TM
International exhibition for fibres,
yarns for clothing and upholstery,
knitwear and knitted fabrics
3 rd september 2013
spinexpo TM 22 nd edition
daily journal
TM
p.2 > Happening/News
p.2 > Market information
p.3 > Products
p.4 > Trends
p.4 > Spinexpo
Cool Japan Textile Technology
Growth in Apparel Sales
Forecasted for Asia, Latin
America
Cashmere, the Ultimate Luxury
Seminars at the show
Behind the trends at
SpinexpoTM
Keep the dates!
Shanghai
edito
Sophie Steller Studio
Behind
the trends
at SPINEXPOTM
Seminars
at the show today
> see p.3
happeniNg/news
D
eveloped in collaboration with Sophie Steller
Studio, SPINEXPO’s seasonal trend book is
eagerly awaited, and the Trend Forum at each
exhibition is a festival of color, texture, and knitting
expertise. For Autumn/Winter 2014/15, the trends
are based on the theme of Interactions, drawing
from our human need to communicate, connect,
and use colour as a new language. The range
explores colour tonally, linking it to emotions and
our personal world views, in eight rich and
expressive palettes: Humanity, Spirituality, Survival,
Beauty, Rituals, Emotions, Origins, and Dreams.
>> p 4
Cool Japan Textile Technology
Bringing New Ideas
to SPINEXPO
TM
> see p.2
Cashmere, the Ultimate Luxury
The catwalks for Spring 2013 were full of eye-catching knitwear
in shimmering metallics and morphing, space-dyed tonalities.
Many cashmere
spinners have
their own knitting
and garment
manufacturing,
allowing them to
customize orders,
turn quickly,
and control prices
M
ore on-trend than ever, nothing
feels like cashmere, with its softness, fine texture and light weight
warmth. “After many years of flooding the
market with poor quality products, today
the spinners are investing time and innovative technology to refine and produce cashmere yarns that reinvent our perception of
what cashmere means,” says Ms. Sophie
Steller, Trend Director for SPINEXPOTM.
China, Mongolia, Afghanistan, Iran, and
Turkey are the major suppliers of raw cashmere wool. The wool is obtained from the
neck hair of cashmere goats, which produce a double fleece of a fine, downy undercoat as well as the coarser guard hair. The
wool is washed and de-haired to separate
the finer underhair; the resulting fibre has an
average diameter of under 19 microns.
Spinners and garment producers in Scotland,
Italy, and Japan have long been recognized
as market leaders for pure cashmere products, including renowned brands such as
Todd & Duncan, Loro Piana, Biella by
Südwolle, and Cariaggi. Recently Chinese
spinners including Ningbo Consinee, Hongye
Cashmere, Ningxia Zhongyin Cashmere,
Hebei Taihe, Shanghai Junyang Cashmere,
and UPW (Guangdong United Progress
Wooltex) have joined the ranks of these highvalue producers. Many of these spinners
control their own supply of raw cashmere
wool, a major advantage during times of fluctuating supplies and prices.
Mr. Kevin Feng of Hongye Cashmere
explains, “Cashmere is not as standardized
as wool; you must understand the raw
material. Our specialty is that we understand the fibre, and can control the quality.”
The purchase of Todd & Duncan by its major
supplier, Ningxia Zhongyin Cashmere, in
2009 guaranteed the venerable Scottish
company a consistent supply of the best
cashmere, all from one place, and all traceable, according to Todd & Duncan’s Sales
Director, Mr. Bruce Cameron.
Many cashmere spinners have their own
knitting and garment manufacturing,
allowing them to customize orders, turn
quickly, and control prices. Loro Piana,
>> p 3
TM
Happening/News
Market
information
Growth in
Apparel Sales
Forecasted
“Cool Japan Textile Technology”
Bringing New Ideas to SPINEXPO
TM
SPINEXPO is delighted to welcome knitting machine
and technology supplier Shima Seiki, along with Japanese yarn
spinner Nikko Textile, to its September 2013 edition in Shanghai.
for Asia,
Latin
America
Mr. Yoichi Mizuno,
General Manager
of Nikko Textile
Corporation
While European and UK economies are
experiencing record low growth, retailers and
apparel manufacturers can seek opportunity in a
number of emerging economies, according to
two new market reports.
