1. No category

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E 51 2 8 0
COSMETICS
S P R AY T E C H N O L O G Y
MARKETING
Events
25th In-Cosmetics:
Ingredient highlights
in close-up
Legislation
How to view the
‘free from claims’
today and tomorrow
Ingredients
Stem cell cosmetics
with survivors of
the Ice Age
Packaging
Folding cartons:
Creative ideas and a
touch of sustainability
VIP of the Month
Martin Krause
and Dr. Sophie
Viala from
Bayer Material Science on reliable
sun protection with a light feel
Focus: Body care
4 / 2 015
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Tenerife
Spain
eyedeline
™
marine ingredient
An impressive
look in one touch
GREAT VISIBLE IMPROVEMENT IN EYEBAGS
0 days
14 days
28 days
A complete care for a brighter and younger look with just one active ingredient.
eyedeline™ marine ingredient targets the three main problems of the skin
around the eyes at the same time: eyebags, dark circles and wrinkles. A series
of clinical tests at different doses demonstrated its capability to reduce all the
signs of tiredness and aging in the eye contour. An in vivo test showed great
visible results at 4% application already in 14 days, resulting in 8.2% reduction in
volume of the eye bags after 28 days.
EYEDELINE™ and BIOINTEC ™ are owned by The Lubrizol Corporation. © 2015 The Lubrizol Corporation.
COS1504_03_Edi_COS1409_03_Edi_GB 26.03.15 13:03 Seite 1
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EDITORIAL
Seeking new
ingredients?
This year, bustling Barcelona hosts In-Cosmetics on
April 14 – 16, bringing the latest ingredients and
beauty industry trends to life in Spain. Spain, after all,
is Europe’s fourth largest cosmetics and toiletries
market. More than 680 suppliers from over 40 countries will attract approximately 8,000 international personal care professionals.
The event will be accompanied by a comprehensive
educational programme. The Marketing Trends Presentations, for example, with three days of free insights into marketing trends, include round-table sessions. I, myself, will be moderating the international
session, which will
deal with the question of how to overDownloads
come the main chalAdditional information at
lenges for niche
www.cossma.com/qr00001
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start-up cosmetics
Your access codes for April:
brands. This is who
User name: cossma4
will be participating:
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Paola Gugliotta, the
PS: Our QR codes and our tablet-compatible E-paper take
you directly to TV clips, downloads, book tips and more
Co-Founder and Creative Director of Sepai Skincare, a technologically advanced skin care
brand; the designer Lutz Herrmann, the founder of
Lutz Herrmann Design, who launched his own fragrance brand J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin in 2012; and
Helen Miller of Helen Miller Consulting, who, with her
retail experience acquired working with Boots, will
describe what a good distribution strategy looks like.
Are you interested? If yes, I look forward to meeting
you in person at the Marketing Trends Theatre on
April 14th, 3.15 – 4.00 p.m.
The country focus this year is on Turkey and the Middle East and will explore what these regions have to
offer. The Turkish and Middle Eastern personal care
market is the second fastest growing beauty and personal care products region*. Turkey’s personal care
market is currently being fuelled by an improving
economy, which is creating the perception that a
greater degree of personal grooming is required.
Sales across the market now equate to just over
US$4bn.
Consumers in the United Arab Emirates (UAE), meanwhile, have the highest per capita outlay on cosmetic
and beauty products in the region (spending US$156
each on fragrance alone in 2013), while total sales are
expected to top US$30bn by 2018 (up from
US$24bn).
These countries, alongside Qatar, Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman,
Iran and Saudi Arabia – the largest market with sales
worth US$4.1bn in 2013 – are driving interest and investment in the region.
Given the continuing growth of the world’s Muslim population, Halal products are subsequently a growing area
within the cosmetics and personal care industry, not only
in Turkey and the Middle East, but also globally, with the
sector predicted to grow at a CAGR of 13.43% over the
period 2013–2018. This rise can be attributed, in particular, to strong demand from Malaysia and Indonesia –
the two largest Halal beauty markets in the world.
A special pavilion will play host to ingredients manufacturers from these markets. A Product Trail, focused on
Turkey and the Middle East, will also highlight unique
products and projects from, or inspired by, the region.
Of course, there is plenty more to explore … Our preview
from page 27 gives you a first impression of what ingredients will be launched at the show.
And if you find the salon business intriguing as well, why
don’t you join us for the 5th German Cosmetology Congress, which takes place during the BEAUTY FORUM
LEIPZIG on April 25th? I look forward to seeing you!
* Euromonitor
Sincerely yours
Angelika Meiss
Senior editor, COSSMA
Follow us on:
www.linkedin.com/in/cossma
www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine
www.facebook.com/cossmamagazin
www.youtube.de/cossmatv
COSSMA 4 I 2015
3
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Contents
10 I New film-forming
polymer for cost-effective
ethanol-based suncare
products
3
Editorial
쮿
NEWS
8
Markets + Profiles
쮿
FOCUS
10
Body care
a Martin Krause and Dr. Sophie Viala,
Bayer Material Science:
Reliable protection with a light feel
12
Dr. Alexander Thiemann, Jessica Scholze and
Manuela Salmina-Petersen, Dr. Straetmans:
A naturally-derived silicone replacement
16
Emmanuelle Moeglin, Mintel:
International launches
쮿
18
MARKETING
Star of the Month:
The Twin-Pack Bottle
27
a In-Cosmetics 2015:
Ingredient highlights in close-up
36
12
I Natural
conditioner alternative to silicones
a Dr. Rainer Wohlfart, Kneipp:
‘Free from claims’:
Meaningful or meaningless?
쮿
PRODUCTION
38
a Beata Hurst, Mibelle Biochemistry:
The next generation of stem cell cosmetics –
Ice Age cosmetics with Ice Age survivors
42
Dr. Dagmar Kleefeld, Merck:
Inspiring facts and ideas for trend formulations
45
46
28 I Curtain
up for some
major ingredient
highlights at
this year’s
In-Cosmetics
38 I Stem cell
cosmetics with
survivors of the
Ice Age
New Ingredients
PCD and ADF 2015:
New approaches to packaging
48
a Folding cartons:
Combining creativity with sustainability
50
Packaging News
쮿
SERVICES
6
Download List
56
Essential Oils: Price list
58
Formulations: Masks + more
59
Events Diary
60
Suppliers’ Guide
64
International B2B Exchange
65
Advertisers’ Index
65
Masthead Page
66
Trend statement by Guylaine Le Loarer,
Börlind
66
Preview
a Leading articles
Front cover picture: Monticello, Shutterstock.com
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COS1504_06_Download 26.03.15 13:04 Seite 6
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SERVICES
DOWNLOAD
Free Downloads for Subscribers
www.cossma.com/download
COSSMA Download-Tip in April
Epigenetics: A hot topic in skin care
... explains why the French market for natural cosmetics
is special.
photo: Leigh Prather, Shutterstock.com
Click through our Web TV clips:
www.cossma.com/tv
Epigenetics, a science of heritable biological adaptation that has become a
hot topic for biological research and drug discovery over the past ten years, is
now becoming the new trend in skin care. Dr. Daniel Cortazar, Business Development Manager at Biolytix, gives details in
his article. COSSMA
subscribers can download further background information.
Will active ingredients in
the future help to induce
a “reversion” of senescent epigenetic patterns?
Top-Downloads for April
• Market Data:
… describes the future trends her agency has identified
for cosmetics.
Cosmetics Market Mainland
China
• Literature References:
photo: Nikolai Sorohin, Fotalia.de
Fragrances –
Creation & Creativity
• Background:
EU Environmental Label
Rinse Off Products
• Formulation:
Shower Gel with Olive Oil
(Clariant)
... informs about the development of the German market
for personal care in 2014.
Downloads
… talks about the consumer trend towards multi-functional
products
6
COSSMA 4I 2015
Additional information at
www.cossma.com/download
or you can just scan
the QR code!
Your access codes
for April:
User name: cossma4
Password: body
Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA
web site we post lots of additional information
elated to the topics covered in the magazine.
You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items
to extend your knowledge and understanding:
more information on the ingredients and
finished products that we cover, market data and
statistics, supplier listings, literature references,
scientific articles, product formulations and useful
base formulations. Take a look right now, at
www.cossma.com/download
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Add more life to body wash with Lamesoft® OD
Our premium body wash solution provides a luxuriously caring, spa-like
skin cleansing experience every day — and not just for UK women.
Lamesoft® OD — another Care Creations product inspired by life.
carecreations.basf.com
Finding derived from a representative TNS market survey.
COS1504_08_People_GB_COS0701_08_News_D 26.03.15 13:05 Seite 8
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NEWS
MARKETS + PROFILES
Brookfield:
Nilay Shah
Dr. Straetmans:
Timm Zabel and …
… Kristin Köhler
Faber-Castell:
Dr. Christina Zech
L’Oréal Germany: Klemens Gschwandtner
Timm Zabel is now responsible
for the Asian market. Kristin
Köhler will focus on the Scandinavian and Eastern European
markets. Before this she worked
in the export division of cosmetic
raw materials Worlée.
Oliveda:
Christine Wild
People
Brookfield I Nilay Shah has
been appointed to the new position of International Sales and
Marketing Manager for laboratory products and services. Brookfield Engineering offers services
in the field of viscosity measurement/control of liquids and softsolid fluids.
www.brookfieldengineering.com
Dr. Straetmans I Dr. Straetmans has strengthened its sales
team with two new employees.
Faber-Castell Cosmetics I
Dr. Christina Zech, with her
broad business experience in the
cosmetics industry, has been appointed as Managing Director.
Most recently, she served as Vice
President of Global Sales for
Mana Products and Vice President of Sales and R&D for Geka.
www.fc-cosmetics.com
L’Oréal Germany I With
Klemens Gschwandtner having
been appointed to Director
Country Operations, he now
heads the Supply Chain Management of all business units, as well
as the urchasing division of Germany’s L’Oréal Group. He will
also be coordinating the supply
chain management in Austria
and Switzerland.
www.loreal.de
Lonza I Vito Cataldo has been
promoted to the role of Marketing Manager for its Personal
Care business in North America.
He will coordinate all North
American commercial marketing
Prämierte
Wirkstoffe
Know How
Hitverdächtig:
Unsere Neuheiten in
2015.
Sehenswert:
Besuchen Sie uns
auf der in-cosmetics
Stand A40.
www.greentechgmbh.de
Nachhaltigkeit
DANDRILYS®
Anti Schuppen
Innovationspreis von
Frost & Sullivan.
www.dr-straetmans.de
Patente
Preisgekrönt:
Quadpack:
Steve Haley
Lonza:
Vito Cataldo
COS1504_08_People_GB_COS0701_08_News_D 26.03.15 13:05 Seite 9
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MARKETS + PROFILES
NEWS
activities related to Personal
Care, including Application Technology, Regulation, Manufacturing and Sales Support.
www.lonza.com
Oliveda I In the newly created
position of Head of Marketing &
Sales, Christine Wild will be supporting Oliveda Switzerland.
She will be responsible for national and international sales,
as well as for coordinating all
marketing activities. Before this
she worked for Dr. Babor and
was head of international sales
at Dr. Hauschka.
BEAUY FORUM MUNICH I On October 17th – 18th 2015 Messe München will host the 30th
edition of BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH, – Europe‘s most important autumn exhibition for beauty professionals. The key trade show sectors include skin care, apparative cosmetics, colour cosmetics, nail
design and nail art, foot care, podology, medical beauty and anti-ageing, as well as special zones
featuring the topics Natural Cosmetics and Wellness & Spa. Please, note: Admission to the exhibition
is free of charge for foreign visitors
www.beauty-fairs.de/muenchen
Save the date!
Dates:
Location:
Opening times:
Saturday:
Sunday:
Organiser:
Information at:
17th – 18th of October 2015
Messe München International, Munich/Germany
9.00h – 18.00h
9.00h – 17.00h
Health and Beauty Germany
www.beauty-fairs.de/munich
photo: Health and Beauty Germany
30th Anniversary for BEAUTY FORUM MUNCH
Don’t miss the 30th edition of
BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH in October
www.oliveda.com
Quadpack I Steve Haley,
who has experience in manufacturing, supply chain and sales,
has joined Quadpack Group as
Group Sales Director. He started
his career as a tool-maker for the
cosmetic sector, manufacturing
injection mould tools for brands
such as Avon, Max Factor, Procter & Gamble and Revlon. More
recently, Steve has taken on senior commercial roles in the packaging industry for companies
such as RPC Bramlage.
Not to be missed – exclusive B2B Matchmaking Event
BEAUTY FORUM connect I For the anniversary edition of BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH you are
once again invited to the Matchmaking Event BEAUTY FORUM connect. BEAUTY FORUM connect is an
online platform for effective B2B networking and matchmaking. If you are looking for an efficient way of
finding new business contacts, you will find this B2B networking tool BEAUTY FORUM connect very useful. Once you have registered for free (if you are one of BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH’S exhibitors) and completed your company profile, you can be found by companies looking for ways to cooperate with your business or you can search for potential distributors or other business partners yourself. After having established a first contact online, you can
schedule live meetings in a special area at this year’s BEAUTY
FORUM MUNICH. If this is what you are looking for, please feel free
to register right now for this convenient matchmaking service at
Online platform for new business contacts
www.connect.beauty-forum.com.
www.quadpack.com
OxyForce® Cellular Active gives your skin the oxygen it needs to look its best.
Your skin needs oxygen to stay healthy. That’s why we developed
OxyForce® Cellular Active. OxyForce is specially designed to
deliver nourishing molecular oxygen to the epidermal layers to
support collagen production, reduce the appearance of wrinkle
depth and smooth out blemishes. Add a blast of oxygen to your
skin care product formulation, it’s the perfect compliment to
energize your claims. Contact us or visit our website to see our
in vivo study or to obtain a sample.
tell me more
airproducts.com/oxyforce
©2015 Air Products and Chemicals, Inc.
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FOCUS: BODY CARE INGREDIENTS
SUN CARE
Reliable protection
with a light feel
Consumers require durable and long-lasting sunscreen products that are neither
tacky nor sticky
I
n recent years, transparent sun
products such as alcoholic sun
sprays or even sun gels have become
increasingly popular with consumers,
especially children and men. In comparison to traditional emulsions, they
are particularly easy to spread on the
skin and leave a nearly imperceptible
film. The stickiness of traditional sunscreen products often assessed by consumers is especially low in this application form.
Downloads
photo: Valentyn Volkov, Shutterstock.com
Additional information can be found
at www.cossma.com/qr00004
or you can just scan the QR code!
Your access codes for April:
User name: cossma4
Password: body
Martin Krause and Sophie Viala, from Bayer Material Science,
show that the new film-forming polymer Baycusan C 2000 helps
to create cost-effective ethanol-based sunscreen products –
with broad spectrum protection and a high SPF – that are durable
and long-lasting without being tacky or sticky.
10
COSSMA 4I 2015
However, it is much harder to
achieve a high or very high sun protection factor (SPF) within alcoholic transparent sun sprays or gels, as UV-absorbing pigments such as titanium
dioxide are not suitable for these application forms. In addition to this, it is
quite challenging to achieve long-lasting water-resistance and rub-off protection for transparent sun care products. Both achieving high SPF and delivering water resistance in the popular
product forms, including alcoholbased aerosol sprays and non-aerosol
pump sprays, have created new challenges for formulating chemists. Formulators are also striving to enhance
product performance without increasing the level of active ingredients in
the final product.
With Baycusan C 2000 (INCI name
Polyurethane-64), Bayer Material Science has developed a new film forming
polymer with superior aesthetics that
has been specifically designed for use
COS1504_10_Bayer_COS1306_10_DSM_GB 26.03.15 13:06 Seite 11
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INGREDIENTS
FOCUS: BODY CARE
such as bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT) and Benzophenone-3.
in vivo SPF
Proven water resistance
withour film former
with 2 wt.% active
Baycusan C 2000
fig. 1: In vivo SPF data for the formulations with and without Baycusan C 2000
(1) In vivo SPF according ISO 24444: 2010, 5 panelists
(2) In vivo SPF according FDA, 5 panelists
OCR: Octocrylene, BMDBM: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, BEMT: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazone,
HMS: Homosalate, BP3: Benzophenone-3
in alcohol-based systems and is particularly effective in sun care products,
therefore offering manufacturers high
formulation versatility. As it only has a
small impact on formulation viscosity,
it can be used in a wide range of product formats, especially in low viscous
sunscreen sprays – in contrast to traditional acrylate based film formers, it
can also be formulated into very high
oil phase formulations. The new filmforming polymer offers good compatibility with sunscreen actives and a high
ease of use in formulation and production. Supplied as a low-viscosity,
ethanolic solution (40% solids), it requires no heat or neutralization during
the formulation process.
Evaluating product
performance
VA/Buty Maleate/
Isobornyl Acrylate
Copolymer
fig. 2: In-vivo water resistance data
Advanced film-forming technology,
as provided by the new film-forming
polymer Baycusan C 2000, helps to create cost-effective ethanol-based products that meet both performance requirements and consumer preferences.
Thus, formulators can create broadspectrum, high-SPF products that are
durable and long-lasting without being
tacky or sticky.
Additional product information, as well as the authors’
biographies, can be found on the Internet –
see Internet panel
Ethanol-based sunscreen products – ranging from continuous sprays to pump sprays and
gels – offer today’s consumer high performance and convenience in appealing product
forms while presenting new formulation challenges. They need to be able to be applied
easily and uniformly, withstand water immersion, resist rub-off, and feature pleasing,
non-tacky aesthetic properties.
Static SPF
Acrylates/
Octylacrylamide …
New polymer technology
solves formulation challenges
What makes sunscreen products popular?
in vivo SPF
The performance of the polyurethane solution, Baycusan C 2000,
was evaluated along with currently
available film-forming polymers. Invivo SPF and water-resistance were
measured in ethanolic sun spray formulations.
In-vivo SPF test results in Figure 1
demonstrate that the new film-forming
polymer, at 2 wt. % active content, per-
forms very well in a sunscreen spray
formulation. Although the film-forming polymer itself does not contain any
UV-absorbing components, adding it
to a formulation can significantly increase the sun protection factor .The
SPF values obtained are higher than
those reached by the blank formulation (without film-forming polymer) or
provided by the currently used filmforming polymers at the same usage
concentration.
Similar to Baycusan C 1000 (filmforming polymer for emulsion-based
sunscreen products, INCI: Polyurethane-34), the new film-forming polymer is a selective SPF booster. In-vitro
results confirmed that its selective
SPF-boosting effect occurs in combination with UV filters that have at least
two aromatic groups such as the UVB
filters Octocrylene and Ethylhexyl Triazone, and with broadband UV filters,
Sunscreens were evaluated for water resistance and this was conducted
in accordance with guidelines established in December 2005 by Colipa,
the European Cosmetics Association
(today Cosmetics Europe) on 10 panelists. The results of these tests, in Figure 2, indicate that the polymer films
maintain integrity after water exposure
and allow for the formulation of
durable and long-lasting products with
extremely pleasant and light skin feel.
The SPF values obtained (for the sunscreen formulation with 2 wt. % active
content of the new film-forming polymer), before and after, immersion are
higher than those provided by currently used film-forming polymers at the
same usage concentration.
Baycusan
C 2000
SPF after 2*20 min.
immersion
Martin Krause
Business Development Manager EMEA/LATAM –
Cosmetics Raw Materials
Dr. Sophie Viala
Global Head Business Development –
Cosmetics Raw Materials
Bayer Material Science, Leverkusen, Germany
[email protected]
[email protected]
www.bayercosmetics.com
COSSMA 4 I 2015
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FOCUS: BODY CARE INGREDIENTS
Hair Care
A naturally-derived
silicone replacement
photo: Valua Vitaly, Shutterstock.com
The ester oil Dermofeel Sensolv is a natural conditioner alternative
to silicones, and is compatible with a large variety of hair care
formulations. Its effective and reversible hydrophobic interaction
with the hair surface – even in the absence of cationic conditioners
– improves combing forces, static effects, curl retentions and the
sensorial profile of hair.
The curl retention properties were
comparable with a benchmark silicone
E
xposure to environmental stress
and cosmetic treatments, such
as bleaching or colouring can
damage the hair severely. One outcome is that the protective lipid layer is
removed, exposing the underlying cuticle cells. Without the lipid layer, the
hair is prone to damage and the otherwise smooth cuticle layer becomes
rough with cells in an upright position.
A visible consequence is dry and dull
hair, which is difficult to comb and susceptible to humidity uptake and static
flyaway effects.
Silicones in hair care
products
Cosmetic hair care products are
supposed to straighten the cuticle cell
12
COSSMA 4I 2015
layer and to cover the hair with a
lipophilic replacement. This is usually
achieved with the help of silicones
alone or in combination with cationic
conditioners, such as Polyquaternium,
PCA Glyceryl Oleate. These efficiently
create a non-greasy film on the hair
surface. The silicone film covers hair
damage and eliminates most of the
mentioned negative effects. Especially
due to their silky touch, silicones are
considered the benchmark in hair care.
On the downside, silicones are
banned from natural and organic cosmetics (e.g. Cosmos) because of the
environmental hazardous chlorinated
hydrocarbons they are made of and the
questions arising concerning their bioaccumulative properties. Moreover,
some silicones are known to build-up
multiple layers on the hair, thereby
making it difficult to style.
Oils as natural alternatives
Natural alternatives, in the form of
complex plant oils, such as Argan oil,
are already well-established in a large
variety of emulsion-based conditioner
formulations. However, in surfactantbased shampoos even small amounts
of these oils make formulations unstable and cause them to visibly separate.
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Password: body
Implementing such oils, as conditioners in these formulations at very low
concentrations, is therefore more likely the result of clever marketing rather
than of technical meaningfulness. So
for any oil to be interesting for hair
care, the stable integration into different kind of formulations is a basic
requirement.
New solution for hair care
Dermofeel Sensolv is a polar oil
with the INCI name Isoamyl Laurate. It
combines the performance and the
sensorial sensation of silicones with
the ecological compatibility of more
complex plant oils. In addition, and
unlike Argan oil for example, it can be
incorporated in performance-relevant
concentrations and into clear surfactant-based hair care formulations
(optimum 0.5–1%). The exact maximum concentrations thereby depend
on the composition and the amount of
surfactants used in the formulation.
This oil is a 100% naturally-derived
basic ester oil and is well established
as a silicone alternative in natural and
conventional skin care products. It is
colourless, low viscous and its high
spreadability improves the sensorial
feeling and texture of cosmetic formulations. It offers good skin compatibility and, due to its biodegradability and
low aquatic toxicity, it can be considered as environmentally friendly.
Incorporating oils into surfactantbased formulations may slightly decrease the viscosity, which then needs
to be adjusted by thickening agents. 쑺
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Bayer MaterialScience AG, 51368 Leverkusen, Germany · MS00070323
The sun makes the
world blossom and look great.
Let’s keep it that way.
With our Baycusan® C 2000
Turn reliable protection into a sensory pleasure!
Baycusan® C 2000: the new, innovative ingredient
for your light-transparent sun care formulations.
www.baycusan.com
Visit us at
- 16 April
In Barcelona | 14
6
Booth G50 | Hall
Beauty Made Possible.
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FOCUS: BODY CARE INGREDIENTS
photos: Dr. Straetmans
mofeel Sensolv caused the combing
force in wet hair to be reduced by up
to 32%. This is comparable to higher
concentrations of silicone, e.g. 3%
Amodimethicone, causing a reduction
of up to 26%. In combination with 0.3%
of the cationic conditioner PQ-10 in a
shampoo formulation, 0.75% of the ester oil helped to reduce the wet combing force by up to 49% in contrast to the
39% reduction with 1% Amodimethicone.
In contrast, a shampoo with 1% Argan oil led to a distinctly lower reduction of only 15% of the combing force.
Parts of the Argan oil were, most
likely, washed away by the surfactants
in the shampoo formulation.
This assumption about Argan oil
was confirmed in an emulsion-based
rinse-off conditioner experiment. The
wet combing force of hair treated with
a Dermofeel Sensolv rinse-off conditioner was weakened less after a water
rinse for 45 seconds, and measurably
lower than an Argan oil conditioner
Dermofeel Sensolv
Placebo
fig. 1: Foam of our natural surfactant-based formulation L023-2.0 with and without
1% Dermofeel Sensolv
Depending on the surfactants used,
this ester oil causes a similar or even
less severe viscosity decrease in
comparison with silicones (Amodimethicone). However, formulations
containing this oil – up to a certain
concentration – can be successfully
thickened with a variety of conventional and natural thickening agents.
the type of surfactant used. In general,
the lower the surfactant amount and
cleansing performance of a formulation, the more the combing force is
reduced.
In the Ethersulfate/Betaine-based
shampoo formulation L045-30ff an optimum concentration of 0.75% Der-
Caring effect
The non-greasy, soft and silky silicone-like sensation of Dermofeel Sensolv, while shampooing, improves
steadily with increasing concentrations. Already present on the hands
while washing, the sensation remains
on the hair afterwards. The foam of
shampoos containing this ester oil is
creamy and fine pored (fig. 1). With
higher concentrations the creaminess
of the foam even improves.
