1. style and fashion

Europe Retail/Street: London, Paris & Antwerp
Jamie Ross, Creative Director
THE SCENE:
There was a sense of joy in the air and on the street with
signs of spring finally showing and Easter decorations
on display (including Harrod’s wonderful “FashionEasta”
promotion and Fabergé at Harrods). People were clearly
shopping, although the majority were still wearing darks
and transitional clothing.
FASHION ISSUES:
• As a note, nearly every typical theme was revamped via
print/pattern, technology and novel combinations.
• The Life Aquatic/Surf’s Up: While active remained a key
factor (often combined with other stories or unexpected
elements), the transition for late spring/summer looked to
surf and skate elements for inspiration. Probably the most
visible collection once again was Kenzo, in their partnership
with the Blue Marine Foundation and catchy “No Fish, No
Nothing” slogan, fish prints and wavy hemlines. Selfridges
“Board Rooms” and windows – until April 30 – featured an
edit of luxury surf and skate-iNspired pieces, ensembles
and designer boards custom created for the event. Karl
Lagerfeld did swimsuit cover-ups with his likeness and
imagery of a Chanel surfboard, and many stores
featured boards in windows - for kids as well.
Founders of the now-defunct cult skate brand Silas –
Sofia Maria Prantera and Fergus Purcell – are designing the coveted label Aries, featuring ’90s-inspired oversized tees and baggy pants. Two surf-loving Parisian
brothers also set up a laid-back store “for the gentleman
surfer.” A place to stock up on books, clothes, boards
and coffee is Cuisse De Grenouille at 5 rue Froissart,
cuissedegrenouille.com.
463 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10018 T 212.564.1266 F 212.564.3971 www.doneger.com
APRIL 12-18, 2014
Europe Retail/Street Scene: London, Paris & Antwerp
FASHION ISSUES (CONTINUED):
• Tropical Twist: Every imaginable take on tropical was on display –
from dark print tropicals on white or ivory grounds (e.g. Marc Jacobs)
and pales (Fausto Puglisi) to photo-real, blurred and netted variations.
In accessories, Prada featured black palm trees on cobalt grounds. Often in combination with tropical, destination graphics and retro Miami
images/call-outs were visible. Tropical prints were strong for every
classification, gender and age.
• Art (& Crafts) Exhibit: As anticipated from our earlier travels, windows and stores were filled with art references at all levels.
• The Lumineers: SS’14’s glossiest style solution – featuring metallic
foils, Lurex and iridescent effects.
• Fresh Florals: Super charged variations on spring’s perennial favorites. 3-D: created with densely encrusted beads and appliqués. Sheer:
barely there or clear fabrics modernize painterly prints and watercolor shades. Sporty: gym kit basics covered in bold petals. Christopher
Kane’s floral dissections were heavily on display at retail and seemed
to inspire Bon Marché’s deconstructed designer floral windows. Preen
was also a favorite in this genre with liquid metallic fabrics blocked and
strewn with flowers for a futuristic vision.
• Speaking of futuristic, continue to watch out for Star Wars 7 inspiration. Not only were the characters popular tee motifs at trendy Sunday
Upmarket in London, a travelling exhibition has begun in Paris featuring model spaceships, mouse droids and pod racers, along with early
sketches of Darth Vader and the original R2-D2 costume. The exhibition runs until June 30 at La Cité du Cinéma, starwarsidenties.com.
• Time To Embrace Lace: From the turbo-charged pastel versions at
Christopher Kane and Burberry, to the gothic princesses from Marc Jacobs, lace moved past its saccharine-sweet girlishness and lingerie
connotations and mixed with tees, sweatshirts and Birkenstocks for
good measure.
463 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10018 T 212.564.1266 F 212.564.3971 www.doneger.com
JAMIE ROSS \ APR 12-18, 2014
Europe Retail/Street Scene: London, Paris & Antwerp
FASHION ISSUES (CONTINUED):
•Super Embellishment: Continued in a HUGE way, with jewels
and pearls on everything (even for men and denim). Looking new
was the focus on jewel prints, especially popular for junior to
contemporary (important line: Jaded London), but also seen for
intimates and stores like & Other Stories.
• Bohemian Rhapsody: Festival dressing appeared to be a priority
for many youth-minded retailers, from floral headbands to fringed
toppers.
• Spaghetti Western: Alexis Mabille and others continued a very
tongue-in-cheek approach to Americana with sexy piped and
yoked interpretations. Warm weather Western booties were seen in
abundance on the street and at retail, while fringe and tassels
appeared in every category.
