Issue No. 182 Friday, April 17 - Thursday, April 30, 2015 Page 9 Page 10 ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 [email protected] Drugs, diamonds and bullets: Balkan arms firm linked to criminal investigations The Montenegrin government sold its multimillion euro defence firm to a consortium linked to a series of serious criminal investigations. Montenegro Defence Industry, MDI, was sold to Belgrade-based CPR Impex and the Israeli ATL Atlantic Technology Ltd, both linked to legal troubles. Photo by AFN-Pacific Hawaii News Bureau/Flickr Asylum-seekers abused by Serbian police, report claims A Human Rights Watch report accused Serbian police officers of abusing, beating and extorting money from migrants and asylum-seekers, but the interior ministry denied the claims. A Pay and pension increase unlikely despite deficit cut Stevan VELJOVIĆ COMMENT Human Rights Watch report on the treatment of migrants and asylum seekers in Serbia that was published on April 15th claimed that border police have been threatening, beating, insulting and extorting money and valuables from migrants and asylum-seekers. 771820 833000 Friday • June 13 • 2008 C Continued on page 4 9 01 Serbia’s surprise deficit reduction has led to optimistic talk of raising pensions and public sector pay to pre-austerity levels, but experts warn the economy remains far too fragile for that. Ivan ANGELOVSKI Dušica TOMOVIĆ orruption, money laundering, unpaid bills, illegal arms sales to Libyan Islamists and involvement in a cocaine smuggling ring – these are just some of the allegations that have been made against controversial businessmen linked to the privatisation of one of the Balkans’ most powerful arms dealers. Montenegro Defence Industry, MDI, was sold on March 4th to Belgradebased CPR Impex and Israeli ATL Atlantic Technology Ltd for €680,000 without fanfare. ISSN 1820-8339 BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY “Serbian authorities should be protecting asylum-seekers and immigrants, including children fleeing war and persecution, not allowing the police to victimize them,” said Emina Ćerimović of Human Rights Watch. The Serbian interior ministry told BIRN however that no migrants had reported allegations of abuse. +381 11 4030 306 “No irregular migrant has addressed the ministry with a complaint that they have been harassed by police officers or forced to hand over money and a mobile phone nor to report that they were threatened with detention, deportation or physical violence,” the ministry said in a written response. “The claims made by the surveyed migrants and asylum-seekers are not supported by facts and evidence which would help in the process of determining the specific responsibilities of the police officers of the Border Police,” it added. However the ministry admitted that the police force has so far filed five crim- [email protected] inal charges against its own officers suspected of taking bribes from migrants. According to the Human Rights Watch report, abuses have been reported all over the country but particularly in Subotica, the northern Serbian town on the border with Hungary. Subotica is a key stop for many migrants trying to cross Serbia and enter the EU via Hungary. The report is based on interviews with 81 asylum-seekers and migrants, including 18 children, conducted in both Serbia and Macedonia from November 2014 to January 2015. Continued on page 2 B etter than expected financial results for early 2015 have given the Serbian Government’s reform programme a boost, allowing officials to say austerity measures are now bearing fruit. The budget deficit stood at €179.2 million at the end of the first quarter of the year, less than half of the €458m shortfall originally predicted. The deficit reduction already “equals annual cuts in salaries and pensions – taxes and contributions included,” said Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić, prompting him to broach the possibility of putting pensions and public sector pay back up to 2014 levels. Despite growing government optimism stemming from these encouraging first quarter results, experts are warning that Serbia’s public finances remain fragile and that it is still far too early to discuss increasing salaries and pensions. A 10 per cent cut was imposed last November on civil servants with salaries exceeding €210 and pensioners receiving monthly cheques of more than €330 as the government scrambled to slash state spending. Continued on page 7 Issue No. 1 / Friday, June 13, 2008 Dutchman bites back at Serbia again 1 Remote Serbia’s hidden treasures NEWS NEWS Belgrade pastry shop guards grandpa’s secrets Page 6 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 17 - Thursday, April 30, 2015 SERBIA Goran Hadžić, who is currently on trial for war crimes at the International Criminal Tribunal for the Former Yugoslavia, flew into Belgrade airport on April 15th after the court approved his provisional release to undergo medical treatment. The head of Serbia’s National Council for Cooperation with the ICTY, Rasim Ljajić, said that Belgrade had given guarantees to the UN-backed court that Hadžić would be monitored and get proper treatment while he is in the country. Hadžić is facing 14 counts of war crimes and crimes against humanity over his alleged involvement in the forced removal and murder of thousands of non-Serb civilians from Croatia between 1991 and 1993. Continued from page 1 Serbia in brief Freed Croatian Serb leader Hadžić arrives in Serbia PRESS REVIEW Asylum-seekers abused by Serbian police, report says DANAS, APRIL 16th BILLIONS GONE, NO NEW WAGONS Even though the Serbian government handed over around €68 million over the last five years for the overhaul of Serbian Railways’ wagons, the rolling stock remained in the same condition, while the majority of companies which have already been paid for the job are on the list of the biggest tax debtors, and some owe salaries to their employees. The information comes from a report by the Anti-Corruption Council. Serbian Railways however claims 3,496 vehicles have been overhauled and around €56 million spent. That figure is disputed by the Anti-Corruption Council, which says that even if it is accurate, the companies still got more than €11 million for a job they didn’t do. VEČERNJE NOVOSTI, APRIL 16th TRADE UNIONS MIGHT HELP SOLVE JOURNALLIST’S MURDER Asylum-seekers abused by Serbian police, report claims A Human Rights Watch report on the treatment of migrants and asylum seekers in Serbia published on April 15th claimed that border police have been threatening, beating, insulting and extorting money and valuables from migrants and asylum-seekers. The Serbian interior ministry told BIRN however that no migrants had reported allegations of abuse. “The claims made by the surveyed migrants and asylum-seekers are not supported by facts and evidence,” it said. Suspected thieves of Serbian PM’s brother's ID held Serbian police detained more than 15 people on April 10th in several towns and cities on suspicion of involvement in identity theft and forging IDs. They are suspected of involvement in a scam to use forged personal documents, including that of Andrej Vučić, the Prime Minister’s brother, in order to register "phantom" companies that were later used for financial fraud. The case caught public attention last October, when an opposition MP claimed that a company owned by Andrej Vučić owed about €233,000 in taxes. Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić then declared that his brother’s identity had been stolen. Former leaders of Jagodina’s brewery trade unions could have knowledge about the killing of journalist Milan Pantić, Novosti can reveal. The investigation showed that the former union leaders were connected to the brewery’s management and that know key information concerning the murder of the Novosti correspondent from Jagodina in 2001. Several months before he was killed, Pantić published a series of articles about wrongdoing at the brewery. Three Syrian men built an improvised sleeping area outside of the Asylum Center in Bogovađa because police had refused to register their intention to seek asylum so the centre’s administration had refused to admit them. T wenty migrants and asylum-seekers, including seven children aged 13 to 17, said police officers in Subotica forced them to hand over their money and mobile phones, while insulting and threatening them with violence and deportation. “Five, including children, said the police hit, kicked, and punched them. Two said police hit them in the eyes with pepper spray,” the report states. Six other migrants and asylumseekers said police officers slapped or punched them while fingerprinting them or when they registered to apply for asylum in other locations across Serbia. The ministry however insisted that claims of harassment of asylum-seekers while registering were “unacceptable” because the applicants’ legal rep- resentatives are also present during the process. Eight of those interviewed by Human Rights Watch said that the police sent them back to Macedonia, from where they had travelled to Serbia, without allowing them to apply for asylum. Another four said border police asked them for money or face being returned to Macedonia, only releasing them after they had paid up. In addition, 13 people, including two unaccompanied children aged 14 and 17, said police had refused to register their intent to seek asylum, which left them not only without access to the asylum system, but also lacking shelter, food and medical care. “The authorities should put an immediate stop to police intimidation and abuse and hold those responsible to account,” said Ćerimović of Human Rights Watch. The Human Rights Watch report also Photo courtesy of Human Rights Watch called on the Serbian authorities to instruct officers to treat migrants and asylum-seekers fairly and immediately investigate cases of police abuse. “The government should issue clear guidance to police officers that they should treat asylum-seekers and migrants with respect and in a manner consistent with human rights obligations, and should never summarily deport them. “Officials should make clear that police [officers] will face punishment for harassment, violence, and extortion,” Human Right Watch wrote. The number of migrants crossing Serbia in an attempt to reach the EU has significantly increased in recent years, as has the number of people claiming asylum in Serbia. The Human Rights Watch report states that the number of asylum-seekers in Serbia rose from 5,066 in 2013 to 16,490 in 2014. Find your copy of Belgrade Insight here: SUPERMARKET CONCEPT STORE Address: Višnjićeva 10 KOLARAC Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL VOZAREV Address: Pop Stojanova 16 RESTAURANT ZAVIČAJ Address: Gavrila Principa 77 MONUMENT Address: Čika Ljubina 9 HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Kneza Miloša 5 HOTEL 88 ROOMS Address: Takovska 49 MIXER HOUSE Address: Karađorđeva 46 HOTEL MOSKVA Address: Balkanska 1 HOTEL PRAG Address: Kraljice Natalije 27 HOTEL METROPOL Address: Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 69 TOURIST ORGANISATION OF SERBIA Address: Čika Ljubina 8 HOTEL SQUERE NINE Address: Studentski trg 9 HOTEL HYATT Address: Milentija Popovića 5 HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF Restaurant Mali vrabac Address: Skadarska 34 GYM DR FEELGOOD Address: Kolarčeva 3 CAFE SNEŽANA Address: Knez Mihailova 50 HOTEL CROWN PLAZA Address: Vladimira Popovića 10 HOTEL TOWN HOUSE Address: Maršala Birjuzova 56 HOTEL IN Address: Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 56 INTERGALACTIC DINNER Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 85A BLIC, APRIL 16th DEFENCE MINISTER FEELS NO GUILT OVER HELICOPTER CRASH RESTAURANT BIZU Address: Andre Nikolića 1-3 CAFE CAFFELOUNGE Address: Vase Pelagića 48 Serbia’s defence minister Bratislav Gašić said that he feels no responsibility for the deadly crash helicopter on March 13th, adding he would act exactly the same in a similar situation. Gašić also said that the Serbian prosecution should decide when the report on the tragedy, prepared by the commission in charge of the helicopter crash, is published. After the meeting with his Russian counterpart Sergey Shoygu in Moscow, Gašić said they discussed Serbia’s possible purchase of helicopters for the army from Russia, adding that Serbia has the money to buy one helicopter. BIRN has not verified the reports and cannot vouch for their accuracy. ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 [email protected] http://www.balkaninsight.com/en/ page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Temišvarska 19 THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Smetanina 12 Address: Kolarčeva 7 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 17 - Thursday, April 30, 2015 3 ADVERT THE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE The International School of Belgrade (ISB) is an independent, co-educational international day school that enrolls students ages three to eighteen. ISB is the oldest international school in Belgrade, delivering quality international education for over 67 years while inspiring and empowering students to discover their passions and to commit to lifelong learning. The curriculum is designed to serve a multi-national student body using English as the language of instruction and providing a high-quality, college-preparatory education with an emphasis on internationalism and global responsibility. ISB admits students of expatriate families living in Belgrade, and Serbian students desiring an international education. At present, ISB serves 390 students representing 42 nationalities. ACCREDITATION Like all quality international schools, ISB is accredited by several educational agencies: the New England Association of Schools and Colleges and the Council of International Schools. We are an authorized International Baccalaureate World School where students learn to implement change with compassion and creativity in a complex global environment. We are also authorized by the Ministry of Education of the Republic of Serbia. INTERNATIONAL FACULTY Faculty and staff are also diverse representing ten nationalities and coming from almost all continents (Europe, North and South America, Australia, Africa). Our teachers are dedicated professionals, a majority holding multiple or Masters’ degrees in their areas of specialization. Their teaching is inspiring, student-centered and individualized, and their involvement in coaching and co-curricular activities provides a nurturing environment for students to excel in the arts, athletics, student government and service learning. ACADEMIC PROGRAMS ISB is a fully authorized International Baccalaureate World School offering IB programs at all levels of the school. International Baccalaureate Primary Years Program (PYP) - Pre-Kindergarten-Grade 5 We offer the Primary Years Program (PYP) for students in Pre-Kindergarten (ages 3 and 4) through grade five (age 11). Our newly designed Pre-Kindergarten program serves children of both ages 3 and 4, and includes developmentally appropriate learning and play-based engagements. Developed with the needs of the international student in mind, the PYP curricular framework focuses on the education of the whole child by fostering the social and emotional growth of our students while offering a relevant, engaging and challenging curriculum. This dual focus on knowledge and learning sparks a child’s natural curiosity by developing academic skills while enabling students to acquire a better understanding of the world and their place in it. International Baccalaureate Middle Years Program (MYP) - Grades 6-10 Due to the international composition of our families, ISB has a transient student body. We strongly believe that the three IB programs fully meet the diverse needs of both international students and their host country peers, and are proud to be able to offer the MYP continuum to PYP students, while preparing them throughout the MYP years with skills and concepts needed for the Diploma Program. International Baccalaureate Diploma Program (DP) - Grades 11-12 The IBO describes the DP as “a comprehensive and challenging pre-university course that demands the best from both motivated students and teachers. Typically, diploma holders are ready to debate real-world issues from an international perspective and to provide leadership and support in the local and global community. They demonstrate a capacity for in-depth study while maintaining a broad perspective of the different subject areas. They have a strong sense of their own culture and identity, as well as the ability to communicate in two or more languages with people who have a different perspective of the world.” COMMUNITY AND SERVICE We strive to develop our students’ sense of their community and their participation in its improvement. Community and Service is one of the five areas of interaction of the MYP. This area of interaction focuses on work within the school during the first part of the MYP and encourages students to be fully active in their local community and take on global issues by their final year of the MYP. CREATIVITY, ACTION, SERVICE (CAS) The CAS requirement is at the very core of the IB Diploma Program and it concentrates on the non-academic aspect of school life outside of the world of scholarship, providing a fresh counterbalance to academic studies. As our students enter the Diploma Program they are expected to act within their school, local community and ultimately beyond in the global community. Through CAS, our students learn to become better-informed, caring citizens of the world. MANY LANGUAGES, ONE SCHOOL: THE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE LANGUAGE PROGRAM The International School of Belgrade is committed to the ideal of international-mindedness. One interpretation of this concept is understanding oneself and one’s culture, and reaching out to understand others’ cultures and viewpoints. A key to understanding any culture is through language. Language learning, both of one’s mother tongue and a second and third language, is a hallmark of ISB. With 42 nationalities represented in the student body, there is a rich and diverse palette of languages spoken and also taught at ISB. Walking through the hallways and through the grounds of the beautiful campus, one hears many languages, ranging from English and Serbian to Italian, Chinese, and Hebrew. The diversity of our faculty compliments the students and brings even more international-mindedness to the school. AFTER SCHOOL ACTIVITIES At ISB we believe that students need more than a strong curriculum, good teachers, and time in the classroom to succeed. The After School Activities (ASA) programs at ISB strive to provide students with a variety of activities in the areas of sport, the arts, and academics where our students can participate, perform and compete in a safe, nurturing, and accommodating environment. We believe that ASAs play an integral part in our students’ education and growth, providing challenge and balance. By participating in ASA activities, students will mature socially, emotionally, and physically. We are firm believers that student involvement in sports and activities beyond the classroom environment contributes to the development of ideas and habits of leadership, discipline, emotional control, a healthy lifestyle and time management. MS & HS CEESA ACTIVITIES The International School of Belgrade is the only school in Belgrade that is a member of the Central Eastern European Schools Association (CEESA). As a member of CEESA our Upper School students and teams have access to a variety of international events and competitions across the continent. ISB has a proud record of being one of the most successful schools in the CEESA region over the last four years, as indicated by records at the various sports and activity events and competitions. COLLEGE PLACEMENT The goal of the college counselling program at ISB is to help students find the university that best fits their needs. Our graduates are accepted to premium colleges and universities throughout the world. Most ISB students apply to English-instruction universities in North America, the UK, and Europe. WIRELESS TECHNOLOGY AT ISB Because of the high density and mobile nature of its users, education is at the forefront of the wireless evolution. Classrooms are now highly dependent on digital resources and the instructional applications they enable. ISB has embraced next generation technologies that expand learning options, such as our 1:1 laptop-to-student initiative and cloud-based educational applications that support learning in the classroom. SCHOLARSHIP PROGRAM As an IB World School, the International School of Belgrade recognizes the importance of diversity in its student population, building strong community ties, and promoting academic excellence. We are proud to be able to provide financial assistance to academically promising individuals who would not, under normal circumstances, attend ISB. Parent Teacher Student Association (PTSA): Building Community Together ISB is fortunate to have strong support from the parent community, and one way this is evidenced is through the Parent-Teacher-Student-Association. The PTSA’s main aim is to support and build the ISB community. IN CLOSING It is indeed a rich and diverse learning community at ISB. This diversity invigorates and inspires students, teachers, and parents to navigate the ever increasing interconnected world of the 21st Century. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 17 - Thursday, April 30, 2015 SERBIA Continued from page 1 Drugs, diamonds and bullets: Balkan arms firm linked to criminal investigations A n investigation by the Balkan Investigative Reporting Network, BIRN, has since discovered how a Belgian arms and diamond dealer Serge Muller was arrested just hours after leaving the signing ceremony in Podgorica as he attempted to cross into Albania. Multiple sources have told BIRN how Muller plays a leading role in the Israeli firm and MDI’s privatisation. However, ATL and its partners deny that Muller, who is suspected of cocaine trafficking and money laundering by the Belgian authorities, is officially part of the deal, although they concede that he visited MDI three times in the past year “as a friend” of ATL and attended the signing ceremony. Petar Crnogorac, the owner of CPR Impex, faces his own legal problems after it emerged last week that the UN was investigating whether his firm Tehnoremont, a subsidiary of CPR Impex, and MDI broke an arms embargo by exporting weapons to Libyan Islamists. Crnogorac argues the deal never took place. THE LIBYAN LINK MULLER: ‘THE MAN BEHIND ATL’ Montenegrin police officers arrested Muller, a well-known figure in Europe’s diamond capital of Antwerp, on the basis of an Interpol Red Notice issued from Brussels on March 3rd, just a few hours after ATL and CPR Impex signed a contract and bought MDI. He was arrested while he was travelling from Podgorica to Tirana, to catch a plane to Israel, his base in recent years. A former pillar of Belgium’s diamond trading community, he has previously attracted much controversy over his involvement in mining the blood-soaked diamond fields of Sierra Leone and questionable arms deals. Muller, 59, is now in custody in Podgorica awaiting the outcome of an extradition hearing that could see him handed over to Belgian prosecutors to face charges of participating in a cocaine smuggling ring, having links to organised crime and money laundering. “The arrest warrant against Muller said that he was suspected of criminal offences of ‘participation in a criminal organisation, illegal drug-trafficking and money laundering, punishable under the Criminal Code of the Kingdom of Belgium’,” the Podgorica High Court told BIRN. An Antwerp-based court official with knowledge of the case told BIRN it centred on alleged cocaine shipments from South America to Antwerp and suspected money laundering. According to the source, judge Bruno De Hous “is investigating all Muller’s activities in which he earned, or could have earned and laundered dirty money: diamonds, weapons and drugs”. Muller is also accused of attending a meeting in Chile between members of drug cartels and a member of the Colombian terrorist organization FARC, according to the same source. Muller, who denies all the charges, can be held for up to six months in Montenegro but his lawyer told BIRN that the evidence presented by Belgium was Photo by Yarden Sachs/Flickr “poor” and he hoped his client would be released soon. An extradition hearing is expected to be held by April 17th. Although he cannot be found in the company records of the ATL Atlantic Technologies, BIRN’s investigation has discovered the firm is closely tied to Muller, who has made repeated journeys to MDI on the firm’s behalf in the past year, it is claimed. ATL Atlantic Technologies is a major Tel Aviv-based arms company established in 2009. Its sole owner and CEO is Israeli Agmon Shaked, according to official Israeli documentation. However, numerous sources and official documents suggest that Muller, who has been involved in the arms trade for at least 15 years, is at the very least a close associate of Shaked and ATL. Muller was officially joint-owner of ATL’s Bulgarian subsidiary, ATL Bulgaria, for more than a year to June 2014 when he offloaded his shares, according to records from the Bulgarian company registry. ATL’s website also listed an office in Antwerp’s Diamond Exchange Building, the address of several of Muller’s companies, according to an investigation by a Belgian journalist in 2012. The address was later taken down. And a Serbian military expert, who asked to remain anonymous, told BIRN that Muller was known in arms circles to be ATL’s “financier”. Despite his disappearance from ATL’s paperwork and website, BIRN has learned that he attended MDI’s offices three times on behalf of the Israeli firm with CPR Impex owner Crnogorac. In an interview with BIRN, Crnogorac first admitted that Muller is “the man behind ATL”. However, during the meeting he received a telephone call after which he insisted Muller was simply a friend of the firm. “Mr Serge Muller is in the same work as we are, he has important businesses, he’s very influential and as such he’s a respectable member of the Jewish community,” Crnogorac later explained in a statement. “ATL Atlantic is completely run by Mr Agmon Shaked, who was involved in negotiations on buying MDI, and who eventually bought this company along with me.” However, a senior, well-placed source at MDI told BIRN Muller was presented as “the boss” of ATL during the three visits to MDI made last year. Crnogorac refused to say which company Muller represented in these meetings and rejected claims he was introduced as “the