1. style and fashion
2. beauty
3. hair care

PRINCIPLES OF HAIRSTYLING - WORKBOOK
Hairstyling & Aesthetics – TXJ3E – Ms. Navas
Rev: May 2011
Name: ________________________________________________
Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
THIS PAGE IS INTENTIONALLY BLANK
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Table of Contents
Philosophy of Design ..................................................................................................................................... 5
Elements of Hair Design ............................................................................................................................ 5
FACIAL TYPES................................................................................................................................................. 7
ROUND FACE ............................................................................................................................................. 8
OVAL FACE ................................................................................................................................................ 8
HEART FACE .............................................................................................................................................. 9
SQUARE FACE ............................................................................................................................................ 9
OBLONG FACE ......................................................................................................................................... 10
Activity – Face Shapes ............................................................................................................................. 11
Assignment: Face Shapes. .................................................................................................................. 12
The Art of Braiding ...................................................................................................................................... 16
Activity: Braiding Board Project .............................................................................................................. 17
Types of Braids ........................................................................................................................................ 18
4 Strand Braid – Step by Step.............................................................................................................. 19
Invisible French Braid – Step by Step .................................................................................................. 21
Visible French Braid ............................................................................................................................ 22
Rope Braid ........................................................................................................................................... 23
The Basics of Long Hair ............................................................................................................................... 28
Wet or Dry? ............................................................................................................................................. 28
Tools of the Trade ................................................................................................................................... 28
Back-combing...................................................................................................................................... 28
Bobby Pins vs Hairpins ............................................................................................................................ 29
ROLLER SETS ................................................................................................................................................ 30
Parts of a roller curler: ............................................................................................................................ 30
Roller Placement ..................................................................................................................................... 31
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Assignment: History of the Pin Curl ........................................................................................................ 32
Assignment: Design a Tool ...................................................................................................................... 32
Safety: ..................................................................................................................................................... 34
Activity: Wet Styling ................................................................................................................................ 35
Roller Set Design Techniques ...................................................................................................................... 39
Roller Set #1 ............................................................................................................................................ 39
Roller Set #2 ............................................................................................................................................ 39
Roller Set #3 ............................................................................................................................................ 40
Roller Set #4 ............................................................................................................................................ 40
Roller Set #5 ............................................................................................................................................ 41
Roller Set #6 ............................................................................................................................................ 41
Roller Set #7 ............................................................................................................................................ 42
Roller Set #8 ............................................................................................................................................ 42
Roller Set #9 ............................................................................................................................................ 43
Roller Set #10 .......................................................................................................................................... 43
Activity: Rubric for Roller Set Design Techniques ............................................................................... 44
Activity: Client Consultation........................................................................................................................ 47
Activity: Wedding Hair Disaster .................................................................................................................. 48
Activity: You and Your Hair ......................................................................................................................... 50
REVIEW ..................................................................................................................................................... 57
Word Bank for Review ......................................................................................................................... 59
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Philosophy of Design
A good designer always sees the end result before beginning. At times, you may look back into the past
for inspiration.
Elements of Hair Design
Line defines form and space. The presence of one nearly always means that the other two are involved.
Lines create the shape, design and movement of a hairstyle. The eye follows the lines in a design. They
can be straight or curved. There are 4 basic types of lines.
1. Horizontal lines create width in hair design. They extend in the same direction and maintain a
constant distance apart – from the floor or horizon.
2. Vertical lines create length and height in hair design. They make a hairstyle appear longer and
narrower as the eye follows the lines up and down.
3. Diagonal lines are positioned between horizontal and vertical lines. They are often used to
emphasize or minimize facial features. Diagonal lines are also used to create interest in hair
design.
4. Curved lines soften a design. They can be large or small, a full circle or just part of a circle.
____________________________________________________________
FORM—should be in proportion to the shape of the head and face, and
the length and width of neck and shoulder
SPACE—is the area the style occupies; three dimensional as well as
having length, width, and depth
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
LINE—creates form, design, and movement
CURVED LINES

Soften a design

Are circular in shape

Can be placed horizontally, vertically, or diagonally
PROPORTION

Relationships between objects relative to their size should be harmonious.

Analogy: 60” TV in a small room or a 13” TV in a large room is out of
proportion.

Hairstyles can be designed to correct out-of-proportion face shapes.
BODY PROPORTION

Hair and body proportion must be compatible.

A large hairstyle balances a large body structure.

Hair should never be wider than the center of the shoulders.
SYMMETRICAL BALANCE

Design is similar on both sides of the face.

Same length

Same volume

Same distance from the center of the face
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
FACIAL TYPES