The 2012 Global Retail Development Index
from A.T. Kearney Global Consumer Institute, a
wordwide network of professionals and
executives, concludes “Given the accelerated
growth rates of developing countries compared
to the anemic growth in European and North
American markets, global retailers must have a
strategy for expansion into developing markets.”
Retail sales growth in China and India remains
positive and is expected to be in double-digits.
While China is one of the world’s largest markets
for luxury goods, with over 100 brands,
inflationary pressures drove up rents by 30% in
2012, and labour costs are growing by 15% per
year.
Organized retail penetration of global brands
remains low in India, indicating room for growth.
The Kearney report calls out the expanding retail
sector and strong economic growth of Latin
American economies such as Brazil, Chile and
Uruguay. Retail sales in Brazil have expanded by
12% per year for each of the past four years,
and imports grew at a rate of 52.5% in 2011.
From 2012 to 2017, retail demand for clothing is
expected to grow by double digits in Chile,
China, India, Indonesia, Peru, Russia, Saudi
Arabia, and South Aftrica, according to Textile
Intelligence’ most recent analysis. Brazil,
Columbia, Poland, Thailand, and Turkey are
forecasted to see a high single digit increase in
demand for apparel.
The Textile Intelligence report noted that the
number of Chinese households with annual
earnings over an equivalent of $50,000 USD is
expected to increase five-fold from 2010 to
2015. The country’s rapid urbanisation is driving
an increased retail demand for clothing.
In India, a growing middle class of 300 million is
adopting international trends at a rapid rate,
seeking access to world class products.
As the leading exposition for yarn spinners,
knitters, and knitwear brands on an international
level, Spinexpo’s exhibitors and visitors have the
opportunity to learn and participate in these
global economic developments. n
T
duction to begin once design approval is given. The
entire process saves time and money, reduces mistakes and material waste, and prevents bottlenecks.
Mr. Ikuto Umeda, CEO of Shima Seiki (Hong Kong)
Ltd, views the current manufacturing scenario as
untenable for the future. While the garment industry in
China and other Asian countries has benefitted from
cheap labour, China’s one-child policy is resulting in a
labour shortage, and government-mandated wage
increases are driving up prices.
For example, SPINEXPOTM exhibitor Cariaggi recently
launched their Filato Digitale (Digital Yarn) project
developed in collaboration with Shima Seiki Italia,
making digital colour charts available to Cariaggi
clients who use the Shima system. An Epson scanner
scans the yarn – using Proper Gauge, a tool developed by Shima Seiki – and the software then creates
the different colour variations. The scans produced by
Shima are scrupulously checked by Cariaggi technical
staff in order to ensure that the original colours have
been reproduced as faithfully as possible.
he companies have come together to present
an exciting range of new technologies and
ideas from Japan that hold the potential to
change knitwear design and manufacturing, and
make garment manufacturers more competitive.
In addition, the problems created by sample development and approval, just-in-time merchandising assortments, production, and re-orders over long distances
are creating major bottlenecks within the industry. The
push toward ever-cheaper sourcing has forced many
small and midsize suppliers and manufacturers out of
business. Buyers are unable to secure assurances of
production, or are forced into inventory positions
which result in mark-downs.
“The deep reform of the total fashion system in the
apparel industry is needed,” says Mr. Umeda. While
Japan’s manufacturers have been unable to compete
with the current system based on cheap labour, the
tide may now be turning. Shima Seiki’s knitting
machines, its WHOLEGARMENT® technology, and its
SDS-ONE APEX3 software offer a wide range of solutions for designers, knitters, and manufacturers; and
collaborations with yarn spinners will result in new and
unique products bringing many benefits to manufacturers as well as consumers.
