Cochenille’s Garment Designer and
Softbyte’s DesignaKnit:
Can These Two Programs Be Used in
Tandem?
Cathie Sanders
Both Cochenille’s Garment Designer and
Softbyte’s DesignaKnit are powerful computer
programs used by machine knitters. Although
both programs can be incorporated into other
handcraft and fabric uses, the main concept of
this experiment was for use with knitting
machines.
Both of these programs can easily stand
on their own. Each has elements of similarity
such as the ability to enter custom sizes, show a
body block, change a shape by manipulating
points, change from inches to centimeters or the
reverse, qualify ease, produce a printed pattern in
half or full size as well as an instructions page,
and add or remove hems and bands.
Both programs have their own strengths.
Garment Designer has many standard shapes with
various options for the knitter to work with,
including basic, contoured, princess and empire
in the pullover alone. This standard shaping
program also contains skirts, pants, and dresses,
and additional shapes may be purchased
separately. Bust and waist darts, even double
darts, may be added automatically. Various
neckline treatments, including various collars,
and sleeve types are available at the click of a
mouse. Measurements for each part of the pattern
may be shown in inches or centimeters. With
another mouse click, actual stitch and row counts
are shown. The mode may also be changed from
knitting to sewing. This feature would definitely
appeal to the knitter who also sews.
DesignaKnit has Original Pattern
Drafting which allows the knitter to create totally
new shapes or change standard shapes at will.
Manipulation of shapes or creation of new shapes
is easy. Shapes may be created from various
sources other than standard designs, including
sewing patterns or sketches. The designer may
indicate various ways to knit slopes. Designaknit
also has a powerful Graphics Studio, which
allows the machine knitter to import various files,
changing them into color patterns,
including .bmp, .jpg, .gif, .pcx, .png, and .tif. The
knitter may use a resource such as the internet to
find thousands of free graphics for use with
fairisle, intarsia, and double jacquard.
Designaknit also has Interactive Knitting,
perhaps its most popular feature By using a
specific cable, knitters may download their own
patterns into electronic machines. Then, using
the same feature, the knitter may use the
computer screen as a pattern source while knitting
the shape or the shape integrated with the color
pattern, following instructions indicated by a tone
or a voice. Punchcard users may print out
patterns for their cards and then use the
interactive feature. Manual machine owners may
hand select needles while using the interactive
feature. No paper pattern needs to be generated.
Directions are given directly on the screen for
stitch increases, decreases, cast on and cast off,
and stitches to be put into hold
DesignaKnit’s Interactive Knitting
feature has caused a question has been raised: Is
there a way for a shape to be produced in
Garment Designer and then imported into
DesignaKnit so the Interactive Knitting Feature
can be used. If so, the ease of creating shapes in
Garment Designer combined with DesignaKnit’s
Knit from Screen feature would give the machine
knitter many more choices and opportunities to
knit unique items.
My first step was to create two different
shapes in Garment Designer. The first was a very
simple basic shape with a round neckline and
tapered sleeves. The second shape was a more
complicated princess shape with a scoop neckline
and semi-flared sleeves. For both shapes, a
standard gauge of 8 spi and 11 rpi was used, and
a standard size 12 was chosen.
Although I had been told that previous
success had been attained by bringing the shape
into Cochneille’s Stitch Painter and from there
into DesignaKnit, I decided to try skipping the
step involving Stitch Painter by bringing the
Garment Designer shape into the DesignaKnit
Graphic Studio. I began at that point, starting
with the basic shape. I input the necessary
information in for this shape, excluding any band
treatment. I ended up with three pieces: front,
back, and sleeve.
Then, using the drop-down menu, I clicked on
Generate: Pattern
Pixel Per Stitch
Graphics. I now had
a new shape,
indicated by a change
in color.
From this
graphic, I clicked on the Front piece and then
clicked on Edit: Copy.
Next, I opened the DesignaKnit Graphic
Studio. I could have saved the front as a graphic
file and then imported it
into Graphics Studio.
