Recipes from Friends, Family & the Field Sarah M. Davies 1

Recipes from Friends, Family & the Field
Sarah M. Davies
1
Recipes from Friends,
Family and the Field
Sarah M. Davies
Copyright © 2013 by Sarah M. Davies
Cover photo by Lester A. Kish
Back cover photo courtesy of the author
All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced
without written permission of the author.
Print Management: Koehler + Co., Bozeman, MT. Printed in U.S.A.
First printing September 2013
Design by Yogesh Simpson & Russ Fry
2
Huns flushing from a solid point. Photo by Lester A Kish.
3
For my father, and the
land and the dogs we love.
And for Jaks, who did not get
to hunt long enough.
Paintings and illustrations throughout the book by James M Davies.
Line drawings by Kristi Lynch.
4
5
Contents
Acknowledgements
Introduction
How to Use This Book
08
10
12
The Game Pot
Master Gamebird Recipes
Early Mornings and Cold Feet
Early Mornings and Cold Feet (essay)
Dabbling or Puddle Ducks
Duck Recipes
Avocation (poem)
Canada Geese
Goose Recipes
16
17
18
32
33
34
The Other Stuff
Hors d’oeuvres
Out There (poem)
Sauces and Marinades
A few Side Dishes
A Smattering of Sweets
For Our Best Friends
Hiking with Guns
Hiking with Guns (essay)
Chukar
Chukar Recipes
Chukar Recess (essay)
Hungarian Partridge
Hungarian Partridge Recipes
Sharptail Grouse
Sharptail Recipes
Forest Grouse
Forest Grouse Recipes
Sage Hen
Sage Hen Recipes
Get Here Already (essay)
40
41
42
48
49
50
57
58
62
63
66
67
71
113
132
137
147
157
171
177
Resources and Index
Contributors
Recipe Resources
Conservation Resources
Recipe List
Index
178
180
180
182
184
Farm Yards and Fence Rows
Farm Yards and Fence Rows (essay)
Ring-necked Pheasant
Pheasant Recipes
Pheasants at the Edge of the World (essay)
Bobwhite Quail
Quail Recipes
Mourning Dove
Dove Recipes
Nothing (essay)
6
74
75
76
95
98
99
107
108
110
7
Acknowledgments
M
any wonderful people made A Bird Hunter’s Table possible. From inspiration and encouragement to
criticism and back-seat cooking, these pages are testament to the people around me.
This book would not have been possible without my father, Jim Davies. He taught me to love the outdoors
and passed along some of his creative talents. Attempting to follow his footsteps, I studied art in college,
trailed him up many hills and canyons after grouse, quail, and pheasant, and got involved in conservation
work. We lost Jim Davies unexpectedly in November 2011. He spent his last year painting through the
winter in Borrego Springs, CA; the summer fishing in Idaho; and the fall chasing a few birds. I dedicate
this book to him and know he will always be with me. Dad had a wonderful way of seeing and painting the
sky, and I see his skies nearly every day. His art is infused throughout this book.
To my mother, Sally Bingham, I owe thanks for an energy, inquisitiveness, and drive that got me to the
finish line on this book project and elsewhere in my life. She was consistently supportive despite the fact
that the first meal I ever cooked for her was a disaster (I was attempting to be a vegan and the whole meal
resembled cardboard). To my step mom, Patricia Davies, whose ideas and never-ending support means
more than I can say. Mary Alice Scott and The Gourmet Gamebird was an inspiration for this project and
she helped tremendously by providing some of her own wonderful recipes and reading through the early
versions of this book.
So many friends were involved with this book as guinea pigs and testers. They even offered to purchase
copies before I knew what I was doing! To Chris and Pete Coppolillo, Jo Ann Kish, Will Lassiter, Ben and
Penelope Pierce, and many others – thank you for braving my kitchen and being such good friends. This
book is filled with wonderful contributions of photos, essays, and the like, generously provided by contributors who are acknowledged in the back of this book. Their talents and my appreciation are boundless.
A special thanks to Les Kish for his wonderful photography and for letting me hike and hunt with Jo Ann;
Kristi Lynch for all of her fabulous illustrations that grace this book; and Denver Bryan for providing some
examples of his incredible photos. I also want to thank Yogesh Simpson for his ideas and talents reflected
in the design of the book. And, without Pam Koehler this book may never have been printed.
In addition to a love of hunting and fishing, I am fortunate to have a career in conservation, and to have
worked for a number of great organizations, including Trout Unlimited. Collectively my experiences and
my colleagues have made outstanding contributions to this book.
Lastly, there’s Whitney Tilt, who I will never be able to find the words to thank enough. In addition to
writing, editing, cooking, tasting, and hunting with me, he provided constant inspiration throughout the
process. He never let me feel discouraged and this book might never have come together without him. We
share a love of hunting, among many things, and preparing game for the table – he is my partner in this
project and going forward in life.
8
The author and her father fishing Stocker Creek, Idaho, 2011. Photo by Patsy Ishiyama.
9
Introduction
A
This cookbook would not be possible without Mary Alice Scott and her book The Gourmet
Gamebird, published in 1980. Mary Alice and her husband, Bob, are avid hunters and put together an original collection of recipes. My father, James M. Davies, illustrated the book. While
I wish I had a copy when I cooked my first duck, the book was my bible as I began to fully
explore and appreciate game cooking.
Bird Hunter’s Table is about cooking, eating, and sharing friendship. It is also about gundogs, gamebirds, and getting outside to enjoy the land.