boss”. “How can anybody know what we discussed?” he said. “There were only three of us in the office - Muller, [MDI director] Zoran Damjanović and me. No one else knows what we were talking about.” Damjanović, director of MDI, initially confirmed that Muller visited MDI’s offices in Podgorica as an ATL Atlantic representative but later said that Muller was present as “a friend of the Tel Aviv company”. Muller’s son, Benjamin Muller, who met BIRN at CPR Impex offices in Belgrade, declined to comment. ATL and Shaked did not respond to our requests for a comment while BIRN was unable to ask Muller directly about his involvement with the TelAviv firm. MDI’s Serbian owner CPR Impex is facing its own legal woes. The Belgrade-based weapon trading firm established in 2005 has exported arms to all corners of the world. Its owner and CEO, 35-year old Petar Crnogorac, is the son of the former marketing director at Zastava Arms, the statebacked weapons factory which produces the Yugoslav version of the AK-47. Crnogorac was arrested in July 2014 by Serbian police on charges of abuse of office over a series of military tenders between 2011 and 2013 to buy surplus army equipment during which, it is alleged, he received confidential information on other bidders. He has been released from custody, but the case remains under investigation. “[The] charges against me are nonsense, which is clearly proven by witnesses,” said Crnogorac. The Serbian businessman could possibly face more serious charges this month after it emerged the UN was investigating whether Tehnoremont, a CPR Impex subsidiary, via MDI had supplied weapons to Islamist fighters in Libya. The deal was allegedly brokered in December 2014, before the privatisation took place. Documents obtained by BIRN show that the UN Panel of Experts on Libya began a probe after it obtained a suspicious “end user certificate”, one of the key documents required to receive an export licence. The documents show a list of ammunition, rocket launchers and mortar shells to be exported by Tehnoremont and MDI to an official named as Khaled Sherif, apparently acting on behalf of the Libyan Ministry of Defence. The Sherif referred to is believed to be better known as Khalid al-Sharif, a former Libyan deputy minister of defence who visited Serbia in 2013 and who has close ties to Islamist fighters. Sharif is a former member of the Libyan Islamic Fighting Group, is known to have been detained by the CIA, and, according to the UN, “has clear links to Operation Fajr”, also known as the Islamist Libya Dawn which has set up a parallel government in Tripoli. The UN imposed an arms embargo on Libya in 2011 to prevent further human rights abuses, although sales to the internationally recognised government in Tobruk are currently allowed if approved by the UN in advance. Head of the panel of experts, Simon Dilloway, has requested copies of contracts, if they exist, from Serbia by the end of April in order to conclude whether the embargo has been breached. In Montenegro, the state prosecutor told BIRN that it had also opened an investigation into the claims. MDI and Crnogorac have rejected the allegations, saying that they have made no exports. Crnogorac told BIRN that while discussions had been held on exports to Libya, no deal had been signed and as a result there had been no reason to ask permission from the UN. One of the few conditions in the sale of MDI was that bidders could not have been found in breach of UN sanctions. This investigation is produced by BIRN as a part of Paper Trail to Better Governance project. BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 17 - Thursday, April 30, 2015 5 Revamp of Belgrade’s public transport system promised New bus and tram lines and revised prices and tariff zones to be introduced in early 2016, making the capital’s public transport system easier to use, officials say. B elgrade’s Faculty of Transport and Traffic Engineering is to conduct two further studies on the capital’s public transport system, after which new bus and tram routes are expected to be added to the current network. Private transport companies will be able to bid for contracts from the end of 2015. “We will present new network lines of public transport in the autumn, at the latest. It is time for changes because the current network hasn’t been changed for a while. Some lines were added, but sporadically,” Goran Vesić, Belgrade manager, told Večernje novosti daily on April 9th. The new tariff system is expected to divide the capital’s municipalities in four zones. Photo by Srđan Popović/ Wikimedia Commons A recently-published study conducted by the Belgrade-based private company specialized in traffic planning indicated that 2.5 million trips are made on public transport each day in Belgrade, with 63 per cent of commuters using just one line to get them from home to work. According to the study, the bus remains the most used form of public transport with the 95, 23 and 16 bus routes being the busiest. The tram system is the least used means of public transport in the capital. Dušan Rafailović from the city’s traffic secretariat said that only 15 per cent of people interviewed as part of the same study said they were not satisfied with public transport. “The poll was conducted with [the participation of] 10,000 users [of public transport] who said they are mostly satisfied,” Rafailović said. Fashion Week heading to town Hidden Belgrade The next Belgrade Fashion Week promises a packed programme of ecodiscussions, book launches and fashion shows, all taking place from April 20th to 29th at various locations across the city. Belgrade in brief BELGRADE Zemun shopping mall opening late May Belgrade’s first retail park will finally open at the end of May, the centre’s head, Miša Marković, told the Tanjug news agency on April 12th. According to him, the Israeli Mivne Group has so far invested around €25 million and will hire some 600 people. He promised: “A lot of foreign and domestic brands will be present here, also some surprises, as well as a special part for entertainment and the biggest playground in Serbia.” A second building phase is due to begin in late 2015 or early 2016, creating a further 15, 000 square metres of retail space, Marković added. Best of Belgrade at Milano Expo The Serbian capital will be promoting its economic and tourism potential during the sixmonth Expo Milano 2015 show in Italy, the Belgrade authorities announced on April 10th. From May 1st to October 31st, Serbian wood and textile manufacturers and representatives of the agricultural, IT and furniture industries will have a chance to present their products to the 20 million visitors expected to attend, Tijana Maljković from the Economy Secretariat told the media. The exhibition is entitled “ Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life”and more than 140 countries will participate by showcasing leading technological achievements that have contributed to healthy living, safety and sustainability. Fewer orphans in Belgrade’s care The number of children who live in Belgrade orphanages has decreased significantly in the last 10 years, according to officials from Zvečanska, the centre for the protection of infants, children and youth. There are fewer orphans in orphanages because, they say, the promotion of foster care has been so successful that 180 children are now looked after in foster homes. Last year, four children from the centre were adopted, mostly by parents living abroad, officials said in a statement on April 11th. Downtown: graffiti out, cameras in BFW is one of the most popular fashion events in Serbia. I t all starts with the Metropol Palace Luxury Night, during which XYZ Premium Fashion Store and Martini Vesto collections will be shown to the Belgrade audience. Apart from the fashion shows and collections by designers such as Ana Ljubinković, Vlada Savić, George Styler, Jasmina Vujović, Peđa Nerić, Aida Novosel Savić and many others, organizers announced a fashion conference will also be held to explore the relationship between fashion industries, ecology and environmental protection. During the conference, which takes place on Wednesday, April 22nd at the Ethnographic Museum, the book Good Photo by BFW/Archive Design by Tijana Popović Pješčić will be officially launched. Designs from the best young students will also be on show at the Fashion Incubator event hosted by the Galerija Štab on Friday, April 24th. Fashion Week takes place twice each year, in April and October, and is one of the most popular fashion events in Serbia. T his monument is located in Pionirski Park, directly in front of the National Assembly, and was a gift from the City of Aranđelovac in 1989 to mark the 9th summit of the Non-Aligned Movement. It is a statue of Nadežda Petrović, a Serbian painter born in 1873. Considered Serbia’s most famous impressionist and fauvist, she lived in her hometown of Čačak before moving to Belgrade with her family. She later relocated to Germany and Italy and exhibited her work throughout Europe. In the coming years of her life, Petrović had little time to paint and produced only a few works – she wanted to dedicate her life to helping soldiers in the war-stricken Balkans. In 1912, she volunteered to become a nurse following the outbreak of the Balkan Wars. She continued nursing Serbian soldiers until 1913, when she contracted typhus and cholera. She was awarded a Medal for Bravery and an Order of the Red Cross for her significant efforts. With the outbreak of World War I she again volunteered to become a nurse with the Serbian Army, eventually dying of typhus on April 3rd in 1915. She died in Valjevo, the then Kingdom of Serbia, aged 41. Around 6,500 square metres of graffiti has been removed from central Belgrade’s 1,300 Kaplara Street, the local authority has said. The Belgrade city clean-up is being extended to the nearby municipalities of Obrenovac and Lazarevac. The majority of the capital’s streets will be fitted with security cameras, said Belgrade manager Goran Vesić. Offenders can be sentenced to up to 40 hours of community service. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 17 - Thursday, April 30, 2015 BELGRADE Belgrade pastry shop guards grandpa’s secrets Musab is the youngest of the three brothers. The Pelivan pastry shop has been around for 164 years, surviving wars and regime change – but don’t ask them for the recipe of grandfather’s Azir’s prized ice cream. Ivana NIKOLIĆ “T he three of us have always been under pressure, as we know we can’t close the family business down and we know it has to be the priority,” Musab Al-Shukeir, the youngest of the three brothers, says. Every generation in this family has entrusted the next with the care of the 164-year-old Pelivan pastry shop, the 22-year-old political science student Photo by BIRN explains. “That is our duty now, too.” Al-Shukeir doesn’t intend to join the family business himself. His elder brothers will continue the tradition, while he plans to pursue a career in journalism or politics. “This is a family tradition and I will always be here. But I have found my path in other matters,” Al-Shukeir admits. While we are sitting in the packed shop, whose walls are covered with photographs of Belgrade, the youngest member of the Al-family recalls that the “Pelivan” can trace its history all the way back to 1851. In those days, it was located close to the Albania palace on Terazije. It stayed there until April 6th, 1941, when the pastry shop – like almost all the surrounding buildings – perished in the Nazi bombing of Belgrade. “At that time, grandfather Azir was working together with his cousin. But when the war broke out, his cousin left the country, while Azir moved the shop to where we are now, at Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 20,” Al-Shukeir explains. Over all these years, the original recipes have mostly stayed the same, although more pastries have been added to great-great-grandfather Mustafa’s collection. LONG FAMILY TREE It all started with great-great-grandfather Mustafa, a wrestler who opened Pelivan from the money he won as a prize in a wrestling tournament. Mustafa was a member of the Goranci community, who have lived in the mountains of southern Kosovo for centuries. Their origins remain unknown but they are thought to be ethnic Slavs who converted to Islam under the Ottoman Empire, retaining the Serbian language but adopting the Muslim faith. The pastry shop passed to Mustafa’s son, Mehmed, and from Mehmed to Al-Shukeir’s grandfather, Azir, and later on to his mother. The true specialty here is the ice cream, which the young student says his grandfather perfected. Decades on, the three brothers jealously guard the recipe. “We have his notebook in which he dismissed 30 to 40 recipes until he finally found the one that satisfied him, which we still use,” Al-Shukeir notes proudly. In 1979, their mother married a Syrian who had come to Yugoslavia to study medicine. “He never finished his studies. He stayed here and ran the business from 1994, which is when our grandfather died, until 2011, when the three of us took over,” Al-Shukeir recalls. Their father is now back in Syria, where he has been caught up in Syria’s terrible civil war. “We are worried but we talk to him every second We have his [grandfather Azir’s] notebook in which he dismissed 30 to 40 [ice cream] recipes until he finally found the one that satisfied him, which we still