The face is divided into three zones:
o
Forehead to eyebrow
o
Eyebrows to end of nose
o
End of nose to bottom of chin
 There are 5 basic face shapes that we will cover: oval, round, square, heart and oblong.
 Most of us have combinations of these face shapes.
FACIAL SHAPE
FACIAL CONTOUR
STYLING AIM
Round
round hairline and round chin; wide face
to create the illusion of length in the
face
Heart
wide forehead and narrow chin
the decrease the width of the
forehead and increase the width of
the lower part of face
Square
straight hairline and square jaw line;
wide face
to create the illusion of length; offset
the square features
Oblong
long; narrow face with hollow cheeks
to make face appear shorter and
wider
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
ROUND FACE
A round face is as wide as it is long with rounded edges including chin area. A round
face could be very flattering and can be accentuated with a bowl like hair cut. The
nose is the center guide. In trying to maintain the appearance of an oval face shape,
hair for round face shapes should be kept close to the sides of the face. Hairstyles
should add height on
top of the head. If you
want your face to
appear slimmer, make
sure hair is showing
below the chin. One
length chin cuts tend to
widen the face
therefore should be
avoided. Celebrities
with round face shapes:
Cameron Diaz, Kyra
Sedgwick and Penelope Cruz.
OVAL FACE
The oval face is 1.5 times longer that it is wide and its forehead is slightly wider than
the jaw. This is the ‘wannabe’ face shape, similar to the hourglass body shape. Oval
face shapes are highly desired and envied. All other face shapes attempt to create the
illusion of having an oval face. The oval face shape suits any hair style, including long,
short, medium, layered, straight or even curly. However, the best styles to go for are the ones that have
layers at the height of you best features such as cheekbones, lips or chin. Bangs can be added to
emphasize the eyes or add a little change. A
center parting accentuates the nose. Celebrities
with oval face shape include: Jessica Alba, Charlize
Theron, and Beyonce Knowles.
The idea is to create an oval contour with the
remaining facial shapes. How are we going to do
this? Let’s find out.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
HEART FACE
This facial shape is widest at the temples and narrowest at the jaw line with a
small sometimes pointed chin. Many heart-shaped faces also have a high
forehead.
Hairstyle for this shape needs to add width at the jaw line. Eyes and cheekbones
are generally strong points of the heart shaped face therefore can be played up.
For long hair styles, add long, wavy layers around your cheekbones that fall in the neck area. For shorter
hair, add top layers that are long and soft.
Side-swept bangs are a great technique to
lessen the width and height of the forehead
area.
Avoid blunt-cut bangs, short hair, ponytails
and choppy layers. Subtle layering is much
more flattering. Celebrities with Heart
Shaped Face include: Brittany Murphy,
Reese Witherspoon and Scarlett Johannson.
Harsh choppy layers or blunt cut bangs do
not suit a heart-shaped face.
Best look is full curly, wavy, bouncy hair
SQUARE FACE
The square face shape is as wide as it is long and has strong angles. This face shape
needs a hair style with softness to lessen the effects of the angles.
Long hair styles should fall past the shoulders, with face-framing layers to soften the
jaw line. Shorter styles should be kept round and soft with height in the crown area.
Wispy bangs are great, as well as fluffy, wispy curls.
Straight lines and straight bangs are a no-no.
Do not let any haircut end at the jawline.
These styles will accentuate the square-ness
your face shape. Celebrities with square face
shapes include: Demi Moore, Gwyneth
Paltrow and Geena Davis.
of
Notice the softness around Geena’s face which helps elongate the facial shape
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
OBLONG FACE
Long and narrow facial shape with a square chin and hairline is known as
Rectangular facial shape. An oval can be easily created just by adding a side swept
bang. The goal with this face shape is to create the illusion of more width by adding
fullness at the sides and having a smooth top with bangs of some sort play down
on its length by adding a fringe on the forehead Extremely long or short haircuts
make the face look longer
while chin-length bobs and
haircuts add width to the
face. Curls and waves can
also add width to your face
and make it appear more
oval.
Avoid extremely long,
straight styles, one-length
cuts, short layers that add
volume in the crown area
and styles without bangs as
these will make your long
face much more pronounced. Celebrities with long face shapes include: Ashlee Simpson, Sarah Jessica
Parker and Hilary Swank.
Notice how much more their faces are elongated with their hair totally off their faces.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Activity – Face Shapes
Find 5 different celebrity faces for each of the shapes and paste them into each corresponding box.
Round
Oval
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
Heart
Square
Oblong
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Assignment: Face Shapes.
For each of the face shapes, find a friend and design/style their hair according to their face shape.
Client Name:____________________________________________________
Face Shape: ____________________________________________________
Description of hairstyle:
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
Why you styled it in the fashion:
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
Picture of the final look:
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Review – Face shapes
Complete the following review by circling the correct answer to each question.
1. The outline of silhouette of a hairstyle is known as the ______________________.
a. Space
b. Line
c. Form
d. design
2. The form, design, and movement of a hairstyle is created by the ______________.
a. Space
b. Lines
c. Form
d. Design
3. The area that hairstyle occupies is called its volume or ______________________.
a. Space
b. Lines
c. Form
d. design
4. Lines that are parallel to the floor are known as _______________________.
a. Vertical
b. Diagonal
c. Horizontal
d. Curved
5. Lines used to soften a design are ______________________.
a. Vertical
b. Diagonal
c. Horizontal
d. Curved
6. Lines used to make a hairstyle appear longer and narrower are ______________________.
a. Vertical
b. Diagonal
c. Horizontal
d. Curved
7. Lines positioned between horizontal and vertical which are used to create interest are
______________________.
a. Vertical
b. Diagonal
c. Horizontal
d. Curved
8. An example of a line that is found in the blunt or one-length hairstyle cut is the
______________________ line.
a. Single
b. Contrasting
c. Transitional
d. Repeating
9. Lines that meet at a 90-degree angle and create a hard edge are called
______________________ lines.
a. Single
b. Contrasting
c. Transitional
d. Repeating
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
10. Curved lines used to soften and blend horizontal or vertical lines are known as
______________________ lines.
a. Single
b. Contrasting
c. Transitional
d. Repeating
11. Lighter and warmer colors are used to create the illusion of ______________________.
a. Subtlety
b. Repetition
c. Volume
d. Closeness
12. Dark and cool colors move forward or toward the head and create the illusion of less
______________________ .
a. Volume
b. Height
c. Width
d. Strength
13. When choosing haircolor, it should be compatible with the client’s ______________________.
a. Eye color
b. Skin tone
c. Family’s choice
d. Childhood dreams
14. Wave patterns can be natural or created with styling techniques, chemical changes, curling irons
or ______________________.
a. Client’s desire
b. Stylist’s desire
c. Hair brushing
d. Hot rollers
15. Curly hair can be permanently straightened with ______________________ .
a. Curling irons
b. Hair relaxers
c. Pressing irons
d. Crimping irons
16. Curly and extremely curly hair, do not reflect much light and could be
______________________ to the touch.
a. Soft
b. Smooth
c. Limp
d. coarse
17. The five principles of hair design are proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis and
______________________ .
a. Symmetry
b. Asymmetry
c. Harmony
d. Diagonal
18. ______________________ wave patterns accent the face and are particularly useful when you
wish to narrow a round head shape.
a. Rough
b. Busy
c. Smooth
d. numerous
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
19. An example of a line that is found in the blunt or one-length hairstyle cut is the
______________________ line.
a. Single
b. Contrasting
c. Transitional
d. Repeating
20. The pattern that creates movement in a hairstyle is known as ______________________.
a. Balance
b. Harmony
c. Rhythm
d. emphasis
21. _______________ is considered the most important of the principles of hair design.
a. Balance
b. Harmony
c. Rhythm
d. emphasis
22. The ______________________ in a hairstyle is the place the eyes see first.
a. Balance
b. Harmony
c. Rhythm
d. emphasis
23. Generally, the ideal face shape is said to be the ______________________ shape.
a. Square
b. Round
c. Oval
d. Pear
24. The face is divided into ______________________ zones.
a. One
b. Two
c. Three
d. Four
25. Creating the illusion of width in the forehead would be best for the ______________________
face shape.
a. Round
b. triangular
c. oblong
d. diamond
26. The aim of reducing the width across the cheekbone line is best for the
______________________ face shape.
a. Round
b. triangular
c. oblong
d. diamond
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
The Art of Braiding