Placebo
Reduced combing force
The ester oil efficiently covers the
hair surface, making it smooth and
easy to comb. The extent of the reduction of the combing force depends on
2% Dermofeel
Sensolv
2% Dimethicone
(100cst)
2%Argan oil
15 sec water rinse
45 sec water rinse
fig. 2: Average combing forces in gram of hair tresses treated with our natural rinse-off
conditioner L045-29ff and finished with a subsequent water rinse for 15 or 45 seconds
…cared for and healthy!
Your ideas, our know-how!
www.bb-kalkar.de
Your competent manufacturer for cosmetics & medical devices!
Full-Service · Development · Documentation · Production · Fill-up
Tubes · Bottles · Tins · Jars · Sachets · Single-Pack Wet Wipes
COS1504_12_Stratemans_COS1306_10_DSM_GB 26.03.15 13:07 Seite 15
www.cossma.com
FOCUS: BODY CARE
INGREDIENTS
Light
Placebo
Hair Shadow
Argan oil
Observer
Silicone
Dermofeel
Sensolv
fig. 3: Shadow mapping of hair tresses combed 25 times after a treatment with the
leave-on conditioner L045-34ff. The areas of the hair tresses’ shadows are shown
and even one containing silicone oil
(Dimethicone, 100cst) (fig. 2).
Build-up and curl retention
Our ester oil binds to the hair surface, even in the presence of high
amounts of surfactants in a formulation. At the same time, it can be easily
and entirely removed from the hair.
This means, unlike some silicone oils
or cationic surfactants, it doesn’t build
up unwanted layers on the hair surface
after repeated applications.
This was demonstrated in an experiment of alternating washing/conditioning steps. In this experiment, the
curl retention performance of our ester
oil remained the same, no matter how
many times the steps were repeated.
In contrast, the curl retention results
of the silicone (Amodimethicone,
cetrimonium chloride, trideceth-12)
changed over time during repeated
washing/conditioning, indicating a silicone build-up effect. Argan oil in the
rinse-off conditioner had no measurable effect on the curl retention. This
was probably caused by the loss of
Argan oil in the process of washing.
In a direct comparison, the performance of our ester oil and the silicone
Amodimethicone in a leave-on conditioner L045-34ff, in terms of curl retention, revealed no measurable differences.
Protection against static
electric charge
Hair without the protection of the
lipid layer tends to be rough on the
surface. Adjacent hairs rub against
each other and produce a static electric
charge. Our ester oil protects the hair
against this static flyaway effect. Shadow mapping experiments revealed that
a leave-on conditioner, formulated
with this oil, reduced the volume of
flyaway hair markedly in contrast to a
placebo conditioner or a conditioner
including Argan oil. In comparison
with the benchmark silicone Amodimethicone, the flyaway effect was
similar to our ester oil (fig. 3).
Broad variety of natural
hair care formulations
In our lab, a variety of stable natural
and conventional conditioner and
shampoo formulations containing this
ester oil were developed, e.g. a Caring
Shampoo for damaged Hair, Caring
Hair Milk – leave on, Natural Hair Butter,
Natural soft touch Handsoap, Luxury
Shower Gel, Conditioning Lotion for
stressed Hair.
A selection of the mentioned formulations, as well as
additional information, can be found on the Internet –
see Internet panel
Dr. Alexander Thiemann
Manager Scientific Affairs
Jessica Scholze
Formulation and Technology
Dipl.-Ing. Manuela Salmina-Petersen
Head of Formulation and Technology
Dr. Straetmans, Hamburg, Germany
[email protected]
www.dr-straetmans.de
COS1504_16_Mintel_COS1409_18_Mintel_D 26.03.15 13:08 Seite 16
www.cossma.com
FOCUS: BODY CARE
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
International launches
photos: Mintel
This month, Emmanuelle Moeglin, Global Fragrance and Colour
Cosmetics Analyst at Mintel, presents a selection of innovative
body care products.
J
ergens body cream BB Cuerpo
Crema Corporal Perfeccionadora
The formulation of Jergens‘ bb
body cream is said to automatically adjust to the skin tone
The AromaWorks’ exfoliator contains
Himalayan
sea salts with
84 trace
minerals to
detoxify
The Body Shop’s body
butter is enriched with
Community Fair Trade
argan oil from Morocco
Vaseline‘s body and face
lotion for men contains microdroplets of vaseline jelly
is said to instantly improve and
gradually perfect skin within five days,
offering the following five benefits: hydrate and soften; brighten and illuminate; even out skin tone; visibly firm
the skin; and reduce the appearance of
imperfections. Its formulation is said
to automatically adjust to the skin
tone.
The AromaWorks range of products
is designed to invigorate tired minds.
The products are designed to improve
the appearance of skin, reduce signs of
ageing and tackle various skin ailments, such as eczema, psoriasis and
rosacea. The BioActive Nourish Formula line includes a Body Brilliance Exfoliate with moisturising and skin-soothing properties. Free from synthetic ingredients, the anti-ageing product –
with its nourishing fragrance – is enriched with Himalayan sea salts which
contain 84 trace minerals to detoxify
and encourage nutrient absorption at a
cellular level; fine sea salts to exfoliate;
mango butter, sandalwood, anti-inflammatory ingredients such as Roman chamomile, helichrysium and
may change lavender spike, bergamot,
rosewood and lavender to help acne;
and neroli to stimulate cell renewal.
The Body Shop’s argan oil for body
and hair Huile d’Argan Sauvage Huile
Solide Miraculeuse pour le Corps &
Cheveux is a multi-tasking moisturiser
Guerlain‘s shaping
serum to reduce the appearance of cellulite
Tarte‘s oil contains sustainably
collected passion fruit rich
in fatty acids and vitamins
16
COSSMA 4 I 2015
for extra dry skin and hair, which is designed to hydrate and provide instant
radiance. It is enriched with Community Fair Trade argan oil from Morocco
and shea butter. The body butter
Beurre Corporel (also with argan oil
from Morocco) is said to provide dry
skin with 24-hour hydration and nourishment.
The relaunched non-greasy Vaseline
Men Fast Absorbing Body & Face Lotion‘s new formulation contains micro-
droplets of vaseline jelly that are absorbed deeply into the skin whilst
moisturizing it from within. The prod-
uct has been proven to keep dry skin
healed for three weeks.
The range of intensive skin care
products Mixa Intensif Peaux Sèches
Peaux Mates à Foncées is adapted to
the needs of darker skin tones. The
products are formulated with shea,
coconut and cocoa butters, and are
claimed to restore hydration and glow.
Downloads
Additional information can be found
at www.cossma.com/qr00006
or you can just scan the QR code!
Your access codes for April:
User name: cossma4
Password: body
The hypoallergenic body lotion Lait
Corps Nutritif Satinant instantly nourishes and softens the skin with its
lightweight, non-greasy, non-sticky
formula.
Guerlain L’Institut 68 ChampsÉlysées range of body care with their
luxurious textures, features the shaping serum Concentré Affinant Galbe
Parfait, designed to sculpt the silhouette and reduce the appearance of cellulite. The non-sticky and quickly absorbed product features a fragrance
that is harmonised around notes of
delicate orange blossom, with refreshing lemon and bergamot.
The non-greasy Tarte Maracuja Oil
enriched with vitamin C is said to
moisturise, improve the skin’s texture
and reduce the look of wrinkles. It can
also be used to help soften cuticles,
tame fly aways, split ends on hair, and
hydrate dry skin and rough patches.
The passion fruit used for its fatty acids
and vitamins has been sustainably
collected.
Additional information can be found on the Internet –
see Internet panel
Emmanuelle Moeglin
Global Fragrance and Colour
Cosmetics Analyst, Mintel
London, England
www.mintel.com
COS1504_Merck_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 18.03.15 12:53 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
www.merck-performance-materials.com
RonaCare® SereneShield
Regulates oily skin & rebalances skin’s microflora
COS1504_18_Star_COS1409_24_Star_D 26.03.15 13:08 Seite 18
www.cossma.com
MARKETING
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Star
Smart product combinations
of the Month
The Twin-Pack Bottle
In recent years double-ended packaging has been hitting the scene quite often.
However, they have mainly popped up in the field of colour cosmetics. So there
have been quite a few double-ended mascara, eyeliner and lip products. Interestingly enough, the idea of a smart product combination, up until now, has not yet
been translated into body care. Corpack has now closed this packaging gap with
their Twin-Pack Bottle and, therefore, this deserves our Star of the Month.
T
photo: Corpack
win-Pack designed by Corpack is
a double-container unit for new
product combinations. With the
help of this packaging concept, two dif-
ferent products can be combined in
one unit while allowing for independent dispensing. Whether shampoo and
conditioner; sun care product and after-sun; or shower gel and peeling,
there are countless product combinations and areas of application.
Some of the obvious two-in-one advantages for consumers include the
fact that this packaging is a space-saving solution in the bathroom or while
travelling. In addition, the convenience
of this product makes it so much easiTwo different products are combined
in one unit, while allowing for
independent dispensing
er to follow a multi-step beauty routine. In retail, reduced shelf-space at
point-of-sale is always an appealing
concept. Furthermore, the packaging is
ideal for cross-promotions and enhances customer loyalty due to multiple product offerings.
An added benefit is that the products are measured in millilitres, and
can therefore be proportionately adjusted as needed. So there is no need
to have a proportion of 50/50 when the
type of product combination might require a 40/60 ratio. The first completed
version is 150ml/150ml.
The shape of the bottle can be
adapted to every brand or design, allowing the use of existing cap and/or
pump designs if desired. New forms
and volumes – even asymmetrical
ones – are planned in the near future.
The packaging can be creatively customized through graphic or special
AM
surface treatments.
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zellaerosol
since 50 Years specialised in the
Development – Manufacture – Filling – Packing of
Aerosols and Liquid Products
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왘 Licenced for pharmaceutical manufacturing operations in accordance with §13 of the german
drug act for human and veterinary medication
왘 Production and filling of pharmaceutical, medical,
cosmetic, household and technical products in
accordance with prevailing ATEX directive
왘 Planning, execution and documentation of clientexclusive development projects
왘 Consultancy and collaboration with clients in
compiling product data as required for the
Cosmetics Directive, Technical Files, and for
pharmaceutical approvals
왘 Full service management and completion of client
contracts from A to Z.
왘 . . . and lots more!
zellaerosol
Zellaerosol GmbH
Wiesenstraße 13
D-79669 Zell im Wiesental
Tel.: ++49 (0)7625/92 53 0
Fax.: ++49 (0)7625/92 53 14
M&H Plastics: New 15ml Vogue
adds opportunity to the range
M&H Plastics, part of the RPC Group of companies,
has added a new 15ml Vogue bottle (HDPE, ref: 5A82)
to an extensive range from 25ml through to 750ml.
This enables greater opportunity for trialling and promoting new products, creating opportunity in the hotel
and travel market and complementing existing ranges.
The Vogue and its complementary closure (8288) can
be colourmatched, decorated or labelled to match
your existing portfolio. A PET range is also available.
and ner
ng part
o
r
e
t
a s eliabl
r
[email protected]
www.zellaerosol.de
Further Information: www.mhplastics.com
[email protected] phone +44 (0) 1502 715518
COS1504_EH_Impag_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 18.03.15 12:47 Seite 1
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EXHIBITION
Neue Roh- und Wirkstoffe zur in-cosmetics
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!
COS1504_EH_Impag_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 18.03.15 12:47 Seite 2
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EPIGENIST™
Ein Extrakt aus der afrikanischen Bambara-Nuss verjüngt die Epidermis
Die gesunde, junge Epidermis ist kompakt und dick, zudem wird
sie gut mit Nervenimpulsen versorgt. Mit zunehmendem Alter
nimmt diese neuronale Versorgung ab, wodurch eine Abnahme der Epidermisdicke verursacht wird, wie in neuesten Untersuchungen gezeigt werden konnte. Mit Epigenist™ wurde ein
Wirkstoff entdeckt, der in der Lage ist, die Nervenfasern zu regenerieren, also die Neuritogenese in der Epidermis zu stimulieren. Durch diese bessere Versorgung leben die Zellen in der
Epidermis länger, die Epidermis ist dicker (Abb. 2) und besser
organisiert und die Zellteilungsrate erhöht. Mit Epigenist™
erhält die Epidermis ihre Jugendlichkeit zurück.
EPIGENIST™ bewirkt in einem reinnervierten Hautmodell und
in einer klinischen Studie eine deutliche Zunahme der
epidermalen Dicke. In vitro wurde die Visualisierung der lebenden Zellen der Epidermis mittels Desmoplakin-1-Immunmarkierung (grüne Färbung) durchgeführt. In vivo erfolgte die
Messung der Epidermis mittels konfokaler Mikroskopie.
Abb. 1: Reinnerviertes Haut- Abb. 2: Reinnerviertes Hautmodell ohne die Zugabe von modell +0,025% EPIGENIST™.
EPIGENIST™.
Vor der Behandlung
Nach der Behandlung
Abb. 3: Klinische Studie mit 20 Probanden, die 0,5% EPIGENIST™
zweimal täglich im Gesichtsbereich anwendeten.
In einer klinischen Studie mit 20 weiblichen Probanden wurde eine Emulsion mit 0,5% Epigenist™ zweimal täglich über 8
Wochen im Gesichtsbereich versus eine Placeboformulierung
angewendet. Es zeigte sich eine 10%ige Zunahme der Epidermisdicke. Die Haut war messbar glatter und strahlender.
EPIGENIST™
INCI: Voandzeia Subterranea Seed Extract, Maltodextrin
Aussehen: Weißes bis hellbeiges Pulver
Einsatzkonzentration: 0,5%
Konservierung: Keine
Einarbeitung: In Wasser lösen
EPIGENIST™ ist eine Handelsmarke von BASF Care Creations
LOX-AGE™
Ein wässriger Extrakt aus den Blättern des Chicorée für eine perfekte, jugendliche Haut
Das neu entdeckte Schlüsselprotein LOX (Lysyloxidase) ist für
die Haut von hoher Wichtigkeit. Das multifunktionale Protein
LOX besitzt ein sehr breites Wirkungsspektrum und ist deshalb
der bekannten Anti-Aging-Substanz Retinol sehr ähnlich. Nachdem die Hautzellen LOX freigesetzt haben, spaltet sich das Protein in zwei wirksame Substanzen, das aktive Enzym LOX und
ein Propeptid. Dadurch ist das Protein zweifach wirksam. Die
katalytische Enzymdomäne ist in der tieferen Hautschicht, der
Dermis, aktiv, während die Propeptiddomäne bei den epidermalen Differenzierungsprozessen eine wichtige Rolle spielt.
In einer klinischen Studie applizierten 32 Frauen 2% LOX-AGE™
zweimal täglich über 8 Wochen im Gesichtsbereich. In einer
zweiten Gruppe wendeten 30 Probandinnen 0,07% Retinol einmal täglich über 8 Wochen im Gesicht an. Es zeigten sich nach
der Anwendung von 2% LOX-AGE™ eine Glättung der Falten,
eine verringerte Sichtbarkeit der Hautporen sowie eine
verbesserte Hautelastizität. Dabei war LOX-AGE™ genauso
effektiv wie Retinol. Mehr als 90% der Probanden nahmen einen
nährenden und feuchtigkeitsspendenden Effekt wahr.
Mit zunehmendem Alter ist die Haut nicht mehr in der Lage, dieses bedeutende Enyzm in großen Mengen zu bilden. Mit dem
pflanzlichen Wirkstoff LOX-AGE™ wird die Bildung dieses wichtigen Schlüsselproteins wieder angeregt.
LOX-AGE™
INCI: Water, Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Leaf Extract, Hexylene
Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum
Aussehen: Bernsteinfarbene Flüssigkeit
Einsatzkonzentration: 2%
Löslichkeit: Löslich in Wasser, Alkoholen und Glykolen
LOX-AGE™ ist eine Handelsmarke von BASF Care Creations
In-vitro-Studien zeigen eine verbesserte Differenzierung und
Kohäsion der Keratinozyten in der Epidermis, sowie eine vermehrte Bildung von Kollagen I in der Dermis (2-in-1-Ansatz).
2
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tS o fo r g e n
t ge
e f fe k n g e n
Rötu
I B R -TC LC ®
Sofortige Reduktion der Hautrötung
IBR-TCLC® ist ein öllöslicher Extrakt aus der Tomate und enthält
die farblosen Carotinoidvorstufen Phytoen und Phytofluen,
genannt Phyto(flu)ene®. Pflanzen produzieren diese Stoffe, um
sich vor externem Stress, besonders übermäßiger UV-Belastung
und freien Radikalen, zu schützen. Unter UV-Licht reflektieren
Phyto(flu)ene® Licht im grünen Farbspektrum (Komplementärfarbe zu Rot). Diese Fähigkeit kann in der Hautpflege genutzt
werden, um gerötete Haut heller und ebenmäßiger erscheinen
zu lassen.
IBR-TCLC® IN SQUALANE 702
INCI: Squalane, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract
Aussehen/Geruch: Hellgelbes Öl mit charakteristischem
Geruch
Einsatzkonzentration: 0,1–2,0%
Konservierung: Keine
IBR-TCLC® IN SQUALANE 702 ist eine Handelsmarke
von IBR
HETEROSIDE
In einem Halbseitentest mit 4 Probanden zeigte sich eine
sofortige Reduktion der Hautrötung nach einmaliger Anwendung einer Formulierung mit 1,5% IBR-TCLC® (Chromametermessung).
Abb. 4: Links: Applikation eines Cremegels mit 1,5% IBRTCLC®. Rechts: Applikation der Placeboformulierung.
Centella Asiatica (Tigergras) – nachhaltig gewonnen, Fair Trade
Heteroside ist ein hochaufgereinigter Extrakt aus der CentellaAsiatica-Pflanze, titriert in glykolisierten Triterpenen (Madecassoside und Asiaticoside). Heteroside zeigt entzündungshemmende Eigenschaften und eine Verbesserung der
Barrierefunktion. Des Weiteren konnte eine Aktivierung der
Aquaporin-3- und der Involucrinsynthese gezeigt werden und
damit eine positive Auswirkung auf den Keratinisierungsprozess und auf die Feuchtigkeit in der Haut. Heteroside ist in der
Lage, in einem dreifachen Ansatz Wasser in der Haut zu
speichern und wiederzuverwenden:
"21
8BTTFS3FDZDMJOH
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In-vivo-Studie
0,2% Heteroside wurde über 56 Tage zweimal täglich im Gesichtsbereich angewandt (placebokontrollierte Doppelblindstudie mit 17 Probanden). Nach 56 Tagen erfolgte eine Analyse des Blinzelfältchenbereiches: Es zeigte sich eine 28%ige
Hautglättung und eine 19%ige Reduktion der Faltenoberfläche.
HETEROSIDE
INCI: Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Pflanzenname: Centella Asiatica
Herkunft: Hochplateaus auf Madagascar
Aussehen/Geruch: Weißes, geruchloses Pulver
Einsatzkonzentration: 0,2–0,5%
HETEROSIDE ist ein Produkt von Bayer Serdex
5JHIUKVODUJPOT
1FSNFBCJMJUÊU
*OUSJOTJTDIFT8BTTFS.BOBHFNFOU
7FSCFTTFSVOHEFS)BVUCBSSJFSFGVOLUJPO
Abb. 5: Wirkmechanismus von Heteroside in der Haut.
3
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SINODOR®
Der Geruchsabsorber
Sinodor® ist hocheffektiv in der Neutralisation von Gerüchen
und besitzt ein breites Wirkungsspektrum. Dabei hat Sinodor® keinen Eigengeruch. Die Wirksamkeit wird durch die
Bindung flüchtiger Geruchsbestandteile erreicht. Die Einsatzmöglichkeiten von Sinodor® sind vielfältig. Durch den Trend
zu parfümfreien Formulierungen besitzen vieler dieser unparfümierten Kosmetikprodukte einen nicht optimalen Eigengeruch. Hier ist Sinodor® in der Lage, den Geruch der Basisformulierungen zu reduzieren.
Es wurden verschiedene Mixturen mit unangenehmen Gerüchen
hergestellt. Darunter befanden sich Isovaleriansäure, Hexansäure,
Mercaptoessigsäure, welche für die unangenehmen Gerüche an
den Füßen und Achseln verantwortlich sind, sowie Skatol und
Hexylamin (Körpergeruch) und eine Mixtur aller Komponenten.
Diese 6 Mischungen wurden von 15 Probanden eines Expertenpanels analysiert. Die Bewertung der Geruchsintensität erfolgt
mittels einer Skala von 0 bis 100. Die Zugabe von Sinodor® bewirkte im Durchschnitt eine 5%ige Reduktion der Geruchsintensität; die höchste Wirksamkeit von 11% Geruchsreduktion
konnte bei Isovaleriansäure erreicht werden.
In einer weiteren Studie wurden Haarsträhnen mit kommerziellen Dauerwelleprodukten (Ammonium-Thioglycolat) behandelt
und dann mit einem 0,5%-Sinodor®-Shampoo gewaschen. Mittels Massenspektrometrie wurde eine 30%ige Reduktion dreier
typischer Ammonium-Thioglycolationen nachgewiesen. Die
olfaktorische Beurteilung der Haarsträhnen wurde mittels eines
Expertenpanels von 30 Testteilnehmern vorgenommen. 87%
der Probanden konnten eine deutliche Geruchsreduktion
der dauergewellten Haarsträhnen nach der Reinigung mit einem
0,5%-Sinodor®-Shampoo feststellen.
Einsatzgebiete:
t Parfümfreie Formulierungen
t Parfümfreie Deoprodukte
t Reduktion unerwünschter Gerüche am Haar und Körper
SINODOR®
INCI: Citronellyl Methylcrotonate
Aussehen/Geruch: Klare, geruchlose Flüssigkeit
Einsatzkonzentration: 0,2–1%
SINODOR® ist eine Handelsmarke von Soliance/Givaudan
SOOTHEX®
Natürliche Hautberuhigung durch indischen Weihrauch
In einer Probandenstudie mit 15 Teilnehmern wurde eine Enthaarungscreme für 20 Minuten verwendet. Eine Stunde nach
der Anwendung wurde die entstehende Hautrötung mittels
Chromameter gemessen. Die Anwendung von 2,5% Soothex®
zeigte eine signifikante Verringerung der Hautrötung, welche durch die Anwendung der Enthaarungscreme hervorgerufen worden war.
In einer weiteren Studie an 22 Probanden mit empfindlicher
Haut wurde 7% Milchsäure in die nasolabiale Falte appliziert. Die
entstehende Missempfindung wurde mittels Scoringwerten von
0 (kein stechender Schmerz) bis 4 (extrem stechender Schmerz)
erfasst. Mit 2% Soothex® konnte eine deutliche Reduktion der
durch Milchsäure verursachten Missempfindung erreicht
werden.
In einem Patchtest an 30 Probanden wurde ein Pflaster mit einer
0,3%igen Natriumlaurylsulfat(SLS)-Gelformulierung appliziert,
4
sowie ein Pflaster mit einer 0,3%igen Natriumlaurylsulfat-Gelformulierung und 2,5% Soothex®. Die Rötungsintensität der Haut
wurde mittels Scoringsystem erfasst. Es zeigte sich eine deutliche Reduktion der Hautrötung nach 5 Tagen mit Soothex®
im Vergleich zur Kontrollformulierung.
Änderung der Hautrötung im Vergleich zur Basislinie (Scorewerte)
Der indische Weihrauch findet in der ayurvedischen Medizin
bereits seit hunderten von Jahren als Phytotherapeutikum seinen
Einsatz. Soothex® ist ein natürlicher Extrakt des Weihrauchs.
In vitro konnte seine antiinflammatorische Wirkung bei der
Hemmung des Entzündungsbotenstoffes 5-Lipoxygenase gezeigt werden.
0,6
0,5
0,4
0,3
0,2
0,1
0,3% SLS-Gel
+ 2,5% Soothex®
0
Tag 3
Tag 5
Tag 8
Abb. 6: Im Natriumlaurylsulfat-Patchtest konnte eine bis zu
30%ige Reduktion der Hautrötung (p<0,001) erreicht werden.
SOOTHEX®
INCI: Boswellia Serrata Gum, Dipropylene Glycol
Aussehen: Leicht trübe, braune Flüssigkeit
Einsatzkonzentration: 0,5–2,5%
Löslichkeit: Öllöslich
SOOTHEX® ist eine Handelsmarke von Soliance/Givaudan
COS1504_EH_Impag_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 18.03.15 12:47 Seite 5
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PHYTO-CERAMIDYL OMEGA
Lipidkombination besonderer Art für gesunde Haut und Haare
PHYTO-CERAMIDYL OMEGA ist eine synergistische Kombination
mehrfach ungesättigter Fettsäuren aus der Sacha Inchi und Ceramide 3. Diese einzigartige Mischung enthält hohe Konzentrationen an ungesättigten Fettsäuren, Omega-3 (31%), Omega-6
(20%) und Omega-9 (6%) sowie Ceramide 3 (5%) nicht tierischen
Ursprungs. Diese spezielle Kombination aus Fettsäuren und
Ceramiden ist in einer aus Oliven gewonnenen Tri- und Diglyceridmischung gelöst. Durch die spezielle Zusammensetzung wird
eine besonders einfache Einarbeitung ermöglicht. Die einzelnen
Substanzen weisen exzellente hautpflegende Eigenschaften
auf, die bereits aus der Literatur wohlbekannt sind. Sie stärken
die Hautbarriere, verringern den transepidermalen Wasserverlust und versorgen die Haut mit Feuchtigkeit.