• New Tribe: Tribal motifs, prints and beading were prominent
heading into warmer temps. Givenchy’s prints were heavily on
display for both women and men, and Zara mixed African style tribal
prints with gingham. This theme was key for accessories.
• Big Easy: Directional shaping continued to move into new
silhouettes with A-Line, trapeze and full cut styles. Think generous
menswear-inspired jackets and shirtings/tunics, to culottes and
wide-legged trousers/palazzos. Flyaway tops and dresses were cut
to feel the breeze.
• Neo Mexican: Appeared as a sub theme at Bon Marché department
store and Agatha Paris for accessories. With destination themes
strong, it was a winner for summer.
• # Mania: As a merchandising note, hashtag messaging was huge
for windows and displays (both window and in-store), allowing the
viewer to get an inside perspective.
463 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10018 T 212.564.1266 F 212.564.3971 www.doneger.com
JAMIE ROSS \ APR 12-18, 2014
Europe Retail/Street Scene: London, Paris & Antwerp
ITEMS:
• No Surprise – Crop Tops: With skirts (full or pencil) or
shorts or pants. Bra tops and bustiers as well.
• The Feminine White Blouse or Top: Often lace trimmed.
• The Crochet Item
• Metallic Accented Sweater
• Long Shorts & Culottes: Also as matched sets.
• The Pleated Skirt
• The White Pant: Ankle to trouser to jeans.
• Soft Palazzo or Wide Leg Pant: Often printed.
• Raw Edged Denim: New on deep cuffed looks as well.
• Acid Wash Denim
• Flare Jean: Again; Donna Ida’s “Love A Flare” signage.
• Strapless
• Slip Dresses: Continued strong.
• Jumpsuits and Overalls
• Zip-Front Blouson/Bomber Jacket
• Piano Fringed Festival Bed Jacket or Vest
• The Classic Trench: Push from Burberry to other key
retailers. Often recut with more generous proportions.
• Clear Vinyl Outerwear: From Topshop to designer. New
printed, sandwiched with lace and textures, contrast piped.
463 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10018 T 212.564.1266 F 212.564.3971 www.doneger.com
JAMIE ROSS \ APR 12-18, 2014
Europe Retail/Street Scene: London, Paris & Antwerp
PRINTS/PATTERNS/FABRICS:
• Tropicals: Dark Print Tropicals – Copied heavily from the white
or ivory grounds á la Marc Jacobs, on pastel grounds from Fausto
Puglisi and Moschino. Also photo-real, blurred or topped with
active netting.
• Gemstone Prints: Important from designer to junior and
contemporary, even intimates. Again, look to Jaded London.
• Grids and Ginghams
• Phillip Lim-Style Geode Prints: & Other Stories also featured
rock prints in addition to the geodes.
• Daisies: Now huge following our Tokyo sightings last summer,
from High Street to Stella McCartney.
• Florals on Dark Grounds: Even for guys.
• Mary Katrantzou’s Active/Shoe Prints: Featured heavily in
department stores and major focus at Colette. The designer will
collaborate with Adidas Originals come November, on the first
women’s focused collaboration since Stella.
• Python/Snake Prints
• Printed Lightweight Chambray/Denim
• Crochet
• Laser/Openwork
• Oversized Active Mesh: Also tie-dyed and printed, layered over
tropical.
• Sheers: Newest textured.
• Foiled: Newest printed.
• Seersucker
• Vinyl: Predominantly skirts – Topshop, & Other Stories,
Selfridges.
463 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10018 T 212.564.1266 F 212.564.3971 www.doneger.com
JAMIE ROSS \ APR 12-18, 2014
Europe Retail/Street Scene: London, Paris & Antwerp
DETAILS:
• Fringe & Tassels: Everywhere, every category.
• Pearls: Also on everything!
• Jewels, Jewels and More Jewels: Even for men and on denim.
• Sport Rib Knit Trim: With tropicals and gingham as well.
• Zipper Detailing: Down fronts of leggings and other items.
463 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10018 T 212.564.1266 F 212.564.3971 www.doneger.com
JAMIE ROSS \ APR 12-18, 2014
Europe Retail/Street Scene: London, Paris & Antwerp
ACCESSORIES: (Refer to “The Scene,” “Fashion
Issues,” “Colors” and “Details”)
• Tribal: Print and beading huge.
• Tropical: See Fashion Issues.
• Tribal: See Fashion Issues.
• Bejeweled
• Art-Inspired/Handcrafted
• Pearls: Again.
• Messaging Accessories
• Kenzo: Water-themed, surf accessories.
• Bao Bao: Issey Miyake’s handbag line dominant in
department stores.
