TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK SUPPLEMENT TO MR MAGAZINE JOSEPHABBOUD.COM TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK “Like every good man, I strive for perfection, and like every ordinary man, Iʼve found that perfection is out of reach̶but not the perfect suit.” ̶Edward Tivnan A MODERN GUIDE TO MENʼS SUITS WHO COULD HAVE PREDICTED THE COMEBACK IN MENʼS SUITS? As evidenced by the growing number of fashion bloggers out there, young (and not so young) guys are increasingly interested in quality clothing, craving information about fabrics, construction, and clothing care. And as greatly improved sales figures prove, men are once again buying and wearing tailored clothing, especially slimmer suits styled in a modern way by a whole new generation. Just in time to cash in on this new attitude, MRʼs Tailored Clothing Handbook is designed to provide information and insight to buyers, sellers and wearers of menʼs suits. In an industry of continuous change, of ever-evolving technology, fabric, fit and design, even the experts are constant students of the business. That said, we thank the many menʼs clothing professionals who generously shared their knowledge with our editors in order to compile this handbook. And of course we thank the wonderful tailored clothing vendors who came through to support this project. Additional copies of this handbook are available to retailers; contact [email protected]. As always, I look forward to hearing from you. “Our clothes are too much a part of us for most of us ever to be entirely indifferent to their condition: It is as though the fabric were indeed a natural extension of the body, or even of the soul.” ̶Quentin Bell This page: Zanetti Elements suit, Tallia Orange shirt, Via Spiga belt, Original Penguin tie, Charriol watch. Photographed by Stephen Ciuccoli. Styling by John Jones and Cynthia Lucero. Model: Adam Von Rothfelder, Q Model Management. Grooming: Adriana DeSilva. Photo assistant: Angelo DiVincenzo. Styling assistant: Shaun Levine. Written and produced by MR Magazine ©June 2012 SELLING TIPS Selling suits is not rocket science, but product knowledge, patience and personality make a big difference in closing the sale. Here, we talk to a few professionals from stores around the country. ANDY MALLOR Andrew Davis Menswear: Bloomington, Indiana WITH NEW CUSTOMERS, THE MOST IMPORTANT TIP IS TO NOT MOVE TOO FAST TO THE SUIT RACKS. We strive to make the client comfortable by offering soda, water, etc. and by starting a dialogue to find out more about him: where heʼs shopped before, the reason heʼs looking for a suit and what he currently has in his closet (that isnʼt from the ʼ60s...). Let the sale develop from this conversation. You may find his needs are much different from what he first says. Size up the client properly from the beginning and make certain the suits he tries on are appropriate for his body type. If we canʼt eyeball the clientʼs size, we take four quick measurements: chest, over arm, waist and seat. If these arenʼt in proportion to our rack suits, we either move to separates or start talking about custom. Itʼs important that we guide him and not vice 0HOTOGRAPHYBY!3EBASTIAN4AHERIsSPACELIGHTDIGITALCOMs TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK baroniprive.com DONʼT MOVE TOO FAST IRA ROTHSTEIN H. Herzfeld: New York, NY versa. Ask open-ended questions, as knowledge of a clientʼs preferences, style and clothing use is a powerful tool in maximizing the positive experience for both parties. Dress the part and romance the process. We like for a client to say, “I want a suit that fits like your suit,” or when we ask why he shops at Andrew Davis, he says, “Because I want to look like your managers, Macey and Kaleb.” We also discuss different ways to wear the suit, and follow up with a handwritten thank you note or call to make sure heʼs satisfied. We want him to experience great quality and fit, and know why that differs from the “buy-one-get-four-free...” We like when he tells us he was complimented while wearing clothing from Andrew Davis. NEVER JUDGE THE CUSTOMER BY HOW HEʼS DRESSED. At some stores, if the guy isnʼt wearing Brioni or Kiton when he walks through the door, or if heʼs a challenging fit, the sales associates donʼt bother with him. I say, always take the challenge. Even if heʼs not wearing great clothes at the moment, he might have enough money to buy the store. You just donʼt know. Be perceptive: if the guy seems to have a flair for fashion, if heʼs wearing a cutaway collar or a DB coat, try to focus your presentation accordingly. Always push the envelope: show several options and present a complete story. Show the most expensive option first. Once they try it on and see how great it looks, it doesnʼt seem so expensive. Often, even if you end up bringing out less expensive choices, theyʼll go for the more expensive ones. www.MRketplace.com 877.922.7664 TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK SELLING TIPS KEITH KINKADE Kinkadeʼs Fine Clothing: Ridgeland, Mississippi JOHN MALOUF