Mit PHYTO-CERAMIDYL OMEGA geht die Pflege noch darüber hinaus! Eine Cutometerstudie zeigte nach Anwendung von
5% PHYTO-CERAMIDYL OMEGA versus Placebo bereits nach
einer Stunde eine signifikante Zunahme der Hautelastizität.
Dieses Ergebnis verstärkte sich nach zweimal täglicher Applikation über 30 Tage.
Eine signifikante Reduktion der Faltentiefe sowie die Glättung der Hautoberfläche konnten anhand Visioscananalyse
gezeigt werden. Das Mikrorelief wird ebenmäßig und die Haut
strahlend gepflegt.
In der Haarpflege wirkt PHYTO-CERAMIDYL OMEGA gegen kraftlose, strapazierte Haare. Der Wirkstoff regeneriert die geschädigte kutikuläre Lipidschicht der Haarstruktur und der Kopfhaut. Die Kohäsion der Korneozyten und Epidermiszellen der
Kopfhaut wird verstärkt und die Schuppen werden reduziert. Die
Haare wirken glänzend und gepflegt.
PHYTO-CERAMIDYL OMEGA
INCI: Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Olive Glycerides, Glycerin,
Aqua (Water), Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Ceramide 3, Tocopherol
Aussehen: Hellgelbe, wachsartige Paste
Einsatzkonzentration: 3–5%, optimaler pH-Bereich: 5–8
Konservierung: Keine
PHYTO-CERAMIDYL OMEGA ist ein Produkt von Cobiosa
EVERCOOL SKIN™
Für eine lang anhaltende, kühlende Frische
Die Thermorezeptoren in der Haut sind in der Lage, Kälte- und
Wärmereize wahrzunehmen. In einem speziellen Verfahren wurde
aus über 700 Molekülen ein neuer Kühlungswirkstoff identifiziert, der eine 30-fach stärkere Wirkung als Menthol aufweist.
Die neue, patentierte Kühlungssubstanz ist in der Lage, den
Hauttemperatur-TRMP8-Rezeptor zu aktivieren und einen
Nervenimpuls auszulösen, der zu einer Kühlungswahrnehmung
führt. Der Wirkstoff Evercool Skin™ setzt sich aus diesem neuen
Molekül zusammen. Durch die Kombination mit 2 weiteren Substanzen wurde der perfekte Kühlungswirkstoff entwickelt, der ein
lang andauerndes Frischegefühl vermittelt.
Evercool Skin™ und das Placebo wurden in einer 50:50-WasserEthanol-Lösung verdünnt. 10 Tropfen von diesem Gemisch
wurden bei 25 Teilnehmern auf dem Unterarm appliziert. Der
Kühlungseffekt wurde mittels Scoresystem von einem Expertenpanel bestimmt. Es zeigte sich ein deutlich wahrnehmbarer
Kühlungseffekt. Dieser konnte noch 2 Stunden nach der Applikation detektiert werden.
EVERCOOL SKIN™
INCI: Menthyl PCA, Lactamide MEA, Menthane Carboxamide
Ethylpyridine
Aussehen: Gelbe bis braune Flüssigkeit
Einsatzkonzentration: 1–2%
Der Wirkstoff wird dem Parfüm oder Ethanol am Ende des
Formulierungsprozesses zur Optimierung der Performance
beigefügt.
EVERCOOL SKIN™ ist eine Handelsmarke von Soliance/
Givaudan
Empfohlene max.
Vorteile
Einsatzkonzentration
Kühlungswirkstoff
Schlüsselsubstanz
Questice Liquid
Menthyl PCA
2%
Lang anhaltender Effekt, Leave-on, kein Geruch
Questice Plus
Menthyl PCA
Menthol
2,5%
Soforteffekt und lang anhaltender Effekt, Leave-on + Rinse-off,
leicht mentholischer Geruch
Evercool Skin
Menthyl PCA
Menthane Carboxamide
Ethylpyridine
Lactamide MEA
2%
Intensive Kühlung bis 2 Stunden, Leave-on + Rinse-off, kein
Geruch
5
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MPI BIOSCRUBS
Eine nachhaltige Alternative zu Polyethylen
Unser Partner MPI präsentiert mit den neuen Bioscrubs eine
weitere Peelingalternative zu Polyethylen. Die Bioscrubs
zeichnen sich durch ihre schnelle Abbaubarkeit in mariner
Umgebung aus, die den OECD-Standards entspricht. Die nicht
sphärischen, unregelmäßig geformten Partikel der BioscrubsSerie sind auf Basis nachwachsender Rohstoffe hergestellt.
Aktuell werden die Bioscrubs in zwei verschiedenen Partikelgrößen angeboten. Mit den Größen von 20 mesh (max. 840
μm) und 50 mesh (max. 297 μm) können Gesichts- und Bodypeelings formuliert werden, die sich mit den abrasiven Eigenschaften der PEs vergleichen lassen.
Bioscrubs sind über einen weiten pH-Bereich stabil, lassen
sich gut in tensidbasierte Formulierungen einarbeiten
und eignen sich so für eine Vielzahl von verschiedenen kosmetischen Anwendungen.
Bioscrub 20 PC und Bioscrub 50 PC
INCI: Polyhydroxybutyrate
Partikelgröße Bioscrub 20 PC (max.): 840 μm
Partikelgröße Bioscrub 50 PC (max.): 297 μm
Schmelzpunkt (°C): 162–172
Aussehen: Gebrochenes, weißes Pulver
Bioscrub 20 PC und Bioscrub 50 PC sind Produkte von MPI
SUNSIL SILICA
Natürlichkeit und Eleganz
Verleihen Sie Ihren Formulierungen mehr Eleganz
Aus der breiten Palette unserer Texturadditive möchten wir uns
in dieser Ausgabe unseren Allroundtalenten, den Produkten der
SUNSIL-Serie widmen. Die sphärischen SILICA-Beads verleihen
Ihren Formulierungen einen eleganten, luxuriösen Touch, der
mit der Haptik von Polymeren wie Nylon oder Polyethylen zu
vergleichen ist. Aufgrund des mineralischen Ursprungs* können
die Produkte auch in naturkosmetikkonformen Rezepturen verwendet werden.
Die sphärischen Teilchen unterscheiden sich in ihrer Partikelgrößenverteilung sowie in der Oberflächenbeschaffenheit. Die
winzigen Kugeln beeinflussen das Hautgefühl positiv und verbessern die Verteilbarkeit von Skin-Care-Formulierungen oder
dekorativer Kosmetik. In Verbindung mit Pigmenten, wie beispielsweise TiO2, kann man die Transparenz der Formulierung
verbessern und Make-up-Produkte so einstellen, dass sich in der
Anwendung ein natürlicheres Erscheinungsbild ergibt.
Über die Oberflächenbeschaffenheit und damit variierende Ölaufnahmekapazität lässt sich hauttypengerecht formulieren.
So können Sie mit einem porösen Silica wie SUNSIL 130H
Lippenstiften, Pudern oder Skin-Care-Formulierungen mattierende Eigenschaften verleihen und deren Haltbarkeit verlängern. Soll auf diesen Effekt bewusst verzichtet und das Produkt
speziell auf die sensible und trockene Haut abgestimmt werden,
kann man die Texturverbesserung auch mit einem nicht porösen
Silica, wie z. B. SUNSIL 130NP, erreichen.
Eine weitere positive Eigenschaft ist die von mikrofeinen, sphärischen Partikeln bewirkte diffuse Lichtstreuung, die einen SoftFocus-Effekt und so ein ebenmäßigeres Erscheinungsbild
der Haut bewirkt.
* SILICA(SiO2)-Siliciumdioxid bildet als Teil von Silikaten, wie z. B. Feldspat, Tonmineralien oder in freier Form als Quarz, den Hauptbestandteil der Erdkruste und somit
auch die häufigste Siliciumverbindung.
6
Abb. 7: Diffuse Lichtstreuung
– Soft-Focus-Effekt.
Abb. 8: Mikroskopische
Aufnahme von SILICA.
Handelsname
Beschreibung
Ø Partikel- Ölabsorption
größe (μm) (cc/g)
SUNSIL 20
Poröses Silica
2
0,9 ~ 1,3
SUNSIL 130L
Poröses Silica
7
0,6 ~ 0,9
SUNSIL 130
Poröses Silica
7
0,9 ~ 1,3
SUNSIL 130H
Poröses Silica
7
1,3 ~ 1,7
SUNSIL 130SH
Poröses Silica
7
2,1 ~ 2,6
SUNSIL 150H
Poröses Silica
13
1,4 ~ 2,1
SUNSIL 130NP
Nicht poröses
Silica
7
0,3 ~ 0,6
SUNSIL SILICA
Chemische Bezeichnung: Silicon Dioxide
INCI: Silica
CAS-Nummer: 7631-86-9 (kolloidales Siliciumdioxid)
EINECS: 231-545-4
Einsatzkonzentration: 2–5%
Einarbeitung: Öl- oder Wasserphase; alternativ auch in die
fertige, noch niedrig viskose Emulsion
Anwendungsbereiche: Gesichtspflege, Bodylotionen, Handcreme, Augenpflege, Antifaltencremes, dekorative Kosmetik
SUNSIL SILICA ist ein Produkt von Sunjin
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MINERALPEELING
Elemente unserer Erde
Unser Partner Lessonia bietet mit Mineralpeelingkörpern eine
weitere natürliche Alternative zu herkömmlichen pflanzlichen
Exfoliatoren. Die Produkte basieren auf mikronisierten Natursteinen, denen in der Naturheilkunde eine positive Wirkung auf
Körper und Seele zugesprochen wird.
Körnungsgrad (μm)
Produkt
Die stabilen Partikel zeichnen sich durch eine effektive Abrasivität aus und reagieren mit sehr wenigen Chemikalien. Folglich
ermöglicht dies den uneingeschränkten Einsatz in verschiedenen Formulierungen.
INCI
Farbe
Kurze Beschreibung
VOLCANIC SAND EXFOLIATOR 300, 500, 1000
Volcanic Sand
Schwarz
Ein vulkanisches Gestein, das aus einem speziell ausgewählten Lavastrom
des Vatnsskarð-Passes im Nordwesten Islands stammt
RHYOLITE EXFOLIATOR
75, 200
Lava Powder oder
Pumice
Silbergrau
Rhyolit ist ein vulkanisches Gestein, das reich an Quarz ist
QUARTZ EXFOLIATOR
500, 200
Quartz Powder
Grau
Quarz, Quarzsand bzw. gemahlenes Quarzgestein
GARNET EXFOLIATOR
300, 100
Aluminium Silicate
Roséfarben
Roséfarbenes Pulver, das aus dem Halbedelstein Granat gewonnen wird
CORINDON EXFOLIATOR
500, 300, 100
Alumina
Weiß, schimmernd
Corindon, hier auch als Korund bekannt, ist das zweithärteste natürlich
vorkommende Mineral nach dem Diamanten
NEU
SUCRAGELE
Effiziente Lösungen für Feuchttücher
Die natürlichen Sucrose-Ester-Compounds unseres Partners
Alfa Chemicals, die Ihnen unter dem Produktnamen Sucragel
bekannt sind, verfügen über ein vielseitiges Anwendungsspektrum. Neben den etablierten Sucragel-Produktkonzepten zur
Verwendung hochviskoser Ölgele, die bei Kontakt mit Wasser
spontan emulgieren und sich als Massage- oder Badeprodukte sowie als Reinigungsgele eignen, möchten wir Ihnen heute
eine Lösung zur Herstellung von Feuchttuchtränklösungen vorstellen.
Die Produkte der Sucragel-Serie sind in der Lage, sehr stabile
Mikroemulsionen zu bilden, die einen sehr geringen Anteil an
Sucrose-Ester enthalten. Die Viskosität der Mikroemulsion kann
mit Sucrathix VX auf die gewünschte Viskosität eingestellt und,
ausreichend konserviert, als Wet-Wipe-Lösung eingesetzt werden. Die Lösung verzichtet auf PEG-haltige Emulgatoren,
ist frei von Tensiden, weist eine sehr gute Hautverträglichkeit auf und ist somit auch für Produkte für die sensible Haut geeignet.
Die leichte Ölbeladung sorgt für einen guten Reinigungseffekt,
sodass auch wasserfestes Make-up entfernt werden kann. Das
Produkt zeichnet sich durch eine sehr angenehme Sensorik aus
und hinterlässt einen pflegenden, nicht fettenden Film.
Sucragel eignet sich als kalt zu verarbeitendes Hochkonzentrat
zur Herstellung von Mikroemulsionen, die als Tränklösung verwendet werden können.
Milde Feuchttücherformulierung
Phase Ingredient
INCI
% Lieferant
w/w
A
Sucragel AOF
Glycerin ,Prunus Dulcis (Sweet
Almond) Oil, Sucrose Laurate, 1,0
Aqua
B
Wasser
Aqua
97,5
Sucrathix VX
Microcrystalline Cellulose,
Cellulose Gum, Xanthan Gum
0,4
Alfa
Chemicals
C
Euxyl K700
Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl
Alcohol, Poassium Sorbate,
Water, Tocopherol
0,6
Schülke
D
Essential oil
Essential Oil
0,5
Alfa
Chemicals
Herstellung einer Dispersion mit Sucrathix VX und Wasser
Phase B unter Rühren zu Phase A geben.
Phase C und Phase D hinzufügen.
7
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B I O S U C C I N I C a c i d B i o - S ATM
Bio-Bernsteinsäure
Zucker aus Pflanzenmaterial dient als Ausgangssubstrat, welches
von Mikroorganismen unter Kohlendioxidverbrauch zu Bernsteinsäure umgesetzt wird.
Dieser Herstellungsprozess ist im Vergleich zur herkömmlichen
Methode deutlich energiesparender und CO2-neutral, da die für
die Fermentation eingesetzten Mikroorganismen Kohlendioxid
verbrauchen.
BIOSUCCINIC acid Bio-SATM bietet viele Verwendungsmöglichkeiten. Besonders geeignet ist Bio-SATM für Zubereitungen wie
z. B. Badetabletten, Badesalze, Haushaltsprodukte und Entkalker,
bei denen ein sprudelnder Effekt gewünscht ist.
Bio-SATM überzeugt im Vergleich zu anderen, üblicherweise
eingesetzten Säuren bei Kontakt mit Wasser durch eine längerfristige CO2-Freisetzung, wodurch ein effektiverer Sprudeleffekt
erreicht wird.
Distributed by
IMPAG Import GmbH
Fritz-Remy-Straße 25
D-63071 Offenbach am Main
Tel:
+ 49 (0) 69 850 008-0
Fax:
+ 49 (0) 69 850 008-90
E-Mail: [email protected]
Web:
www.impag.de
Das Produkt ist selbst nicht hygroskopisch und eignet sich
deshalb besonders für Pulverzubereitungen, bei denen ein frei
fließendes Produkt gewünscht ist. Füllsubstanzen und Additive,
die ein Verklumpen verhindern sollen, können so reduziert
werden.
Ein weiterer Vorteil liegt in der antimikrobiellen Wirkung von
Bio-SATM. Bio-SATM zeigt generell eine höhere Aktivität gegen die
getesteten Mikroorganismen im Vergleich zur Zitronen-, Apfel-,
Fumar-, Phosphor-, Wein- und Milchsäure.
Vorteile von Bio-SATM
t Produziert aus erneuerbaren Materialien
t Nachhaltig
t Klimaneutraler Prozess durch CO2-Verbrauch
t Energiesparender Produktionsprozess
Einsatzmöglichkeiten von Bio-SATM
t Badetabletten, Badesalze
t Zahnpflege
t Haushaltsreiniger
t Entkalker
t pH-Stabilisator
IMPAG Group Country Offices
Switzerland/ Zurich – www.impag.ch
Germany / Offenbach – www.impag.de
France/Nancy – www.impag.fr
Poland/Warsaw – www.impag.pl
Austria/Vienna – www.impag.at
04/ 2015
Mit BIOSUCCINIC acid Bio-SATM steht Ihnen eine mittels Fermentation gewonnene Bio-Bernsteinsäure zur Verfügung, die
als direkter Ersatz für herkömmlich hergestellte Bernsteinsäure
verwendet werden kann.
COS1504_27_Incosmetic_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 26.03.15 13:56 Seite 27
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EVENTS
MARKETING
In-Cosmetics 2015
Highlights in close-up
In-Cosmetics 2015 – this year
celebrating its 25th anniversary
– brings the latest ingredients
and beauty industry trends to
life in Barcelona on April 14–16.
More than 680 suppliers from
over 40 countries launching
new ingredients and presenting
their latest research results and
consumer insights will attract
more than 8,000 personal care
professionals.
photo: Luciano Mortula, Shutterstock.com
A
ctive Concepts, Stand 7M30,
launches AC Kerazyme to maintain the hair’s natural integrity
and define a sustainable new style. It
utilises the natural power of bamboo
to create an active for the protection of
hair, as well as combating hair colour
fade. The company’s AMTicide Coconut
delivers a non-irritating and effective
multifunctional product by fermenting
Cocos nucifera (Coconut) fruit with
Lactobacillus. It provides moisturizing
and conditioning benefits in hair and
skin care applications. In addition, it
prevents the growth of fungus, specifically yeast and mould. Active.Lite
represses the transcription of melanogenic genes through the inhibition
of the upstream melanogenesis response and reduces inflammatory effects in order to achieve a flawless
complexion.
The show hosted in bustling Barcelona
as a launch pad for innovation
thickening and emulsifying ingredient;
and Sucrabase SF Bio – a cosmetic oily
gel base, which is 98.3% organically
certified. Sucramulse 163 uses the
technology of sugar esters to deliver a
100% natural PEG-free easy-to-use
emulsifier package that forms stable
lamellar emulsions with a luxurious
skin feel and good hydration.
www.alfa-chemicals.co.uk
www.activeconcepts.it
Air Products, Stand 7R70, launches
its New Generation delivery technolo-
gy, which is designed to provide formulations that deliver effective performance without containing the components that today’s product labelconscious consumers might raise objections to.
www.airproducts.com
AlfaCos, Stand 7H50, presents Sucragel AOF Bio – a 100% natural oil
Azelis, Stand 7C40, will be presenting new formulations like Subtle Skin,
Baby Soft, and Make Me Tingle featuring the latest fragrance trends, green
chemistry, beauty and health, caring
and sharing, and innovative textures.
www.azelis.com
BASF, Stand 6H40, showcases new
ingredients, formulations and concepts with specific sensory characteristics under the title Sensory 2.0. In addition, they present a new active ingredi-
ent that combines extracts from papaya, guava and saxifrage, which inhibit the melanin synthesis in the skin by
90 percent in vitro and deliver in vivo a
fast skin brightening action, which is
significantly better than a placebo and
three times higher than that of kojic
acid. Another highlight will be a synergistic complex that, for the first time in
cosmetics, reverses the consequences
of glycation. The Ancient Wisdom trend
from the company’s Colour Trends
2016 collection revolves around the
ideals of beauty and ideologies of the
ancient world. The company launches
a new generation of gold synthetic mica with a pure white gold shade, which
are able to give cosmetics – from lip
gloss to body serum – a shimmering
glow and shine.
www.personal-care.basf.com
Bayer MaterialScience, Stand 6G50,
following the market trend of sun pro-
쑺
COSSMA 4 I 2015
27
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MARKETING EVENTS
BergaCare SB Organic is a new variant
from its shea butter range. The new environmentally-friendly BergaScrub is
an alternative to microplastic peeling
beads for ecological exfoliation formulations.
www.berg-schmidt.de
BRB International, Stand 7R31, releases a range of seven new cosmetic
formulations that highlight the versatility of silicone emulsifiers.
www.brbbv.nl
Colour collection revolving around the
beauty ideals of the ancient world
tection products with very light skin
feeling, presents Baycusan C 2000,
(see page 10 f.) which is a new
polyurethane film former that can be
formulated in ethanol-based sun care
formulations. It allows the development of more cost effective sun protection products by providing a SPF
boosting effect and reducing manufacturing time. Improved formulation aesthetics, easier application on dry and
wet skin, a non-tacky after feel while
maintaining the overall performance,
such as sun protection and water resistance, are among the main benefits
of this breakthrough technology. The
company relaunches their global
brand Baycusan C.
soluble cationic surfactant. It forms
complexes with organic odour molecules and neutralizes their smell. It is
effective against a variety of unpleasant odours and is compatible with antimicrobial agents. It can be formulated in combination with or without perfume oils. In addition, it does not react
with carbonyl groups, a major component of many perfumes. Typical applications are foot creams and sprays, deodorants, perms and depilatories.
www.brenntag.de
Centerchem, Stand 7H50, will be
presenting Aurasphere, a cyclomethicone free gel-based ingredient
which contains the technology of Penstia Powder, a polymeric powder filler
which has a strong wrinkle blurring effect. The gel base can be added to a
wide variety of formulations, such as
www.centerchem.com
Chemyunion Química, Stand 7F70,
launches Biolumitá, an active ingredient that offers powerful performance
when compared with other, classical
actives. It acts on melanin reduction, as
well as the various pathways related to
the skin pigmentation process. The new
Emulfeel SSC Plus is an easy way to create sun care formulations with one single step and cold process through a
unique cosmetic innovation, DGN
technology. Emulfeel SSC provides
minimalist formulations that save
process time, as well as the reduction
of formulation ingredients. The Hebeatol Range is based on xylitil sesquicaprylate and has antimicrobial activity. Some products of this range are free
from controversial antimicrobials.
www.chemyunion.com.br
Clariant, Stand 7C50, opens up the
new sensory dimensions of its GlucoTain sugar-based and sulfate-free surfactants range. The glucose and natural oil-based products combine care
with cleaning power, therefore matching consumer needs for mildness,
while also adding new sensory dimensions to skin and hair care. The surfactants are also compatible with a wide
range of ingredients, fragrances, oils
and other actives. Clariant also presents its range of Plantasens Abyssinian
Oil and Plantasens Serums. Both Plan-
photo: Clariant
photo: BASF
Brenntag, Stand 7J50, presents ColaQuatSME, a new odour absorber from
Colonial Chemicals. It is a liquid, water-
primers, foundations, BB creams, CC
creams, and moisturisers.
www.materialscience.bayer.com
Berg + Schmidt, Stand 6N20, highlights the GlyAcid range by Crosschem.
This glycolic acid is free from formaldehyde and formic acid. In the lecithin
category, the company presents highpurity phosphatidylcholine fractions
from the BergaSom product range,
used primarily in the manufacture
of liposomes and nanoemulsions.
28
COSSMA 4 I 2015
Care combined with
cleaning power
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EVENTS
MARKETING
tasens and GlucoTain will feature in
the series of Innovation Lectures: Plantasens Olive LD – the power of nature
with a silicon touch! and GlucoTain surfactants – a new mild & sustainable sensory dimension.
www.clariant-personalcare.com
CLR, Stand 6E20, presents ProRenew Complex CLR, which affects the
ability of ageing skin to renew itself
quickly and effectively and to act as a
biosensor. The active is based on probiotic technology and positively influences both the speed and the quality of
epidermal growth. The production of
essential proteins and enzymes in skin
quality is clearly increased, while barrier function and cell cohesion improved
and cell proliferation accelerated.
oil that is extracted from the seeds of
Salvia hispanica through cold pressure. The plant has a high content of
omega 3 fatty acid (63%), excellent for
the promotion of faster hair growth,
while also feeding the follicles in order
to stimulate growth and shine. Restoring the lipids of the hair-barrier will
make the hair more resistant to breakage and split ends. The active protects
hair fibres from oxidative damage.
Cobolift is an active ingredient with a
filmogenic, long-lasting, moisturizing
and tightening effect. It is a purified
fraction extracted from Quinoa seeds.
Cobolift has a 3D structure that fits
with the skin’s surface, therefore forming a cohesive long-lasting biological
film with a lifting effect. Bio-Capigen
Veg is a biotechnological complex of
botanical origin that reduces hair loss
and stimulates hair growth. It is a compound of hydrolized Soy protein, Red
Onion and Ginseng Extract, vitamins
from group B, sulfopeptides, glucose
and aminoacids. Cobio-HA is a synergistic complex of Alpha Hydroxy Acids
that are strengthened with moisturizing agents: Oligosaccharides and Urea,
main components of the NMF. AHAs in
this ingredient have been partly neutralized in order to minimize the reactions of intolerance while developing
its activity: moisturizing and modulating the exfoliation of keratinized superficial layers.
www.cobiosa.com
This new active ingredient is based on probiotic technology that acts as a biosensor
Codif Recherche et Nature, Stand
7C70, showcases Neuroguard, which
explores a new approach in Neurocosmetics – specifically the treatment of
wrinkles in 60+ year old consumers. It
treats Neuroageing and re-establishes
original and safe communication between nerves and fibroblasts. Collagen
and elastin synthesis is also re-established.
