1. hobbies and interests
2. arts and crafts
3. jewelry making

Wire Design Basics Book 2
More Techniques and Designs for
Beginner to Intermediate Jewelry Designers
By Gary L. Helwig
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Introduction:
by Gary Helwig
The purpose of this document is to expand on the information provided in the first book in
this series, “Wire Design Basics.” In this book, we will address new skills and projects that
use these skills. Every attempt will be made to provide information that is new and was
not covered in “Wire Design Basics.”
This book presumes that the reader is comfortable with the skills and projects taught in
“Wire Design Basics.” For those readers who haven’t reviewed “Wire Design Basics”
lately, the first 26 pages of this book review the skills covered in that book. If you are comfortable with the skills from “Wire Design Basics” you can jump directly to page 27. If you
saved the pages of Wire Design Basics on your hard drive, you won’t need to save pages 3
through 26 of this book.
Organization:
Starting with page 27, this book will be organized into sections
starting with one or more pages teaching specific skills and followed by a project that uses those skills. The projects walk the
reader through every step in making a piece of jewelry. When
completed you should have several pairs of earrings, and a few
bracelets or necklaces. What is more important is that you will
have the skills to make new jewelry designs, using the techniques
shown here.
Supplies & Tools:
The following supplies and tools are used in this document: 18
gauge wire, 20 gauge wire, 22 gauge wire, 24 gauge wire several
head pin findings, several beads, and the following tools:
o flush cutter
o round nose pliers or round-flat pliers
o chain nose pliers (2)
o Nylon Jaw Pliers
o Fine Step Jaw Pliers or Master Coiler
o WigJig Olympus or similar jig.
I strongly recommend that you begin the projects shown in this
book using inexpensive copper practice wire. After making
three of the pieces shown in copper, you should then graduate
to more expensive wire for making the final, finished pieces.
This recommendation applies to every design.
Paper Clip Earrings (free design
from WigJig University)
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
How to Cut Wire Using the Flush Cutter (Review)
When cutting wire there are two concerns that must
be considered. First, is a safety concern, in that
the loose end of the cut wire can fly through the air
when cut. Please be careful so that no one is injured
by the loose end. Often, it is a good idea to wear
safety goggles or glasses when cutting wire.
Beveled
Side
Flat Side
Figure 18 Cutting Wire
Blunt
Flat Side of
Flush Cutter
Sharp
Beveled
Side
Figure 19 The Cut Wire
Second is both a safety and an aesthetic concern.
Always cut the wire so that the dull side of the cut
is on the finished piece. This reduces the amount
of filing required and eliminates the possibility that
a sharp wire segment could injure someone or that
clothing could snag on the end of the wire.
When wire is cut with the flush cutter, one side of
the wire after the cut will be sharp and the other
side will be blunt or dull. See Figures 18 and 19 for
pictures of the orientation of the flush cutter and the
resulting blunt and sharp cut wire segments.
I suggest learning the skill of holding both sides of
the wire in one hand while using the other hand to
cut the wire with the flush cutter. This approach will
minimize the possibility of the wire flying away and
causing injury. For cutting wire close to the end, use
the index finger on the hand holding the flush cutter
to hold the short wire segment against the pliers.
This prevents them from flying away. Finally, try to
cut wire over a waste basket to catch the cut segment.
Caution!!
The small ends of wire that are cut may fly off after cutting. This
can create an eye hazard. Please make sure to control both ends of
the wire that is cut.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
How to Straighten Wire (Review):
Introduction:
Almost all wire is delivered in spools or coils. This means that before the wire is used, one
must remove the natural curl in the wire that results from being coiled. Removing the
natural curves in the wire is necessary to make consistent finished pieces. Almost every
project covered in this book assumes that the reader has already removed the curl from the
wire being used.
Removing the curl from wire is accomplished in one of two ways. Either the wire is repeatedly pulled between your thumb and forefinger, with increasing pressure on the wire or
the wire is pulled through the jaws of Nylon Jaw Pliers. While Nylon Jaw Pliers are not
absolutely essential for a wire-worker, they are the next thing to essential. Use the jaws of
the Nylon Jaw Pliers to straighten wire, including wire that has been kinked. It saves wear
and tear on your fingers. Remember to grip the wire firmly in the jaws of the pliers, but
not so firmly that you can not pull the wire through the jaws.
In some cases you may find that the wire is slippery and therefore it is hard to pull through
the jaws of the pliers. In these cases, go ahead and make a loop in the wire (skill shown in
succeeding pages) and grip the wire at this loop to allow pulling it through the jaws of the
pliers.
Pulling the wire through the jaws of Nylon Jaw Pliers has the added benefit that it hardens
the wire very slightly each time you do this. One way to partially harden wire is to pull it
through the jaws of nylon jaw pliers thirty or forty times.
In summary, after you have cut any wire segment, the next step is always to straighten the
wire.
It is assumed in all the projects in this book that the reader will perform this step and is may not be explicitly mentioned otherwise!
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
How to Make a “P” Loop
Introduction:
The basic loop shown at the bottom of this
page is, while very simple, also very important. Most wire components begin and/or
end with a simple loop. These instructions
show how to make a simple loop that I call a
“P” loop because of its shape.
Step One:
Grasp the wire with round nose pliers, as
shown in Figure 20. Bring the end of the wire
to a position flush with the edge of the round
nose pliers as shown in this figure.
Figure 20 Grasp the Wire
Step Two:
Push the wire with your thumb up and
over the round nose pliers until it rests
against the opposite side of the pliers.
Push with your thumb as close to the
pliers as possible. You may need to
open the pliers, move the wire and regrasp the wire, then twist the pliers to
fully close the loop.
Figure 21B- Wrap
the Wire View 2
Figure 21A- Wrap the
Wire Around the Pliers
Step Three:
Remove from the pliers and inspect. The size of the
loop is determined by how far down the pliers the
loop is made. Closer to the tip makes a smaller loop,
and further from the tip makes a larger loop.
The great majority of wire projects start with just
this type of loop. A few start with another type of
loop, called an eye loop. The following pages show
how to make an eye loop.
Figure 22 The Finished Loop
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
Making an Eye Loop
Introduction:
Twist pliers
Hold wire
The eye loop is a modification to the simple “P”
loop shown above. Aesthetically, the eye loop is
more appealing because the loop is centered on the
wire tail. The eye loop is also an important element
to the finding called an “eye pin”.
Step One:
Figure 23 Grasp the Loop
Make a “P” loop using the instructions on the previous page.
Step Two:
Grasp the loop with the tip of the round nose pliers as shown in Figure 23. While holding
the wire in your non-dominant hand, and the round nose pliers in your dominant hand,
twist the round nose pliers very slightly up or counter-clockwise. Figure 24 shows how the
finished loop should look.
Figure 24 The Completed Eye
Loop
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
Opening & Closing a Loop (Review)
Introduction:
Opening and closing loops without distorting the shape of the
loop is an important skills that enables connecting one loop to
another.
Step One:
This is accomplished rather simply by grasping the loop as
shown in Figure 25 with chain nose pliers and twisting the chain
nose pliers, moving the tip up and the base down. Figure 26 and
27 show two views of opening a loop. In these views you can
see how the loop is opened while retaining the round shape of
the loop. You can also see that the loop is ready to have another
loop, such as a bead dangle, or ear wire finding, connected.
Figure 25 Open
Loop
to open
to open
Figure 26 3/4 View
Twist pliers
Figure 27 Top View
Step Two:
Closing the loop is accomplished by grasping the loop with the
chain nose pliers as shown in Figure 26 and 27 and twisting in
the opposite direction used to open the loop. In this case, the tip
of the chain nose pliers is twisted down, while the base is twisted
up. Figure 28 shows the closed loop, grasped in the chain nose
pliers.
In the next section, I will introduce another skill, making a bead
dangle.
Figure 28 Close
Loop
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
Making a Bead Dangle (Review)
Introduction:
A bead dangle is one or more beads hanging from a loop of wire.
Figure 29 shows a picture of a bead dangle (Shown larger than actual
scale). For a beginner, a bead dangle is an important component of
many jewelry projects. In fact, a pair of earrings can be made from
a pair of ear wire findings and a bead dangle hanging from each ear
wire. Making a bead dangle is also a technique that can be used to
hang beads from a chain or other jewelry component.
Figure 29 Bead Dangle
Step One:
Make a bead dangle following the instructions below. Each bead dangle requires one or more
beads, and a head pin. The tools required to make the bead dangle are a flush cutter, chain
nose pliers, and round nose pliers.
Figure 30 Sample Head Pin
Step Two:
Begin by threading the beads onto the head
pin. An example of a head pin is shown in
Figure 30. Figure 31 shows the same head pin
with two beads.
Figure 31 Head Pin with Beads
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
Making a Bead Dangle (Continued)
Step Three:
Grasp the head pin with chain nose pliers, or
bent chain nose pliers. I like to use my non-dominant hand. (Right handed people hold the chain
nose pliers in their left hand.) Using your chain
nose pliers, grasp the head pin toward the tip of
the pliers as shown in Figure 32. Hold the beads
rather firmly against the base of the head pin.
Figure 32 Grasp Head Pin
Step Four:
Using your thumb on your dominant hand, push the head
pin to create a bend of approximately 80 degrees. (Almost
a right angle.) Push with your thumb as close to the chain
nose pliers as possible, and never at the tip of the head
pin. Figure 33 shows the proper bend.
Figure 33 Bend Wire
Figure 34A View One
Figure 34B View Two
Step Five:
Grasp the headpin using round nose pliers as close to this bend as possible while holding the
round nose pliers in your non-dominant hand. Figure 34 A and B show two views of how to
grasp on the long segment of the headpin, as close to the 80 degree bend as possible.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
Making a Bead Dangle (Continued)
Step Six:
Pressing the wire with your
thumb as close to the pliers
as possible, bend the wire
around the round nose
pliers as shown in Figure
35.
Figure 35 Bend to Form Loop, Two Views
Push
Step Seven:
Reposition the wire, as shown in Figure 36, to continue
bending the wire into a closed loop.
Figure 36 Reposition Wire
Step Eight:
Continue to push the wire with your thumb to
complete the loop as shown in Figure 37. When
completed, the wire tail should be perpendicular
to the wire segment between the beads and the
loop you have just completed. Adjust the loop
so that the loop is centered above the segment
holding the beads. This can be done by slightly
twisting the round nose pliers (if necessary).
Figure 37 Closed Loop
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
Making a Bead Dangle (Continued)
Step Nine:
Push
Down
Figure 38 Begin Wrap
Reposition the loop to a comfortable location on the
round nose pliers, keeping the loop pressed down on the
round nose pliers so that all parts of the loop touch the
pliers. Continue to hold the round nose pliers in your
non-dominant hand. Squeeze the pliers firmly, but use
only the amount of pressure required to hold the wire
without letting it move or slip. Now push down on the
wire tail of the head-pin as shown in Figure 38, to begin
wrapping the wire tail around the short wire segment
above the beads. Again, push with your thumb close to
the pliers. Keep the wire tail perpendicular to the rest
of the head-pin.
Step Ten:
Continue wrapping the wire, as shown in Figure 39.
Keep the wire tail perpendicular to the wire segment
between the beads and the loop while you push. Keep the
wraps tightly together. If necessary, use bent chain nose
pliers to assist in wrapping the wire around the neck.
Figure 39 Continue Wrap
Step Eleven:
Continue wrapping the wire for roughly two to three
full loops. When the wire tail becomes very short,
you will need to use chain nose pliers to push the wire
tail. Make the wraps tight against the center wire and
spaced evenly. Try to keep the wire tail perpendicular
to the center wire.
Figure 40 Continue Wrap
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
Making a Bead Dangle (Continued)
Step Twelve:
Continue wrap until wire is almost snug against the beads,
as shown in Figure 41.
Figure 41 Final Wrap
Cut
Step Thirteen:
Cut the wire tail off using the flush cutter. Keep
the flat side of the flush cutter toward the finished
bead dangle so that the cut is smooth.
