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Getting Started
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Tips, Tricks, and Troubleshooting
What Is a Cast-On?
Choosing a Cast-On
Short-Tail or Long Tail?
Estimating Tail
Making a Slipknot
Slingshot Position
• Never Run Out Of Tail
• Casting On Without A
Slipknot
• Counting Stitches Fast
• If You Do Run Out Of Tail
• Fix a Dropped Cast-On
Stitch
• If Your Cast-On Is Too
Tight
Cast-Ons By Name
Alternating Long-Tail
Alternating Old Norwegian
Backwards Loop
Buttonhole
Cable
Chain
Channel Island
Crochet
Chinese Waitress
Crochet Provisional
Double-Start
Double-Twist Loop
Emily Ocker’s Circular
Estonian
Figure-8
Garter Tab
Hemmed Edge
I-Cord
Invisible Circular
Invisible Ribbed
Italian Tubular
Jeny’s Stretchy Slipknot
Judy’s Magic
Knitted
Lace
Latvian
Long-Tail
Moebius
Old Norwegian
Picot
Picot Hemmed Edge
Provisional
Slipknot
Thumb Method
Tillybuddy’s
Turkish
Twined
Twisted German
Two-at-a-Time Top-Down
Two-at-a-Time Toe-Up
Cast-Ons By Category
Basic Cast-Ons
Long-Tail Cast-Ons
• The Long-Tail Cast-On
• Long-Tail: Thumb Method
• Old Norwegian (Twisted
German)
Short-Tail Cast-Ons
• Backwards Loop
• Double-Twist Loop
• Knitted
• Purled
• Cable
• Chain (Crochet)
Stretchy/Ribbed Cast-Ons
Long-Tail Cast-Ons
• Alternating Long-Tail
• Alternating Old Norwegian
• Double-Start
• Channel Island
• Italian Tubular for 1×1 Rib
• Italian Tubular for 2×2 Rib
Short-Tail Cast-Ons
• Alternating Cable
• Slipknot
• Tillybuddy’s
• Chinese Waitress
Center-Start Cast-Ons
• Emily Ocker’s Cast-On
• Invisible Circular
• Garter Tab
Double-Sided (Toe-Up) Cast-Ons
• Judy’s Magic Cast-On
• Two-at-a-Time Toe-Up
• Turkish
• Figure-8
Provisional Cast-Ons
• Provisional
• Crochet Provisional
Decorative Cast-Ons
• Lace
• Picot
• Hemmed Edge
• Picot Hemmed Edge
• I-Cord
Multicolor Cast-Ons
• One-Color Edge
• Two-Color Edge
• Three-Color Edge
• Twined
Special Shapes
• Moebius
• 2-at-a-Time Top-Down
Introduction to This Guide
I learned so much about cast-ons while recording this video guide. I know that every
time I start a project from now on, I’m going to pick a new cast-on from among these
techniques.
I hope you are as inspired as I was by all these options. Happy knitting!
Getting Started
There are some basics in this section that you should review before you start exploring
the cast-ons in this course.
Important Concepts:
1. What is a cast-on?
2. Choosing the right cast-on
3. Understanding the difference between short- and long-tail cast-ons
Basic Techniques:
1. Estimating how much tail you’ll need
2. Making a slipknot
3. Putting your hands in the “slingshot” position
What Is a Cast-On?
Casting on is what you do when you put stitches on the needle at the beginning of your
project so that you can start to knit. Most knitters know one cast-on: the one they were
taught when they first learned how to knit.
If this is the case with you, know that there’s no reason to limit yourself to a few basic
cast-ons. Regardless of which cast-on you learned when you first started knitting, there
is probably a cast-on out there that is faster, easier, prettier or more interesting, or just
better suited to your project – and that’s where this book comes in.
So dive in and enjoy the variety of cast-ons available to you! I’ll guide you through
choosing the right cast-on below.
Choosing The Right Cast-On
The easiest way to choose a cast-on is to do whichever one your pattern calls for. You
can find it by scanning the list of cast-ons.
However, many patterns just say “Cast on xyz number of stitches” – they don’t specify
which kind of cast-on to use. If that’s the case, you have to use your best judgment and
pick one.
The most common, all-purpose cast-on for starting a project is the Long-Tail Cast-On.
It’s fast and easy and you can use it to begin any project.
Soon, however, you’ll be ready to branch out and, instead of using a basic, catch-all caston, you’ll feel like choosing one that is ideally suited to your project.
First you’ll need to decide whether you need a long-tail cast-on or a short-tail cast-on.
Once you decide on a long-tail or short-tail cast-on, read through the cast-ons in that
category and choose one that looks the way you want (there are close-up photos of each
cast-on by its entry) and has the characteristics that you need (stretchy, invisible,
reversible, fast, etc.).
There’s no “wrong” cast-on to use, so don’t be afraid to try a new one. You’ll learn as you
go which ones work well with certain types of projects and fabrics.
Short-Tail or Long-Tail?: The Fundamental Difference Between Cast-Ons
There are two types of cast-ons: short-tail cast-ons and long-tail cast-ons. In a long-tail
cast-on, two strands of yarn are used: the working yarn and a long piece of tail yarn.