However saving the
shape to the clipboard
was very easy and
quick. I opened it by
clicking on Edit, Paste.
I then manipulated the
size and the colors so I would end up with a
knitable, two-color graphic. Because I had been
able to use Pixel Per Stitch, I did not have to
adjust anything to come out with the stitch and
row gauge I had specific for this garment.
The shape was then opened in Stitch
Designer as a new color pattern of 182 stitches by
283 rows. Using my original gauge of 8 spi, I
have 22.75 inches. My row gauge of 11 rpi give
me 25.7 inches. The total width of the garment
would be 45.5 inches, only ½ inch larger than
DesignaKnit’s standard size 40, the equivalent to
a size 12. I could have specified a longer or
shorter garment in Garment Designer, but I chose
the default length.
I then took this pattern into Interactive
Knitting. I did have to treat it as a two-color
fairisle color pattern, not a shape. However,
because only the
white color showed
from the sides and
bottom of the pattern,
Front
L. Sleev e
Back
DesignaKnit saw the cast
on and beginning rows as a
single color.
DesignaKnit told
me to add the second color
in on row count 172, the
shaping row for the right armhole. However, I
was not given the usual prompt of number of
stitches to bind off for this shaping because
DesignaKnit cannot see this
as a shape. I changed the
needle bed view so I could
see exactly which needles
are to be knitted with the
black color, knowing these
stitches are the ones I needed to bind off for the
shaping. The same held true for the back and
tapered sleeves.
Although the Interactive Knitting process
was not as fast as when I work with a shape
generated by DesignaKnit, my experiment with
the basic shape showed it could be knitted using
this feature. Of course, my interest was not in the
basic shape, but in those shapes which
DesignaKnit does not contain, such as the
Princess shaping I chose for the next step.
The Princess shape with a scoop neck
shows the internal shape that must be knitted to
achieve this look. Unlike DesignaKnit, Garment
Designer has the ability to show internal darts and
shaping. With the current fashion trends toward
Front
Lef t Sleev e
Back
more fitted garments, this ability is a real plus for
the knitter. The machine knitter has two options
in knitting this shape. One, she may move
stitches in from both sides to form a type of
knitted dart. Two, she may mark these stitches
and sew in a dart after the piece is knitted. My
personal preference would be the first method.
Using the same method as I described
with the basic shape, I generated the Pixel Per
Stitch Graphic and
brought the front
piece into Graphic
Studio and then
into Stitch
Designer.
I ended up with a color
pattern made up of 188
by 288. As this shape
suggests, there will be
internal and external
shaping, making a fitted
core.
In Interactive Knitting, this design would
have only a very limited number of rows when
the black was not shown in the second feeder.
This second
feeder carries
the contrasting
yarn, which
would knit on
the selected
needles. If the
knitter took care
to push the
needles back to working position, she could allow
them to be selected row by row if she were
working on a Brother/Knitking machine. She
might then be able to see which stitches needed to
be transferred for shaping. If she is using a
Studio/Silver Reed machine, however, the
needles for the second color are not brought to
upper working position, so those stitches would
drop off the needles. Of course, she could knit in
two colors, letting the second color knit. Then
she could remove the second color, transferring
those stitches as necessary.
Frankly, I think both of these methods
would be tedious. I would prefer to check the
screen, row by row, for shaping. Since the needle
bed is showing in its largest mode, I would find it
easier to use the needle bed graphic to see which
stitches needed to be moved by either increasing
or decreasing. This style is complex, and even a
printed pattern would need to be followed on a
row by row basis.
As with the basic shape, DesignaKnit did
not give its usual sounds to notify the knitter of
neckline shaping. Neither was the hem rounding
or the shoulder slope given. Although the bottom
could be rounded by shortrowing, DesignaKnit
did not give instructions for that method. Instead
stitches were added by casting on until row count
4, when all needles necessary were in work.
Shoulder stitches were not shown as being placed
in hold.
The flared sleeve
had basically the same
problem as the body.
