: *2sc in next sc, sc 1 *, rep from *to*
(18st)
R4: *2sc in next sc, sc 2*, rep from *to*
(24st)
With colour C1
R5-6: *sc 1 in next sc*, rep from *to*
R7: * dec 1, sc 2 *, rep from *to*
R8: * dec 1, sc 4 *, rep from *to*
(24st)
(18st)
(15st)
R9: * dec 1, sc 3 *, rep from *to*
R10-14: *sc 1 in next sc*, rep from *to*
(12st)
(12st)
Around 11th round begin stuffing the leg with fibrefill and then as you go.
Leave shut open and a tail for sewing the hole that will be created between the two legs
after they are joint to the body.
Crochet the other leg in the same manner and continue following the instruction of the
body using the same thread (i.e. do not cut the yarn!).
Body (colour C1)
Note that during the execution of the first round you will join together the two legs.
Place the two legs close together and pin them so they will stay in place. Put two safety
pins, two stitches away from each other in the central part.
Crochet around the legs skipping the two central stitches. The hole will be sewed
together later.
R1: sc 20
(20st)
Each leg should have 10 sc
Tip: in my project I started crocheting 1 sc in the second leg (the one I did not cut the
yarn of), 10 sc in the first leg and then the remaining 9 sc in the second leg.
R2: * 2sc in next sc, sc 4*, rep from *to*
(24st)
R3: * 2sc in next sc, sc 3*, rep from *to*
(30st)
Close the hole between the two legs using the tail left from the 1st leg.
R4: * sc 4, 2sc in next sc*, rep from *to*
R5: * sc 5, 2sc in next sc*, rep from *to*
R6: * sc 6, 2sc in next sc*, rep from *to*
R7-9: * sc 1 in next sc*, rep from *to*
R10: *dec 1, sc 10*, rep from *to*
R11: * sc 1 in next sc*, rep from *to*
R12: *dec 1, sc 9*, rep from *to*
R13: * sc 1 in next sc*, rep from *to*
(36st)
(42st)
(48st)
(48st)
(44st)
(44st)
(40st)
(40st)
R14: *dec 1, sc 8*, rep from *to*
R15: * sc 1 in next sc*, rep from *to*
R16: *dec 1, sc 7*, rep from *to*
R17: * sc 1 in next sc*, rep from *to*
R18: *dec 1, sc 6*, rep from *to*
R19: * sc 1 in next sc*, rep from *to*
R20: *dec 1, sc 5*, rep from *to*
R21: *dec 1, sc 4*, rep from *to*
(36st)
(36st)
(32st)
(32st)
(28st)
(28st)
(24st)
(20st)
Place the arms onto the body centring them along each side of the body.
Tip: I have folded the body and then pinned the arms so I was sure to place them at the
right distance.
6 sc
Tip: leave 6sc between each am and place the arms along 4sc each.
After positioning the arms I have tacked them to ensure they would not move when
working the round.
Crochet the shut open of the arms together with the body’s stitches.
R22: * sc 1 in next sc*, rep from *to*
(20st)
Begin stuffing body with fibrefill.
R23: *dec 1, sc 3*, rep from *to*
(16st)
Finish stuffing, leave shut open and fasten off with hidden stitches inside the body.
Ears (colour C1)
R1: ch 2, sc 3 in second ch from hook
R2: 2sc in each sc around
R3: * sc 2, 2sc in next sc*, rep from *to*
R4: * sc 3, 2sc in next sc*, rep from *to*
R5: * sc 4, 2sc in next sc*, rep from *to*
R6: * sc 5, 2sc in next sc*, rep from *to*
R7: * sc 6, 2sc in next sc*, rep from *to*
R8: * sc 7, 2sc in next sc*, rep from *to*
(3st)
(6st)
(8st)
(10st)
(12st)
(14st)
(16st)
(18st)
Sew open end together and leave long end for sewing the ear to the head (no need to
stuff).
Crochet the other ear in the same manner.
Tail (colour C2)
R1: ch 2, sc 4 in second ch from hook
R2: * sc 1, 2sc in next sc*, rep from *to*
R3-25: * sc 1 in next sc*, rep from *to*
(4st)
(6st)
(6st)
Lightly stuff with fibrefill as you go.
Sew open end together and leave long end for sewing the tail to the body.
Muzzle (colour C2)
It is made of two identical items that then have been joint together.
This piece is worked in round from 3rd round.
R1: ch 4
(4st)
R2: sc 2 from second ch from hook, 2 sc in last ch, continuing going around the other
side, sc 1, 2sc in the last ch
(7st)
2sc
sc 2
Put a marker in the last stitch as this is going to be the last stitch and from next round
the piece is crocheted in round.
R3: 2sc in next sc, sc 3, 2sc in next sc, sc 2
(9st)
R4: *sc 2, 2sc in next sc*, rep from *to*
(12st)
Sl st 1, end
Fasten off leaving long end for sewing it to the other item.
Crochet the second item in the same manner and leave long end to single crochet
around the two items and to sew the muzzle to the head.
Sew the two items along the two stitches in the middle, it may help to pin them first.
Once the two items are joint single crochet around the border
Eyes (blue and black)
With blue yarn
R1: ch 2, sc 5 in second ch from hook
R2: 2sc in each sc around
(5st)
(10st)
Fasten off and leave long for sewing the eye to the head.
With black yarn put a few straight lines to make the cat’s iris.