Maloufʼs: Lubbock, Texas IF THE CLIENT IS NOT ACCUSTOMED TO BUYING A BETTER SUIT, I ENCOURAGE HIM TO TRY ON BOTH QUALITIES AND SHOW HIM THE DIFFERENCE IN THE DETAILS. The higher fabric quality and inner construction. How much more is incorporated into the foundation of the garment. How the better garment rests properly on the shoulders and enhances the customerʼs physical appearance. How the better suit, after much wearing and cleaning, retains the original tailoring and integrity. INVEST IN THE BEST A suit with less tailoring can look good in the beginning, but without the handwork and extra details in the tailoring of the inner construction, it lacks the permanence and integrity of the original design and structure. It also loses some of its integrity with repeated cleaning and wear. The quality of a better suit remains intact as long as the customer wishes to keep it. The proper roll of the lapel, the permanence of the shoulder structure and the original body shape all enhance the customerʼs physical characteristics. This tailoring ensures retention of the original design. A better tailored suit offers much greater value. Itʼs an investment, not an expense. CARRY ONLY QUALITY BRANDS. Itʼs always easier to sell a quality product. We feel the utmost comfort presenting the brands we carry to our customers. The quality is apparent on the body and in the mirror. ALWAYS GREET YOUR CUSTOMERS, EVEN IF YOUʼRE BUSY. When customers come into our store, we always greet them with a smile as if they were stepping into our own home. We use their name if weʼve met them before, and if their name slips my mind, we use whatever else we can remember about them in conversation to establish familiarity. Always be eager to help each customer, even if you think there may be no immediate profit in it. It will always pay off in the long run. BUILD A RELATIONSHIP WITH EVERY CUSTOMER. This can be accomplished through simple conversation. Ask them about their likes and dislikes with regard to clothing. Where will they be wearing this suit? What kind of impression do they want to make? You can learn an awful lot about a customer by asking such questions and making a true effort to listen to their answers. The goal is to make them feel important, appreciated and well taken care of. LEARN TO “SIZE” PEOPLE AT A GLANCE. Good guesses always impress and help build credibility. However, itʼs often best to guess “conservatively.” This makes gentlemen feel better about the way they look, and more comfortable. Sometimes it comes naturally with time, but sometimes it takes practice! NEVER FORCE. ALWAYS FIT. Never force a rack suit on a customer when a custom option will better serve them. Taking detailed measurements is a great way to avoid this and also engage customers in conversation (see above). Armed with measurements, one can make more knowledgeable recommendations with regard to selling off the rack or presenting a custom option. At Kinkadeʼs, we sell upwards of hundreds of units of custom suits every year because weʼve learned to illustrate clearly when itʼs a better option̶especially when it comes to odd sizes or customers with disproportionate builds. EXPRESS GRATITUDE. ̶Keith Kinkade Include a thank you note in every suit or jacket pocket that goes out the door. Reference the reason the customer made the purchase and thank him sincerely for it. He may not find the note until heʼs at work, church or an event, but when he does, heʼll remember the thoughtful care you took to help him look his best. After all, thatʼs what weʼre all in this business to do. “Sometimes it comes naturally with time, but sometimes it takes practice!” “Show the most expensive option first. Once they try it on and see how great it looks, it doesnʼt seem so expensive.” ̶Ira Rothstein, H. Herzfeld www.MRketplace.com 725 FIFTH AVENUE N E W Y OR K , N Y 212.245.0770 Ta i l o r e d C l o t h i n g Jones New York, Tommy Hilfiger, Marc Ecko and Willis & Walker And announcing MC Coa t - New tailored outerwear and rainwear group TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK SELLING TIPS BRAD SHERMAN Hubert White: Minneapolis, Minn. GREG EVELOFF The Clotherie: Phoenix, Arizona IF A CUSTOMER COMES IN LOOKING FOR A SUIT, FIND OUT WHAT HE NEEDS IT FOR. Is it for business, evening or casual? If it is for business, find out what kind of business heʼs in so you can find him the appropriate suit. If itʼs for evening, whatʼs the occasion? Once heʼs trying on some suits and heʼs finding a few that he likes, try and find him a suit that is totally different than his norm, one that you think would look good on him. That way if he likes it and it does look good in him, it gives him a reason to buy another suit: the one he came in for and one that makes him feel special. GAIN YOUR CLIENTʼS CONFIDENCE by letting him know when something heʼs considering really doesnʼt look good on him (because of color, fit or some other reason). STAY AWAY FROM THE REGISTER! Focus on making a complete presentation and let him indicate when heʼs finished shopping. (Often, weʼre so eager to ring the register that we end the sale just when the customerʼs getting into a buying mode.) AVOID ALL QUESTIONS WHERE THE ANSWER MIGHT BE A NO (such as ʻMay I help you?