1. style and fashion
2. beauty
3. hair care

SHAMPOOING, CONDITIONING & DRAPING WORKBOOK
Hairstyling & Aesthetics – TXJ3E – Ms. Navas
Rev: May 2011
Name: ________________________________________________
Shampooing, Conditioning & Draping TXJ3E
THIS PAGE IS INTENTIONALLY BLANK
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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Shampooing, Conditioning & Draping TXJ3E
Table of Contents
Terminology - Shampooing ................................................................................................................... 4
Types of Shampoo ................................................................................................................................... 5
Types of Rinses .......................................................................................................................................... 6
Natural Products ...................................................................................................................................... 6
Draping & Shampooing ................................................................................................................................. 8
Shampoo Procedure ..................................................................................................................................... 9
Assignment: Shampoo Theory ...................................................................................................... 10
Safety precautions ...................................................................................................................................... 11
UNDERSTANDING SHAMPOOING ............................................................................................................... 12
SHAMPOO SELECTION ............................................................................................................................ 12
THE pH SCALE .......................................................................................................................................... 12
CHEMISTRY OF WATER ........................................................................................................................... 14
Hydrophilic .............................................................................................................................................. 14
Lipophilic ................................................................................................................................................. 14
APPLYING DRY SHAMPOOS ..................................................................................................................... 15
SHAMPOOING CLIENTS WITH SPECIAL NEEDS........................................................................................ 15
The pH Scale............................................................................................................................................ 16
Acids ...................................................................................................................................................... 16
Alkaline .................................................................................................................................................. 16
The pH Scale............................................................................................................................................ 18
Live Model Shampoo Peer Evaluation ................................................................................................. 19
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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Shampooing, Conditioning & Draping TXJ3E
Terminology - Shampooing
Term
Definition
Shampoo
To subject the scalp and hair to washing and massage with a
cleansing agent
Lather
Froth made from mixing soap and water
Brittle
Easily broken or shattered
Penetrate
To pierce or pass into or through
Detergent
An agent that cleanses
Thorough
To complete or perfect in all respects
Lustre
To shine or glossiness
Cleanse
To make clean or purify
Tangle
Matted mass of hair
Temporary
Not permanent, not forever
Rinse
To cleanse with a second or repeated application of water after
washing
Tepid
Neither hot nor cold, lukewarm
Saturate
To cause to become soaked or completely penetrated, to absorb all
that is possible to hold
Sheen
Gloss, shininess
Temperature
The degree of heat or cold as measure by a thermometer
Massage
Manipulation of the body by rubbing, pinching, kneading, tapping
Pressure
Act of pressing
Relax
To loosen, or slacken, to make less tense or rigid
Sensitive
Easily affected by outside influences
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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Shampooing, Conditioning & Draping TXJ3E
Composition
The kind and number of atoms constituting the molecule of a
substance
Types of Shampoo
Plain Shampoo
Usually clear and transparent, contains liquid soap or a detergentbased product. It should be followed by an acid rinse.
Soap-less Oil
Shampoo
Made from synthetic detergents in which the oils have been treated
with sulphuric acid. Advantage is it’s effective in both soft and hard
water.
Liquid Cream
Shampoo
A semi-heavy white liquid. It is used on dry hair. A detergent-based
product in which soap is used as thickening agent. It also contains oily
compounds makes hair feel silky and soft.
Cream or Paste
Shampoo
Essentially the same as liquid cream shampoo but with more
detergent material and less water.
Acid-Balanced
(non-strip)
Shampoo
Has a PH of 5.5 which is considered to be acid-balanced. Formulated
to prevent stripping of tints and toners and recommended for brittle,
dry or damaged hair.
Anti-dandruff
Shampoo
Used to control a dandruff condition. A germicide is added to plain
shampoo.
Henna Shampoo
Basic color is reddish or auburn. Adds brightness to dark shades and
turns blonde, white or grey hair orange.
Liquid Dry
Shampoo
Used when wet shampoo is unable to be given. It is made from
benzene or gasoline.
Power Dry
Shampoo
Used when wet shampoo cannot be given. The powder soaks up the
oil and is brushed from the hair.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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Shampooing, Conditioning & Draping TXJ3E
Types of Rinses
Hair Rinses
Consists of water or a mixture of water with a mild acid, coloring agent
or special ingredients.
Acid Rinses
Special acid rinses remove soap scum
a) Citric Acid – from lime, orange or lemon juice
b) Tartaric Acid – residues of wine making
c) Acetic Acid – vinegar
d) Lactic Acid – lactose or sugar of milk
Cream Rinses
Creamy in appearance and softens the hair, adds lustre and makes
hair easier to comb.
Acid-balanced
(non-strip) Rinses
Prevents stripping of color after tints or toners, it closes and hardens
the cuticle.
Medicated
Rinses
Has medicinal properties to control minor conditions of dandruff.
Color Rinses
Used to highlight or add temporary color
Henna Rinses
A final rinse to give an auburn tinge to the hair.
Natural Products
Camomile