Crochet the other eye in the same manner
Assembling Silver Cat
Start working on the face. First thing pin the ears, eyes, and muzzle to the head to gather
a “pre-view” of the face. If you like you can “draw” the nose with some pins so you can
see how everything fits together. This first phase aims to find the right position of each
item, it has not to be perfect. You will adjust the items as you sew them on.
Tip: it may help mark the centre of the head with some pins to ensure things are levelled and placed
symmetrically.
When you are happy as to how all parts fit together start sewing up the muzzle with neat
stitches as shown in the photos below. Lightly stuff the muzzle with fibrefill before
completing sewing it.
Tip: make invisible stitches to make a seamless join.
Next embroider the nose with black yarn. First draw the outline of the nose using
backstitches, then fill the nose in using satin stitches. Add satin stitches until not filled it
in full. Add a few satin stitches to the top. The following photos show each step to take.
With the same yarn embroider the mouth as shown in the following photos.
Now sew the eyes ensuring they are aligned with respect to each other and at the same
distance from the nose. Add a small line with white yarn to bring some light to the eye
between the iris and the pupil.
Note: sew the eye along the edge.
Next find the right position of the ears. I put them two stitches away from the top centre
of the head and along seven rounds length.
Note: check out that both ears are at the same distance from the eyes
When you are happy with the ears’ position sew them up.
Take out three threads from a medium-weight black yarn and add two straight lines as
shown below if you wish to add whiskers.
Now pin the head onto the body ensuring it is centred with respect to the face.
Sew it up with neat stitches and add some fibrefill between the head and the body before
completing sewing to avoid that the head hangs down.
Finally sew the tail to bottom back of the body and add ribbon with a necktie if you wish.
Congratulations, you have completed Silver Cat The Ami !
*COPYRIGHT NOTICE*
All items are my original design and reproducing, distributing or selling any of my
patterns (including pictures), or claiming them as your own is strictly prohibited.
You are welcome to donate as well as sell any of the finished items made from my
patterns.
I do ask that you give me credit for the design of the pattern and if you choose to sell
online you are required to add the link to my shop.
Love at First Sight
Hooded Cowl Pattern
By: Brandy Lynn, Fad Fabulous Crochet
Fadfabulouscrochet.blogspot.com
Ravelry.com/people/fadfabcrochet
Let's set the scene...
A handsome young man is sitting at
the train station on a cold winter
day. The train pulls up, and a crowd
of people come off the train and out
into the open. Amidst the crowd, a
glimpse of red catches his eye. It's a
beautiful woman dressed all in
black, with a lovely red scarf draped
over her head, catching his eye as it
blows in the wind. She turns & he
realizes that she is the most beautiful
woman he has ever seen...
Could it be love at first sight? It just
might be with the Love at First
Hooded Cowl!
Difficulty Level – Intermediate
1|Page
fadfabulouscrochet.blogspot.com
Love at First Sight Hooded Cowl
Supplies needed:
J10/6mm hook
Scissors
Tapestry or yarn needle
Yarn used:
½ of 1 skein of Caron 1 lb yarn in Claret
Crochet terms used:
SC - single crochet
FL SC – front loop only SC
DC – double crochet
SL ST - slip stitch
Crochet braiding
Mattress/Shoelace stitching
Gauge:
8 rows of 13 DC = 4" x 4"
Weight Category:
4medium - worsted
Finished Measurements:
16” W x 17” H (folded flat)
Beginning Banding:
Chain 11
Row 1 – Chain 1, 1 SC in 2nd loop from hook, 1 SC in each stitch across (10), SL ST to join, turn.
Rows 2-99 – Chain 1, 1 FL SC in each stitch across (10), turn.
Cowl Body:
In this section, you will be creating rows in rounds with no turns, with 9 sections of 6 chains that will
later be formed into a braided pattern in the cowl. If you look at the diagram below, you can see the 6
chain sections mentioned, plus the DC sections in between that build the body of the cowl.
2|Page
fadfabulouscrochet.blogspot.com
Love at First Sight Hooded Cowl
Use the chart below to create the remainder of the cowl, row 1 & row 26 are rows with chain 1, 1 SC
in each stitch to the end of the row. All other rows of the cowl will be either 1 DC in each stitch (as
specified in the diagram below), or chain 6 sections. Each DC row begins with chain 2 (counts as 1st
stitch). In each chain 6 section, you will also skip 6 stitches. Note the stitch counts in the right column.
Once the chain 6 sections are braided (per instructions below) the extra counts in the rows will be used
so that the cowl will lay nice & straight when worn, with a pretty braided effect on the outside. Do not
complete last SC row until braiding is complete.
