1. hobbies and interests
2. needlework

Page |1
L’il More Than Your
Average Rag Doll
A child’s play doll* By Colleen Babcock
*This doll is only suitable as a play doll for children
3 years of age or older. The button eyes and
button details on this doll could pose a choking
hazard to children under 3.
Supply List For Basic Doll Body
 ½ yard (0.5m) of high thread count cotton
in skin colour for the body (I use Hoffman
Watercolour Batik Style no 1895 in
September)
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Fairfield’s Poly-fil fibrefill or similar
polyester stuffing
Ball of yarn for hair (I used Sirdar’s Big
Softie)
Felting needles; both a single needle and
multiple needles mounted in a handle
such as Clover’s Needle Felting Tool
Standard sewing equipment: sewing
machine, pins, sewing shears etc.
Size 10 or 11 sewing machine needle
Hand sewing needles including: a long
slim needle such as a John James Long
Darner No. 7 and a long 5” (12.7cm) doll
maker’s needle
Mechanical pencil/purple fade away
marking pen
High quality polyester thread (such as Gütermann) in regular and strong weights
(such as upholstery or button thread) to match fabrics and strong thread to match
hair
Two ⅝” (1.6cm) buttons for eyes in appropriate eye colour
Small scraps of white and black felt for eyes
Optional: Haemostats (US spelling is hemostats) – a great turning tool but not
necessary
Barbara Willis’ small stuffing fork or similar stuffing tool
Powdered blush make-up
Tacky Glue
Read all directions through before beginning.
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Page |2
All seam allowances are ¼ ” (6mm) unless otherwise stated. All
seam allowances are included in the pattern and given
measurements.
Pattern pieces should be copied onto card stock and cut out
exactly on the line. Trace the pattern onto the material using a
mechanical pencil.
Note that a solid line on the pattern pieces indicates that you
trace and sew directly on this line before cutting the pattern
piece out. Then you cut the piece around the seam leaving a ¼ ”
(6mm) seam allowance. A solid line with a dotted line on the
pattern indicates that a seam allowance has been included
meaning that you cut out the pattern piece directly on the outer
solid line.
Your stitch length should be set to 1.5 which is 15 stitches per
inch. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of
every seam (except when sewing a gathering stitch).
Stuffing Tip:
Normally, I stuff my art dolls very
firmly , but these dolls work better
somewhere in between light and firm
stuffing. What do I mean by “firm”
stuffing or “light” stuffing?
Light = If you squeeze your right index
finger to your right thumb and use
your left hand to feel the base of your
thumb on the right hand, that is about
the firmness of “light” stuffing
Firm = If you squeeze your right baby
finger to your right thumb as tightly as
you can and use your left hand to feel
the base of your thumb on the right
hand, that is about the firmness of
“firm” stuffing. “Firm” stuffing should
feel like a ripe kiwi fruit.
Click the link to watch my You Tube
video on how to stuff for more tips.
You may find it helpful to use an open toe foot on your sewing
machine. This allows you to see the lines you are sewing on –
especially handy when you are manoeuvring around little
fingers. Different manufacturers call these by different names
¼” foot (Bernina), embroidery foot, satin stitch foot, or Custom Crafted Zig Zag Foot (no
kidding – that is what my Janome dealer calls it). Whatever you call it, it should
look something like this:
Please ensure that the arrow on each of the pattern pieces is lined up so that it
is parallel to the selvedge edge of the fabric, particularly when cutting out the
head patterns.
The Head
Hint: This head is a variation on a baseball head pattern, so if you picture how a baseball
is sewn together, you get the idea of how this head is assembled. This part of the doll is
the trickiest bit of sewing so we’ll do it straight off and get it over with!
1.
Trace the head-front/back and head-side pattern pieces onto the wrong side of a
single skin fabric using a mechanical pencil. Note that the face pieces are the only
pattern pieces cut on the bias. Make sure that the arrows on the patterns are
aligned with the straight of grain of the fabric (to say that another way, the arrows
on the patterns should be parallel to the selvedge edge of the fabric). Be sure to
transfer the mark at the chin as well as the marks showing the head-back opening
on both head
pieces.
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2.
Cut out the head-front/back and
head-side pieces directly on the
traced lines.
3.
