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Assembly Guide
M
Lacy Sailor Dress by Gail Doane: Pattern, layout and yardage charts and
cutting guide; finishing instructions for skirt and dress
P
Patterns & Templates
Mastering Wendy’s Madeira Hem by Wendy Schoen: Ethereal Christening
Gown skirt embroidery template
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2013, ISSUE #150
Appliquéd Heirloom Christmas Tree by Trisha Smith: Christmas tree
template
Elegant Leaf Table Runner by Patty Dunn: Table runner and leaf templates
1a
1b
LACY SAILOR DRESS BY GAIL DOANE
SKIRT AND FINISHING INSTRUCTIONS
0
1"
Please use this scale to verify
that you are printing at 100%
Oct./ Nov. 2013, Issue #150
Appliquéd Heirloom Christmas Tree by Trisha Smith: Christmas tree template
Elegant Leaf Table Runner by Patty Dunn: Table runner and leaf templates
Happy Scarecrows by Gwen Milner: Step-by-step cable count
SOFT PLEATING SKIRT
FRONT AND BACK
TIP: The silk dupioni does not
gather up very nicely across
the width. While the skirt can
be gathered and attached to
the bodice, I chose an
alternate method of soft
pleating the skirt to fit the
bodice, eliminating the need
for gathers.
1. Refer to skirt pleating
templates (found on
centerfold) to mark skirt front,
right skirt back (lap side), and
left skirt back (under lap side)
for soft pleating. All pleats
fold away from center front or
center back. On skirt back,
keep right skirt back placket
pinned in place with
SKIRT SIDE SEAMS
French seam skirt front to
skirt back taking out a total of
3⁄8 inch for each seam
A. Fold ¼” under
Placket
A. Mark
allowance. Press encased
seams toward skirt back.
When working with silk, it is
helpful to use a zigzag stitch
(W=2.0; L=1.5) for first
stitching pass to help reduce
possibility of raveling.
other side, increasing stitch
length to 1.5 and keeping
seam allowance at 1⁄8 inch
(fig. 2).
4. Press under ¼ inch on
remaining placket edge. Press
seam allowance toward
placket.
5. Place folded edge of
placket just over seamline
from Step 3. Working from
wrong side, topstitch right
next to folded placket edge
through all layers (fig. 3).
6. Flip placket to inside with
right sides of placket facing
together. Stitch diagonally
across lower end of placket
(fig. 4).
7. Fold under an additional ½
inch on right side (only) of
skirt placket. This additional
fold realigns center back of
skirt to center back of bodice.
Flip placket to inside,
RS together
Stitch
Skirt
back
WS
5”
Skirt
back
WS
B. Stitch
and slash
B. Fold edge
just over
seamline
Skirt
back
WS
Pivot
slightly
Stitch diagonally
across lower end
C. Topstitch
right next to
edge
2”
FIGURE 1
FIGURE 2
Skirt
FIGURE 3
FIGURE 4
additional ½-inch fold in
place. Start measuring to mark
pleats from that point. On left
skirt back, start measuring for
pleats at finished placket
edge.
2. Use pins to mark beginning
point and end point of each
pleat. Pins pleats securely in
place. Depending on size, it
may be necessary to adjust
two pleats closest to side
seams up or down a bit in
depth. Use bodice front and
bodice back pattern pieces to
check that finished pleated
width of skirt front and two
skirt backs will fit actual
bodice. Try to force last pleat
closest to side seam on all
pieces to end at side seamline
of bodice even if it makes it
necessary to adjust depth of
last one or two pleats closest
to side seams. Soft pleating is
not an exact science – don’t
worry if all the pleats are not
a perfect uniform depth. The
lace/organza belt covers over
seamline between bodice and
skirt.
3. Finished pleated dress front
and dress back.
1d
ATTACHING SKIRT TO
BODICE
1. Right sides together and
raw edges even, pin pleated
skirt to bodice, matching
center fronts, side seams and
finished placket edges to
foldlines on bodice backs.