use.” Musab Al-Shukeir day. Hopefully he will come back,” AlShukeir says. Over coffee, Al-Shukeir talks about all the sweets that his family makes in the pastry shop. Clients come and go – it seems that this place is never actually empty. NO SIGN OF LEAVING Based on what his grandson recalls, Azir was the most important figure in the family. As Al-Shukeir explains, his grandfather even supplied treats for the Yugoslav royal family, the Karađorđevićs, providing the court with halvah. The business survived Yugoslavia’s dramatic transition from centralized monarchy to Communist federation unharmed. Indeed, Yugoslavia’s long time Communist leader, Josip Broz Tito, seems to have been partial to the family cookies. “No one ever made problems for grandfather, neither the monarchists nor the Communists,” Al-Shukeir notes. Problems only occurred when Yugoslavia broke up into its component units and anti-Albanian sentiment surged in what was now the Republic of Serbia. Some people saw the Muslim Goranis as Albanians, and targeted them as a separatist war began to rage in the late 1990s in mainly Albanian Kosovo – then a province of Serbia. During the protests against Slobodan Milošević’s regime, “someone threw a stone at our shop window. I don’t think it was aimed at our origins; such things were happening all over the city at that time,” Al-Shukeir says, adding the family has never felt any kind of discrimination. On the contrary, Belgraders love their products and many clients have been coming here for decades. Still, business is not that good – far worse than during Pelivan’s golden age, from the 1940s to the start of the economic crisis in Yugoslavia in 1981. The economic troubles afflicting Serbia today are affecting trade. “You cannot get rich from this job, but closing it down would be a huge loss. We are staying here,” Al-Shukeir concludes. BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 17 - Thursday, April 30, 2015 BUSINESS ADVERTORIAL Continued from page 1 Pay and pension increase unlikely despite deficit cut Perfect Wellness Service Whether you came on business or for private reasons, don’t forget that you’re in the fastest-living city in the region – relaxation is of the utmost importance. M Milojko Arsić says salaries and pensions are crucial to stabilising Serbia’s public finances. T he government introduced cuts in order to meet the necessary requirements to reach the loan agreement with the IMF. The deal, which was suspended in 2012, was finally signed on November 20, 2014. Vučić said on April 7th that the government will monitor public finances over the next few months with a view to increasing pensions and public sector pay – if the IMF and the World Bank agree. However, during a TV interview four days later, the prime minister stressed the next six months are crucial in terms of determining the country’s economic stability. “We expect positive economic growth by the end of the year, and if we achieve this, and keep the deficit under control like we are now doing, we can say that Serbia is ‘healed’,” he said. The Serbian government has adopted strict budget targets in order to curb public debt which stood at €23.74 billion or 71.9 per cent of GDP at the end of February this year. It is aiming to keep the budget deficit below 4.75 per cent of GDP throughout 2015. Last year, the deficit reached €2.2 billion or 6.6 per cent of GDP, including €597 million spent on financing repayments for state-guaranteed loans and other interventions in the financial sector. DEFICIT REDUCTION ‘A ONE-OFF’ The IMF reacted cautiously to the Serbian Government’s announcement, underlining that there is no official proposal as yet regarding a possible salary and pension increase. “It is true that there are signs of recovery and that the results are better than expected, but we still need to carry out a serious analysis to see the nature of that data and whether the results are sustainable,” said Daehang Kim, IMF Resident Representative in Belgrade, on April 8th. The overall economic prospects are far from bright, despite the deficit reduction, as the IMF has predicted Serbia will end the year in recession. The government, on the other hand, remains optimistic that the tough spending and debt reduction programme will not impede growth significantly. “For the first time, I can say today that I expect their [the IMF’s] estimate to be inaccurate with regards to the growth rate for this year,” Prime Minister Vučić said on April 7th. The deficit cut is, in part, a result of improved tax collection, cuts in salaries and pensions and the early payment of dividends for 2014 by state-owned companies. Milojko Arsić, professor at the Economics Faculty at Belgrade University, cautioned that the figures could be misconstrued as dividends are usually paid out at the end of the year, not the beginning. “The revenue on this basis amounts to around €125 million, but it is a one-off measure,” he said. Another factor that has contributed to reducing the deficit has been the €49 million cut in public investment spending from 2014. “Only €20.8 million is to be spent this year, compared to €70.8 million in 2014. That is a harmful saving, which impedes future growth,” Arsić said. In addition, Arsić said that the originally predicted deficit of target of €458 million was set at a higher level than necessary. “Therefore only the increased tax revenues of €41.5 million to €50 million could be counted as better than planned… with current trends and with catching up with public investments, we can expect the deficit to be around €166 million below the predicted level,” he concluded. Vladimir Vučković, editor of the Macroeconomic Analysis bulletin, warned that public companies, from which the dividends were “aggressively collected” in January, had to reinvest part of their profits if they want to be sustainable. “In this regard, public companies may want to limit the appetite of the state,” Vučković warned on April 7th. NO ROOM FOR RAISES With these arguments in mind, experts say it is too early to think about increasing salaries and pensions, as the results are not as good as they look and money could still be needed elsewhere. “The improvements are there, mostly because of the improved revenues, but the results are far from spectacular,” Pavle Petrović, president of the Fiscal Council, the body charged with assessing fiscal policy, said at a panel held at the Economic Faculty on April 3rd. “If the fiscal results are sustained in the coming months, it would be better Photo by Media Centre Belgrade to use the money as an assurance in case of “slipping” in structural reforms, rather than on increase in salaries and pensions,” he added. An example of that could be found given the proposed restructuring of EPS, a power utility, might be delayed and that there had been little progress in reforming Srbijagas, a gas company, and resolving problems in the petrochemical complex. For years, many public companies had received subsidies to cover their losses or their arrears in the form of state-guaranteed – which is why their reform is mandatory. Ljubomir Madžar, an economist, agreed that the first quarter results are insufficient to properly assess the deficit trends for the whole year, adding that the budget shortfall could even worsen when other factors return to normal. The biggest uncertainty, in his opinion, is whether the reform of large stateowned enterprises will be successful. “The IMF introduced more strict mechanisms to monitor the implementation of reforms, which increases the chances of success, but it is far from certain that the reform will happen,” he warned. Arsić is also against the idea of increasing salaries and pension, noting these two items alone are worth €183 million in the first quarter of 2014, and are, therefore, crucial to stabilising Serbia’s public finances. “Serbia, as a partner, will lose credibility if one of the key measures is revised only a couple of months after the arrangement with the IMF was approved,” he added. Others such as Ljubomir Madžar, an economist, have argued that there is no economic basis for increasing salaries and pensions before 2018, and even 2020. “Before 2018 we will not be able to identify the elements which would justify such a move, and we can imagine that this period could even prolong to 2020,” he said. “Vučić came out too early with the prediction that it would be possible to revert the salaries at the previous level. If we could estimate the effects of that increase so quickly, then we could also have predicted the developments before the cuts and then there would have been no need to introduce them in the first place. “I am sure that the IMF would not agree with such proposal,” Madžar concluded. arin Milosavljevicć, marketing manager of the WellnessLand Center and SkyWellness Club will tell you a little more about reasons why those are decidedly the places which offer absolute maximum when it comes to spa services, saunas, massage and fitness activities in Belgrade. About autumn refreshments: For a whole decade in WellnessLand, and more than five years in SkyWellness, we’re in love with a healthy life. During those years we learnt that the essence of a good service shouldn’t be changed, but that occasional refreshments are always a good thing. With that in mind, this season we introduce new working hours – for the early birds, we’re open from 6:30 AM, which has garnered great approval from all our members, but also from our intermittent clients. Also, because of many guests from abroad, who spend several continual days or weeks in Belgrade on account of business, we devised a new kind of monthly fee, as well as a day pass. That way, we are more available than ever, and our service is still as exclusive as ever. About a unique concept of WellnessLand Center: Conceptually, WellnessLand is very close to Western clubs with exclusive membership. Our members appreciate their own privacy, as well as respecting the privacy of other people. Whether you’re here because of exercise, spa zone, pool, body treatment or some combination of the offered services, alone or in company, time spent in WellnessLand will relax you and prepare you for your various business and private challenges. Our permanent members come mostly by way of reccomendation, and we obviously have more than a good reputation among foreign guests of our city, because they keep coming back every time they return to Belgrade. About the excellent atmosphere in SkyWellness Club: In SkyWellness Club, we have a luxury of the best view in town. If you have ever heard those incredible stories about a night life on Belgrade’s rivers, the early-morning or day exercise with a perfect view on those same rivers will render you speechless! SkyWellness Club is young and full of positive energy, and a favorite city spot when it comes to best quality exercise. Sauna, various kinds of body treatments, and services of professional trainers are also available to our guests. About an incredible equipment: On both locations, we offer our guests exclusively the equipment made by renowned Italian manufacturer Technogym. We are aware that multitasking and clever utilization of every single moment are essential to modern living, and that’s the reason why you can, while excercising, check your email, talk via Skype, leave your status on social networking services, or just watch an episode of your favorite sitcom. Design, functionality and high quality of Tecnogym equipment are unmatched. Technogym is our first choice, because we do not compromise when it comes to the quality of our services. 