Contipro Biotech, Stand 7E20,
launches Recelline, a new peptide for
proteasome activation, allows efficient
degradation of useless or damaged
proteins, and production of newly usable material in the form of short base
sequences. The most important consequence of this recovery system is DNA
protection and the delay of cell senescence.
www.codif-recherche-et-nature.com
www.hyaluronan.cz
쑺
Roundtable: Overcoming the challenges for niche start-ups
Don’t miss the niche brands round table moderated by COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss on
April 14th, at 3.15 p.m. at the Marketing Trends Theatre. This international round table on
How to overcome the main challenges for niche start-up cosmetics brands will not only tackle
how to spot niche potential in a saturated market environment, but also how to obtain
distribution without the marketing budget of a global player.
Paola Gugliotta is the Co-Founder and Creative Director of Sepai Skincare, a technologically
advanced skin care brand for people who are seeking clean, effective, no-fuss skincare.
Lutz Herrmann, the founder of Lutz Herrmann Design, has created many top-selling perfume
flacons and folding cartons for companies, such as Procter & Gamble, Coty and Puig.
In 2012 he launched his own fragrance J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin, which gave a reflection
of present day Berlin, as well as its heritage.
Helen Miller of Helen Miller Consulting, with over 20 years buying experience in the beauty
industry at one of beauty’s biggest retailers, Boots, will describe what a good distribution
strategy looks like, how to get the best retail deals, and how to avoid those hidden
cost traps.
photo: Imogen Matthews
Cobiosa, Stand 7R71, presents Chiaprotect, an extra virgin pure botanical
photo: CLR
www.clr-berlin.com
COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss with last
year’s roundtable participants Sarah
Brown, Dr. Andrea Sättler and Alice
Davis-Hart (from left to right)
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MARKETING EVENTS
Turkey and the Middle East in focus
A dedicated feature on Turkey and the Middle East explores what the regions have to offer.
A special pavilion will play host to ingredient manufacturers from Turkey and its bordering
regions. During the Marketing Trends Presentation, Dr. Yavuz Özoguz of Halal certification
specialists m-haditec, offers insights into the rise of Halal products. Euromonitor International
examines the region’s key trends and statistics as part of its global beauty market presentation, while Mintel focuses on Middle Eastern Beauty Rituals and Products from the region,
as part of its Product Demonstrations. A Turkey and Middle East Product Trail highlights
unique products and projects from, or inspired by, the region.
photo: Naolys
www.in-cosmetics.com/MarketFocus
Plant cell complex (made of native
cells of tuberose) that is dedicated
to the area of the eye
Courage and Khazaka, Stand 6T39,
demonstrate their broad range of devices used for efficacy testing and
claim support. The latest devices
shown are the DandruffMeter, a device
to assess dandruff in size and quantity;
the MoistureMap, a capacitance imaging device that provides information
on hydration distribution and skin topography at the same time; and the Invitro Tewameter – a probe for TEWL
measurement – which offers all benefits of the Tewameter and is suited to
sit on a Franz cell.
www.courage-khazaka.de
Croda, Stand 6D40, launches Cithrol
10GTIS, an effective mild surfactant
Dow Corning, Stand 7E60, exhibits
3901 Liquid Satin Blend. This ingredi-
that is used for luxurious facial
cleansers. The product allows the
formulation of crystal clear facial
cleansers that are made up of oil and
water in a microemulsion, therefore
maintaining the perfect hydrolipophilic balance that is required for
this type of high performance system.
DuraQuench IQ SA helps to reinforce
the skin’s natural barrier and delivers
up to 72 hours of visible moisturisation
and is also effective with wash-off systems, where it provides additional sensorial benefits. New data shows it can
also deliver scalp moisturisation and
hair conditioning benefits. Developed
using the latest advances in proteomics, and proven to offer targeted
repair to the most damaged areas of
the hair’s surface, the amino acid sequences of the peptides in Kerestore
2.0 exactly match those in the keratin
proteins found in human hair. New data also shows this active ingredient
greatly improves the sensory properties of the hair whilst wet, without impacting the final dry appearance or
feel of the hair.
ent delivers a unique sensory texture
and rheology. The material resembles
a thick, stretchy fluid and, upon first
touch, leaves a long lasting satin feel of
intense lubricity, while delivering a
stringy yet novel texture. CB-3046 Fluid
is a blend of silicone technologies that
can help formulate water-based leavein hair products that tame frizzy, unruly
hair. The new blend is listed in the Catalogue of Cosmetics Ingredients used
in China.
www.dowcorning.com
Dr. Straetmans, Stand 7H60, introduces Symbiomuls rich, a natural
emulsifier blend that is easy to use for
O/W-emulsions of mainly higher viscosities, rich textures and provides a
nourishing skin feel. Dermofeel enlight
is a natural effective whitening active,
based on phytic acid and mulberry
www.croda.com
30
Cyprotex, Stand 6T54, showcases
SenCeeTox, a multiparametric in vitro
animal alternative for testing skin sensitisation. Available in 2D and 3D cellular models it allows the testing of single ingredients, as well as finished
products, such as creams, lotions and
insoluble chemicals.
tutes which show how good siliconefree can feel. Offering an alternative to
petrolatum-based creams, CremerlinPura is the vegetable answer to petrochemically-derived soft and creamy oil
bases. Providing very similar caring
properties to petrolatum jelly, this
green alternative provides a better skin
feel. Softisan 649 is a non-animal derived alternative to lanolin that is completely free from any impurities that
can cause skin reactions.
Dauper, Stand 1FR04, exhibits a
technology that offers higher quality
and long lasting fragrances, whilst
avoiding a price increase. Corescent
technology redefines the olfactory
pyramid for the 21st century.
www.cremer-care.de
www.dauper.com
COSSMA 4 I 2015
www.cyprotex.com
photo: Geotech
Cremer Care, Stand 7H20, presents
CremerCoor GC8 and GC810, which reduce preservatives. Miglyol 8810, CremerCoor MCT C7, Coco 810 and PPG
810 are light, non-oily silicone substi-
New colour and effect guidelines
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EVENTS
extract with in vivo proven activity. It
is especially suitable for natural age
spot correction applications and skin
whitening products.
www.dr-straetmans.de
Elementis, Stand 7F50, presents
Meadowfoam Seed Oil, a natural cold
pressed oil from Limnanthes alba,
which is a small plant found in abundance in the north-western Pacific
coastal region of the United States.
Due to its unique composition it contains a high concentration of long
chain fatty acids with double bonds situated in such a way that it is very resistant to oxidative degradation. In addition, it has a good skin feel, is nongreasy, and provides mild conditioning
and skin moisturisation.
MARKETING
Educational Programme at a glance
The educational programme includes the Marketing Trends Presentations with three days of
free insights into marketing trends, including round-table events, chaired by the likes of
COSSMA Editor Angelika Meiss, who examines How Niche Brands Can Make it Big, and Amarjit
Sahota of Organic Monitor, who will take a closer look at natural and organic standards and
certifications. The Marketing Trends Presentations address topics such as skin diagnostics, mobile technology commerce and increasing fragrance sales; and offer case studies
and lively panel discussions.
The Innovation Zone explores the latest product launches, formulation displays, and live
demonstrations; while Mintel presents Beauty Rituals, which examines the changing
approach to beauty regimes – from the multi-step skin care routines of women in Asia,
to the complex hair care adopted by Brazilians.
The Innovation Seminars feature more than 80 hours of presentations on the latest products,
ingredients and technologies; plus updates on formulation techniques.
Eight workshops led by industry experts cover an array of topics from legislation to formulation. Highlights include The Claims Development Process, Delivery Systems for Cosmetic Actives,
Sun Protection Regulation in the EU, the US and Australia, Green Emulsifiers, Surfactants and
Emollients and Hair Care Advances.
www.in-cosmetics.com/workshop
www.elementis-specialties.com
Elixens France – Floressence, Stand
6H71, presents two new fragrance collections, 50 Shades of Rose and Delicious Duos.
www.elixens.com
Evonik, Stand 6B40, introduces a
comprehensive portfolio of actives
based on ceramide technology, and a
new leave-on formulation concept,
which will help formulators to expand
their formulation and process flexibility by using efficient natural emulsifiers.
Moreover, they introduce their new
Emulsifier Selection Tool. Varisoft EQ 100
is a new high performance liquid conditioning agent with an improved sustainability profile. The active ingredient
provides superior manageability, lubricity and softness to the hair.
www.evonik.com/personal-care
Exsymol, Stand 7M71, has conducted some new testing on their natural
peptide Arct’Alg, which is based on the
arctic red alga Chondus crispus with its
unusually high level of peptides.
www.exsymol.com
Galactic, Stand 7F90, presents Galicare PLA 350 Cosmetic, a biodegrad-
able PLA particle shape that optimizes
properties such as skin exfoliating.
www.lactic.com
ble to temperature and UV radiation. It
protects against the damaging effects
of sun exposure by increasing the
skin’s tolerance to daily UV attacks,
therefore maintaining healthy skin and
helping to prevent the appearance
of lines and wrinkles. Bronz’Alg is a
patented synergistic association of an
algal extract with acetyl-tyrosine for
up-regulating melanin production,
therefore improving tanning efficacy.
www.gelyma.com
Geotech, Stand 7N31, introduces
their product range of pearlescent pigments with a new product line called
Geopearl C Intense. This is a range of
natural mica-based pearlescent pigments with six new FDA approved organic intense pearlescent colours. The
company also showcases new colour
and effect guidelines, which are based
on the three concepts: Winter Wonderland, Romantic Neon and North Africa.
www.geotech.nl
Greentech, Stand 1F20, presents an
anti-ageing active, an isolated and purified natural bioactive fraction, which
acts on skin micro-relief. Its main effects are visible on cutaneous structure
and texture, therefore making the skin
firmer and softer. Also on show is an intense solar protector that protects skin
cells and particularly stem cells from
UV attacks.
Gelyma, Stand 7S60, launches
Sun’Alg – a combination of natural and
www.greentech.fr
microalga ingredients, Ecocert approved and China compliant, and sta-
Gulbrandsen Technologies, Stand
7F10, presents new AP actives that
show improved performance in comparison with AACH, i.e. activated
sesqui aluminium chlorohydrate
(AASCH). The novel AP salts provide
the most efficacious active for aerosol
formulations.
www.gulbrandsen.com
IBR, Stand 6B51, launches IBR-Pristinizer 1601, an aqueous extract of As-
teriscus graveolens which shields the
skin and its cells against damage from
pollution. The plant’s adaptation to extremely challenging conditions most
likely plays a key role in determining its
composition, which includes a variety
of potentially beneficial compounds.
www.ibrweb.com
Indena, Stand 7K19, presents their
Xilogel HS tamarind polysaccharide for
skin hydration, which achieves a quick
and perceivable increase in skin moistness. The active has been compared in
clinical trials to positive benchmarks
such as Sodium hyaluronate and betaglucan, and has been shown to be
comparable or superior in various parameters A technical presentation, on
a new Phytosome of the range, will
show how natural plant defense mechanisms may be exploited to protect the
skin.
www.indena.com
Induchem, Stand 7G50, has created
a new brightening molecule called
THBG-tri-hydroxy benzoic acid alpha
glucoside: Brigthenyl. This molecule is an alpha-glucoside derivative
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MARKETING EVENTS
Laboratoires Expanscience, Stand
7K20, introduces the new active ingredient Pixalia. By acting on the quantity
and quality of sebum, and on inflammation, this active ingredient provides
care for oily skin that is also displaying
mild acne.
www.expanscience.fr
Laboratoires Prod’Hyg, Stand 7K50,
introduces Prodhysoft ABK, which is a
non-hydrogenated plant-based butter
commonly known as Allanblackia Butter. Rich in oleic and stearic acids, this
African butter contains tocopherol.
photo: Univar
www.prodhyg.com
Formulations developed for the differing skin care and make up requirements
of women from a range of socio-groups
of THBA (trihydroxy benzoic acid) – a
potent but highly unstable tyrosinase
inhibitor. THBG is perfectly stable, is
water-soluble and is activated in situ
by the living veil called the stratum
microbium.
www.induchem.com
I.R.A. Istituto Ricerche Applicate ,
Stand 6J10, showcases its sun care
product Dermahyal Sun M, which is
made of cross-linked hyaluronic acid
with urea. Unlike other cross-linked
agents (which remain free in the products as residues and are potentially
harmful to health) the cross-linked
urea has a dermal affinity and a high
moisturising power.
www.iralab.it
J. Rettenmaier & Söhne (JRS), Stand
7Q54, presents its new Instant Refreshing Mask and Mousse, which conjures
up a fresh effect on skin, and its new
near-natural Cellulose Pearls that are
enriched with silicic acid and are abrasives that can be used in tooth paste.
These green polymers boast the advantages of renewable production;
biodegradability; are available in food
and pharmaceutical qualities; and are
even edible.
www.jrs.de
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COSSMA 4 I 2015
Jungbunzlauer, Stand 7H79, recently developed oral care formulations
containing zinc citrate which exhibit
plaque inhibiting properties. To help
meet current health trends and avoid
aluminium in antiperspirants and deodorants, the company offers a citrate
ester, which is a suitable active agent
in deodorants as it inhibits the enzymatic decomposition of sweat, while
at the same time providing excellent
softening properties.
www.jungbunzlauer.com
KahlWax, Stand 7C20, presents the
Myrica fruit wax KahlWax 6279L. It is
obtained from the berries of the Myrica
pubescens tree. Despite its low melting point, the fruit wax is exceptionally
hard. Used as an ingredient in hair
styling products, it provides good
hold and has been proven to improve
combability.
www.kahlwax.de
Kao Chemicals Europe, Stand 7G20,
presents Danox HC-30, which is a new
more sustainable and efficient hair
conditioning system. It improves handling, reduces the steps needed in the
manufacturing process, and can be
formulated at room temperature.
www.kaochemicals-eu.com
Lessonia, Stand 6K70, have
launched a new exfoliating ingredient
manufactured from volcanic lava – a
perfect ingredient for men’s facial and
body scrubs.
www.lessonia.com
Lipotec, Stand 6J50, will be launching a new product from marine biotechnology that fights against the three
main problems at the eye contour: eye
bags, dark circles and wrinkles.
www.lipotec.com
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Stand
6B50, launches the Happiness in a Jar
concept: new results on positive emotion and pleasure that are achieved upon application of the emulsifiers. In
addition to its efficacy, the pleasure
the customer gets from applying a
formula, with emulsifiers that contain
phospholipids, was scientifically
measured using various techniques
developed by specialists in psychology
and neuroscience.
www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com
Merck, Stand 6F40, see page 42 ff.,
launches RonaCare SereneShield,
which helps to relieve skin from the
susceptibility to acne by regulating sebum and reducing inflammation. In
addition, it supports skin health by rebalancing the skin’s microflora. It provides the solution with its 3R-Effect:
Rebalancing skin’s microflora by reducing the adhesion of non-beneficial
microflora on the skin, such as Staphylococcus aureus. At the same time, it
does not affect beneficial skin microflora such as Staphylococcus epidermidis; reducing inflammation by
lessening the growth of Propionibac-
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EVENTS
terium acnes to a notable effect; regulating sebum by reducing 5-α-reductase activity.
With its new Suprima effect pigments, Merck launches a quality brand
that groups several selected products
under one umbrella. For the cosmetic
market, Merck is launching the Ronastar Golden Jewel and Ronastar Noble
Sparks products under the Suprima
umbrella.
www.merck4cosmetics.com
Mibelle Biochemistry, Stand 7E40,
presents PhytoCellTec Nunatak, a stem
cell active based on a plant which survived the last Ice Age (see page 38 f.).
Saponaria pumila survived 10,000
years on ice-free mountain peaks –
called nunataks – and is highly resistant to environmental challenges, such
as extreme temperatures and UV-exposure. The plant cell culture technology
PhytoCellTec was used to produce
Saponaria pumila cells on the base of
dedifferentiated, stem cell-like plant
cells. RootBioTec HO is a potent basil
root extract that helps people regain
fuller and denser hair. The product is
based on the novel, sustainable hairy
roots technology. For the production of
this active ingredient, the company
cultivated basil roots in a large-scale
bioreactor. The active reduces hair loss
by inhibiting 5-α-reductase II activity
and by stimulating the dermal papilla
cells in hair follicles.
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
MARKETING
It’s awards’ time
At this year’s awards ceremony, the winners of Innovation Zone Best Ingredient, the Green
Ingredient Award, plus a new award to celebrate 25 Years of Innovation for the ingredients with
the biggest long-term impact in the personal care industry will be nonoured. Beiersdorf
selects, as part of The Beiersdorf Innovation Pitch, three outstanding show exhibitors who
will be announced during the ceremony. The awards ceremony takes place on April 14 th,
from 6.00–8.00 p.m. in Room CC5.1.
Micro Powders, Stand 7B15, introduces its Bioscrub products, which are
based on naturally-derived high molecular weight polyhydroxybutyrate
(PHB) powders that are produced from
completely renewable resources via
the sustainable bio-fermentation of
sugars.
www.micropowders.com
Naolys, Stand 6L52, launches the
plant cell complex InitialE [PT+TMG]
which is made from native cells of Polianthes tuberosa (tuberose) that contains not only their active molecules,
but also betaine (trimethylglycine) to
obtain a greater effect on eye contour.
As a natural plant cell complex dedicated to that fragile and possibly damaged area, it provides several benefits
at the level of the epidermis and dermis, such as moisturizing, soothing,
firming and detoxifying effects – all
proven by in vitro tests.
www.naolys.com
Naturex, Stand 7J40, will be highlighting a 100% natural purified extract
of quillaia (Quillaja saponaria). Due to
its high content of saponins, the extract is characterized by unique foaming properties. The company will also
be unveiling a 3-Step Routine – Skin
Radiance demonstration kit.
www.naturex.com
Olvea Vegetable Oils, Stand 6P50,
presents its new shea esters, designed
to offer a new sensory approach to
body and hair care formulation. They
have been developed thanks to the
company’s experience with its own
shea butter supply chain in Burkina Faso, and through its partnership with
the local women cooperatives. Silky
Shea imparts lightness, Glossy Shea
procures shine, while Creamy Shea
provides the perfect texture to cosmetic products.
www.olvea.com
Omya, Stand 7K60, launches its new
Crystal Natural Color Pigments in a
crystal form that enables easier handling as a result of dustless processing. The company also presents their
Natrue certified Color Dispersible (CD)
Reds. The three references originate
쑺
Beauty business in beautiful Barcelona
¡Hola! We are looking forward to meeting you in the Catalan capital to show our products
and latest developments. You are kindly invited to visit us in hall 7, booth No. 7H60,
in-cosmetics Barcelona | 14 - 16 April 2015.
COS1504_27_Incosmetic_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 26.03.15 13:59 Seite 34
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MARKETING EVENTS
stay healthy and keep its natural movement.
www.provital.org
Sederma, Stand 6D40, exhibits
Majestem (see COSSMA 3/2015, p. 33)
– an ingredient that reveals a visible
lifting action on the neck and face, and
helps recreate dermal matrix tension
through mitochondrial dynamism repair and extracellular matrix maintenance. By neutralising the oxidative
stress caused by pollution and irradiation, the active lifts the skin. The active
ingredient is derived from plant cell
culture and complies with the Chinese
regulation for cosmetic ingredients. A
second ingredient presented is dedicated to scalp care.
www.sederma.fr
photo: Thor
Seppic, Stand 6E40, launches
Sepimax Zen, a pre-neutralised thick-
Vegetable derived diester quat for suncare
emulsions, which leave the skin hydrated,
refreshed and sand-free
from the plants Purple Sweet Potato,
Red Radish and Elderberry, and show
excellent temperature and light stability. In addition, their range of natural
color pigments has passed BDIH and
COSMOS certification.
www.omya.com
Provital, Stand 7G40, presents Amaprot (an aqueous extract of Amaran-
thus caudatus seeds) that replenishes
the peptides and polysaccharides in
damaged hair fibers, therefore improving their combability and manageability. The extract is obtained after two
specific types of hydrolysis (an exclusive procedure of the company). The
active ingredient contains a large
amount of peptides and polysaccharides. Ama-oil is an amaranth oil that
restores the internal hair structure and
defies humidity for a long lasting hairstyle. Ama-leaf is an active that is obtained from the aerial part of the Amaranth that protects the hair from external aggressions and allows it to
preserve its structural integrity, therefore avoiding the potential oxidation of
lipids and proteins that help the hair to
34
COSSMA 4 I 2015
ener/stabiliser, officially listed China
IECIC. Simulquat HC 305 is used to stabilise hair treatment formulations and
to create a novel texture from sprays to
creams, and forms synergies with natural gums. Ceramosides HP is an original and patented combination of natural ceramides and omega fatty acids
that protect the skin from the loss of
elasticity. Geltrap is a patented environmentally-friendly emulsion technology. It provides a skin feel that conveys a sense of well-being, improved
emollience, water resistance and considerable energy savings – compared
to a traditional emulsion. Through its
subsidiary BiotechMarine, Seppic
launches Celebrity, a worldwide new
technology of macroalgae cell culture
in laboratory. Ephemer (also from
BiotechMarine) is a gametophyte extract that is taken from macroalgae
cells grown in a laboratory and harvested at an ephemeral stage in the life cycle of Undaria pinnatifida seaweed.
During this growth stage, the macroalgal cells accumulate anti-oxidant molecules. The active protects the skin
after 24 hours by acting on the mitochondria.
www.seppic.com
Shin-Etsu Silicones Europe, Stand
7E30, introduces TSPL-30-ID-F, a hybrid material consisting of naturally occurring and GMO-free pullulane, which
have been modified by silicone to boost
its performance. Two new film formers
will be introduced. In their respective
structures, the physical and chemical
properties of these organic co-polymers
have been modified through the introduction of silicone moieties. They can
provide benefits such as spinnability,
enhanced compatibility, wear comfort
or oil repellency.
www.shinetsusilicones.com
Sisterna, Stand 7F31, presents its
newest additions to its range of guide
formulations, including Dragon’s
essence gel-to-milk facial cleanser; as
well as Elves light body lotion, which
has a feather light skin feel; and nourishing Fairy Berry lip balm. Sisterna sucrose esters are a range of natural and
edible emulsifiers with a good performance and mildness. Furthermore,
they improve smoothness, emolliency
and the moisture level of the skin. A
wide range of products (HLB 0-16)
opens opportunities to use sucrose esters in many kinds of cosmetic application.
www.sisterna.com
Sonneborn, Stand 7R19, presents a
new generation of sensory enhanced
petrolatum products. Snowwhite Elegance, Sublime XS and Satin are a new
approach to petrolatum, in terms of
delivering performance and the desired sensory properties for personal
care formulations.
www.sonneborn.com
Surya Kimya, Stand 6D71, present
their new Lipozoom Reserve-Age – a
novel cosmetics carrier system that
contains natural trans-resveratrol
which is fermented from Polygonum
cuspidatum and Polygonum istanbulicum plant derivatives in liposome
technology. It not only stimulates regeneration of skin cells, but also prevents reactive oxygen species via appropriate size, zeta potential and antioxidant effects, and is mainly used as
an anti-aging and potential antioxidant for cosmetics. In addition, these
five products will be launched: Lipozoom Q-10, Lipozoom Sensitive, Lipozoom Vit-E, Lipozoom Cellution and
Lipozoom Hyage.
www.surya.com.tr
Symrise, Stand 7F20, focuses on A
day in the life of … with formulation
ideas for sensitive skin; products from
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EVENTS
the company’s flower extract collection; its plant juices; and its cosmetics
colour range. SymOcide PH is a broadspectrum liquid preservative blend
and is a one-product solution for cold
process formulations, such as shampoos, wipes and lotions. The components of the active have antioxidant
and moisturizing properties.
MARKETING
New silicone elastomer gels
imparting a special texture
www.symrise.com
photo: Wacker
The Innovation Company, Stand
7L50, presents the new fashion product range Creastar Pinkies. These
pearlescent pigments (with different
shimmering effects) combine colour
and texture, and offer a range of shades
in pink. The Pinkies range also comes
with four extra fashion colour effects.
www.theinnovationcompany.fr
with excellent moisturising, after-feel
and water/wear resistance.
Thor, Stand 7J70, highlights Microcare Quat DEG2, a multifunctional
www.tri-k.com
ingredient that produces velvety
smooth, hydrated skin with the added
benefit of proven sand-resistance. It is
a vegetable-derived diester quat, designed with an affinity to the epidermis, which enables the formulation of
light, non-tacky suncare emulsions
that leave the skin hydrated, refreshed
and sand-free.
Following research into the differing
skin care and make up requirements of
women from a range of socio-groups,
Univar, Stand 7E60, has been working
closely with its key suppliers to create
its own laboratory-developed formulations that will help it to respond to the
preferences of each profile.
www.univareurope.com
Wacker Chemie, Stand 6M20, debuts its silicone elastomer gels Belsil
EG 1 and Belsil REG 102. Both products impart a special texture to skincare products and decorative cosmetics, therefore leaving the skin feeling
soft and smooth. They also help the
end products spread easily over the
skin. Belsil REG 102, additionally, provides long-lasting effects by enhancing
water and transfer resistance.