To begin to sew the head pieces together, match the chin mark on the headfront/back to the chin mark on the head-side piece with right sides together and
pin.
Then, match the raw edges where the cheeks round out and pin.
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Page |4
Then match raw edges of the
fabric between the chin mark
and cheeks easing the fabric
and pin.
4.
To match the back portion of
the head-front/back piece to
the head-side piece begin with
right sides together and line up
the marks denoting the headback opening on the headfront/back piece with the
corresponding marks on the
head-side piece. Match the cut
edges of the head-side to the
edges of the head-front/back,
easing the fabric particularly
where the fabric is curved at
the top of the head.
5.
By hand, baste the head pieces together, leaving the opening open. Please don’t
be tempted to skip this step as it makes sewing the head together so much easier
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when you don’t have to contend
with pins at the sewing machine.
By machine, stitch the head pieces
together where you have basted
them.
I have found that basting the head pieces together, especially when the pieces are
small, saves a lot of time and aggravation. Pins can slip and slide and get in the way
at a sewing machine. It may seem like the basting takes more time, but I have
always found it actually saves time. Try it.
6.
Using your fingers or haemostats, reach into the head through the opening in the
back of the head and pull the head right side out. Check for any strange tucks in
the fabric. If you need to, turn the head wrong side out again, unpick the offending
area and just re-sew that section to rid yourself of tucks.
7.
Stuff the head firmly
through the opening
at the back.
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Page |6
The Body, Arms and Legs
8.
Trace the body pattern onto
the wrong side of the skin
coloured fabric folded with
right sides together, making
sure to transfer the marks
below the shoulders. Without
cutting out the body piece,
sew around the body shape
leaving the areas marked on
the pattern open at the
shoulders and along the
bottom of the body. Cut out
the body leaving a ¼” (6mm)
seam allowance along the
seams & cutting directly on
the traced line at the bottom
of the body. Turn the body
right side out.
9.
Trace the leg pattern twice onto the wrong side of a doubled piece of skin coloured
cotton, folded with right sides together. Be sure the arrows on the pattern
indicating grain-lines are lined up with the straight of grain. By machine, sew
around the leg shapes leaving both the top and the toe open.
10.
Cut out the legs
leaving a ¼” (6mm)
seam allowance
along the seams
and cutting right on
the remaining
traced line at the
top of the leg and at
the toe. Clip the
seam allowance
behind the bent
knee and at both
sides of the ankle.
11.
Open up the toes and finger-press the seams open just at the end of the toe.
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Match the seam at the
top of the foot to the
bottom seam of the
foot. Pin in place.
12.
Place the toe template on the
flattened top of the foot so
that the curved toes are ¼”
(6mm) from the cut edge of
the foot. Trace the curve for
the toes. Trace the toes onto
the other foot in the same
way.
13.
By machine, sew
the toes, being sure
to backstitch at the
beginning and end
of your seam. You
will need to run
your stitches off the
edge of the foot at
the sides. Trim
away the fabric at
the toes leaving a
¼” (6mm) seam allowance along the curved seam. Turn the legs right side out.
14.
Stuff the leg firmly. To keep the ankle area strong, try to get one piece of stuffing
that goes from the bottom of the heel, right up to the mid-calf area. Leave the top
3” (7.6cm) of the leg, as marked on the pattern, free of stuffing.
15.
Match the seam running along the top of the leg to seam running on the underside
of the leg at the top of the leg. By machine, stitch the leg opening closed ¼” (6mm)
from the edge.
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16.
With your mechanical pencil, lightly mark
four lines along the curved toes to create 5
separate toes for each foot.
In the accompanying photograph the pencil
lines were difficult to see so I’ve darkened
them to make them more visible.
17.
Thread a long, thin hand sewing needle such as a John James Longer Darner No. 7
needle with a single strand of about 1 yard (1m) strong thread such as Gütermann’s
upholstery thread. Tie a knot in the long end of the thread and then ‘pop’ it into
the fabric at the bottom of the first toe line. ‘Popping your thread’ simply means
that you bury your knot by pulling it through one layer of the fabric so it is hidden
between the two layers. Then wrap the thread over the top of the toe like a whip
stitch, bringing the
needle back up
through the toe where
you started. Gently
but firmly pull on the
thread to indent and
define the toe area.