7 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 17 - Thursday, April 30, 2015 Romania stages new attempt to seize illegal assets Prime Minister Victor Ponta on April 15th announced plans to launch new legislation to make the confiscation of assets obtained through corruption easier – part of Romania’s ongoing efforts to tackle highlevel graft. The Justice Minister is to issue a draft law by the end of this month. In recent years, Romania has intensified efforts to tackle the widespread problem of corruption. While the number of high-ranking officials sentenced for graft has increased significantly, the country failed to solve the illegal wealth issue. Last year, courts ordered the confiscation of assets worth 310 million euro in high-profile corruption cases, but authorities recovered only around 10 per cent of that amount. Region in brief REGION Romanians start to question jailbirds’ literary skills Catholic Church warns Albanians against vote-selling The Church urged Albanians on April 14th not to vote in June’s local elections for candidates with a corrupt or criminal past and not to accept payments in return for their votes. “Even an election boycott or a blank ballot is an option and a voice that must be heard and a right that must be used in specific conditions. If any of the candidates doesn’t fulfil the criteria, then a boycott becomes a moral duty,” an open letter from the Catholic Bishops’ Conference said. Albanians will vote on June 21st to elect local councillors and mayors but allegations are rife that some of the candidates have a criminal past or are suspected of being corrupt. Liberland: The Balkans’ newest sovereign state A Czech national has declared independence for the newlyformed state of Liberland situated on disputed territory on the Croatia-Serbia border. Equipped with a website, national flag and coat of arms, Vit Jedlicka announced on April 13th the creation of the new Balkan state. The six square kilometres of land that makes up Liberland lies along the Danube in what is technically a no-man’s land, since the territory is disputed between the two countries. Jedlicka claims that such actions are allowed under international law, thus creating the third smallest state in Europe after the Vatican and Monaco. Bosnia’s new EU chief pushes reform agenda At his first Sarajevo press conference, the new EU chief in Bosnia, Lars-Gunnar Wigemark, announced on April 15th that the EU will organise a high-level meeting in May with Bosnia’s leaders and representatives of the World Bank and the International Monetary Fund as the next step in the implementation of the EU’s new initiative for Bosnia. At the end of February, Bosnia and Herzegovina’s parliamentarians adopted a declaration drafted by the country’s presidency that affirms commitment to the country’s EU path and pledges a series of economic reforms intended to revive businesses and make the administration more efficient. Copos wrote five books while in jail, which helped him shorten his time behind bars. Many Romanians jailed for corruption write books in prison in order to get their sentences reduced - but their sudden enthusiasm for penmanship is drawing scrutiny. Marian CHIRIAC B efore he was sent to jail for corruption, George Copos was a busy man. The founder and main shareholder in the Ana Holding group of companies, with activities in the hotel industry, real estate and bakery, Copos became one of the wealthiest people in Romanian, with an estimated fortune of €165 million. Sixty-two-year-old Copos was also involved in politics, serving as a minister for the business environment for just over a year in 2005. But, his life changed course radically on March 2014, when he was found guilty of tax evasion and money laundering and sentenced to four years in jail. The controversial businessman was released from prison on April 7th after spending only 322 days in detention, a little more than a quarter of his sentence. “It was an incredibly hard experience, a nightmare. However, what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger,” Copos said loftily, as he emerged. “I must say that over these days and nights spent in detention I have read more than I ever did in my entire life.” He not only read a lot in jail but had time to wrote no less than five books about history and tourism. Copos worked also in the prison carpentry workshop and engaged in a variety of other activities organised by the jail. As a result, he managed to shorten his time behind bars quite considerably. Moreover, as he was over 60, the law also entitled him to a reduction in his sentence. Under Romanian regulations, every two days spent by inmates working on scientific works or patented inventions entitles them to reduce their period of detention by three days. Copos wiped about 218 days off his four-year sentence. However, the authenticity of one of the books written by Copos in jail is now in question, after a young historian said it sounds remarkably like his own MA thesis. Catalin Parfene, 34, noted that both the title and topic of the prison lag’s work, “Matrimonial alliances as a policy of Romanian Kings in the XIV-XVI centuries” seemed all too like his own MA thesis, published in 2005. “I’ve read Copos’s book at the National Library and noted a lot of similarities with my scientific work. I can’t say myself that he plagiarised my work, but I will ask a scientific committee from the Bucharest University to analyze it and present a conclusion,” Parfene told BIRN. Copos’s book is not available in any public bookshop. Even the publishing house that printed the book was not able to show a copy, saying it just printed and delivered books. Experts are also interested in finding out how Copos was able to write such a Photo by Ziare.com I must say that over these days and nights spent in detention I have read more than I ever did in my entire life.” George Copos detailed history book, as he has no professional background in this field. “To write a book on a Medieval topic, one need several skills: to speak Slavonic, the official language of that time, to have research abilities and, finally, to have access to documents and books on such a niche topic. None of these conditions were met by Copos while in jail,” historian Bogdan Caranfilov remarked. For his part, Copos on rejected any accusation of plagiarism and announced he has hired a “specialised company” to prove he is the sole author. Copos did not offer any more information about his historical sources. His is not the first case in which a Romanian convicted of corruption has been released early from prison after developing literary ambitions. In early April, the businessman and football boss Gigi Becali was also freed early after penning two books behind bars, one about his pilgrimages to Mount Athos and another one about managing a football team. In 2013, Romania’s former Prime Minister, Adrian Nastase, used his time in jail to compile a book on economics, which was published by a renowned publishing house. At least Nastase was no stranger to life as an author. A former law professor, he previously published several books on law and international relations. Many other people jailed for corruption appear to have published books in jail on different topics with a view to shortening their time behind bars. Journalist Sidonia Bogdan says the law in Romania on the subject is unclear and needs to be changed. “There should be clearer criteria ensuring that published books are real scientific works. Specialists or the publishing houses involved should also be made accountable for validating such books,” Bogdan added. The low ethical culture in Romania’s educational and publishing sector has been reflected in some top-level plagiarism scandals. In June 2012, the science journal, Nature, said documents presented by a whistleblower showed that substantial sections of Prime Minister Victor Ponta’s PhD thesis were identical, or almost identical, to material contained in monographs written by other Romanian law scholars. Soon after, two scientific bodies in charge of checking the authenticity of scientific works confirmed the report and called for him to be stripped of his PhD. However, in July 2012, the National Ethics Council, an Education Ministry panel, announced that Ponta did not plagiarise his PhD thesis, saying that it was written in accordance with the academic standards of the time that it was published. Ponta, who said his only mistake in writing his thesis was not to credit all the sources in the footnotes, but only in the bibliography, insisted the charges were politically orchestrated by his then rival, President Traian Basescu. In December 2014 Ponta decided to give up his controversial PhD, however. In May 2012, the Education Minister, Ioan Mang, resigned as a result of a row over his alleged plagiarism of scientific papers. BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 17 - Thursday, April 30, 2015 9 OUT AND ABOUT Stara Planina is known for its flora and fauna. Photo by Evgeni Dinev/Wikimedia Commons Remote Serbia’s hidden treasures Some of Serbia’s most beautiful and interesting sites are not to be found in the guidebooks - and lie far off well-worn tourist paths. Photo by MiroslavJovanović/Wikimedia Commons ICE CAVE, PRIBOJ Located some 150 kilometres north from Belgrade, in the province of Vojvodina, the nature reserve at Slano Kopovo is home to one of the most unusual landscapes to be found in Serbia. One of the last preserved salt marshes in Serbia, it was formed by the River Tisa that once ran through the area. After the river changed course it left behind its meandering contours, that emerged after the marshes were drained and after dykes were built in the 17th and 18th centuries. The river also left behind a thick layer of salt. The area looks stunning with dried, salty marshland and hundreds of birds. Slano Kopovo is one of the most important bird habitats in Serbia. Interestingly, many birds that are more typically found on the coast come to nest here. Besides nature, visitors can also see the nearby remains of the Arača Church, dating from the 13th century. It was built on a peninsula that the waters of the Tisa could not flood even when they reached their highest levels. For more information, visitors can contact Hunting Society Novi Bečej, which has the task of guarding the reserve. The ice cave near the town of Priboj is far from easy to visit, but with a little planning, it is definitely worth it. Located some 250 kilometres of Belgrade, near the border between Serbia and Bosnia, the cave hides an underground lake and – as the name suggests – a lot of ice. The ice pillars can be as much as six metres high. The temperature in the cave is always low, regardless of the season, owing to a natural phenomenon, which has turned this cave into natural icebox. Namely, the cold air flowing constantly into the cave from the lower entrance pushes warmer air up and out of the cave. Legends tell that the cave was discovered in 19th century when a local lord threatened to kill all the nearby villagers if they did not find his lost horse. After a search failed to produce results, one of the villagers mustered the courage to climb to the bottom of the cave where he found a dead horse. Interestingly, a National Geographic crew that visited the cave a few years back actually saw the remains of a horse, as well as human bones, at the bottom. The human bones are believed to be the remains of two Austrian soldiers who died while trying to get some ice. In order to see the cave, however, visitors must organise their tour along with local alpinists. Those interested in a bit of climbing and underground sightseeing in the Priboj area should contact the tourist organisations of the town. Besides the cave, the surrounding area is beautiful, with grasslands and memorable views of the sky at night, when it is full of stars. As is the case almost everywhere in Serbia, visitors should not expect five-star accommodation in the area, but there are several friendly, cosy local hotels. Hunting Society Novi Bečej Phone: +381 23 771 076 Tourist organisation of Priboj Phone: +381 33 2451 599, +381 33 2450 014 Photo by Snowyns/Wikimedia Commons NATURE RESERVE SLANO KOPOVO Photo by Boško Đurišić/flickr STARA PLANINA GORGE The gorge of the River Rosomača and waterfalls at Kopren are not on regular tourists maps, so visiting both or either of them takes a bit of planning, some phone calls and directional advice from locals on the way. The Rosomača Gorge is some 330 kilometres from Belgrade, next to the border with Bulgaria, and some 30 kilometres from the town of Pirot. The gorge is not that long but is unusual, as the water has carved a path, leaving layered edges on the stones it ran through. The entrance to the gorge is some 30 minutes walk from the village of Slavinja, down river. Although this could be fitted into a day trip, those who enjoy longer stays can find accommodation in local households in the village, and take time to visit the old church, built in 1844. Accommodation is also available in the nearby village of Visočka Ržana, four kilometres from Slavinja. Although many locals visit the gorge, it is off the beaten track, so for additional information and help, contact Tourist Organisation of Pirot. More adventurous souls can rely on locals alone, but be prepared to use legs and hands, as their English may not be up to the task of giving directions. Tourist organisation of Pirot Phone: +381 10 320 838 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 17 - Thursday, April 30, 2015 Korean Film Festival returns to Belgrade The second annual Korean Film Festival, organised by the Korean embassy in Belgrade, runs from April 22nd until April 26th. During the four days of the festival, eight Korean films will be shown at the Yugoslav Film Archive. The first film on show is “On the Front Line” (“Gojijeon”) on Wednesday at 8.30pm, right after the opening reception. All the tickets cost less than €2. Exhibition offers insights into WWI Russia The multimedia exhibition “Look War in the Eyes” showcases films, photographs and documents from Russia during World War I to give a detailed insight into the time. It runs until May 10th at the Historical Museum of Serbia. Tickets cost 200 dinars [€1,66], and 100 dinars for students and pensioners [less than €1]. Indian classical music comes to Kolarac A three-piece band called Rudra Veena will play Indian traditional instrumental music at the Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment on April 21st. The band got its name from a traditional Indian string instrument, the rudra veena, which is seldom used nowadays. The concert, organised by the Indian embassy in Belgrade, starts at 8pm and entrance is free. Belgrade’s Roma in the frame The Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts Gallery is hosting an exhibition which takes a look at the daily struggles of Roma people living in Belgrade in the early decades of the 20th century. The exhibition, entitled ‘Life on the Edge - Habitation of the Belgrade Roma 1919–1941’, focuses on the way Roma lived in the period between the two world wars, and draws parallels with the way they live today in the capital. The exhibition is open until April 29th. Sava Centre stages Don Quixote