Originated in Africa

Highly regarded as an art form

Signified social and marital status

Distinguished one’s tribe, age, occupation, and religion

Today communicates self-image and self-esteem

Can be done on all face shapes
Working with Wet or Dry Hair

It is best to braid hair when it is dry.

When working with wet hair, allow for some shrinkage to avoid breakage or hair loss from
pulling or twisting.

Long hair is best braided dry; apply a leave-in conditioner.

Pomades, gels, or lotions are used for control and a finished look.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Activity: Braiding Board Project
Project: Each student will create a braiding board to practice the skills for the hair
braiding process.
You will need: 1 shoe box (square type is preferred)
-
hole punch
3 colored ropes
Step 1. Find the center of the top side and make a hole (using hole punch) measure 1
inch on either side and make one more hole.
Step 2: Find the center of both sides of the box, make a hole and measure 1 inch to
make a 2nd and 3rd hole. Measure 1 inch from those holes and make 2 more, so you
have 5 on each side. There are no holes along the bottom.
Step 3: Bottom flap: Cut open box on corner edge to work freely on flat box. You may
make a closure if you wish for when not in use.
Step 4: Preparing colored cords or ropes. Cut 1 and a half foot lengths of ropes.
-
4 of one color
4 of another color (2)
5 of a third color (3)
Step 5: Attaching colored cords or ropes.
-
Attach one of each color on the top of the board.
Complete the colors to create a French braiding pattern.
Step 6: Practice – braid 3 strands at the top together.
Create: - Regular braid using the top 3 strands, invisible and visible braid.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Types of Braids
Two Strand Braid – Fishtail
Invisible French
Two Strand Ponytail
Rope Braid
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
Four Strand Braid
Five Strand Braid
Visible French Braid
Page 18
Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
4 Strand Braid – Step by Step
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Invisible French Braid – Step by Step
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
Page 21
Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Visible French Braid
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
Page 22
Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Rope Braid
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
Page 23
Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
BRAIDING RUBRIC - A
Tools
Tail comb
Paddle brush
Elastic
Towel
Water bottle
Expectations
Assessment
All tools ready
/1
Brushed First
/1
Even sections
/1
Centred
/1
Smooth sections /2
Even tension
/2
Positive Attitude /1
Clean up
/1
Total
French Braid
(Invisible)
Self
Teacher
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 – .5 - 1
0 – .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0–1-2
0–1-2
0–1-2
0–1-2
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
/10
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
/10
/10
Inverted Braid
(Visible)
Self
Teacher
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 – .5 - 1
0 – .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0–1-2
0–1-2
0–1-2
0–1-2
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
/10
/10
Page 25
2 Strand Pony
Fishtail
Self
Teacher
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 – .5 - 1
0 – .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0–1-2
0–1-2
0–1-2
0–1-2
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
/10
/10
Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
BRAIDING RUBRIC-B
Tools
Tail comb
Paddle brush
Elastic
Towel
Water bottle
Expectations
Assessment
All tools ready
/1
Brushed First
/1
Even sections
/1
Centred
/1
Smooth sections /2
Even tension
/2
Positive Attitude /1
Clean up
/1
Total
Combination Braid
Self
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 – .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0–1-2
0–1-2
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
/10
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
/10
Teacher
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 – .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0–1-2
0–1-2
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
/10
Four strand Braid
Self
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 – .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0–1-2
0–1-2
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
Rope Braid
Teacher
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 – .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0–1-2
0–1-2
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
/10
/10
Page 26
Self
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 – .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0–1-2
0–1-2
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
/10
Teacher
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0 – .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
0–1-2
0–1-2
0 - .5 - 1
0 - .5 - 1
/10
Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Basic Competencies Reference Guide
Skill
Level
Ma n ag in g Le a rn in g
continually comes to class prepared for
learning.
continually follows detailed instructions
independently.
4
demonstrates self-directions in learning,
goal setting and goal achievement.
Co m m u n ic atin g Effe c tiv e ly
Working with Others
Demonstrating Responsibility
prepares and effectively presents accurate
material.
continually motivates individuals.
continually listens and responds effectively.
demonstrates positive interpersonal skills.
continually leads where appropriate,
encourages group performance.
continually provides positive
leadership.
continually demonstrates responsibility in attendance.
continually punctual
assignments are continually complete.
continually demonstrates personal health and
safety procedures.
continually identifies hazards and their impact.
regularly leads where appropriate,
usually encourages group
performance.
regularly provides positive
leadership.
regularly demonstrates responsibility in attendance.
regularly punctual.
assignments are regularly complete.
regularly, demonstrates personal health and
safety procedures.
regularly identifies hazards and their impact.
occasionally leads, rarely encourages
group performance.
occasionally provides positive
leadership.
occasionally demonstrates responsibility in attendance.
occasionally punctual.
assignments are occasionally complete.
occasionally, demonstrates personal health and safety
procedures.
occasionally identifies hazards and their impact.
does not lead, does not encourage
group performance.
sporadically provides positive
leadership.
sporadically demonstrates responsibility in attendance.
