TM International exhibition for fibres, yarns for clothing and upholstery, knitwear and knitted fabrics 3 rd september 2013 spinexpo TM 22 nd edition daily journal TM p.2 > Happening/News p.2 > Market information p.3 > Products p.4 > Trends p.4 > Spinexpo Cool Japan Textile Technology Growth in Apparel Sales Forecasted for Asia, Latin America Cashmere, the Ultimate Luxury Seminars at the show Behind the trends at SpinexpoTM Keep the dates! Shanghai edito Sophie Steller Studio Behind the trends at SPINEXPOTM Seminars at the show today > see p.3 happeniNg/news D eveloped in collaboration with Sophie Steller Studio, SPINEXPO’s seasonal trend book is eagerly awaited, and the Trend Forum at each exhibition is a festival of color, texture, and knitting expertise. For Autumn/Winter 2014/15, the trends are based on the theme of Interactions, drawing from our human need to communicate, connect, and use colour as a new language. The range explores colour tonally, linking it to emotions and our personal world views, in eight rich and expressive palettes: Humanity, Spirituality, Survival, Beauty, Rituals, Emotions, Origins, and Dreams. >> p 4 Cool Japan Textile Technology Bringing New Ideas to SPINEXPO TM > see p.2 Cashmere, the Ultimate Luxury The catwalks for Spring 2013 were full of eye-catching knitwear in shimmering metallics and morphing, space-dyed tonalities. Many cashmere spinners have their own knitting and garment manufacturing, allowing them to customize orders, turn quickly, and control prices M ore on-trend than ever, nothing feels like cashmere, with its softness, fine texture and light weight warmth. “After many years of flooding the market with poor quality products, today the spinners are investing time and innovative technology to refine and produce cashmere yarns that reinvent our perception of what cashmere means,” says Ms. Sophie Steller, Trend Director for SPINEXPOTM. China, Mongolia, Afghanistan, Iran, and Turkey are the major suppliers of raw cashmere wool. The wool is obtained from the neck hair of cashmere goats, which produce a double fleece of a fine, downy undercoat as well as the coarser guard hair. The wool is washed and de-haired to separate the finer underhair; the resulting fibre has an average diameter of under 19 microns. Spinners and garment producers in Scotland, Italy, and Japan have long been recognized as market leaders for pure cashmere products, including renowned brands such as Todd & Duncan, Loro Piana, Biella by Südwolle, and Cariaggi. Recently Chinese spinners including Ningbo Consinee, Hongye Cashmere, Ningxia Zhongyin Cashmere, Hebei Taihe, Shanghai Junyang Cashmere, and UPW (Guangdong United Progress Wooltex) have joined the ranks of these highvalue producers. Many of these spinners control their own supply of raw cashmere wool, a major advantage during times of fluctuating supplies and prices. Mr. Kevin Feng of Hongye Cashmere explains, “Cashmere is not as standardized as wool; you must understand the raw material. Our specialty is that we understand the fibre, and can control the quality.” The purchase of Todd & Duncan by its major supplier, Ningxia Zhongyin Cashmere, in 2009 guaranteed the venerable Scottish company a consistent supply of the best cashmere, all from one place, and all traceable, according to Todd & Duncan’s Sales Director, Mr. Bruce Cameron. Many cashmere spinners have their own knitting and garment manufacturing, allowing them to customize orders, turn quickly, and control prices. Loro Piana, >> p 3 TM Happening/News Market information Growth in Apparel Sales Forecasted “Cool Japan Textile Technology” Bringing New Ideas to SPINEXPO TM SPINEXPO is delighted to welcome knitting machine and technology supplier Shima Seiki, along with Japanese yarn spinner Nikko Textile, to its September 2013 edition in Shanghai. for Asia, Latin America Mr. Yoichi Mizuno, General Manager of Nikko Textile Corporation While European and UK economies are experiencing record low growth, retailers and apparel manufacturers can seek opportunity in a number of emerging economies, according to two new market reports. The 2012 Global Retail Development Index from A.T. Kearney Global Consumer Institute, a wordwide network of professionals and executives, concludes “Given the accelerated growth rates of developing countries compared to the anemic growth in European and North American markets, global retailers must have a strategy for expansion into developing markets.” Retail sales growth in China and India remains positive and is expected to be in double-digits. While China is one of the world’s largest markets for luxury goods, with over 100 brands, inflationary pressures drove up rents by 30% in 2012, and labour costs are growing by 15% per year. Organized retail penetration of global brands remains low in India, indicating room for growth. The Kearney report calls out the expanding retail sector and strong economic growth of Latin American economies such as Brazil, Chile and Uruguay. Retail sales in Brazil have expanded by 12% per year for each of the past four years, and imports grew at a rate of 52.5% in 2011. From 2012 to 2017, retail demand for clothing is expected to grow by