Mild tea (calming effect)
Excellent hair rinse – keeps the scalp clean
Acts as a mild lightening agent
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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Shampooing, Conditioning & Draping TXJ3E
WHY SHAMPOO?
The primary purpose is to cleanse the hair and scalp before a service.
One of the most important experiences that a stylist provides is the shampoo.
It can be heavenly or a nightmare.
The shampoo gives us an opportunity to provide the client with quality relaxation time
in the salon and prepare for the service.
REMEMBER: If a client is happy with their shampoo, they are far more
likely to be happy with their entire service.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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Draping & Shampooing
While shampooing is an important preliminary step that
prepares the hair for a variety of services, it can also be a
soothing, pleasurable experience that set the mood for
the entire visit. The shampoo is an opportunity to provide
the client with quality relaxation time in the salon that is
free from the stresses of the day. It can be nurturing and,
when done will, feel as good as an overall body massage.
REMEMBER: If a client is happy with her shampoo, she is
far more likely to be happy with her entire service.
8 Ways to make a good shampoo experience great!
1.
The scalp is always massaged according to the
preference of the client. Some clients have a
sensitive scalp and want a very light massage,
while others lack sensitivity and want a firm
massage. In order to service every client to the
best of your ability, find out their preference before
shampooing her or his hair.
2.
Always ask the client if the water feels too warm,
too cool, or just right, and adjust the temperature
accordingly.
3.
Do not allow the water or your hands to touch a
woman’s face while shampooing. This may remove
part of their base makeup, and can turn an
otherwise great shampoo into an unpleasant
experience.
4.
It is easy to miss the very nape of the neck when
shampooing and rinsing, so be careful reaching it,
and then check this area before escorting the client
to your salon.
5.
Offer a cool rinse to your client. Explain how good
it is for the hair (closes the cuticle). If the client
objects, though, do not insist. Many people find
even tepid water to be a chilling experience.
6.
Throughout the shampoo, be very careful not to
drench the towel that is draped around the neck. If
the towel become damp, replace it with a clean, dry
towel before leaving the shampoo area.
7.
When blotting the hair after the shampoo, be
careful not to go beyond the hairline. If you this,
you may remove part of your client’s makeup and
she may feel self-conscious for her entire visit.
8.
When learning to give a great shampoo, include a
great massage. It is always satisfying to know that
you are making your clients feel good!
MOVEMENTS FOR A SHAMPOO
1. Shampoo hairline – using circular
movements with thumbs
2. Side movements – using fingertips
3. Top of head – interlocking finger movement
towards the center of the head
4. Nape area – using vertical movements,
shampoo nape area (ear to ear) entire back
of head.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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Shampooing, Conditioning & Draping TXJ3E
Shampoo Procedure
DRAPING
It is necessary to drape your client for the following reasons:
1. To provide for the clients comfort.
2. To provide for a professional service.
3. To protect from injury.
4. To protect their clothing.
SHAMPOO
The purpose of a shampoo is to cleanse the hair and scalp. A person should have a shampoo as often as
their hair requires it. As a general rule, oily hair should be shampooed more often than normal or dry
hair.
1.
Tuck in the clients collar and place a towel ‘Peter Pan’ style around their neck. Cover the client with a
cape.
2.
Check the hair and scalp for abrasions, head lice, etc.
3.
Brush the hair to loosen the dirt, hairspray, etc. NEVER brush prior to giving a perm or tint.
4.
Seat the client at the shampoo basin. Put the cape behind the chair.
5.
Wet the hair thoroughly.
6.
Apply the shampoo quickly, starting at the hairline.
7.
Massage the scalp using the tips of the fingers.
8.
Rinse the hair thoroughly with a strong spray.
9.
Repeat steps 6 to 8.
10. Apply a cream rinse or conditioner. Rinse well.
11. Squeeze out excess moisture gently and towel dry.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Clean up spilled water
IMMEDIATELY!
2. Do not use your fingernails to
massage the scalp.
3. ALWAYS keep a check on the
water temperature.
4. Clean up!
12. Wipe down the sink and chair for the next client.
13. The hair is now ready to comb and style.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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Shampooing, Conditioning & Draping TXJ3E
Assignment: Shampoo Theory
Answer the following questions in your notebook, using the Milady textbook
1.
Why must a cosmetologist be able to give a professional shampoo?
2.
What are the benefits of a good shampoo service?
3.
Why is it necessary to cleanse the hair and scalp regularly?
4.
How often should the hair be shampooed?
5.
What two classifications of water are there? Describe each kind.
6.
What should be taken into consideration when selecting a shampoo or conditioner
for a client?
7.
What materials and implements do you need when giving a shampoo?
8.
Why must you properly drape your client?
9.
What does brushing the hair prior to a shampoo do?
10. When would you not brush the hair?
11. How should chemically treated hair be handled?
12.
What is pH?
13.
What is an acid balanced shampoo?
14.
What is a dry shampoo?
15.
What is a clarifying shampoo?
16.
What are colour enhancing shampoos?
17.
What is a surfactant molecule and what does it do?
18.
What are acid balanced rinses?
19.
What are medicated rinses?
20.
What are the 3 types of conditioners?
21.
What kind of shampoo and / or conditioner should you use and why?
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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Shampooing, Conditioning & Draping TXJ3E
Safety precautions
1.) Do not permit shampoo to get into the patron’s eyes.
2.) Protect patron’s ears with pledges of clean cotton if they are sensitive to water.
3.) Test the water temperature before applying to patron’s head.
4.) Do not permit the fingernails to scratch the patron’s scalp.
5.) Always towel blot excess moisture from patron’s hair before leaving the shampoo basin.
6.) Do not permit the shampoo cape to come in contact with the patron’s skin.
7.) Use sanitized combs, brushes, towels and other implements for each patron.
8.) Do not turn dryer on “hot” if patron has high blood pressure.
9.) Do not permit water to remain on the floor around the shampoo bowl.
10.) Clean shampoo bowl, and sanitize the neck of the bowl after each use.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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Shampooing, Conditioning & Draping TXJ3E
UNDERSTANDING SHAMPOOING