sporadically punctual.
assignments are sporadically complete.
sporadically demonstrates personal health and
safety procedures.
sporadically identifies hazards and their impact.
transfers and applies learning in new
situations.
provides leadership.
3
regularly comes to class prepared for
learning.
regularly prepares and effectively
presents accurate material.
follows detailed instructions without
direction.
regularly motivates individuals.
sets goals and establishes steps to achieve
them
regularly demonstrates positive
interpersonal skills.
listens and responds effectively.
transfers and applies knowledge, skills in
practical situations.
co-operates with others.
2
occasionally comes to class prepared for
learning.
prepares and presents material.
occasionally follows instructions.
occasionally listens and responds.
sets goals and establishes steps to achieve
them with direction.
occasionally demonstrates positive
interpersonal skills.
occasionally motivates individuals.
occasionally applies knowledge, skills in
practical situations.
occasionally cooperates with others.
1
sporadically comes to class prepared for
learning.
does not prepare material.
sporadically follows basic instructions.
sporadically listens and responds.
sporadically identifies criteria for evaluating.
sporadically demonstrates positive
interpersonal skills.
sporadically cooperates with others.
sporadically motivates individuals.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
The Basics of Long Hair
Wet or Dry?
If possible, it is best to work with dry hair. The only exception would be one where the client wanted a
style that wasn't the best for her hair type. In this case, the hair requires dampening with water in a
spray bottle, and adding gel or mousse, to hold the hair in place. Working with dry hair means the client
doesn't have to walk around with wet hair. Also, as hair dries, it shrinks. If a braid is comfortable while
the hair is wet, it will get tighter and uncomfortable as the hair dries. This could cause a headache for
the client, which might result in your loss of a customer. Some stylists like to work with wet, gelled hair
because it is easier to make it neat. This is true only if you have not perfected a hand position that stops
the hair from sliding as you work with it. This hand technique will be discussed further in the book, and
you will find that wet hair is no longer required to achieve neatness.
Tools of the Trade
Back-combing
If possible, it is best to work with dry hair. The only exception would be
one where the client wanted a style that wasn't the best for her hair
type. In this case, the hair requires dampening with water in a spray
bottle, and adding gel or mousse, to hold the hair in place. Working
with dry hair means the client doesn't have to walk around with wet
hair. Also, as hair dries, it shrinks. If a braid is comfortable while the
hair is wet, it will get tighter and uncomfortable as the hair dries. This
could cause a headache for the client, which might result in your loss
of a customer. Some stylists like to work with wet, gelled hair because it is easier to make it neat. This is
true only if you have not perfected a hand position that stops the hair from sliding as you work with it.
This hand technique will be discussed further in the book, and you will find that wet hair is no longer
required to achieve neatness.
There are only two tools needed to work with long hair. They are:
1. A large 11" tail comb.
2. A square paddle brush.
The large tail comb is eleven inches long, and is made of bone with 1/4" of space between the teeth. It is
used for detangling wet hair and for back-combing dry hair. The tail
portion of this comb is 6" long, which is required for making entire head
sections. It is also long enough to hold all the hair at one time.
The square, anti-static, paddle brush is perfect for long hair for three
reasons: First, these brushes usually have flexible rubber bristles. If you
are brushing the hair and come to a knot, the tip will bend and release
the hair rather than ripping through the knot which causes breakage.
Second, the rubber bristles are seated in a padded base which gives
when pressure is applied. This adds to the assurance that the hair is not
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
damaged or broken. And finally, removing hair from these brushes is easier than with other brushes.
These are the only tools necessary when creating the long hair designs you'll find in this book. If you find
other tools that work better you, feel free to use them.
These styles use no teasing, but a few will require small amounts of back-combing. Back-combing is
done by placing a comb underneath a strand of hair. Starting very close to the base, roll the comb and
apply medium pressure going against the cuticle layer. Usually back-combing a strand once or twice is
all that is needed to create the fullness required for these styles. Your goal is to make the strand you are
back-combing fuller, and to prevent it from splitting or opening when you work with that strand.
Step by step instructions on a variety of up-dos will be provided separate of this workbook.
Bobby Pins vs Hairpins
Bobby pins and hairpins look similar yet have a completely
different purpose. Bobby pins touch in the middle, and are
designed to hold weight. They are best suited when you need
to anchor a weighted curl, or when you change the direction
of the hair such as in the Bowtie or the French Twist with
backcombing. For direction changes, make sure the tips cross
each other. This gives them added strength in holding the hair
where you want it.
Hairpins are used to help place hair that has already been
secured with a bobby pin. For example, once a curl has been
placed and secured where you want it, you might decide to
spread the curl to make it wider. Spread the hair with your fingers, then secure with a hairpin to hold
the strands in the new position. A common question concerns the placement of pins in the hair. A basic
rule is to pin exactly where your fingers are holding the hair. Very often bobby pins are being inserted
next to the fingers holding the hair; when the stylist lets go, the hair moves to the new pinned position.
It takes a little practice, but it's worth it for perfect style placement every time.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
ROLLER SETS
Rollers are used to create many effects of the curling iron and pin curl.
Parts of a roller curler:
It is important for you to identify the 3 parts of a roller.
Base: The panel of hair on which the roller is placed. The base
should be the same length and width as the roller. The type of the
base affects the volume.
Stem: The hair between the scalp and first turn of the roller. The