Both colors are shown
from the beginning since
the sleeve bottom may
either be shortrowed or cast on in sections.
Shaping would need to be done using the same
method as the body: checking the screen row by
row.
On the plus side of this experiment was
the ability to knit a shape not generated by
DesignaKnit. Since DesignaKnit does not have
an internal dart available, using Garment
Designer for shapes with darts would save time
otherwise spent figuring out dart needles as well
as the length and width of the dart. On the
negative side is the fact that DesignaKnit does not
treat this pattern as a shape, but tries to knit it as a
color pattern.
My conclusion is that, by using both
programs, one could have many more
opportunities than by using either one alone. But,
I would not recommend that a beginning knitter
attempt to try this experiment. The knitter should
be familiar with various techniques such as
making a dart, shortrowing a shoulder or the
bottom of a garment, and understanding the more
complex shapes before embarking on working
with both these programs at once..
As I explored Garment Designer more, I
found that perhaps a better answer may not be
using the Stitch Designer as the point that brings
these programs together. Garment Designer will
print out a pattern that gives shaping by
measurement and row count. For example, on
row count 100 the outside decrease shaping is
done. Dimensions or actual measurements in
inches may also be generated for each section.
For example, with the gauge I used, the outside
decrease is finished at 9 inches into the knitted
body. By printing out these instructions and a
copy of the shape file, I believe it would be easy
to draw the shape in DesignaKnit in Original
Pattern Drafting. Then the shape could be used
as a shape in Interactive Knitting. Such care as is
needed when a color pattern is used would not be
necessary when a shape pattern is used.
DesignaKnit would readily alert the knitter when
transfers or shaping had to be made.
The exception to this would be those
shapes with internal darts. DesignaKnit is not
capable of drawing an internal dart. In one
method, markers could be added to the shape to
alert the knitter of those rows which require a dart
treatment. Knowledge of such shaping would be
needed before such a shape could be knit using
this method. But for a knitter with this
knowledge, adding markers would be an easy
thing to do. Another method would be to split the
front into three pieces, each shaped to simulate
both the outside curve and the inside dart.
Taking less than 10 minutes, I quickly
split a front piece and
added the curves for
the outside shaping
and the inside dart. I
also added the
beginning of the
shoulder shaping. If I
intended to use this
piece as a shape
piece, I definitely would have spent more time on
it, tweaking the actual dart lengths. But my goal
at this time was to see if I could recreate the
shape in Original Pattern Drafting.
However, when I
joined the three pieces, all
the internal shaping was
lost. DesignaKnit
automatically filled in the
darts in the center of the
shape.
I can take one section of the front piece
into Interactive Knitting. The default for
DesignaKnit is to center the piece on the knitting
bed, so if I wanted the shape for this piece while I
am knitting the entire front, I would need to
bypass the needle numbers. I do know that each
of the three sections have the same number of
needles in
work at the
beginning,
but the
center
section has
the neckline
shaping. On
the plus
side,
however, I
now have the sounds signaling various shape
changes. Also, by using the Original Pattern
Drafting section, I would be able to stipulate the
type of shaping I prefer: stitches in hold,
decreasing, or binding off; although I do intend to
pursue this avenue more fully. My goal is to use
the princess shape from Garment Designer and
find the best way to knit it using DesignaKnit’s
Interactive Knitting. That will be my next
experiment: to see how such a complex shape
can best be brought into DesignaKnit from
Garment Designer so the Interactive Knitting
feature can be best used.
But then, at the end of my own
experiment, another accomplished knitter, DAK
and GD user, Naomi Schofield of Brussels,
Belgium, found what may be the best way to
bring a shape from Garment Designer into
DesignaKnit Original Drafting. When she shared
her findings with me, I was delighted with her
success and immediately asked her if I could
share the findings with you.
Method A: Using tracing paper. Naomi
used screen tracing design software from Screen
Tracing Paper (www.iconico.com/tracingPaper).