Figure 42 Cut the Wire Tail
Step Fourteen:
After the cut is completed there will be a very short wire tail, as
shown in Figure 43.
Figure 43 Wire Tail
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
Making a Bead Dangle (Continued)
Step Fifteen:
Tuck in the wire tail using the bent chain nose pliers as
shown in Figure 44. This is done by squeezing the wire tail
with the bent chain nose pliers and slightly twisting the
chain nose pliers. Hold the bead dangle in round nose pliers
while squeezing and twisting. In order to keep the loop in
the dangle as round as possible, push the loop down the
round nose pliers as far as possible so that all of the loop is
in complete contact with one jaw of the pliers.
Figure 44 Tuck in Wire
Tail
Step Sixteen:
Inspect the finished piece.
Figure 45 Inspect Piece
In the next section of this document, I will show how to make a figure 8
connector. This is another skill that is very important as it allows us to
connect one closed loop component to another closed loop component.
The figure 8 connector also adds new ways to move for the connected
components. This motion may make a pair of earrings more interesting.
Figure 46 Bead Dangle
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
How to Make a Figure 8 Connector (Review)
Introduction:
A figure 8 connector is an important component for connecting one closed loop component to another.
Figure 47 Figure 8
Connector
Step One:
Begin by making a “P” loop in a 1.5” piece of wire as shown in Figure 48 A, B & C.
Figure 48 A, B, & C Making a P Loop Using Round Nose Pliers.
Step Two:
Remove the loop from the pliers and
grip the wire just below the loop as
shown in Figure 49, at left. Try to grasp
the piece in about the same place on the
round nose pliers as you used for the initial loop (the same distance from the tip
of the pliers). This will ensure that both
loops of the figure 8 connector will be the
same size.
Figure 49 Grip the Wire Below
the loop
Step Three:
Push the wire with your thumb up and over the
round nose pliers as shown in Figure 50. Push
with your thumb as close to the pliers as possible.
Push
Wire
Figure 50 Push the Wire
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
How to Make a Figure 8 Connector (Continued)
Push
Step Four:
Continue to push the wire until it stops against the jaws of
the round nose pliers as shown in Figure 51.
Step Five:
Remove the wire from the pliers
and reposition so that you can
complete the second loop. The new
position is shown in Figure 52.
Figure 51
Step Six:
Figure 52
Grip the wire in the jaws of the
pliers so that it doesn’t slip, and
push the wire tail up to complete
the second loop of the figure 8, as
shown in Figure 53.
Push
Step Seven:
Remove the wire from the jaws of the pliers. It should look
like the piece in Figure 54.
Figure 53
Step Eight:
Figure 54
Cut the wire tail off the figure 8, as shown
in Figure 55. Be sure to cut with the flat
side of the Flush Cutter toward the finished
figure 8. Close the finished figure 8 using
chain nose pliers.
Step Nine:
The finished figure 8 should appear
as shown in Figure 56
Figure 56 Figure 8
Figure 55 Cut
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
Make a Chain using the Wrapped Bead Link
Introduction:
This skill is one of the most important skills
that a beginning wire-worker can learn. In
fact, mastery of this skill is probably the definition of an intermediate wire-worker.
Supplies/Tools Required:
The following supplies and tools are required:
o
o
o
o
Aabout 3’ of 22 or 24 gauge wire,
1 Flush cutter,
1 Round Nose or Round-Flat Pliers, and
2 Chain Nose Pliers.
Figure 77
Desired Result:
The “Wrapped Bead Link” is shown in Figure 78. The
following steps will show how to make this link.
Figure 78
80 Degrees
Step One:
In a piece of 22 or 24 gauge wire at least 3.5 inches long,
make an 80 degree bend using chain nose pliers, about 3/4
inch from one end of the wire. See Figure 79.
Push
Step Two:
Grasp the wire next to the bend with round nose pliers or
with round-flat pliers, as shown in Figure 80 A & B.
Figure 79
Bend
Short
Segment
Grasp at bend
on short segment
Figure 80A
Figure 80B
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
Make a Chain using the Wrapped Bead Link (Continued)
Step Three:
Using your thumb, push the short wire segment around the round
nose pliers. When done, the wire should appear as shown in Figure
81.
Step Four:
Reposition your grip on the wire to the position shown in Figure 82.
Figure 81
Figure 82
Step Five:
Continue pushing the short segment around the round
nose pliers until it is in the position shown in Figure
83. The short wire segment should be perpendicular
to the longer wire tail (as shown).
Step Six:
Remove the wire
from the pliers. It
should appear as
shown in Figure
84
Figure 83
Figure 84
Step Seven:
Thread this wire segment
through the clasp, bead dangle,
or other loop, as required. See
Figure 85.
Figure 85
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
Make a Chain using the Wrapped Bead Link (Continued)
Step Eight:
Grasp the loop that you are making with chain nose
pliers as shown in Figure 86. Grasp the wire firmly, but
not so tightly that you mark the wire.
Short Wire
Segment
Step Nine:
While holding the wire with the chain nose pliers, push
the short segment around the longer segment, as shown
in Figure 87. Please note that the short segment goes on
top of the long wire segment then is pushed down, to go
under.
Long Wire
Segment
Figure 86
Step Ten:
Continue wrapping the short wire segment
around the longer wire segment as shown in
Figures 88 and 89. Try to keep the short wire
segment perpendicular to the long wire segment
as you wrap. Try to make the wrap as tight and
close together as possible.
Figure 87
As with all jewelry skills, this technique requires practice. As always with new skills, practice this technique
several times with inexpensive wire.
Figure 88
Wire connections made with this technique
are very strong. With necklaces, I like to
include a weak link in the chain to break
in case the necklace gets caught on something solid. I always want the chain to break
instead of the neck of the wearer.
Figure 89
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
Make a Chain using the Wrapped Bead Link (Continued)
Step Eleven:
Continue wrapping for about 2 and 1/2 loops. You may choose
how many times to wrap the wire. I like 2 1/2 loops because
with my chain nose pliers I am able to do 2 1/2 loops on both
sides of the beads and this will hold the beads snug.
Step Twelve:
Cut the end of the wire off as shown in Figure 90. Keep flat
side of flush cutters toward the finished piece.
Cut
Figure 90
Figure 91 shows a distant view of the piece after the cut.
While it doesn’t show in this figure, see a close up in Figure
92. This figure shows the very short wire tail left after the
cut performed in Step Twelve.
Figure 91
Step Thirteen:
Continue to grasp the wire as shown in Figure 93. Now, with
a second chain nose pliers, squeeze and twist the wire to gently
tuck in the short wire tail.
Squeeze & twist
Figure 92
The finished wrap should look as shown in Figure 94.
There should not be any loose wire. The round loop
should be centered like an eye loop on the long wire
segment. If the loop is not precisely centered, you can
adjust the position of the loop by grasping the loop
with one set of chain nose pliers and by grasping the
wrapped segment with the other pair of chain nose
pliers and twisting slightly.
Figure 93
At this point, one end of a wrapped bead link is completed. To complete the entire link, you need to add beads to the long wire segment,
and complete the wrapped loop on the other end of the link. The following instructions show how this is done.
Figure 94
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Wire Design Basics Review
Make a Chain using the Wrapped Bead Link (Continued)
Step Fourteen:
Thread beads on the long wire segment as shown in Figure
95.
Figure 95
Step Fifteen:
Figure 96
Step Sixteen:
Grasp the long wire segment with chain nose pliers
just above the beads. Keep the beads snug against
the initial wrapped loop. Use the tip of the chain nose
pliers, as this is the thinnest point on the pliers. The
goal is that the initial wrap and this final wrap be the
same size. See Figure 96 for how to grasp the piece.
Pliers shown in background
As shown in Figure 97, bend the long wire segment to
an angle of about 80 degrees. At this point, go back to
step two and follow the instructions used to make the
initial wrapped loop. Follow steps 2 through 14 as you
continue to make links in a chain. Figure 98 shows the
wrapped bead link, ready for connection to the next link
in the chain.
Connect the next link here
Figure 98
Bend
80 degrees
Figure 97
Continue making links until the chain is completed. For bracelets, I like to use 7 1/4 inches
as my target length, although some people will
require smaller bracelets and some will require
larger. For necklaces I like lengths of 16, 18
and 24 inches long. Consider the length of the
clasp that you have selected when planning your
design.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
How to Make a Spiral
Introduction:
A spiral is a relatively common decorative accessory to a jewelry piece. In fact, spirals
were used in ancient jewelry made at least 3,000 years ago. Figure 101A and 101B show
several spirals. The spirals shown in Figure 101B are based upon samples of spirals in
Mesopotamian and Egyptian ancient jewelry, made about 2,000 BC. Spirals are attractive wire accessories and can be made both by hand, or with assistance from Jig accessories
discussed later in this section.
Step One:
The first step in making a spiral by hand is to
use round nose pliers to make as small a loop
as you can in a piece of wire about 3 inches
long. The wire can be almost any gauge, but
for beginners it is better to start with 18 or
20 gauge wire. If you have both, use the 20
gauge wire for making your first spiral. The
one mandatory requirement is that the wire
be soft instead of half-hard or hard. For this
reason, Artistic Wire, copper, brass and soft
silver or gold wire will work well. See Figures
20 through 22 for instructions on how to make
the starting loop.
Figure 101A Spirals
Push
Grasp
Step Two:
Before
Figure 102 Step 2
Figure 101B Spirals
Grasp the loop with chain nose pliers as shown in Figure 102.
While holding the wire with the chain nose pliers, push the wire
a very small amount in the direction shown. Figure 103 shows
the wire position after completing the small push.
Figure 103 Step 3
After
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
How to Make a Spiral (Continued):
Step Three:
Grasp the wire, as shown in Figure 104 and continue pushing the
wire in small increments (about 30 degrees of motion per grasp
of the pliers). Continue moving the wire in the grasp of the chain
nose pliers. The one secret in making a spiral is to move the wire
in small increments. The wire should move only about 30 to 45
degrees at a time. Continue this process until the spiral is the size
that you want and inspect the finished piece.
Step Four:
Figure 104 Step 4
Leave enough of a tail to complete the connector
required for this piece. As seen above, Figure
101A and B show several different ways to finish
a spiral for incorporation into jewelry.
Figure 105 Step 4 Contd.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Review
How to Make Earrings with a Spiral -- Beginners Project 4:
Introduction:
This project incorporates a spiral into
a figure made on a WigJig. The shape
made will be 1/2 of a Diamond, or as it is
alternatively called, a tree. The design
shown in these figures was made on the
WigJig Cyclops. A very similar figure
could be made on the WigJig Delphi,
Olympus, Olympus-Lite or Electra. For
the Delphi, Olympus, or Olympus-Lite the
tree should be made using pegs on the 45
degree angle. For the Cyclops or Electra,
I have chosen to make this figure with a
30 degree angle. See Figure 122 for two
alternatives for making these earrings.
Tools and Materials:
Figure 122 Project 4
The tools required for this project are a WigJig Cyclops, Electra, Delphi, Olympus, or
Olympus-Lite, round nose pliers, chain nose or bent chain nose pliers (2), a flush cutter,
and nylon jaw pliers. The supplies required are one pair of ear wire findings, two 4 mm
beads, and 20 inches of 20 gauge wire (preferably brightly colored wire like Niobium
or Artistic Wire silver- plated copper wire.) The pictures shown below use the WigJig
Cyclops. Figure 128 shows how to adapt this design to a WigJig Olympus, Olympus-Lite,
WigJig Delphi, or Wild Wire jig.
Step One:
Cut and straighten two pieces of wire 8 inches long.
Center Peg on
Cyclops
Figure 123 Step 2
Step Two:
Outside Row
on Cyclops
Using the procedures for the wrapped
bead link, make a wrapped loop in one
end of the wire. See Figure 77. I made
this loop with only one wrap around
the long wire segment. See Figure 123
for this beginning loop.