ʼ or ʻDo you want to see some shirts to go with that sportcoat?ʼ). Instead, show product that complements his primary purchase with genuine enthusiasm. As an introduction, a simple compliment will generally bear much more fruit than ʻMay I help you?ʼ KNOW YOUR CUSTOMERʼS LIFESTYLE: where he works, his family, friends and interests. Thatʼs how casual customers evolve into lifelong clients. GAIN THEIR CONFIDENCE JASON GREEN “...show him how great a suit looks with a cool open collar shirt and a colorful pocket square.” ̶Greg Eveloff Take the time to explain all the nuances of the silhouettes: slimmer, narrower shoulders, higher armholes, shape of the pant, etc. A lot of customers come in and say, “I couldnʼt tell you the last time I wore a suit and tie.” Thatʼs the perfect opportunity to show him how great a suit looks with a cool open collar shirt and a colorful pocket square. And how can he leave the store without picking up at least one new tie to go with the new suit? We also say, “Think about the last time you were in a restaurant. Who got the better service and attention̶the guy in khakis and a polo shirt or the guy in the suit?” Harry Rosen: Toronto, Canada MINDSET: Approach the sale with the idea of selling a complete wardrobe. Start with solid worsted suits in navy and in gray. The client will appreciate the ease with which furnishings cross function between these two basic color palettes. Transition next to a birdseye or sharkskin, then to a micro pinstripe. INFORMATION COLLECTION: Seek to clearly understand the specific lifestyle of your client. Knowing his profession, whether he travels regularly, and whether he facilitates presentations, etc. will assist you in making sensible suit and jacket recommendations. SUBJECT MATTER EXPERTISE: Product knowledge is crucial to multi-garment selling. Developing the skills to articulate and relate the selling propositions (i.e. fit, fabric and function) directly to your client's specific needs is a powerful vehicle to achieving volume clothing sales and developing repeat clothing clients. FITTING EXPERTISE: Developing the skill to ascertain the correct and complementary fit for the client the first time you place a garment on his back provides you with credibility. Making the client feel good and look good with your first clothing recommendation opens the door to making additional ̶Jason Green clothing recommendations. Demonstrating the ability to balance and mark each clothing item (independent of a fitter/tailor) further strengthens your credibility and ensures fluidity to your sale. SELL WITH A POINT OF VIEW: Communicating value to a client means creating a desire for sartorial clothing as well as fashion clothing. Your client will appreciate your efforts in opening up new options for him. Several of our key clients enjoy sartorial clothing by day and fashion clothing by night. Never pigeonhole your client or he will lose interest in dealing with you over the long term. “Sell with a point of view.” www.MRketplace.com TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK TERMINOLOGY Besom or welt pocket: A slot pocket with a bound horizontal seam. It gives a jacket clean, elongated lines and a modern look because the pocket itself is hidden. Break: Refers to the slight crease formed at the bottom of trouser legs when worn. Traditional wisdom says the pant hem should stop at the top of the shoe in front and just above the shoe sole in back. More modern, slimmer-cut trousers should have little or no break, with a straight hem grazing the top of the shoe. Button stance: The position of the top button; determines the roll of the lapel. Canvas chest piece: The interlining used to create structure and shape; can be a distinguishing characteristic of a better made suit. Chest: Made with floating canvas interlining or more modern fusing methods (some modern styles use lighter-weight fabrics or do not have chest pieces at all). Learn the Lingo Cuffs: The fold at the bottom of the pant. Most common with pleated pants, but since the trend is toward flatfront, cuffs arenʼt seen as often anymore. Dart: The narrow seam detail that helps fit the suit to the body. It should be flat, neat and straight. Drop: The difference between coat size and waist size. Average drop is 6 inches; trimmer-fit drop is 7 inches; trimmest fit drop is 8 inches. For example, a 40 regular coat with a 6-inch drop will have pants with a waist size of 34 inches. Flap pocket: Found on most classically tailored, constructed sportcoats and suit jackets; a separate piece of material covers the opening. Floating canvas: A piece of canvas interlining sewn into the lining of a coat in a way that allows it to ʻfloatʼand adapt to its wearerʼs physique over time. French facing: Exposed seams are bound in fabric to protect from wear; especially important for unlined or partially lined jackets. Fusing: Combining synthetics and heat