• Trompe L’Oeil: Bags and jewelry.
• Novelty Clutches: e.g. Lichtenstein.
• Moschino McDonald’s Themed Accessories
• Snakeskin Overload
• Crocodile
• Laser Cuts & Perforations
• White: Modern (chalk white and matte at Louis
Vuitton)
• Pale Gray
• Pale Blue
• Yellows
• Candy Coated Pastels
• Twisted Satin Rope/Cord Necks
• Giant J.Crew-Style Jewel Necklaces
• Prada’s Sportif/Jeweled Costume Looks
• Curved Metal Jewelry Looks á la Balenciaga
• Dramatic Drop Ears
• Single Charms and Coins
• Engagement Ring Y-Neck
• Carven’s Gingham Check Dickie Collars
• Copies of Burberry’s Flower Appliqué Bags: Also
butterfly appliqués.
• Mulberry’s Three-Keyhole Plates
• Fringed and Tasseled Bags Huge
• Smaller Trapezoids and Structured Bags
JAMIE ROSS \ APR 12-18, 2014
• Miu Miu Quilted Denim Bags
• Jeweled Box Clutches
• Belt Bags and Fanny Packs
• Duffle Slings
• Backpacks: MCM now major.
• Metal Belts
• Floral Festival Headbands
• Art-Inspired Scarves
• Head Scarves and Turbans
• Visors
• Baseball and Trucker Caps
• Velvet Sunglass Frames
• Matte Glitter Sunglass Frames
• Fingerless Gloves
• Spring Gloves: Pastels, openwork.
• Merchandising Note: Shoe Tables at Selfridges
with Wood Shoe Form Bases.
• The Western Bootie
• The Flat Sandal: Slides, Birkenstocks, embellished.
• Pointed Flats
• Espadrille Bottoms: On athletic styles as well.
• Contrast Colored and Printed Heels
• Giuseppe Zanotti Sneaker Updates: Chain links,
metal alligator closures, prints.
• Mother of Pearl Slip-On Sneakers
• Liberty x Nike Collaboration Sneakers
• Ankle Socks and Sandals Overwhelming: Sheers,
pointelles, textures, Prada athletic-inspired styles,
prints, gingham, checks and stripes.
• Hosiery: Sheer colors, point d’esprit, Swiss dot,
lace, fishnets, front seams.
• Footless Hose/Tights
• Bon Marché’s Accessory Department Displays:
As Pat mentioned, bright colored display forms.
463 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10018 T 212.564.1266 F 212.564.3971 www.doneger.com
Europe Retail/Street Scene: London, Paris & Antwerp
JAMIE ROSS \ APR 12-18, 2014
ACCESSORIES: (Refer to “The Scene,” “Fashion Issues,” “Colors” and “Details”)
Europe Retail/Street Scene: London, Paris & Antwerp
LINGERIE
•
Candy Coated Colors: Sweet and lively, e.g. PJ stripes and
satin lingerie.
• Delph Blue and White
• Racy Black: Ongoing inspiration of fetish/bondage.
• Elle Macpherson: Turquoises and blues; citrus yellow and
gray.
• Stella McCartney: Turquoise and black, navy and black, peach
and orange.
•Brights: Turquoise, green, coral
• Yellow or Mint with Peach
•Corals
• Pink/Orange/Black with Leopard
• White: Pure cotton push, Victorian-inspired.
• L’Agent: Orchid and citrus yellow.
• Art-Inspired Prints
• Gemstone Prints
• Palm Tree Prints: Princess Tam Tam.
• Embroidered Patterns: Aztec, needlepoint.
• Gray Heather Jersey Mixed with Lace
• Tie-Dyed Lace: TCN and Agent Provocateur.
• Tap Shorts or Boxers with Bra
• Retro Briefs with Garters
• More Integrated Sportswear Pieces: Cardigans, tanks/tees,
bodysuits, dresses and skirts.
• Standout Lines: Helena Christensen for Triumph and Pazuki
(silk/linen mixes with prints)
• Chantal Thomas Paris Collection: Eiffel Tower and Coca Cola
Light bottles.
•Tezenis: Three-pack “Customize Your Knickers” Promo – with
messaging, e.g. London Calling, Sexy Pants.
• Clothing Pin Line Display: At samfriday.com in Antwerp.
463 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10018 T 212.564.1266 F 212.564.3971 www.doneger.com
JAMIE ROSS \ APR 12-18, 2014
Europe Retail/Street Scene: London, Paris & Antwerp
JAMIE ROSS \APR 12-18, 2014
MEN’S: (Refer to The Scene, Fashion Issues, Colors and Details)
• Tropical/Destination HUGE: Darker colors offered more sophistication.