ballet Anna Tsygankova, the prima ballerina of the National Opera of Amsterdam, and Matthew Golding, a principal dancer with the Royal Ballet in London, take the main roles in the ballet about the famed Spaniard on April 29th at 8pm. The rest of the performers are from the Belgrade’s National Theatre, which has been staging ‘Don Quixote’ since 2007. Tickets for the event cost between €8 and €15, depending on seating. Arts in brief ARTS Dutchman bites back at Serbia again After publishing ‘Belgrade Bites’ last year, Yvo Kühling is back in print with ‘Serbia Bites’ - a collection of 100 short stories that he describes as a kind of ‘selfie’ of his years spent in this country. SATURDAY APRIL 18th Hristina Vuković, Belgrade Cultural Centre, Trg Republike 5, 8pm TUESDAY APRIL 21st Opera: Nabucco, The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm WEDNESDAY APRIL 22nd Ballet: The Sleeping Beauty, The National theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm FRIDAY APRIL 24th Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra with Eiji Oue, conductor, and Marc Coppey, cello, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm SATURDAY APRIL 25th Opera: Madamme Butterfly, The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7pm RTS Symphonic Orchestra, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm WEDNESDAY APRIL 29th Ana Raskovic, piano, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 6pm THURSDAY APRIL 30th Opera: La Traviata, The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm Exhibitions and Events FRIDAY APRIL 17th Exhibition: Students of Digital Art, Studentski Grad Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 179, 7pm SATURDAY APRIL 18th Kühling’s book has been well-received. have drawn lots of Serbian readers as well as foreigners. “You don’t have to encourage Serbian readers to tell you what they think. They are very outspoken, especially where it concerns their homeland. Some said Serbia Bites is kind of a selfie of my years in Serbia, and I like that,” Kühling says. Apart from turning his thoughts into short stories, Kühling owns a private company, which provides web tools for online consultancy solutions. “The idea behind Bites is twofold: I find it a challenge to write in a clear yet concise manner and restrict myself to a brief story as supposed to endless meandering of words,” he says. “I also realize that readers have a lot on their minds these days. If they invest a minute of their time reading one of my Bites, I want them to know that a twist or punch line is at the end of every one of them,” Kühling adds. Photo courtesy of the author Obviously, there are big differences between his hometown of Amsterdam and the Serbian capital. While The Netherlands is tolerant and progressive country, which upholds the rights of all kinds of minorities, the downside is that it can take weeks there to make an appointment just to see a friend and have a drink, Kühling notes. Everybody is in a hurry. In Serbia, things work differently. “Serbia could do with a little more tolerance, and The Netherlands could do with a little more blejanje,” Kühling adds. In the upcoming months, Kühling is saying farewell to Serbia, but he admits that he will miss some things terribly – starting with the green markets and raspberries sold by the kilo. He will take away a good deal from his four-year sojourn in the Serbian capital. “Wherever I go, I intend to bring a little bit of blejanje with me,” Kühling concludes. Exhibition: Goran Bendelja, Trag Café and Gallery, Dvoržakova 2, 6pm SUNDAY APRIL 19th Exhibition: African murals, guided visit, Museum of African Art, Andre Nikolića 14, 11am MONDAY APRIL 20th Exhibition: Bogdan Pavlović, House of the King Peter I, Vase Pelagića 40, 7pm WEDNESDAY APRIL 22nd Exhibition: Life on the Edge, Museum of Science and Technics, Đure Jakšića 2, 6pm THURSDAY APRIL 23rd Project Kaduregel Schefer, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 8pm FRIDAY APRIL 24th Exhibition: Renato Balestra –Fashion and Opera, The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7pm MONDAY APRIL 27th Monday Delicatessen: Ewox and Marquis, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 7pm TUESDAY APRIL 28th Exhibition: Petar Đorđević, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 7pm Available at: Tourist Organisation of Belgrade Knez Mihailova 5, +381 (11) 2635 622 Central Train Station, +381 (11) 3612 732 Nikola Tesla Airport, +381 (11) 2097 828 Belgrade Port, Karađorđeva FREE PULL OUT MAP OF BELGRADE FREE SIM CARD TOP SIGHTSEEING LOCATIONS PUBLIC TRANSPORT MAP GUIDED TOURS THROUGH BELGRADE WIDE SELECTION OF CLUBS, HOTELS, RESTAURANTS, SHOPS AND ENTERTAINMENT VALUE Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra with Muhai Tahg, conductor and Roland Szentpali, tuba, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm MONDAY APRIL 20th “I CITY GUIDE FRIDAY APRIL 17th Opera: Attila, The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm Ivana NIKOLIĆ originally intended to write Belgrade Bites and Serbia Bites for expats like myself. But then I understood that Serbs are interested in learning how a stranac dude thinks about their beloved country,” says Kühling. All his “bites”, be they about Belgrade or Serbia, are intended to provoke people and make them think. His latest book focuses mostly on Serbia’s past, present and future, explored in 100 short stories. “In your country, events of centuries ago still have an impact on everyday life. Bites describe the Roman, Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian and communist periods, most from unexpected angles and with some surprising twists,” Kühling says, without revealing their exact content. To write these “bites”, the author says he had to get to know Serbia as well as possible, and experience it first hand. This is what he has done since 2011, when he moved to Belgrade with his family. “Over the past years I travelled across Serbia and the region and visited a lot of historical sites and monasteries. Fortunately, I have a lot of friends here who helped me along the way. They suggested interesting facts and stories, much of which I used in Serbia Bites,” he says, explaining how he came up with his 100 stories. So far, the Dutchman’s book has received very positive feedback, after some of the sections were published on his website and on Facebook. They Opera, Ballet and Classical Hotel Moskva Terazije 20, +381 11 3642 000 Hotel Excelsior Kneza Miloša 5, +381 11 3231 381 Supermarket concept store Višnjićeva 10, +381 11 2910 942 Hotel Townhouse 27 Maršala Birjuzova 56, +381 11 2022 900 Booking Rooms Hostel Kralja Petra 30, +381 63 29 39 39 www.bookingrooms.rs APROPO Bookstore and tearoom Cara Lazara 10 +381 11 2625839 At the Belgrade Airport Hudson news odlasci / departures Hudson news dolasci / arrivals Hudson news čekiranje / check in Hudson news transit zona / transit Order online: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/ belgrade-city-guide BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 17 - Thursday, April 30, 2015 11 Gastro Bar Terminal It always begins with a simple question: ‘Can you bring me the wine list’? Everything else that follows is a complex matter, and cannot be measured only by how much is left in the bottle after dinner. Wine Corner DINING OUT Terminal: Gastro delight with a side of attitude Pavle GOLICIN I t just so happened that I went from one terminal straight to the other! The plane landed at Belgrade airport’s terminal D, but I did not have any connecting flights. My destination was somewhat different this time – a direct line to the gastro bar Terminal, which recently opened close to St. Sava church, in a neighbourhood fast becoming the city’s newest gourmet hub. The wine list includes close to 100 labels, with foreign wines represented more than domestic. The list is cleverly thought out with excellent depth. By any standards, it is a nicely organized wine terminal that easily intersects at any point on the menu. Approximately 20 wines are available by the glass, which is better than the average offering in Belgrade restaurants. This allowed me to combine the domestic Tamjanika with spring rolls as a starter, while for the main dish I paired French bio Syrah with ossobuco (Italian for ‘the bone with a hole’), i.e. crosscut veal shanks. Simply a touch of perfection with bone marrow in the middle! Having in mind Belgrade standards, the mark-up is quite good for this kind of upmarket restaurant. In any case, my impression is that the wines are better priced than the food at Terminal, although it needs to be emphasized that food prices in Belgrade have significantly increased in the past couple of months. The staff does its best to accommodate guests, albeit in a somewhat rookie fashion - trying to look formal, but not managing to subtly keep the correct distance from their guests. It is not even worth commenting anymore, but I will stubbornly repeat over and over again – neither of the wines that I had ordered by the glass were poured out in front of me. Whatever food you decide to order at the gastro bar Terminal, it is going to be a safe choice. However, if you are not part of the Serbian nouveau riche, you should opt for a takeaway, as too much exposure to their fine cuisine might prove to be terminal. Basic Info Overall Wine selection Rating Very Good Excellent Wine service Average Wine pricing €12 - €160 Wine and food pairing Very Good Photo: Facebook With a stunningly good and wildly varied menu, Terminal is likely a gastronomic game-changer for Belgrade. If you can handle the nightclubstyle swagger and service, that is… Duda & Vlada T he area surrounding St. Sava church, around Braničevska Street, has seen some growth in the last couple of years. Lately, however, it is booming. With many new cafes and restaurants and ‘opening soon’ written all over shop windows in the area, this once calm, upmarket Vračar neighbourhood is rapidly becoming one of the trendiest areas in Belgrade – for living, going out, or just taking a walk. With all the new places popping up, it is difficult to say which one is the latest, but Terminal is one of them. It opened in February with a modern, cosmopolitan, and - for Belgrade - a relatively new ‘gastro bar’ concept. Opening as early as 7.30am on weekdays and 8.00am at the weekends, Terminal serves coffee and breakfast until noon before switching over to their more elaborate dining menu. In the evening, the coach turns into a pumpkin, and it is then all about cocktails and finger food. Our visit took place at midday, so we could sample the lunch-time atmosphere. Terminal is a large venue. It occupies the ground level of a new, modern building. The ground floor is principally a bar. Up on the first floor, there’s a gallery with a restaurant setting. Both floors and the garden can accommodate up to 300 guests, and it apparently employs more than fifty staff. Terminal also has an in-house bakery and pastry shop. The interior is modern and expensive, if a bit over-the-top for our taste. It is a day and night venue, and the dual nature was obviously somewhat troublesome for interior designers. The seating plan on the ground level is interesting and informal - lounge style; the gallery upstairs is reserved for more formal dining with standard restaurant tables. During the day the décor’s dark tones, together with the colourful LED lightning, make for an odd atmosphere. Choosing a table closer to the glass façade overlooking St. Sava church and the surrounding greenery helps a lot. That is, if you make a reservation in advance; at the time of our visit, finding any table without prior reservation qualified as some sort of major victory. Terminal is a well visited place, and its crowd are young, loud and attention seeking. If you feel like checking out the latest trends in fashion, hair styles and plastic surgery, you are at the right place. The same stands for car lovers - an impressive line-up of top-of-the-range models forms on the sidewalk. Proud owners occasionally jump from their seats to handle the metropolitan police and their tow trucks, since the narrow sidewalk provides no legal parking spaces. And to show off, while they are at it. Terminal’s fare is international, with the emphasis placed on Belgraders’ favourite Mediterranean cuisine. The menu is elaborate – along with the starters, mains and desserts, there are breakfast options, pizzas, pasta and risotto sections, salads, kids menu and, finally, some interesting finger foods (unfortunately served only in the evening). The food is generally of a high standard, and we quite enjoyed it. We started with the thick tomato soup, served with mozzarella and some fresh basil leaves. Vegetable spring rolls were our waiter’s recommendation. They were also very good – golden and crispy on the outside, tender, fresh on the inside. A beautifully presented, fusion version of the Nordic dish gravlax – raw salmon cured in salt, sugar, and dill – was the most memorable starter. Thin salmon slices are served on rocket leaves, sprinkled with peach cubes, drops of citrus sauce and some freshly ground salt and pepper. We had a prior recommendation from a trustworthy source to try the ossobuco, and our waiter concurred. This Milanese speciality is made of cross-cut veal shanks braised with vegetables, white wine and broth. The menu claimed it was to be served with French-style mashed potatoes and grilled vegetables. It