Take care to keep bodice
lining out of way.
2. Stitch using a ½-inch seam
allowance. Stitch a second
time ¼ inch away in seam
allowance and trim all layers
close to second stitching line.
3. Fold under ½-inch on
lower edge of bodice lining
and press. Hand sew bodice
lining in place encasing seam
allowance. Lower raw edge of
front inset is also folded
under and encased in this
seam.
1e
1f
1g
HEM FINISH
NOTE: The 1-inch tuck,
machine-sewn hem requires a
6-inch hem allowance.
1. Fold under 4 inches on
lower edge of skirt; press.
Fold under ¼-inch along raw
hem edge, machine stitch 1⁄8
inch from top edge of hem.
2. Fold under hem again, this
time 4¾ inches; press. To
form tuck, stitch 1 inch from
folded edge. The raw edge of
hem is encased in this tuck.
Press tuck down toward lower
edge of skirt.
left bodice back along
center-back line.
3. Make one horizontal
buttonhole on each cuff in
marked position. Use ‘Stitch ‘n
Tear as above. Stitch a button
in place in corresponding
position on underlay side of
cuff.
4. Hand tack center point of
an 18-inch length of
5⁄8-inch-wide silk satin ribbon
to bottom of “V” on front
inset.
5. Stitch a 1-inch
mother-of-pearl button (with
large open holes) in place
over hand-tacked ribbon.
6. Draw ends of ribbon
through holes of the button
and tie in a bow.
1h
Small
Large
FINISHING UP
1. Make four horizontal
buttonholes on right bodice
back in marked positions. Use
a piece of Stitch ‘n Tear held
on backside of fabric for
stability when stitching
buttonholes. Remove Stitch n’
Tear when buttonholes are
completed. Cut buttonholes
open.
2. Stitch size 18 buttons to
corresponding positions of
2a
2b
2c
2d
2e
2f
2g
2h
3a
3b
3c
3d
3e
3f
3g
3h
4a
4b
4c
4d
4e
4f
4g
4h
5c
5d
5e
5f
5g
5h
Sash
7”
12”
12”
Inset
12”
Inset
12”
7”
Belt
Belt
Belt
selvage
2”
Belt
Inset
7”
2” 2”
16”
7”
Inset
Lacy Sailor Dress - Cutting Layout
54” Wide Silk Organza
54” width
20”
Collar
Block
10 3/4 ”
Sash
5a
LACY SAILOR DRESS BY GAIL DOANE
YARDAGE & CUTTING GUIDE
45-inch Silk Dupioni
Skirt Front and Back
Cut Two:
Size 4 – 26-inches (l) x 44-inches (w)
Size 5 – 27 ½ -inches (l) x 44-inches (w)
Size 6 - 29-inches (l) x 44-inches (w)
Size 7 – 30 ¼ -inches (l) x 44-inches (w)
Size 8 – 31 ½-inches (l) x 44-inches (w)
5b
on
ve
ee Bias
Sl
on
ve
ee Bias
Sl
Lacy Sailor Dress - Cutting Layout
45” Wide Cranberry Silk Dupioni
45” width
Silk Dupioni Yardage
Dress
45” (115cm) Fabric W/WO Nap
4 = 3 YD (2.8 M)
5 = 3-1/8 YD (2.9 M)
6 = 3-1/4 YD (3 M)
7 = 3-3/8 YD (3.1 M)
8 = 31/2 YD (3.2 M)
Skirt
Front
31.5
Skirt Placket – 8 ½-inch (l) x 1 ¾-inch (w)
Sleeve Plackets – 6 ½-inch (l) x 1 ¾-inch (w)
54-inch Ecru Silk Organza
Sashes
Cut two:
Size 4 – 36 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w)
Size 5 – 37 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w)
Size 6 – 38 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w)
Size 7 – 39 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w)
Size 8 – 40 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w)
Collar Block – 16-inch (l) x 20-inch (w)
Skirt
Front
31.5
selvage
Piping bias – 14-inch (l) x 1-inch (w)
selvage
14”
Bodice
Back
Bodice
Back
14” Bodice
Front
3” Cuff
Cut
Skirt
Placket
&
Sleeve
Plackets
here
Bodice
Front
Cuff
Cuff
Cuff
Cut four:
Inset Block – 12-inch (l) x 7-inch (w)
Pi
pi
Bi ng
as
as
Please respect the copyright by not
forwarding or distributing this document.