in order to join the interlining to the top layer fabric, or join two middle layers together. Gorge: The seam where the collar meets the lapel. The seam should be straight and smooth. The felt undercollar should be neatly felled, but not so tight that it puckers. It should also be hidden from the side and back of the collar. Photo courtesy of The Woolmark Company Lapel: An extension of the collar, folded back to rest against the front of the coat. The modern lapel is anywhere from 2 to 3 inches wide. www.MRketplace.com ZANETTI www.zanetti.com TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK TERMINOLOGY Lining: Should be tacked securely to the coat so it wonʼt hang below the coat after dry cleaning. Sweatshields at inside armholes allow for better breathability and protection, and striped sleeve linings give a more sartorial look. Pant lining should extend below the knee. Bemberg (or cuprammonium) lining is commonly used for lining suits due to its superior flexibility and ability to take color and printing. no visible stitching. Pick stitching on the interior of a jacket is called Columbia stitching. Point-to-point: The measure in inches from shoulder to shoulder (currently averages around 18.75 to 19.25 for a 40 regular). Measurements decrease for slimmer styles (fashion suits around 17.5 to 18.25). Photo courtesy of The Woolmark Company Notch lapel: Features a triangular cutout where the lapel is attached to the collar. (A high notch on the lapel, an English look, enhances the impression of length in the jacket. Italian designers generally prefer a lower notch). Rise: The measurement between the waistline and the crotch. It’s no accident that the FINEST MENSWEAR SUITS in the world are made of MERINO WOOL In addition to all the many natural properties and inherent benefits of wool, there are other reasons why Merino wool is the best fiber for making men’s suits. MERINO is the finest and softest wool in the world. The Australian Merino wool industry has a heritage stretching back more than 200 years. Merino wool is easy to tailor, has great ability to absorb dyes, and is wrinkle resistant. The most versatile of all fibers. It has a long history and heritage. It has many natural inherent properties and benefits. It is natural, renewable and biodegradable. It has great drape and style. It retains its shape with natural wrinkle recovery and stretch properties. It offers great value with its longevity. Nothing looks, feels, tailors and wears better than a suit made from Australian Merino Wool. Suits made from Merino wool are a great investment. They will last for years and years. Shawl collar: A smooth, rounded lapel, usually seen on tuxedos. Slant pocket: A besom or a flap positioned on a slant. Open bottom: An unfinished pant bottom intentionally left that way for tailoring. Patch pocket: The pocket is sewn onto the exterior of the garment. Usually seen on a relaxed fit or unconstructed sportcoat. Peak lapel: Designed in an upward and outward V-shape point. Pick stitching: The stitching at the edge of the lapel creates a hand-tailored look; also known as AMF (named after the original machine that simulated hand stitching). The opposite is a bluffed edge, which has Ticket pocket: A sartorial detail, this half-size third (functional) pocket is located on the right side of the jacket above the flap pocket. It is found on both dress and sportcoats, lending a distinctly British custom-made look. Vents: The flaps of cloth below the waist, at the back of the jacket (originally for soldiers who rode horseback; the side vents would lie flat on the soldierʼs legs, protecting the gun powder in their pockets, without disturbing the line of the jacket). Options include center, side or nonvent; the most popular at present are side or center-vented jackets. www.MRketplace.com AUSTRALIAN MERINO WOOL The world’s first choice for men’s suits. The Woolmark Company — The Americas 210 11th Avenue. Suite 1103 New York City, NY 10001 (347) 767 3160 TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK FABRICS & FIBERS Photo courtesy of HMS International, cloth by Gladson or lamb), scours it (cleans it) and cards it (a process in which metal rods explode the fibers out of clumps of wool). The fibers are then spun into strands or staples no longer than 2.5 inches. While the yarns spun from these staples yield a characteristic fuzziness, they are fairly weak because the fibers donʼt all lay in the same direction. Worsteds: Worsted yarns are smooth and durable, spun from long, higher-twist yarns. Worsted cloth is usually yarn dyed rather than piece dyed. Itʼs a clear-surface material that usually requires little or no finishing. Worsteds are used for year-round clothing including suits, sportcoats and trousers. The worsted system has more steps than the woolen system. Worsteds are combed (to remove short fibers and align long fibers) and drafted (to stretch fibers). The process produces staples longer than 3 inches, which are spun into very fine yarns, making them smooth, well twisted and uniform. WEIGHT-Y ISSUES