double digits in Chile, China, India, Indonesia, Peru, Russia, Saudi Arabia, and South Aftrica, according to Textile Intelligence’ most recent analysis. Brazil, Columbia, Poland, Thailand, and Turkey are forecasted to see a high single digit increase in demand for apparel. The Textile Intelligence report noted that the number of Chinese households with annual earnings over an equivalent of $50,000 USD is expected to increase five-fold from 2010 to 2015. The country’s rapid urbanisation is driving an increased retail demand for clothing. In India, a growing middle class of 300 million is adopting international trends at a rapid rate, seeking access to world class products. As the leading exposition for yarn spinners, knitters, and knitwear brands on an international level, Spinexpo’s exhibitors and visitors have the opportunity to learn and participate in these global economic developments. n T duction to begin once design approval is given. The entire process saves time and money, reduces mistakes and material waste, and prevents bottlenecks. Mr. Ikuto Umeda, CEO of Shima Seiki (Hong Kong) Ltd, views the current manufacturing scenario as untenable for the future. While the garment industry in China and other Asian countries has benefitted from cheap labour, China’s one-child policy is resulting in a labour shortage, and government-mandated wage increases are driving up prices. For example, SPINEXPOTM exhibitor Cariaggi recently launched their Filato Digitale (Digital Yarn) project developed in collaboration with Shima Seiki Italia, making digital colour charts available to Cariaggi clients who use the Shima system. An Epson scanner scans the yarn – using Proper Gauge, a tool developed by Shima Seiki – and the software then creates the different colour variations. The scans produced by Shima are scrupulously checked by Cariaggi technical staff in order to ensure that the original colours have been reproduced as faithfully as possible. he companies have come together to present an exciting range of new technologies and ideas from Japan that hold the potential to change knitwear design and manufacturing, and make garment manufacturers more competitive. In addition, the problems created by sample development and approval, just-in-time merchandising assortments, production, and re-orders over long distances are creating major bottlenecks within the industry. The push toward ever-cheaper sourcing has forced many small and midsize suppliers and manufacturers out of business. Buyers are unable to secure assurances of production, or are forced into inventory positions which result in mark-downs. “The deep reform of the total fashion system in the apparel industry is needed,” says Mr. Umeda. While Japan’s manufacturers have been unable to compete with the current system based on cheap labour, the tide may now be turning. Shima Seiki’s knitting machines, its WHOLEGARMENT® technology, and its SDS-ONE APEX3 software offer a wide range of solutions for designers, knitters, and manufacturers; and collaborations with yarn spinners will result in new and unique products bringing many benefits to manufacturers as well as consumers. Shima’s SDS-ONE APEX3 software and design workstation is not only a system for creating knitwear patterns, but connects buyers and manufacturers to shorten sample development time through 3D simulation of colours, yarns, stitches, garment design, and line presentation. Machine programming data is prepared simultaneously with design data, which allows pro- Shima’s WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear technology also reduces textile waste and eliminates the need for costly linkage and other finishing. Just-in-time orders can be managed by knitting the one-piece garments in raw white, then garment-dyeing to order. “We not only want to sell machines, we want to stimulate and inspire the industry,” asserts Mr. Umeda. On the yarn side, Nikko Textile, originally a spinner of worsted wool yarns for men’s suiting for the domestic market, is collaborating with Shima Seiki to develop new products for knitwear, and to expand their business into Europe and the US. The company is known for its development of highly technical natural fibres, such as their “Karl-Karl” wool which is highly insulating, soft, and bulky, yet 40% lighter than conventional wool yarn. The yarn is perfect for WHOLEGARMENT® knitting. “The Innovation Network Corporation of Japan (INCJ) appreciates Nikko Textile’s ability to produce innovative, high-value-added functional fibres, such as light weight, heat-retaining, machine-washable yarns and not just normal types of natural materials”, explains Mr. Yoichi Mizuno, General Manager of Nikko Textile Corporation, and in March 2013, INCJ decided to invest a maximum of 3 billion yens (approx. US$ 30 million) in the company. >> p 3 The entire process saves time and money, reduces mistakes and material waste, and prevents bottlenecks. We not only want to sell machines, we want to stimulate and inspire the industry. 