I have many passions in life, two of which are cooking and hunting. I cook because there is
nothing better than being with good friends, and sharing wine and great conversation. I hunt
because I love working with my dog and hiking for miles in big landscapes.
For me, the hunt is about the people who own the land and are gracious and generous enough
to share it with me along with their stories of the land. It is about the dogs finding birds in likely
and unlikely places. It is about exploring and seeing new places. It is about the wildlife – eagles,
pronghorn, elk, snowshoe hares, mice, and even the snakes and porcupines that pose potential
harm to the dogs. And, the hunt is the shot of adrenaline you feel walking up to a dog on point,
the tenseness and excitement, and joy both of you feel when the bird actually comes down and
your dog brings it back to you. Ultimately, hunting is a story of friends and landscapes.
10
Bringing the game to hand is the first part of the story. My ability to hunt has come from years
of experience gleaned from my father and many others nice enough to share their expertise and
insights. The second part is honoring the game by treating it well and having it bring nourishment and fellowship to the table. Properly preparing and cooking the game has also taken a
similar lifetime of experience, of trial and error, and many, many people willing to share their
favorite hints and recipes.
Inspired by The Gourmet Gamebird, I was constantly collecting and tinkering with new recipes
as I enjoyed seasons of chasing gamebirds and bringing them to the table. In 2011, I had the
opportunity to visit with Mary Alice Scott and asked her what she thought of a revised The
Gourmet Gamebird. She responded enthusiastically and marked her favorite recipes. I asked my
father if he would consider illustrating the book and his wife, Patricia, also shared her collection
of recipes. With this wonderful core, A Bird Hunter’s Table was well launched.
A Bird Hunter’s Table includes over 130 recipes, collectively assembled by friends and family.
Prepared in my kitchen, many have been reforged into new creations that I hope you will enjoy.
In addition to the recipes, the book includes practical tips, stories from the field, and smattering
of natural history. This hodgepodge of learnings and experience are what hunting and cooking
are all about. I hope you will have fun cooking, sharing stories, and being with friends. And I
hope you will forever work to conserve our wildlife and protect their habitat.
11
As to a few simple rules, I have three: 1) treat your game well and it will treat you well on the
table; 2) never overcook the meat; and 3) use spices that enhance, but don’t overpower.
How to Use This Book
I
n A Bird Hunter’s Table, I have brought together a love of the field, the companionship of
friends and family, and a collection of tasty gamebird recipes that anyone can cook and enjoy.
Truth be told, except for baking and things that need specific measurements, I rarely use
complete recipes. I enjoy searching recipes for ideas and find myself constantly experimenting
with new combinations of flavors. This book is designed in the same vein, presenting recipes
to have fun with. I encourage you to use these recipes as starting points, as guides for further
exploration. The majority of recipes in this book can be adapted for any gamebird (or chicken
and pork), wild or farm raised. Many specialty grocery stores have guinea hen, quail, duck and
pheasant available fresh or frozen. And, while there are recipes presented for specific gamebird
species, feel free to substitute other species. For example, if you like the sounds of a duck recipe
don’t be afraid to try it with sharptail. And don’t be afraid to simplify everything–try sprinkling
salt and pepper over a gamebird breast, pan fry it in olive oil in skillet, and drizzle a fabulous
sauce over it. The point is that cooking gamebirds is simple and you needn’t be too concerned
about the specific recipe. The same does not apply to cooking times, however, as emphasized
below.
I try to cook seasonally and while this book does not specifically reflect the seasons, there are
heavier dishes for winter and lighter preparations for spring and summer. And you can plan your
side dishes to be seasonal. The best meals do not need to be elaborate. The key is to know a few
simple rules (see below) and then have fun.
The recipes in this book may also be made dairy and gluten free. Feel free to use olive oil or
substitute with Earth Balance, a soy based “butter”. There is little gluten in the book and it can
be omitted completely. If you have other allergens, I encourage you to explore and substitute
ingredients to your tastes.
12
When in the field do a careful job to keep your game clean and cool, field dress as soon as
convenient, and when completing the plucking and freezing, make sure birds are clean and dry.
The number one mistake in the preparation of game is overcooking the meat. It is always better
to undercook. At worst, it can go back on the stove or in the oven. Once overcooked, the game
is only fit for the dog, and even she may turn it down. With rare exceptions, wild gamebirds
will be leaner than farm raised animals, and cooking times will vary accordingly. So use a meat
thermometer, testing by cutting into it, or guess by the firmness. The meat will continue to cook
a bit after you remove it from the heat, so best again to err on the side of rare. Chukar, pheasant,
quail, and grouse and the other upland birds should have an internal temperature of roughly
130 degrees for rare, while ducks and geese should be around 120 degrees. Many people find it
hard to tell when the darker meat –duck, sharptail, sage hen – is cooked but one thing is sure: if
the meat looks cooked, then it is overdone.
Like many cooks, I regularly start a recipe with garlic and onions, but most important to me
and my taste buds are a few dried spices that I always have on hand in my spice cabinet: Chinese five spice (enjoy making your own), cumin, coriander, paprika (Spanish smoked paprika),
sumac, and thyme. And more recently some type of homemade zatar rub (see Grilled Gamebird
Skewers with Zatar Rub, page 116).
Finally, I get my inspiration in a variety of ways and have listed some resources in the back of the
book. The cooking of two chefs have given me great guidance: Mario Batali and Jamie Oliver.