You can ONLY use a long-tail cast-on to START a knitting project, because
when you’re in the middle of a project, you only have one strand of yarn available to you.
If you need to cast on in the middle of a project, you can always do a short-tail cast-on,
in other words, a cast-on that requires only one strand of yarn.
Which to choose?
Long-tail cast-ons are generally much faster to do, although until you get good at
estimating how much tail you’ll need, you might waste yarn if you estimate too much.
When you are casting on for the beginning of a project, where you will generally be
casting on a large amount of stitches, choose a long-tail cast-on unless there is a shorttail cast-on whose edge you greatly prefer.
If you are in the middle of a project and your pattern calls for you to cast on more
stitches, choose a short-tail cast-on. The cast-ons in this guide are divided into long-tail
cast-ons and short-tail cast-ons, so it will be easy for you to pick one.
Estimating How Much Tail You’ll Need
Estimating how much tail you’ll need is important when you are doing any type of longtail cast-on.
The length of the tail determines how many stitches you can cast on before you run out
of yarn. I guarantee that at some point in the future you will know, without even
thinking, how much tail to leave. But until then, you’ll have to estimate. Here are three
ways to do that:
To recap, the three techniques are:
1. Estimate 3-4 times the width of your project, or
2. Estimate 1 inch per stitch needed, or
3. Wrap the yarn around the needle 10 times to estimate how much yarn you’ll need
for 10 stitches…
…and add six inches. Why? These techniques help you estimate only the amount of
tail you’ll need to create the cast-on. You still need to leave an extra six inches so you can
weave the tail in later.
How To Make A Slipknot
Almost all cast-ons start with a slipknot, unless you learn to cast on without on, which
you might want to do once you get comfortable with casting on. To make a slipknot,
twist your yarn to create a loop, then reach inside it and pull up another loop. Pull the
tail to tighten.
Slingshot Position
Almost all the long-tail cast-ons require you to hold the yarn in the “slingshot” position
or a variation of it. It looks the like beginning of the video below.
To recap, the steps are:
1. Start with a slipknot on your right-hand needle and leave a long tail hanging
down.
2. Steady the slipknot with your right index finger.
3. Grasp the two yarn strands in the three little fingers of your left hand.
4. Insert your left thumb and forefinger between the two yarn strands.
5. Bring the right needle down between your fingers, making the yarn look like a
slingshot.
You’re ready to start casting on!
As you practice these new cast-ons, I recommend you review the tips and tricks in the
following section – they could save you a lot of grief!
Tips, Tricks, and Troubleshooting
The tips in this section will help your casting on go more smoothly and possibly get you
out of a jam or two.
Elegant Shortcuts:
1. Never Run Out Of Tail – The Infinite-Tail Method
2. Casting On Without A Slipknot: The Twist Start and Removing A Slipknot
3. Counting Stitches Fast
If You Get In Trouble:
1. Adding More Stitches If You Run Out Of Tail
2. Fixing a Dropped Long-Tail Cast-On Stitch
3. If Your Cast-On Is Too Tight or Too Loose
Never Run Out Of Tail – The Infinite-Tail Method
If you have to cast on a lot of stitches, say, for a sweater or a long circular scarf, you
might have trouble estimating the amount of tail you will need. Instead of trying to
estimate and then risking running out of tail, you can just use both ends of your ball of
yarn to do your cast-on.
Casting On Without A Slipknot – Two Methods
Many people would rather not have a slipknot in their cast-on. There’s nothing wrong
with having a slipknot in a cast-on, mind you, but if you prefer not to have one, there are
two ways to get rid of it:
1. For short-tail cast-ons, start with a slipknot and then pull it out at the end of
the first row.
2. For long-tail cast-ons, use the Twist Start method to start without a slipknot.
Both techniques are shown in the video below:
How To Count Stitches Fast
You can really speed up the cast-on process by learning how to count your stitches fast.
If you can train your eye to discern groups of five stitches at a time, counting stitches
won’t be a headache, even if you have to keep doing it as you add stitches.
Tip: If you are casting on more than a hundred stitches, place a marker on your needle
every 50 or 100 stitches, so that in case you need to count a few times as you approach
the right number, you don’t have to repeat yourself.
Adding More Stitches If You Run Out Of Tail
As you do your long-tail cast on it might happen that, a few stitches shy of your goal, you
run out of tail.
Don’t panic, and please don’t take everything out and start over. Just use any of the
short-tail cast-ons to add the stitches you need, as I show below:
Besides the very basic Backwards Loop Cast-On, if you find yourself in this situation,
you might want to experiment with using the Double-Twist Loop Cast-On, the Cable
Cast-On, or even the complex-but-worth-it Chinese Waitress Cast-On.
Fixing a Dropped Long-Tail Cast-On Stitch
If you drop a stitch out of your long-tail cast-on as you are working the first row, you
don’t have to take the cast-on out and start over. You can carefully re-work the dropped
stitch, following the technique in the video below:
If Your Cast-On Is Too Tight or Too Loose
The key to getting the right tension in your cast-on is not to pull the wrong part of
the stitch snug.