• Jungle Graphics: Monotone or toile style.
• Camo Updates
• Black & White Checks: Modern, mixed with orange.
• Bright Orange Accents: With navy at Hugo Boss.
• Long Shorts with Blazers
• Vests
• Bomber/Baseball Jackets
• Python Footwear: Boots and sneakers.
• The Man Bag: Returns in modern attachés and briefcases.
• Franklin Marshall: Preppy Italian men’s retailer in Covent Garden – similar to Jack Wills.
• Hackett London “Rising Stars” SS’14: Collection in collaboration with students from
The London College of Fashion and inspiration boards. Really upped the fashion quotient,
turning classics into a cool prep look.
463 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10018 T 212.564.1266 F 212.564.3971 www.doneger.com
Europe Retail/Street Scene: London, Paris & Antwerp
KIDS: (Refer to The Scene, Fashion Issues, Colors and Details)
•Surf/Skate: As in Fashion Issues.
•Handcrafted
• Summer Spectator/Nautical
• Tropical and Destination HUGE
• Mermaids & Fish
•Yellow: With white, blue, black and white, and continuing
as citrus-toned highlighter accent.
• Black & White: In summer plaids at Bonpoint.
• Lilac and lavender
•Metallics
• Blue & White
• Purple & Green: Antwerp.
•Kenzo: Logo embroideries and prints.
•Trompe L’Oeil Jeans Leggings: from Jean Paul Gaultier,
getting a lot of attention at Harrods.
•Rompers
• Stella McCartney: Kids line popular.
• Diesel Mustache Graphics
• Reworked Utility
• Space and Futuristic Effects
• Big Cats: Lions and tigers.
• Gucci’s Retro Beach Umbrella Graphics
•Gingham
•Daisies: As in Women’s (from Tokyo last summer).
•Seersucker
•Toile
• Rose Prints With Denim for Tween
• Raw Edges and Embellished Denim
• Charm Hang-offs
•Missoni: Line prominent in kids designer departments.
•Madame Noir/Le Voliére: Hot at retail – tees with add-on
collars and jewelry, high end value.
• Slip-On Sneakers: Prints and colors.
• Western Boots
•Add A Kid: Bibs for infants featuring whimsical outfit photos
but missing heads.
•Mango’s Kids Line: New push – competing with Zara and
emulating Scotch & Soda down to styling.
• Opportunity Exists in Girls Accessories and Giftables
463 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10018 T 212.564.1266 F 212.564.3971 www.doneger.com
JAMIE ROSS \ APR 12-18, 2014
Europe Retail/Street Scene: London, Paris & Antwerp
HAPPENINGS/RETAIL NEWS:
• Être Cécile: New line of easy sporty tees and tee dresses, along with
sweatshirts from fashion consultants Yasmin Sewell and Jemma Dyas.
Fans include Beyoncé, Rihanna and Cara Delevingne. Next, they are introducing knitwear and a pre-fall denim collection.
• Great New Novelty Graphic Junior Line – Mini Cream: At Selfridges,
available online.
• The Newish J.Crew Stores at Brompton Cross and Regent Street: Definitely taking chances and creating buzz via merchandising.
• Leading Ladies Promotion at Marks and Spencer – Featuring Emma
Thompson, Rita Ora, Annie Lennox and Alex Wek, among other influential ladies. Putting a focus on fashion trends, human rights and global
issues at www.marksandspencer.com/leadingladies.
• Seasonal Inspiration Boards: Seen in the windows of Hackett London
(see Men’s section) and Essential Antwerp.
• Franklin Marshall: Preppy Italian men’s retailer in Covent Garden, similar to Jack Wills.
• Karl Lagerfeld Store Expansion
• Essential Antwerp: Great for contemporary direction.
• CKS Antwerp: Squares of photo heads hung over headless mannequin
outfits in windows.
• Barbie Windows in Antwerp: Partying vintage Barbies with uplifting
messaging signage.
• Petit Bateau: Great new ad campaign – “For Never Old” – Clothes for
0 to 1000 months! Showcasing models from infants to adults with their
age in months.
• Dries Van Noten Exhibit “Inspirations:” Offers a tantalizing insight into
the designer’s world and inspirations, showing how he manages to be
both timely and timeless in his designs. A must-see in Paris at Les Arts
Décoratifs in Paris until August 31, 107 rue de Rivoli.
463 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10018 T 212.564.1266 F 212.564.3971 www.doneger.com
JAMIE ROSS \ APR 12-18, 2014