Shima’s SDS-ONE APEX3 software and design workstation is not only a system for creating knitwear patterns, but connects buyers and manufacturers to
shorten sample development time through 3D simulation of colours, yarns, stitches, garment design, and
line presentation. Machine programming data is prepared simultaneously with design data, which allows pro-
Shima’s WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear technology
also reduces textile waste and eliminates the need for
costly linkage and other finishing. Just-in-time orders
can be managed by knitting the one-piece garments
in raw white, then garment-dyeing to order. “We not
only want to sell machines, we want to stimulate and
inspire the industry,” asserts Mr. Umeda.
On the yarn side, Nikko Textile, originally a spinner of
worsted wool yarns for men’s suiting for the domestic
market, is collaborating with Shima Seiki to develop new
products for knitwear, and to expand their business into
Europe and the US. The company is known for its development of highly technical natural fibres, such as their
“Karl-Karl” wool which is highly insulating, soft, and
bulky, yet 40% lighter than conventional wool yarn. The
yarn is perfect for WHOLEGARMENT® knitting.
“The Innovation Network Corporation of Japan (INCJ)
appreciates Nikko Textile’s ability to produce innovative, high-value-added functional fibres, such as light
weight, heat-retaining, machine-washable yarns and
not just normal types of natural materials”, explains
Mr. Yoichi Mizuno, General Manager of Nikko Textile
Corporation, and in March 2013, INCJ decided to
invest a maximum of 3 billion yens (approx. US$ 30
million) in the company.
>> p 3
The entire process
saves time and
money, reduces
mistakes and
material waste,
and prevents
bottlenecks.
We not only
want to sell
machines,
we want
to stimulate
and inspire
the industry.
3 rd september 2013 / spinexpo TM 22 nd edition
Products
The wool is obtained from
the neck hair of cashmere
goats, which produce
a double fleece of a fine,
downy undercoat as well
as the coarser guard hair.
The wool is washed and
de-haired to separate the finer
underhair; the resulting fibre
has an average diameter
of under 19 microns.
Cashmere,
the Ultimate Luxury
based in the Piedmont region of Italy, and now 80%
owned by luxury conglomerate LVMH, is said to be the
largest manufacturer of cashmere products in the West.
Ningxia Zhongyin cashmere, long a supplier of raw cashmere wool, became vertically integrated in 2005.
Currently, Zhongyin’s annual output reaches 1,700 tons of
dehaired cashmere, 300 tons of cashmere tops, 1080
tons of woollen cashmere yarn, 250 tons of worsted
cashmere yarn, and 1.5 million pieces of cashmere garment; and the company is adding facilities to increase
capacity.
Shanghai Jungyang Cashmere manufactures and sells
yarns as well as cashmere products, while Hebei Taihe
produce 300 tons of cashmere raw materials, 150 tons of
cashmere yarns and 200,000 pieces of cashmere sweaters yearly.
Traditionally carded or “woollen spun” to maintain the
super soft and lofty handfeel, cashmere can have issues
with pilling and longevity. New spinning and dyeing technologies continue to raise the level of cashmere’s performance and fashion cachet. Worsted spinner Biella Yarn
by Südwolle is setting a new standard of performance
with a cashmere process that results in yarns with less
pilling, and the drape and lustre of silk. “We are going in
the direction of more luxurious yarns,” says Mr. Andreas
Diebenbusch, Director. These include Auriga, a 2/120 Nm
blend of cashmere and silk, and a corespun yarn of
94 cashmere/6 nylon, made only in Italy.
Cashmere yarn counts are moving ever finer. Loro Piana’s
pure cashmere yarns range from 2/28 woolen spun to
110 Nm worsted, and its blends of cashmere and silk are
spun as fine as Nm 200. Ningbo Consinee uses compact
and worsted spinning for its fine count cashmere, improving pilling performance, and is working to create a
washable version; the company has been spinning cash-
Shima Seiki’s innovative
WHOLEGARMENT®
machines in collaboration
with the proprieties of
Nikko’s technology will bring
about an epoch in the
knitwear sector-making an
innovative succession of
garment and products available to the world market.
mere yarns as fine as 2/100 or 2/120 Nm for the past four
seasons.