Step 3:
Figure 124 Step 3
Insert 9 pegs in the WigJig as shown
in Figure 124
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Wire Design Basics Review
How to Make Earrings with a Spiral -- Beginners Project 4
(Continued):
Step 4:
Using the same approach that
you employed to make the Diamond in Figures 60 through 64,
place the loop on the initial peg,
and wrap the wire around the
pegs as shown in Figure 125.
1
5
3
6
8
7
9
Step 5:
Remove the wire from the
WigJig and gently flatten the
piece using the nylon jaw pliers.
(See Figure 70 and 71).
4
2
Figure 125 Step 4
Step Six:
Make a loop in the end of the wire tail and make a spiral
around this loop. See Figures 102, 103, 104 and 105. When
completed the piece should appear as shown in Figure 126.
Figure 126 Step 6
Step Seven:
Using the procedures shown in Figures 48 through 56,
make a Figure 8 connector and connect the wire piece to
the ear wire finding using this figure 8 connector. The
finished earring should appear as shown in Figure 127.
Figure 127 Step 7
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Book 2
How to Make Earrings with a Spiral -Beginners Project 4 (Continued):
A Question of Style -- or How to Choose a Jig that’s Right for You
In Beginner’s Project 4, we introduced a new earring design that can be made on any
of several different jigs. The pictures in the prior section show this pattern made on the
WigJig Cyclops. The pattern can be modified slightly to be made on the WigJig Olympus,
Olympus-Lite, Delphi, or Electra. At this point, let’s discuss the differences in this wire
component when made on each of the five potential jigs so that you can choose the jig, or
jigs that are right for you.
First, the Wild Wire Jig, the WigJig Olympus and the WigJig Olympus-Lite, all have
exactly the same hole pattern and would make this component exactly the same. These
jigs also all use pegs that are 3/32 inch in diameter. All three of these jigs have holes based
upon a square, spaced at 90 degrees and 45 degrees and separated from center to center by
1⁄4” in each row, with every other row off-set. The basic rows provide the angles of 0, 90,
180, and 270 degrees. The offset rows allow you to add the angles of 45, 135, 225, and 315
degrees. These jigs are not capable of making other angles easily. The differences between
these three jigs are that the Wild Wire uses plastic pegs and the WigJig Olympus-Lite
is smaller than the WigJig Olympus. Figure 128 shows how the earrings in Beginner’s
Project 4 can be adapted to the WigJig Olympus’s square peg pattern, using the 45 degree
angle inherent in that jig. (The spiral in this figure was added after removing the wire
from the jig.)
1
3
5
2
4
6
7
Figure 128 Pattern for
Square Jig
Next, we add to these jigs the WigJig Delphi,
which is a smaller jig, uses the same pattern
of rows and offset rows to make the angles of
0, 45, 90, 135, 180, 225, 270, and 315 degrees
just like the Olympus family. The Delphi has
metal pegs that are 1/16” in diameter, or 1/32”
smaller than the Olympus pins. The significant
difference in the Delphi is that the holes are
spaced 1/5 of an inch apart or 0.2 inches from
center to center. This means that any design
modified from the Olympus to be made on
the Delphi would be 80% of the size of the
same design made on the Olympus. Stated
another way, Delphi designs are 20% smaller
than Olympus designs. In jewelry terms, the
Olympus makes larger, bolder designs, while
the Delphi makes the same designs but smaller
and more delicate.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Book 2
How to Make Earrings with a Spiral -Beginners Project 4 (Continued):
It is not merely a choice of the Delphi or the Olympus to. There is a significant virtue
in having both the Olympus and the Delphi. When making necklace/bracelet, bracelet/
earring, or necklace/earring jewelry sets, it is almost always a good idea to make a wire
component for the necklace or bracelet on the Olympus matched with the same component
made on the Delphi to be incorporated into the earrings. This adds style to handmade
jewelry and makes it look more sophisticated.
At this point we have addressed the advantages and disadvantages of square jigs. There
are also two relatively new jigs that are based upon a round pattern instead of square.
The WigJig Cyclops and the WigJig Electra use this round pattern because it allows
incorporation of many additional angles. In fact, both of these jigs incorporate angles in 7.5
degree increments for a full 360 degrees. This allows designers to make objects that use the
very common angles of 15 degrees, 30 degrees 45 degrees and 60 degrees as well as all of the
other increments of 7.5 degrees. The WigJig Electra is the same size as the WigJig Olympus
and uses the same 3/32” pegs. The WigJig Cyclops is smaller than the Olympus, but larger
than the Delphi and uses the same 1/16” pegs as the WigJig Delphi. Similar to the Olympus
versus the Delphi, the Electra makes larger, bolder wire components, while the Cyclops
makes smaller and more delicate components.
There are three significant advantages to a round jig over a square jig. First, the additional
angles that are available, second, when you use a round jig, you can obviously make round
figures in several different radii, and third, when using a round jig you can scale pieces,
using an inner radius for a smaller pattern and an outer radius to make the same pattern
but larger. The one drawback to the round jigs is that being newer, there aren’t as may
free designs and patterns for the round jigs. The square jigs have been around longer and
there are more books and patterns available for these jigs.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig (www.wigjig.com)
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Accessories for your Jig
In “Wire Design Basics” (book 1), we discussed our first accessory for your jig -- the Spiral
Maker. With this accessory we are able to make spirals. In that book we did not discuss
a second function of the Spiral Maker in that we can use the Spiral Maker as a large peg
to make larger rounded shapes. We call the accessory that performs this function a Super
Peg and have several special sets of Super Pegs. WigJig Super Pegs come in both round
and square shapes in a wide variety of sizes. Small Round Super Pegs are the most commonly used and come in the diameters of 3/16”, 1/4”, 5/16”, 3/8”, 7/16”, and 1/2”. Large
Round Super Pegs come in three different diameters: 5/8”, 3/4”, and 7/8”. Small Square
Super Pegs come in 1/4”, 5/16”, and 3/8”, while Large Square Super Pegs come in 1/2”,
5/8”, and 3/4” sizes.
Super Pegs are made out of both plastic and aluminum and are shaped like a mushroom.
The stem of the mushroom is the peg that fits into a hole on your jig, with the top of the
mushroom being the shape that you will wrap the wire around. All Super Pegs come with
one of two peg sizes -- pegs sized to fit on the Olympus, Olympus-Lite, Electra, or WildWire, or pegs sized to fit the WigJig Delphi or Cyclops.
We use Super Pegs wherever we need a rounded shape instead of an angular shape. A
good example of the need for a rounded shape is an ear wire finding. Making the rounded
part of the ear wire that goes through the ear is very difficult when just using regular metal
pegs, but by contrast, when a Super Peg is used, it is very easy to make professional quality ear wires in a variety of styles. In a following section, we will show how we use Small
Round Super Pegs to make ear wires.
One final accessory for your jig are extra metal pegs. Extra pegs may be required when
you are making a large and complex pattern, or as sometimes happens, when some of your
pegs get lost. Please be sure to purchase the pegs that are sized for your jig as they come in
two sizes. Pegs for the Delphi and Cyclops are the same size and will not work well on the
Olympus, Olympus-Lite. Electra or Wild-Wire. Pegs for the Olympus, Olympus-Lite and
Electra are the same size as the plastic pegs for the Wild Wire, but do not have the collar
that the plastic pegs for the Wild Wire need.
In the following pages, we will show wire patterns using both regular pegs and Super Pegs
to make findings. We will also show how the same pattern can be made with slight modifications on any of the jigs discussed in this book. In the remaining sections of this book, we
will show how each pattern can be modified to work on any of the jigs, within the limitations of the jig.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
How to Make Findings -- Jump Rings
Introduction:
The first question in making findings is why? It is a valid question. Given that your time is
valuable, why would you want to make findings that you can purchase at relatively inexpensive prices? There are several reasons for making rather than buying findings. The
first reason is that findings may not be available for the colored wire that you are using.
Head pins and jump rings are not readily available in colored wire. Second, the style of the
findings that you can purchase may not match your needs. Findings are made to satisfy
the largest percentage of customers but are absolutely not one size fits all. I frequently find
that I prefer findings that I make, because I make them in unique styles that both compliment the jewelry I am making and help distinguish my pieces as custom made. This makes
them easier to sell for higher prices. Finally, the last reason for making your own findings
is the one I find happens to me most often -- I need one and I’m currently out of what I
need.
In the next few pages I will try to show some simple techniques for making findings and
will end this section with a project that uses some of these skills. The findings that we will
cover are jump rings, head pins and ear wires. We have covered how to make eye pins and
figure 8 connectors in earlier pages. Clasps are a little more complicated to make and will
be left to one of the last sections of this book.
Tools and Materials:
In order to make a jump ring, you need about
2-3 inches of wire in 16, 18, or 20 gauge, a Master Coiler or step jaw pliers, and a pair of Flush
Cutters. You may also want to use loop closing
pliers or Bent Closing Pliers (my favorite) to
help close the jump ring once it is made.
Directions:
The steps in making a jump ring are only slightly
different from the steps in making a loop in the
wire. First, cut the end of the wire flat (blunt)
using the Flush Cutter, and begin making a loop
around one of the graduated steps in the Master
Coiler. See figure 129. Continue wrapping the
wire around the step in the Master Coiler to
make a coil as shown in Figure 130. Remove the
coil from the Master Coiler and cut the wire into
individual jump rings, making sure to leave the
blunt end of the cut wire on the finished jump
ring. See Figure 131 (next page).
Figure 129 Coil on
Master Coiler
Figure 130 Finished Coil
© 2003Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
How to Make Findings -- Jump Rings (Continued)
After making the first jump ring, you will then need to cut the sharp end of the wire off the
finished coil to begin making your next jump ring. Remember when cutting wire to keep
the flat side of the flush cutter toward the finished piece as we discussed previously. Figure
132 shows the finished jump rings ready to be used.
Figure 132 Jump Ring
After Cutting
Figure 131 Cutting the Jump
Ring from the coil.
Tips on Using Jump Rings:
The jump rings you just made should be round. One
tip for using jump rings is to squeeze a finished jump
ring in Loop Closing Pliers or Bent Closing Pliers to
make them slightly oval, with the opening of the ring
at the zero degree position when the axis of the oval is
90 degrees to 270 degrees. In less complex terms, this
means that the opening of the jump ring is on the side
and not on one of the ends of the oval. This makes
it natural for the jump ring to align itself so that the
pressure from the jewelry will fall on the wire and
not on the opening of the jump ring. Begin this step
by closing the jump rings with chain nose pliers. See
Figure 133 and 134 for an example of squeezing the
jump ring into an oval shape. Please note that it only
needs to be slightly oval, don’t squeeze too hard.
With gold, gold-filled, or sterling silver wire, jump
rings may be closed and hardened with a chasing
hammer and anvil. This will make them stronger
and may preclude the need to make them oval. With
colored wire it may not be a good idea to hammer the
wire, so making the jump rings slightly oval is probably the best solution with colored wire.
Figure 133 Squeeze
the Jump Ring to
make it slightly oval
Figure 134 The
Finished Jump Ring
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
How to Make Findings -- Head Pins
Introduction:
I don’t have a secret method for making a head pin identical to the purchased finding
head pin. To make the pin head of the head pin requires a special stamping machine that
is expensive and not worth considering. My approach is to form a decorative wire figure
at the end of a wire segment about 2-3 inches long.This decorative wire piece can be a
spiral made as discussed previously, a Figure 8 also made as discussed previously, or even a
simple loop. All of these techniques were discussed previously, the figures are just modified
to leave a 2 inch wire tail which becomes the head pin.
There are two basic reasons why you would want to make a head pin rather than purchase
one. The first reason is that you might want to use colored wire and there are no commercial head pins made with the colored wire. The second reason that you would want to make
a head pin is style. You might want to finish a piece of jewelry in a unique style that is not
available in commercially manufactured ear wires. The directions below show several style
alternatives that will work with colored wire, or with sterling silver, copper, or gold-filled
wire.