When I found myself looking for something new, I would more likely than not look to their
recipes for ideas.
In closing, I am often asked for some of my favorite recipes as a starting point. Here are some
suggestions:
Duck with Giant Croutons
Chukar Puttanesca
Herb Marinated Grilled Chukar Breast
Hun Curry
Soused Sharptail
Pheasant Sautéed with Sage, Bacon and Port Wine
Pheasant Cassoulet
Grilled Gamebird Skewers with Zatar Rub
Spanish Gamebird Burgers
I hope you will enjoy this book, cooking with friends and family, and sharing stories of the field.
13
Early Mornings & Cold Feet
14
Black Labrador Retriever in blind. Photo by Denver Bryan.
15
Early Mornings and Cold Feet
By Whitney Tilt
T
o rise in the dark hours long before the threat of sunrise; to haul gear through chill air, shucking mud and
threatening ice; to sit attempting to hold on to remnants of
body warmth; these are among the reasons to question the
sanity of waterfowling. Thankfully, our early rise is greeted
with joy by our gundog companions, the work setting up
blinds and decoys and sitting still in the dark are all prelude
to the first sound of whispering wings, of quacks in the
dark, and dawn rising in the east.
Often the dog is the first to see incoming birds, shaking
uncontrollably, not from the cold but from the excitement.
Toiling ducks come in hard and fast in the gloaming dawn
but become more and more cautious as the light strengthens. From the hard-earned knowledge that movement and
upturned faces are a sure way to flair ducks long before
coming into range, I fight the urge to look up at the vibrant
colors of mallards and pintails as they work the decoys.
Hunting companions call birds as they appear, “ten o’clock,
low.” Swinging for a proper lead, we are challenged by the
layers of camouflage clothing and muscles made stiff from
the cold and sitting still. Two greenheads dropped from the
incoming flock bring eager dogs into play. Mindless of the
cold water and fringe ice, the dogs soon proudly present the
ducks for our approval. A job well done to dogs and hunters
alike, a confirmation of the species and gender performed, a
search for a band and progress toward our bag total completed, we return to searching the skies. What early morning, what cold feet?
F
DABBLING OR PUDDLE DUCKS
ound “bottoms-up” feeding in pond and marsh shallows, dabbling ducks are
strong-flying birds which take off almost vertically from the water’s surface. For
waterfowl hunters, two species often reign supreme as the ducks to bag and bring to
the table – the Mallard and Northern Pintail.
Mallards (Anas platyrhynchos), are large ducks with the males sporting the distinctive
green head, white neck band, and rusty breast that give them their nickname “Greenheads.” The Mallard is one of the most widely distributed duck species in North
America, being found on city park ponds to the prairie potholes of North Dakota. A
loud single “quack” or series of “quacks” announce the presence of a female or “Suzy.”
In flight, Pintail (Anas acuta) are handsome, agile flyers with a slimmer, long-necked
profile than the Mallard. The male “bull sprig” sport long, sharp tails with white
underparts and a dark brown head. Its call is a short whistle.
By the early 1980s decades of habitat loss and hunting pressure had depressed continental waterfowl populations. Concern among wildlife managers and hunters lead
to development and the implementation of the North American Waterfowl Management Plan which targeted priority habitats for acquisition, restoration and enhancement in Canada, Mexico and the United States. The condition of potholes and other
wetlands, along with nesting cover, are two factors affecting Mallard and Pintail
populations annually.
On the table, both Mallard and Pintail provide moist dark red meat, ideal for roasting whole, gently sautéing the breasts, or using the legs for confit.
16
17
Barbecued Duck or Pheasant Halves Lillian
Contributed by Lillian Ditchburn from The Gourmet Gamebird
2 whole ducks or pheasants (split with skin on)
1 tablespoon butter
¼ cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons sherry
2 green onions, chopped
Lay the split birds skin side down in a shallow dish. In a small sauce pan, combine the butter, soy
sauce, sherry, and green onions. Heat until the butter melts and pour over the birds. Marinate the
birds for at least one hour.
When ready to cook, barbecue the birds for roughly 5-7 minutes per side, depending on the size of
the bird, with the lid down.
Heat the leftover marinade and serve over the birds with white or wild rice. The birds may also be
cooked inside a preheated oven broiler.
Ducks in Wine Sauce
In the skillet, mix the flour and 2 tablespoons of butter. Add the chicken broth, burgundy, onion, bay
leaf, salt and a dash of pepper. Cook and stir until thickened and bubbly. Add mushrooms. Pour over
the ducks and cover. Bake in a 350 degree oven for 1½ hours until tender. Transfer ducks to a platter
(remove bay leaf ) and serve over rice.
Duck Supreme
Contributed by Mary Alice Scott, The Gourmet Gamebird
2 whole ducks (1 large duck will usually serve 2 people)
¼ cup brandy
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup sour cream
Duck livers, mashed
1 cup chicken stock
Salt, white pepper and cayenne to taste
Parsley
Contributed by R. Carter Dye, by way of Patricia Davies
Preheat the oven to 500 degrees.
6 wild ducks
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup chicken broth
½ cup burgundy or red wine
2 tablespoons chopped onion
1 bay leaf
½ teaspoon salt
8-10 sliced mushrooms (or 1 3-ounce can of sliced mushrooms drained)
Place the ducks in a roasting pan and cook rare: Small ducks – 10 minutes; medium ducks – 15
minutes; large ducks – 20 minutes.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Simmer ducks, covered, in a small amount of salted water for 20-30 minutes. Drain.