A more rustic sense of luxury infuses bulkier cashmere
yarns: twists, tweeds, and slubs in 100% or blends.
At UPW, 100% cashmere yarns include a lightweight gossamer count alongside chunky crochet, cable and moss
textures; as well as a new Cashmere Tech which can be
machine washed. Todd & Duncan’s “Arran” recalls the
colors of Shetland wools in a1/5.6 Nm cashmere, while
“Teviot” and “Laxford” are new winter tweeds in 100%
cashmere or blended with lambswool.
At Cariaggi, the “Fantasia” range features bulkier cashmere blends enhanced with brushed finishes or dimensional printed effects. Cariaggi’s “Systema Naturae”
cashmere (flock and tops) is dyed by an infusion of herbs,
berries and roots. Using fine fibres from Alashan (Chinese
Mongolia), it offers a yarn that is completely natural and
hypoallergenic. The colour chart is made up of shades
derived from plants, roots and shrubs: the advanced
technology used to extract the colour makes it possible to
obtain very high-quality results that are reliable and long
lasting.
Incomparable stock color ranges at spinners Ningbo
Consinee and Todd & Duncan are luxuries in their own
right, feeding what seems to be an insatiable demand by
consumers for the luxury of cashmere. “We are in a
moment when cashmere is becoming intriguing again
and deserving of its luxurious position in the market
place,” explains Ms. Steller. “The new cashmere yarns
cannot be replicated using inferior raw material or spinning techniques, making them all the more desirable to
own and wear.”
SPINEXPOTM is the only yarn and knitwear exhibition offering a truly international range of first quality cashmere
suppliers under one roof. n
“To merge advanced technologies that Japan excels at, and produce goods that other countries are not able to copy, is an indispensable advantage in the manufacturing industry” says
Mr. Umeda. “In the future, ‘Made in Japan’ with high added value
can apply not only to the Japanese market, but may also dominate other countries’ markets.”
Mr. Umeda and his colleagues will further elaborate on “Cool
Japan Textile Technology” at a seminar to be held Tuesday,
September 3 at 3 pm at SPINEXPOTM Shanghai. n
Seminars
at the show today
12.30 p.m.
Ms Junny Zhu, Product Manager, will present the Wool
Trend Lab, which offers commercially available wool yarns
and fabrics from around the world organized according to
the seasonal trends. This guide is created to inspire and
inform fashion professionals regarding the creative potential
of Merino Wool.
2.00 p.m.
Helen Palmer, Head of Materials and Knits, WGSN will present The Knit Edit: Trends for AW 014-15
Based on the WGSN Macro Trends Industrial Evolution,
Modern Myth and Rendering Reality, Helen Palmer will present key cultural influences, fashion looks and colour palette
behind each trend; moving into men’s and womenswear knit
directions including key items, details, yarns, stitches and
trims, and then an early preview of Spring/Summer 2015
knitted textiles including colour, yarn and stitches.
3:00 p.m.
Mr Raymond So, speaking on behalf of knitting machine manufacturer and technology supplier Shima Seiki will provide
a look at Cool Japan Textile Technology, which proposes
new ideas for the future of the knitting industry.
Conceived by Shima Seiki CEO, Mr Ikuto Umeda, and presented by Mr Raymong So, the seminar will examine solutions
to common problems encountered in the design, sample
development, and production of knitwear, such as just-intime delivery, textile waste, and production bottlenecks. The
seminar will also share some of the latest developments by
Shima Seiki, including the APEX ONE SDS-3 design system
and its WholeGarment®™ knitting machines.
4:15 p.m.