3 rd september 2013 / spinexpo TM 22 nd edition Products The wool is obtained from the neck hair of cashmere goats, which produce a double fleece of a fine, downy undercoat as well as the coarser guard hair. The wool is washed and de-haired to separate the finer underhair; the resulting fibre has an average diameter of under 19 microns. Cashmere, the Ultimate Luxury based in the Piedmont region of Italy, and now 80% owned by luxury conglomerate LVMH, is said to be the largest manufacturer of cashmere products in the West. Ningxia Zhongyin cashmere, long a supplier of raw cashmere wool, became vertically integrated in 2005. Currently, Zhongyin’s annual output reaches 1,700 tons of dehaired cashmere, 300 tons of cashmere tops, 1080 tons of woollen cashmere yarn, 250 tons of worsted cashmere yarn, and 1.5 million pieces of cashmere garment; and the company is adding facilities to increase capacity. Shanghai Jungyang Cashmere manufactures and sells yarns as well as cashmere products, while Hebei Taihe produce 300 tons of cashmere raw materials, 150 tons of cashmere yarns and 200,000 pieces of cashmere sweaters yearly. Traditionally carded or “woollen spun” to maintain the super soft and lofty handfeel, cashmere can have issues with pilling and longevity. New spinning and dyeing technologies continue to raise the level of cashmere’s performance and fashion cachet. Worsted spinner Biella Yarn by Südwolle is setting a new standard of performance with a cashmere process that results in yarns with less pilling, and the drape and lustre of silk. “We are going in the direction of more luxurious yarns,” says Mr. Andreas Diebenbusch, Director. These include Auriga, a 2/120 Nm blend of cashmere and silk, and a corespun yarn of 94 cashmere/6 nylon, made only in Italy. Cashmere yarn counts are moving ever finer. Loro Piana’s pure cashmere yarns range from 2/28 woolen spun to 110 Nm worsted, and its blends of cashmere and silk are spun as fine as Nm 200. Ningbo Consinee uses compact and worsted spinning for its fine count cashmere, improving pilling performance, and is working to create a washable version; the company has been spinning cash- Shima Seiki’s innovative WHOLEGARMENT® machines in collaboration with the proprieties of Nikko’s technology will bring about an epoch in the knitwear sector-making an innovative succession of garment and products available to the world market. mere yarns as fine as 2/100 or 2/120 Nm for the past four seasons. A more rustic sense of luxury infuses bulkier cashmere yarns: twists, tweeds, and slubs in 100% or blends. At UPW, 100% cashmere yarns include a lightweight gossamer count alongside chunky crochet, cable and moss textures; as well as a new Cashmere Tech which can be machine washed. Todd & Duncan’s “Arran” recalls the colors of Shetland wools in a1/5.6 Nm cashmere, while “Teviot” and “Laxford” are new winter tweeds in 100% cashmere or blended with lambswool. At Cariaggi, the “Fantasia” range features bulkier cashmere blends enhanced with brushed finishes or dimensional printed effects. Cariaggi’s “Systema Naturae” cashmere (flock and tops) is dyed by an infusion of herbs, berries and roots. Using fine fibres from Alashan (Chinese Mongolia), it offers a yarn that is completely natural and hypoallergenic. The colour chart is made up of shades derived from plants, roots and shrubs: the advanced technology used to extract the colour makes it possible to obtain very high-quality results that are reliable and long lasting. Incomparable stock color ranges at spinners Ningbo Consinee and Todd & Duncan are luxuries in their own right, feeding what seems to be an insatiable demand by consumers for the luxury of cashmere. “We are in a moment when cashmere is becoming intriguing again and deserving of its luxurious position in the market place,” explains Ms. Steller. “The new cashmere yarns cannot be replicated using inferior raw material or spinning techniques, making them all the more desirable to own and wear.” SPINEXPOTM is the only yarn and knitwear exhibition offering a truly international range of first quality cashmere suppliers under one roof. n “To merge advanced technologies that Japan excels at, and produce goods that other countries are not able to copy, is an indispensable advantage in the manufacturing industry” says Mr. Umeda. “In the future, ‘Made in Japan’ with high added value can apply not only to the Japanese market, but may also dominate other countries’ markets.” Mr. Umeda and his colleagues will further elaborate on “Cool Japan Textile Technology” at a seminar to be held Tuesday, September 3 at 3 pm at SPINEXPOTM Shanghai. n Seminars at the show today 12.30 p.m. Ms Junny Zhu, Product Manager, will present the Wool Trend Lab, which offers commercially available wool yarns and fabrics from around the world organized according to the seasonal trends. This guide is created to inspire and inform fashion professionals regarding the creative potential of Merino Wool. 2.00 p.m. Helen Palmer, Head of Materials and Knits, WGSN will present The Knit Edit: Trends for AW 014-15 Based on the WGSN Macro Trends Industrial Evolution, Modern Myth and Rendering Reality, Helen Palmer will present key cultural influences, fashion looks and colour palette behind each trend; moving into men’s and womenswear knit directions including key items, details, yarns, stitches and trims, and then an early preview of Spring/Summer 2015 knitted textiles including colour, yarn and stitches. 