failed to mention the detail that makes it perfect: a small serving of bone marrow comes in a natural cup – a piece of bone, and genuine proof of the cross-cut shank. This dish was just perfect – delicious and fantastically presented. Lamb ribs were another favourite. The ribs are slowly cooked and then grilled and served with large chunks of fried potatoes in Béchamel sauce, sprinkled with rosemary. The meat was perfectly tender and rich in flavours. At the time the dish arrived at our table, the potatoes were still very nice and truly complemented the meat. But as soon as they cooled down, which happened rather quickly, they lost their texture completely and were reduced to a cantina-style potato garnish that you eventually leave on the plate. Compared to the remarkable meat dishes, the tagliatelle with asparagus was a bit of an anti-climax. The pasta was not homemade, though it was a quality ofthe-shelf product. The mixture of green asparagus, cherry tomatoes and prosciutto slices was OK but nothing to write home about. The broccoli was one too many ingredients in the mix as it slightly overran the delicate taste of the asparagus. Sometimes less is more... The portions at Terminal are on the large side, so sharing one dessert was the best we could do. We chose from our waiter’s recommendations, eventually settling on the chocolate soufflé. The soufflé itself was good enough, with some room for improvement. It was beautifully served - with a simple ice-cream made of iced crème fraiche, sprinkled with olive oil and freshly ground salt and pepper. This little, simple companion made the otherwise average soufflé quite memorable. The style of service is informal yet dramatic, obviously adapted to the clientele and the overall style, which is half way to a nightclub. The waiters can explain and recommend, but are a bit too friendly and informal. Our waiter had this odd ‘I am the man’ attitude, and as far as we could see he was no exception. Although there are many, and they move around a lot, at times it was difficult to get their attention. The style and the atmosphere of the Terminal did not steal our hearts, but the food was excellent. The ossobuco was one of the best dishes we have had in Belgrade lately, and definitely the best one in a new restaurant. We will be back for more, even if it takes some compromising on our part. Terminal Address: Bore Stankovića 17 Phone: +381 62 800 2017 Price Guide: 2000-2600 dinars [€16 €21] per person for three courses without drinks ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” RESTURANT KOVAČ modern ethno restaurant Bulevar Oslobodjenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 17 - Thursday, April 30, 2015 WHAT’S ON CLUBBING AND LIVE MUSIC FRIDAY APRIL 17th • Simian Mobile Disco, Machinedrum, Sophie, Rahmanee, Feloneezy, Magacin Depo, Travnička 3, 11pm • Codez, Bitz, Kneejah, Adoc, Dj. Lajsna, Illusion, Lomina 14, 11pm • Ronin8, Mooka, Monsun, Travnička 3, 11pm • Gemini DJs vs. SillyHeadz, Three Dots Party Factory, Dr. Milutina Ivkovića 2a, 11pm • Superplastic, Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm • House Party, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm • Brigand, Autogeni Trening, Vizelj, Božidarac, Radoslava Grujića 3, 8pm • Silva Nigra, Barshasketh, Propast, Vergel, Lavirint, Cara Dušana 13, 9pm • RE-MARK-ABLE Closing Weekend, Klub Beton, Karađorđeva 2-4, 11pm • Cinema’s Angles Night-DJ Dea, Klub Cinema, Gračanička 18, 11pm • Magla Bend, Klub Community by Kasina, Terazije 25, 10pm • Akustična svirka, Klub Čorba kafe, Braće Krsmanović 3, 10pm • Loco Band, Klub Dobrila, Dobračina 30, 10.30pm • Tamburaši, Kafana Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm SATURDAY APRIL 18th • Revels Night Vol. 2, Three Dots Party Factory, Dr. Milutina Ivkovića 2a, 11pm • Oliver Stoiljković, Klub Community by Kasina, Terazije 25, 10pm • Inspiracija Bend I Katarina Gardijan, Klub Cinema, Gračanička 18, 11pm • Alen Milivojević, Svemirska Kafana boat on Sava, 11pm • House Party, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Plastic Revival, Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm • Ladies Night/Brit’n’Bass, KST, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm • Mizar, Katabazija, Fancy Frogs, Božidarac, Radoslava Grujića 3, 8pm • RE-MARK-ABLE Closing Weekend, Klub Beton, Karađorđeva 2-4, 11pm • Profesori, Klub Dobrila, Dobračina 30, 10.30pm • Premium Band, Klub Monsun, Travnička 3, 11pm • Club House/DJs Mirko and Meex, Klub Tilt, Karađorđeva 2-4, 11pm FREE COPY Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić BIRN editorial team: Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, Gordana Andrić • Tamburaši, Kafana Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm SUNDAY APRIL 19th • Full House Band and DJ Marko, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Full House Night, Molokini, Pariska 1, 11pm • VVhile, Jewish Municipality, Kralja Petra 71, 8pm • Deer In The Headlights, Fest, Gradski Park 1, Zemun, 9pm • Laka, Mikser House, Karađorđeva 46, 9pm • Thyladomid, Sunday Beat, Nemanjina 4, 10pm • RnB Sunday, Klub Cinema, Gračanička 18, 11pm • Karaoke with Deadline band, Klub Čorba kafe, Braće Krsmanović 3, 10pm • Unplugged Duo, Klub Red Shoes, Ada Ciganlija 7, 11pm • Tamburaši, Kafana Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm • RnB, Techno and Dance Night – DJ Stefan and Dule, Kafana Premijera, Mileševska 73, 10pm • Aćim i violina, Kafana Jazbina, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 89, 10pm • RnB Night - DJ Ktordo, Witch Bar, Kumanovska 14-16, 10pm MONDAY APRIL 20th • Milan Mitrović i Aleksandra Bursać, Klub Cinema, Gračanička 18, 11pm • Unplugged Duo, Klub Red Shoes, Ada Ciganlija 7, 11pm • Friends’ Night, Tramvaj Pub, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm • Celebrities’ Humanitarian Night, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • DJ Marchez, Kafana Ona Moja, Vojvode Šupljikca 31a, 10pm • Tamburaši, Kafana Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm • Destiny Night, Witch Bar, Kumanovska 14-16, 11pm TUESDAY APRIL 21st • Mono, Helen Money, Božidarac, Radoslava Grujića 3, 8pm • Hexenschuss, kӣr, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 9pm • Acoustic Fantasy, Klub Čorba kafe, Braće Krsmanović 3, 10pm • Lili Bend, Klub Red Shoes, Ada Ciganlija 7, 11pm • Ninties’ Night, Klub Tilt, Karađorđeva 2-4, 11pm • Pop Night, Tramvaj Pub, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm • Tamburaši, Kafana Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm • Black Duo Bend, Witch Bar, Kumanovska 14-16, 11pm • Aćim i violina, Kafana Jazbina, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 89, 10pm • Todo Mundo Festival: Orchestrina Adriatica, Radio Belgrade, Hilandarska 2, 9pm • Duo Rouz Bend, Klub Red Shoes, Ada Ciganlija 7, 11pm • Tamburaši, Kafana Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm • DJ Ascia, Kontra Bar, Strahinjića bana 59, 10pm • Witches’ Games, Witch Bar, Kumanovska 14-16, 10pm • Tamburaši, Kafana Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm • RnB, Techno and Dance Night – DJ Stefan and Dule, Kafana Premijera, Mileševska 73, 10pm • Aćim i violina, Kafana Jazbina, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 89, 10pm • RnB Night - DJ Ktordo, Witch Bar, Kumanovska 14-16, 10pm THURSDAY APRIL 23rd • Unplugged Duo, Klub Red Shoes, Ada Ciganlija 7, 11pm • Celebrities’ Humanitarian Night, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • DJ Marchez, Kafana Ona Moja, Vojvode Šupljikca 31a, 10pm • Tamburaši, Kafana Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm • Destiny Night, Witch Bar, Kumanovska 14-16, 11pm • Jumbus, Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm • RnB and Hip Hop Night, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Pink Floyd Night, KST, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm • Diva Demolition, Studentski Grad Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 179, 8pm • Raul Midon, BitefArtCafe, Mitropolita Petra 8, 10pm • Tamburaši, Kafana Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm • DJ Gosha, Witch Bar, Kumanovska 14-16, 10pm • Beer Night, Kontra Bar, Strahinjića bana 59, 10pm FRIDAY APRIL 24th • D-Nox & Beckers, Zwein, The Tube, Simina 21, 11pm • Rodhad, Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 11pm • Brother’s Yard aka Peter Dundov, Re:Publika, Pariska 1, 11pm • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm • Superplastic, Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm • Todo Mundo Festival: Belo Platno, Hanggai, Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, 8pm • Jarboli, Crvi, Božidarac, Radoslava Grujića 3, 8pm • Tamburaši, Kafana Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm • John Digweed, Hangar, Dunavska, Port of Belgrade, 11pm • Dj Barely Legal, Monsun, Travnička 3, 11pm • Dharma Road To Connection Festival, Sioux, Skadarska 40a, 11pm • Revival, Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm • Eighties, KST, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm • Wovenhand, Marriages, Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, 8pm • Todo Mundo Festival: Tutti World Music Orchestra, Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, 8pm • Xanax, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 9pm • Tamburaši, Kafana Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm SUNDAY APRIL 26 • Shake That Thing, KST, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm • Ike & Prema, Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm • Disco House, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Todo Mundo Fest: Arhai, Muzsikas, Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, 8pm • Vlada and Bajka, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm • Unplugged Duo, Klub Red Shoes, Ada Ciganlija 7, 11pm th Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović Phone: +381 11 4030 302 Subscription & Distribution: Goran Knezevic +381 11 4030 303 T R AT T O R I A PIZZERIA [email protected] Printing: POLITIKA štamparija d.o.o. ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Circulation: 4,000 • Lili Bend, Klub Red Shoes, Ada Ciganlija 7, 11pm • Tamburaši, Kafana Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm • Black Duo Bend, Witch Bar, Kumanovska 14-16, 11pm • Aćim i violina, Kafana Jazbina, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 89, 10pm THURSDAY APRIL 30th • Illusion Quest – Open Air Psychedelic Festival, Ada Ciganlija, Makiš side, 12pm • RnB and Hip Hop Night, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Jumbus, Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm • Ana Ćurčin, Studentski Grad Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 179, 8pm • Ozric Tentacles, Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 9pm • Marčelo and Napeti Quintet, Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, 9pm • Tamburaši, Kafana Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm KOLARAC PROGRAMME MONDAY, April 20th Concert Hall, 8pm Berlin Philharmonic Sextet Cycle: The Great Music Performers Programme: Mozart, Rossini Production: Music Centre Ticket Price: 1, 800, 2, 000 dinars TUESDAY, April 21st Concert Hall, 8pm Rudra Veena Night Production: Embassy of India Admission free WEDNESDAY, April 22nd Music Gallery, 6pm Soloists: Sofia di Somma, violin Iskra Pečvari, piano Programme: Despić, Grieg, Slavenski Production: Music Centre Admission free Nebojsina 8 011/3863-999 [email protected] www.restoranamici.rs Dvořák Production: Belgrade Philharmonic SATURDAY, April 25th Concert Hall, 8pm RTS Symphonic Orchestra Conductor: Stanko Jovanović Soloists: Una Stanić, violin Irena Josifovska, violoncello Production: RTS Music Production SUNDAY, April 26th Concert Hall, 11am Piano Duo Altro Modo Cycle: Kolarac podium of chamber music Adela Karasi Todorović and Nataša Špaček Production: Music Centre Admission free WEDNESDAY, April 22 Concert Hall, 8pm Artis Quartet Vienna Soloist: Anika Vavić, piano Production: CEBEF (Belgrade Festivals Centre) TUESDAY, April 28th Music Gallery, 6pm Art Fantasy, Public Show Recording Author: Marina Stefanović Production: Music Centre Admission free FRIDAY, April 24th Concert Hall, 8pm Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Conductor: Eiji Oue Soloist: Marc Coppey, violoncello Programme: Mahler, Prokofiev, WEDNESDAY, April 29th Music Gallery, 6pm Cycle: Music Workshop Soloist: Ana Rašković, piano Production: Music Centre Admission free nd [email protected] [email protected] TUESDAY APRIL 28th • Ike & Prema, Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm • Disco House, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Sonic Jesus, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 9pm • Duo Rouz Bend, Klub Red Shoes, Ada Ciganlija 7, 11pm • Tamburaši, Kafana Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm • DJ Ascia, Kontra Bar, Strahinjića bana 59, 10pm • Witches’ Games, Witch Bar, Kumanovska 14-16, 10pm SATURDAY APRIL 25th WEDNESDAY APRIL 22 nd MONDAY APRIL 27th WEDNESDAY APRIL 29th BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 17 - Thursday, April 30, 2015 13 ON THE SPOT Albanian-Serb Romeo and Juliet come to town T Photo courtesy of Radionica Integracije he premiere of the highly anticipated play Romeo and Juliet, a joint production by Belgrade-based Radionica Integracije and Pristinabased Qendra Multimedia, took place on April 5th at the National Theatre. The