Directions:
There is nothing complicated about making a
head pin. Just make a spiral, Figure 8, or eye loop
in a piece of wire about 3 inches long. In essence,
we are making an eye-pin with a very small loop
and using it as a head pin. In the same way, you
can make a spiral, or a figure 8 and use them to
become the head of the head pin. As an alternative, you can bend the wire tail of the figure 8 so
that the wire tail is perpendicular to the plane of
the figure 8. Please see figure 135 for samples of
head pins made in colored wire. As you can see,
these head pins are functional in that they will
keep a bead from falling off the head pin and can
also add style, or design pizzazz to a piece of jewelry. With gold, gold-filled, silver or copper wire,
you can also make a head pin by hammering the
end of the wire until it flattens sufficiently to hold
a bead, then cutting off the end at an approrpiate length. Making a loop with this flattened wire
(Using the Master Coiler Pliers) produces a figure
that I call a “Scroll” and is a very attractive way
to make a head pin.
Figure 135 Head Pins
In Figure 135 we show from left to
right a head pin made with a spiral, a
head pin made with a loop, a head pin
made with a figure 8 and on the far
right a head pin made with a figure
8 perpendicular to the plane of the
wire tail. The head pin on the far
right does not show well because the
camera is looking at the side of the
figure 8.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
How to Make Findings: Ear Wires
Introduction:
Ear wires are a very common finding which are usually purchased. The best reason for
making ear wires is style. Anyone can use a purchased ear wire, and the result is pretty
vanilla. By making your own ear wires you can customize the design so that the finished
earrings are truly distinctive and unique. It adds pizzazz to your design and makes the
finished piece more marketable. The next reason is availability. You can always make ear
wires, but sometimes it is not convenient to purchase exactly what you need.
There is one caution in making ear wires. Do not make ear wires for pierced ears out of any
wire other than Gold, Gold Filled, Sterling Silver, or Stainless Steel. Colored wire is not
appropriate for ear wires. There are things in the dye in colored wire that do not belong
inside the human body. The coating on colored wire is designed to protect the wearer from
these chemicals and this protection works fine outside the body. It is not worth the risk that
this coating may be compromised inside pierced ears.
One of the ear wire patterns that I will show you (see Figure 122) is slightly larger than
normal ear wires. This is intentional because it helps to keep the earrings from getting lost.
Most of the earring patterns made using the techniques shown in this book, make earrings
that are lighter than commercial ear rings. Commercial earrings generally use cast metal
components and are therefore rather heavy by comparison. With the normal ear wire,
gravity is the only thing holding the earring on. When the earring is lighter there is less
gravity holding the ear wire on and the earrings can sometimes come off. This is the reason
that the ear wire patterns shown here are larger than commercial findings. Please consider
this when designing your own earrings.
The two ear wire patterns that are shown both use the wrapped loop technique that we
demonstrated earlier for making bead dangles. These patterns can be simplified by replacing the wrapped loop with a conventional eye loop.
Tools and Materials:
To make an ear wire, you will need round nose pliers, chain nose or bent-chain nose pliers,
a flush cutter, two four inch pieces of proper 20 gauge wire (preferably half-hard gold, goldfilled, Sterling Silver, or Stainless Steel), two small beads (2 to 4 mm), a jig with two metal
pegs and one 5/16” Super Peg and a bur cup. Nylon jaw pliers and a chasing hammer and
anvil are recommended but not absolutely required. Half-hard wire tends to work better
than soft wire, but is not mandatory. In the figures that follow, patterns are provided for
this ear wire on the WigJig Olympus, the WigJig Delphi and the WigJig Cyclops. These
patterns can be easily adapted to another jig.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
How to Make Findings: Ear Wires (Continued)
Directions:
Step One. Begin with a 3-4 inch piece of safe 20 gauge wire. As always, straighten the
wire using nylon jaw pliers or your fingers. With half-hard wire, you will not be able to
get it perfectly straight. Using a technique similar to making a bead dangle on a head pin
(Page 10), grasp the wire about 3/4” from the end using your chain nose pliers. We are
going to make a wrapped loop as one end of an ear wire. Bend the wire over at an angle of
80 degrees. While holding the wire with the long segment vertical and the short segment
roughly horizontal, grasp the wire on the short segment with your round nose pliers. Wrap
the short wire segment around the jaw of the round nose pliers and complete the wrapped
loop with about two wraps aroung the long wire segment.
At this point, you should have a piece of wire about 2 1/2 inches long with a wrapped loop
on one end. See Figure 136, below, for a sample of what the wire should look like before
performing the wrapped loop and Figure 137 for what it will look like after the wrapped
loop. It is important that you make the loop large enough to fit over one of the regular
metal pegs for the jig you are using; but not much larger. For the Wild Wire, or WigJig
Olympus, this means making a larger loop to fit over the larger peg for this jig. These
directions assume you are comfortable with making a wrapped loop. This is a skill that
was demonstrated earlier. If the wrapped loop doesn’t work for you make an eye loop
instead.
Grasp here with round
nose pliers
Figure 136 Wire Before the
Wrapped Loop
Figure 137 Wire After
the Wrapped Loop
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics
How to Make Findings: Ear Wires (Continued)
Step Two. Thread a 2, 3 or 4mm bead onto the long wire tail and
push it flush against the wrapped loop as shown in Figure 138.
Grasp the wire tail as shown in Figure 139, holding the bead tightly
against the wrapped loop with the tip of your round nose pliers
bend the wire over to a 90 degree angle as shown in Figure 140. In
this case, I used round nose pliers to grasp the wire because they
had a finer tip than my chain nose pliers. If you have chain nose or
bent chain nose pliers with a fine tip, I would use them rather than
the round nose pliers shown below. The angle made is very important because it is this angle that holds the bead permanently in
place. Be careful not to push against the glass bead as it can break.
Solid, round, metal beads are frequently used instead of glass. I
have used glass crystal because is distinguishes this ear wire as
hand made. Please note that there is a slight curl remaining in the
wire in Figure 140 this curl is up -- I pushed against the curl.
Figure 138
Add Bead
Push
Figure 139 Grasp Wire
Near Bead and Bend
Figure 140 Bend Wire
90 Degrees
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
How to Make Findings: Ear Wires (Continued)
Step Three. Place two metal pegs and one 5/16”
Super Peg on the Jig and position the wire on one
metal peg as shown in Figure 141. For the WigJig
Cyclops, the Super Peg is in the center hole of the
jig.
Super Peg
Further
Peg
For the WigJig Olympus, the WildWire Jig and for
the WigJig Delphi, I will provide patterns at the
end of this section. Please see Figures 148 and 149.
This peg pattern is ideal for right handed individuals who will hold the wire in their dominant hand.
If you are left handed make your pegs in a mirror
image.
Closer
Peg
Figure 141 Place
Wire on Jig
Step Four. Bend the wire around the pegs. Bending the wire
around the pegs is a two step process. As shown in Figure
142, a right hander should hold the wire tightly against the
Super Peg with their left thumb, while bending the wire
around the Super Peg using their right hand. In step 1, bend
the wire beyond the bottom peg, so that when you let go, the
wire relaxes back to just barely touch the peg. Now in step 2,
push the wire against the bottom peg to bend it back approximately 30 degrees as shown. Do not remove the wire from
the jig when done, we use the jig to help us measure where to
cut the wire tail.
Step Five. Cut the wire to length. Figure 143 on the following page shows how we align the flush cutter with a row
on the jig to determine where to cut the end of the ear wire.
Remember to keep the flat side of the flush cutter toward the
finished piece as shown and cut both ear wires at the same
place on the jig. Consistency is important in making professional quality jewelry.
Step 1
Hold
Step 2
Figure 142
Wrap Wire
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
How to Make Findings: Ear Wires (Continued)
Step Six. Remove the ear wire from the jig and
gently finish the piece with either nylon jaw
pliers and/or your fingers to flatten the piece
into the final shape you desire. At this point,
use the Bur Cup to round the cut end of the ear
wire. It should be completely smooth to the
touch when finished. Figure 144 shows what
the finished ear wire should look like.
Figure 143 Use the holes
in the jig to help
measure your cut
Step Seven. It is recommend at this point that
you set the rounded part of this ear wire by
hardening it with a chasing hammer and anvil.
Be absolutely certain that do not hammer the
glass bead. . Try to hold the piece with the
bead off the anvil, with only the top of the ear
wire resting flat on the anvil. The arrows in
Figure 145 show approximately where you
should hammer. Figure 146 shows how to hold
while hammering. Use many small taps rather
than one or two larger pounds with the chasing
hammer. The goal is to slightly deform (flatten) the wire. You should be able to see this
slight deformation. In effect you are creating
an “I” beam here.
Figure 146
How to
hold while
hammering
Figure 144
Remove
from Jig
Figure 145 Where
to hammer
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics
How to Make Findings: Ear Wires (Continued)
Figure 147 shows how small the deformation appears in order to lock
the rounded shape into the ear wire. Notice that the top portion is
just barely, but noticeably flattened. You will be able to feel that this
round shape is significantly stiffer after successfully hardening it.
This is a finished, custom ear wire.
Figure 147
Hardened
Loop
Figure 148 and 149 show the peg pattern used to make this ear wire on the
WigJig Delphi and the WigJig Olympus
or Wild Wire Jig respectively.
Figure 148 Delphi Pattern
The following pages will describe
the steps to make a locking back
ear wire that will not come off accidentally. The materials and tools
requied will be the same as for the
“French” style ear wire that we just
completed with one exception. You
will need a larger Super Peg than the
5/16” one that we used above. A 3/8”
Super Peg is recommended for this
ear wire design.
Figure 149 Olympus Pattern
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
How to Make Findings: Ear Wires (Continued)
Tools and Materials:
To make the locking back ear wire, you will need round nose pliers, chain nose or bentchain nose pliers, a flush cutter, two four inch pieces of safe 20 gauge wire (gold, gold-filled,
Sterling Silver, or Stainless Steel), two small beads (2 to 4 mm), a jig with two metal pegs
and one 3/8” Super Peg and a bur cup. Nylon jaw pliers and a chasing hammer and anvil
are recommended but not absolutely required. Half-hard wire tends to work better than
soft wire. In the figures below, I provide patterns for making this ear wire on the WigJig
Olympus, the WigJig Delphi and the WigJig Cyclops. My personal preference for this
project is the WigJig Delphi.
Directions:
Step One. Begin by straightening two 4 inch pieces of ear-safe wire. With half-hard wire
you will not be able to get it perfectly straight. Try to incorporate the natural curl of the
wire into the finished piece by bending loops with the natural curl and not against it. I do
this by determining where my loops will be and position the wire as you work it so that the
finished piece will be with the natural curl of the wire. For this project, hold the wire horizontally, with the natural curl curving up. Then grasp the wire with the chain nose pliers
about 1 1/2 inches from one end of the wire. Push the short 1 1/2 inch segment down to
form an angle of about 80 degrees with the longer wire tail. Using the procedures described
above, form a wrapped loop in the end of the wire. Complete the wrapped loop with two
turns of wire around the wire tail. This will leave a short wire segment of about 3/4 inch
long. Do not cut this wire tail. See Figure 150 for a picture of the wire at this point. In this
figure, you should notice that the wire tail points in the same direction as the natural curl
in the wire. Please note that if you are going to use the WigJig Olympus, Olympus-Lite or
Wild Wire Jig for this project, you will need to make the loop large enough to fit over the
larger metal pegs for these jigs. At this point you can add a 2mm to 4mm bead to the wire.