When you are doing a long-tail cast-on and you snug up the stitches as you cast on, tug
with your thumb, not your index finger – this will tighten the knot and not the
stitch itself. If you’ve casted on with good tension, you’ll be able to slide the stitches
around on the needle, but they should not be so loose that they slide by themselves.
Also, make sure that you are using the fingers of your right hand to stabilize the new
stitches as you cast them on. If you are gripping the right-hand needle below the stitches
and not touching them, your stitches will end up too tight. I show you why in the video
below:
One trick you can use if you find yourself continually casting on too tight is to cast onto
both your needles at once. When you are done casting on, remove one needle, and you
will see that your stitches are bigger but still nice and even.
You can also experiment with casting on using a needle that is a few sizes bigger than
what your pattern calls for. Conversely, if you cast on too loose all the time, try using a
needle a few sizes smaller than what your pattern calls for.
Basic Cast-Ons
The cast-ons in this section work well for stockinette-stitch and garter-stitch fabric.
Basic Long-Tail Cast-Ons
Long-Tail Cast-On
The long-tail cast-on is a beginner cast-on.
It is fast and easy to do and is moderately
stretchy and sturdy.
To do the long-tail cast-on, estimate how
much tail you’ll need and make a slipknot that
far into the working yarn.
Put the slipknot on your right-hand needle,
stabilize the slipknot with your right index
finger, and position the yarn in slingshot
position.
Tips:
1. Don’t pull your long-tail cast-on too tight. When you snug up the stitches
as you cast on, tug with your thumb more than your index finger – this will
tighten the knot and not the stitch itself. If you’ve casted on with good tension,
you’ll be able to slide the stitches around on the needle, but they should not slide
by themselves.
2. When you do any kind of long-tail cast-on, you are creating the first rightside row of knitting as you do your cast-on. This means that you need to start
your knitting by doing a wrong-side row, otherwise you’ll get purl bumps on the
front of your work.
Long-Tail Cast-On: Thumb Method
The Thumb Method is another way to create the Long-Tail Cast-On. I think it’s slower
and more difficult than the standard way, but if you prefer this method, here’s how to do
it:
Old Norwegian (Twisted German) Cast-On
The Old Norwegian cast-on is a slightly
complicated long-tail cast on that is very
sturdy and stretchy and has a pretty, doubletwisted edge.
It can be used for stockinette stitch as
well as ribbing. To use it for stockinette
stitch as shown in the picture, just do the knit
version.
To do the cast-on for ribbing, do the knit
and purl versions in whatever combination
your ribbing is in (1×1, 2×3, etc.).
Tips:
1. For the knit version, pull the thumb yarn to tighten. For the purl version, pull the
index-finger yarn to tighten.
2. Remember that you are creating the first right-side row of knitting as you do your
cast-on. This means that you need to start your knitting by doing a wrong-side
row.
Basic Short-Tail Cast-Ons
Use the cast-ons in this section to add stitches in the middle of stockinette-stitch and
garter-stitch projects.
Backwards Loop (Child’s) Cast-On
The backwards loop cast-on is the easiest
of them all. It’s great for teaching to children
and beginning knitters.
However, it’s not very sturdy or stretchy,
and it’s also difficult to knit into. The stitches
act like a Chinese finger trap and tighten as
you knit each one – not very desirable.
Learn this cast-on so you can teach it to your
kids and your beginning-knitter friends, then
learn a better short-tail cast-on as soon as
possible.
Double-Twist Loop Cast-On
The double-twist loop cast-on is an
attractive short-tail cast-on that is relatively
fast to do.
It has a sturdy double-twisted edge and, like
all short-tail cast-ons, it can be used to add
stitches in the middle of any project.
Knitted Cast-On
The knitted cast-on is a very easy short-tail
cast-on based on the knit stitch.
It is moderately stretchy and only semidurable- it tends to get stretched-out with use.
Avoid using this cast-on on high-wear items
like kids’ hat brims or mitten cuffs.
To do the knitted cast-on, knit into stitch on
the left-hand needle and then place the new
stitch knit-wise onto the left-hand needle.
Tips:
1. If you are using the knitted cast-on to add stitches in the middle of a project, you
won’t need to turn your work after you’ve casted on- just start knitting the caston stitches.
2. Knit the cast-on stitches through the back loops to ensure a nice solid
edge.
Purled Cast-On
The purled cast-on is the exact opposite of the knitted cast-on and is used to add stitches
when you’re on the purl side of your work.
It looks exactly the same as the knitted cast-on, only viewed from the back.
To do it, purl into stitch on the left-hand needle and then place the new stitch purlwise
on the left-hand needle.
The nice thing about the purled cast-on is that when you place the new stitch on the lefthand needle, your needles are already in position to purl again, so you don’t have to
reinsert your needle.
Tips:
1. If you are using the purled cast-on to add stitches in the middle of a project, you
won’t need to turn your work after you’ve casted on- just start purling the cast-on
stitches.
2. Purl the cast-on stitches through the back loops to ensure a nice solid
edge.
Cable Cast-On
The cable cast-on is just as easy as the
knitted cast-on but has a beautiful and firm
twisted edge.