Remove the ducks from the oven. Using a sharp knife, fillet off the breast meat with the leg attached.
You may want to use a glove to hold the hot bird while carving. Transfer the meat to a platter and
cover to keep warm while preparing the sauce.
Pour off all the duck fat from the roasting pan and set aside for future use, if desired. In a small saucepan, warm the brandy on the stove and flame. Combine the butter and brandy in the roasting pan
and deglaze the pan scarping up the bits. Whisk in the sour cream, mashed duck livers, stock and
cream. Continue stirring until the sauce is hot, but not boiling. Add salt, white pepper and cayenne
to taste. Pour the brandy cream sauce over the duck halves. Garnish with parsley.
Note: The leftover duck is great for lunch. Serve with cold asparagus and mustard mayonnaise.
In a skillet heat the butter (adding a bit of oil to keep it from burning) and brown the ducks evenly.
Transfer the ducks to a baking dish.
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Pan-seared Duck Breasts with Apple Cider Sauce
4-6 duck breasts, skin on or off
1/2-1 slice of bacon per duck breast (optional)
3-4 tablespoons olive oil
Sea salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste
2-3 cloves garlic, minced, to taste
3 tablespoons Worcestershire
1 cup unfiltered apple juice (or 1 cup apple cider and no vinegar)
¼ cup apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
¼ cup dry sherry or Marsala
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
2-3 tablespoons chilled butter
¼ cup shallots or green onions, chopped (or combination)
Wash the duck breasts and pat dry. Season the duck with salt, pepper and minced garlic. Heat roughly 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until hot, but not smoking. Add
duck to pan. If your breasts have skin, place the duck skin side down. If not place the duck on top of
a slice of bacon (see note below). Drizzle 11/2 tablespoons Worcestershire over the duck. Turn the
meat once and brown the meat on the other side, but not past rare. About 3 minutes a side. Drizzle
the remaining Worchester when you turn the ducks. Place the duck on a plate and cover loosely with
a foil tent.
Add the shallots to the pan and cook until softened. Scrape the bottom of the skillet to loosen any
browned bits. Add additional garlic if you like, and olive oil if necessary (you should not need to add
any additional oil if you are using bacon). Add the apple juice, vinegar, lemon juice, sherry, and thyme
to the pan and reduce to about ¼ to ½ cup. Add salt and pepper to taste. Remove the pan from heat
and whisk in the butter until emulsified. Slice the duck and arrange on plates. Spoon sauce over and
top and serve.
Spicy Duck Breasts
Adapted from The Gourmet Gamebird
4 wild duck breasts, skinned and deboned
1 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
4 green onions, chopped
2 tablespoons Worcestershire
2 tablespoons green pepper or jalapeño jelly (or substitute currant jelly)
4 tablespoons brandy
1½ cup red wine
Tabasco
Sliced mushrooms (optional)
Wash and pat the duck breasts dry. Dust each breast with flour.
Heat the oil and butter in a skillet until bubbly. Brown the breasts evenly, about 2 minutes per side.
Remove the breasts from the pan and set aside on a warm plate.
Add the green onions to the skillet and cook 2 minutes. Add the jelly and stir until it melts. Add the
brandy, wine, Worcestershire, mushrooms, and a drop of Tabasco. Boil until the mixture thickens and
reduces to about ½ (about 5 minutes).
To finish, add the breasts to the sauce and reheat thoroughly turning them in the sauce (about 3 minutes) until done. They should still be pink. Slice or serve one breast per person on a plate and spoon
the sauce over the top.
Dad’s advice: Don’t use birds that have been migrating across the bay or salt water for a week.
Note: I recommend including the bacon in the recipe whether your birds have skin or not. Simply cook
the bacon prior to cooking the birds. And, if your birds do not have skin on, you should place the bacon
in the pan with the breast on top. You will turn the bacon and then turn the bird on top of the bacon.
20
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Contributors
Denver Bryan is an internationally published photographer whose work has
won numerous awards, appeared in books as well as graced the pages of magazines such
as National Wildlife, Field & Stream, Smithsonian, National Geographic and many others. Originally a wildlife biologist by training, Denver has traveled extensively and photographed the wildlife of North America and Africa. He lives with his wife Anne and two
retrievers in Bozeman, MT. www.denverbryan.com.
Kristi Lynch hails from Pasadena, California. She has been married 40
years to Philip, and has two daughters and five grandchildren. Kristi graduated as
an art major from the University of Southern California. She is now retired in the
Wood River Valley, Idaho with her family and enjoys the many beautiful natural
scenes to study and paint.
Steve and Janis Barrett
Betsy Blatcher
Fitz Coker and Dotty Ballantyne
Chris and Pete Coppolillo
Charles Conn
Allison Davies
James Davies
Matthew Davies
Patricia Davies
R Carter Dye
Caroline Galloway
Les Kish shown here in the Brooks Range of Alaska, has hunted and fished
extensively throughout North America. Nowadays, he hunts less, fishes more, and
usually packs a camera. His outdoor musings can be found on his blog “The Ignorant Angler” (theignorantangler.blogspot.com).
Barbara Gerber
Patsy Ishiyama
Jean Kahn
Jo Ann Kish
Tom Reed is the author of three books and a frequent contributor to Mouth-
ful of Feathers, a bird hunting blog, www.mouthfuloffeathers.com. He lives in hot
pursuit of four English setters and can be found outside the small mountain town of
Pony, MT, when he slows down. For more information see tomreedbooks.com.