Entire row 1 SC per stitch
Left side hourglass shape braid row
Right side hourglass shape braid row
Straight line braid row
Total row stitch count
Row
#DC
#DC
#DC
#DC
#DC
#DC
#DC
#DC
#DC
1
99
2
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
144
3
6
11
6
8
6
11
6
11
6
8
6
11
6
11
6
8
6
11
144
4
6
12
6
6
6
12
6
12
6
6
6
12
6
12
6
6
6
12
144
5
6
13
6
4
6
13
6
13
6
4
6
13
6
13
6
4
6
13
144
6
6
14
6
2
6
14
6
14
6
2
6
14
6
14
6
2
6
14
144
7
6
14
6
2
6
14
6
14
6
2
6
14
6
14
6
2
6
14
144
8
6
13
6
4
6
13
6
13
6
4
6
13
6
13
6
4
6
13
144
9
6
12
6
6
6
12
6
12
6
6
6
12
6
12
6
6
6
12
144
10
6
11
6
8
6
11
6
11
6
8
6
11
6
11
6
8
6
11
144
11
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
144
12
6
9
6
12
6
9
6
9
6
12
6
9
6
9
6
12
6
9
144
13
6
8
6
14
6
8
6
8
6
14
6
8
6
8
6
14
6
8
144
14
6
8
6
14
6
8
6
8
6
14
6
8
6
8
6
14
6
8
144
15
6
9
6
12
6
9
6
9
6
12
6
9
6
9
6
12
6
9
144
16
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
144
17
6
11
6
8
6
11
6
11
6
8
6
11
6
11
6
8
6
11
144
18
6
12
6
6
6
12
6
12
6
6
6
12
6
12
6
6
6
12
144
19
6
13
6
4
6
13
6
13
6
4
6
13
6
13
6
4
6
13
144
20
6
14
6
2
6
14
6
14
6
2
6
14
6
14
6
2
6
14
144
21
6
14
6
2
6
14
6
14
6
2
6
14
6
14
6
2
6
14
144
22
6
13
6
4
6
13
6
13
6
4
6
13
6
13
6
4
6
13
144
23
6
12
6
6
6
12
6
12
6
6
6
12
6
12
6
6
6
12
144
24
6
11
6
8
6
11
6
11
6
8
6
11
6
11
6
8
6
11
144
25
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
6
10
144
26
99
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Love at First Sight Hooded Cowl
After completing these 26 rows, you will need to begin your braid rows. It is easiest to do this step the
1st 25 rows are completed. As you can see, there are 3 straight braid rows in between the pairs of braid
rows that form an hourglass-like shape. To form your first braid, take a chain 6 from your 1st straight
chain 6 row, since it’s easier to start with the straight rows. Using either your hook or your finger, lift
the loop the chain 6 causes & turn it over once so I appears twisted, with a hole in the center. Pick up
the chain 6 in the next row with your other hand & feed it straight through the hole in the first loop you
created, pulling it tightly through the loop. Then take the next chain 6 & feed it through the new hole,
proceeding this procedure with every new chain 6 until all have been pulled through and braided.
Below are pictures of the braiding process as well as the ending result braid.
Keep in mind the turns in the hourglass areas. If the braid comes out uneven, make sure you pull
evenly on the loops when braiding. You can also pinch the row sideways to help even out the tension
on the row.
When completed, you will have created 9 braid rows. You will then complete your final round with 1
SC in each stitch, looping a SL ST around the ends of the loops of your braids to fasten them down &
secure them.
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Love at First Sight Hooded Cowl
Bottom Banding:
Complete the same steps to create the bottom banding as you did when creating the top banding.
Mattress/shoelace stitch to the bottom of the securely braided cowl to complete.
You can also wear the cowl down around your neck, or slide it down around your shoulders to keep
you warm & cozy. Enjoy!
_________________________________________________________________________
This pattern was created in loving memory of a dear friend who passed very suddenly & very unexpectedly. She always
wore red to remind how much love one should give every day… She said nothing in life is a straight line… It is full of
wiggles & squiggles & hard times, so that when you do go down the easy road, you never take it for granted… She was
wise beyond her years with the brightest soul and the warmest heart… To know her was to love her the moment you met
her… Her laughter was contagious & her kindness unwavering. I’ve never known anyone as genuine & selfless & so full
of love… She is an inspiration to us all, even in death… RIP Samantha, you will always be loved & never forgotten!
_____________________________________________________________________________________
*All patterns and photos provided are for your personal use & not for resale/distribution. Any items made using this pattern may be sold as long as due
credit is given to me as the pattern creator. Thank you! 
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Love at First Sight Hooded Cowl
Page |1
Crowned Cowl Infinity Scarf
Thank you so much for your interest in my pattern. I hope you’re able to make
many beautiful scarves with it. If you have any questions please contact me
through my website at: http://www.crochet4mybutterfly.com
Copyright Notice: If you choose to sell what you make from this pattern, I ask that you please list
crochet4mybutterfly.etsy.com as the source for the design. You do NOT have permission to copy,
re-write, re-distribute or re-sell my patterns in any form, as your own or otherwise.
Page |2
Experience: Intermediate
Size: Fits most and measures approximately 60” or desired length. To change
size add or subtract additional 3 chains to starting chain.
Materials:
Approx 200 yards of size 3 or 4 yarn
Crochet hook: 5.0 mm or hook needed to obtain gauge
Tapestry needle
Pattern Notes: Gauge – 6 rows in pattern stitch = 3x7 inch square
Beg chain 3 counts as dc unless otherwise stated.
Beg Shell = ch 3 & 4 dc in same stitch
Shell = 5 dc
ABBREVIATIONS:
SC – single crochet; SL – slip; SK – skip; SP – space; ST(s) – stitch(es)
Note: Crowned Cowl is an infinity scarf that is worked in the round and wraps easily
around ones next 2 times.
Let’s Begin!
Round 1 - Chain 231, join to form circle (being careful not to twist chain); work Beg
Shell in same stitch at the initial chain 3 of beg shell, *skip next 2 chains and sc into
next chain skip next chain and work shell, continue around and join with slip stitch to
beg shell.
Round 2 – slip stitch to previous rounds sc & work beg shell into sc from previous
round, sc into top of next shell, alternating between shell and sc crochet around the
scarf, join with slip stitch.
