NCS S 1560-R90B NCS S 7005-R80B Decorative Jacket Sew this decorative jacket with wonderful details along the neckline, front and pockets. Use Burda pattern 7634 as a basic pattern. We used View B and made a few changes in the pattern. Follow the step-by-step instructions below. Sewing supplies Smarter by PFAFF® C1100 Pro Sewing Machine Robison Anton 40 wt. Rayon Embroidery Thread Sewing thread to match your fabric Inspira™ Twin needle 1.6mm size 80, 6200737-96 Inspira™ Tear Away Stabilizer Smarter by Pfaff™ Accessories Piping Foot 820532-096 Fabric and notions: Light-colored linen for the jacket (see pattern) Turquoise Thai-silk for the neckline 4" (10cm). Embroidered silk for front, 4" (10cm). Satin for the welt piping, 19.5" (50cm). Cotton cord; 3mm diameter to use for piping, long enough for neck, front and sleeves. For more information regarding accessories please visit www.smarterbypfaff.com. SMARTER BY PFAFF® C1100 Pro Decorative Jacket 1 m) • Cut Trace the pattern in your size and cut. • Alter the front and back pieces: • Measure from the neckline on the front piece 11/2" (4cm) and 1 1/4" (3 cm) at the shoulder line. • Draw a smooth line so the marking matches. Trace the new pattern pieces. Cut. • Trace the center front of the front piece and measure 1 1/4" (3cm) wide pattern piece. • Draw a new pattern piece, same as the grey marked area of the sleeve below • Measure 4" x 1"( 10x 2 cm) for the pocket flap 1 piece. to create illu a pattern 1½” (4cm) 1½” (4cm) 3/4” (2cm) illu 2 • Iron fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the front pieces, neck, sleeve, pocket and front edges. Assembly instructions 1. Press the twin needle button on your sewing machine and change to the Inspira twin needle 1.6mm size 80. 2.Thread your sewing machine with embroidery thread in two matching colors on top and illu 2bobbin thread in the bobbin. illu 3 3.Test sew different stitches on a scrap piece. Use the Inspira Tear-A-way stabiliser and use the DFS™ (Dual Feed System) on your Smarter by PFAFF® C1100 Pro sewing machine. We have used stitch B 66 and combined that with a straight stitch. Once you have decided what stitch to use, decorate the and illu 3 pocket pieces illu 2 neck, sleeve illu 3to your liking. 1½” (4cm) illu 4 3/4” (2cm) illu 2 illu 5 illu 3 illu 6 illu 4 (3cm) illu 5 Cut front edge in embroidered silk. (3cm) 1 1/4” (3cm) 1 1/4” 3/4” (2cm) • 1 1/4” (3cm) (3cm) 1 1/4” illu 1 1½” (4cm) 1 1/4” (3cm) 1 1/4” (3cm) • illu 1 Cut the fabric for your jacket base in white linen according to the pattern. Cut the lining • Cut neck, sleeve and pocket edges in turquoise Thai-silk. Measure from the neckline on the back piece 3/4" (2 cm) and 1 1/4" (3 cm) at the shoulder line. 1 1/4” m) Preparation 4. Decorate the front edge with three lines of twin needle straight stitches. Press. 1½” (4cm) 1½” (4cm) 5. Place the neck and front edge wrong sides together and stitch a straight stitch at a 45 degree angle. illu 4 illu 7 illu 5 illu 6 illu 6 1½” (4cm) illu 8 illu 4 illu 7 illu 7 SMARTER BY PFAFF® C1100 Pro Decorative Jacket 2 (3cm) 1 1/4” (3cm) 1 1/4” 1½” (4cm) 1 1/4” (3cm) 6. Place the two neck/front edges right sides 3/4” (2cm) together. Pin and stitch a straight stitch at the center back. Press. 1 1/4” (3cm) 1½” (4cm) 7.Measure along the neck/front edge, sleeve edge and pocket edge for the piping. Cut satin illuon53/4 illu 1fabrics duchess the” (2cm) bias 2" wide(5cm) and illu 6 illu 2 the length you measured, to cover the cotton cord plus seam allowance. Cut cotton cord same length as the bias. illu 7 illu 3 21.Add piping on one of the long sides of the 4 pocket flap. Foldillu the pocket flap lengthwise with the right sides together. 1½” (4cm) 22.Sew the short sides of the flap with a straight stitch. illu 7 illu illu 4 8 illu 6 length 3. illu 8 ill 1½” (4cm) 23.Turn the flap to have the right side out, Press. illu 7 flap as desired, and stitch it in Place the pocket illu 9 illu 4place with at straight stitch. illu 6 illu 10 illu 7 11.Stitch to cover the piping with the fabric. ©2010 KSIN Luxembourg II, S.ar.l. All rights reserved. SMARTER BY PFAFF and DFS™ are trademarks of KSIN Luxembourg II, S.ar.l. illu 5illu 4 20.Trim the seam allowance of1½” the(4cm) piping at curves and corners. 9. Place the fabric and the piping under the groove 1½” (4cm) of the foot, have the raw edges to the right. illustraight 5 stitch and stitch ” (2cm) 10.Select center3/4 needle illu 5 illu 3 illu 6 to the pattern. 19. Finish sewing your jacket according Before attaching the sleeves sew the neck/front edge to the jacket. Right sides together, pin and stitch a straight stitch. Press. 1 1/4” (3cm) 8. Use the Piping Foot 820532-096 to make the trim. Wrap the bias fabric strip around the cord. illu illu 3 1½” (4cm) illu 2 1 1/4” (3cm) illu 1 illu 2 12.Trim the seam allowance; leave ¼" (6mm). illu 9illu 8 on the right side of the 13.Place the covered piping illu fabric 5 along the seam line. Place it under the illu 6 Piping Foot. illu 8 illu 7 illu 9 DESIGN 24.To make your jacket even more special stitch a label. Program “Designed By” select a decorative M stitch and your name byPatricia following the instructions in your manual. illu 10 25.Sew on a piece of fabric that matches your decorations. Make sure you have fusible interfacing on the label. Iron the label and fold DESIGN BY the illu edges under. Attach it with a decorative stitch 10 using a matching embroidery thread. illu 8illu 9 DESIGN 14.Sew the piping to the neck/front edge along the side that attaches to the front piece. 15.Sew the piping to the sleeve edge that attaches to the sleeve piece. 16.Sew the piping to the top of the pocket. 17.Trim the seam allowance of the piping at curves and corners. illu 9 the decorated sleeve edge to the sleeve. 18.Sew Place wrong sides together and pin. Stitch a straight stitch. Press. BY Patricia Patricia BY M M illu 10 Finished! DESIGN Patricia BY M SMARTER BY PFAFF® C1100 Pro Decorative Jacket 3
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