Mr Yoshio Nakamura will share his view of the structural
changes within the Japanese Apparel Industry and its future
prospects. n
TM
Trends
Behind the trends at SPINEXPO
TM
The trend area is about exploring new ideas and technologies,
not about reacting to commercial trends. Sophie Steller - Sophie Steller Studio
Among her favourite yarns this season, Ms. Steller
cites mohair, “an underlying luxury that is of the
moment,” reminiscent of the 80s which is seeing a
revival in light of the recent PUNK: Chaos to
Couture show at New York’s Metropolitan Museum,
and the Club to Catwalk exhibition at London’s
V&A. She also loves the season’s more voluminous
yarns that create dimension through colour:
tweedy, neppy, plied, or using new dye technologies. On the other hand, she appreciates the everfiner worsted yarns being spun in noble fibres
including merino, cashmere and cashmere/silk
blends, using new spinning techniques to create
drape, lustre and an ultra-smooth hand feel.
SPINEXPO’s trends are not conceived in a vacuum;
the journey to each season is rigorous, intuitive,
and collaborative. According to Ms. Steller, the
process begins over six months ahead of the show
with an ongoing “brainstorm” in collaboration with
the show’s director, Ms. Karine Van Tassel.
“We examine our instincts and feelings about the
world around us, culture and lifestyles, as well as
fashion, and where these influences are heading,”
Ms. Steller explains. She also consults with other
industry experts regarding colour and fashion
direction, adding authority to the evolving ideas.
Colour direction is identified early, in order to project the palettes to the spinners, many of whom
work closely with Ms. Steller. For example, by the
end of this September’s show, the colours will be
finalized for Spring/Summer 2015, and a colour
and mood book will be sent to the spinners a
month later.
The team then reaches out to key spinners who
submit their latest yarn cards to inspire further
trend development. Many of the spinners happily
dye SPINEXPO’s colours into their new yarns for
the upcoming season, allowing the team to order
yarn to be knit into the glorious swatches, garments, and accessories displayed in the Trend
Forum. “The spinners are integral partners in the
development journey which results in our trend
message,” insists Ms. Steller.
The colour palettes are further developed into
capsule trends, combining mood, colour, yarn,
stitch, and pattern to create the stories which
inform SPINEXPO’s knitwear partners as well as
the visitors to the show. For Autumn/Winter
2014/15, the capsule trends include Elegance,
inspired by an era of decorative adornment;
Traditions, a deconstructed take on heritage-inspired yarns and patterns; Reality, a new tribal
combination of primitive and modern; Crafting,
using fun colours and whimsical patterns in winter traditions; Modernism, a more technical
fusion of art and science; and Elements, a story
of soft, cocooning layers and textures.
Offices
Europe: [email protected]
USA: [email protected]
China: [email protected]
Japan: [email protected]
We examine
our instincts
and feelings
about the world
around us, culture
and lifestyles,
as well as fashion,
and where
these influences
are heading.
Ms. Steller credits a team of designers, both freelance and from her own studio, who design and
create the samples shown in the Trend Forum. She
also explains the forum would not be possible without the enormous support of an excellent group of
knitwear manufacturers who make all the garments
from her design specifications. These include Brilliant
Global, GTIG Hubo, PT Jaba Garmindo, Shanghai
Xinnuo, and Ningzia Zhongyin, amongst others.
New for this season, knitted socks have been provided by Richter Yarns in association with Pantherella
in the UK. Shanghai Win Sun Industry has contributed gloves, scarves, hats and slippers, reflecting the
growing market of cold weather accessories.
It is no wonder that the Trend Forum is one of the
most popular spots at SPINEXPOTM. n
www.spinexpo.com
Information: [email protected]
SPINEXPOTM shanghai
TM
200 High-end exhibitors from 15 countries
An Extended
Offer:
Fibre
Manufacturers,
Spinners,
Knitwear
Manufacturers
and Designers.
www.spinexpo.com
KEEP the dates!
shanghai
23 rd ed
ition
11-12-13 march 2014
The Shanghai World Expo Convention & Exhibition Centre