Will Lassiter
Janet Lily
Greg McReynolds
John Montague
Ed Opler
Mary Alice Scott
Richard Price
Whitney Tilt operates a consulting business in Bozeman, MT specializing in strategic
Chris Tilt
planning, evaluation, and issue management on a wide range of natural resource issues. He is
a partner in High Country Apps and develops field guides for smart phones and tablets, as
well as the author of Flora of Montana’s Gallatin Region (2011). When not focused on natural
resources conservation, Whitney is to be found “sampling” the resource, fishing, hunting,
hiking and otherwise enjoying the outdoors.
178
Laura Opler
published The Gourmet Gamebird in 1980 which my
father, Jim Davies, illustrated. The Gourmet Gamebird has been a staple in many
kitchens and it is through her generosity and inspiration that A Bird Hunter’s Table
is possible. Mary Alice lives in Hillsborough, CA with her husband Bob and continues to enjoy a passion for hunting and preparing game for the table.
Bob Renier
Jane Slater
Bob Stephens
Mac Tilt
Sally Uhlmann
Fred Vogel
179
Recipe Resources
All About Roasting, Molly Stevens, W. W. Norton & Company, 2011
Duck Country: Ducks Unlimited Cookbook, Billy Joe Cross, Ducks Unlimited, Inc., 1998
The Gourmet Gamebird, Mary Alice Scott, The Duck Press, 1980
Happy Days with the Naked Chef, Jamie Oliver, Hyperion Books, 2002
How to Eat, Nigella Lawson, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2002
HuntFishCook.com, Scott Layseth
Molto Italiano, Mario Batalli, HarperCollins Publishers, Inc., 2005
Savory Wild Game Cookbook, Chuck and Blanche Johnson, Wilderness Adventures Press, 2004
Simple Italian Food, Mario Batalli, Clarkson Potter Publishers, 1998
Seven Fires, Grilling the Argentine Way, Francis Mallman, Artisan, 2009
The Food Network, www.foodnetwork.com/topics/pheasant
Wild About Game, Janie Hibler, Broadway Books, 1998
Conservation Resources
The following are several organizations working to protect our hunting heritage and opportunities. If you are not already a member of one or more of these organizations and are a bird
hunter, please consider becoming a member or volunteering. Delta Waterfowl
P.O. Box 3128
Bismarck, ND 58502
Phone: 888-987-3695
www.deltawaterfowl.org
Ducks Unlimited, Inc.
One Waterfowl Way
Memphis, Tennessee, USA 38120
Phone: 1-800-45DUCKS or 901-758-3825
www.ducks.org
Pheasants Forever, Inc.
1783 Buerkle Circle
St Paul, MN 55110
Phone: 651-773-2000 or 877-773-2070
Email: [email protected]
www.pheasantsforever.org
180
Quail Forever
Phone: 866-457-8245
www.quailforever.org
Ruffed Grouse Society
451 McCormick Road
Coraopilis, PA 15108
Phone: 888-5646-747 (888-JOIN-RGS)
Email: [email protected]
www.ruffedgrousesociety.org
Trout Unlimited
1300 North 17th Street, Suite 500
Arlington, VA 22209
Phone: 800-834-2419
Email: [email protected]
www.tu.org
181
Recipe List
Early Mornings and Cold Feet
Duck
Barbecued Duck or Pheasant Halves Lillian
18
Ducks in Wine Sauce
18
Duck Supreme19
Pan-Seared Duck Breasts with Apple Cider Sauce
20
Spicy Duck Breasts21
Duck Stew23
Duck and Sausage Gumbo
24
Duck Burgers with Pecan Crust
25
Wild Duck Breasts with Cilantro Butter
27
Duck with Giant Croutons
28
Goose
Bob Steven’s Tender Goose
34
Barbecued Goose Breast with Bacon
34
Goose Breast Roulade
35
Slow Roasted Goose36
Hiking with Guns
Chukar
Orange Stuffed Chukar
42
Barbecued Stuffed Chukar 44
Herb Marinated Grilled Chukar Breast
45
Balsamic Glazed Roasted Chukar 46
Chukar Puttanesca47
Hungarian Partridge
Quick and Easy Sautéed Hungarian Partridge
or Sharptail50
Pan-Fried Hungarian Partridge with Pearl Barley,
Peas and Lettuce51
George’s Sautéed Partridge Breasts
52
Fried Hungarian Partridge
53
Hun Curry54
Hun Ragout55
Sharptail Grouse
Grouse with Mascarpone and Thyme
58
Roast Grouse with Gin and Juniper Berries 59
Soused Sharptail60
Trespassers Grouse Sauté 61
182
Forest Grouse
Dove
Sauces and Marinades
Northup-Style Ruffed Grouse with Artichoke Hearts 63
Marinated Grilled Ruffed or Blue Grouse
64
Ruffed Grouse Cacciatore
65
Dove de Navajoa Oscar
108
Sherried Dove108
Dove on a Nest
109
Sage Grouse