The edge is not very elastic but it is quite
sturdy, so you can use it for projects where the
edge needs to be decorative but not highly
stretchy.
To do the cable cast-on, insert the right-hand
needle between the first two stitches on
the left-hand needle and wrap your yarn as if
to knit. Pull a loop through and place the new
stitch knitwise on the left-hand needle.
Tips:
1. To make the last cast-on stitch look just as good as the rest of them, bring your
yarn between your needle tips to the front of your work after creating
the last stitch but before placing it on the left-hand needle. Then bring your yarn
to the back, under the right-hand needle, and you’ll see how it neatens up the last
stitch.
2. If you are using the cable cast-on to add stitches in the middle of a project, you
won’t need to turn your work after you’ve casted on- just start knitting into the
cast-on stitches.
Chain (Crochet) Cast-On
The chain cast-on uses a crochet hook to
place stitches on the needle.
The special thing about the chain cast-on is
that it’s the only cast-on that exactly
matches the traditional bind-off, so you
can use it to create perfectly matching cast-on
and bind-off edges.
However, because it creates a rather obvious
edge, this wouldn’t be a great choice for
adding stitches in the middle of a project.
Tips:
1. To make cast-on edge perfectly match your bind-off edge, use a smaller-thannormal crochet hook to cast on and a bigger-than-normal right-hand needle
when you bind off.
2. This cast-on is the same as the crochet provisional cast-on, only the
provisional cast-on uses waste yarn. See? You just learned two cast-ons at once!
Stretchy/Ribbed Cast-Ons
The cast-ons in this section work well for fabric that needs to stretch. They all look great
with ribbing and many of them have an almost invisible edge that blends perfectly with
the stitches.
Stretchy/Ribbed Long-Tail Cast-Ons
Alternating Long-Tail Cast-On
The alternating long-tail cast-on is an
easy cast-on for any combination of knit and
purl stitches.
The “knit version” is the regular long-tail caston you’ve already learned. The “purl version”
is the opposite movement, and creates a purl
cast-on stitch.
You can alternate 1 knit and 1 purl to prepare
for 1×1 rib, or you can alternate 2 knits and 3
purls to prepare for 2×3 rib, etc.
Tips:
1. Remember that the slipknot counts as your first stitch, so if you’re setting
up for 1×1 rib, your first cast-on stitch should be a purl stitch
2. Cast on an even number of stitches and end with a purl cast-on stitch. That
way, your first stitch when you go to work the first row will be a knit stitch, and
you’ll start the row off in the expected way of “knit 1, purl 1…”
Alternating Old Norwegian (Twisted German) Cast-On
The Old Norwegian cast-on is a slightly
complicated long-tail cast on that is very
sturdy and stretchy and has a pretty, doubletwisted edge.
It can be used for stockinette stitch as
well as ribbing. To use it for stockinette
stitch, just do the knit version.
To do the cast-on for ribbing as shown in the
picture, do the knit and purl versions in
whatever combination your ribbing is in (1×1,
2×3, etc.).
Tips:
1. For the knit version, pull the thumb yarn to tighten. For the purl version, pull the
index-finger yarn to tighten.
2. For ribbing, cast on an even number of stitches and end with a purl cast-on
stitch. That way, your first stitch when you go to work the first row will be a knit
stitch, and you’ll start the row off in the expected way of “knit 1, purl 1…”
Double-Start (Estonian/Latvian) Cast-On
The double-start cast-on is a relatively fast
and easy way to cast on for 1×1 rib.
It is based on the long-tail cast-on and creates
pairs of stitches as you cast on.
This cast-on works best for 1×1 rib only, not
for other combinations of ribbing.
Tip:
1. Because this technique creates pairs of cast-on stitches plus the slipknot at the
beginning, it will result in an odd number of stitches if you repeat the
technique for the whole cast-on. If you need an even number of stitches, add one
more long-tail cast-on stitch at the end.
Channel Island Cast-On
The Channel Island cast-on is decorative
cast-on for stockinette or ribbing.
It creates a small knot every other stitch and,
because it is created with a double strand of
yarn, the edge is very sturdy and won’t get
stretched-out.
It is traditionally used to cast on for gansey
sweaters.
Italian Tubular (Invisible Ribbed) Cast-On for 1×1 Rib
The Italian tubular cast-on creates a true
invisible ribbed cast-on edge for 1×1 rib. The
stitches seem to flow from the front to the
back with no discernible edge.
There are two steps to this cast-on: the
Italian cast-on and 2 or 4 tubular set-up
rows. Doing 4 set-up rows makes the cast-on
edge a little more rounded.
This cast-on is also special in that it has a
matching bind-off: the invisible ribbed
bind-off.
Tips:
1. End the cast-on with a long-tail cast-on stitch, an Old Norwegian cast-on stitch,
or a half-hitch, so that the last stitch doesn’t fall off the needle.
2. For the two tubular set-up rows, work the first and last stitches, and slip the purl
stitches with the yarn in front and knit the yarn overs.
3. At the end of the first tubular set-up row, work the double-loop that is the first
cast-on stitch together to make it one stitch.