stem gives the hair direction and mobility.
Curl: The hair that is wrapped around the roller. It determines the
size of the wave or curl.
There are three different types of rollers:
1. Magnetic or plastic rollers which are put into wet hair and secured with a roller clip.
They generally give a stronger set that lasts longer than other types of roller sets.
2. Velcro rollers which are put into the hair when it is dry and are used mainly for volume.
3. Hot rollers which are also put into dry hair and provide a more curly set than Velcro
rollers.
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Roller Placement
The size of the roller and how it sits on its base, will determine the volume achieved. The
general rule of thumb is the larger the roller, the greater the volume.
There are 3 kinds of bases:
On base.
For full volume, the roller sits
directly on its base. (Over direct
the strand slightly in front of the
base and roll the hair down to
the base. The roller should fit on
the base.
Half base.
For medium volume, the roller
sits halfway on its base, and
halfway behind the base. Hold
the strand straight up from the
head and roll the hair down.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
Off base.
For the least volume, the roller
sits completely off the base.
Hold the strand 45 degrees
down from the base and roll
the hair down.
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Assignment: History of the Pin Curl
You will research the history of the pin curl. What was hair like during this era? What was this
era? What replaced or followed the pin curl? When did finger waves become fashionable?
Describe hairstyles through the 60’s, 70’s and the 80’s. (You may add pictures) Did you find a
change through these eras? Are any of these decades similar to the styles that are worn today?
Hand in a written summary, neatness and spelling counts.
Worth: 30 marks
Assignment: Design a Tool
In groups of 2-3, design a styling tool that could have been helpful in the past eras or an
implement for today or something futuristic. Actual construct your own new implement (tool).
Using scrap materials such as paper towel, Kleenex box, rubber bands, pipe cleaners, egg
cartons, or even a paper mache technique. Make it as durable as possible. Be creative and have
FUN!
Worth: 50 marks.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Rubric for Pin Curl history & Tool design
Design Challenge
Categories
Incomplete
Level 1 (50-59%)
Level 2 (60-69%)
Written
Was unable to
communicate the history
of the pin curl. Lacking
in neatness and many
errors in spelling
Able to explain the
information with some
difficulty also the
spelling and neatness
needs to improve.
Design
Unable to complete a
design related to the
assignment.
Shows no original
thought or creativity in
design.
Able to select a design
with some difficulty.
Somewhat able to
explain information of
written assignment.
Neatness and spelling
need some
improvement.
Somewhat able to select
and portray a design.
Difficulty in portraying
creativity in design.
Somewhat able to
express creativity in
design.
Functionality
Shows no functionality
in design.
Shows difficulty in
portraying functionality
in design.
Somewhat able to show
functionality within the
design.
Overall
completion
Shows no effort in
project. Incomplete.
Shows difficulty in
portraying a complete
project.
Somewhat able to show
that effort has been put
into completion of the
project.
Creativity
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
Student:
Level 3(70-79%)
Able to appropriately
explain information on
the history of a pin curl.
Neatness and spelling
have shown great
improvement.
Able to appropriately
plan and portray a
design.
Able to appropriately
show creativity in design.
Able to appropriately
show that the design has
potential for great
functionality.
Able to appropriately
show great potential in
completion of the
project.
Page 33
Level 4 (80-100%)
Able to effectively
explain information on
the history of a pin curl.
Neatness is outstanding
and spelling shows no
errors.
Able to effectively plan
and portray an
outstanding design.
Able to show an
outstanding amount of
thought and creativity in
design.
Able to portray
outstanding
functionality in design.
Able to show
outstanding completion
of the project.
Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Safety:
1. Make sure that all rollers and clips are clean and sanitary to use.
2. When using hairspray while setting the hair, make sure that you direct the spray at the
hair and away from the face.
3. Hot rollers can easily burn both you and your client so make sure that you handle them
carefully (usually the prongs sticking out of the roller are not hot like the center and you
can pick them up by holding these) and do not put them directly against the clients
skin.
4. Do not overheat the hair when you place the client under the dryer.
5. Put everything away when you are finished using it.
6. Make sure that the metal roller clips do not touch the scalp or ear since they get very
hot from the heat of the dryer.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Activity: Wet Styling
Starting in the text books on page 304 of the Milady textbook, answer the following
questions.
1. List the six tools required for wet hairstyling.
_____________
_____________
______________
_____________
_____________
______________
2. A finger wave is _________________________________________
______________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________
3. What does fingerwaving help develop?
______________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________
4. Pin curls serve as the basis for ______________________________
______________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________
5. Name the three parts of a finger wave and give a description of each.
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
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6. What are the three classifications of curl mobility? Give a description of
each. ______________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
7. Roller curls are used to create ____________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
8. What are the three advantages of rollers over pin curls?
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
9. List the three parts of a roller curl and give a description of each.
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
10. The relationship between the _______________ and the
_____________________ will determine whether the result will be a C shape, a wave, or
a curl.
11. Draw an example of each of the three shape curls.
C-shape
Wave
Curl
12. The ___________ and how it is ________________ on its _______________ will