The Game Pot: Master
Gamebird Recipes
Chimichurri145
Sweet Heat Marinade146
Port Wine Gamebird Sauce
146
No-Fail Marinade147
Fred’s Poo Butter147
Cook’s Favorite Plum Sauce
148
Cranberry Sauce148
Blackberry Brandy Sauce 150
Chutney Mustard Dressing
150
Cumberland Sauce151
Madeira Sauce151
Green Tomato Chutney
152
Peach Chutney153
Barbecued Sage Hen or Blue Grouse
Sage Hen Spanish Stew
Sage Hen and Chukar Kabobs with
Chipotle Barbecue Sauce Mary Alice’s Sage Hen Fajitas 67
68
69
70
Farm Yards and Fence Rows
Pheasant
Pheasant Braised with Red Cabbage and Chestnuts
76
Pheasant Cutlets with Wild Mushrooms
77
Pheasant Sautéed with Sage, Bacon and Port Wine
78
Pheasant Paprikash79
Pheasant Breast in Brandy Horseradish
81
Braised Pheasant with Mushrooms and Bacon
82
Jean Kahn’s Pheasant Piccata
83
Asian Style Pheasant with Orange Flavor 84
Pheasant Fajitas with Pear, Lime and Mint Salsa
85
Pheasant (Gamebird) Pot Pie
86
Pheasant Cassoulet88
Easy Tomato Sauce89
Pheasant Stroganoff90
Pheasant Jambalaya91
Roasted Pheasant and Oyster Gumbo
92
Flushed Pheasant painting
93
Pheasant Chili94
Quail
Pan-Fried Quail with Marsala Sauce
Sally Ulmann’s Quail with Sausage
Roasted Quail with Grapes
Salmon Kill Farm Quail
Mary’s Yemesee Quail
Grilled Quail with Pancetta, White Beans and Sage
Grilled Marinated Quail with
Sherry Red Pepper Sauce
Grilled Quail with Jalapeño Accent
Barbecued Quail Stuffed with Paté
99
100
101
102
103
104
105
106
106
Gamebirds in Red Wine with Italian Sausage
114
Italian Sausage115
Grilled Gamebird Skewers with Zatar Rub
116
Braised Gamebirds117
Roast of Gamebirds118
Gamebird Stir Fry120
Gamebird Enchiladas121
Gamebird Tagine122
Pan-Roasted Gamebirds with Asparagus
and Chanterelles123
Gamebird Marsala124
Hunters Sausage125
Gamebirds with Figs and Port Wine Sauce
126
Spanish Gamebird Burgers 127
Lemon-Saffron Mayonnaise127
Pheasant and Sausage Pizza 128
Pheasant Pizza with Asparagus, Ricotta, and Arugula 129
The Other Stuff
Hors d’oeuvres
Spicy Asian Wild Duck Poppers
132
Arizona Quail Jalapeño Poppers
133
Tangy Duck Nuggets134
Pineapple Pheasant Legs
134
Pheasant Strips135
Mercedes’ Pheasant Bites
135
Gamebird Empanadas 136
Smoked Goose Breast
137
Chinese Style Minced Sharptail Grouse
in Lettuce Cups 138
Duck Breast Carpaccio
139
Hungarian Duck140
Dad’s Duck Appetizer
140
Gamebird Skewers141
Wild Gamebird Paté with Brandy, Bacon, and Herbs 142
Rillettes Goose143
A Few Side Dishes
Arugula and Watercress Salad with
Pomegranate Seeds and Avocado
155
Asian Slaw156
Asparagus, Mint, and Lemon Risotto
157
Green Chili Risotto158
Ed’s Favorite Red Cabbage
159
Carbonara Cervicatti160
Creamy Polenta161
Roasted New Potatoes with Sea Salt and Rosemary
162
Turnip and Carrot Puree
162
Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Sweet Potatoes
and Bacon163
Lock and Ellie’s Vegetable Galette
164
Rustic Dough for Savory Tarts
165
Wild Rice with Butternut Squash,
Leeks, and Corn166
Wild Mushroom Ragout
167
A Smattering of Sweets
Caramelized Clementines169
Warm Curried Fruit170
Blood Orange or Pear Cake
171
Snack Granola172
Best Apple or Mixed Berry Crisp
173
For our Best Friends
Buddy Biscuits175
Bacon Cookies 175
183
Index
A
Appetizer, Dad’s Duck
Apple or Mixed Berry Crisp, Best
Artichoke Hearts, Northup-Style
Ruffed Grouse with Arugula and Watercress Salad with
Pomegranate Seeds and Avocado
Asparagus Risotto with Mint, and Lemon
Asparagus, Pan-Roasted Gamebirds
with Chanterelles and
B
Balsamic Glazed Roasted Chukar
Barbecued Goose Breast with Bacon
Barbecued Lillian Duck or Pheasant Halves Barbecued Sage Hen or Blue Grouse
Barbecued Stuffed Chukar
Blood Orange or Pear Cake
Brandy Horseradish, Pheasant Breast in Brussels Sprouts, Roasted
with Sweet Potatoes and Bacon
Burgers, Duck with Pecan Crust
Burgers, Spanish Gamebird Butter, Fred’s Poo
Butternut Squash, Wild Rice with Leeks, Corn, and
C
142
175
63
157
159
123
46
34
18
67
44
173
81
165
25
127
149
168
Cabbage, Ed’s Favorite Red
161
Cacciatore, Grouse
65
Cake, Blood Orange or Pear
173
Carbonara Cervicatti 162
Carpaccio, Duck Breast
141
Carrot Puree, Turnip and 164
Cassoulet, Pheasant 88