4. If you want to use this cast-on in the round, I recommend that you work the caston and tubular set-up flat like I show in the video, then divide your stitches and
join for working in the round. Use your tail yarn to sew up the little gap created
by working the first rows flat.
5. This cast-on can also be used for 2×2 rib – just follow the directions here
and then adjust the stitches according to the instructions for the Italian Tubular
Cast-On for 2×2 Rib.
Italian Tubular Cast-On for 2×2 Rib
To do the Italian tubular cast-on for
2×2 rib, use the Italian cast-on for 1×1 rib to
cast on the number of stitches your pattern
calls for and then complete the two tubular
set-up rows.
Once you have done the cast-on and tubular
set-up rows, you will rearrange the knit
and purl stitches as you work your first row
to create the k2, p2 pattern.
This cast-on is special in that it has a
matching bind-off: the invisible ribbed bindoff for 2×2 rib.
Tips:
1. To work the first row after the tubular set-up: k1, *insert left-hand needle into
front of the next knit stitch. Remove next 2 sts from left-hand needle, replace the
purl stitch onto the left-hand needle, then place the knit stitch on the left-hand
needle. K1, p2, k1, rep from * to end.
2. If you learn how to do this, you’ll also basically know how to do cables without a
cable needle. Bonus!
3. If you want to use this cast-on in the round, I recommend that you work the caston and tubular set-up flat like I show in the video, then divide your stitches and
join for working in the round. Use your tail yarn to sew up the little gap created
by working the first rows flat.
Stretchy/Ribbed Short-Tail Cast-Ons
Use the cast-ons in this section to add stitches in the middle of ribbed projects or any
project where you need a very elastic edge.
Alternating Cable Cast-On
The alternating cable cast-on is a very
stretchy and almost invisible cast-on for any
combination of knit and purl stitches.
As with the alternating long-tail cast-on, the
“knit version” of the alternating cable cast-on
is the regular cable cast-on you’ve learned,
and the “purl version” is the opposite
movement.
You can alternate 1 knit and 1 purl to prepare
for 1×1 rib, or you can alternate 2 knits and 3
purls to prepare for 2×3 rib, etc.
Tips:
1. To make the last cast-on stitch look just as good as the rest of them, bring your
yarn between your needle tips to the other side of your work after
creating the last stitch but before placing it on the left-hand needle.
2. Because you don’t have to turn your work after doing this cast-on, take care to
start with a purl stitch and end with a knit stitch so that when you start working
into the cast-on, your first stitch will be a knit stitch, and you’ll start the row off in
the expected way of “knit 1, purl 1…”
Slipknot (Buttonhole/Jeny’s Stretchy Slipknot) Cast-On
The slipknot cast-on is a reversible and
very elastic short-tail cast-on that can be
used to add stitches to stockinette or ribbing.
This cast-on is simply a series of slipknots
done with the working yarn.
Tip:
The key to success for this cast-on is to keep all the slipknot stitches very close
together, and pull each stitch tightly to secure it. The cast-on is so elastic that you can’t
afford to leave any slack in the yarn.
Tillybuddy’s Cast-On
Tillybuddy’s cast-on (invented by
Tillybuddy on Ravelry) is a very sturdy and
stretchy short-tail cast-on that can be used for
1×1 or 2×2 rib.
The cast-on uses loops and twists to create
pairs of stitches on the needle.
Tips:
1. Work the first row close to the needle-tips so the cast-on doesn’t get
stretched-out.
2. The cast-on creates pairs of stitches so, combined with the initial slipknot, it
results in an odd number of stitches. If you need an even number of stitches,
remove the slipknot once you get to it at the end of the first row.
Chinese Waitress Cast-On
The Chinese Waitress cast-on is a
beautiful, reversible, and stretchy short-tail
cast-on.
It was taught to knitting author Cap Sease’s
friend by a waitress in a Beijing restaurant,
hence the great name.
Not only is this cast-on very stretchy, it also
doesn’t curl on stockinette, and it creates
a reversible double-chain effect along the
bottom edge that is very pretty.
For a matching bind-off, try Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off (video coming in a
future e-book).
For those of you who are just bored by other cast-ons, this one is for you. It’s different
and interesting, but not hard!
Tips:
1. Try using a crochet hook instead of your right needle as an alternate way to do
this cast-on.
2. When you go to bind off the stitch, hold the working yarn tight in order to
tighten the last stitch on the needle. This makes it easier to bring the other
stitch over it and off the needle.
3. Don’t forget to bring the yarn over the front of the left-hand needle
before you wrap it around the right-hand needle.
4. Remember to remove the right-hand needle and replace it in the stitch
facing the other direction before you start each new stitch.
5. To make the last cast-on stitch look just as good as the rest of them, bring your
yarn between your needle tips to the front of your work after creating
the last stitch but before placing it on the left-hand needle.
Center-Start Cast-Ons
The cast-ons in this section all help you start from the center of a project, whether it be
circular or triangular. Circular cast-ons are for starting in the center of a project that
is knit in the round. Of the two circular cast-ons, Emily Ocker’s is easier whereas the
invisible circular’s hole disappears more completely.