Wire Tail
Figure 150 3/4” Wire Tail
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
How to Make Findings: Ear Wires (Continued)
Step Two. For the WigJig Delphi, the two bottom
metal pegs need to be spaced two holes apart in the
same horizontal row of holes. The large 3/8 inch
Super Peg should be spaced above the empty hole
between the two metal pegs and placed in the third
hole up from the empty hole in the same column of
holes. Figure 151 shows the peg placement on the
WigJig Delphi for making this ear wire. The wire
in this Figure is positioned for a right-handed individual to complete the piece. If you are left-handed,
the wire should be on the opposite metal peg (Peg 3),
with the wire tail pointing to the left (mirror image)
instead of to the right as shown in this figure. At this
point, a right hander would hold the wire on Peg 1
with their left thumb and grasp the wire near the
top, above the Super Peg and bend it around the
Super Peg (Peg 2). This is a two step bend. First
bend around Peg 2 and inside Peg 3. Bend the wire
far enough so that when you stop applying force to
the wire, it relaxes back to just barely touch Peg 3.
Then in the second step, bend the wire against Peg
3 to create an angle of about 30 degrees. See Figure
152.
Peg 1
Peg 3
Figure 151 Peg Pattern
Step Three. After you have completed both bending steps, the wire should appear as shown in Figure 152. At this point remove the wire from the jig
and cut the end off approximately 3/16 inch from
the bend at Peg 3. Using a Cup Bur, round both
ends of the wire so that they are completely smooth
to the touch.
Peg 2
Peg 1
Peg 2
Peg 3
Figure 152 Wire on Jig
Step Four. Now grasp the short, horizontal wire
segment connecting to the wrapped loop with your
round nose pliers, and make a shephard’s hook
-- exactly 1/2 of a loop. See Figure 153 (next page)
for an example of a completed locking back ear
wire, and note the shephard’s hook.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
How to Make Findings: Ear Wires (Continued)
Shephard’s
Hook
Harden
Figure 153 Shephard’s Hook
Figure 154 Harden
Step Six. The final step in making these ear wires is optional though recommended -- to
harden the rounded portion of the ear wire (See Figure 154) by hammering the ear wire on
an anvil as shown in Figure 155. Hammer the wire with the ear wire open or un-locked.
This will add life to the spring in the wire, making it lock more securely.
There are several ways to customize this ear wire design.
The first and most obvious is that you could add a crystal
bead before you put the wire on the jig as shown in Figure 151. Use a 4mm crystal bead in the same color as the
bead to be used in the earring dangle. The second design
modification is that you could use a different size Super
Peg (Peg 2) and move it closer or further by one hole
from peg 1 and 3. This would make the ear wire slightly
more delicate or bolder according to whether you went
smaller or larger.
Patterns for making this ear wire on the WigJig
Olympus/Olympus Lite or Wild Wire, and on the WigJig
Cyclops are provided in the following page.
Figure 155 How
to Hammer
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJIg @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
How to Make Findings: Ear Wires (Continued)
Figure 156 shows the peg pattern for making
the lock back ear wire on the WigJig Olympus,
Olympus-Lite, or Wild Wire Jig. For this pattern we use two regular, metal pegs for the
Olympus along with one 3/8” Super Peg. The
instructions for making these ear wires on the
Olympus are identical to those for the Delphi,
provided above. The finished ear wire will be
slightly larger than the ear wire made on the
WigJig Delphi. The metal pegs for the Olympus
are larger than the pegs for the Delphi so the
beginning wrapped loop, shown in Figure 150
above, must be significantly larger to allow it to
fit over the larger pegs.
Figure 156 Lock Back
Ear Wire Pattern on
WigJig Olympus
The pattern for the lock back ear wires on the WigJig
Cyclops is shown in Figure 157. Because the holes in the
WigJig Cyclops are spaced so closely together near the center of the jig, it allows more design options. The Super Peg
can be easily moved up or down one or two holes to change
the design of this ear wire to accommodate your personal
tastes. This simple pattern helps to demonstrate the flexibility of the WigJig Cyclops.
In the following pages we will use the skills we have learned
to make several simple earrings. Once these projects are
completed we will move on to some more advanced designs.
Figure 157 Lock
Back Ear Wire On
WigJig Cyclops
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Wire Design Basics Book 2
Beginner’s Project 5: Earrings with Custom Made Ear Wires
Introduction:
This is a simple project using wire, chain, a commercial head-pin, and one
or more beads. It involves making a custom made ear wire, a bead dangle,
a jump ring and connecting the bead dangle to the chain, jump ring, and
ear wire to complete the earring. This design can be easily modified to connect two beads to a slightly longer section of chain as another decorative
alternative. With the longer chain, you can choose whether you connect the
jump ring to the middle of the chain, or slightly off-center to have the two
beads hanging at a different length. You will find that this simple pattern,
whether made with a locking back ear-wire, or an open loop ear-wire (sometimes called a “French” ear-wire) is very attractive and marketable.
Tools and Materials:
To make this earring, you need round nose pliers, chain nose or bent chain
nose pliers, a flush cutter and a jig with a Super Peg to make the ear wire.
You will also need a head-pin, some jewelry chain about 2 inches long and 2 Figure 158
to 4 beads. (Two gold filled 3mm beads and two faceted, crystal tear-drop
Project 5
beads about 10 mm long were used in Figure 158.) The small beads in the
ear wire can be as large as 4mm and can be crystal beads to match the larger beads in the dangle. In addition, you will need about 10 to 12 inches of 20
gauge precious metal wire, preferably half-hard. Please remember that ear
wires must be made in precious metal wire to protect the wearer from possibly harmful chemicals.
A hammer and anvil, nylon jaw pliers, and loop closing pliers are recommended but not absolutely required.
Directions:
Begin by making two ear wires using the steps described in the prior pages. Using the leftover wire, make two jump rings about medium size (roughly 5mm). Cut the jewelry chain
into two pieces about 1/4 to 1/2 inch long each (exactly the same size for both). Thread the
large bead or beads on the head-pin and begin making a wrapped bead dangle as described
in an early section of this book. Before beginning the wrap to close the bead dangle remove
the head-pin and bead from the round nose pliers and thread the last loop of the chain onto
the loop just made in the bead dangle.
Now grasp the loop in the bead dangle with chain nose or bent chain nose pliers and hold
it firmly while you complete the wrap to finish the bead dangle. This step is very similar to
making a wrapped bead link chain as discussed previously. At this point we should have
two completed ear wires, two jump rings, and two bead dangles attached to chain segments.
The final step is to open the jump ring and connect the each ear wire to a segment of chain
& bead dangle. After closing the jump ring, the finished earring should appear like the one
shown in Figure 158.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Beginner’s Project 6: Earrings with Custom Made Head Pin
Introduction:
The next project we will undertake is to make another simple earring, using
a head-pin that you make. After mastering this project we will graduate to
some more advanced projects using the skills we have learned to this point.
Tools and Materials:
This project requires the same set of tools we used in the prior project. Since
we make our own head-pin for this project the materials are different. To
make this project you need about 10 inches of half-hard precious metal wire
and about 8 inches of soft wire. Since the soft wire is to make the head-pin,
you can use any type of wire that satisfies your artistic desires. Colored
Artistic Wire is perfectably acceptable. You will also need about eight beads
in various sizes. I used two 4mm crystal bicone beads, four 6mm crystal
bicone beads and two round metal 3mm beads.
Directions:
Step One. Make two ear wires out of half-hard precious
metal wire and make two jump rings. Use the techniques
described in the preceeding sections.
Step Two. Using the soft wire, cut and straighten two 4
inch segments. In one end of each segment make a small
spiral. Use the size of your beads to determine the size
of the spiral. If you use 6mm beads, make a spiral 6mm
in diameter. Bend the wire tail from the spiral to make a
head pin.
Step Three. Thread your combination of beads onto this
head-pin and make a wrapped bead dangle.
Step Four. The final step is to open the jump ring and
connect the ear wire to the bead dangle. A figure 8 connector can be substituted for the jump ring should you desire.
The finished piece should appear similar to Figure 159.
Figure 159A
Project 6
Ear Wire
Jump Ring
Wrapped Bead
Loop
Head Pin
Figure
159B
Project 6
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Beginner’s Project 7: Chain Mail Earrings
Introduction:
At this point you have the skills to make a wide variety of earrings. The
pair that we will make in this project are called Chain Mail earrings
because they are linked segments of wire, roughly similar to chain mail.
These earrings are made using simple skills, but do require patience.
They are not difficult, but time consuming to make because of all the
components that must be made and connected in the proper orientation.
I used 10 different figure 8 connectors to make one of these earrings. If
you don’t have the patience to spend 30 minutes making one earring,
skip this project. If your style is delicate, you should also skip this project. A finished earring is approximately 3 1/2 inches from top to bottom.
Tools and Materials:
In addition to the normal set of tools described in the above projects, I
used a Master Coiler or step jaw pliers to make the beginning loop and
ending loop for each segment and for the beginning loop of the figure
8 connectors. This is optional. Round nose pliers would work instead,
but by using the step jaw pliers I increased my consistency. Each loop is
exactly the same size. The materials I used were 10 inches of half-hard
precious metal wire for the ear wire I made, plus about 20 inches of wire
for the chain mail. This wire can be either half-hard or soft, though I
personally prefer half-hard. I also used four head pins and four beads
(6mm bicone crystal beads are shown in the picture).
Directions:
Step One. Make the components.
There are eight different types of
wire components that go into this
earring. As I said above there are 10
Figure 8 connectors. There are two
bead dangles per earring. There are
two ear wires, and four horizontal
metal components to the chain mail.
There is also one jump ring in each
earring. Figure 161 shows the peg
placement on the WigJig Cyclops
that I used to make the ear wire and
4 horizontal metal components of the
chain mail. I used the Master Coiler
Pliers or Fine Step Jaw Pliers on the
smallest size step to make the beginning and ending loops for the top
horizontal segment, the 4 hole
(Continued next page)
Figure 160
Project 7
Ear Wire
Top horizontal segment
2 hole
segment
4 hole
segment
3 hole
segment
Figure 161 Peg Pattern
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Wire Design Basics Book 2
Beginner’s Project 7: Chain Mail Earrings (Continued)
segment, the 3 hole segment, the 2 hole segment and the jump ring. The starting loop was
made on the step jaw pliers. That loop was placed over one of the pegs on the jig and
the wire was wrapped to the ending loop. At that point, bend the wire about 60 degrees
around the ending peg, and removed the wire from the jig. Complete the final loop for the
segment using the step jaw pliers.
Here is how to begin. First, make a custom ear wire using the pattern shown at the top of
Figure 161. This pattern is used to minimize the length of the earrings, since the chain mail
earrings are somewhat long. This ear wire does not have any beads which reduces the size
of the ear wire. Remove the ear wire from the jig but do not wrap the loop closed. It is important to wait before closing the wrapped loop in the ear wire because this loop is wrapped
closed after inserting the middle loop in the top horizontal segment into the loop in the ear
wire. This is done to minimize the length of the earring since it eliminates the need for a
connector between the ear wire and the top horizontal segment. Please see Figure 160 so
that you can visualize how the ear wire and the top horizontal segment are directly attached
to one another. Please note that the two bead dangles are added as the very last step.
Now make the four wire segments on the jig as shown in Figure 161 -- the top horizontal
segment, the four hole segment, the three hole segment and the two hole segment. As described in the previous page, you can make the starting loop and ending loop on the step
jaw pliers to make them exactly the same size. This makes the finished product more consistent. If you don’t have step jaw pliers, use round nose pliers instead.
There is a one hole horizontal segment to the chain mail. It is a jump ring that is made using the step jaw pliers’ smallest step. Make this jump ring and 10 figure 8 connectors. Try
to make all of the loops in the figure 8 connectors exactly the same size as the loop in the
jump ring. Make 10 Figure 8 connectors this size.