Copyright Notice: If you choose to sell what you make from this pattern, I ask that you please list
crochet4mybutterfly.etsy.com as the source for the design. You do NOT have permission to copy,
re-write, re-distribute or re-sell my patterns in any form, as your own or otherwise.
Page |3
Round 3 – 20; repeat round 2 until you have 20 rows of pattern or until desired
thickness is reached.
Sew in ends, I hope you enjoy making this pattern and that you get lots of use
out of this scarf.
Copyright Notice: If you choose to sell what you make from this pattern, I ask that you please list
crochet4mybutterfly.etsy.com as the source for the design. You do NOT have permission to copy,
re-write, re-distribute or re-sell my patterns in any form, as your own or otherwise.
Breaking Down Yarn Labels!
By: Jessica Mays
So, you are in the yarn store, looking for the
perfect yarn for your next hat. But, there are all
these different kinds and you
aren’t sure what to do! You love
the super bulky wool blend yarn
and think that would be perfect,
but the pattern says “Aran” or
“Worsted” weight for the
materials. Now, what do you do?
Assume it is the kind you need,
go home to crochet it and then
BOOM- your hat will now fit
Goliath? Or, stand in the yarn
aisle for two hours wondering
what on earth Aran is, how to decipher it, and
praying that someone would simply come to you
and say “This is the perfect yarn for your patterngo and crochet!”?
We have all been there. Trust me on this. I read DK
weight on a pattern once and about went out of
my mind trying to figure out what yarn at my local
store was DK weight!
This, good friends, is what the pretty labels on
those lovely skeins, balls and hanks of beautiful at
the store are for!
Follow me into the craft room. (Or closet,
bedroom, or living room pile of love you have next
to the couch) and pull out a fresh skein. We all
know it’s there, don’t worry! Shame doesn’t live in
this article, I give you my word! On that skein is a
paper band, noting what brand and name the yarn
is. Under that is a slew of symbols and numbers
that you would never understand unless you are a
mad genius or someone who has been there and
has mercy told you how to read!
First, we will look at the weight/ yardage. The box
listing how many ounces/ grams and the one next
to that stating the yardage/meters
are basically to give you a rough idea
of HOW MUCH fiber is in that one
skein. For example, I have a worsted
weight yarn that says 4 oz/113 g and
204 yds/ 187 meters. Next to that, I
have a skein of super bulky yarn that
says 5 oz/ 142 g and 81
Yds/74 m. If I crocheted a hat from
both of these skeins I will have just
enough to crochet/ knitter one adult
sized beanie. I know what you’re
thinking, “But, Jessica, one has a fewer yards than
the other!
That doesn’t make any sense!” Ah! But, it does!
Because the bulky yarn is heavier, and will use a
larger hook, it takes much less yarn to make a hat
than it would take with another type of yarn.
Imagine thread versus rope. It would take
significantly more thread to cover the same
amount of ground that the rope would occupy. This
is the same principle. Because the worsted weight
yarn is thinner, I am going to need much more to
do what only a few yards of super bulky yarn would
do!
Next, you will see a picture of a ball of yarn with a
number on it, typically between 0 and 6. 0 would
be lace thread, and 6 would be super bulky yarn.
The purpose of this number is to tell the crocheter/
knitter how thick the yarn is. Aran/ Worsted tends
to be 4, or medium. It is a happy middle ground,
and is more used than many other weight yarns
when crocheting or knitting.
Sometimes, this number will also be on a band on the “display” side of the band, with the brand name.
Beside that number, there will be two equally confusing graphs. One will have two needles, and the other will
have one crochet hook in the middle of them. Above them will have a measurement stating 4 in x 4 in/ 10 cm
x 10 cm. around those squares will be various confusing numbers. This is called a gauge swatch. The letter and
number at the top of the picture will show what size hook or needle is needed.
On the bottom of the picture will be a number and then the letter “S”, and on the right side of the picture
there will be another number and the letter “R”. This is to say, “With this size hook or needle, if you make so
many Stitches for so many Rows your gauge will be equal to a 4 inch by 4 inch or 10 cm by 10 cm square. With
the bulky yarn, my graph says if I crochet 6.6 stitches for 8 rows with a size N hook, my square should be 4
inches by 4 inches. If you have a pattern that says to use bulky yarn and a size N hook, and you get worsted
weight yarn, you’ll find that your pattern won’t come out.
Likewise, if you have a pattern that calls for worsted weight yarn and a size H hook, and you buy sport/ dk
weight or bulky yarn for your project, you’ll have issues. Look at your graph, they are made to be your friendsnot your foes! Trust the numbers!
Now, for the final symbols. If you ever do
laundry according to the washing instructions
on clothes, then this part is a breeze and you
are already okay. For the other 90% of the
human population that just throws all of their
dirty laundry right into the machine with
absolute abandon and no worry at all
about the care of their clothing, let’s continue!
There will be several different symbols that
relay machine washable or non-washable, air
or machine dry, iron or not iron safe, and like
instructions. The symbols on each kind of yarn
can differ with weight, manufacturer/ spinner, type of fiber, and dyes. Pay attention to each symbol to know
how to clean and care for your homemade goodies!
WHOO! We got through it! Do you see now how to read your yarn labels? Don’t let trepidation get to you, my
friends! These labels are made to assist you in all of your crafting needs- and when you pay attention to them
they can go a long way in helping your crochet goodies be even better than ever!
Enjoy and happy crocheting, friends!
