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Easy-sew wrap skirt
From Sew Beautiful magazine
How to make a reversible wrap skirt from a dress pattern.
By Janet Gilbert
Follow along as Janet shares how to make an elastic-waist, reversible
wrap skirt using the “Wrap Dress” pattern from the Sew Beautiful
pattern collection from Martha Pullen Company.
This article is a free tutorial in conjunction with the article “Skirting
Around” – A pictorial featuring six skirt designs you can make yourself from the Sew Beautiful Fall Issue #144. The A-line skirt pattern
is the featured free skirt pattern included on the free pattern pullout
section of that issue.
PREPARATION
1. Trace the back and front skirt patterns from the Wrap Dress
pattern. Transfer all markings. For ease in construction, clearly
label the top of each pattern piece.
2. Slice the patterns on the “lengthen and shorten here” line.
Shorten the pattern to your desired length. The skirt shown
was shortened to 14 inches.
3. To make the skirt reversible, trace the shortened front skirt
pattern again. Turn this copy over to create a mirror image.
On this pattern remove 2 inches from bottom curved edge.
Mark this pattern as the “Flounced Front”. Mark the other,
longer front pattern pieces as the “Plain Front”.
MATERIALS LIST
“Wrap Dress” pattern from the Sew Beautiful
pattern collection (size 8 shown).
2 yards each of two contrasting fabrics
(more or less will be needed depending on
skirt length and size of pattern).
Spaghetti bias (trim).
3/4 inch elastic for back waistband
2 buttons for waistband
Twin needle and thread to match spaghetti
bias trim
CONSTRUCTION
Cutting and Marking
1. Select two contrasting or coordinating fabrics. Pin the fabrics
with right sides together and cut out both front skirts and the
skirt backs.
2. Designate one print as print 1 and the other as print 2.
3. Before you unpin the fabric from the patterns, place a small
safety pin on the waistline of each fabric pattern piece.
4. Cut out a 3-inch flounce out of each fabric (see 7 Great Tips
for Sewing a Flounce Ruffle below). Stay stitch the inside
edges
© 2012 Sew Beautiful Magazine • www.SewBeautifulmag.com PRINT #1 SKIRT ASSEMBLY
1. Sew the inner edge of the Print 1 flounce to the Print 1
skirt front bottom edge with right sides together using
a 1/2 seam allowance. Press the seam up. Remove any
staystitching that may show.
2. Sew each skirt front (plain and flounced) to each side of
skirt back. Press seams open.
3. Along the bottom edge of the skirt, measure up 2-½
inches and mark. This will be your placement line for the
spaghetti bias.
4. Glue baste trim in place then stitch to skirt with a twin
needle (fig 1).
REVERSIBLE SKIRT ASSEMBLY
1. Pin both the two skirts with right sides together and
stitch only the bottom edge of the back and plain front
pieces together (skirt is still open at the waistline and at
the flounce front)(fig. 3). Trim and notch seams. Turn
right side out and press.
2. Pin the Print 2 flounce to the Print 1 flounce along the
outer edge with right sides together. Stitch together along
the bottom edge with a ¼ inch seam allowance (fig. 4).
Trim and notch seam. Turn right side out and press.
3. Tuck the top raw edge of Print 2 flounce under Print 2
front skirt piece. Turn the 1/4 inch seam allowance of skirt
under and hand slip stitch along edge of trim (fig. 5).
1.
4. Baste stitch skirt together along top waist edge within
seam allowance.
PRINT #2 SKIRT ASSEMBLY
Repeat these steps with the skirt pieces from Print #2 except
for sewing the flounce (fig. 2).
1.
1/4” Seam allowance
Top edge
Top edge
1.
Back
Ride Side
Print #1
Plain front
2.
Flounce
front
Spaghetti
bias
2.
Plain
front
Right Side
Print #2
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nc
u
Flo
FIGURE 1
FIGURE 2
1/4
” Se
2.
am
allo
wan
ce
Clip seam
allowances
here
3.
3.
Ride side
Print 2
Seam folded out
Print 2 skirt (RS)
3.
3.
Print 1 skirt
(WS)
nly
o
re
e
hh
Stitch outer
edge
tc
Sti
Print 1
Skirt (RS)
4.
Back
4.
FIGURE 3
5.
Trim
6.
Print 1 skirt
Place seam allowance
under Print 2 skirt
4.
Bottom Seam
Print 2
Flounce (RS)
Turn end back 1/2”
FIGURE 4
Print 2
Skirt (RS)
Fold
under
Flip Print 2
flounce over
RS out
Hand stitch
FIGURE 5
© 2012 Sew Beautiful Magazine • www.SewBeautifulmag.com WAISTBAND
Create a 1-inch (finished width) waistband out of contrasting
or matching fabric.
1. Measure the width of the front skirts and the width of
the back skirt waistlines. Add a ½ inch seam allowance
to each end. (I made my waistband with a side seam.
Waistband could also be made as one continuous length.)
2. Cut each waistband pattern piece 3-inches x this
7.
measurement.
(1 inch (desired finish width) x 2 inches
(fold over) + 1 inch seam allowances = 3 inches)
3. Interface the front waistband pieces.
4. Stitch front bands to back at side seams.
5. Stitch one edge of waistband to skirt leaving 1/2 inch
seams on each end extending skirt edges.
6. Before completing waistband, create two ties: cut two
1-1/2-inch wide strips from fabric width (selvage to
selvage). Fold strips in half lengthwise and stitch a 1/4inch seam along long edge and one end.
7. Turn right side out and stitch to each end of skirt
waistband while band is unfolded.
8. Press under raw edge of waistband 1/2 inch. Stitch
each end with right sides together and ties sandwiched
between. Flip ties out and waistband right side out (fig. 6).
Wrap band over waist seam and hand slip stitch fold edge
in place, leaving a 1-inch opening at each side seam for
inserting elastic.
9. Topstitch waistband 1/8 inch from the top edge.
10. Insert 3/4 inch elastic into the back waistband channel.
5.
Secure ends at each side seam.
11. Stitch a buttonhole in front waistband next to right side
seam to insert one tie strip. Mark and stitch a buttonhole
and button to secure front waistband (fig. 7).
6.
FOR SEWING A FLOUNCE RUFFLE
1. A flounce is sometimes called a Flat Ruffle
or a Frill. Even though it uses more fabric, a
flounce can bring a more elegant look to a
garment because it creates the twirl effect
without adding the bulk of a gathered ruffle.
2. All circles are not created equal when it
comes to a flounce. The smaller the inside circle, the more flounce there is to your flounce.
8.
Flounce
3. Several flounces stitched together work better and use less fabric than one large flounce.
4. To make a flounce, find something round for
the template like a dinner plate or a quilting
stencil or compass. Trace each circle one at a
time.
5. Mark6. in the center circle the direction of the
straight of the grain. In order for the flounce
to hang smoothly the seam lines need to be
on the grain line or true bias.
6. A perfect flounce is one without any stretching or puckers. This is achieved by stay stitching the inside seam.
7. The outer, raw edge is best finished with a
narrow hem or a serged and rolled hem.
Tie
Waistband
7 Great Tips
Skirt
Flounce
7.
Buttonhole
Tie Print 2
Button
FIGURE 6
Print 1
8.
FIGURE 7
© 2012 Sew Beautiful Magazine • www.SewBeautifulmag.com