AM
www.wacker.com
www.thor.com
TRI-K, Stand 6F60, is showing
TRIsatin, a self-emulsifying system
that is constructed with naturally derived ingredients that are designed to
mimic the skin’s natural lipid barrier. It
is extremely mild, non-irritating and
INSTRUMENTS FOR
After-shave
Creams
Liposomes
Lotions
Make-up
Nail varnish
Shower gel
Sun creams
UV filters
Delivering better scent experiences
For those looking to uncover new scent trends, as well as gain advice on formulating with
fragrances, the Fragrance Zone houses the latest fragrance ingredient innovations and
developments. Since its launch in 2013, the number of exhibitors in this zone has almost
doubled and total floor space occupied has more than tripled. More than 30 perfume and
fragrance exhibitors will be featured.
• Analyse home & personal care products & raw
material with our dispersion/stability analysers
• Comparative and predictive shelf-life analysis
• Real-time & accelerated separation
• ISO TR 13097 & ISO 13317/ 13318-2
in-cosmetics Barcelona 2015: Booth 6C60
Visit our innovation seminars on April 14 and 15
www.lum-gmbh.com
phone: +4930 6780 6030
COS1504_36_Kneipp_COS1406_22_Imogen_D 26.03.15 13:09 Seite 36
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MARKETING PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
‘Free from claims’: Meaningful or meaningless?
More and more consumers are looking for
products which are free from certain
ingredients. In order to meet consumer
expectations in this regard, marketing
divisions all over the world have jumped on
the bandwagon and attached a ‘free from’
label to their products. How should this
trend be viewed today, and what developments can be made out when we look to
the future?
photo: Alliance, Shutterstock.com
Even surfactants
can have preserving
properties
T
he mass media lives on scandals.
The food and cosmetics industries are among the most frequently affected areas. The mechanism
is always the same. Klaus Kocks calls it
the ‘rule of three of whistle-blowing
publicity’. ”An incident has been
brought to public attention, and blame
has been duly ascribed. The crime has
occurred, and fingers are pointed at a
perpetrator. Often those in the firing
line are those who – ever since
‘Casablanca’ – have been referred to as
‘the usual suspects’. Popular bogeyman stereotypes are invoked. The incident is understood to be representative of both a fundamental and a deplorable state of affairs. The exception
is the rule. Deliberate intent to harm is
attributed to the institutions that are
denounced by those concerned in order to apportion blame and come to
generalised conclusions …”
We Germans are world champions
in existential anxiety. ‘German Angst’
is an internationally understood term,
standing for the peculiar incapacity of
the Germans to distinguish between
real and imaginary dangers.
As a result, a profitable Angst industry has come into existence. Its theses – generally based on the opinions
of outsiders – have been globally disseminated by way of social media networks. The root of all evil is, in most
cases, a ‘single study syndrome’. The
psychologist and scientific journalist
Steven Pinker urges: ”Stop reporting
single studies, no matter how sexy
36
COSSMA 4 I 2015
(these are probably false). Report lit
reviews, meta-analyses.” But when the
next scapegoat comes to be hunted
through the virtual village, nobody can
do anything about it.
Consumers, meanwhile, are completely overwhelmed by the flood of reports and disclaimers, and respond by
simply not buying such products. ‘Free
from’ products therefore offer them a
safe haven. For example, 36% of all
Americans already purchase glutenfree products, without any concrete
medical reason to do so – this market
is continuing to show growth in double
digits!
How much sense do
‘free from’ claims make?
‘Free from’ claims do not always
make sense. But as advertising law
does not provide for a needs test, the
principle that applies is as follows: if a
consumer, for any reason whatsoever,
wishes to avoid a certain ingredient,
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then it is perfectly legitimate for the industry to comply with consumer demand in that respect. What is crucial is
that the basic statutory requirements
are met, and that the wording of the advertising industry remains within the
latitude of discretion that these allow.
A legal framework for
‘free from’ claims?
In Germany we have long had rules
to control deceptive practices, which
are enforced by the LFGB1 and the
UWG2. The EU Cosmetics Regulation
and the EU Regulation No. 655/20133,
and may therefore – at best – serve to
define things more precisely, but do
not really add up to anything new. ’Free
from’ claims must not include any discriminating statements, such as ’free
from toxic parabens’, and advertising
based on the obvious is also ruled out,
for example ’free from hormones’ – in
view of the fact that hormones are, in
any case, banned from cosmetics by
EU legislation.
Is ‘free from preservatives’ a
practical or useful criterion?
It is a more complicated situation
when we come to the claim ’free from
preservatives’. In an online survey carried out by Stiftung Warentest [the
COS1504_36_Kneipp_COS1406_22_Imogen_D 26.03.15 13:09 Seite 37
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
a view to ensuring a high level of protection of human health’. A milestone
date in this process will be
11.07.2016. This is when the Commission is due to present its report on the use of advertising for
the promotion of cosmetics to
the Parliament and the Council.
‘Appropriate measures’ will then
be taken, based on their findings. Among these measures
there might well be a ‘free from’
ruling in the form of a Regulation –
with an appropriate transition period allowed and (hopefully!) with a due
sense of proportion. A precipitate ‘free
from’ ruling – in the form of a Guideline
– would have the consequence, as an
interpretation of already applicable
law, that it must be implemented
immediately. This would, on the one
hand, result in considerable economic
damage, but, on the other, there would
be the risk of a wave of litigation, as
The average well-informed consumer is
aware that cosmetics must be protected
against microbial decay
photo: Grebcha, Shutterstock.com
wards ‘the absence of any kind of preserving substance’. This position presents practical advantages for supervisory purposes and is not in line with
what your average end-consumer –
who, as defined by EU legislation, is
“reasonably well-informed and reasonably observant and circumspect”
(cf. Appendix to EU Regulation no.
655/2013) – expects of a cosmetic substance. A ‘reasonably well-informed
and reasonably observant and circumspect average end user’ does not just
read the statement ‘free from preservatives’*. At the same time he/she takes
note that the product does indeed
have a certain shelf life, in view of the
specified sell-by date or period of use
stated, and is capable of drawing the
correct conclusions.
The well-informed ‘average end
user’ is aware that cosmetics must be
protected against microbial decay, and
is also aware of alternative methods of
preservation from his or her daily life.
So the legally clear definition ‘free from
preservatives’ is not associated with
deception or discrimination. It rather
reflects the vital and legitimate
consumer wish for products that
have been preserved by alternative
methods.
Planned extension
of market supervision
According to the expressed intent
of the regulatory authorities (Cosmetics Regulation Recital3), an extension
of ’in-market control’ is called for, with
photo: Nataliia Melnxchuk, Shutterstock.com
German consumer association for
product testing] in 2009, 34% of consumers welcomed the idea of preservatives being banned from cosmetic products. In view of the fact that
some preservatives are regarded
with suspicion (with justification in some cases, less justifiably in others), the percentage
could be significantly higher
today.
Article Two of the KMVO defines preservatives as ’substances
exclusively or principally intended
to check the development of micro-organisms’. Based on the type and the
quantity, they are regulated by The
Whitelist in Appendix V.
In formal and judicial terms, then,
the situation is clear. If a substance is
used both for purposes of preservation
and for other purposes, it depends on
the principal end envisaged in the concrete individual case. What is crucial
here is not the subjective notion of the
person who uses the substance, but
rather intended use that may be derived from objectively detectable
circumstances.
A great majority of substance classes (like perfume oils, solvents, surfactants and humectants) which, for the
most part, feature in formulations that
are intended for purposes other than
preservation, do nonetheless also have
preserving properties (even if at a low
level). It therefore follows that the call
for a ’complete absence of any kind of
preservation substance’ is altogether
too absolute and cannot possibly be
realised in practice.
As multifunctional substances generally have much weaker preservation
effects than authorised preservatives,
in the individual case it is ultimately
down to the skill and knowledge of the
person writing the formula to decide
whether it is microbiologically safe and
stable, even without preservatives as
defined by the EU Cosmetics Regulation. This calls for a high measure of
expertise and is therefore an expensive
procedure.
In light of this, the question that
needs to be asked is the following:
“How do the relevant sectors of the
public understand the expression ‘free
from preservatives’?” Opinion-formers
in the camp of the supervisory authorities, in particular, like to argue that
consumer expectations are geared to-
MARKETING
Products completely without preservatives
are not a feasible prospect
mere Guidelines are not legally binding. Such a development would in no
way represent an appropriate response
to the present state of affairs.
1
German Food and Feed Code* Conservation substances, as understood by the EU Cosmetics Regulation.
2
Act Against Unfair Competition
3
Commission Regulation (EU) lay down common criteria
for the justification of claims that are used in relation to
cosmetic products)
*Bibliographical references may be found online
(see Internet panel).
Dr. Rainer Wohlfart
Head of Research & Development
Kneipp, Würzburg, Germany
[email protected]
www.kneipp.de
COSSMA 4 I 2015
37
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PRODUCTION
INGREDIENTS
The next generation of stem cell cosmetics
Ice Age cosmetics
with Ice Age survivors
photo: Mibelle
Ice Age cosmetics based on stem
cells from extremophile Alpine
flowers which survived the Ice Age
PhytoCellTec Nunatak is the first active ingredient that is based on a rare flower that
survived the last Ice Age in the Alps. Beata Hurst from Mibelle Biochemistry shows that
the extract of Saponaria pumila stem cells effectively promotes the activity of dermal stem cells
and protects them from UV-induced stress.
T
he last Ice Age saw much of the
northern hemisphere covered in
ice. This climatic condition not
only represented a threat to mankind
and animals, but also to all plant
species. During this period, over 90% of
all terrestrial life vanished from the
northern hemisphere. Only truly robust organisms could quickly adapt
and survive the permanently cold and
dry climate. Although most alpine
plants could not survive, a small number of species escaped the ice by moving to Nunataks – rare ice-free moun-
38
COSSMA 4 I 2015
tain peaks. During the summer
months, in particular, there was some
water on these ice-free peaks that
could be absorbed by plant roots.
Alpine Nunataks created strongholds
that enabled a small number of plants
to survive the Ice Age.
Nunatak plants adapt
to Ice Age conditions
Saponaria pumila (Caryophyllaceae) belongs to the Nunatak plant
species, which developed special protection and repair mechanisms to
quickly and sustainably adapt to the
extreme conditions of the last Ice Age.
This extremophile plant, which features pretty pink flowers, can still be
found today in the Alps.
The survival characteristic of
Saponaria pumila is hidden in its stem
cells which, thanks to PhytoCellTec
plant stem cell technology, are now
available for skin care. This advanced
biotechnology allows cultivation of
the stem cells of this distinctive plant.
It is a method of sourcing raw material
which is considered an eco-break-
COS1504_38_Mibelle_GB_COS1409_30_Balluff_D 26.03.15 13:10 Seite 39
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INGREDIENTS
Trends
Statements
Innovation
PRODUCTION
photo: Mibelle
E-mail newsletter order
The extract of Saponaria pumila plant stem cells increases the vitality of
dermal stem cells and protects them from UV-induced stress
through in natural cosmetics. This resulted in PhytoCellTec Nunatak, the
active ingredient based on Saponaria
pumila stem cells being named runner-
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up at the Organic Monitor’s international Sustainable Beauty Awards in
November 2014. These awards recognize organizations that push the
boundaries of sustainability in the
beauty industry.
The next generation
of stem cell cosmetics
Stem cells are unspecialized cells
capable of self-renewing throughout
the lifespan of the organism. Adult tissues contain multi- or unipotent stem
cells, which indicate they can divide into more than one cell type or only one
cell type respectively. These adult stem
cells are responsible for a continuous
supply of new cells that are essential
for repair and regeneration. A perfect
example of this is the epidermis, which
is constantly renewed and repaired
throughout life. This process is essential to maintain the normal barrier
function and is mediated by adult stem
cells located in the basal layer of the
epidermis. Meanwhile, it has become a
global trend in cosmetics to protect or
vitalize stem cells in the epidermis.
Various in-vitro test systems using epidermal stem cells have been established, allowing claims for epidermal
stem cell actives.
z Yes, I want to be kept right up to date. I therefore agree
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Targeting dermal stem cells
What about the stem cells in the
dermis? Until now, cosmetic treatments have rarely addressed them despite the fact that they play a decisive
role in skin ageing. Fibroblasts – the
prominent cell type in the dermis – are
responsible for continuously producing collagen and elastin, which form
the extracellular matrix and confer
elasticity and firmness to the skin. Ageing skin is characterized by an increasing number of senescent fibroblasts.
These cells stop producing collagen
and elastin and even start to break
down the existing matrix. Only dermal
stem cells can replace these senescent
cells by new fibroblast cells. Stem cells
have only recently been identified as
helping to generate new fibroblast
cells. These cells are now the focus of
intense research in regenerative medicine and thus of interest for cosmetic
treatments.
It has been shown that the extract of
Saponaria pumila plant stem cells increases the activity of dermal stem 쑺
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COS1504_38_Mibelle_GB_COS1409_30_Balluff_D 26.03.15 13:11 Seite 40
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PRODUCTION
INGREDIENTS
exposed cultures, the sphere number
decreased by 48%. This treatment also
helped to protect against irradiation,
with the sphere number being 35%
higher in irradiated cultures compared
to the unprotected control. This indicates that the active ingredient enhances the stem cell characteristics
formation and proliferation of dermal
progenitor cells in cell cultures and
protects them, as well as protecting
against the harmful effects of UV and
visible light irradiation.
photo: Mibelle
Regeneration potential
of dermal stem cells
The dermal papilla as a niche of dermal
precursor cells
cells and protects them from UV-induced stress.
The dermal papilla is a reservoir of
multi stem cells lineages. Dermal
papilla cells are predisposed to grow in
colonies in spherical form.
However, the number of divisions
stem cells in adult tissues can undergo
is limited (Hayflick limit) and, as this
pool of cells is exhaustible, the lifespan of the tissue is limited. Identifying and treating dermal skin stem cells
has opened the door to the next generation of stem cell cosmetics: protection and vitalization of human dermal
stem cells for true regeneration of the
dermal matrix.
Effects after UV/VIS
exposure
In an in-vitro system, dermal progenitor cells isolated from the dermal
papilla were induced to form spheres in
a non-adherent culture using a fully defined CnT-DP-3D medium. To evaluate
the protective ability of PhytoCellTec
Nunatak, dermal papilla cells were cultured in monolayers and exposed to a
broad spectrum light source. After exposure, cells were seeded into a nonadherent culture, and sphere formation
of the dermal progenitor cells in primary sphere cultures was evaluated.
Treating dermal progenitor cells
with this active ingredient showed a
positive effect on the sphere number of
unexposed cultures (+21%). In UV/VIS
40
COSSMA 4 I 2015
Another study evaluated the size
of the spheres that were formed. This
provided an important indication regarding the quality of the dermal
stem cells. Small spheres (diameter
≤ 50 µm) regroup cells that have almost lost their capacity to regenerate.
Medium spheres (51 µm ≤ diameter
≤ 100 µm) regroup cells with a moderate renewal capacity, while large ones
(diameter ≥ 100 µm) regroup cells with
very good regenerative potential.
This test also exposed dermal stem
cells to a broad spectrum light source
(300 – 800 nm) at 3 J/cm2. In the control
culture, after irradiation, the largest
spheres disappeared and reduced the
proliferation capacity of the most vital
cells.
Conversely, in cultures pre-treated
with Saponaria pumila stem cell extract, the repartition of the sphere
size was almost entirely unaffected by
irradiation as the proportion of large
spheres remained at the same level.
This demonstrates Saponaria pumila
stem cells can maintain the renewal
potential of the dermal stem cells
despite environmental stress.
Re-densifying the
skin’s matrix
Twenty women aged between 44.2
and 59.5 with sun-damaged skin applied either a cream with 0.4% PhytoCellTec Nunatak or the corresponding
placebo twice daily for 28 days to the
inner side of their forearms. The density of their skin (epidermis and dermis)
was determined by ultrasonic measurements.
The ultrasonic wave generated
echoes when partially reflected at the
boundaries between different tissue
structures. The intensity of the reflect-
ed echoes can be evaluated and visualized in a colour image. The collagen
and elastic fiber structure of an intact
dermis yields many reflections that are
visible as bright colours on the ultrasonographic image.
However, disrupting this regular architecture leads to weaker reflections
and dark patches, as can be seen in the
ultrasonographic images at Day 0.
These subepidermal low-echogenic
bands are commonly found in aged
and photo-damaged skin. Applying the
active ingredient over 4 weeks re-densified the dermis by almost 10% compared to initial conditions.
Enhanced dermal stem
cell activity
Fibroblast cells are the most prominent cell type in the dermis and are responsible for the continuous production of elastin and collagen. These
two important structural components
build up the extracellular matrix, giving the skin its properties of elasticity
and tensile strength. Fibroblasts have
limited life expectancy and, with age,
become less active and decrease in
number. Consequently, senescent fibroblasts are no longer replaced by
new ones and the skin loses its elasticity and firmness due to the drop in
elastin and collagen production. The
recently discovered human dermal
stem cells were found to self-renew
and differentiate into dermal cell types
like fibroblasts.
Analyzing their stem cell characteristics showed that the extract of
Saponaria pumila stem cells effectively promotes the activity of dermal stem
cells and protects them from UV-induced stress. The first active ingredient
that is based on the rare flower that
survived the last Ice Age in the Alps
is PhytoCellTec Nunatak. Ultrasonographic images have shown that these
plant stem cells increase the density of
the dermal tissue, leading to a reduction of subepidermal low-echogenic
bands that are found in aged and photo-damaged skin.
Additional information can be found on the Internet –
see Internet panel
Beata Hurst
Head of Marketing
Mibelle Biochemistry
Buchs, Switzerland
[email protected]
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
COS1504_Clariant_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 18.03.15 12:55 Seite 1
5 2015
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Discover GlucoTain®.
HOW SHOULD CLEAN
FEEL FOR YOU?
A NEW SENSORY DIMENSION OF PERSONAL CARE.
GlucoTain® is a range of sugar-based and sulfate-free surfactants combining expert
care with cleaning power. It is the perfect solution for natural and mild products without
compromising on performance for hair and skin care applications. An innovation that
pleases the senses.
DISCOVER VALUE
WWW.CLARIANT.COM/GLUCOTAIN
A range of individual foam structures –
from fluffy to rich, from light to caring
feel – that’s GlucoTain®.
COS1504_42_Merck_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 26.03.15 13:11 Seite 42
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PRODUCTION
INGREDIENTS
Inspiring facts and ideas
for trend formulations
photo: Merck
products or colourful highlights for
eyes and lips. The diversified needs of
Asian skin, all over the world, can be
addressed as shown in the compilation
of 10 formulations developed by our
experts: The Beauty of Asia. To give only one example: all over Asia, women
focus on make-up around the eyes. Although there are different eye shapes,
they are usually enhanced by eyeliners
and mascara. The luminous eye liner
called Calligraphic Eyes combines a
bright black shade with precious golden highlights and contains Ronastar
Diamond Black IQ and Ronastar Golden Jewel – with low heavy metal content for sensitive skin.
Knowing the
Asian market
well is key to
a successful
market entry
Dr. Dagmar Kleefeld from Merck presents the latest insights into
the realities of Asian skin care and colour cosmetics; provides
suggestions for the younger generation; and presents the latest
findings concerning some of the company’s trend ingredients.
T
he fast growing region of Asia
has a special eye on premium
products on the one hand, and
on reliable mass-market products on
the other hand. In Asia, many consumers already have high expertise regarding cosmetics ingredients. Consequently the careful selection of the
selected ingredients is essential.
But inspiration comes not only
from the top three trend-setting countries Japan, China and Korea. In addition to regional perceptions of beauty
like a perfect, flawless light skin, there
are also country-specific colour trends
and tastes. And the needs of local consumers vary to a great extent. Japan, for
example, has the world’s oldest population, with an average age of almost
50. Consequently anti-ageing products
are of high importance. India, in contrast to this, has a higher focus on
colourful mass-market products as it
42
COSSMA 4 I 2015
has a much higher percentage of very
young consumers.
Our latest initiative – The Beauty of
Asia – discloses the latest beauty secrets from the diversified Asian market
in both, colour cosmetics and personal
care. All these findings are based on a
thorough analysis carried out by our
teams of local, regional and global
experts.
Whatever is desired is the focus:
beautiful light and flawless skin, high
UV protection for beauty, and skin care
Fun formulations for the
younger generation
YoungStar is a concept that explores shimmer, sparkle and protection for the younger generation, and
attempts to make children’s everyday products more attractive. The
Sparkling Dolphin tooth gel with Timiron Diamond Cluster MP-149 and Timiron Starluster MP-115 makes oral care
products stand out with a little silverwhite shimmer effect, and is appealing
to kids due to the bubble gum flavor.
The lip gloss Pretty Princess in a fruity
fresh pink colour and with a strawberry
flavor includes the interference pigment Timiron Super Red, which provides a subtle red shimmer effect.
Sun protection is one of the most
important areas in kids cosmetics. The
sun protection cream Petite Mermaid,
which contains the interference pigment Timiron Starlight Blue, leaves
some sparkle on the skin and is a deli-
Differences in Asian skin
Asian skin has a thinner outer layer (stratum corneum). It is more dehydrated and has the
highest TEWL (trans epidermal water loss). It is sensitive to environmental factors and chemicals, gets clogged easily, suffers from bigger acne scars, as well as deeper wrinkles
around the eyes and lips. It contains more melanin and is prone to pigmentation disorders
such as hyper pigmentation, freckles and melasma. It can often have a yellow undertone,
ranging from very light to tan. It is often sensitive and easily damaged. It tans easily and
is prone to pigmentation, which means that UV exposure can cause problems.
쑺
COS1504_NCD_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 23.03.15 07:00 Seite 1
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Visit our partner at the
In-Cosmetics Barcelona
EOC SURFACTANTS
7D60
GFN SELCO
7G30
IBR
6B51
NATURA-TEC
6P20
VARIATI
6F80
AMSILK – Innovative Biopolymers
AMSilk GmbH located in Martinsried near Munich is the worldwide first producer of silk proteins made
by a biotechnological process. These unique proteins are designed to comprise the outstanding properties of natural silk proteins and thereby differ essentially from commercially produced hydrolyzed
silk. Additionally they are manufactured in consistently high quality and are characterized by the
biotechnological production of non-animal origin and thus vegan. These functional proteins form an
effective, breathable protective film on the skin and have absorbent properties. The applications are
very versatile and comprehensive.
SILKBEADS – PERFORMANCE ENHANCER IN SEVERAL WAYS
Silkbeads improve the smoothness of your product and give it the famous „Silky Touch“. By absorption
of fats and oils on the skin appears the skin less shiny. Subsequently the water content of the skin will be
positively influenced.
SILKGEL – THE PROTECTION FILM FOR SENSITIVE SKIN
An invisible well adhering protective film that allows the skin to breathe. At the same time it protects against
external influences. Stressed skin can recover more quickly. Demanded skin is better protected.
NEW ADRESS
NCD Ingredients GmbH – simply good · Ruhrstr. 15 · 63452 Hanau – Germany
Fon: +49 (0)6181-30475-0 · Fax: +49 (0)6181-30475-29
[email protected] · www.ncd-ingredients.de
COS1504_42_Merck_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 26.03.15 13:12 Seite 44
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PRODUCTION
INGREDIENTS
photo: Mandy Godbehear
Balance to skin
Cosmetics products with a fun factor
photo: Chetty Thomas, Shutterstock.com
cately colored sun protection cream for
children of all ages. It delivers an expected SPF of 30.
The solvent-free nail polish Happy
Nails contains Xirona Magic Mauve and
Timiron Ice Crystal for a subtle color effect and is perfectly suitable for little
girls. Thanks to the gentle water-based
formulation, it has no harmful effects
on sensitive skin and nails. This skinfriendly alternative – for delicate shimmering effects on children’s nails – requires no nail polish remover. Applied
in two layers, the lacquer can be easily
peeled off from the nails without
stressing the sensitive areas.
The new effect pigment Colorona
Tangerine Orange is based on natural
mica and metal oxides, with a narrow
particle size distribution for a deep and
rich color. It can be used to refresh
colour cosmetic and personal-care
products. It is particularly suitable
for wax-based colour applications,
pressed and loose powders, emulsions
and water-based gels.
Active ingrdients:
Calcium – food for skin
Dry, scaly skin might be a symptom
of calcium deficiency. Calcium aids cell
and skin barrier renewal. RonaCare
Hydroxysomes Calcium strengthens
the body’s own skin shield and provides mineral protection against polluted atmospheres. The biocompatible
mineral-sourced active ingredient is
transported to the stratum corneum
and is slowly released. Calcium initiates cell differentiation and skin barrier maintenance by ”switching on” calcium channels and calcium receptors,
and supports skin renewal.
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• Reducing inflammation by lessening
growth of Propionibacterium acnes
to a notable effect and, with this,
helps to avoid the development of
inflammatory metabolites (porphyrins) caused by Propionibacterium acnes.