Step Two. Now to assemble the chain mail. First, attach the middle loop in the top horizontal segment onto the loop in the ear wire. Now grasp the loop in the ear wire with chain
nose or bent chain nose pliers and wrap the loop closed. Cut off any excess wire and tuck
in the residual wire tail. (If you are using commercial ear wires, attach the ear wire to the
middle loop of the top horizontal connector.) At this point, you have your ear wire with the
top horizontal segment hanging from it.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Beginner’s Project 7: Chain Mail Earrings (Continued)
Step Three. Open one side of two figure 8 connectors and hang them from each outside
loop in the top horizontal connector. Close the two figure 8 connectors. Now open the bottom of these two figure 8 connectors and hang the 4 hole horizontal segment from them.
Attach one figure 8 connector to the top of each of the outside loops in the 4 hole segment.
Be sure to hang the 4 hole segment so that the horizontal piece is at the top and the loops
hang down. See Figure 160 for the proper orientation. Don’t be surprised if this takes a
few tries. When you have it hanging correctly, close both figure 8 connectors. Have patience! Once you master this step, everything else is easy.
Step Four. Now perform the same process for the 3 hole horizontal segment. Add one
figure 8 connectors to the bottom of each of the outside loops of the 4 hole segment. Open
the bottom loop of the two figure 8 connectors and hang the 3 hole segment in the proper
orientation. Close the two figure 8 connectors.
Step Five. Now do the same thing for the 2 hole segment.
Step Six. We are now ready to hang the jump ring, or the one hole segment of the chain
mail. Hang one figure 8 connector from the bottom of each loop of the two hole connector.
At this point it is probably easier to open the jump ring and hang it from each of the two
figure 8 connectors rather than opening both figure 8 connectors. Close the jump ring. At
this point the chain mail is completed and should hang in a smooth “V” shape from the ear
wire. Check for the proper orientation of all segments. Compare against Figure 160.
Step Seven. The final step is to hang a bead dangle from the jump ring and from the middle loop in the top horizontal segment. Use a commercial head pin to make both bead dangles. The beads shown are 6mm bicone, faceted crystal beads. The beads must be rather
small since there is not a lot of room between the top horizontal segment and the four hole
segment. If you choose to use a larger bead dangle, you might have to eliminate the dangle
hanging from the top horizontal segment.
Alternatives. This design can be readily adapted to any square hole pattern jig by merely
placing the pegs in a row, with either four, three or two pegs in a row. The top horizontal
segment is made with two pegs in one row spaced symmetrically around the third peg, one
row up.
There is one alternative design that you may wish to consider. You can modify this design
to make it shorter by eliminating the four hole row from the earrings and modifying the top
horizontal segment to be smaller to match the length of the three hole segment. This is easy
to do on the WigJig Cyclops, but may be more difficult on a square hole pattern jig.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Beginner’s Project 7: Chain Mail Earrings (Continued)
If you had the patience to follow all these steps and make two chain mail earrings, you are
no longer a beginner. Consider yourself an Intermediate Wire Worker and prepare an appropriate certificate to hang on your wall.
Now that you are an Intermediate Wire Worker, we will try some slightly more difficult earring designs. There are no new skills to learn, we just use the skills you already know in a
different way.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Intermediate Project 8: Wrapped Triangle Earrings.
Introduction:
This project uses a new technique to finish a wire component made on the jig. These earrings are finished by
wrapping the wire around itself to form a tight, strong
finished piece that will not come apart. This technique
has many applications and will be used in the next several earring projects.
Figure 162
Front
This is a project for someone with intermediate skills. It
is more difficult than the prior projects in this book and
for this reason it is important to make several practice
pieces before trying to make the finished piece. Begin
with inexpensive practice wire before graduating to the
final wire.
This project is easier to make in half-hard wire than it is
in soft wire. Since most practice wire is dead soft,
Figure 162
Side
this means that it will be more difficult to make the practice pieces than the final piece in half-hard gold-filled or
sterling silver wire. Do not become frustrated if the first
few pieces you make aren’t the best.
Tools and Materials:
Figure 163 Wrapped Loop
The finished earrings, including the custom made ear wires take about 20 inches of halfhard gold-filled or sterling silver wire, four commercial head pins, four 6mm crystal
bicone beads and four 2.5mm round metal beads. The WigJig Cyclops was used to make
the pattern, although this pattern could be adapted to any of the jigs. See Figure 172 for
how to adapt this design to a jig with a square hole pattern.
Directions:
Step One. Begin this project by cutting and straightening a piece of wire 6 inches long.
Make a small wrapped loop in the end of the wire as shown in Figure 163. Use only slightly
more than one wrap to make this loop. The loop must fit over a peg for the jig you are using.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Intermediate Project 8: Wrapped Triangle Earrings
(Continued)
Step Two. Position the pegs on the
jig as shown in Figure 164. Peg 2
is in the center hole in the Cyclops.
Peg 1 is in the second row out from
the center. Pegs 3 and 4 are in
the 6th row from the center, with
each spaced 30 degrees off the axis
formed by peg 1 and 2.
3
1
2
4
Step Three. Place the loop you just
made in the wire on peg one, again
as shown in Figure 164.
Figure 164 Place loop on Peg 1
3
2
1
4
Step Four. Grasp the wire with bent chain
nose pliers between pegs 1 and 2 about 1/8
inch away from peg 2, as shown in Figure
165. Bend the wire about 60 degrees down
as shown by the arrow in Figure 165. When
completed the wire should appear as shown
in Figure 166.
Bend
Figure 165 Grasp Wire
3
1
2
4
Figure 166 Wire After Bend
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Wire Design Basics Book 2
Intermediate Project 8: Wrapped Triangle Earrings
(Continued).
Step Five. Remove the wire from the jig and grasp the wire at the bend with round nose
pliers. See Figure 167. Bend the wire back about 90 degrees from its current position. The
purpose for this step is to manually create a bend in the wire around peg 2, as shown in Figure 168. This is important so that the finished piece will be symmetrical. After completing
the bend, place the wire on the jig as shown in Figure 168.
Step Six. We are now ready to wrap the wire around the pegs to form the triangle shape.
From the position shown in Figure 168, bend the wire up and around peg 3, forming a loop
around this peg. Continue to bend until the wire relaxes against the left side of peg 4. You
will probably need to bend it slightly beyond peg 4, so that the wire just touches the left side
of peg 4 when relaxed.
Step Seven. Remove the wire from the jig and place the loop that we just made on peg 3,
over peg 4, thereby flipping the piece over. This step is necessary to make the finished piece
as symmetrical as possible. While practicing you can skip this step to see the difference it
makes in the final piece.
3
1
2
Push
4
Figure 167 Grasp
With Round Nose
Pliers
Figure 168 Place Wire on Jig
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Wire Design Basics Book 2
Intermediate Project 8: Wrapped Triangle Earrings
(Continued).
1
Step Eight. After flipping the wire over,
continue to wrap the wire around peg
three, making another loop and finish by
bending the wire around peg two. See
Figure 169 for a sample of what the wire
should look like before you remove it from
the jig. Please note that the initial bend
we made in the wire should now make
sense, since we want the wire symmetrically around peg two.
Step Nine. Remove the wire from the jig
and grasp it with bent chain nose pliers as
shown in Figure 170. Hold the wire firmly
so that it will not slip. Try to grasp the
wire so that the triangle is as symetrical as
possible. Now comes the hard part. With
the loose wire tail on top of the rest of
the piece, push down on the wire tail and
wrap it around the wire segment that went
between pegs 1 and 2. Wrap tightly and
do not let the shape of the triangle change
by letting the wire slip in the chain nose
pliers.
2
3
4
Figure 169 Wire on Jig
This is the step where half-hard wire makes it
much easier. Soft wire does not want to wrap
tightly, so you have to hold it tightly so that
the wraps are tight against the wire segment
from pegs 1 to 2. With half-hard wire this
step will be easier.
Complete the wrap and cut any residual wire.
Tuck in the small wire tail after the cut with
chain nose pliers. See Figure 171 for a closeup of what the wrap should look like when
completed.
Initial Loop
Wrap
Figure 170 Remove from
Jig
Figure 171 Finished Wrap
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Wire Design Basics Book 2
Intermediate Project 8: Wrapped Triangle Earrings
(Continued).
Step 10. To finish these earrings, I made a custom ear wire, and connected it to the triangle
component I just made before wrapping the loop of the ear wire closed. The final step is to
attach two bead dangles, one to each of the bottom corner loops of the triangle. Here I used
a 6mm bicone, faceted crystal bead and a 2.5 mm round metal bead on a head pin for each
bead dangle. The finished earrings are shown in Figure 162. As an alternative you could
connect the ear wire to the earring body with a jump ring or figure 8 connector.
Figure 172 shows how to adapt this design to a WigJig
Delphi. The same adaptation will work on the WigJig
Olympus or Wild Wire by counting the holes and positioning the pegs.
Let us now review some tips and techniques on how to
make wire components in the most consistent manner.
First, remember above all to keep the wire straight while
working with it. With soft wire this is more difficult and
much more important. If you have to, stop, remove the
wire from the jig and straighten it with nylon jaw pliers
before continuing. Also remember that it is easier to keep
the wire straight if you hold the wire in one hand and
move the jig with the other.
Next let’s talk about using our tools properly to be conFigure 172 Delphi Pattern sistent. The size of a loop is determined by how far down
the jaws of your round nose pliers you hold the wire. Be
sure to hold the wire at the same place in your pliers for both earrings. Also adapt the size
of your loops to the size requirements for your piece. The initial loop shown in Figure 163
should be small. It should just fit over the peg in the jig that you are using. If it doesn’t fit
over the peg it is too small. If it fits loosely, it is too big. By contrast, the loops you make
for the bead dangles should be large. We want the beads to move easily, so make larger
loops here. Where you grasp the wire on your chain nose pliers determines the length
of the unbent segment. This makes a short segment between the loop in the bead dangle
and the beads. For the earrings shown here, I grasped the wire near the handle of the
bent chain nose pliers and this made a longer segment between the beads and the loop. By
grasping the wire at the same place on the pliers every time, I made this segment the same
length for all four bead dangles.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Intermediate Project 8: Wrapped Triangle Earrings
(Continued).
Now let’s discuss some options for modifying the
design of these earrings. In Figure 173, I took the
same earrings and added a 4mm crystal bicone
bead in the middle of the triangle, hanging from
the loop in the wire made by peg 2. This adds interest and complexity to this earring design. I like
the result, but I must note that doing this requires
patience. Make the loop to hold this 4mm bead
quite a bit larger than the loops for the other four
bead dangles.
Figure 173 Side
Longer
Dangle
Figure 173 Front
With the WigJig Cyclops you have many options to modify this design by moving a peg
or two. Once you are comfortable with this technique, I recommend moving peg 1 closer
to peg 2 by one hole. This makes the wire segment between 1 and 2 shorter and improves
the design of the earrings, but is more difficult to perform. You can also move pegs 3 and
4 each one peg in any direction and create an entirely new design. Finally, you can add
another peg between pegs 3 and 4 to form another loop. Add this peg on the extension of
the segment between pegs 1 and 2, the centerline of the triangle. Making these kind of
modifications is easily possible on a round jig and rather diffficult on a square hole pattern
jig.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Intermediate Project 9: Wrapped Diamond Earrings
Introduction:
Figure 173 Side
Now that we have completed Project 8 we are
ready for a slightly more complex pair of earrings as we build on the skills we have learned.
These earrings employ the exact same skills we
used in Project 8 with a slightly more complex
pattern. Figure 173 shows the front and side
views for Project 9, the Wrapped Diamond
Earring. If you were successful in completing
Project 8, you will find that Project 9 is easy.
If you had difficulties with Project 8, you are
not ready for Project 9. The Wrapped Triangle design is easier to make and one should
practice this design until you are relatively
proficient before moving on to this slightly
more difficult design.
Figure
173 Front
Tools and Materials:
The finished earrings, including the custom made ear wires take about 20 inches of halfhard gold-filled or sterling silver wire, six commercial head pins, six 6mm crystal bicone
beads and two 4mm crystal beads. I used the WigJig Cyclops to make the pattern,
although this pattern could be adapted to any of the jigs. See Figure 176 for how to adapt
this design to a jig with a square hole pattern. There were no new tools used to make these
earrings.