LITTLE CUPCAKE TOBOGGAN
When I look at babies, I
absolutely just melt. I think
of how innocent and SWEET
they are: and what’s
sweeter than a cupcake? A
cupcake on a baby, of
course! This pattern turned
out so precious, and
worked up so quickly. We
are pleased with ours and
know you will enjoy yours
too!
A cupcake on my cupcake!
Materials:
1 Skein Caron Simply soft, white
1 Skein Bernat Baby Coordinates, tulips
Scrap red worsted yarn
Tapestry needle
Size H hook
Abbreviations:
CH- chain
SL- slip stitch
HDC- half double crochet
DC- double crochet
FPDC- front post double crochet
BPDC- back post double crochet
BPDC2TOG- back post double crochet 2 together (decrease using
back post stitches)
Newborn (up to 3 months)
In the magic loop, HDC 24. SL to join. CH 2
Round 1: 2 HDC in the first stitch, 1 HDC in each of the
next 2 stitches. Repeat throughout. SL to join. CH 2
Round 2: 2 HDC in the first stitch, 1 HDC in each of the
next 3 stitches. Repeat throughout. SL to join. CH 2.
Round 3: 2 HDC in the first stitch, 1 HDC in each of the
next 4 stitches. Repeat throughout. SL to join. CH 2.
Round 4-8: 1 HDC in each stitch around. SL to join. CH 2.
Round 9: *BPDC in each of the first 3 stitches. BPDC2TOG.
** Repeat from * to ** throughout. Join with SL. CH 2.
Round 10: (with CC- white) *FPDC in the first stitch. BPDC
in next. ** Repeat throughout, ending in a BPDC.
Round 11- 15: Repeat row 10.
Infant
In the magic loop, HDC 24. SL to join. CH 2
Round 1: 2 HDC in the first stitch, 1 HDC in each of the
next 2 stitches. Repeat throughout. SL to join. CH 2
Round 2: 2 HDC in the first stitch, 1 HDC in each of
the next 3 stitches. Repeat throughout. SL to join.
CH 2.
Round 3: 2 HDC in the first stitch, 1 HDC in each of
the next 4 stitches. Repeat throughout. SL to join.
CH 2.
Round 4: 2 HDC in the first stitch. 1 HDC in each of
the next 5 stitches. Repeat throughout. SL to join.
CH 3.
Round 5-10: 1 HDC in each stitch around. SL to join. CH 2.
Infant size round 11- Bphdc in first 4, bphdc2tog and
repeat throughout
Round 12: (with CC- white) *FPDC in the first stitch. BPDC
in next. ** Repeat throughout, ending in a BPDC.
Toddler
In the magic loop, HDC 24. SL to join. CH 2
Round 1: 2 HDC in the first stitch, 1 HDC in each of the
next 2 stitches. Repeat throughout. SL to join. CH 2
Round 2: 2 HDC in the first stitch, 1 HDC in each of the
next 3 stitches. Repeat throughout. SL to join. CH 2.
Round 3: 2 HDC in the first stitch, 1 HDC in each of the
next 4 stitches. Repeat throughout. SL to join. CH 2.
Round 4: 2 HDC in the first stitch. 1 HDC in each of the
next 5 stitches. Repeat throughout. SL to join. CH 3.
Round 5: 2 HDC in the first stitch. 1 HDC in each of the
next 6 stitches.
Round 6-12: 1 HDC in each stitch around. SL to join. CH 2.
Toddler size round 13- Bphdc in first 5, bphdc2tog repeat
throughout.Round 14: (with CC- white) *FPDC in the first
stitch. BPDC in next. ** Repeat throughout, ending in a
BPDC.
Round 15- 20: Repeat row 14.
Child
In the magic loop, HDC 24. SL to join. CH 2
Round 1: 2 HDC in the first stitch, 1 HDC in each of the
next 2 stitches. Repeat throughout. SL to join. CH 2
Round 2: 2 HDC in the first stitch, 1 HDC in each of the
next 3 stitches. Repeat throughout. SL to join. CH 2.
Round 3: 2 HDC in the first stitch, 1 HDC in each of the
next 4 stitches. Repeat throughout. SL to join. CH 2.
Round 4: 2 HDC in the first stitch. 1 HDC in each of the
next 5 stitches. Repeat throughout. SL to join. CH 3.
Round 5: 2 HDC in the first stitch. 1 HDC in each of the
next 6 stitches.
Round 6: 2 HDC in the first stitch. 1 HDC in each of the
next 7 stitches.
Round 7-14: 1 HDC in each stitch around. SL to join. CH 2.
Child size round 15- Bphdc first 6, bphdc2tog repeat
throughout
Round 16: (with CC- white) *FPDC in the first stitch. BPDC
in next. ** Repeat throughout, ending in a BPDC.
Round 17- 23: Repeat row 14.
All sizes- after the hat is done, crocheting ON TOP of the
stitches from the back posted row (the stitches will be
visibly displayed!) sl stitch into any one of those stitches.
Ch 1 and sc into the same stitch. *Skip 2 stitches and 5dc
into the next stitch. Skip 2 and sc into the next stitch. **
repeat from * to ** across. Weave in ends and enjoy!