23”
ve
ee as
Sl n Bi
O
Cut four:
Front Belt Block– 2-inch (l) x 18-inch (w)
ve
ee
Sl n Bi
O
© SEW BEAUTIFUL
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Lacy Sailor Dress by Gail Doane: Pattern, layout and yardage charts and cutting guide;
finishing instructions for skirt and dress
Mastering Wendy’s Madeira Hem by Wendy Schoen: Ethereal Christening Gown skirt
embroidery template
SKIRT BACK PLACKET
1. Fold skirt back in half and
mark a 4-inch line down
center back. Cut one
2-inch(w) x 5-inch (l)
rectangle of fusible interfacing.
Fuse to wrong side of skirt
back directly over marked
slash line. Slash along line
through both fabric and fused
interfacing. This helps stabilize
placket area especially when
working with silk (fig. 1).
2. Cut placket strip 1¾ (w) x
8½ inches (l).
3. Right sides together and
working with skirt side up,
straight stitch (L=1.5) placket
to skirt using a 1/8-inch seam
allowance. When you get to
within 1 inch from lowest
slash point, decrease stitch
length to 1.0 and allow skirt
seam allowance to decrease
down to almost nothing at
lowest slash point. Keeping
sewing machine needle down,
pivot slightly at lowest slash
point and proceed stitching up
selvage
1 | When preparing to print
the PDF, make sure that you
are printing it at 100% and
that there is no scaling. Check
the settings for page scaling
(should be “None”) and check
the preview to make sure that
you will be printing at full size.
Make sure that the box labeled
“Auto-Rotate and Center” is
unchecked (instructions apply
specifically to Adobe Reader;
if using another PDF reader,
check for similar settings).
2 | To ensure that the pattern
has printed at the correct scale,
check the size of the SCALE
DIAGRAM. It should measure
1" × 1".
3 | To begin assembling the
pattern, cut off or fold the
dotted margin around each
page.
4 | The pages are numbered in
rows, so the first row of pages
is numbered 1a, 1b, 1c, etc.
Line up the rows and match
the dotted lines together so
they overlap. Tape the pages
together. Use the illustrated
guide to match each piece.
Once the pattern is complete,
find your size, pin the pattern
to the fabric, and follow the
coordinating line to cut out or
trace the pattern.
1c
1"
Patterns & Templates
10 3/4 ”
ASSEMBLING FULL-SIZE
PATTERN PRINTOUT
sewbeautifulmag.com
1a
1"
Patterns & Templates
Oct./ Nov. 2013, Issue #150
Lacy Sailor Dress by Gail Doane: Pattern, layout and yardage charts and cutting guide;
finishing instructions for skirt and dress
Mastering Wendy’s Madeira Hem by Wendy Schoen: Ethereal Christening Gown skirt
embroidery template
Appliquéd Heirloom Christmas Tree by Trisha Smith: Christmas tree template
Elegant Leaf Table Runner by Patty Dunn: Table runner and leaf templates
Happy Scarecrows by Gwen Milner: Step-by-step cable count
0
1"
Please use this scale to verify
that you are printing at 100%
1b
LACY SAILOR DRESS BY GAIL DOANE
SKIRT AND FINISHING INSTRUCTIONS
SKIRT BACK PLACKET
1. Fold skirt back in half and
mark a 4-inch line down
center back. Cut one
2-inch(w) x 5-inch (l)
rectangle of fusible interfacing.
Fuse to wrong side of skirt
back directly over marked
slash line. Slash along line
through both fabric and fused
interfacing. This helps stabilize
placket area especially when
working with silk (fig. 1).