Repeat the whip stitch
over the end of the
toe, bring your needle
back up to where you
started, again, pulling
on the thread to
indent the toe area.
18.
Move the needle over only a few
threads in the weave of the fabric and
angle the needle below the surface of
the fabric to exit at the bottom of the
next toe line. Continue to stitch the
toes using two whip stitches per toe
before moving to the next toe.
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19.
When all the toes have been
stitched, anchor off your thread
and bury the tail somewhere in
the foot. Repeat for the second
leg.
20.
To attach the legs to the body, pin the top of the legs to the back of the body, with
the raw edges at the top of the leg even with the raw edges at the bottom of the
body.
To be placed correctly, the legs will point up
toward the neck of the body at the back with
the heels facing the front of the body. To
make stitching easier, you may want to
baste the legs in place first.
21.
By machine, stitch each leg to the body through the single layer of fabric using a ¼”
(6mm) seam allowance. When you finish stitching, flip the legs down; the raw
edge on the opening of the body where you stitched the legs will fold in and the
legs will face the correct direction.
22.
Using the largest pieces of
stuffing that you can fit
through the opening at
the body, stuff the body
firmly. Begin by stuffing
through the bottom
opening; fill the neck and
shoulder areas firmly first,
working your way down
toward the bottom of the
body where the stuffing
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P a g e | 10
does not have to be quite so firm. When the body is sufficiently filled, turn under
the raw edges at the front of the body so that the folded edge meets the folded
edge where the legs have been sewn on at the back of the body opening. Ladder
stitch the opening closed with a hand sewing needle and strong thread. To make
the seam strong it is advisable to keep your stitches small and stitch the area twice.
If you don’t know how to do the ladder stitch, have a look at the diagram above.
I’ve used red thread so you can see the stitch better. The blue lines indicate where
the thread is travelling through the fabric. When you pull the thread taut, the two
bits of fabric butt together. You should pull the thread taut as you go, but I have
left it loose at the end here so you can see the stitch better.
23.
Trace two of the arm pattern
onto the wrong side of a
doubled piece of skin
coloured fabric, folded with
right sides together. By
machine, sew around the
arm & hand leaving the top
of the arm open. Cut out
the arms and hands making
sure to clip between the
thumb and the mitten shape
representing the fingers.
You should be clipping so
close that there are only 2 or
so threads in the weave of the fabric between the end of your clip and the seam –
so it should be scary close! Clip at the inside of the wrist as well, although it is not
essential that this clip is quite so close to the seam.
24.
Turn each arm and hand right side out. You may find it helpful to reach inside the
hand with a pair of haemostats to turn the thumb first and then turn the rest of the
hand and arm. Press each arm.
25.
Use your mechanical pencil to mark fingers in the mitten shaped part of each hand.
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Lightly mark in three lines to delineate four fingers for each hand (with the thumb
that makes 5). Use the finger lines marked on the hand pattern as a guide for how
long the finger lines should be.
26.
By machine, sew through both
layers of fabric along each marked
finger line on each hand.
27.
To stuff the fingers, take a small amount of stuffing and hold it in your hand.
Ideally using one of Barbara Willis’ small stuffing forks or alternatively a chopstick,
twirl the fork over the stuffing until it forms a small Q-tip-like (cotton bud-like)
shape. Slide the stuffing on the fork into the channel created by the stitching for
each finger. Stuff each finger and thumb in this way.
28.
Using haemostats or other stuffing tool, fill
the rest of the hand with stuffing and
continue to stuff the rest of the arm, making
sure the wrist area is particularly firm. Do not
stuff the top 2” (5.1cm) of the arm as marked
on the pattern. This is essential so that her
arms hang correctly.
29.
To attach the arms to the body, pull open the opening at the top of the arms and
match the seams. By machine, stitch the arm opening closed ¼” (6mm) from the
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edge.
30.
Slide an arm into each opening at the
shoulders of the body so that the
thumbs point up. Pin the arms in
place and then ladder stitch the arms
to the body using strong thread and a
hand sewing needle. Use small
stitches and repeat the ladder stitch
twice to ensure the arms are secure
and the opening is completely closed.
31.
To attach the head to the body,
grab the neck with a pair of
haemostats or your fingers and
push it into the opening at the
back of the head, rocking the head
onto the neck.