[email protected]
www.craftedfortheking.blogspot.com
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www.ravelry.com/people/mamamays
Infinity Cowl in Sherbet
by: Funny Bunny Crochet
Materials:
• 1 skein Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable or 2 skeins Vanna’s Choice
• Yarn (3.5 oz. skein, 100 gram)
• Size H hook if working with Unforgettable yarn, Size I or J if working with
Vanna’s Choice Yarn
• Sewing needle for weaving in ends
Special Stitches:
4DCTOGETHER Yarn over hook, insert hook in first double crochet and pull up loop, yarn
over, draw through 2 loops, *yarn over, insert hook into next double
crochet, pull up loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops*. Repeat from * to *
twice more, yarn over and pull through all 5 loops on hook.
9DCTOGETHER Yarn over hook, insert hook in next double crochet and pull up loop, yarn
over and draw through 2 loops, *yarn over, insert hook into next double
crochet, pull up loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops*. Repeat from * to * 7
more times, yarn over and pull through all 10 loops on hook.
Pattern:
Chain 184 (or 207 for a longer, looser scarf) leaving a 5” dangling “tail” for
tying off and weaving in at the finish. Being careful not to twist chain, join
with slip stitch to first ch to form a large circle.
Chain 1, single crochet in same stitch. Pull your “tail” slightly to tighten that
stitch and ensure you will not unravel - this is important!
Beginning Round: Skip 3 chain stitches, *9 double crochet in next chain
stitch, skip 3 chain stitches, 1 single crochet in next stitch*. Repeat from *
to * around being careful not to twist your chain! Join with slip stitch to first
single crochet.
Round 2: Chain 3, 4DCTOGETHER over the next 4 double crochet
stitches, chain 4, single crochet in next double crochet, chain 3,
*9DCTOGETHER over the next 9 stitches, chain 4, single crochet in next
stitch, chain 3*. Repeat from * to * all the way around. 4DCTOGETHER in
the last 4 stitches, join with slip stitch to top of beginning 4DCTOGETHER.
Round 3: Chain 3, 4 double crochet in same stitch, *skip the chain 3, 1
single crochet on top of next single crochet, skip the chain 4, 9 double
crochet in “hole” on top of previous 9DCTOGETHER*. Repeat from * to *
across ending by skipping the chain 3 and the next stitch, 4 double crochet
in next stitch, slip stitch on top of beginning Chain 3.
Round 4: Chain 3, *9DCTOGETHER over next 9 stitches (be sure to loop
a small piece of yarn or use a stitch marker on your beginning Chain 3 in
order to find the final join easier), chain 4, 1 single crochet in next stitch,
chain 3*, repeat from * to * ending with final 9DCTOGETHER, chain 3,
single crochet in next stitch, slip stitch in same stitch. This gives that final
stitch a little more “bulk” than if you just did a slip stitch.
Round 5: Chain 1, *9 double crochet in top of 9DCTOGETHER, skip
chain 3, 1 single crochet in next single crochet*, repeat from * to * around,
skip the chain 3, single crochet in next stitch, slip stitch in next stitch
immediately next to it.
Repeat Rounds 2-5 one more time. Do one more Round 2 to end with. At
the end of Round 2, slip stitch in top of chain 3, finish off being sure to knot
everything securely and weave in ends to hide.
Visit me at my Ravelry store using the link below.
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#query=deborah%20currier%20hornyak
Sweetheart Slippers
By: Shari’s Simple Crochet Designs
www.facebook.com/sharisimplecrochetdesigns
These easy to make ballet style slippers would
make a perfect gift for that special Valentine in
your life. The color, size and embellishment
styles are endless.
MATERIALS:
☐ 4.5mm hook
☐ Loops & Threads Impeccable yarn (soft
taupe shown in this pattern)
☐ Loops & Threads Impeccable yarn (pink shown in this pattern)
☐ Ribbon of choice
☐ Tapestry needle
☐ Scissors
ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THIS PATTERN:
☐ Chain
☐ Single Crochet
ch
sc
☐ Double Crochet
dc
☐ Half Double Crochet
hdc
☐ Slip Stitch
sl
☐ Half Double Crochet 2 Together
hd2tog
Note for beginners: When you see a # in front of the stitch needed that is the # of
stitches you put in the next stitch together (increase) …when you see a # after the
stitch that is for you to put a stitch in each stich alone.
Pattern:
Ch 25
Round 1: 2sc in 2nd st from hook, sc 22, 3 sc in last st, sc 22 (while burying the tail under these
sts.), sl to join.
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in next st, dc 22, 2 dc, dc 1, 2 dc in next, dc 22, sl to join.
Round 3-4: Ch 2, 2 hdc in next, hdc 24, 2 hdc in next, 1 hdc, 2 hdc, hdc 24, sl to join.
Round 5: Ch 2, dc 4, hdc 3, sc 11, hdc2, hd2tog 10 X’s, hdc 2, sc 11, dc 4, sl to join.
Round 6: Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, dc 3, hdc3, sc 11, hdc 2, hdc2tog 6 X’s, hdc 3, sc 12, sl to join.
Round 7: Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, dc 3, hdc 3, sc 11, hdc 2, hdc2tog 4 X’s, hdc 2, dc 1. Sl to join.
Round 8: Ch 2, 1 hdc in same st., hdc 4, sc 15, sc2 tog 3 X’s, sc 9, hdc 2, sl to join.
Join Color B
Round 9: Ch 1, sc in each stitch around, sl to join.
Round 10: sl st into each stitch around.
Up Close and Personal
Sweater Wrap Pattern
By: Brandy Lynn, Fad Fabulous Crochet
Fadfabulouscrochet.blogspot.com
Ravelry.com/people/fadfabcrochet
Get up close and
personal with one that
you love with
confidence and beauty
in the Up Close and
Personal Sweater
Wrap!