Chili, Pheasant 94
Chimichurri147
Chipotle Barbecue Sauce, Sage Hen
and Chukar Kabobs with 69
Chukar Breast, Herb Marinated Grilled 45
Chukar Puttanesca
47
Chukar, Balsamic Glazed Roasted 46
184
Chukar, Barbecued Stuffed
Chukar, Orange Stuffed
Chutney Mustard Dressing
Chutney, Green Tomato
Chutney, Peach
Cilantro Butter, Duck Breasts with Clementines, Caramelized
Cranberry Sauce
Crisp, Best Apple or Mixed Berry
Cumberland Sauce
Curried Fruit, Warm
Curry, Hun
D
Dog Biscuits, Buddy
Dog Cookies, Bacon Dough, Rustic for Savory Tarts
Dove de Navajoa Oscar
Dove on a Nest
Dove, Sherried
Dressing, Chutney Mustard
Duck Breast Carpaccio
Duck Breasts with Cilantro Butter
Duck Breasts, Pan-Seared with Apple Cider Sauce
Duck Breasts, Spicy
Duck Burgers with Pecan Crust
Duck Nuggets, Tangy
Duck or Pheasant Halves, Barbecued Lillian
Duck Stew
Duck Supreme
Duck with Giant Croutons
Duck Wraps, Doc’s
Duck, Dad’s Appetizer
Duck, Hungarian
Duck, Spicy Asian Poppers
Ducks in Wine Sauce
E
Empanadas, Gamebird Enchiladas, Gamebird Fajitas, Mary Alice’s Sage Hen 44
42
152
154
155
27
171
150
175
153
172
54
177
177
167
108
109
108
152
141
27
20
21
25
134
18
23
19
28
136
142
142
132
18
138
121
70
Fajitas, Pheasant with Pear, Lime and Mint Salsa
Fruit, Warm Curried
G
Gamebird Burgers, Spanish Gamebird Empanadas Gamebird Enchiladas
Gamebird Marsala
Gamebird Skewers
Gamebird Skewers, Grilled with Zatar Rub
Gamebird Stir Fry
Gamebird Tagine
Gamebirds in Red Wine with Italian Sausage
Gamebirds with Figs and Port Wine Sauce
Gamebirds, Braised
Gamebirds, Pan-Roasted
with Asparagus and Chanterelles
Gamebirds, Roast of
Giant Croutons, Duck with Gin and Juniper Berries, Roast Grouse with Goose Breast Roulade
Goose Breast, Barbecued with Bacon
Goose Breast, Smoked
Goose, Bob Steven’s Tender
Goose, Rillettes
Goose, Slow Roasted
Granola, Snack
Green Chili Risotto
Green Tomato Chutney
Grouse Cacciatore
Grouse with Mascarpone and Thyme
Grouse, Marinated Grilled Ruffed or Blue
Grouse, Northup-Style Ruffed
with Artichoke Hearts
Grouse, Roast with Gin and Juniper Berries Grouse, Trespassers Sauté Gumbo, Blackwater
Gumbo, Pheasant and Oyster H
Herb Marinated Grilled Chukar Breast 85
172
127
138
121
124
143
116
120
122
114
126
117
123
118
28
59
35
34
139
34
145
36
174
160
154
65
58
64
63
59
61
24
92
45
Horseradish, Pheasant Breast in Brandy Hun Curry
Hun Ragout
Hungarian Partridge or Sharptail,
Quick and Easy Sautéed Hungarian Partridge, Fried
Hungarian Partridge, Pan-Fried
with Pearl Barley, Peas and Lettuce
I
Italian Sausage, Gamebirds in Red Wine with
J
Jalapeño Accent, Grilled Quail with Jalapeño, Arizona Quail Poppers
Jambalaya, Pheasant 81
54
55
50
53
51
114
106
133
91
K
Kabobs, Sage Hen and Chukar
with Chipotle Barbecue Sauce M
Madeira Sauce
Marinade, No-Fail
Marinade, Sweet Heat
Marsala Sauce, Pan-Fried Quail with Mascarpone and Thyme, Grouse with
Mayonnaise, Lemon-Saffron
Mushroom Ragout, Wild
O
Orange Stuffed Chukar
69
153
149
148
99
58
127
169
42
P
Pan-fried Hungarian Partridge
with Pearl Barley, Peas and Lettuce
Paprikash, Pheasant Partridge Breasts, George’s Sautéed Paté, Gamebird with Brandy, Bacon, and Herbs Peach Chutney
51
79
52
144
155
185
Pheasant and Oyster Gumbo
Pheasant Bites, Mercedes’
Pheasant Braised with Red Cabbage and Chestnuts
Pheasant Breast in Brandy Horseradish
Pheasant Cassoulet
Pheasant Chili
Pheasant Cutlets with Wild Mushrooms
Pheasant Fajitas with Pear, Lime and Mint Salsa
Pheasant Jambalaya
Pheasant Legs, Pineapple
Pheasant Paprikash
Pheasant Piccata, Jean Kahn’s
Pheasant Sautéed with Sage, Bacon and Port Wine
Pheasant Strips
Pheasant Stroganoff
Pheasant, Asian Style with Orange Flavor Pheasant, Braised with Mushrooms and Bacon
Piccata, Jean Kahn’s Pheasant
Pizza, Pheasant and Sausage
Pizza, Pheasant with Asparagus,
Ricotta, and Arugula
Plum Sauce, Cook’s Favorite
Polenta, Creamy
Poppers, Arizona Jalapeño Quail
Poppers, Spicy Asian Duck
Port Wine Gamebird Sauce
Port Wine Sauce, Gamebirds with Figs and Potatoes, Roasted New with Sea Salt and Rosemary
Puree, Turnip and Carrot
Puttanesca, Chukar Q
Quail, Arizona Jalapeño Poppers
