stargaze infant/toddler sleep sack option A option B Safer than a blanket, a sleep sack keeps little ones warm and cozy without any worries. A generous side zipper and optional shoulder closures make it easy to put on. Easy enough for a beginner, you can quickly sew up a few in different fabrics for cozy naps year round. stargaze - size chart size sleep sack chest width sleep sack finished length small appx. 3-9 months 34.5 inches 31 inches medium appx. 9-18 months 36.5 inches 35 inches large appx. 18-36 months 38.5 inches 40 inches When selecting a size, remember to consider your baby should have plenty of room to move their feet - you may want to allow 6” at the bottom. what you will need BODY: woven craft-weight cotton or blend (quilting prints, etc.), jersey, lightweight fleece or flannel. LINING: flannel, jersey or woven craft-weight cotton FOR BEST RESULTS, BE SURE TO PRE-WASH FABRICS. NOTIONS: size small requires a 16” zipper, medium and large require a 22” zipper (these are common dress zipper lengths). Option A: 3/4” wide hook and loop tape for shoulder closure - 1.5” total cut into two pieces 3/4” each BUTTONS ARE NOT RECOMMENDED. how-to: page 1 your child’s size chart date a - chest b - waist c- hip d- length/height notes how-to: page 2 legend of symbols seam attachment point join these two numbered pieces gather/pleat between these two points ease between these two points direction for pleat/dart to be pressed beginning or end of vent/pleat button or snap buttonhole zipper ending slash/cut here stitch line grainline as indicated ALL OTHERS AS MARKED for these diagrams how-to: page 3 fabric right side lining right side fabric reverse side lining reverse side printing layout how-to: page 4 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 45” wide 36” long cutting & yardage guide FOLD LINE *this guide shows common 45” widths folded with the selvedge (fabric edge) to the centre. For directional patterns, be sure to lay out as shown. See “Getting Started” for more. 2 1 Layout applies to lining as well. 45” wide FOLD LINE FOLD LINE 40” long 45” long SMALL 45” wide 2 2 1 1 MEDIUM how-to: page 5 LARGE getting started 1. Begin by printing all the required pattern pieces. They are designed to fit on standard letter size (8.5” x 11”) paper. Refer to the 1” scale guide to be sure the size is correctly printed. 2. When all your pieces are printed you can begin to assemble the pattern – refer to the printing layout for reference if needed. Arrange the pieces in order, noting the numbers and letters for matching. Fold or cut precisely along the top and right hand sides; when ready, begin to tape to the lower left hand sides and work your way through the pages. 3. Determine the size you will need and cut following the lines as indicated. You can change a pattern to fit a size as necessary before you cut. If you need to make a pattern longer, cut along the indicated lines and spread the pieces apart to the desired length. If you need to make a pattern shorter, fold along the indicated lines and overlap to the length you need. 4. Using the cutting and yardage guide for reference, lay out your pattern pieces, noting the grainline and any pieces that may need to be placed on a fold. Pieces cut on a fold will be mirrored when open. 5. Pieces cut on a single layer of fabric are cut with the pattern on the right side of the fabric as shown. Pieces cut from two layers are cut with the pattern on the wrong side of the fabric. If your fabric is directional, meaning the print has a top and bottom be sure your pieces face the same way or you may have an upside down piece! 6. If you need to cut multiples of a piece you may want to make a photocopy/additional print and lay everything out at once. 7. When you have laid out your pieces, pin them in place. It’s a good idea to cut your pieces flat on your working surface – never pick them up and trim in your hand as they can shift or stretch. 8. Matching points like or can be marked with chalk or when at the edge of fabric, marked with a small cut no more than ¼”. how-to: page 6 how to make it 1. For option A, cut hook and loop tape pieces – for each shoulder you will need a square piece about 3/4” in size. To prevent the piece from shifting, you can cut a thin strip of tape (masking tape works well) and tape the piece down, placing the soft loop tape on the back lining pieces and scratchy hook tape on the front outer pieces. When you have sewn one side, carefully remove the tape and continue sewing – do not sew through the tape as it may leave glue on your needle. Sew all four pieces in place. basted zipper end point zipper, back side sewn how-to: page 7 2. Pin the two front pieces together at the centre and sew a 3/4“ seam from the zipper endpoint to the bottom. Baste a 3/4“seam from the endpoint to the neckline and press the seam open and flat. 3. Lay on a flat surface, right side down. Centre your zipper over the basted area, back side up. For easiest sewing, baste in place by hand or machine. Turn over and topstitch down one side, across, and up using a zipper foot. You want to be close to the teeth but not too close, about 1/4” – 3/8”. Remove the basting stitches. 4. Pin the two front lining pieces together at the centre and again, sew a 3/4” seam from the zipper endpoint to the bottom. Press open and flat. open 5. Pin together the front and back pieces at the sides and sew a 1/2” side seam and across the bottom. Repeat for the lining, but leave open between the two markings as indicated. sewn open insert how-to: page 8 You will now be joining the two parts around the armholes, neck and zipper. Start by turning the outer portion rightside out and insert into the lining portion, zipper openings together. 6. Option A: Starting at one side of the neckline, match up and pin all the way around the armholes and neck. Sew a 1/2” seam all the way around from zipper opening to zipper opening, leaving about 1/2” from the zipper edge. To finish around the zipper, pin or baste the lining to the outer zipper/seam and sew a narrow 1/4” seam through all three layers. Stop 1/2” from the top, pivot the fabric and join the 1/2” neck/armhole allowance. Cut small slits all around the curves of the neckline and armhole so that the two will lie flat when turned inside out (do NOT cut too close to the seam). 7. Option B: Pin the neck together and around the zipper, lining up the two raw edges of fabric. Carefully sew around the neck, pivot at the zipper and sew the layers together (reduce seam allowance to 1/4” when closing the zipper portion). Clip the neckline corner as shown. Repeat up the other side and around. 8. Line up the side seam of the lining and outer portion and pin around the armhole; sew a 1/2“ seam starting about 3” down from one shoulder and ending about 3 down from the other. Carefully turn reach through bottom of lining and pull neckline and shoulders right side out. open clip 9. Open the shoulder seams and pin together at the shoulders, lining up the two neckline seams, with right sides facing each other; sew across the shoulders to join. Carefully press the seams open and flat. You will notice there is still an opening along the armhole. join shoulders this is now closed this is still open how-to: page 9 10. Reach inside, partially turning inside-out and pull shoulders through from inside; stitch closed remainder of open armhole, lining up the shoulder seams. Clip small slits all around the curves of the neckline and armhole so that the two will lie flat when turned inside out (do NOT cut too close to the seam). bring open part together sew opening shut 11. FINISHING BOTH OPTIONS: Carefully turn the whole sleep sack right side out through the opening in the bottom of the lining. Lay flat and turn in the 3/4” seam allowance at the bottom – sew a small stitch as close to the edge as possible by machine or hand and then push the lining back inside the body of the sleep sack. open end - turn in here notes questions? email us at [email protected] © 2013 loulou james |creative studio how-to: page 10 close
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