Difficulty Level:
Advanced Intermediate
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fadfabulouscrochet.blogspot.com
Up Close and Personal
Sweater Wrap Pattern
Supplies needed:
J10/6mm hook
Scissors
Tapestry or yarn needle
2 buttons, sewing needle, & thread
Yarn used:
4 balls of Red Heart yarn in Claret
Crochet terms used:
CH – chain
DC - double crochet
V Cluster – 2DC/CH2/2DC (all in same stitch)
SL ST - slip stitch
Mattress or shoelace stitch
HDC – half double crochet
HDC decr – HDC decrease
SC – single crochet
BP SC – back post single crochet (similar to
back post double crochet, only working
around SC instead of DC)
FL SC – single crochet in front loop only
Crab stitch
Gauge:
8 rows of 13 DC = 4" x 4"
Weight Category:
4medium - worsted
Finished Measurements:
17” from underarm to wrist
57” complete span from 1 wrist to the other
6 ½” width of arm (folded in half lying flat)
18” chest span (made fitted)
14” empire waistband width (closed)
38” entire open waistband width
12” from hem to underarm (measured when
worn, starting from mid breast panel
level wear underarm falls.
Beginning Form:
Loosely chain 128
Row 1 – starting with 5th chain from hook, create
(2DC/CH2/2DC) V Cluster, all in same stitch, skip 2 stitches,
1 V Cluster in next stitch, skip 2 stitches, continue to end of
row (41 V clusters). End row with 1 DC in last stitch. Turn.
Rows 2-23 – Chain 3, skip 2 stitches, 1 V Cluster in 1st open
chain 2 space of the previous row (V clusters will stack on top
of each other vertically). Place 1 V Cluster in each chain 2
space across, skipping 2 stitches between each cluster
(41). End row with 1 DC in last stitch. turn.
Fasten off & weave ends in.
Forming of the Body:
You will fold the beginning form piece in half lengthwise.
You will be forming your left sleeve, body opening, & right
sleeve. Count in 13 V Clusters from each end, using stitch
markers to mark the space where V Cluster 13 & 14 join on each, signifying where your sleeves
will form. This will leave 15 V Clusters in the center for your body opening. Starting with 1
arm, make sure that your V Cluster rows are evenly aligned, & mattress or shoelace stitch each
end together with your yarn & tapestry needle from the outside edge to the closest stitch marker.
Make sure not to sew too tightly or cuffs on the inside of the sleeve will be higher than the
outside. Fasten off & weave ends in. Repeat on other side to form other arm. From now on,
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Up Close and Personal
Sweater Wrap Pattern
your starting chain edge will in the body opening will form the top portion that will go around
your neck, & the top of your last V Cluster row formed will join with the waist portion of the
sweater.
Breast Panels: You will be forming 2 triangular pieces that will begin front of your sweater.
Chain 44.
Row 1 – Chain 2, 1 HDC in 3rd chain from hook, 1
HDC in each stitch across (42), turn.
Row 2 – Chain 2, 1 HDC decr in 1st stitch, 1 HDC
in remaining stitches across (41), turn.
Row 3 – Chain 2, 1 HDC in each stitch across,
HDC decr in last stitch (40), turn.
Rows 4-19 – repeat alternate row 2/row 3 sequence,
alternating HDC dec in beginning or end of row.
Last row will have 23 stitches.
Row 20 – Chain 2, 1 HDC in 1st 11 stitches, 1 HDC
decr in next stitch, 1 HDC in next 10 stitches, 1 HDC decr in last stitch (21).
Row 21 – Chain 2, 1 HDC decr in 1st stitch, 1 HDC next 9, 1 HDC decr, 1 HDC remaining 10
stitches (19)
Rows 22 – 26 – repeat alternate row 15/row 16
sequence, decreasing each stitch count by 1 on each
side of HDC decr (2 stitch decrease total per row).
Last row will have 3 stitches.
Row 27 – Chain 2, 1 HDC, 1 HDC decr, 1 HDC,
turn.
Row 28 – Chain 2, 1 HDC in last stitch. Fasten off
& weave in ends.
Repeat Process for 2nd breast panel.
Attaching breast panels to sweater:
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fadfabulouscrochet.blogspot.com
Up Close and Personal
Sweater Wrap Pattern
On the body piece formed previously & starting
with 1 arm, use stitch markers to mark the
intersection between the 3rd & 4th V cluster up
from arm/body intersection, & between the 2nd
& 3rd V cluster below arm intersection. This
will be the central point of where your breast
panel will be attached. Repeat same markings
with stitch markers on other arm opening
intersection. Mattress lace/shoelace sew each
panel in between marked sections. At first
glance it may look like the breast panels are too big for the marked openings, but I assure you
that once you stretch the openings into place & begin sewing the breast panels in, it will fit
nicely in the space provided & will lay as it will
once you put the sweater on when finished. You
will work from the very top of stitch of the top V
cluster to the very last stitch of the bottom V
cluster. Repeat on both sides.
Holding the sweater in front of you as if you
were wearing it, you will start on the bottom left
panel (50) across collar (55), down the top of the
left breast panel (50), & across the entire bottom
of the entire assembled piece (120). SL ST to join.