Please read the Help section in their website to
familiarise yourself with the toolbars. They do
have a free trial program you could download,
and the actual program is very inexpensive.
First, draft your pattern in GD and scale
your final design to either 1/4 or 1/6. A more
accurate result is obtained using these scales
compared to “scale to fit.” Keep using chosen
scale throughout this exercise.
Click on your drawing as shown below to
activate the points used in shaping the garment.
We will use the pattern collar style, princess
shoulder fit template. The pattern can also serve
as your facing should you decide to knit one.
Activate your Tracing
Paper. Click on GD
square points to trace
them. Going clockwise
from lower left corner
around the shape may be
easier than starting
anywhere at random.
Open DAK’s original pattern drafting
section. Create new piece. Turn off all symmetry
toolbars. This being the only piece, it will be
centered.
Note: Of course if you are reconstructing
a piece which has a symmetrical shape, you can
turn on symmetry. You only have to reconstruct
half the side and the other side is automatically
done for you.
Note: Square Pins easier
to use when tracing the
pattern. Of course, you
are free to use any pins
you want. The goal is get
as close as possible to
your pattern.
Open Screen Tracing Paper. Note the
number of points you will need in reconstructing
your pattern. Here we need a minimum of 3
points on the left, 2 on top, and 4 at the bottom.
Click on DAK’s + sign to add them on the
appropriate sides of the piece.
I will trace the front side
panel first.
Here is the
completed
front panel.
Optional:
you may
further
control the
points if
they need
moving by
using Iconico’s
Magnifier
software,
available at the
same website
as the tracing
paper.
Screen
tracing
paper
tools
Important note: The traced image disappears
when you activate your DAK window. No panic –
you can put it back on again by clicking
ALT+TAB. It helps if you place your left hand on
these two keys when retracing.
Start reconstructing your pattern by
dragging points as close as possible to the traced
design. You may want to control further the
points by using Magnifier.
Refer to your GD pattern and take note of
the height and width of the piece. Enter these in
DAK using the Length and Width tools.
Next, following the same steps and
starting with a new block, trace your front side
panel.
Now we have two finished pieces. Your
DAK pattern may need further work: removing
unwanted points, straightening lines, and
comparing measured segments to that of GD.
You can adjust your piece either by using the
Table of Xs and Ys or just by dragging the points.
Close up of collar area
with exact measurements.
Don’t be alarmed if your copy is off by a few
millimetres. That’s one of the wonderful things
about knits: they are forgiving!
Now, if you have decided that you don’t
want to use the extra software, there is a way
around that. Since we are, after all, tracing, you
could print out your copy of the Garment
Designer garment on tracing paper or a
transparency sheet. Then, using a non-abrasive
tape such as masking tape, fix the paper to your
monitor. Then move the points in Original
Drafting to match the image you have taped to the
screen.
The positive side of this method is you
now have pieces in Original Drafting that you can
transfer to Interactive Knitting. Because of the
nature of the princess seam, you would need to
knit these pieces separately and then sew them
together. But you would definitely end up with a
garment design that is not currently available in
DesignaKnit.
While I would not use this method for a
basic shape, I do like it for the more complicated
shapes. Whether you use the tracing paper
software or simply use your monitor as a light
box, I believe this method is much easier than the
method I was originally using. Thank you,
Naomi!
Since both these programs have their own
strengths, using them together would definitely
open up many more opportunities for the machine
knitter. However, the machine knitter would
have to decide which transfer method would work
best for her.
Information about Garment Designer by
Cochenille, a California company, may be found
on their website: http://www.cochenille.com.
Also on the site is a list of events where
the program will be demoed as well as a list of
dealers, both in North America and
internationally, at http://www.cochenille.com/
dist.html. Twice a year, the company offers
special package pricing.
DesignaKnit is produced by Softbyte, an
English company with a web site at http://
www.softbyte.com, and can be purchased from
Northtipton.
If you have questions about either of
these programs, please send them to me.
Happy Knitting!
Cathie Sanders
Northtipton Creations