Purpose
To cleanse the hair and scalp

Definition
To subject the hair and scalp to cleaning and
massaging with a cleansing agent
SHAMPOO SELECTION

Hair Type
Dry, oily, normal

Hair Condition
Overprocessed; chemically treated; damaged

Home Maintenance
Inappropriate products used at home can diminish the quality of the salon service
THE pH SCALE
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE

Potential hydrogen in a solution

pH levels

Acid—0 to 6.9

Alkaline—7.1 to 14

The higher the pH rating, the harsher the
shampoo
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Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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Shampooing, Conditioning & Draping TXJ3E
CHEMISTRY OF WATER

Purification—fresh water from lakes and streams must be purified for domestic use.

Soft water—rain water or chemically softened water. It contains small amounts of minerals and
will produce lots of lather.

Hard water—contains minerals that lessen the ability of shampoo to lather.

Water—the main ingredient in all shampoos

Surfactant Molecule

Hydrophilic end

Lipophilic end
Hydrophilic

Is the “head” of the shampoo molecule

Attaches to water molecules

Causes debris to roll off
Lipophilic

Is the “tail” of the
shampoo molecule

Is attracted to oil and dirt

Causes oil and dirt to roll up into little balls that can be lifted off by a
water rinse
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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APPLYING DRY SHAMPOOS

Seat client comfortably at station.

Drape for chemical service.

Follow product directions.

Apply powder directly onto hair from scalp to ends and brush through.
SHAMPOOING CLIENTS WITH SPECIAL NEEDS

Clients with disabilities or who are wheelchair-bound will usually tell you how they prefer to be
shampooed.

Some clients in wheelchairs will allow you to shampoo their hair while they remain seated in
their wheelchairs, facing the shampoo bowl and bending forward.