32.
Using strong thread and a hand sewing needle, ladder stitch the head to the neck.
Stitch around the head twice to be sure the head is secure.
The Eyes
33.
Trace the eyelid template onto a doubled piece of skin coloured fabric folded with
right sides together. Before cutting out the eyelids, sew by machine on the traced
curved line leaving the flat bottom edge of the eyelid open. Cut out the eyelids
leaving a ¼” (6mm) seam allowance along the seams & cutting directly on the
traced line at the bottom of the eyelid. Turn the eyelids right side out.
34.
Fold under the raw edges at the bottom of the eyelid by ¼” (6mm) and press.
35.
Trace the template for the whites of the eyes onto a white piece of felt twice and
cut out.
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36.
Slide one felt white of the eyes inside each eyelid, so that pointed ends of the
whites of the eyes sit just below the corners of the eyelid. Place one ⅝” (1.6cm)
button on top of each white felt piece so that the middle of the button sits just
below the folded bottom edge of the eyelid.
37.
Using a single strand of
strong thread and a hand
sewing needle, stitch each
button securely to the felt
white of the eyes and the
back of each eyelid, stitching
right through the back of the
eyelid just above the fold.
Do not cut of the tail of the
thread.
38.
Using the remaining thread, stitch the button eyes securely to the doll’s head.
Place the eyes so that the bottom of the button eye is even with where the cheek
starts to round out and the outer edges of the eye are approximately ½” (12mm)
from the seam at the cheeks. To make the eyelids look as though they are
attached to the doll’s head, ladder stitch the eyelid’s to the doll’s head using
regular sewing thread and a hand sewing needle to secure the top curve of the
eyelid to the face.
39.
Trace the template for the white highlight of the eyes onto a white piece of felt
twice and cut out. Trace the template for the pupils of the eyes onto a piece of
black felt twice and cut out.
40.
Using tacky glue, glue the black felt pupil to the centre of the button eye, making
sure the stitching is covered and the top part of the pupil is covered by the bottom
edge of the eyelid.
41.
Using tacky glue,
glue a white felt
highlight to the left
hand side of the
edge of each felt
pupil.
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The Hair
42.
Search your collection of books for a
book that measures 10” (25.4cm) tall.
If you don’t have a book that size, just
cut a piece of cardboard to 10” x 5”
(25.4cm x 12.7cm). Wrap the yarn you
have selected for the doll’s hair around
the book, wrapping from top to bottom
so the yarn sits close together with no
gaps. Continue to wrap until you have
a width of hair that measures 4½”
(11.4cm) across.
43.
Use a pair of scissors to cut the wrapped yarn all along one end of the book. This
will give you 20” long pieces of hair.
44.
Grasping the hair at the centre of
the bunch of yarn, place the
centre of the yarn at the centre
top of the doll’s head. Arrange
the yarn so that each strand of
yarn sits as close to side by side as
you can manage.
Use pins to hold the hair in place.
Use a short piece of the yarn to tie
the hair loosely into bunches at
either side of her face, just
below where you would
image her ears to be (if
she had ears!).
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45.
Use a single felting needle to jab the hair into the head in a straight line down the
centre back of the head. Continue to jab the yarn until the yarn is well rooted in
the doll’s head and it begins to look like a part in the hair.
46.
Although the felting needle will have rooted the hair, it will not be strong enough
to withstand continued play, so secure the hair further by stitching it down. With a
hand sewing needle and a single strand of strong thread in a colour to match the
hair, sew a half back stitch down the centre back of the hair.
47.
To create the look of loose hair
buns, first untie the hair bunches
and loop the cut ends of the yarn
up securing the ends by retying
the yarn around the looped hair.
When securing the hair, make
sure the knot is tight and that it is
hidden on the inside of the hair.
48.
Secure the hair buns to the side of the
doll’s face by jabbing through the
inside of the looped hair buns with
either a single felting needle, or
ideally, several felting needles
mounted in a handle (such as Clover’s
Needle Felting Tool). Separate the
loops of yarn in the hair buns and push
the felting needle into the inside of
the bun, jabbing repeatedly into the
head, so that the hair is rooted to the
head.
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49.
Using the felting tool, jab all
over the yarn between the
part and the hair buns to
help keep the rest of the
yarn in place.