• Regulating sebum by reducing
5-α-reductase activity.
The benefit for consumers is shinefree and clear skin and, in addition, it
helps to make consumer’s skin less
susceptible to acne development and
skin irritation. The efficacy of this
active ingredient has been evaluated
in vitro and in vivo.
The information is based on Merck’s Kosmetik Forum,
January 27th, 2015
Additional information can be found on the Internet –
see Internet panel
A melanogenesis
stimulating agent
All over Asia, women focus
on their eye make-up
44
Colour saturation at its best
Most people associate oily skin
with teenage years, but for an increasing population, oily skin persists far
beyond their youth. A healthy and aesthetic skin complexion is key in many
areas of life; oily skin can be annoying
as it can lead to acne development as
well to a greasy, coarse and unevenlooking skin. RonaCare SereneShield
helps to relieve skin from the susceptibility for developing acne by regulating
sebum production and reducing inflammation. It additionally supports
skin health by rebalancing skin’s microflora. The active ingredient provides
the solution with its 3R-Effect:
• Rebalancing skin’s microflora by reducing the adhesion of non-beneficial microflora on skin like Staphylococcus aureus. At the same time, it
does not affect beneficial skin microflora such as Staphylococcus epidermidis.
COSSMA 4 I 2015
RonaCare Bronzyl helps to enable
tanning with a natural and even skin
tone, which in turn can contribute to
UV protection. A statistically significant difference in ITA could be shown
after 4 and 5 days in the verum treated
area, not in placebo and untreated
areas.
Dr. Dagmar Kleefeld
Marketing Communication
Performance Materials, Merck
Darmstadt, Germany
[email protected]
www.merck4cosmetics.com
COS1504_45_News_Packagin_COS1409_32_News_Packagin_GB 30.03.15 09:40 Seite 45
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NEW INGREDIENTS
NEWS
Tailor made skin care
solutions for China
Protein increases
moisture retention
TRI-K Industries I Developing a product that prevents dry
skin caused by the use of daily surfactants, especially in rinse-off
products, is a challenge. New data shows that Milk Tein NPNF
made from food grade milk powder instantly nourishes, hydrates
and enhances the feel of skin. Furthermore, with continued use,
it enhances film substantivity and increases moisture retention.
Additionally, this product is gentle on delicate/sensitive skin. For
all rinse-off products,
including body washes, shower gels, facial
washes, hand washes,
bar soaps, anti-bacterial soaps and face
masks, the ingredient
will provide nourishing
and moisturizing benefits.
www.tri-k.com
Ingredient made from
food grade milk powder
DSM I DSM’s recent in-depth consumer research conducted in Beijing
and Wuhan explored the beauty aspirations of Chinese women. The
new in-vivo study, conducted with synthetic peptide Syn-Coll among
Chinese volunteers, revealed that after just one month a formulation
containing 2.5% of this peptide outperformed a market benchmark in
the fight against lines and wrinkles. It also refined pore appearance,
improved skin texture and revealed a lifted, sculpted look – features
usually perceived as being vital for beautiful skin appearance by
Chinese women.
The research also provided deeper insights into people’s understanding
of how pollution affects their beauty. The active ingredient Regu-Scence
addresses the damaging effects of environmental aggression. It is a
China-listed (Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients) and Ecocertapproved, natural, standardized bioactive, which is derived from a fragile
white asparagus extract from the Spanish Navarra region. It is grown
in the dark and harvested before sunrise to preserve high levels of
saponins, which stimulate the skin’s own autophagy capabilities, staving
off the damaging effects of
pollution. Along with the study
results on its ageing prevention activity, customers are
providing new data, confirming the ability of this active ingredient to even out skin tone.
photo: DSM
Ingredients
www.dsm.com
Active ingredients that fulfil
the beauty aspirations
of Chinese women
Lab-cultivated macroalgal cells
Seppic I Through its subsidiary, BiotechMarine, Seppic has launched the new technology
Celebrity. With this technology, macroalgal cells are cultivated in the laboratory in order to propose active ingredients for cosmetics using the sea surrounding France’s Bréhat archipelago containing hundreds of species. With this unlimited potential in mind, the new technology has made it
possible to create a bank of macroalgal cells from many species whose compositions and effects
on skin have yet to be explored. Using in vitro macroalgal cells culture, which are found in very low
quantities in the ocean, a new marine source of active ingredients can be offered.
*BiotechMarine specializing in hi-tech bioactive natural substances, extracted from seaweeds and marine plants, has been a subsidiary
of Seppic since January 2013 and offers a wide range of 80 active ingredients, extracts and plant cells for personal care.
www.seppic.com
A new technology for a new marine source of active ingredients
photo: JPC-PROD, Shutterstock.com
photo: Mido Semsem , Shutterstock.com
PRODUCTION
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PRODUCTION
PACKAGING
PCD and ADF 2015
New approaches
to packaging
The Aerosol & Dispensing Forum (ADF) and the Packaging of
Perfume, Cosmetics & Design (PCD) brought together 5570
brand experts from 70 countries with 300 exhibitors showing
their latest developments. Here we feature some of the
highlights in the field of dispensing, colour cosmetics,
packaging materials and product decoration.
By simply turning the
six-position dispenser
head one stop, more
colour can be gradually dialled in
photo: Kurz
photo: Variblend
L
Inline foiling
delivers finishing capabilities previously
only available
for paper
applications
photo: Oekabeauty
Developed in
partnership with
an international
make-up artist,
this applicator
supports intuitive
use and precise
application
’Oréal’s brand Redken won this
year’s PCD packaging innovation
award in the category of Hygiene
& Hair Care for its Blonde Idol CustomTone daily conditioner, a dual-dispenser format that delivers a six-step
custom-blend regimen. This packaging
was supplied by VariBlend, manufacturer of custom-blending, dual-dispensing technology. The six-position,
custom-blending design of the VariBlend system allows end-users to plan
a personalised six-week hair regimen
by simply turning the dispenser head
one stop each week to gradually dial in
more colour. The dispenser’s design
provides solutions for a variety of ‘regimen-based’ product categories that
deliver a different multi-element formula over time, e.g. for skin care or
sunless tanning products. The proprietary dual-dispensing system is an alternative for products that require ingredient separation, offer shade/colour
regimens or need precise mixing and
blending at the moment of application.
Arcade/Bioplan launched a standard range of skin-care masks to cater to
the trend for masks and satisfy market
demand with a full-service solution.
The masks and non-woven pads now
offered are made of biocellulose or hydrogel and come as a standard item or
in full service, imbibed with a moisturising formula made in France, and
packaged at the company’s European
sites.
Increased benefits and
options for enhancement
Together with international makeup artist Max Herlant Oekabeauty
developed the Precision Applicator
whose shape and flexibility is inspired
by dense artist brushes. The curved
edge helps to achieve defined application on the upper lip and from the outer lip contour. While long fibres push
the lashes upwards shorter segments
of the new mascara brush Let’s Twist
Brush work as a reservoir. Due to the
good bulk transfer properties thick and
curly eyelashes can be created instantaneously.
The Thomas Group, a global supplier of metal components such as
aerosol mounting cups, ferrules/collars/actuator sheaths for fragrances
and customised premium cosmetics,
The golden lettering of the lipstick
is interlaced
with colour
46
COSSMA 4 I 2015
photo: Thomas Group
PCD Award winners 2015
The award-winning products were: Redken’s Blonde Idol Custom Dual Dispenser Highlight,
L’Oréal Professionnel’s Serioxyl, Estée Lauder’s Re-Nutriv Ultimate Diamond Sculpturing/
Refinishing Dual Infusion, Chanel’s Vitalumiere Loose Powder Foundation, Lancôme’s
Grandôise, Chanel’s Rouge Allure Gloss, L’Oréal’s Dazzle Rocks, Valentino’s Valentino
Uomo and Dior’s Elixir Précieux. These packagings qualified for certificates: Armani’s Sì,
Black edition, Yves Saint Laurent’s Kiss & Blush, Estée Lauder’s Re-Nutriv Ultimate Contouring Eye Lift, Lancôme’s Advanced Génifique Yeux Light Pearl, Armani’s Acqua di Gio,
Blue Edition, Guerlain’s L’Homme Idéal, Révive, Limited edition Artbox, Fendi’s Furiosa,
Nina Ricci’s La Tentation, Limited Edition, and Metsä Board’s Skincare Gift Box Set,
see page 48 ff.
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photo: Seufert
photo: Pujolasos
PACKAGING
The metallised varnish preserves
all of wood’s characteristics
presented the double anodised mascara Mystic from Helena Rubinstein
with ethnic design, and the Lolita Lempicka lipstick with unique ink application in the lower profile.
Pujolasos and Decopak Europ
showed the new line Luxury Wood, the
first metallised wooden cap for perfumes and cosmetics, developed by
the two companies. The technique
they developed provides a sophisticated touch, while preserving all of wood’s
characteristics. The metallised varnish
comes in a wide range of colours. The
product can also have a matt or shiny
finish, with metallic features added,
A sustainable and easy to assemble
packaging alternative for flacons
with graded colours and personalised
decoration.
Seufert’s new transparent packaging can also incorporate low migration
inks, carbon-neutral printing and sustainable materials. The eye-catching
design features three concave lenses
on a triangular base around the bottle
or flacon. The packaging is die-cut and
easy to assemble without glue, thanks
to tension-based closing.
Decoration options include leaving
the packaging transparent or introducing opacity or colour, offset and screen
printing, embossing and hot foil
stamping.
PRODUCTION
In cooperation with the machine
manufacturer Isimat, Leonhard Kurz,
the manufacturer of functional and
decorative coatings, has developed the
patent-pending inline foiling process
for transferring metallic layers onto
glass and plastic cylinders, such as
plastic tubes or glass bottles during
the silk-screen or flexographic printing
process. This is achieved by integrating
an inline foiling unit into the multi-staAM
tion printing machine.
www.bioplan-beauty.com
www.decopakeurop.com
www.inline-foiling.com
www.isimat.de
www.kurz.de
www.oekabeauty.de
www.pujolasos.com
www.thomas-holding.com
www.variblend.com
Winners of the
Aerosol & Dispensing Awards
The Aerosol & Dispensing Awards are designed to single
out technological innovations. This year the cosmeticsrelated awards went to: Axe from Lynx Unilever, Sofina
Alblanc Whitening Essence Activate Mousse from Kao,
Dry Mist New Aerosol Technology from L’Oréal, Glide
Aerosol Actuator from Aptar, 9-15 Fair Play Limit, PPG
Coating from Coster and Ice & Fire from Tubex.
NEWS 2015
PACKAGING
SKIN CARE
DECORATIVE COSMETIC
FULL SERVICE PRODUCTS
EYES | LIPS | FACE
HAND & NAIL
FULL SERVICE PRODUCTS
BRANDS & PRIVATE LABEL
g:
nishin
new fi s 3D
haptic
Nail Care Pen
innova tive
Co s m etic
Gm b H
bomo trendline
innovative Cosmetic GmbH
D-78664 Eschbronn
Fon +49 (0)7403 92246-0
www.bomo-trendline.de
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PRODUCTION
PACKAGING
Folding cartons
Combining creativity
with sustainability
the category of Eco-Beauty Paper in
Cosmopack’s The Wall Eco-Beauty Edition 2015. Thanks to a polyethylene
Folding cartons protect the product, but they are all the more
appealing to potential buyers if they are seductive eyecatchers. If, in addition to this, there are sustainable options, then
what more can you ask for?
Elegant casing for fragrances
photo: Pusterla
COSSMA 4 I 2015
Transforming
packaging into
something beautiful after use
photo: Edelmann
Lingerie
wearers have
known it all
along: packaging is a seducer
photo: Knoll Packaging
photos: Mktg Industry
Won this year’s
award for EcoBeauty Design:
the cardboard
make-up range
made of 100 %
recycled
cardboard
Knoll Prestige Packaging has both
developed and manufactured a coffret
for the crystal bottle of L’Amour Lalique
for Lalique Parfums. For this fragrance,
the House of Lalique has drawn its inspiration from the Land of The Rising
Sun, in particular from René Lalique’s
four stained-glass windows created in
the 1920’s for the ceremonial doors of
the drawing room in the Tokyo Palace
of the Japanese Prince Asaka Yasuhiko.
The fragrance bottle is situated on a
podium at the heart of the golden cage.
The golden cage is constructed from
board panels laminated with a gold
mylar and die-cut to create the doors.
The top of the lid is adorned by a golden zamac handle, allowing an easy
opening and closing.
Made in a round hat box shape with
telescopic cover, the women’s coffret
of Viktor & Rolf’s fragrance brands
Flowerbomb (designed for Valentine’s
Day) is wrapped with pink pearl paper,
calling vintage atmosphere. Its compact design with its elegant shape is
functional at the same time as being
suitable for everyday use, as well as for
professional make-up. Both lines
are available in three different sizes –
small, medium and palette. They can
be made using 100% recycled cardboard and paper. Cardboard packaging
for colour cosmetics tends to be produced in China with fairly long lead
times. The lead times for these cardboard boxes, which are produced a
100% in Italy, is no longer than 2 weeks.
Enhancing cardboard packaging to create a unique look is far more cost-effective than customizing plastic packaging. The newly created packaging won
an award in the category of Eco-Beauty
Design in Cosmopack’s The Wall EcoBeauty Edition 2015.
Pusterla’s concept of reusing their
packaging and transforming it into
something useful also won an award in
photo: Deutscher Verpackungspreis
C
ardboard – a material traditionally considered poor – has never before seriously been considered as primary packaging for cosmetics. However, in the expert hands of
technicians and designers it is becoming a attractive alternative to plastic.
The team of Mktg Industry has enhanced the properties of paper to create a line of high quality packaging for
make-up, and has just launched a new
packaging range inspired by the latest
cosmetic make-up trends. The PBB
line Petite Boîte à Beauté are standard
cardboard compact cases and palettes.
With this solution for pressed or baked
powders and hot poured formulas, a
complete collection of make-up products can be created. The two lines of
standard packaging include PBB Contemporary which is equipped with a
magnetic opening and closing system,
and PBB Vogue which consists of a
box-holder with a lid – a packaging re-
48
coating, a cardboard box can be turned
into a vase.
Multi-functional folding carton with integrated mirror
and built-in
LED lights
This fragrance coffret was inspired from René Lalique’s
stained-glass windows created
in the 1920’s for the ceremonial doors at Tokyo Palace
COS1504_48_Faltschachteln_COS1305_28_Cosmoprof_GB 26.03.15 13:14 Seite 49
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E-commerce changing
the world of packaging
With E-commerce growing, the online business boom also presents new
challenges to packaging manufacturers as consumers’ first contact with the
product is no longer always at the PoS.
Now, integrated augmented reality
tools and further add-ons play an important role alongside the tactile properties and construction of the packaging. The packaging becomes instrumental in successfully communicating
the brand’s identity and content.
Edelmann, a supplier of packaging
solutions made of cardboard and paper, offers options for multi-channel
communication which relies on technological concepts. In this way, the
packaging assumes a totally new role.
Product information in the form of
moving images can be shown on a mini-screen integrated into the folding
carton, and there are interactive competitions via touch code or near-field
communication (NFC).
One futuristic solution is a folding
carton for cosmetics with an integrated
mirror and built-in LED lights in order
to provide the brand with an appropriate lighting and to serve as a convenient
tool for putting on make-up at the same
time. Such multi-functional solutions
will increase in popularity in the future.
The LEDs are controlled via a circuit
board, with the battery being hidden in
a hollow wall of the folding carton.
Less spectacular, albeit a time-saving and simplifying solution for premium products, is the integrated liner for
folding cartons. These liners do not only protect the product, but also give the
impression of being high quality. The
assembly process – with such a fine
corrugated cardboard – is usually quite
complex. However, the new solution
simplifies this process by supplying
the folding carton with an integrated
liner. These liners can be provided in
the desired colour, are printable and
can come with booklets, sachets or
other add-ons.
Iggesund’s upgraded Invercote G
(with its new coating on the reverse
side) has improved printing properties
– in both offset and digital – without
compromising its natural feel. Thus,
good printability in digital applications and first-class packaging characteristics, in terms of designability, material stiffness and strength, can be
combined.
Creative ideas enhanced
with sustainable solutions
In this year’s PCD Awards, see page
46, the Metsä Board Skincare Box Set*
received a Certificate for the Sustainable Development and Respect of the
Environment. The glueless rigid box is
made using 100% recyclable paperboard, avoiding plastic wrapping;
while the inner cartons provide a
unique user experience.
By using no glue when constructing
the rigid box, drying time is eliminated,
thus speeding up the manufacturing
process. A PET window is inserted in
the lid, but can be easily removed before recycling. Corners look sharp and
precise, and there are no excessive layers of paperboard. If extra security is
required, the lid can be spot-glued to
the base, which cuts out the need for
extra plastic wrapping, which is common in this market segment.
Favini currently supports two major
international projects – a reforestation
project in Uganda and one for the generation of renewable energy in India.
Both are aimed at offsetting the environmental impact of its ecological
papers Shiro and Crush.
Eliminating
glue speeds
up the manufacturing
process
photo: Iggesund
while black matte paper is used for
the men’s fragrance Spicebomb. Both
are decorated with debossed and
silver hotstamped ribbons. The
woman’s coffret is accessorized with a
Viktor & Rolf’s seal that is centred
on the top.
RLC’s corsage packaging, as a seductive product wrapping, has been
inspired by ornate lingerie of the
Baroque and Renaissance periods. It
won the Swiss Star award and the German Packaging Award. The lacing of
the corsage looks three dimensional.
The one-piece construction also provides a double padding to protect the
contents. In spite of the unique form,
between 120 and 150 corsage boxes
can be quickly filled and closed in the
mechanical process with existing packaging lines. The packaging uses GZ or
GC material for an attractive appearance and is suitable for dispensers and
flacons with a diameter of at least
25 mm. An insert can be used for smaller products. To achieve a convincing
lacing effect a height of at least 100 mm
is required.
PRODUCTION
photo: Metsä Board
PACKAGING
Stiff paperboard which can be digitally
printed offers huge possibilities
Crush already features components
with low environmental impact – both
in terms of the materials themselves
and the energy used to produce this
ecological paper. For making this paper
process, residues from organic products such as citrus fruit, kiwi fruit, corn,
coffee, hazelnuts, almonds, olives,
cherries and lavender are used. Thus,
up to 15% of the cellulose of virgin tree
pulp can be replaced. It also contains
30% post-consumer recycled waste
and is produced with 100% green energy, which is self-generated from renewable hydroelectric sources. In comparison with other paper with similar characteristics that is made without
byproducts and uses conventional energy, Favini has managed to achieve a
reduction of 20% in its environmental
impact, in terms of greenhouse gases.
AM
*In December the box won the Championship for
Environmentally Friendly Printing in the Hong Kong
Print Awards 2014
Web-Tipps
www.edelmann.de
www.favini.com
www.iggesund.com
www.metsaboard.com
www.mktgindustry.com
www.pusterla1880.com
www.rlc-packaging.com
www.knollpack.com
COSSMA 4 I 2015
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PRODUCTION
PACKAGING NEWS
NEWS
Lip Balm now available
in lipstick version
Packaging
Total control from a tube
Quadpack I The new 15ml Dropper Tube from Yonwoo is the
first dropper on the market that offers perfect dosage according to
the supplier. No matter how hard or soft you squeeze, this tube actuates a liquid formula in 0.055ml drops – with each and every one the
same*. The tube allows a single drop to be placed on the fingertip,
for precise application to a local area. The one-drop-at-a-time system
uses a suck-back system to ensure accurate drop size. Any liquid not
completely actuated gets automatically drawn back into the tube.
Such precise control makes the tube perfect for oils and liquid
serums for targeted skin care and hair care treatments.
*Within a range of 0.060–0.054ml, www.quadpack.com
photo: Quadpack
photo: Topline
Tube precisely
dispenses one
drop at a time
Topline I Instant Light Lip Balm Perfector from Clarins, one of
the brand’s bestsellers since 2007, has just come out in lipstick version. This version offers a new option for consumers seeking a care
formula and the application gesture of a lipstick. The aluminium
packaging has the streamlined silhouette of a slim stick with a diameter of 10mm and sports the colours of the collection allowing
the consumer to easily select the colour of her choice from among
the six shades.
The body is colour lacquered in bulk, a complex technique when
working with
aluminium, but
the only
process that
gives homogenous coverage
and perfectly
matches the
colours with the
shades from
the collection.
The cap and
funnel are anodized in pale
gold. The
launch will feature a mini sampling version,
also created by
the company.
www.topline-usa.com
Lip Balm offering the application
gesture of a lipstick
photo: DSB Foto, Shutterstock.com
Link between packaging satisfaction and purchasing
MWV I Packaging Matters is the company’s third annual study of the impact of packaging on product satisfaction and consumer purchasing behaviour. This year it examined the attitudes of consumers in the five markets Brazil, China, Germany, France and the United States
across 11 FMCG product categories including personal care. The study shows global consumer satisfaction is strongly linked to purchase intent and brand loyalty. While a majority say new packaging is headed in the right direction, there are significant current gaps between the importance of product packaging and how brands are meeting consumer needs. Consumers are clear on how to close this gap: with targeted
innovations related to functionality and safety.
Pete Durette, senior vice president, MWV, said: “Consumers continue to want more from packaging, especially when it comes to function and
safety.” Consumers who are completely satisfied with packaging engage in sought-after purchase behaviours more often. These consumers
are more likely than their less satisfied peers to purchase and use products frequently (57% v.
47%), shop frequently both in-store and online (24% v. 17%), and try something new because
As only just
of packaging (44% v. 36%). Similar to last year’s study, Packaging Matters data show 31% of
over 10% are
completely satglobal consumers consider packaging very or extremely important to their overall satisfaction
isfied with
with consumer products.
packaging this
37% of consumers have tried a product because packaging caught their eye or purchased a
leaves an opproduct again because of packaging functionality. In geographic distribution, packaging is
portunity for
most important to consumers in developing markets (China and Brazil), where trust in the
brands
supply chain is not as strong as in developed markets (France, Germany and the United
States).
More than 1 in 3 consumers say packaging is very or extremely impactful to their purchase
intent in the field of beauty, personal care and fragrances.
When it comes to retail channels, packaging is considered more important to in-store purchases (57%) than online purchases (43%), but that gap is closer than some might think. China was
the only country in which a majority of consumers (65%) say packaging is more important for
online purchases. Those who say packaging is very or extremely important to their satisfaction
are also more likely to increase the frequency with which they shop online in the future.
The study shows that 83% of global consumers are at least moderately satisfied with packaging, but just over 1 in 10 is completely satisfied, leaving an opportunity for brands.
50
www.mwv.com/packagingmattersstudy
COSSMA 4I 2015
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PRODUCTION
PACKAGING NEWS
NEWS
Korea’s ‘Cushion Boom’
changes global beauty trends
Packaging
Applicator for active ingredients
Linhardt I The Beauty Pen is
an applicator with an aluminium
or a plastic shaft for fluid cosmetics. The product can be applied in a targeted, accurate,
and also large-scale manner as
easily and dosed as precisely as
with a marker pen. The quantity
per application is modifiable.
photo: Linhardt
www.linhardt.com
For the precise application
of active substances
Cleansing brush
Cosmogen I Cosmogen has designed a specific brush for cleansing and purifying care. Its natural fibre is treated with activated charcoal with antibacterial properties. It combines its antibacterial power
with its power of penetration into the pores to keep them clean, even
in hardtoreach
places. The brush is
particularly recommended for sensitive
skin.
AmorePacific I Cushion refers to a make-up compact
built with aspecially designed urethane foam that safely contains and preserves make-up liquid comprised of foundation,
sunscreen and skin-care formulations. Already popular in
Korea, Cushion has more recently gained keen attention in
the global cosmetics market.
AmorePacific began research for the product in 2007 with
the aim of developing a multi-functional sun protection product that is easier to carry and apply than conventional tube or
pump-type products. They conducted over 3,600 tests using
200 different types of sponges. Since the introduction of
Iope Air Cushion in March 2008 more than 15 upgrades
have been conducted since the first launch. In addition, the
company has filed for 114 patent applications and registered
13 patents in Korea, China, Japan, US, and Europe.
In 2014, the entire production procedure was automated.
The company now offers a total of 19 cushion products from
its 13 brands in more than ten countries in the Asian and
North American regions.
A study conducted by the global research firm TNS Korea
that surveyed 800 Korean female consumers found that due
to its portability and its convenience 75% of Korean women
have used or are currently using cushion products. Moreover,
the survey showed that Cushion reduces the steps and time
needed in creating the skin-looks they prefer. 75% said that
since using Cushion their make-up routine was shortened,
and 76% replied that they were now easily re-applying makeup and sunscreen. 55% of women responded that it was
their sole base make-up product.
www.amorepacific.com
photo: AmorePacific
Its natural fibre is
treated with activated
charcoal with antibacterial properties
photo: Cosmogen
www.cosmogen.fr
75% of the Korean
women surveyed
maintained that the
use of a cushion product shortened their
make-up routine
Bioplastic containers from vegetal raw material
Lameplast I After having launched the first injection-moulded single-dose in Green Polyethylene* (Bio PE), the company now offers a full
range of bioplastic containers made from vegetable raw materials as an alternative to those made from oil-based plastic. The biopolymers
can now be used to make single-dose and multi-dose containers for cosmetics and personal care products.