play, where Romeo and the Montagues are played by Kosovo Albanians, and Juliet and the Capulets by Serbs, aims to foster dialogue and reconciliation, and is performed in two languages – Serbian and Albanian. The theatre’s main stage was fully-packed, and the play itself well received by the Belgrade audience. WWI Russia on display Top actors gather at theatre’s 67th anniversary T he Yugoslav Drama Theatre, which was established on April 3rd,1948, recently celebrated its anniversary. For the occasion, the best theatre’s actors and members of the staff received awards for their contribution to the life of the theatre. Among the awarded actors were Vojin Ćetković, Nebojša Glogovac, Vojislav Brajović and Milena Marković. Photo courtesy of Radionica Integracije T The theatre staff who were given the award. Photo:Facebook he exhibition “Look War in the Eyes,” showcasing films, photographs and documents from Russia during World War I, officially opened at the Historical Museum of Serbia on April 8th. Among many state officials and numerous visitors was the Russian Ambassador to Serbia, Aleksandar Chepurin. Aleksandar Chepurin, the Russian ambassador. Photo by Beta Birthday fun at Cineplexx cinemas C Photo courtesy of Ušće Cineplexx ineplexx cinemas at the Ušće Shopping Centre, Delta City and the Plaza Mall in Kragujevac celebrated their birthdays on April 14th with all-day activities for children and a treat for all visitors – lower prices and a special birthday menu. According to the organizers, more than 15, 000 people came to the three cinemas. Photo courtesy of Ušće Cineplexx 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 17 - Thursday, April 30, 2015 GOING OUT Keeping it real: Belgrade’s original indie beer store Majstor Za Pivo was never your average pub and its exclusive tastings and nanobrewery offering specialist brews to order will keep it at the heart of Belgrade’s growing craft beer culture. David GALIĆ M ajstor Za Pivo roughly translates to ‘Beer Master’. It is one of the most unique places you’ll visit in Belgrade if beer is your thing. Origi- nally, Majstor Za Pivo was a store but it was never just any old store. It was the first place in Belgrade where people who wanted to get into home brewing could buy all the equipment and raw materials they needed. After successfully helping to launch craft beer culture in Belgrade, the store branched out and moved to lower Dorćol, where they remain to this day. The location is, frankly, pretty out of the way. Even though Dorćol is considered one of Belgrade’s most central districts, Majstor Za Pivo is located at the far end of the neighbourhood, in a very quiet part of town. As far as I know, there’s only one bus that goes all the way down there. Otherwise it’s a 20-minute walk all the way down Francuska and Žorža Klemansoa Street from Republic Square. But that doesn’t really pose a problem for the establishment because Majstor Za Pivo has a very specific kind of clientele. While you can visit city centre bars like Samo Pivo, Miners Pub, and Kabinet Pub to taste Serbian craft beers and brews from around the world, Majstor Za Pivo is much more than just a brew pub. It also sells a huge assortment of beer for home consumption. So if you prefer Photo: Facebook to enjoy a hard-to-find imported beer in the comfort of your own home rather than in a smoky bar, you can head over to Majstor Za Pivo and grab some brew dogs to go. Granted, there are a few more places around the city that offer this type of service as well. There’s Pivopija, with locations in Zemun and New Belgrade, and a couple pubs in Vračar that also double as beer stores. However, Majstor Za Pivo does not stop there. Ever mindful of their roots, they still sell home brewing equipment and ingredients. And that’s not all! Majstor Za Pivo is the only place in Belgrade that doubles as a nano-brewery. The bar consists of a few tables and shelves loaded with beer, giving you the feeling that you are drinking in a store, which you kind of are. But behind the bar, there is a gallery where the brewing equipment is held. And in this area, the owners of Majstor Za Pivo have set up a working nano-brewery. What does this mean for you? This means that you can pay them to make a special beer for you. For example, if you tasted a beer while travelling the world that you loved but can’t buy in Serbia, you can turn to Majstor Za Pivo. They can find a recipe for the beer that you love so much and brew a clone batch for you, if you are willing to pay. The price for this service is a little steep but it is the only place in the city offering this service. Another cool Majstor Za Pivo offering is their exclusive tasting parties. Every now and then, they hold very small and intimate beer tasting nights that are usually thematic – either related to beer from a certain country or a style of beer. Usually, only about ten people can sign up to participate in these events, which is what makes them pretty special. So if you are a true beer enthusiast, getting into one of these tasting sessions could be something of interest to you. The best thing about Majstor Za Pivo is that they are doing things no one else is in Belgrade while continuing to play a huge role in finally creating a genuine beer culture in Belgrade, which has grown tremendously over the past couple of years. Majstor Za Pivo Address: Žorža Klemansoa 18 Working hours: Monday-Friday, 12am-10pm Contact: +381 11 241 91 61 Serbian, Portuguese stars play for flood victims Robbie Williams announces open-air show erbian ethno music star Slobodan Trkulja is teaming up with Mariza, one of the biggest stars of Portuguese fado music to raise money for victims of the 2014 floods in Serbia. Trkulja’s group Balkanopolis has been on the scene since 1997, creating a sound that combines traditional Balkan music with contemporary ideas. The joint concert with Mariza will take place at the Kombank Arena on May 15th. It’s the second charity show for flood victims to be organised by Trkulja; the first was held right after the natural disaster last year. This follow-up show a year later is intended to show that people who are still in need have not been forgotten. Tickets will cost between €7 and €17, depending on seating. elgrade doesn’t often get visits from top-tier pop stars, but veteran British singer Robbie Williams will be making a stop here at Ušce Park on July 17th on his ‘Let Me Entertain You’ tour. Tickets for the event are already going fast with people lining up in droves at the Ušce shopping mall last week to get earlybird ticket prices. Base-level tickets cost about €35 - according to management, the lowest ticket prices on the former Take That singer’s European tour. The show might not sell out because the Ušce park has a capacity of about 30,000, but it’s definitely going to be tough to get tickets close to the stage. Serbian rapper Marčelo presents new quintet Marčelo has been one of the most unique voices in Serbian hip-hop for over a decade, not only as a rapper but as a novelist as well, attracting acclaim for his ‘conscious’, politically-charged rap. At the show at Dom Omladine on April 30th, he will introduce his new band the Napeti Quintet and promote his new album ‘Napet Show’. Tickets will cost €5. Ozric Tentacles take a trip to Drugstore Ozric Tentacles, probably the most important psychedelic rock group of the last 20 or 30 years, will be performing in Belgrade for the first time on April 30th. The British band that formed at a hippie festival at Stonehenge in 1983 have become space-rock veterans with a dedicated following worldwide. Support comes from Belgrade psychrockers Temple of the Smoke, who are very obviously influenced by the British band. The show takes place at Drugstore and tickets will be €8 at the door. S Italian psychedelia rocks KC Grad Italian rockers Sonic Jesus have been billed as the love child of Spaceman 3 and the Velvet Underground and are considered to be one of the leading names in contemporary psychedelic rock. They will be performing on April 29th at KC Grad. Tickets will be €8 at the door. B Japanese post-rockers take bigger stage After a successful first show a couple of years ago, Japanese post-rock band Mono return to Belgrade, this time to play a bigger venue, Božidarac in Vračar, on April 24th. They will be accompanied by cellist Helen Money and will be promoting their two recent simultaneously-released albums ‘The Last Dawn’ and ‘Rays of Darkness’. Tickets will be €15 at the door. Doom rock legends at Dom Omladine Apart from Black Sabbath, Saint Vitus are probably the most prominent pioneering band in the doom metal genre. They’ve been playing their Sabbathinspired, slow and heavy rock since 1979 and are now playing Belgrade with their original line-up including singer Scott Reagers. The show is on June 7th at Dom Omladine; tickets are on sale already for €18. BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 17 - Thursday, April 30, 2015 15 SPORT Football violence sees UEFA ‘mulling Croat and Serb ban’ Ivan Ćurković, vice-president of the Serbian Football Association, claims UEFA is to ban Serbia and Croatia from its competitions over hooliganism fears. C roatia and Serbia face UEFA and FIFA tournament bans following racist and violent incidents during international football matches held in the Balkans, says the vice-president of Serbia’s Football Association (FSS). “I have good information and I assure you, both Croatia and Serbia are to be suspended from UEFA and FIFA competitions. And this is for three to five years,” Ćurković said during an interview with Croatian Jutarnji List published on April 12th. Ć u rkov i ć said that UEFA - the Union of European Football Associations – wants to see an end to the violence and hooliganism that followed matches in which Balkan countries participated. According to Ćurković, that would require government intervention. “[National football] associations are powerless. Only the state can deal with offenders, if it wants, of course,” he said. Nonetheless, UEFA is, he insisted, determined to stamp out racism and the use of fireworks and flares during matches at football stadiums. “Football is spinning billions and, of course, the leaders of the European Association will not allow torches, wild behaviour and spectacular fireworks,” Ćurković said. Ćurković, a Serbian former footballer, has been vice-president of the FSS since 2009. His comments came after a series of incidents shook Balkan football. On April 8th, UEFA decided to punish both Croatia and Montenegro over its fans’ racist behaviour and the lighting of torches at their stadiums. During the Croatia-Norway match played in Zagreb on March 28th, Croatian fans lit torches and chanted nationalist and racist slogans. UEFA then ordered the Croatian team to play its next Euro 2016 qualifier home game – against Italy on June 12th - behind closed doors and, therefore, without supporters. The Croatian Football Association was also fined €55,000. RUSSIAN GOALKEEPER HOSPITALIZED Just one day earlier, another Euro 2016 qualifier – this time between Russia and Montenegro in Podgorica - was abandoned after Montenegrin fans hit Russian goalkeeper Igor Akinfeev with a flare. Akinfeev was taken to hospital suffering concussion and burns to the neck following the incident. Both Croatia and Serbia are to be suspended from UEFA and FIFA competitions.” Ivan Ćurković vice-president of the Serbian Football Association German referee Deniz Aytekin eventually called off the match after fans repeatedly endangered the safety of players by throwing objects onto the pitch, including coins, a lighter and, according to some reports, a knife. Ćurković says UEFA won’t allow flares and rowdiness during matches. UEFA responded by awarding Russia a 3-0 win over Montenegro. Montenegro will also have to play its two next home qualifier games in an empty stadium and the national football federation was fined €50,000. In October last year, UEFA sanctioned both Albania and Serbia for the violence that erupted during the first football match ever held between the two countries. During the match in Belgrade, a small drone bearing a map of ‘Greater Albania’ flew over the pitch, igniting an already highly-tense atmosphere. After Serbian player Stefan Mitrović pulled down the banner a scuffle broke out between the two teams as Albanian players grabbed the flag back from Mitrović. The scuffle snowballed into an allout brawl as a group of Serbian fans invaded the pitch and attacked Albanian players, prompting British referee Martin Atkinson to suspend the match. Videos and pictures show Serbian fans attacking Albanian players, throwing punches and kicks, as the Serbian players try to protect them. Photo by Beta Serbian fans also threw torches and lighters at the Albanian players as they left the field. Earlier in the match, Serbian fans booed the Albanian national anthem and chanted bloodthirsty, racist slogans, such as “Kill, slaughter, so that the Šiptar [a pejorative term for Albanians] do not exist.” Both Albania and Serbia were fined €100,000 each. UEFA awarded the match 3-0 to Serbia, but the country was ordered to hold its next two UEFA competition matches as host team behind closed doors. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 17 - Thursday, April 30, 2015 Map of City Centre ADVERT Find your copy of Belgrade Insight here: Gourmet heaven is called “ZAVIČAJ”! 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