50.
Further secure the hair buns by using a long 5” (12.7cm) doll maker’s needle and
strong thread in a colour to match the hair, to tack the hair in place at the top of
the hair buns where the yarn has been tied around the looped hair. Anchor the
thread once the hair buns have been securely stitched and bury the tail of the
thread.
51.
Create loops to form a fringe (bangs for
North Americans) by wrapping a length
of yarn around 2-3 of your fingers. Cut
the length of yarn when you have
wrapped 5 loops around your fingers.
Holding one end of the loops in one
hand, use a felting tool to jab the ends
of the loops at the centre front of the
dolls head right at the top of the head
near the part until the hair is rooted.
Use a hand sewing needle and single
strand of strong thread that matches
the hair colour to tack the ends of the
loops to the doll’s head, thereby reenforcing the fringe/bangs.
52.
As a finishing touch, blush the doll’s cheeks by applying some pink powdered blush
make-up on the rounded part of her cheeks. This blush will fade with play and lots
of kisses, but it can always be reapplied. When I make art dolls, I spray the faces
with spray fixative, but to keep things chemical free for times when nothing but
kisses will do, we’ll skip this step.
© Colleen Babcock 2012, All Rights Reserved
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Please note: This doll is only suitable as a play doll for children 3 years of age or older. The
button eyes and button details on this doll could pose a choking hazard to children under 3.
Download of this pattern entitles you to make as many Lil More Than Your Average Rag
Dolls as you like for your personal use, including, to give as gifts or up to 12 sets per year to
sell, provided credit for design is given to Colleen Babcock on all hang tags and flyers.
© Colleen Babcock 2012, All Rights Reserved. This is a free pattern and is not intended for
resale. Thank you for respecting the designer’s copyright.
Colleen Babcock is a craft and cloth doll designer, offering patterns, online classes, and inperson classes across North America and the UK. Visit www.themagicbean.typepad.com to
see Colleen’s full range of patterns and to get your hands on other free projects.
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© 2012 Colleen Babcock, All Rights Reserved
Op
en
Eyelid
Trace 2
White of Eye
Template
Cut 2
Pupil
Template
Cut 2
Please note:
Templates do not
have seam
allowances as
these pieces are
not sewn to
anything. Trace
& cut out on
outer line.
Head Front/Back
Cut 1
Eye Highlight
Template
Cut 2
L’il More Than Your Average Rag
Doll©Colleen Babcock 2012,
All Rights Reserved
Tip: To ensure you are printing
the pattern to the right scale, set
“Page Scaling” to “None”, then
measure the 1” square box to
double check the scale and size
of your pattern.
1” x 1”
If this box does not
measure 1” x 1” (2.5
cm x 2.5 cm) then
please enlarge or
reduce pattern
accordingly
Chi
n
L’il More Than Your Average Rag Doll
©Colleen Babcock 2012, All Rights Reserved
Op
en
Chi
n
Head-Side
Cut 1
Toe Template
Trace onto toe
area of each foot
If this box does not
measure 1” x 1” (2.5
cm x 2.5 cm) then
1” x 1”
please enlarge or
reduce pattern
accordingly
Tip: To ensure you are printing
the pattern to the right scale, set
“Page Scaling” to “None”, then
measure the 1” square box to
double check the scale and size
of your pattern.
1” x 1”
If this box does not
measure 1” x 1” (2.5
cm x 2.5 cm) then
please enlarge or
reduce pattern
accordingly
L’il More Than Your Average Rag Doll
©Colleen Babcock 2012,
Ope
n
en
Op
Body
Trace 1
Open
Open
L’il More Than Your
Average Rag Doll
©Colleen Babcock 2012,
All Rights Reserved
Here
Stuff To
1” x 1”
Arm
Trace 2
If this box does not
measure 1” x 1” (2.5
cm x 2.5 cm) then
please enlarge or
reduce pattern
accordingly
Ope
n
Leg
Trace 2
Stu
Open
ff to
L’il More Than Your
Average Rag Doll
©Colleen Babcock 2012,
All Rights Reserved
her
e
1” x 1”
If this box does not
measure 1” x 1” (2.5
cm x 2.5 cm) then
please enlarge or
reduce pattern
accordingly