Unlike traditional plastics, Green Polyethylene is not made from oil, but from ethanol obtained from sugar cane, and has the same technical
characteristics, appearance and versatility as traditional fossil-based polyethylene, as well as many other benefits. The renewable GMO-free sugar
cane from Brazil used by Braskem for producing Green Polyetylene fulfils
the sustainability standards defined in the Braskem Code of Conduct.
As sugar cane captures and holds CO2 from the atmosphere during every
growth cycle it contributes to reducing greenhouse gas emissions. At the
end of its lifespan Green Polyethylene can be recycled in the same chains
already developed for conventional PE.
photo: Lameplast
*The Bioplastic used by Lameplast Group is I’m Green Polyethylene by Braskem distributed from
FKuR Kunststoff
www.lameplastgroup.com
52
The biopolymers can now be used to make single-dose and
multi-dose containers for cosmetics and personal care products
COSSMA 4 I 2015
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ADVERTISEMENT
EVENTS
Meding offers more individuality in new series
More feeling and individuality in cream jars
Plastics specialist Meding has just extended its portfolio. To meet the current demand for individuality,
it has added a design-oriented line of superlative quality products to the existing range of cream jars
and spatulas.
photos: Meding
for the medical and cosmetics industries. Its service portfolio is geared to
these sectors – from product development by way of mould making to the
manufacture of the plastic product itself. The company also offers services
including the printing and upgrading
of the plastic products it supplies.
Meding has added a design-oriented line of superlative quality products to the existing
range of cream jars and spatulas
I
n response to feedback from existing
customers and the results of its own
market research, the plastics specialist has developed and implemented a new product strategy. The result is
a completely new line of products
which does justice to the demands and
high quality expectations of the customer.
‘There is nothing new about producing a product that is entirely designed to meet customer preferences,’
says Stefan Pietzner, the managing
Director. ‘What is new is our shaping
these preferences in a more individual
way, and handling them more flexibly.’
In order to meet high expectations in
terms of visual appearance, Meding is
embarking on new paths in development, design and manufacture. In addition, the company is also responding
with greater flexibility in its technical
capacity to deliver and logistical handling.
‘We will be offering the market a
wider choice of designs,’ Pietzner continues. Meding offers both the cream
jars and the spatulas in different sizes,
colours and design variants. According
to individual preference, customers
can opt for an article in a shiny chrome
or in a gold finish. The company’s
own printing works also offers various
options for applying a logo to the
products.
Meding follows the trend
with bioplastics
Meding is particularly keen to rely on
plastics that do not have any physiological side-effects. Bioplastics can also be
used for production when required. This
is an area where the company is experiencing increasing demand. ‘Customers
don’t just want to have standard jars
that have come off a production line,’
Stefan Pietzner explains. ‘They want
their own individual and emotionally
charged packaging, because this gives
their product the necessary elegance
and prestige and creates an additional
incentive to purchase.’
The Sauerland-based company specialises in the manufacture of products
New designs to meet
customer preferences
Further Information:
Meding GmbH
Kruppstraße 8
58553 Halver, Germany
Phone: +49 2353 - 9158-0
Fax: +49 2353 - 9158-28
[email protected]
www.meding.com
쑺
COSSMA 4 I 2015
53
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EVENTS
ADVERTISEMENT
China Beauty Expo: The gathering point
for global industry professionals, covering
140,000 sqm of exhibition area
photos: China Beauty Expo
tion, business development, exchange
of the latest technology and market
information, supplier sourcing.
China Beauty Expo
19–21 May 2015
China Beauty Expo (CBE), Asia’s largest beauty trade show, is set to take place
in Shanghai from 19–21 May 2015, and will build on its success from the
19th edition last year. CBE 2014 welcomed more than 252,000 visitors from
80 countries and regions, as well as hosted 1,837 exhibiting companies.
C
ommemorating its 20th anniversary, China Beauty Expo
2015 will once again be the
gathering point for global industry professionals, covering 140,000 sqm of
exhibition area. 2015 will welcome exhibitors from 27 countries, including
new exhibitors from Australia, India,
Israel, New Zealand, Switzerland, UK
and USA.
first edition of „CBE – Beyond Beauty
Trends 2015“, a conference program
specially designed to showcase upcoming global beauty trends. The exciting lineup of speakers include Beautystreams (USA), Capsum (France), Firmenich (Swiss), Pochet (France) and
Seyco (Beijing).
Asia Brand Building Lab
In order to meet the increasing
needs of Asian cosmetics manufacturers for raw materials and ingredients,
and to provide the latest market trends
and leading technologies, CBE presents Beauty Ingredients & Formulation
Shanghai 2015, along with the support
from relevant industry authoritative
academic organizations, research institutes and administrations. The BI&F
will be held alongside Shanghai CBE
2015. With the existing strong base of
CBE’s huge number of brand manufacturers and its strong influence in the
industry, BI&F will provide the cosmetics ingredient suppliers with numerous
client resources and trading opportunities. As an integrated part of the supply chain, BI&F will facilitate the cosmetics R&D progress, brand promo-
New at CBE 2015 is the Asia Brand
Building Lab (ABBL) – a unique space
dedicated to reinventing and consulting for Asian beauty brands. Partnering
Centdegres, an independent creative
agency with over 30 years of international and local expertise in the beauty
industry, ABBL offers possibilities and
opportunities for Asian beauty brands
to stand out from the crowd by receiving ideas and advice on image creation, advertisement positioning and
retail strategies on WeChat from the
world’s top designers, alongside international brands.
Beyond Beauty Trends
CBE will also welcome a selection
of international speakers to lead the
54
COSSMA 4 I 2015
Beauty Ingredients & Formulation Shanghai 2015 (BI&F)
CBE Key Statistics
• Over 2,000 exhibitors from more
than 80 countries and regions
• 140,000 sqm of exhibition area, including international exhibitors
from 27 countries
• 252,000+ visitors in 2014
http://chinabeautyexpo.informaexhibitions.com
About China Beauty Expo
China Beauty Expo is the leading
beauty trade show in Asia and China’s
most influential trade platform for international cosmetic companies entering the Asian beauty market. It is the
key beauty and cosmetic exhibition
promoted by the Chinese Ministry of
Commerce. It comprises of three
segments – COSMETICS CHINA,
BEAUTY SHANGHAI and COSMETECH
SHANGHAI.
About Informa
Informa plc is one of the world’s
leading business intelligence, knowledge, and events businesses, with
more than 8,000 employees in over 150
offices across 150 cities. Informa is
structured around four Operating Divisions: Academic Publishing, Business
Intelligence, Knowledge & Networking
and Global Exhibitions to which Informa Beauty is affiliated.
With the creation of the INFORMA
BEAUTY cluster, Informa has reinforced its strong presence and leading
position in the global Beauty events
market, creating a powerful network of
Beauty events globally. The Informa
Beauty portfolio includes China Beauty Expo, Cosmeeting and Creative
Beauty Paris, Spameeting and Cosmeeting Business Meetings and Beyond Beauty Asean. Informa Beauty’s
events span the full spectrum of the
Beauty sector, including Packaging,
Contract Manufacturing, Ingredients,
Full Service, Nutricosmetics, Fragrances (both ingredients and finished
products), Wellness & Spa, Hairstyling
and Healthcare, catering to the mass
market and the luxury sector.
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SERVICES INGREDIENTS
Essential oils: Current import prices in €/kg
April 2015
Amyris, Sandalwood, West Indies
Anethol from star anis
Bergamotte “Reggio”
Buccu leaf “Betulina”
48.50 firm and somewhat
scarcer
19.25 stable
88.50 stable
350.00–590.00 practically no movement
Cananga
Caraway seed, Balkan/Holland
Cassia, China
Cedarwood China
37.50–50.00 stable
16.50 firm
24.00 firm
21.50 firm
Celery seed, India
Citronella, China, 85/35%
94.00 somewhat weaker
21.00 stable
Citronella, Java, 85/35%
Clove leaf, Madagascar
21.00 stable
17.50–20.00 somewhat weaker
130.00–150.00 firm at a very high level
31.00–41.00 tendancy to be stable
for the time being
Eucalyptol, min 99% (1,8-Cineol)
18.50 almost unchanged
Eucalyptus citriodora, Brazil, min. 75% 20.00 very little movement
Eucalyptus citriodora, China, min. 75% 20.50 very little movement
Eucalyptus, China, 80/85%
14.50 stable
Eucalyptus staigeriana
Fennel, seed
27.00 firm
33.50–62.00 firm
Geranium, Egypt
Geranium, China
90.00 stabilised
165.00 very firm
Ginger, India/Cochin
Grapefruit white
160.00 weak
29.00–46.00 tendancy to be firmer
Guaiacwood, Paraguay
Howood, min. 85%
22.50 unchanged
37.00–47.00 very firm, good quality,
still scarce
Juniper berry
Lavandin abrialis
210.00–450.00 stable
28.00 firm, somewhat scarcer
Lavandin grosso
27.00 firm, free quantities,
scarce
105.00 prices still firm,
almost completely sold
out at source
Lavender, Bulgaria
Lavender, France, 40/42%
Lemon, Messina, winter harvest
Lemon grass, Cochin
Limette, distilled,
Mexico/West Indies
Litsea cubeba, China, min. 75%
Menthol, China, BP/DAB
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COSSMA 4 I 2015
Note: The €/$ exchange rate has an
impact on several prices and
at times has a greater impact than
percentage price changes at
source.
69.00 almost unchanged
38.50 stable
Cedarwood Florida/Virginia
Cedarwood Texas
Coriander
Dill, Balkan
Prices ar ex-works Germany,
customs cleared in the EU
130.00 firm and scarce,
almost all sold
36.00 stable for the time being
17.00 somewhat firmer
nom. 47.00 stable for the time being
21.00 stabilised
17.50 volatile, prices day by day,
local sales are scarce and
costly
Menthol, India, known brands
Mint (Pepp. arv.), China
Mint (Pepp. arv.), India
17.00 volatile, prices day by day,
local sales are scarce
and costly
15.00 volatile, prices day by day,
local sales are scarce
and costly
Nutmeg, Indonesia
15.00 volatile, prices day by day,
local sales are scarce
and costly
83.00–94.00 still weaker
Nutmeg, Sri Lanka
Orange, bitter, Brazil
77.00–89.00 still weaker
63.00 still very firm
Orange, Brazil
Orange, Florida/Valencia, CP
Palmarosa, East Indies
Parsley seed
Patchouli, Sumatra extra
Pepper, India
Peppermint, American
Peppermint, Indian
Petitgrain, Paraguay
Rosemary, North Africa,
Morocco/Tunisia
Rosewood, Brazil
Sage, Dalmatian, offic., 30%
6.30–6.95 firmer
6.90–7.40 firmer
35.00 somewhat weaker
165.00 unchanged
84.00 stabilised
100.00–130.00 somewhat weaker
70,00–85.00 still stable, firm undertone
26.00 stabilised
49.00 very scarce and very firm
nom. 45.00 scarce, expensive
nom. 390.00 small quantity available
sporadically( CITES!)
75.00 stable
Sandalwood, India
nom. 2,800.00 very firm, legally sold oil
almost unavailable
Spearmint, Am. Native/Scotch 60.00–63.00 continues to be firm
Spearmint, India 60%
Spruce needle, Siberia
27.00 almost unchanged
25.00 firmer, somewhat scarcer
Star anis, China
Vetiver, Haiti
16.50 practically unchanged
200.00 somewhat scarcer, firm
Vetiver, Java
165.00 heavy increase, scarce
COS1504_Seite_57_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 18.03.15 12:59 Seite 1
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Als stark expandierendes Unternehmen gehören wir seit über
50 Jahren zu den führenden Kosmetikherstellern. Wir vertreiben
unsere hochwertigen Pflegeprodukte in Kosmetikinstituten
und exklusiven Spas. Neben unserer Biomimetic SkinCare bieten
wir auch eine umfassende nach COSMOS ORGANIC zertifizierte
Biolinie an.
Zum nächstmöglichen Zeitpunkt suchen wir für unsere Abteilung
Forschung & Entwicklung einen
Mitarbeiter (m/w)
für die Entwicklung kosmetischer Produkte.
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
Ihre Aufgaben:
Eigenständiges Durchführen von Entwicklungsprojekten von
der Idee bis zur Chargenfertigung mit sämtlichen dazugehörigen
Teilaufgaben wie:
Bestehende Rezepturen weiterentwickeln und optimieren
Rezepturen für Neuentwicklungen nach diversen Vorgaben
erstellen
Herstellung von Entwicklungsmustern im Labormaßstab
„Scale up“ der Rezepturen vom Labor- in den Produktionsmaßstab
Selbständige Koordination und aktives Vorantreiben der
Entwicklungsprojekte unter Einhaltung der zeitlichen Vorgaben
Gewissenhafte Dokumentation der Versuchsergebnisse
Eigenständige Verwaltung der Rückstellmuster und Rezepturen
Recherche hinsichtlich neuer Rohstoffe und Rahmenrezepturen
und Korrespondenz mit Rohstofflieferanten
Ihr Profil:
Wir erwarten eine fundierte Ausbildung in Form eines abgeschlossenen naturwissenschaftlichen Studiums mit entsprechender Spezialisierung oder Studium
der Kosmetikwissenschaft bzw. eine vergleichbare Qualifikation. Außerdem
zeichnen Sie sich durch hohe Teamfähigkeit und Kommunikationsbereitschaft
sowie eine gut strukturierte, zielstrebige und kreative Arbeitsweise aus. Mehrere
Jahre Berufserfahrung im kosmetischen Labor setzen wir für diese anspruchsvolle Aufgabe voraus.
Wir bieten:
Sie erwartet eine abwechslungsreiche Position im Angestelltenverhältnis mit
kurzen Entscheidungswegen in einem modernen, inhabergeführten Unternehmen,
eine intensive Einarbeitung, ein attraktives Einkommen, sowie entsprechende
Sozialleistungen in einer der schönsten Regionen Deutschlands – dem Chiemgau.
Bitte senden Sie Ihre vollständigen Bewerbungsunterlagen gerne auch per E-Mail
mit Angabe des frühestmöglichen Eintrittstermins und Ihrer Gehaltsvorstellung an:
Dr. Spiller GmbH
Personalabteilung
Voglinger Straße 11
83313 Siegsdorf
[email protected]
Telefon 08662 49840
www.dr-spiller.com
Trends
Statements
Win a free of charge one year
COSSMA E-paper subscription
Innovation
With a bit of luck you might
win one of 50 one year
COSSMA E-paper subscriptions
(worth 99,– EUR)
Take your chance and
register now:
www.cossma.com/winner
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18
Tel: +49 (0)721 165-131 Fax: +49 (0)721 165-103
76133 Karlsruhe
Germany
[email protected]
COS1504_58_Formulierung_COS1409_36_Formulierung_D 26.03.15 13:17 Seite 58
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SERVICES FORMULATIONS
In our May issue we will be focussing
on formulations for natural cosmetics. In June it will be the turn of
sun care.
All of the information published here has been
carefully assembled.
However, neither the
publishers nor the developers of these formulations can accept
responsibility for their
safety or accuracy.
F
Masks + more
If you are interested in inspiring formulations for masks, treatments
and exfoliants, you might find our selection of 29 different formulations helpful. The formulations we have compiled from a broad
range of suppliers presents some new ideas. Most of the formulations presented here have taken the traditional categories into
new dimensions. And this is precisely the approach to take if you
want your new product launches to be a real success. They are
available for download free of charge from our website at
www.cossma.com/qr00002*.
rom the formulations presented
here, we found the ideas for
hair care, foot care and facial
masks of particular interest. While a
sprayable hair conditioner might
sound fairly common; a “Night Repair”
Sprayable Hair Conditioner as presented by BASF will fulfill the needs of consumers who want to save time in their
grooming routine. Consumers interested in trying out new textures might
find Croda’s Scoopable Hair Soufflé
appealing. Somewhat less spectacular,
but nonetheless essential for consumers, is CLR’s Moisturizing Hair
Mask. In contrast to this, Evonik addresses hair care from an ethnic perspective with their Afro Textured Hair
Dressing Cream.
Balancing Face Mask
A. Brasca
Moisturizing Hair Mask (O/W)
CLR
O/G Exfoliating Gel
Lucas Meyer
Revitalizing Hydration In-Shower
Lotion
AkzoNobel
Scoopable Hair Soufflé
Croda
Fresh Avocado Mask
Merck KgaA
Cracked Heel Cream
Dr. Straetmans
Exotic Mineral Facial Cleanser –
3 in 1
Nordmann, Rassmann
Volcanic Body Scrub
Alfa Chemicals
Anti-Fatigue Detoxifying Cream
Ashland
Time to SPA
(Massage-Peeling Oil Gel)
Azelis
Downloads
Additional information can be found
at www.cossma.com/qr00002
or you can just scan the QR code!
Your access codes for April:
User name: cossma4
Password: body
Shower Scrub Regeneration 4 Men
Eckart Altana
Afro Textured Hair Dressing Cream
Evonik
Conditioner with Inca Inchi
Greentech
Among the masks presented,
Brenntag’s Chocolate Mint Foot Mask
seems to be a striking idea. The Soothing Wet Peel-off Mask presented by
Bayer Material Science will be an inter-
esting option for people who enjoy
testing new textures.
With spring starting soon, cooling
products will increase in popularity.
Lonza’s Cool Breeze O2 Facial Mask
could be a convincing product idea.
*Access codes for downloading the formulations can
be found on the Internet panel on this page
Clay Mask
Protameen
Non-Stop Anti Cellulite Treatment
Provital
Exfoliating Shower Gel
SACI-CFPA
”Night Repair” Hair Conditioner,
Sprayable
BASF
Eternal Youth Anti-Aging Skin
Treatment
HallStar
Soothing Wet Peel-off Mask
BayerMaterialScience
Acne Treatment Lotion
Lipo Chemicals
Facial Mask Lotion
Sino Lion
Rinse Off Conditioner
Biesterfeld
Cool Breeze O2 Facial Mask
Lonza Personal Care
Gel-to-Milk ”Peach” Scrub
Sisterna
Chocolate Mint Foot Mask
Brenntag
Coconut Full Nourishment Cream
Lubrizol
Peeling Shower for “Dirty” Men
Zschimmer & Schwarz
Pacify Mask
Sederma
COS1504_59_Kalender_COS1409_39_Kalender_GB 26.03.15 13:18 Seite 59
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EVENTS
Fairs, conferences and seminars
2015
When?
What?
Where?
Who?
14.–16.04.2015
In-Cosmetics
15.–16.04.2015
MakeUp in Seoul
15.–16.04.2015
LuxePack Shanghai
16.–17.04.2015
16.–18.04.2015
DGP-Fachtagung
Natur und Gesetze
interCharm Professional
17.–19.04.2015
Cosmofarma Exhibition
18.–20.04.2015
BEAUTY FORUM GREECE SPRING
Barcelona
Spain
Seoul
South Korea
Shanghai
China
Bad Boll
Germany
Moscow
Russia
Bologna
Italy
Athens
Greece
Reed Exhibitons
www.in-cosmetics.com
Beauteam SAS
www.makeup-in-seoul.com
Idice SAS
www.luxepackshanghai.com
Deutsche Gesellschaft der Parfümeure
www.dgp-die-parfumeure.de
Reed Exhibitions
www.intercharm.ru/en
SoGeCos
www.cosmofarma.com
Beauty Greece Tsirimokou
[email protected]
19.–20.04.2015
21.–24.04.2015
Natural & Organic
Products Europe
Hispack
25.–26.04.2015
BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG
London
Great Britain
Barcelona
Spain
Leipzig
Germany
Diversified
www.naturalproducts.co.uk
Fira de Barcelona
www.hispack.com
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Natalie Karszt, [email protected]
www.beauty-fairs.de
28.04.2015
Seminar: Kosmetikrecht
best practices
Conference of the Asian
Societies of Cosmetic Scientists
SEPAWA-Fachgruppe
Angewandte Kosmetik
„Cosmetics around the World“
NYSCC
Suppliers’ Day
Luxe Pack
New York
Sustainability Summit
Frankfurt a.M.
Germany
Cairns
Australia
Düsseldorf
Germany
Cosmetic Campus
www.cosmetic-campus.de
ASCS
www.ascs2015.com
Sepawa
www.sepawa.com
Edison, NJ
USA
New York
USA
New York
USA
Brussels
Belgium
Amsterdam
Netherlands
Shanghai
China
Darmstadt
Germany
Thessaloniki
Greece
NYSCC
www.nyscc.org
IDICE
www.luxepack.com
Organic Monitor
www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com
HPCi Media
www.hpcimedia.com
PLMA
www.plmainternational.com
Informa Exhibitions
www.chinabeautyexpo.com
DGK e.V.
www.dgk-ev.de
Beauty Greece Tsirimokou
www.beautygreece.gr
Dubai
UAE
Istanbul
Turkey
London
Great Britain
Madrid
Spain
London
Great Britain
New York
USA
Munich
Germany
Seoul
South Korea
Messe Frankfurt
www.beautyworldme.com
Cesio
www.cesio-congress.eu
ACI
www.wplgroup.com/aci/conferences/eu-sff1.asp
KGS global
www.innocossummit.com
Summit Events
www.summit-events.com
UBM Canon
hbaglobal.packagingdigest.com
Leipziger Messe GmbH
www.cosmetic-business.com/tradefair
Reed Exhibitions
www.in-cosmeticskorea.com
28.–30.04.2015
05.–06.05.2015
12.–13.05.2015
13.–14.05.2015
14.–16.05.2015
19.–20.05.2015
19.–20.05.2015
19.–21.05.2015
20.–22.05.2015
23.–25.05.2015
Cosmetics Business
Regulatory Summit
World of
Private Label
China Beauty
Expo
DGK-Symposium
Mensch & Sonne
BEAUTY FORUM
MACEDONIA SUMMER
23.–25.05.2015
Beautyworld Middle East
01.–03.06.2015
CESIO Congress
03.–04.06.2015
Future of Formulations
in Cosmetics
InnoCos
Summit
International Sun
Protection Conference
HBA Global
Expo & Conference
CosmeticBusiness
04.–05.06.2015
09.–10.06.2015
09.–11.06.2015
10.–11.06.2015
15.–16.06.2015
In-Cosmetics
Korea
SERVICES
COSSMA 4 I 2015
59
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SERVICES
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Suppliers Guide Alphabetical Listing
On the following pages you will find a selection of suppliers to the cosmetics
industry. The listing is in alphabetical order based on the English section
headings. To make it easier for you to find what you are looking for we have
listed the German section headings below, with their English equivalents.
A detailed supplier listing can be found starting on page 45ff. You can also
find a full overview, with a search function, at www.cossma.com/guide
Should your company be listed here?
Send an e-mail to [email protected]
We will be glad to send you details of terms and prices.
German Heading
see
Abfüll- und Verschließmaschinen
Adeps Lanae
Ätherische Öle
Airless Systeme
Aloe Vera
Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse
Ampullenabfüllung
Avocadobutter
Avocadoöl
Filling and Crimping Machines
Adeps Lanae
Essential Oils
Airless Systems
Aloe Vera
Aluminium Seal Closures
Ampul Filling
Avocadobutter
Avocado Oil
Boragesamenöl
Borage Seed Oil
Chitosan
Chitosan
Dermatologische + klinische Tests
Dichtemessung von Cremes,
Flüssigkeiten und Aerosolen
Dermataogical + Clinical Tests
Density Measurement of
Creams, Liquids and Aerosols
Etiketten
Etuis für die dekorative Kosmetik
Labels
Pouches a. Cases f. Colour Cosmetics
Fettsäure-Ester Flüssigkeitszerstäuber und Sprühpistolen
Formen und Kunststoffteile
Fatty Acid Esters
Dispensers and Trigger Pumps
Molds and Plastic Parts
Glittereffekte
Glitter Effects
✂
Hagebuttenkernöl
Hyaluronsäure Natrium
Johanniskrautöl Hacoba
Jojobaperlen
Jojobaöl
Karmin
Kosmetik-Farbstoffe
Kosmetik-Rohstoffe
Kosmetik Spatel
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae),
Wollwachs, -alkohole
pestizidarm
Lip Balm Full Service
Lohnabfüllung
Lohnherstellung Arzneimittel
und Kosmetika
Lohnherstellung und Verpackung
Makadamianussöl
Mandelöl
Mischkugeln für Aerosole
Molch-Reinigungssysteme
Nachtkerzenöl
Oleochemicals
Olivenbutter
Olivenöl
Parfümöl
Pflanzenöle
Pumpen für die Produktion
Rizinusöl
Sesamöl
Software
Sheabutter
Spraysysteme
Sterilisation
Verpackungen
Weizenkeimöl
Wirkstoffe für Kosmetika
Wollwachs
Rose Hip Oil
Hyaluronic Acid Sodium
St. John’s Wort Oil /Hypericum Oil
Jojobabeads/Grains/Pearls
Jojoba Oil
Carmine
Cosmetics Colorants
Cosmetics Raw Materials
Cosmetics Spatulas
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae),
Low Pesticide Wool Wax,
Wool Alcohols
Lip Balm Full Service
Contract Filling
Contract Manufacturing
Pharmaceuticals and Cosmetics
Manufacturing + Packaging
Macadamia Nut Oil
Almond Oil
Aerosol Mixing Balls
Pig Clearing Systems
Evening Primrose Oil
Oleochemicals
Olivebutter
Olive Oil
Perfume Oil
vegetable oils
Pumps for the production process
Castor Oil
Sesame Oil
Software
Shea Butter
Spray Systems
Sterilization
Packaging
Wheat Germ Oil
Actives for Cosmetics
Wool Wax
✂
ADVERTISING FAX-SERVICE:
Fax +49 (0)721 165-227
Start winning tomorrow’s customer today
with your entry in the suppliers’ guide
width of column:
price per mm height:
for a period of:
advertising deadline:
Please send me an order confirmation for the following ad:
Category/ies:
43 mm
€ 3,10
1 year
10th day of each month before
publication
❑ Yes, I wish to place a firm order for an entry in the suppliers’
Company:
❑ 4 colour (Euro scale)
To be first published in issue:
❑ 05/2015
❑ 09/2015
Contact:
Street, P.O. Box:
Post Code, City:
Country:
For a period of:
60
COSSMA 4 I 2015
❑ black and white
❑ 06/2015
❑ 07-08/2015
❑ 10/2015
❑ 11/2015
❑ 1 year
❑ test: 3 month
❑ Yes, I agree that you may keep me advised of industry news by phone
(including mobile phone), by e-mail, or in writing!