Always ask the clients their preferences and keep their comfort and safety a priority.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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The pH Scale
Potential hydrogen or pH is often discussed with regard to salon products. It is often one
of the least understood properties. Hydrogen Power means the relative degree of acidity
and alkalinity of a substance. Notice that pH is written with a small p (which represents a
quantity) and a capital H (which represents the hydrogen ion, H ). The symbol pH
represents the quantity of hydrogen ions. Understanding what pH is and how it affects the
skin and hair is essential to understanding all chemical services.
The world of hair care is affected in a large way by the chemistry of the products that a
hairstylist uses. It is important to understand the effects of the chemicals you use every
day.
A significant chemical characteristic of these products is the degree of acidity and
alkalinity is measured on a scale called the pH scale. Water is considered a neutral
substance. Its pH is 7 on the scale. An acid substance ranges in pH from just below 7 to
0. An alkaline substance rages in pH from just above 7 to 14.
Pure water, with a pH of7 is 100 times more alkaline than a pH of 5. Since the average pH
of hair and skin is 5, pure water is 100 times more alkaline than your hair and skin even
though it is neutral. Pure water can cause the hair to swell by as much as 20 percent. It is
important to choose products with the correct pH for each client’s hair, as the pH level
will affect the results you get.
Acids
Acids have a pH below 7.0, taste sour and turn litmus paper from blue to red. Acids
contract and harden the hair. One such acid is thioglycolic acid and is used in permanent
waving.
Alkaline
All alkalis have a pH above 7.0. They taste bitter, turn litmus paper from red to blue, and
feel slippery and soapy on the skin. Alkalis soften and swell the hair. Sodium hydroxide,
commonly known as lye is a very strong alkali used in chemical drain cleaners and chemical
hair relaxers.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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Wet hair normally has a pH of around 5, so it is slightly acid. Shampoos have a pH of
around 8, which is slightly alkaline, except for acid-balanced shampoos, which have a pH of
around 5. Alkaline perms have a pH of around 9. Colour rinses are quite acidic, with a pH
of 2. Neutralizers for alkaline products have a pH of about 3. Conditioners have a pH
that varies from 3.5 to 6. They can resort the pH balance to the hair after an alkaline
treatment if a neutralizer has not been used.
In general, an alkaline hair product causes the hair to soften and become fuller. An acidic
substance in a hair product contracts and hardens hair. If your are not sure what product
to use, pick the product that is closest to neutral or with a pH close to 7.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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The pH Scale
Answer the following questions using the article provided on a separate piece of paper.
Use full sentences. Use the drawing you have done for some of your answers.
1. What is the definition of the pH scale?
2. What does the letter p stand for, and what does the letter H stand for?
3. What is the range of the pH scale?
4. What is pure water considered on the scale?
5. A substance that is less than 7 is considered what?
6. A substance that is more than 7 is considered what?
7. Pure water does what to hair?
8. What do alkaline products do to the hair?
9. What does an acid product do to the hair?
10. What is the pH of the following?
11. Draw, color, number and label the pH scale:
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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Shampooing, Conditioning & Draping TXJ3E
Live Model Shampoo Peer Evaluation
Where you greeted amicably?
 yes  no
Did your shampooer drape a towel around your neck?
 yes  no
Did your shampooer drape a cape around your neck?
 yes  no
Was the cape comfortable tight around your neck?
 yes  no
Did your shampooer settle you into the sink gently?
 yes  no
Was your shampooer too rough when scrubbing your head?
 yes  no
Did your shampooer use 2 shampoos and 1 conditioner?
 yes  no
Were you comfortable during the shampoo?
 yes  no
Did you get wet?
 yes  no
If so, did your shampooer change the towel and cape?
 yes  no
Was the temperature of the water ok?
 yes  no
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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Humectants
Lipophilic
Surfactants
Conditioners
Hydrophilic
Soft water
Balancing shampoo
Hard water
Acid-balanced shampoo
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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Using the words on the previous page, match the term with its appropriate
definition:
shampoos that are balanced to the pH of skin & hair (4.5 to 5.5)
shampoos that wash away excess oiliness from oily hair & scalp while
preventing the hair from drying out.
Special chemical agents applied to the hair to deposit protein or
moisturizer, to help restore its strength & give it body, or to protect it
against possible breakage.
Capable of combining with or attracting water
Capable of attracting oil
Cleansing or surface active agent
Rain water or chemically softened water that lathers easily with soap or
shampoo
Water containing certain minerals that reduce the ability of soap or
shampoo to lather
Substances that absorb moisture or promote the retention of moisture
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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Shampooing, Conditioning & Draping TXJ3E
Answer the following 4 questions:
1. Why is pH an important fact in shampoo selection?
2. Name 4 ways in which water can be purified.
3. What is the action of conditioner on the hair?
4. What hair services should not be preceded by shampooing, brushing or
massage?
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
B.1: HAIR CARE
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