online exclusive beginner chain mail ORB EARRINGS Make a Simple Chain mail Capture Adapting a flat weave into a round form is easier than it looks. by Beth Hall C hain mail has been used as a garment romance or aventurine for creativity (see of war by various cultures since at least “The Symbolism of Stones,” page 4). For a the fifth century. In recent generations, different look, try a combination of colored we’ve adapted the techniques and weaves to niobium jump rings (see “Rings of Color,” May create art and jewelry. 2007) or a blend of silver and gold-filled rings. To make these simple yet elegant earrings, The procedure for making an orb can be you’ll coax a Japanese chain mail weave into divided into three phases: the chain phase, the a circular pattern to form an orb. Carefully triangle phase, and the orb phase. There are held inside the orb is a small, half-hidden other sequences to achieve the same end, such gemstone. These gemstones can have signifi- as forming each row of the triangle separately, cance beyond their aesthetic appeal — you but I prefer to use this method as it is the least can choose your gemstone for its folkloric or confusing and most efficient. symbolic attributes, such as rose quartz for © 2008 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher. www.A r t J e w e l r y M a g . c o m Make the chain Process photos by Barry Hall. 1 Close twelve 6 mm-inside-diameter (ID) jump rings and open twenty-four 4 mm ID jump rings. Place four 6 mm rings inside one 4 mm ring, and close the 4 mm ring. Place a second 4 mm ring through all four 6 mm rings, and close it. Use a pair of 4 mm rings to connect a pair of 6 mm rings to a previous set of 6 mm rings. Continue this pattern until you have a chain of six pairs of 6 mm rings alternating with five pairs of 4 mm rings. online extra To read tips on opening and closing jump rings, or to watch a video tutorial, visit www. artjewelrymag.com/howto. Separate the 6 mm rings so there is a pair on each side of the 4 mm rings. NOTE: The numbers shown inside the rings will act as a guide to making the connections between rings during the triangle phase. endless possibilities • Make a bracelet by connecting eight orbs with pairs of jump rings. • Make a pendant by attaching a dangling drop bead to a single orb, then suspend the assembly from a snake chain. • Make a necklace by using pairs of jump rings to connect three orbs. Then attach them to a handmade chain. Attach further pendants, such as a fourth orb and dangling drop beads, right, to the center orb. • Attach orbs to your cell phone or MP3 player, to a light pull or fan, or to your car’s rearview mirror! www.A r t J e w e l r y M a g . c o m 2 Make the triangles in green rings.) The triangle now consists of six pairs of 6 mm rings and nine pairs of 4 mm connector rings. NOTE: While you’re making the connections, hold the piece in your hand, rather than laying it on the table; this allows you to maneuver the jump rings more easily. If you lose your place or get confused, return the piece to the table, and re-form your triangle. Lay the chain on your work surface so that it forms a triangle, positioning it so that three pairs of 6 mm rings are on the bottom of the triangle; two pairs of 6 mm rings are in the middle; and one pair of 6 mm rings is on the top. 3 Using the ring numbers in the previous photo as a guide, connect the rows of the triangle by adding a pair of 4 mm rings at each of the four possible new connection points. (For clarity, the image shows these connection points Connect 6 mm-ring pairs 1 and 3, and then 1 and 6, with pairs of 4 mm rings to form the orb (the image shows these connection points in green rings). 4 Make the orbs Thread a 4 mm ring through 6 mm-ring pairs 6 and 3 of the triangle (the points of the triangle on the right side), and close it. Add another 4 mm ring to complete the paired connection (the image shows this new connection point in green rings). When you’ve finished the triangle, double-check to ensure that all rings of the triangle are in pairs. Insert your bead or gemstone into the little pouch that has been created by the last step. NOTE: A bit of gentle coaxing may be required to attach the last few rings, as space is getting tight. Try gently rolling the orb in your hand or shaking it in cupped hands, or try using a different 4 mm ring or even a different entry point for the new ring. Don’t force it. If it seems absolutely impossible, or there is a wide gap between the points of the triangle, you may have to choose a smaller gemstone, particularly if it is faceted. Repeat the above steps to make the second earring in the pair. Attach the ear wires Not all manufactured ear wires will accommodate the width of the paired 4 mm rings. To avoid this problem, I like to create my own ear wires (see “Make Your Own Ear Wires,” page 5). Note that the orb has two possible hanging positions. One position displays the stone more prominently. In order to have this side facing forward when the earrings are worn, connect the ear wire directly to a pair of 4 mm rings. If you want to make your earrings longer, use an even number of jump rings to connect the orb to the ear wire. Using an odd number will cause the orb to dangle with the alternate side