Directions:
Step One. Arrange five pegs as shown in Figure 174.
Cut and straighten two pieces of wire 5 1/2 inches
long. Using the same techniques as for the Wrapped
Triangle Earrings, make a wrapped loop in this wire.
The completed wrapped loop should have only 1 1/4
turns around the wire segment between pegs 1 and 2.
Make the loop small so that it just fits over the peg for
the jig you are using.
Step Two. Using the steps shown in Figures 165
through 168, make the inital bend around peg 2 by
hand. The wire should look like Figure 174 when you
are ready to begin wrapping the piece.
1
2
3
5
4
Figure 174 Pattern for
Step Three. Now place the beginning loop over peg 1
Right Handers
and proceed to bend the wire up and around peg 3.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
(continued next page)
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Intermediate Project 9: Wrapped Diamond Earrings
(Continued)
1
2
3
5
4
Figure 175 Earring Body
on Jig
Remember to hold the wire straight in your dominant
hand and move the jig with your other hand. Continue
to bend the wire until it just relaxes against peg 4. Now
bend the wire around peg 4, until the wire tail just
relaxes against peg 5. At this point, remove the wire
from the jig and turn it over. The loop formed on Peg 3
should now rest on Peg 5. Complete the piece by wrapping the wire around peg 3 and back to peg 2. Wrap
the wire around peg 2 and stop. At this point the wire
should look like Figure 175.
Step Four. After removing the wire from the jig, grasp
each of the loops with nylon jaw pliers and squeeze to
set the design in the wire.
Step Five. Now with your bent chain nose pliers, grab
the wire where it wrapped around peg 2 and hold it
firmly. (See Figure 170 for how to hold this wire.) Proceed to wrap the wire around the wire segment that
formerly went between pegs 1 and 2. Continue to wrap
until you completely wrap the wire segment between pegs
1 and 2.
Step Six. At this point you are ready to add your bead
dangles to the loops made around pegs 3, 4, and 5. Use
larger loops for the wrapped loop that holds your bead
dangle to the loop in the earring body we just made.
Once this is done, connect your completed earring body to
your ear wire either by a jump ring, a figure 8 connector,
or via opening the ear wire and connecting it directly. I
prefer directly connecting the earring body to the ear wire
since it preserves the orientation I want for the finished
piece and limits the vertical extend of this earring, which
I prefer from a style perspective. Figure 177 shows how
the finished earring should look.
Figure 176 Pattern for
WigJig Delphi
Figure 176 shows how to adapt this design to a WigJig Delphi. The same pattern can be
adapted for the WigJig Olympus, Olympus-Lite or Wild Wire jig by counting the holes
from Figure 176.
© 2002 WigJIg @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Intermediate Project 9: Wrapped Diamond Earrings
(Continued)
Ear Wire
Earring
Body
Figure 177 Side
Wraps
Figure 178
Rolex Style
There are several options for modifying this
design. In Figure 177, I show a modification
where a 4mm crystal bead dangle is added,
hanging from the loop made by Peg 2. As with
the Wrapped Triangle Earrings, this is more
difficult to accomplish than an ordinary bead
dangle, but with patience and using a very
large wrapped loop to hang the bead, it can be
done. I think it adds to the finished piece and
recommend trying it.
Figure 177 Front
Figure 178 and 179 show two other alternatives
for finishing this earring. This is a technique
that I call Rolex Style because of the combination of gold and silver that you see, similar to
the watch band on a Rolex. This is an advanced
technique. When you are very comfortable
with making Wrapped Triangle and Wrapped
Diamond Earrings, you can attempt this technique. The wraps are accomplished with very
fine wire, either 24 or 26 gauge.
Figure 179
Rolex Style
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Intermediate Project 10: Sidewinder Earrings with Spiral
Introduction:
Project 10 is a pair of earrings that I call Sidewinder with Spiral, because of
the similarity of the wire design to the rattlesnake in the Southwest. This pair
of earrings is rather easy to make by comparison with the prior two projects.
Tools and Materials:
This design uses the same tools as our prior projects. It requires about 20
inches of 22 gauge soft wire and if you make your own ear wires eight additional inches of 20 gauge half hard wire. Two 6mm crystal bicone beads and
two round 2.5mm metal beads were used for the ear wires. This design was
made on the WigJig Cyclops, but patterns for the WigJig Delphi or other jig
with a square hole pattern are provided at the end.
Directions:
3
1
5
2
4
7
6
Figure 181 Earring
Body on Jig
Figure
180
Begin by cutting and straightening two 8 inch pieces of 22
gauge soft wire. Make a wrapped loop in the end of the wire,
large enough to fit over the peg on the jig you are using. Place
this loop over peg one, as shown in Figure 181, and wrap the
wire around the pegs in turn. When you are done, the wire
should appear as shown in Figure 181. At this point, remove
the wire from the jig. Using the wire tail, make a spiral with
the excess wire. Finish the spiral under the center of this Sidewinder wire component. Using your hand, finish this piece by
moving the loops together to tighten-up the finished piece. At
this point you can harden the finished Sidewinder by tapping it
repeatedly on an anvil with a chasing hammer.
Make an ear wire and close the loop on the ear wire. Connect
the ear wire to the Sidewinder earring body with a wrapped
bead link. Use the 6mm crystal bead in the wrapped bead link.
When completed the finished earring should appear as shown
in Figure 180.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Intermediate Project 10: Sidewinder Earrings with Spiral
(Continued)
Figure 182 shows how to adapt this design for a square
peg pattern jig, the WigJig Delphi. By counting the
pegs the same pattern can be adapted to the WigJig
Olympus, Olympus-Lite or Wild Wire jigs.
This earring can be modified in many ways. One way I
suggest is to consider using 4mm crystal beads instead
of the 6 mm crystal beads that I used. This design also
works well with most any small bead.
On the WigJig Cyclops this design was made using a
15 degree pattern. The design could be modified to any
pattern in 7.5 degree increments. Either a 22.5 degree
or a 30 degree pattern would also work well. For this
earring, I chose delicate, so I went with a smaller angle.
Figure 182 Delphi Pattern
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Intermediate Project 11 Candelabra Earrings
Introduction:
These are a very popular pair of earrings.
They use the skills we have practiced with
Projects 8 and 9 and make a pair of earrings
that get noticed. They are not easy to make,
but if you completed Projects 8 and 9, you
should be able to complete these. It is just a
little more of the same skills. This is our last
earring project.
Tools and Materials:
This project uses one tool that we have not
used before. It is called a Spacer Press and
consists of a simple plastic tube with a diamFigure 183
eter of about 3/16 inch. The Spacer Press is Figure 183 Front
used because these pegs are so close together
Side
that you can not use your fingers to push the
wire down as you wrap it around a peg. As an alternative to a Spacer Press you can use a
1/8 inch dowel.
This project uses about 26 inches of 20 gauge wire, ten 6mm crystal beads, ten head pins,
ten 2mm round metal beads and two 2.5 mm round metal beads if you make the ear wires.
This project was made on the WigJig Cyclops. Figure
186 shows how to adapt this design for the WigJig
1
Delphi.
Directions:
Step One. Cut and straighten a 6 1/2 inch piece of 20
gauge wire. Half-hard wire will work the best. Begin
by making a wrapped loop in one end of this wire.
Make the loop large enough to fit over the peg for
the jig you use. Cut off the wire tail and tuck in the
residual wire.
Step Two. Just as we did for the Wrapped Triangle
and for the Wrapped Diamond, we need to make the
curve in the wire around peg 2 by hand. This is done
as shown previously in Figures 165 through 168.
2
10
11
8 6
9
3
4
7
5
Figure 184 Earring Body
on Jig
© 2002 WigJIg @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Intermediate Project 11: Candelabra Earrings (Continued)
Step Three. When this loop around peg 2 is done, place the initial loop over peg 1 and
position the wire so that the wire tail passes on the left side of peg 3 as shown in Figure 184.
Wrap the wire around the pegs in the order shown. See also Figure 185 to help determine
which direction to wrap the wire.
Step Four. Finish the piece by wrapping the wire around the wire segment between peg 1
and 2. See Figure 183 for a sample of what the finished earring body should look like. At
this point, you add five bead dangles to each of the bottom loops in the earring body. Finish by connecting the earring body to an ear wire.
As always, please practice this piece at least three
times in inexpensive practice wire before making the
final, finished piece.
Figure 185 Direction of
Wraps
As with our earlier projects, there are several alternatives that can be considered when making these earrings. One alternative is to move Peg 1 down one hole
to shorten the segment between Peg 1 and 2. This may
make the earrings more esthetically pleasing. Another alternative is to wrap the outside loops with fine
gauge wire similar to the Rolex Style that we showed
in Project 9. You can also consider hanging a small
bead dangle using a 4mm crystal bead from the loop
formed by Peg 2. You may also add a bead to the wire
between peg 1 and 2 before you begin to make the loop
around peg 2 by hand. The final alternative to
1
consider is making a custom ear wire
with a 4mm crystal bead to match the
6mm crystals in the bead dangles at the
bottom.
2
10
9
Figure 186 shows an adaptation of this
design for the WigJig Delphi, or other
square hole pattern jig. Please note
that this is a modified design and not
the same as the original design on the
Cyclops. The design from the Cyclops
could not be adapted peg for peg onto a
square hole pattern jig.
8
7
5
3
4
6
Figure 186 Peg Pattern
for WigJig Delphi
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Intermediate Project 11: Candelabra Earrings (Continued)
In some ways the piece in figure 186 is easier to make than the original design on the
WigJig Cyclops. The design in Figure 186 can be adapted to the Cyclops by removing pegs
4 and 10 from the pattern shown in Figure 184.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Intermediate Project 12: Necklace with Handmade Yoke
Introduction:
This project uses the same skills we used to make
bracelets and earrings, but this time instead of
making an earring body, we will make a yoke to
hang a watch from a necklace. In general a yoke
is a piece of wire that is roughly “Y” shaped and is
used to connect a heavy bead or large dangle to the
center of a necklace. See figure 187 A and B for a
sample of the necklace we will make. Figure 188
shows a close-up of the yoke to be made.
Tools and Materials:
This project uses the same tools as the previous
projects. The materials include sixteen 8mm pearls
or glass pearls, thirty-two Bali-Style 8mm Bead
Caps, thirty-two 4mm round silver beads, one
lobster claw clasp, one split ring finding, six inches
of 18 gauge sterling silver half-hard, round wire,
Figure 187A Project 12
about forty inches of 22 gauge sterling silver halfhard, round wire, and one small silver-tone pocket
style watch. Directions are provided for making this piece using a WigJig Cyclops. At the
end, we show how to use a WigJig Delphi, or square hole pattern jig instead.
Yoke
Figure 187B Project 12
Figure 188 Close-up
of Yoke
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Intermediate Project 12: Necklace with Handmade Yoke
(Continued)
Directions:
1
Let’s begin this project by making
the yoke. This step is almost identical to the earrings we made in Project 8. Start by making a wrapped
loop in a 6 inch piece of 18 gauge
wire. At this point, add one 4mm
2
sterling silver round bead to the wire
(not shown in Figure 189) This bead
goes on the wire segment between
pegs 1 and 2 as close to peg 1 as
possible. Place this loop over Peg 1
3
5
and position the wire so that you can
4
estimate where to start making the
initial loop around peg 2 manually.
Using your chain nose or bent chain
Figure 189 Yoke on Jig
nose pliers, bend the wire at about a
75 degree angle away from peg 2.