3:00 p.m. Mr Raymond So, speaking on behalf of knitting machine manufacturer and technology supplier Shima Seiki will provide a look at Cool Japan Textile Technology, which proposes new ideas for the future of the knitting industry. Conceived by Shima Seiki CEO, Mr Ikuto Umeda, and presented by Mr Raymong So, the seminar will examine solutions to common problems encountered in the design, sample development, and production of knitwear, such as just-intime delivery, textile waste, and production bottlenecks. The seminar will also share some of the latest developments by Shima Seiki, including the APEX ONE SDS-3 design system and its WholeGarment®™ knitting machines. 4:15 p.m. Mr Yoshio Nakamura will share his view of the structural changes within the Japanese Apparel Industry and its future prospects. n TM Trends Behind the trends at SPINEXPO TM The trend area is about exploring new ideas and technologies, not about reacting to commercial trends. Sophie Steller - Sophie Steller Studio Among her favourite yarns this season, Ms. Steller cites mohair, “an underlying luxury that is of the moment,” reminiscent of the 80s which is seeing a revival in light of the recent PUNK: Chaos to Couture show at New York’s Metropolitan Museum, and the Club to Catwalk exhibition at London’s V&A. She also loves the season’s more voluminous yarns that create dimension through colour: tweedy, neppy, plied, or using new dye technologies. On the other hand, she appreciates the everfiner worsted yarns being spun in noble fibres including merino, cashmere and cashmere/silk blends, using new spinning techniques to create drape, lustre and an ultra-smooth hand feel. SPINEXPO’s trends are not conceived in a vacuum; the journey to each season is rigorous, intuitive, and collaborative. According to Ms. Steller, the process begins over six months ahead of the show with an ongoing “brainstorm” in collaboration with the show’s director, Ms. Karine Van Tassel. “We examine our instincts and feelings about the world around us, culture and lifestyles, as well as fashion, and where these influences are heading,” Ms. Steller explains. She also consults with other industry experts regarding colour and fashion direction, adding authority to the evolving ideas. Colour direction is identified early, in order to project the palettes to the spinners, many of whom work closely with Ms. Steller. For example, by the end of this September’s show, the colours will be finalized for Spring/Summer 2015, and a colour and mood book will be sent to the spinners a month later. The team then reaches out to key spinners who submit their latest yarn cards to inspire further trend development. Many of the spinners happily dye SPINEXPO’s colours into their new yarns for the upcoming season, allowing the team to order yarn to be knit into the glorious swatches, garments, and accessories displayed in the Trend Forum. “The spinners are integral partners in the development journey which results in our trend message,” insists Ms. Steller. The colour palettes are further developed into capsule trends, combining mood, colour, yarn, stitch, and pattern to create the stories which inform SPINEXPO’s knitwear partners as well as the visitors to the show. For Autumn/Winter 2014/15, the capsule trends include Elegance, inspired by an era of decorative adornment; Traditions, a deconstructed take on heritage-inspired yarns and patterns; Reality, a new tribal combination of primitive and modern; Crafting, using fun colours and whimsical patterns in winter traditions; Modernism, a more technical fusion of art and science; and Elements, a story of soft, cocooning layers and textures. Offices Europe: [email protected] USA: [email protected] China: [email protected] Japan: [email protected] We examine our instincts and feelings about the world around us, culture and lifestyles, as well as fashion, and where these influences are heading. Ms. Steller credits a team of designers, both freelance and from her own studio, who design and create the samples shown in the Trend Forum. She also explains the forum would not be possible without the enormous support of an excellent group of knitwear manufacturers who make all the garments from her design specifications. These include Brilliant Global, GTIG Hubo, PT Jaba Garmindo, Shanghai Xinnuo, and Ningzia Zhongyin, amongst others. New for this season, knitted socks have been provided by Richter Yarns in association with Pantherella in the UK. Shanghai Win Sun Industry has contributed gloves, scarves, hats and slippers, reflecting the growing market of cold weather accessories. It is no wonder that the Trend Forum is one of the most popular spots at SPINEXPOTM. n www.spinexpo.com Information: [email protected] SPINEXPOTM shanghai TM 200 High-end exhibitors from 15 countries An Extended Offer: Fibre Manufacturers, Spinners, Knitwear Manufacturers and Designers. www.spinexpo.com KEEP the dates! shanghai 23 rd ed ition 11-12-13 march 2014 The Shanghai World Expo Convention & Exhibition Centre
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