facing out. materials ■ ■ ■ Sterling silver jump rings: ■ 16-gauge (1.3 mm), 6 mm inside diameter (ID), 24 ■ 18-gauge (1.0 mm), 4 mm ID, 48 6 mm beads or undrilled gemstones (you may need a smaller size if using faceted stones): 2 Pair of ear wires toolbox www.artjewelrymag.com/ toolboxes ■ Chain mail www.A r t J e w e l r y M a g . c o m EDITOR’S NOTE the symbolism of stones T he question of what particular stones “mean” is a perfect example of a can of worms just begging to be opened. After all, the world of gems and jewelry is inhabited not only by those who believe that crystals have magical healing properties, but also by those who define stones strictly by their scientific properties — finding middle ground calls for uncommon levels of diplomacy. George Frederick Kunz, in his 1913 book, The Curious Lore of Precious Stones, related one such instance of skepticism: “Here and there, however, a note of skepticism was sometimes apparent, as in the famous reply of the court jester of Emperor Charles V, to the question, Agate: calmness, courage, grace, fidelity, remembrance, longevity Alexandrite: grace, purity, abundance of joy and hope Amber: sensuality, wisdom Amethyst: sobriety, spirituality, happiness, humility, sincerity Aquamarine: health, hope, youth Carnelian: courage, joy, sexual appetite Chrysoprase: generosity, wisdom, communication, eloquence Citrine: creativity, wisdom, mental health, generosity Coral: fertility Diamond: courage, fidelity, purity, innocence, brilliance, constancy, joy Emerald: wisdom, growth, patience, perception, memory, truth, self-knowledge, youth, rebirth, hope Garnet: passion, loyalty, love, strength, vigor, courage ‘What is the property of the turquoise?’ ‘Why,’ replied he, ‘if you should happen Iolite: leadership, self-confidence to fall from a high tower whilst you were Jade: courage, wisdom, mercy, justice, love, fidelity, generosity, purity, health, longevity, harmony wearing a turquoise on your finger, the Jasper: confidence, boldness, fertility, creativity, mental clarity, purity turquoise would remain unbroken.’” And yet, we have a peculiarly human need to see meaning in the stones that we admire so much. What particular gemstones symbolize is largely determined by what culture is choosing the symbol; different peoples throughout history have credited stones with bringing certain human characteristics to the fore, or with warding off particular external influences or internal failings. Anyone trying to determine an exact meaning for each stone will confront the inescapable truth that symbols hold the meanings that we give them and have the power that we allow them. Here’s a list of some common gemstones paired with their most commonly named symbolic meanings. —HLW Hematite: courage Labradorite: vision, spiritual guidance Lapis lazuli: power, wisdom, insight, intuition Moonstone: rebirth and new beginnings, good fortune, intelligence Pearl: innocence, purity, modesty, humility Ruby: glory, courage, power, charity, dignity, passion Sapphire: tranquility, amiability, hope, sight, contemplation, truth, virtue Tigereye: willpower, confidence, personal insight Topaz: chastity, friendship, fidelity, hope, courage, gentleness, integrity Turquoise: wisdom, romance, spiritual love, earth, happiness, hope, good health Zircon: respect www.A r t J e w e l r y M a g . c o m make ear wires your own materials ■ a B C D Handmade ear wires can range from simple to elaborate, with spiral embellishments, forged edges, or granulated designs. The benefits of creating your own ear wires are that you get the design you want, the size that fits your needs, and the style that complements your particular project. Cut two 60 mm (23 ⁄ 8 -in.) pieces of 20gauge (0.8 mm) wire. Use a needle file to file one end of each piece flush, then use sandpaper to remove any burs. Use flatnose pliers to make a 90° bend 10 mm (approximately ½ in.) from one end of the wire [A]. Using roundnose pliers on the short end, make a loop [B]. To form the curve for the ear, bend the long tail of the wire around a dowel. (I used a size 17 [12 mm-diameter] knitting needle) [C]. Sterling silver wire: 20-gauge (0.8 mm), round, half-hard, 12 cm (4¾ in.) toolbox www.artjewelrymag.com/ toolboxes ■ Wirework Push the outside of the curve against the dowel while bending the end of the tail slightly outward to give the ear wire more form [D]. Use wire cutters to trim the tail to your desired length. With a needle file and sandpaper, file and de-bur the end of the wire, giving the tip a smooth surface where it enters the ear. Lay the ear wire on a bench block, and hammer the curves slightly with a ballpeen or planishing hammer to workharden them and to give the wire a forged look. Use a rawhide mallet to flatten and harden the entire surface. Your ear wire will likely widen during hammering; reshape the ear wire as needed. Repeat to make the second ear wire. Beth Hall is a jewelry artisan and musician based in Westborough, Massachusetts. She and her husband, Barry Hall, perform Celtic, Renaissance, and Medieval music under the name “Nine Stones.” More of Hall’s work can be seen at www.ninestones.com/adderstone/jewelry; she may be contacted by e-mail at [email protected]. www.A r t J e w e l r y M a g . c o m