determine the _____________ achieved.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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13. What are the three kinds of bases and give a description of each.
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
15. Draw the angle at which you would hold the angle of the hair to
achieve the following.
Full Volume
Medium Volume
Less Volume
16. List the implements needed for a wet set with rollers.
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
17. What are the two best ways to create lift and increase volume?
______________________________________________________________
18. What is the purpose of back-combing and back brushing?
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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19. How has these techniques changed since the 1950's?
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
20. What are the implements needed for combing out a wet set?
__________________
_____________________
__________________
_____________________
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Roller Set Design Techniques
Roller Set #1
_____________________________________________________________________________________
Roller Set #2
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Roller Set #3
_____________________________________________________________________________________
Roller Set #4
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Roller Set #5
_____________________________________________________________________________________
Roller Set #6
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Roller Set #7
_____________________________________________________________________________________
Roller Set #8
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Roller Set #9
_____________________________________________________________________________________
Roller Set #10
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Activity: Rubric for Roller Set Design Techniques
Choose 3 different sets and have your teacher grade them. Let the style overnight air dry to follow
through with a comb-out.
Roller Set ___
Roller Set ___
Roller Set ___
No fish hooks (5)
Proper placement
of Clips (2)
Proper placement
of rollers (5)
Proper use of
tools (5)
Even Sections (4)
Comb-out (6)
Clean Up (3)
TOTAL (30)
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Long Hair Up Do
Mark: ______________ /80 marks
Excellent =4 Very good = 3 Satisfactory = 2 Not satisfactory = 1 Request help = 0
0
1
2
3
4
0
1
2
3
4
ROLLER PLACEMENT
o
Appropriate for style being created
o
Appropriate roller size for amount of curl desired
o
Base size appropriate for type of style
o
Rollers pinned at center base
o
Clean partings
o
Hair wound neatly around rollers
o
Tension
o
Creativity
COMB-OUT
o
Even/Proportional
o
Balance
o
Bobby pins hidden
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
o
Bobby pins snug (hairstyle not loose)
o
Herring bone bobby pins
o
No dents
o
Sufficient amount of back combing
o
Completed within time limit
o
Creativity
o
Finishing
o
Effective use of time
o
Supplies sanitized and put in proper place
Efficiency
Clean-up
Total: _____________
Comments:
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Activity: Client Consultation
The design process is collaboration between stylist and client, beginning with the client consultation.
Ellen, a new client at the salon, has just met Nicole, who is going to style her hair.
Write out a sample dialogue that should/could occur between the two people.
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Activity: Wedding Hair Disaster
My wedding has been planned for the past two years (for Dec of this
year). My bridesmaids and I have been growing our hair for almost
two year so that we could have long flowing locks to go with the theme
of the wedding. I have always been complimented on my lovely hair,
but felt my hair needed a bit of curl for the wedding. I thought if I got a
perm now, it would still have a nice wave by the time December comes.
I requested a consultation with the hairdresser who assured me that (when I told her I home
colored my hair and asked if my hair was suitable for a perm) that it was strong hair and the
perm would look lovely and that she would charge me $140. So I went ahead and had the perm.
I felt the apprentice left the solution on for too long, they didn’t check my hair for a long time and
after they checked it the apprentice did not do a thorough in rinsing the solution off - especially
the nape area. When they were taking the rods out my hair was breaking off so they had to cut
some off (that upset me!). They gave me a complimentary card for a treatment and told me to
come back next week.
I said I wanted to go home and let it dry naturally - well by the time it dried naturally it dried into
a big dried out fuzz ball sticking straight up into the air! I did not sleep all night and first thing in
the morning I went back to the salon in tears.
They gave me a free treatment - said it looked over processed and I went back four times (free
treatments) with no improvement, each time they had to cut more hair off/or it just broke off most of the underneath hair had to be cut off at the scalp! I have been too embarrassed to be
seen in public or go to work.
I have spent hundreds of dollars with "fixing protein products etc" which hasn't helped much.
Other hairdressers tell me when the hair is damaged to this extent the best thing is to cut it all
off. I have postponed my wedding as I have lost my confidence and feel I would have an
unhappy wedding day looking like this. I have considered a wig--- that may be the next option. I
have not been back to the original hairdressers as I cannot face it, but have written a letter of
complaint to them
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Can I Complain To the Salon?
Write out in essay format, a sample dialogue that should occur.
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Activity: You and Your Hair
Are you completely happy with your hair? What woman is? Either your
hair is too straight, too curly, too long to be an ice-cool blonde or vice
versa. In fact, in a perverse way we always want the opposite of what we
have.
Hairdressers and hair care manufacturers have kept pace with the demands of the modern
woman, and now virtually anyone with straight hair can go curly, and literally any colour under
the sun is possible, from subtle chestnut to fuchsia pink. But before we get carried away ravenhaired locks, let’s take a look at your hair in its natural state and see what you can do to improve
it.
WORKING FROM THE INSIDE OUT
Over the last few years a great deal has been written about the importance of a healthy
diet and regular exercise. Indeed, hardly a month goes by without one of the popular woman’s