Phone:
Fax:
mm
Height i. mm:
guide at a price of € 3,10 per column mm for each entry.
You will receive the text for my ad with separate fax.
Date, Signature
COS1504_61_BQ_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB 26.03.15 13:20 Seite 61
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SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Adeps Lanae
Adeps Lanae
Carmine
Karmin
H. Erhard Wagner GmbH
28701 Bremen, Postfach 77 01 20
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
www.wagnerlanolin.com
Aerosol Mixing Balls
Mischkugeln für Aerosole
SiLibeads
Contract Filling
Lohnabfüllung
SERVICES
Contract Manufacturing
+ Packaging
Lohnherstellung + Verpackung
C.E. ROEPER
Hans-Duncker-Straße 13 . 21035 Hamburg
Tel. 0 40 / 7 34 10 30 . Fax 0 40 / 73 41 03 35
E-Mail: [email protected] . http://www.roeper.de
Certification
Zertifizierung
®
glass balls for
aerosol sprays
SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH
Phone(++49)9277-99410·Fax(++49)9277-99499
E-Mail: [email protected]
www.sili.eu
Lohnabfüllung
Aloe Vera
Aloe Vera
Zellaerosol GmbH
Wiesenstraße 13
D-79669 Zell/Wiesental
Telefon 0 76 25 / 92 53-0
Telefax 0 76 25 / 92 53-14
E-Mail: [email protected]
Internet: www.zellaerosol.de
C.E. ROEPER
Hans-Duncker-Straße 13 . 21035 Hamburg
Tel. 0 40 / 7 34 10 30 . Fax 0 40 / 73 41 03 35
E-Mail: [email protected] . http://www.roeper.de
Aluminium Seal Closures
Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse
You are looking
for export
contacts?
Check the International
B2B Exchange
on page 48
in this issue.
GANZ EINFACH:
Wir haben uns spezialisiert auf das
Herstellen, Füllen und Verschließen von
✓ Standardsachets
✓ Zeitschriftensachets
✓ Onpacksachets
✓ Konturensachets
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Lohn-Pack
K.A.Wolf GmbH & Co. KG
Dorfwiesenstraße, 61197 Florstadt
Tel. 0 60 41 / 82 28 - 27, Fax 0 60 41 / 47 76
Mail: [email protected]
LEISTUNG
HERSTELLEN
von Salben, Gelen, Cremes, Zahnpasta,
Liquida, Pulver; Suppositorien in PVCoder Aluzellen.
ABFÜLLEN
in Alu-, Kunststoff-, Laminattuben,
Tiegel, Flaschen, Beutel, Dosen.
KONFEKTIONIEREN
Your company could be
placed here for only
€ 232,50 per issue.
Please note:
05/2015
Publishing date:
05.05.2015
von pharmazeutischen, kosmetischen,
chemischen Produkten, Nahrungs- und
Genußmitteln.
DOKUMENTIEREN
GMP-gerechte Kontrolle und Dokumentation. Modernes Labor mit
Mikrobiologie.
Advertising deadline:
09.04.2015
Alu-Siegelverschlüsse
Alu-Folien
• für Glas- u. Kunststoff-Behälter
• in Kleinst- u. Massenauflage
• in jeder Größe zu jedem Zweck
• Qualität seit 1957
DERSCHLAG GmbH & Co. KG
Stanzerei und Folienverarbeitung
57319 Bad Berleburg
Tel.: 0 27 51/20 27, Fax: 0 27 51/20 25
Book your ad today.
Call +49 (0)721 165-144
Please do not
hesitate to contact us if you
have any further questions
Call: Dorothea Michaelis
+49 (0)721 165-144
WAGENER & CO
GANZ EINFACH : LEISTUNG |seit 1964
Wagener & Co GmbH
Postfach 1645 · 49516 Lengerich
Telefon 0 54 81 / 8 06 - 0
E-Mail: [email protected]
Internet: www.wagener-co.de
COSSMA 4 I 2015
61
COS1504_61_BQ_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB 26.03.15 13:22 Seite 62
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SERVICES
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Contract Manufacturing
Pharmac. + Cosmetics
Cosmetic Ingredients
Kosmetik-Rohstoffe
Polyurethanes, film forming polymers
and sensory additives for your
cosmetic formulations
Labels
Etiketten
Alsheimer Straße 1
67586 Hillesheim - Germany
Tel.: +49 (0) 6733 9470-0
www.rationator.com
[email protected]
www.bayercosmetics.com
baycusan
®
Your
advertisement
could be right
Cosmetic Spatulas
Kosmetik-Spatel
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae)
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae)
Wir packen alles ein - schnell und zuverlässig
go Meding GmbH
Kruppstraße 8 · D-58553 Halver
Tel.: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 -0
Fax: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 - 28
[email protected]
www.meding.com
• Konfektionierung, Lohnverpackung und
•
•
•
Kommissionierung von Waren und Artikeln
in Klein- und Großauflagen
› Verpacken von mehrteiligen Sets, Verkaufsdisplays und Aufstellern
Produktkennzeichnung und Chargenrückverfolgung
Full-Service
› vom Einkauf der Materialien über Lagerung bis zum Versand Ihrer Produkte
Cellophanierung
Dermatological +
Clinical Tests
Glitter Effects
Glittereffekte
SiLiglit
®
H. Erhard Wagner GmbH
28701 Bremen, Postfach 77 01 20
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
www.wagnerlanolin.com
Qualitätssicherung mit lückenloser Dokumentation des gesamten Produktionsprozesses.
Lip Balm Full Service
Lip Balm Full Service
Engelstraße 37, 48143 Münster
www.dermatest.de
Falkenhorster Verpackungen GmbH
Äußerer Hofring 6
09429 Wolkenstein - OT Hilmersdorf
Fon: +49 (0) 37369-1712 14
Fax: +49 (0) 37369-1712 28 oder 1712 914
www.falkenhorster-verpackungen.de
[email protected]
Filling Lines
Filling Lines
SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH
Phone (++49) 9277 99410 · Fax (++49) 9277 99499
E - M a i l : s i l i @ s i g m u n d - l i n d n e r. c o m
www.sili.eu
Maschinen für Aerosole
und Sprühsysteme
Your company could be
placed here for only
€ 120,40 per issue.
Book your ad today.
Call +49 (0)721 165-144
62
COSSMA 4 I 2015
–
–
–
–
Füll- und Verschliessmaschinen
Prüf- und Sicherheitseinrichtungen
Sortier-, Zuführ- und Aufsetzmaschinen
Mess- und Testgeräte
Kosmetik - Pharmazeutik - Chemie Technik - Nahrungsmittelindustrie Farben/Lacke - Polyurethanschäume
Pamasol Willi Mäder AG, CH-8808 Pfäffikon
T +41(0)55 4174040, F +41(0)55 4174044
[email protected], www.pamasol.com
Advertising
Hotline
+49 (0)721 165-144
COS1504_61_BQ_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB 26.03.15 13:21 Seite 63
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SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
SERVICES
Chinese Edition
Mixing + Homogenizing
Mixing + Homogenizing
Trends
Statements
Innovation
SEUFERT
TRANSPARENTE
VERPACKUNGEN GMBH
A STEP AHEAD
symex GmbH & Co. KG
Lengstr. 10, 27572 Bremerhaven
Fon: +49 (0)471 9840-10
Fax: +49 (0)471 9840-140
www.symex.de
PACKED
WITH
INSPIRATION.
www.seufert.com
Advertising Hotline
+49 (0)721 165-144
Sterilization
Sterilisation
steril!
Wir machen Ihre
Packaging
Verpackungen
Produkte
BGS – Ihr Spezialist für Strahlensterilisation.
Find new business partners in China
with the Chinese Edition of COSSMA!
Together with our Chinese Partner “China Cosmetic
Review”, the first Chinese edition has been published
in May 2014.
“Chinese Cosmetic Review” was founded in 1992 and is
supported by the China Federation of Commerce. China
Cosmetic Review is the only official publication in China
targeted at the Chinese cosmetics and toiletries industry.
For further information on topics, print run & circulation
and advertising rates, check www.cossma.com/china
www.bgs.eu
Straßfeld 6, 85777 Fahrenzhausen
Tel. +49 (0)8133 – 91 85 90
Fax +49 (0)8133 – 91 85 99
[email protected], www.rosa-heinz.de
WI E H L | B R UCHSAL | SAAL (DONAU)
B GS Beta-Gamma-Service GmbH & Co. KG
[email protected] | + 49 (0) 22 61 78 99 - 0
Vegetable Oils
Pflanzenöle
„Danke für alles!“
Verpackung
für Kosmetik –
Selbstabfüller
Dosen u. Flaschen in Plastik u.
Glas (Sprühköpfe, Dosierspender,
Aromaflaschen, Parfümflaschen,
Sprühflaschen ohne Treibgas)
www.sos-kinderdoerfer.de
Auch Kleinstmengen!
Fordern Sie unsere Unterlagen an
R.GERSCHON GMBH
Wool wax
Wollwachs
Siebdruck ab 300 Stück
H. Erhard Wagner GmbH
28701 Bremen, Postfach 77 01 20
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
www.wagnerlanolin.com
D . 61462 Königstein im Taunus
Tel. 06174/7017 . Fax 06174/1312
Internet: www.gerschon.de
E-Mail: [email protected]
www.cossma.com/china
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Germany
[email protected]
Tel: +49 (0)721 165-144 Fax: +49 (0)721 165-150
COS1504_64_IBF_COS1409_42_IBF_GB 26.03.15 13:23 Seite 64
www.cossma.com
SERVICE
XB2B-EXCHANGE
Go to
B2B Exchange: Find your
business partners of tomorrow today!
COSSMA and BEAUTY FORUM will help you to build new
business contacts.
All our business partners can use this "International B2B
Exchange".
Have a look at the entries below now and
find your business partner of tomorrow today!
Further information: see www.cossma.com/b2b-exchange
(a =NEW!)
www.cossma.com/
b2bexchange
for more information
about suppliers and
their products
Wish to export their products
abalico
Weinheim, Germany
Contact: Mr. Rüdiger Vogel
[email protected]
www.abalico.de
Products: Cosmetic products
for hand and nail
wish to export to: A, CH, F, E, GB
Akzent direct GmbH
Gelnhausen, Germany
Contact: Mr. Reiner Schmidt
[email protected]
www.akzent-direct.com
Products: Nail Design, Permanent Make-Up
wish to export to: Asia, AUS, Africa, Near East,
P, E, I
Beauty Line Consulting
Ubstadt-Weiher, Germany
Contact: Mr. Janos Stegena
[email protected]
www.belico.de
Products: skin and body care products,
private label, bulk
wish to export to: worldwide
beauty lumis GmbH
München, Germany
Contact: Ms. Angela Frommer
[email protected]
www.byonik.net
Products: 2-Frequenz-Simultan- Meso-Laser-and
cosmetic products
wish to export to: worldwide
DR. BELTER COSMETIC GMBH
Braunschweig, Germany
Contact: Ms. Mira Fischbach
[email protected]
www.BELTER.de
Products: skin and body care cosmetics
wish to export to: worldwide
GERTRAUD GRUBER
KOSMETIK GmbH & Co.
Rottach-Egern/Tegernsee, Germany
Contact: Mr. Roland Schäfer
[email protected]
www.gertraudgruber.de
Products: Wirkstoffaktives holistisches Produktund Anwendungskonzept auf Naturbasis
der 1. Beautyfarm Europas.
wish to export to: worldwide
Klapp Cosmetics GmbH
Guderma GmbH
Bergkamen, Germany
Contact: Mr. Manfred Wolf
[email protected]
www.fusspunkt.de
Products: Skin Care Products for dry and
very dry skin
wish to export to: worldwide
Heitland & Petre International
GmbH (ROSA GRAF)
Celle, Germany
Contact: Ms. Saskia Schneider
[email protected]
www.heitland.com
Products: skin care products,
wellness & spa treatments
wish to export to: worldwide
House of Melchiorsen
Naestved, Denmark
Contact: Ms. Annelise Langhorn
[email protected]
www.susanne-melchiorsen.com
Products: Natural Skin Care products and herbal
teas – made of biodynamic herbs from
owned herbs-garden.
wish to export to: worldwide
Ingeburg Praxis-Cosmetic GmbH
Dr. GRANDEL GmbH
PHYRIS Premium Spa Cosmetic
Augsburg, Germany
Contact: Mr. Jürgen Geisler
[email protected]
www.grandel.de
Products: Skin care products,
wish to export to: GB, GUS, TR, TW, S. America
64
COSSMA 4 I 2015
IONTO-COMED GmbH
Karlsruhe, Germany
Contact: Export
[email protected]
www.ionto.de
Products: cosmetic and footcare technology
wish to export to: worldwide
Karlsruhe, Germany
Contact: Ms. Renate Karner
[email protected]
www.praxis-cosmetic.de
Products: Skin and Body Care
Cosmetics, Ampoules,
Decorative cosmetics
wish to export to: EU + worldwide
Hessisch Lichtenau, Germany
Contact: Mr. Fernando Duarte
[email protected]
www.klapp-cosmetics.com
Products: Cosmetic products,
SPA collection series
wish to export to: EU, S. America, Asia
NEOVITA COSMETICS
Mauer, Germany
Contact: Ms. Karina Grimm
[email protected]
www.neovita.de
Products: Premium Skin Care products for
professionals
wish to export to: worldwide
Dr. med Christine Schrammek
Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG
Essen, Germany
Contact: Ms. Birgit Schmitz
[email protected]
www.schrammek.de
Products: Hautpflegeprodukte, Peelings
wish to export to: I, MAL, RA, UA, ZA
TANA Cosmetics
Bielefeld, Germany
Contact: Egypt-Wonder GmbH+Co. KG
Mr. Ronald Fortmann
[email protected]
www.tana-cosmetics.com
Products: Colour cosmetics,
Cosmetic products for self tanning
wish to export to: E, F, DK, S
COS1504_65_Impressum_COS1409_49_Impressum_GB 26.03.15 13:23 Seite 65
www.cossma.com
Masthead
Page
The
Team
Volume 15 ISSN 1439-7676
Published by Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Managing Director: Jürgen Volpp
Assistant: Phone: +49 721 165-311
Address Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, COSSMA
P.O. Box 1446, 76003 Karlsruhe, Germany
Phone: +49 721 165-0, Fax: +49 721 165-148
Editorial Staff Legally responsible party and Senior Editor:
Angelika Meiss
Phone: +49 721 165-169
E-mail: [email protected]
Managing Director
Jürgen Volpp
Advisory Board François Berthoud, Jean-François Billon, Agnès Borel,
Peter Finkel, Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Ulrich Herfurt,
Birgit Huber, Dr. Jean-Luc Lévêque, Dr. Daniel Maes,
Prof. Dr. Hagen Tronnier, Dr. Klaus-Peter Wittern
Advertising Advertisement Manager: Dorothea Michaelis
Phone: +49 721 165-144
E-mail: [email protected]
Advertising Services: Beate Bantzhaff
Phone: +49 721 165-232, Fax: +49 721 165-148
The current list of advertising rates is dated
1st of Jan. 2014.
Senior Editor
Angelika Meiss
+49 721 165-169
Circulation Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Service [email protected]
Phone: +49 721 165-162, Fax: +49 721 165-148
Published: 10 issues per year
COSSMA: formerly “Parfümerie und Kosmetik“ and
“Aerosol and Spray Report“
Subscription Purchase price/annual subscription rates:
Rates Germany: € 192; outside Germany: € 198.
Cancellations addressed to the publishing firm
by letter will be accepted one month before the end of the
subscription year. The subscription fees will be billed in
advance once a year. A quarterly debit transfer arrangement via a bank or post office is acceptable.
Design/ Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Production Ulrich Hanke
Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18, 76133 Karlsruhe, Germany
Phone: +49 721 165-592
ISDN (Leonardo): +49 721 165-696
Advertising Sales
Dorothea Michaelis
+49 721 165-144
Printing Kraft Druck GmbH
Industriestr. 5-9, 76275 Ettlingen, Germany
International Representatives
Hungary Health and Beauty Business Media Kft.
Anita Zsilak, Naphegy tér 8. III. em. (MTI Székház)
1016 Budapest, Hungary
Phone: +36 1 457006600, Fax: +36 1 2013248
E-mail: [email protected]
Italy Zero Venti
Loris Sparti
Via Valprato, 68
10155 Torino, Italy
Phone: +39 0115637338
E-mail: [email protected]
Advertising Support
Beate Bantzhaff
+49 (0)721 165-232
Poland Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.o.o.
Malgorzata Szulc, ul. Kubickiego 9/3
02-954 Warsaw, Poland
Phone: +48 22 8587955, Fax: +48 22 8587953
E-mail: [email protected]
USA and Canada D.A. Fox Advertising Sales Inc.
Detlef Fox
19th Floor 5 Penn Plaza
New York, NY NY 10001, USA
Phone: +1 212 896-3881
Fax: +1 212 629-3988
E-mail: [email protected]
© Copyright Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, Karlsruhe 2014
Graphics
Ulrich Hanke
+49 (0)721 165-592
The publisher has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the accuracy of information in this magazine. Nevertheless, no responsibility is accepted for any
errors which may occur. The magazine, including all articles and illustrations is
copyright. Unauthorised use of published material is prohibited and will be the
subject of legal action. This applies in particular to photo copying, translations,
microfilms and the storage and editing using electronic media. The use of trade
names, brand names, product designations etc. in this publication implies no
authority for their further use by third parties. Such product names and brands
may be the subject of legal protection, even though they may not be identified
as such in the magazine.
Advertisers’
Index
Air Products and Chemicals, Inc.
www.airproducts.com/oxyforce
p. 9
Akzo Nobel Chemicals AG Personal Care
www.akzonobel.com/personalcare
p. 68
BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH
www.carecreations.basf.com
p. 7
Bayer Material Science AG
www.baycusan.com
p. 13
bb med. product GmbH
www.bb-kalkar.de
p. 14
bomo trendline innovative Cosmetic GmbH
www.bomo-trendline.de
p. 47
Clariant International Ltd.
www.clariant.com/glucotain
p. 41
Dr. Spiller GmbH
www.dr-spiller.com
p. 57
Dr. Straetmans GmbH
www.dr-straetmans.de
p. 33
Follmann GmbH & Co. KG
www.follmann.com
p. 15
Greentech GmbH
www.greentechgmbh.de
IMPAG Import GmbH
www.impag.de
p. 8
p. 19-26
Informa Beauty
www.chinabeautyexpo.com
p. 55
KHK GmbH
www.lipcare.de/private-label
p. 58
Kosmetik Konzept GmbH
www.kosmetik-konzept.de
p. 58
Leipziger Messe GmbH
www.cosmetic-business.com
Lipotec S.A.
www.lipotec.com
Loose Insert
p. 2
LUM GmbH
www.lum-gmbh.com
p. 35
M&H Plastics
www.mhplastics.com
p. 18
Meding GmbH
www.meding.com
p. 53
Merck KG aA
www.merck-performance-materials.com p. 17
NCD Ingredients GmbH
www.ncd-ingredients.de
p. 43
Pfeiffer Consulting GmbH
www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
Loose Insert (German Distribution)
Sabinsa Europe GmbH
www.sabinsaeurope.com
p. 51
Sigmund Lindner GmbH
www.sigmund-lindner.com
p. 45
Zellaerosol GmbH
www.zellaerosol.de
p. 18
Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co. KG
www.zschimmer-schwarz.com
p. 5
COS1504_66_Vorschau_COS1409_50_Vorschau_GB 26.03.15 13:23 Seite 66
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
Trend statement
www.boerlind.com
PREVIEW
Product development
Peter Pierron, Head of
Product Development and
Production at Biomaris
provides an insight into the
latest trends in the field of
active ingredients
Plus:
+++ Highlights among the latest launches in active
ingredients +++ What are India’s most popular
products? +++ The latest solutions in airless
dispensing and more +++ Market survey on process
and laboratory technology +++
COSSMA 5/2015 is published on May 5th, 2015
66
COSSMA 4 I 2015
Jojoba globules,
sea salt and bamboo granulate are
also skin- and environment-friendly options for the removal
of dead skin cells
May 2015
photo: JPC-PROD, Shutterstock.com
Consumers’ increased environmental and health consciousness is having an ever greater influence on cosmetic care products. In the past manufacturers of natural cosmetics were
almost the only companies to offer
deodorant sprays free from soluble
aluminium salts such as aluminium
chlorohydrate. Today, the majority of
Guylaine Le Loarer,
conventional cosmetics manufacturHead of Research
ers have also stopped using such inand Development,
Börlind
gredients in favour of healthier alternatives. This is, of course, not least
due to the fact that raw materials are being continuously further developed. It is becoming easier and easier to replace
ingredients which cause concern without having to make
corresponding compromises in terms of product efficacy.
The situation regarding environmental protection is similar.
The debate about microplastics – tiny, non-biodegradable
plastic particles – has resulted in many toothpaste manufacturers deciding to no longer use microplastics in their products. In the long term, this trend will also prevail in the facial
and body exfoliant product segment, where jojoba wax
globules, sea salt and bamboo granulate are also skin- and
environment-friendly options for the removal of dead skin
cells.
photo: Valua Vitaly, Shutterstock.com
Replacement of ingredients of concern
Read more
about the latest
active ingredients hitting the
scene
Focus: Active ingredients
100-06_EA_CosmeticNET_uk_100-06_EA_CosmeticNET_uk 26.03.15 11:33 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
www.cossma.com/suppliers
Check the website with detailed online-information for the personal care industry –
news, product innovations, addresses, events, books and these selected internet sites:
Find tomorrow’s
suppliers today!
Hersteller von hochwertigen
kosmetischen Verpackungen
www.ashland.com
www.dr-sacher-kosmetik.de
www.azelis.com
www.roeper.de
[email protected]
www.bottlemate.de
www.rationator.com
www.meding.com
www.neopac.ch
www.flavex.com
www.bayercosmetics.com
www.gerschon.de
www.geka-world.com
www.lohn-pack.com
www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
www.laus.de
www.beinio.com
www.rettner.de
www.brenntag-gmbh.com
www.ampullenabfuellung.de
www.zellaerosol.de
www.seufert.com
www.pro-beauty-production.de
www.hhac.de
www.novel-care.de
www.cplaromas.com
www.neocos.com
www.systemkosmetik.de
www.sili.eu
www.derschlag.com
www.inolex.com
www.unionpack.de
www.sabinsa.com
www.kosmetik-konzept.de
www.pack-it.de
www.itwsbi.com
www.gscomputersysteme.de
www.rusi.de
www.lutz-packaging.de
www.ballerstaedt.de
www.kautz-design.com
www.mawi-chemie.de
www.symex.de
www.siriusmaschinen.de
www.domino-deutschland.de
www.intracosmed.ch
www.aot.de
PUROLAN ENERGIZED BY
www.lanxess-distribution.com
You can find further information of these
[email protected]/suppliers as well
as on their homepages (see Url below the logos).
Your logo can be listed here for just € 60,– per month
– for further information, please contact
Dorothea Michaelis
[email protected]
phone +49 (0)721 165-144
COS1504_Akzo_Nobel_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 18.03.15 13:01 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
Put luxury
within reach
Top shelf hydration and luxurious feel for all your skin
care products is now within reach. HYDROVANCE®
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benefits as glycerin, reduces reliance on other aesthetic
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Learn more at www.akzonobel.com/personalcare