The garter tab cast-on is for starting triangular shawls.
Emily Ocker’s Circular Cast-On
Emily Ocker’s circular cast-on, made
popular by Elizabeth Zimmerman, is the
easiest circular center-start cast on.
It uses a crochet hook to create the
number of cast-on stitches needed, and
the stitches are then slipped onto a long
circular needle or double-points.
When you pull the tail tight, the cast-on zips
up into a circle. A little hole is still visible – if
you don’t like the hole, try the invisible
circular cast-on below.
Invisible Circular Cast-On
The Invisible Circular cast-on is used to
start in the center of a project that is knit in
the round.
Casting on into a ring of yarn, places the
stitches on your long circular needle.
When you arrange your needle for knitting in
the round, you pull the tail tight and the
circle zips up and closes completely.
Tips:
1. Be sure to end the cast-on with a stitch from under the yarn, not a yarnover. That way the last stitch will not fall off the needle. This results in an odd
number of stitches.
2. If you need an even number of stitches, start the first working round with a
yarn over.
Garter Tab Cast-On for Triangular Shawls
The Garter Tab cast-on is an ingenious
way to invisibly start a triangular shawl.
A Provisional cast-on is used to cast on two or
three stitches, then the working yarn is used
to knit in garter stitch until you have a little
strip of fabric – the “garter tab.”
Picking up stitches along the edge of the tab
and in the provisional cast-on places the
stitches in such a way that you are ready to
start the triangular shawl and it is
impossible to tell where you started.
Decorative Cast-Ons
The four cast-ons in this section can be used to start any kind of project and add a pretty
or interesting edge. All but the hemmed edge cast-ons are short-tail cast-ons, so they
can be done at any point in your knitting.
Lace Cast-On
The Lace cast-on is a decorative short-tail
cast-on that looks good with garter stitch, seed
stitch, and ribbing.
Wrapping the yarn around your lefthand needle before doing a knitted cast-on
stitch creates an extra loop of yarn on the edge
of your project.
Be warned that if you use this edge on
stockinette stitch, it will tend to curl – that’s
why I’ve shown it to you here in seed stitch.
You could also use ribbing or garter stitch.
Picot Cast-On
The Picot cast-on uses a combination
of the knitted cast-on and binding off to
create a picot edge.
You can use this cast-on to start topdown socks or any project where you’d
like a scalloped edge.
This cast-on is special in that it has a
matching bind-off: the picot bindoff (coming in a future e-book).
Tips:
1. Use a smaller needle than what the pattern calls for. This will prevent the
picot edge from being too big and fluffy.
2. You can add distance between the picots by casting on and then binding off
more stitches after you create each picot.
Hemmed Edge, Purl-Ridge, and Picot Hemmed Edge Cast-Ons
The Hemmed Edge cast-on creates a
smooth, folded edge. The purl-ridge variation
adds a row of purl bumps at the fold, and the
picot hemmed edge has tiny picot bumps at
the fold.
All three hemmed edge cast-ons are created by
folding a length of stockinette-stitch
fabric in half and tacking the cast-on edge
down on the wrong side of the work.
This cast-on is best used on projects knit
in the round so that the wrong side doesn’t
show. It works well on top-down socks if you
don’t pull the tack-down row too tight.
For a regular hemmed edge, knit 11 rows of stockinette stitch and then fold.
For a purl-ridge edge, knit 5 rows of stockinette, then 1 purl row, and then 5 more
rows of stockinette before folding.
For the picot hemmed edge, knit 5 rows of stockinette, then a row of (yo, k2tog)
lace, and then 5 more rows of stockinette before folding. This is the technique shown in
the video below.
The hemmed-edge cast-ons also have matching bind-offs: the hemmed-edge bindoffs.
Tips:
1. The key to a straight, even hemmed edge is finding the right purl pump on
the inside of your work to pick up into. Once you’ve identified the row the
purl bump is in, move horizontally, picking up bumps in the same row.
2. Make sure you do at least 5 rows of stockinette stitch before and after the
lace/purl round. If you cut corners and don’t do enough rows, your hemmed edge
will flare out and look funny.
I-Cord Cast-On
The I-cord cast-on creates an I-cord
along the edge of your knitting.
Passing stitches back and forth between
the needle-tips as you work a knitted
cast-on causes the edge to form an Icord.
Use sharp lace needles for this caston to make manipulating the stitches
easier.
This cast-on also has a matching bindoff: the I-cord bind-off (coming in a
future e-book).
Double-Sided Cast-Ons
The three cast-ons in this section are for casting on in the round while making a sealed,
seamless edge at the bottom of your work. They are most often used for toe-up socks as
well as felted bags, hot water bottle covers, and the like. You can also use any of these
cast-ons to knit two-at-a-time toe-up socks using Magic Loop – I show you here with
Judy’s Magic Cast-On.
All three cast-ons can be used interchangeably. I’ve listed them in descending order
from my most to least favorite.
Judy’s Magic Cast-On (JMCO)
Judy’s Magic cast-on is a fantastic
double-sided cast-on.
Not only is it the sturdiest of the
double-sided cast-ons, in my opinion
it is also the easiest to knit into,
which is when it really counts.