Using your round nose pliers grasp the wire near the bend that you just made and bend the
wire to make the partial bend around peg 2 as we did in the prior projects. Place the initial
loop on peg 1 with the wire to the left of peg 2 and the wire tail resting against peg 3. Now
wrap the wire around peg, 3 and 4 as shown in Figure 189. At this point you remove the
piece from the jig and flip it over so that the loop made on Peg 3 is now on Peg 5, with the
loop on Peg 4 still on Peg 4. Complete wrapping the wire so that the piece looks like Figure
189. Now remove the wire from the jig. Finish making the yoke by wrapping the wire
tail around that wire segment that went between pegs 1 and 2. See Figure 188, above for
a closer view of the completed yoke. Make the wire chain to connect on either side of the
yoke using the wrapped bead link covered in the early portion of this book. The bead link
is made up of one 4mm round sterling silver bead, one bead cap, a pearl, a bead cap and
is finished by a 4mm round sterling silver bead. See Figure 190 for a close-up of this link.
This chain needs to be about 30 inches long. 8 bead wrap links on either side of the yolk are
needed. A short segment of chain about 3/16 inch long is used between each bead link.
Figure 190 Bead Link
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Intermediate Project 12: Necklace with Handmade Yoke
(Continued)
Directions (Continued):
Figure 191 shows how the lobster clasp is attached directly to the wrapped bead link, with
the loop to connect to the clasp made as just a
larger than normal loop in the wrapped bead
link on the other side of the necklace. (See
figure 191.)
Figure 191 Clasp and Catch
Figure 192 shows how to make this yoke on a
WigJig Delphi or other square patterned jig.
This project can be modified in many ways. The
wrapped bead link with the pearls could be replaced
with faceted crystal beads to give an entirely new look.
The yoke itself could be made larger by moving pegs
3, 4, and 5 one or more holes further from the center
of the WigJig Cyclops. You could use 16 Gauge wire
instead of 18 gauge wire to make the yoke bolder. As
another option, Peg 4, and the loop aroung this peg
could be eliminated. Finally, 20 Gauge wire could
be used instead of 18 gauge wire to make the yoke
more delicate. These are just a few of the options for
making this necklace.
Figure 192 Delphi Pattern
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Final Skill -- How to make Findings: A Handmade Clasp
Introduction:
In this section we will show one design for making a handmade clasp for a bracelet or necklace. This particular clasp is very strong getting this strength from wraping wire around
itself. There are simpler styles of handmade clasps, but they are not as strong or permanent. This particular design was made on the WigJig Cyclops, but a pattern for making a
similar design on the WigJig Delphi or other square pattern jig will be provided. You can
view the finished clasp in Figure 193 below.
Along with making this particular clasp, a secondary skill will be shown -- how to add a
guard chain to a bracelet. Guard chains are not required, but are recommended, especially
when using magnetic clasps. Any bracelet made with quality materials deserves a guard
chain, and they are not hard to do. You can see the guard chain in Figure 193.
This clasp can also be made in colored wire to compliment a project.
Tools and Materials:
This clasp requires about 8 inches of 20
gauge wire preferably half-hard, although
soft will do. I also used about 2 inches of
a very fine chain to make the guard chain,
and one split ring finding to attach the
guard chain to the clasp.
This project was made on the WigJig
Cyclops, but it uses a simple peg pattern
that can be done on any jig with either a
square or round peg pattern.
Figure 193 Finished Clasp
One 3/16 inch Super Peg and two regular pegs are required. A normal set of hand tools
is also required, including round nose pliers, flush cutter, and bent chain nose pliers. This
project can be completed without step jaw pliers, but the end result will be much better if
you use the step jaw pliers. If you don’t have step jaw pliers, use round nose pliers instead.
Directions:
Step One: Cut and straighten an 8 inch piece of wire.
Step Two: Place the pegs in your jig according to the placement in Figure 194. (see the following page.)
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Final Skill -- How to make Findings: A Handmade Clasp
(Continued)
2
1
3
Figure 194 Peg Placement for WigJig Cyclops
Step Three: Using your round nose pliers make a loop on one end of the wire.
Step Four: Place the loop you just made on peg 1 of the jig and wrap the wire as shown in
Figure 194. To make this piece you will need to wrap the wire around Super Peg 2 twice.
The first wrap is counter-clockwise from peg 1, around peg 2 to peg 3. the second wrap is
also counter-clockwise from peg 3, around peg 2, and to the left.
Step Five: Remove the wire from the Jig.
Step Six: Now we have to bend the two loops
around peg 2 so that it looks like Figure 195.
This is done by bending one clockwise and
the other loop counter-clockwise. This can be
done by hand. (Please note that in Figure 195
you are looking at the wire with the wire on
edge. Your view is from peg 1 toward peg 2.)
Figure 195 After twisting Loops
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Final Skill -- How to make Findings: A Handmade Clasp
(Continued)
Step Seven: By hand squeeze the wire that went
around peg 3 together so that the loop around peg 3 is
smaller and tighter.
Step Eight: Cut off the wire segment with the loop
about 1/4 inch above the wire segment that went to and
from peg 3. The wire should now appear like Figure
196
Figure 196 How to Grasp
Figure 197A: Wire After Bending
Figure 197B: Wire After Bending
the Short Segment
Step Nine: Grasp the two
loops that went around peg
2 with chain nose pliers so
that you can bend the short
wire segment that you just
cut down to be in line with
the wire segment that went
to and from peg 3. See
Figure 197 A and B for how
the wire should look at this
point.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Final Skill -- How to make Findings: A Handmade Clasp
(Continued)
Step Ten: Now change your grip with your
chain nose pliers and grip the two loops that
you made around peg 2 as shown in Figure
197B. Hold firmly and wrap the long wire tail
around the wire segment that went to/from
peg 3. Wrap the wire around about six times.
When the wrap is completed the piece should
appear like Figure 198. Stop the wrap with the
wire below the wire segment that went to and
from peg 3 with the wire oriented as shown in
Figure 198. Cut the wire tail. This will become
the inside of the clasp and won’t show the cut
end. Using chain nose pliers, tuck in the loose
end.
Step Eleven: Now we need to add a
30 degree bend in the end of the wire
segment to and from peg 3. Grasp
the segment 1/4 inch from the end
with chain nose/bent chain nose
pliers and bend it up only about 30
degrees. Figure 199 shows the wire
after the 30 degree bend.
Figure 198 After the Wrap
30 degree
bend
Figure 199 Grasp with the
Step Jaw Pliers
Step Twelve: Grasp the piece with the step jaw
pliers as shown in Figure 199 and bend the wire to
make a loop. Using the step jaw pliers allows you
to make the bend the same in both sides of the wire.
Round nose pliers will not work as well. Figure 200
shows what the piece looks like before removing
from the step jaw pliers. The finished loop should
almost touch the wire wrap at the 30 degree bend.
See Figure 201 for a another view of the completed
loop.
Figure 200 Make the Hook
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Final Skill -- How to make Findings: A Handmade Clasp
(Continued)
Step Thirteen: Now grasp the loop in the
clasp with the largest increment of the step
jaw pliers and bend the loop so that it is
centered on the clasp. This process is just
like taking a “P” loop and making it an Eye
Loop. The finished product should look
like Figure 202.
Figure 201 Center the Loop
To make the loop that this clasp connects to is very
simple. You can connect this loop to a soldered jump
ring finding that you purchase, or you can connect it
to a larger loop that you make in a wrapped bead link.
The latter is the approach that I prefer.
Figure 202 The Finished
Piece
In the following pages we will do a project that incorporates this clasp along with a guard chain to make a
finished bracelet. This project will also provide a better
explanation on how to form the loop that mates with
this clasp.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Final Project: How to Make a Bracelet with a Handmade
Clasp
Introduction:
This final project will incorporate
the skills of making a hand made
clasp with the wrapped bead link
skills that we learned earlier. We
will make a bracelet that is very
strong, will wear well and yet looks
handmade. If done well you may
receive the backhanded compliment that I once received -- “What
machine did you use to make this”.
When the wraps in the clasp and in
the wrapped bead link are done well,
people can mistake this bracelet for
one made by a machine.
Figure 202 Final Project
Tools and Materials:
This project uses the same tools as we used to make the hand made clasp. The materials
are about 8 inches of 20 gauge half-hard wire, 15 inches of 22 or 24 gauge half-hard wire, 2
inches of fine chain and 6 inches of slightly heavier chain, six 8mm round beads and twelve
3mm round metal filled beads. In the bracelet shown above, gold-filled wire, chain and
metal beads were used.
Directions:
Step One: Using the 8 inches of 20 gauge half-hard wire, make a clasp using the steps
described in the previous section.
Step Two: Using the 22 or 24 gauge half-hard wire, make a wrapped bead link chain, with
the first loop in the chain connected to the clasp before it is wrapped closed. When making
this initial loop, make it slightly larger than normal to allow extra room to go around the
clasp. You should remember that you make a larger loop by holding the wire further from
the tips on your round nose pliers. You can also add the guard chain to this first loop of the
wrapped bead link by threading one link from the 2 inch fine chain onto this first loop in
the wrapped bead link.
Step Three: After closing and wrapping the initial loop, add one 3mm metal bead, one
8mm round bead and a second 3mm round bead to the wire and make the loop for the
other end of this wrapped bead link. Before wrapping this second loop closed, cut a 1/2
inch long segment from the 6 inch commercially manufactured chain and thread one link
from that short chain segment onto the loop. I used a manufactured chain segment about
1/2 inch long. After adding the manufactured chain link, wrap the loop closed.
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Wire Design Basics Book 2
Final Project: How to Make a Bracelet with a Handmade
Clasp (Continued)
Step Four: Continue making wrapped bead links and adding chain segments until the
bracelet is just about 7 to 7 1/4 inches long, ending in a wrapped bead link and not a chain
segment. Make the last loop in the wrapped bead link as large as you can, because this loop
becomes the catch for the clasp that we made in Step One. Before wrapping this final loop
closed, add the end link from the guard chain to the loop. Once the guard chain is added,
complete the wrap to finish this link. At this point the bracelet should be ready to wear.
Notes: You may have to adjust the length of the heavier gauge chain links to make the
finished bracelet come out to between 7 and 7 1/2 inches long. To help make this happen,
measure the length of the clasp and each combination of wrapped bead link and chain
segment. Remember that you will have approximately 6 wrapped bead links and 5 chain
segments in the finished barcelet. If you calculate that the bracelet will be too long or too
short, try to add or remove links in the chain segments to make it come out correct. If your
calculations show that you are off by an inch or more, consider adding or eliminating an
entire wrapped bead link and chain segment combined. (Given the measurements used in
this project, you should not be off by much.)
Alternatives:
In Figure 203, you can see that I connected the gaurd chain directly to
the clasp by a split ring finding. This
is an alternative to connecting it to
the wrapped bead link for the first
bead and may be esthetically more
pleasing.
You may want to use the same design
to make a necklace to match. If you
do, the guard chain should be eliminated. With a necklace you might
want to add an additional wire component made on a jig to add decorative interest.
Figure 203 Finished Project
Showing Guard Chain
© 2003 Gary Helwig & WigJig @ www.wigjig.com
Appendix
Wire Gauges
Gauge
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
Inches (“)
0.1019
0.0907
0.0808
0.072
0.0641
0.0571
0.0508
0.0453
0.0403
0.0359
0.032
0.0285
0.0253
0.0226
0.0201
0.0179
0.0159
0.0142
0.0126
0.0113
0.01
0.0089
0.008
0.0071
0.0063
0.0056
0.005
0.0045
0.004
0.0035
0.0031
1 inch = 25.4 millimeters 1 millimeter = .03937 inches
Millimeters (mm)
2.59
2.30
2.05
1.83
1.63
1.45
1.29
1.15
1.02
0.912
0.813
0.724
0.643
0.574
0.511
0.455
0.404
0.361
0.321
0.287
0.254
0.226
0.203
0.179
0.160
0.142
0.127
0.114
0.102
0.089
0.079
Appendix II
Feet Per Ounce by Gauge
Gauge
10
12
14
16
18
20
21
22
24
14K Gold-Filled Round
2.16
3.48
5.48
8.75
13.80
21.68
29.60
35.50
55.50
Sterling Silver Round
1.83
3.00
4.66
7.50
12
19
24
31
48