Waist Band:
Holding the sweater upside down, with the
outside of the sweater facing you, you will start
at the corner of the breast panel & crochet across
the it, around the body, to the corner of the other
breast panel, forming the waist band section. In
this section you will use the BP SC to make a
small ribbed effect on the top & bottom row of
the waistband. This section will have a
buttonhole at each end in the center of the
waistband. There will be 1 to wrap the sweater
around & button it with on the outside, as well as
a buttonhole formed for a button that will be
hidden button inside to help keep the sweater
closed, and you will form 2 button holes for
these buttons.
Row 1 – Chain 1, 1 SC in each stitch across
(120), turn.
Row 2 – Chain 1, 1 BP SC around the back of
each SC in previous row (120), turn.
Row 3 – Chain 1, 1 SC in each stitch across (120), turn.
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Row 4 – Chain 1, 1 SC in 1st 3 stitches, chain 3/skip 3 stitches (button hole), 1 SC in each stitch
across to last 6 stitches, chain 3/skip 3 stitches (button hole), 1 SC in last 3 stitches
(3+skip3+108+skip3+3), turn.
Row 5 – repeat row 3 (placing 1 SC per chain in button hole stitches) (120)
Row 6 – repeat row 2. DO NOT fasten off.
Lower waist panel: This section will extend down from the waistband you just created.
Continuing where you left off on the waist band, chain 31
Row 1, starting with the 2nd loop from hook, 1 SC in each stitch across (30), SL ST to 1st stitch
perpendicular to waistband, SL ST to next waistband stitch to begin next waist row, turn.
Row 2 – 1 FL SC in each stitch across (30), turn.
Row 3 – Chain 1, 1 FL SC in each stitch (30), SL ST to waist, SL ST to begin new row, turn.
Repeat alternating row 2/row 3 to end of waistband (120 rows total)
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With inside of sweater facing you & working from the bottom of the waist panel, chain 2 &
place 1 HDC in each row across to make sure the bottom of the sweater straight & even.
Cuffs & Borders:
Beginning at the end of the arm the where you stitched the arms together, you are going to form
a row of HDC around cuff to make sure it is straight & even. The # of HDC’s is dependent on
how wide you want the cuffs to be. I placed 46 HDC around, evenly distributed between stitches
& chain 2 spaces. To add a clean finish to your crochet, place a row of crab stitch edging
around, from corner of breast panel, across neck, down other breast panel, down waist section,
across bottom, up other side of waist section, back up to the corner, SL ST to join. Also add 1
row of crab stitch to each cuff.
Buttons:
After you have tried on the sweater to determine where the buttons need to be placed in relation
to the button holes, using your sewing needle & thread, sew the main button that will appear on
the outside when worn, to the outside of the outer waistband in the correct spot. The 2nd hidden
button will be sewn onto the inside of the sweater & out of sight, only to be used to keep the
inside up, the breast panel in place, & keep the bottom of the sweater laying straight against the
other side. Just wrap the sweater around, slide the buttons through & enjoy! :-)
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Visit my patterns page with all my crochet patterns written just for you!
_____________________________________________________________________________________
*All patterns and photos provided are for your personal use & not for resale/distribution. Any items made using this pattern may be sold as
long as due credit is given to me as the pattern creator. Thank you! 
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Lovely Cotton Loofah!
By: Crafted for the King
https://www.facebook.com/CraftedfortheKing?fref=ts
Who doesn't love loofahs? They are great
exfoliators and suds up well. But the only thing
that is not so great about them is that as soon
as you get to use it, it falls apart, or in General
doesn't last long at all! So, we figured why not
get some soft, absorbent and exfoliating cotton
and crochet one that would be machine
washable and dryer safe and more
environmentally friendly than just plastic tulle.
And here we have it! It works up very quickly,
and makes a great gift!
Difficulty level: easy
Materials needed:
* 3 skeins sugar and cream cotton
* H hook
* Yarn needle
Pattern:
Chain 30. Sl to join and make a ring.
Round 1: Ch 3. Make 16 DC into the first CH. Sl to join.
Round 2: CH 2. 5 DC in each stitch. SL to join
Round 3: CH 2. 5 DC in each stitch. SL to join.
Round 4: CH 2. 3 DC in each stitch. SL to join and weave in your ends!
Give as a gift or keep for your own spa experience!
Kathy’s Crochet
[email protected]
Sweetheart Tic-Tac-Toe
Difficulty level: Easy
This is a quick and easy game to occupy the kids. This game would be an easy to play game on
long road trips. You could also be make it into a pillow and given to that certain Valentine. The
possibilities are endless.
Materials needed:
 4.5 mm crochet hook
 H hook 5.00mm
 Red Yarn or pink yarn
 White Yarn
Abbreviations used in this pattern:
 Slip Stitch
 Single crochet
 Double crochet
 Half double crochet
 Triple crochet
 Magic circle
sl
sc
dc
hdc
tr
mc
Heart: (make 9)
Sc 7 into mc and pull tail to close circle, sl to close.
Row 1: ch 3, tr in same st, 2 dc in next st, 1 sc in next st,
Ch 2, 1 sc in next st, 2 dc in next st, 1 tr in next st, ch 3, sl st to join.
Tie off to starting tail to finish off.
Tic-Tac-Toe board:
Ch 30 with H hook
Row 1: with G hook; hdc in 2 st from hook, hdc in each stitch across, ch 2, turn (29 sts)
Row 2-18: 1 hdc in first st, 1 hdc in each of the next 28 sts.
Weave ribbon or single strand of yarn through dc to make tic tac toe squares.
ENTWINE
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