magazines bringing to our attention just how unfit we all are. These days it is impossible to
avoid the fact that a balanced diet and exercise not only help you to maintain a healthy body
internally, but also keep those outward signs of good health: clean skin, bright eyes, strong nails
and glossy, bouncy hair, in tip top condition.
Eyes, skin, nails and hair are perfect indicators of how well we are functioning. If you are
feeling a little off color, your skin begins to look pale and sallow; the eyes become dull and lose
their sparkle; nails suddenly start to flake and your hair lacks luster, becoming limp and lifeless.
We have all looked in a mirror when we have felt under the weather and seen these signs for
ourselves. Obviously this indicates that when goes on inside is soon reflected on the outside
and logically, a poor diet which does not give the body all the nutrients it needs to function
properly, will soon take its toll on our hair and skin.
How can diet affect your skin? Once your hair appears above the surface of the scalp it is
already dead, so it’s beneath the skin that all the action takes place. The indentation in the skin
from which hair protrudes is called the hair follicle and at the base of the follicle is a minute
nodule called the papilla. Very simply, the papilla is like a small factory producing and feeding
the cells, which form our hair. So, even if you do accidentally pull out some of your hair by the
roots, providing the papilla is still functioning, the hair will grow again. For our small factory to
work properly it needs an efficient blood supply, which it turn carries the basic requirements to
ensure continued factory production-digested protein (amino-acids). Stop supplying the basic
raw materials and like any factory, it will slowly stop producing and eventually grind to a halt.
This does not mean that you have to live on a diet of pure protein for your hair’s sake. In
fact this would be extremely bad for you. Simply ensure that you have a healthy diet- plenty of
fresh fruit, lean meat, vegetables and salads. High grade proteins such as fish, eggs, cheese,
milk and meat are particularly beneficial, as they are rich in nitrogen and sulphur essential for
healthy hair growth. Avoid too many sweets, chocolates, cakes and biscuits and beware of
being too heavy-handed with animal fats. Drink plenty of water, at least eight glasses a day to
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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clear your system and remember to include some whole-wheat cereal, bread or bran in your diet
to supply the necessary fiber content.
If the thought of exercise makes you groan, then just think of the good it will do you.
Working out to music can be fun. Pretend you are auditioning for a dance group such as “Hot
Gossip” rather than doing repetitive, boring physical jerks and enjoy yourself. Remember as you
leap around, that your oxygen intake increases, your pulse rate raises and your circulation is
stimulated. As efficient circulation means that every part of your body is being well supplied with
blood; this includes the blood vessels (capillaries), which supply the papilla with its raw material:
digested protein.
Now we come to a very important point; learn to relax. Tension and nervous strain not only
makes you irritable, even ill at times, but can also bring about disorders of the hair and scalp. I
know it is not easy in this day and age, but try to pace yourself, organize your day and count to
ten when you feel the pressure building up. Incidentally exercise is a
marvelous way of working off nervous energy and clearing the mind.
Having dealt with the way you can help your hair from the inside, we
can now concentrate on the part which is visible; the hair shaft.
Every strand of hair consists of three basic layers. The outer layer is
called the cuticle and plays an important part in how our hair looks and
feels. This layer could be compared to the scales of a fish. It consists of a series of overlapping
scales, which may be up to seven layers in thickness. The cuticle protects the structure of the
cortex; here we find nearly all our natural color pigment, melanin. It is this layer, which provides
the hair with its strength, texture and elasticity. In fact, curly and all types of hairstyling depends
on temporary alterations to the structure of the cortex. In the centre, which is the medulla; the
function of the medulla is unknown and in some cases it is missing altogether. But don’t worry
whether you have a medulla or not, the hair doesn’t seem to suffer without it.
On average we have 90,000 to 140,000 strands of hair on our heads. Naturally blond
people have slightly more than brunettes and the people with lower than average hair density
are usually the red-heads. Strongly, redheads often look as though they have thick hair because
it tends to be a course texture, while blondes will have fine hair, which can look limp and thin.
This brings us neatly to texture and density, two terms, which are often confused. Texture
generally refers to the quality of one single strand and density to the amount of hair on your
head. Density is the amount of hairs per square inch. These two terms are very important to
your when deciding on a new hairstyle.
Fine hair tends to be soft and flyaway; if it is thin as well then styles usually work best, and
a soft perm will add body giving the appearance of thicker hair. Fine, thick (dense) hair can be
grown longer and works well when cut into short or long bob lines.
If your hair is fine but naturally curly, then use the curl as much as possible. Curly styles
are so attractive that it is a shame to spend time and money creating a sleek style.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Medium-textured hair is very versatile, responding well to perms, setting and blow-drying.
Virtually any style is suitable, depending on your physical characteristics.
Coarse hair often looks thick and heavy, think of redheads or oriental
girls. Sharp, geometric cuts can look superb but if your hair is on the thin
side, stick to reasonably short styles. Naturally curly, coarse hair is inclined
to have a mind of its own and needs careful cutting to prevent it from
looking bushy and unruly.
By now you should have a good idea as to the quality and texture of
your hair. Sit down in front of the mirror and try to be really objective. Do
you have masses of hair or is it only wishful thinking? If a single strand of hair feels pure as silk
then it is probably fine-textured. If, on the other hand, it feels more like a strand of cotton then it
means you are blessed with coarse hair. Medium-textured hair falls somewhere in between.
Having assessed your hair you should try to accept it, along with all its limitations. Learn to be