Invented by Judy Becker, this cast-on
creates a row of knitting in between
the two rows of live stitches on your
needles.
I recommend using a long circular
needle instead of double-points to do
this cast-on.
Tips:
1. Twist your working yarn and tail yarn around each other once when
you finish the cast-on. This will hold the stitches in place.
2. Make sure to place a marker at the beginning of the round, since your tail will be
on the inside of your work and, after a while, you won’t be able to see it.
3. To knit the first round, start with the knit side facing towards you and the needle
tips pointing to the right. Pull the bottom needle out to start knitting in
the round using Magic Loop.
Two-at-a-Time Knitting with Judy’s Magic Cast-On
Two-at-a-Time Toe-Up Socks are one of my favorite uses of Judy’s Magic Cast-On.
If you are comfortable with Magic Loop knitting and Judy’s Magic Cast-On, combine the
two skills to start a pair of toe-up socks. Not only are toe-up socks fast to knit, there’s no
heel flap or picking up stitches.
In the video below, I walk you through casting on for a two-at-a-time toe-up project. For
a full tutorial, plus patterns and formulas, check out my Two-at-a-Time Toe-Up Socks
video knitting course.
Tips:
1. Use a long circular needle to do this cast-on. I recommend 47 inches (120
cm).
2. Make sure to place a marker at the beginning of the round, since your tail will be
on the inside of your work and, after a while, you won’t be able to see it.
3. To knit the first round, start with the knit side facing towards you and the needle
tips pointing to the right. Pull the bottom needle out to start knitting in
the round on Magic Loop.
Turkish Cast-On
The Turkish cast-on is a double-sided caston that is even and sturdy.
It’s easy because all it entails is just
wrapping the yarn around both of your
needle tips held together.
However, what it gains in easiness at the caston stage causes more difficulty when it’s time
to knit into the cast-on.
You’ll need to be proficient in Magic Loop in
order to make this cast-on work without
dropping stitches.
Tips:
1. Hold your working and tail yarns carefully so that no stitches disappear
off the needles.
2. To knit into the cast-on, pull the bottom needle out to start knitting in the
round using Magic Loop.
3. After you’ve knit the first round, place a marker at the beginning of the round.
Figure-8 Cast-On
The Figure-8 cast-on is my least-favorite
double-sided cast-on.
The cast-on row of stitches can be loose and
have a noticeable kink, instead of curving
smoothly.
Like the Turkish cast-on, the Figure-8 cast-on
is easy to do but hard to knit into.
You’ll need to be proficient in Magic Loop in
order to make this cast-on work without
dropping stitches.
Tips:
1. Hold your working and tail yarns carefully so that no stitches disappear
off the needles.
2. To knit into the cast-on, pull the bottom needle out to start knitting in the
round on Magic Loop.
3. After you’ve knit the first round, place a marker at the beginning of the round.
Multicolor Cast-Ons
There are seven multicolor cast-ons to choose from in this section, and most of them are
dead easy. I encourage you to try these because they are way easier than they look
– there’s absolutely no reason not to start your next two-color project with a multicolor
cast-on.
The Twined cast-on is the toughest, but that’s only because it’s designed for two-color
ribbing, so knitting the first row gets complex and requires familiarity with Fair-Isle
techniques.
One Contrasting-Color Edge – Two Ways
The easiest way to create a contrastingcolor edge is to tie two colors of yarn
together in a slipknot and use them to do
any kind of long-tail cast-on.
•
•
The yarn that goes over your
thumb will be the color that creates the
contrasting edge.
•
In the example on the left, the long-tail
cast-on was used. This creates a simple
stripe.
In the example on the right, the Old
Norwegian cast-on was used. This creates
a thicker stripe.
Two-Color Cast-On with Corded or Braided Edge
To make a two-color edge, two colors of yarn
are used together in a long-tail cast-on and
the strands are rotated between each
cast-on stitch.
• To create the two-color corded cast-on
(left), rotate the yarns
counterclockwise.
• To create the two-color braided caston (right), rotate the yarns
clockwise.
Three-Color Cast-On with Corded or Braided Edge
To make a three-color edge, three colors of
yarn are used together in a long-tail cast-on
and all three strands are rotated
between each cast-on stitch.
•
•
To create the three-color braided cast-on
(right), rotate the yarns clockwise.
To create the three-color corded cast-on
(left), rotate the yarns
counterclockwise.
Twined Cast-On for Two-Color Ribbing with Contrasting Edge
The Twined cast-on sets you up for twocolor ribbing and creates a contrasting edge in
a third color.
To do it, tie three colors of yarn together
in a slipknot and use the Old Norwegian caston to rotate between the two colors you will
use for your ribbing.
•
•
The yarn that goes over your thumb will be
the color that creates the contrasting edge.
Place your hands in the slingshot position
with the third yarn hanging down.
As you cast on each stitch with the Old Norwegian cast-on, drop the yarn from your
index finger and replace it with the yarn that was hanging down.