2. Cut placket strip 1¾ (w) x
8½ inches (l).
3. Right sides together and
working with skirt side up,
straight stitch (L=1.5) placket
to skirt using a 1/8-inch seam
allowance. When you get to
within 1 inch from lowest
slash point, decrease stitch
length to 1.0 and allow skirt
seam allowance to decrease
down to almost nothing at
lowest slash point. Keeping
sewing machine needle down,
pivot slightly at lowest slash
point and proceed stitching up
other side, increasing stitch
length to 1.5 and keeping
seam allowance at 1⁄8 inch
(fig. 2).
4. Press under ¼ inch on
remaining placket edge. Press
seam allowance toward
placket.
5. Place folded edge of
placket just over seamline
from Step 3. Working from
wrong side, topstitch right
next to folded placket edge
through all layers (fig. 3).
6. Flip placket to inside with
right sides of placket facing
together. Stitch diagonally
across lower end of placket
(fig. 4).
7. Fold under an additional ½
inch on right side (only) of
skirt placket. This additional
fold realigns center back of
skirt to center back of bodice.
SKIRT SIDE SEAMS
French seam skirt front to
skirt back taking out a total of
3⁄8 inch for each seam
SOFT PLEATING SKIRT
FRONT AND BACK
TIP: The silk dupioni does not
gather up very nicely across
the width. While the skirt can
be gathered and attached to
the bodice, I chose an
alternate method of soft
pleating the skirt to fit the
bodice, eliminating the need
for gathers.
1. Refer to skirt pleating
templates (found on
centerfold) to mark skirt front,
right skirt back (lap side), and
left skirt back (under lap side)
for soft pleating. All pleats
fold away from center front or
center back. On skirt back,
keep right skirt back placket
pinned in place with
A. Fold ¼” under
Placket
A. Mark
allowance. Press encased
seams toward skirt back.
When working with silk, it is
helpful to use a zigzag stitch
(W=2.0; L=1.5) for first
stitching pass to help reduce
possibility of raveling.
Flip placket to inside,
RS together
Stitch
Skirt
back
WS
5”
B. Stitch
and slash
Skirt
back
WS
Pivot
slightly
2”
FIGURE 1
FIGURE 2
B. Fold edge
just over
seamline
Skirt
back
WS
C. Topstitch
right next to
edge
FIGURE 3
Stitch diagonally
across lower end
Skirt
FIGURE 4
1c
additional ½-inch fold in
place. Start measuring to mark
pleats from that point. On left
skirt back, start measuring for
pleats at finished placket
edge.
2. Use pins to mark beginning
point and end point of each
pleat. Pins pleats securely in
place. Depending on size, it
may be necessary to adjust
two pleats closest to side
seams up or down a bit in
depth. Use bodice front and
bodice back pattern pieces to
check that finished pleated
width of skirt front and two
skirt backs will fit actual
bodice. Try to force last pleat
closest to side seam on all
pieces to end at side seamline
of bodice even if it makes it
necessary to adjust depth of
last one or two pleats closest
to side seams. Soft pleating is
not an exact science – don’t
worry if all the pleats are not
a perfect uniform depth. The
lace/organza belt covers over
seamline between bodice and
skirt.
3. Finished pleated dress front
and dress back.
ATTACHING SKIRT TO
BODICE
1. Right sides together and
raw edges even, pin pleated
skirt to bodice, matching
center fronts, side seams and
finished placket edges to
foldlines on bodice backs.
Take care to keep bodice
lining out of way.
2. Stitch using a ½-inch seam
allowance. Stitch a second
time ¼ inch away in seam
allowance and trim all layers
close to second stitching line.
3. Fold under ½-inch on
lower edge of bodice lining
and press. Hand sew bodice
lining in place encasing seam
allowance. Lower raw edge of
front inset is also folded
under and encased in this
seam.
HEM FINISH
NOTE: The 1-inch tuck,
machine-sewn hem requires a
6-inch hem allowance.
1. Fold under 4 inches on
lower edge of skirt; press.