happy with what nature has given you and work with it rather than against it.
As mentioned earlier, hairdressers and manufactures can work wonders combining good
products and expert skills but it’s your understanding of the basic raw material that makes the
difference.
One interesting fact that proves just how individual we all are is
the use of hair in crime detection. Some experts claim that a strand of
hair from a suspect when subjected to certain tests can identify
characteristics, including age, sex, blood group, illness and drug use.
So when you hear the phrase, “No two heads are alike”, and you will
know that it is true.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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You and Your Hair Questions
After reading the article, answer the following questions on the following piece of paper in
full proper sentences – grammar and spelling count.
1. What is your hair color and how much body or curl do you have?
2. What are the four signs of good health?
3. What are the four indicators that we are functioning well?
4. If you are not feeling well what do the following look like? (skin, eyes, nails, and hair)
5. Where is the hair fed and produced?
6. What is a healthy diet?
7. What should you avoid?
8. How much water should you drink daily?
9. What does exercise do for your body?
10. Name three things you do to help yourself relax?
11. Name the three layers of the hair and describe their function?
12. How many strands of hair are on our heads?
13. Name the hair color that is most dense and least dense.
14. Define texture and density.
15. What kind of hair do you have? Describe its texture and density.
16. What are the five characteristics that can be determined with certain tests done on the
hair?
17. Find a partner and write down their name. Analyze their hair and describe their texture
and density.
18. Does your partner agree with you? Why/why not?
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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.
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Notes:
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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Notes:
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
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REVIEW
1. No matter what the client says during a client consultation, what he or she really
wants is a style that is ____________________ and easy to maintain.
2. Open center curls produce even, ________________ waves and uniform curls.
3. In __________________ finger waving, ridges are parallel around the head.
4. One complete turn-around the roller will create a ___________________ curl.
5. The art of shaping and directing the hair into alternate parallel waves and designs is
________________________
6. The three parts of a pin curl are the _______________, ________________, and
____________________.
7. The finished result will be determined by the ____________________- you place the
stem of the curl.
8. Curls formed in the opposite direction of the movement of the hands of a clock are
known as _______________________.
9. Forcing a strand of hair through a comb while applying pressure with the thumb on
the back of the comb to create tension is called ______________________.
10. _________________ are used to create many of the same effects as stand-up pin
curls.
11. Two and a half turns around the roller will create __________________.
12. Curls formed in the same direction as the movement of the hands of a clock are
known as ____________________.
13. The most commonly shaped base you will use is the ______________ base.
14. Cascade or ________________ curls are used to create height.
15. For the least volume, the rollers sits ______________ base.
16. Tools and implements required in wet hairstyling include rollers, clips, combs,
brushes and _________________.
17. Waving lotion makes the hair ________________ and keeps it in place during the
finger waving procedure.
18. A _______________ curl allows for the greatest mobility.
19. Waving lotion is applied to one side of the head at a time to prevent
________________.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
20. _____________ provide the bases for patterns, lines, waves, curls and rolls that you
can use to create hairstyles.
21. Closed center curls produce waves that ______________ in size.
22. Do not try to increase the height or depth of a ridge by _______________ or
______________ with fingers.
23. Waving lotion is made from ______________________ gum.
24. A loose roller will lose its ________________ and result in a weak set.
25. Secure finger waves with ____________________ if needed.
26. In ____________________ finger waving, ridges run up and down the head.
27. Back brushing is also known as _________________.
28. _________________ is a firm-bodied and usually clear or transparent product that
comes in a tube or bottle and has a strong hold.
29. To ensure that the curl holds firmly, it should be __________________ correctly.
30. Pin curls recommended at the side front hairline for smooth upsweep effect are
_________________ bases.
31. Pin curls sliced from a shaping without lifting hair from the head are referred to as
__________________ curls.
32. For full volume, the roller sits __________________ base.
33. Large stand-up pin curls on a rectangular base with large center openings are known
as __________________curls.
34. Teasing, ratting, matting, or French lacing are also known as __________________.
35. ___________________ or wax add considerable weight to the hair by causing
strands to join together.
36. A _____________ stem curl produces a tight, firm, long lasting curl.
37. _____________________ add gloss and sheen to the hair while creating textural
definition.
38. A _____________________ curl is a wave behind the ridge.
39. The most widely used hairstyling product is hair spray or __________________
spray.
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
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Principles of Hair Design TXJ3E
Word Bank for Review
Words or terms may be used more than once or not at all.
Anchored
Arc
Back combing
Barrel
Base
C-shaped
Carved
Circle
Circular
Clockwise
Counterclockwise
Curls
cylinder
Decrease
Direction
Drying
Finger waving
Flattering
Full
Gel
Karay
Finishing
Full
Hairpins
Horizontal
Indentation
Adapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources
PART 3: HAIR CARE
Invisible
No
Oblong
Off
On
Pinching
Pin curls
Pins
Pliable
Pomade
Pushing
Rectangular
Ribboning
Ridge
Rollers
Ruffing
Shallow
Silicone shiners
Smooth
Square
Stand-up
Stem
Tapered
Tension
Vertical
Visible
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