Quail, Barbecued Stuffed with Paté
Quail, Grilled Marinated
with Sherry Red Pepper Sauce
Quail, Grilled with Jalapeño Accent
Quail, Grilled with Pancetta,
White Beans and Sage
Quail, Mary’s Yemesee
186
92
135
76
81
88
94
77
85
91
141
79
83
78
135
90
84
82
83
128
129
150
163
133
132
148
126
164
164
47
133
106
105
106
104
103
Quail, Pan-Fried with Marsala Sauce
Quail, Roasted with Grapes
Quail, Sally Ulmann’s with Sausage
Quail, Salmon Kill Farm
R
Ragout, Hun
Red Cabbage and Chestnuts, Pheasant Braised with Rice, Wild with Butternut Squash, Leeks, and Corn
Risotto, Asparagus, Mint, and Lemon
Risotto, Green Chili
Roulade, Goose Breast 99
101
100
102
55
76
168
159
160
35
S
Sage Hen and Chukar Kabobs
with Chipotle Barbecue Sauce Sage Hen Fajitas, Mary Alice’s
Sage Hen or Blue Grouse, Barbecued
Sage Hen Spanish Stew
Salad, Arugula and Watercress
with Pomegranate Seeds and Avocado
Sauce, Apple Cider
Sauce, Blackberry Brandy
Sauce, Chimichurri
Sauce, Chipotle Barbecue
Sauce, Cook’s Favorite Plum
Sauce, Cranberry
Sauce, Cumberland
Sauce, Easy Tomato
Sauce, Madeira
Sauce, Port Wine Gamebird
Sausage, Hunter’s
Sausage, Italian
Sausage, Sally Ulmann’s Quail with Sautéed Hungarian Partridge or
Sharptail, Quick and Easy Sautéed Partridge Breasts, George’s Sharptail Grouse, Chinese Style
Minced in Lettuce Cups Sharptail, Soused
Sherry Red Pepper Sauce,
Grilled Marinated Quail with Slaw, Asian
Soused Sharptail
Stew, Duck
Stew, Sage Hen Spanish Stroganoff, Pheasant Sweet Potatoes, Roasted with
Brussels Sprouts and Bacon
T
Tagine, Gamebird Tomato Sauce, Easy 105
158
60
23
68
90
165
122
89
Turnip and Carrot Puree
164
V
Vegetable Galette, Lock and Ellie’s W
Wild Mushrooms, Pheasant Cutlets with Wild Rice with Butternut Squash, Leeks, and Corn
Wine Sauce, Ducks in Z
Zatar Rub, Grilled Gamebird Skewers with 166
77
168
18
116
69
70
67
68
157
20
152
147
69
150
150
153
89
153
148
125
115
100
50
52
140
60
Cold morning for Brillo. Photo by Jim Davies.
187
Some Useful Kitchen
Measuring Equivalents
Notes
Measures
1/8 cup =
¼ cup =
1/3 cup =
½ cup =
2/3 cup =
¾ cup =
1 cup =
1 tablespoon
2 tablespoons
4 tablespoons
5 tablespoons
+ 1 teaspoon
8 tablespoons
10 tablespoons
+ 2 teaspoons
12 tablespoons
16 tablespoons
=
=
=
=
3 teaspoons
6 teaspoons = 1 fluid ounce
12 teaspoons = 2 fluid ounces
16 teaspoons = 3 fluid ounces
=
=
24 teaspoons = 4 fluid ounces
32 teaspoons = 5 fluid ounces
=
=
36 teaspoons = 6 fluid ounces
48 teaspoons = 8 fluid ounces
Measures
1 pint = 2 cups = 16 fluid ounces
1 quart = 2 pints = 4 cups
1 gallon = 4 quarts = 8 pints
= 32 fluid ounces
= 16 cups
weight
1 pound = 16 ounces
188
189
190
Feeling small in Montana’s big sky. Photo by Whitney
Tilt.
191
Sarah M. Davies and Chace. Photo by Lester A Kish.
About the Author
Sarah M. Davies is an outdoor enthusiast and loves to hunt
and fish with her dogs. When she is not working for natural
resource conservation and Trout Unlimited in Bozeman,
Montana, she may be found cooking and entertaining.
This is her first book.
“In the spirit of Aldo Leopold’s classic writings, it’s important for all of us to remember
where our food comes from – the land. Wise conservation of our natural resources
protects our outdoor heritage, water resources and the food on our tables.”
– Howard Vincent, President & CEO, Pheasants Forever and Quail Forever
“Bringing game home from the field to share with friends and family is a part of all of
our love and enjoyment of the outdoors. Inside these pages you will find some great
ideas for how to do just that.”
– Chris Wood, President & CEO, Trout Unlimited
A portion of all book sales will go back to wildlife conservation through Pheasants Forever and Trout Unlimited.
$19.95
ISBN 978-0-615-86646-8
51995>
9 780615 866468
194
A Bird Hunter’s Table is about cooking, eating, and
sharing friendship. It is also about gundogs, gamebirds,
and getting outside to enjoy the land. A Bird Hunter’s Table
includes over 130 recipes, collectively assembled by friends
and family. In addition to the recipes, the book includes
stories from the field and smattering of natural history.