Fold under ¼-inch along raw
hem edge, machine stitch 1⁄8
inch from top edge of hem.
2. Fold under hem again, this
time 4¾ inches; press. To
form tuck, stitch 1 inch from
folded edge. The raw edge of
hem is encased in this tuck.
Press tuck down toward lower
edge of skirt.
FINISHING UP
1. Make four horizontal
buttonholes on right bodice
back in marked positions. Use
a piece of Stitch ‘n Tear held
on backside of fabric for
stability when stitching
buttonholes. Remove Stitch n’
Tear when buttonholes are
completed. Cut buttonholes
open.
2. Stitch size 18 buttons to
corresponding positions of
left bodice back along
center-back line.
3. Make one horizontal
buttonhole on each cuff in
marked position. Use ‘Stitch ‘n
Tear as above. Stitch a button
in place in corresponding
position on underlay side of
cuff.
4. Hand tack center point of
an 18-inch length of
5⁄8-inch-wide silk satin ribbon
to bottom of “V” on front
inset.
5. Stitch a 1-inch
mother-of-pearl button (with
large open holes) in place
over hand-tacked ribbon.
6. Draw ends of ribbon
through holes of the button
and tie in a bow.
1d
1e
1f
1g
Small
Large
1h
2a
2b
2c
2d
2e
2f
2g
2h
3a
3b
3c
3d
3e
3f
3g
3h
4a
4b
Lacy Sailor Dress - Cutting Layout
54” Wide Silk Organza
54” width
10 3/4 ”
Sash
12”
Inset
7”
Inset
7”
12”
Inset
12”
7”
Belt
Belt
Belt
10 3/4 ”
selvage
selvage
2”
Belt
Inset
Collar
Block
12”
7”
2” 2”
16”
20”
Sash
on
ve
ee Bias
Sl
on
ve
ee as
Sl Bi
4c
4d
4e
4f
4g
4h
5a
LACY SAILOR DRESS BY GAIL DOANE
YARDAGE & CUTTING GUIDE
45-inch Silk Dupioni
Skirt Front and Back
Cut Two:
Size 4 – 26-inches (l) x 44-inches (w)
Size 5 – 27 ½ -inches (l) x 44-inches (w)
Size 6 - 29-inches (l) x 44-inches (w)
Size 7 – 30 ¼ -inches (l) x 44-inches (w)
Size 8 – 31 ½-inches (l) x 44-inches (w)
Skirt Placket – 8 ½-inch (l) x 1 ¾-inch (w)
Sleeve Plackets – 6 ½-inch (l) x 1 ¾-inch (w)
Piping bias – 14-inch (l) x 1-inch (w)
54-inch Ecru Silk Organza
Sashes
Cut two:
Size 4 – 36 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w)
Size 5 – 37 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w)
Size 6 – 38 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w)
Size 7 – 39 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w)
Size 8 – 40 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w)
Collar Block – 16-inch (l) x 20-inch (w)
Cut four:
Inset Block – 12-inch (l) x 7-inch (w)
Cut four:
Front Belt Block– 2-inch (l) x 18-inch (w)
Silk Dupioni Yardage
Dress
45” (115cm) Fabric W/WO Nap
4 = 3 YD (2.8 M)
5 = 3-1/8 YD (2.9 M)
6 = 3-1/4 YD (3 M)
7 = 3-3/8 YD (3.1 M)
8 = 31/2 YD (3.2 M)
5b
Lacy Sailor Dress - Cutting Layout
45” Wide Cranberry Silk Dupioni
45” width
31.5
Skirt
Front
31.5
Skirt
Front
selvage
selvage
Bodice
Back
Bodice
Back
14” Bodice
Front
Bodice
Front
3” Cuff
Cuff
Cuff
ve
ee ias
Sl n B
O
ve
ee ias
Sl n B
O
23”
Cuff
Cut
Skirt
Placket
&
Sleeve
Plackets
here
Pi
p
Bi ing
as
14”
5c
5d
5e
5f
5g
5h