Provisional Cast-Ons
Provisional cast-ons hold live stitches for you to knit into later. Doing a provisional caston is a great way to knit a scarf from the center-out: you first knit one half of the scarf
and bind off, then insert your needle into the stitches that were “on hold” and knit the
other half of the scarf. There will be no seam or visible indication of what you’ve done.
Provisional cast-ons are also used in many other kinds of projects. You may think the
idea seems scary or complicated, but I encourage you to try learning the two cast-ons
below – you’ll see they aren’t as scary as you thought. The two provisional cast-ons
in this section are interchangeable.
Provisional Cast-On
The Standard Provisional cast-on uses
a circular needle or a piece of waste yarn to
hold the stitches until you are ready to work
them.
I love the idea of using a circular needle
to hold the stitches (shown at left),
because when you are ready to knit them
they are already on the needle and ready to
go.
However, if you’re going to be turning your
work a lot and don’t want a circular needle
hanging down and banging around, you
can use a piece of waste yarn.
Tips:
1. To cast on an even number of stitches, start with a yarn-over.
2. To cast on an odd number of stitches, start by bringing your needle under the
waste yarn or circular needle.
3. Make sure that your last stitch is not a yarn-over – if it is, it will fall off the
needle.
4. When you remove the waste yarn and put the stitches on your left-hand needle,
insert the needle from front to back to make sure the stitches are facing the
right way. If you have used a circular needle, this won’t be an issue.
Crochet Provisional Cast-On
The crochet provisional cast-on is very
convenient because it’s so easy to
remove.
It works the same way as the Chain
Cast-On, only you’ll be using a piece
of waste yarn to cast on the first
row.
After you cast on, work the stitches in
your working yarn according to your
pattern.
When it’s time to remove the cast-on,
simply pull the tail – the chain will
unravel easily.
Tips:
1. After you have cast on the stitches you need, create one last loop but don’t
place it on your needle. Just remove the crochet hook and put in a stitch
marker. This is the key to making the cast-on easy to remove later on.
2. When you remove the waste yarn and put the stitches on your left-hand needle,
insert the needle from front to back to make sure the stitches are facing the
right way.
Special Shapes
Each cast-on in this section is specifically designed for a certain type of project. The
Moebius cast-on is the only way to start a moebius scarf or bag, and the two-at-a-time
cast-on is the easiest way to start knitting two round tubes at once.
Moebius Cast-On
The Moebius cast-on was invented by
Cat Bordi as a way to start a loop with one
twist in it.
The cast-on itself is similar to a Provisional
cast-on, but then setting up the Moebius
and checking it to find the twist make the
endeavor more complicated.
Working the first round can be a little slow
and confusing – I’ve demonstrated the caston all the way through knitting the first
round so that you won’t get stuck.
Tips:
1. Looking for the twist in your Moebius is probably the hardest part of the
cast-on. Just follow the cable of your circular needles with your eyes and fingers,
gently moving the stitches if needed, until you see the spot where the cables cross
each other.
2. Be aware: the crossing may be at or near your needle tips, where you
might not be expecting it. This is perfectly fine.
3. As you knit into the cast-on, insert your needle tip from front to back into
each “triangle” as it presents itself.
4. You will need to use your fingers to massage the stitches and push them around
the Moebius and up onto your left-hand needle. Don’t worry, it’s only like this at
the beginning.
5. Wondering how I made such a tiny Moebius for the photo? Thought it was
impossible to make a tiny Moebius without felting? Wrong! Magic Loop to the
rescue again. That’s right – with Magic Loop you can knit anything in the
round, of any diameter – even a Moebius. I won’t pretend it wasn’t a pain
in the butt, but it can be done. I’ll show you how in a future knitting video course
on Moebius knitting.
Liat’s Limitless Cast-On for Two-at-a-Time Anything
Liat’s Limitless Cast-On for Two-at-aTime Anything is a top-down cast-on I
invented for two-at-a-time knitting in the
round on Magic Loop.
It’s the easiest way to get started knitting two
tubes that are open on the end, like Top-Down
Socks.
For Two-At-A-Time Toe-Up Socks, try Judy’s
Magic Cast-On for two-at-a-time.
You’ll need a long circular needle (47 inches
[120 cm]) and two balls of yarn.
Tip:
Knitting into this cast-on will be much easier if you are proficient in Magic Loop
knitting.
Tips:
1. You can use any type of long-tail cast-on with this technique, and I
encourage you to experiment!
2. Don’t tighten the first stitch of each tube too tight – you’ll regret it when it comes
time to put the stitches back on your needle tips.
3. You can learn more about two-at-a-time knitting in my course on Two-At-A-Time
Top-Down Socks.
Congratulations!
I’m so proud of you for making it all the way through this course. Your knitting is going
to improve so much as you experiment with using these cast-ons in your projects. You’ll
improve doubly if you show a friend how to do them, too!
Thank you for being my student and for being willing to try and mess up, and being
gentle with yourself when you do. Your curiosity about knitting and your demand for
good knitting videos lets me fulfill my purpose in life: teaching you to become a
Knitting Superstar.
Where To Get Help
If you have questions on these cast-ons or need any help doing them, please start a new
thread in the KNITFreedom forum on Ravelry. We’re scanning the boards all the time to
make sure your questions get answered.
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