Although the majority of suit sales come from year-round weights, seasonal fabrics are becoming more relevant in todayʼs business: heavier wools and tweeds in the winter and lightweight cottons, linens and silk blends in the summer. Fabric weight is determined in ounces per linear yard. Tropicals (6.5 to 7.5 ounces/yard) are used for spring/summer suits. Year-round weights (8 to 10 ounces/yard) include twill weaves and clear finishes. Fall weights (over 10 ounces/yard) are used for fall/winter suits because of the dense hand. Super 100s is a term that measures a wool fiberʼs diameter in microns. The higher the super number, the higher the grade of fabric (the lighter and more flexible the fabric), making it softer and more resilient, but harder to tailor. Woolʼs micron count must be the same in warp and weft yarns to earn the certification of super 100s to 160s. TYPES OF WOOL Woolens: Woolen cloth has a fuzzy surface; it can be bulky and doesnʼt develop a shine with wear. (Tweeds are made from woolen spun yarns.) Woolen cloth is made from woolen yarn but doesnʼt need to be 100 percent wool. Itʼs usually dyed and holds a crease well. Woolens can provide tremendous warmth due to their density and ability to trap air. These fabrics are mostly used for seasonal sportcoats and topcoats. The woolen system takes grease wool (straight from the sheep SUPER 100S 18.5 micron = super 100s 18.0 micron = super 110s 17.5 micron = super 120s 15.5 micron = super 160s www.MRketplace.com Paul Betenly TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK FABRICS & FIBERS COMING TO TERMS... Continuous filaments are long, continuous strands of fiber, extruded from a spinneret. They are usually man-made fibers such as rayon, nylon, polyester or acetate because natural fibers (wool, cotton) have shorter lengths or staples. (Except for raw silk which is spun by silk worms as a continuous filament in lengths of 300 to 1,600 yards.) TWIST Twist is a term thatʼs applied to spun yarns. High-twist yarns are crisper, stronger, less likely to wrinkle and more resilient than straight yarns. Super high twisting creates crepe yarns. Ply is when two yarns are twisted together before weaving. Single ply (known as singles) is the weave of two yarns only. NATURAL (FROM ANIMALS) CAMELHAIR Source: camel Pros: excellent warmth for weight Cons: less durable Notes: mostly used for sportcoats and topcoats CASHMERE Source: goat Pros: soft, luxurious hand, excellent drape Cons: delicate, very expensive Notes: commonly used for sportcoats, topcoats or blended with another fiber (e.g. silk) MERINO WOOL Source: pure-bred merino sheep Pros: finest and softest wool Cons: expensive Notes: often used for higherend suits and sportcoats SILK Source: silkworm Pros: finest and strongest natural fiber Cons: poor elasticity, loses shape Notes: most often used for suits, sportcoats and blended with other fibers (e.g. cashmere) WOOL Source: sheep (lamb) Pros: versatile hand (fine or coarse), resilient, porous Cons: poor abrasion resistance, can pill Notes: the most widely used fiber in tailored clothing WHY WOOL? Wool has many natural properties that synthetic materials (like poly/viscose) try to emulate. High-grade wool fibers have a natural elasticity that helps resist wrinkling, especially those of heavier weights. A natural ability to resist some surface stains. Wool fibers absorb water, then the fibers swell and stains can be easily removed. Natural stretch and recovery, which helps retain the shape Absorbs over 30 percent of dry weight in moisture vapor without feeling wet, minimizing static cling A natural insulator that locks in air between fibers Flame retardant Breathable Anti-odor capabilities NATURAL (FROM PLANTS) MAN MADE (CELLULOSIC) MAN MADE (NON-CELLULOSIC) COTTON Source: cotton plant Pros: cool, absorbent, durable through many washes Cons: poor elasticity, wrinkles easily Notes: used for summer suits, sportcoats and pants LINEN Source: flax plant Pros: stronger and more lustrous than cotton Cons: wrinkles very easily Notes: used for summer suits, sportcoats and pants ACETATE Source: wood pulp and cotton linters Pros: lustrous, fast drying, wrinkle and shrink resistant Cons: non-absorbent, poor elasticity Notes: mostly used for linings RAYON (VISCOSE) Source: wood pulp Pros: excellent drape, absorbs moisture but dries slowly Cons: poor elasticity, wrinkles easily Notes: suits, sportcoats, pants, linings; most often mixed with polyester NYLON Source: synthetic Pros: strong, elastic and resistant to abrasion Cons: non-absorbent, doesnʼt breathe Notes: blended in suits, coats, pants for strength and stretch POLYESTER Source: synthetic Pros: strong, resists stretching and wrinkles, holds a crease Cons: non-absorbent, doesnʼt breathe Notes: blended in suits, coats, pants, raincoats and threads www.MRketplace.com THE SURPRISING INS AND OUTS OF INTERLININGS THE HIDDEN HEART OF A GREAT GARMENT The interlining is the invisible essential in most clothing that makes it move, feel and perform as it should. Think of it as the delicious hidden center of a Tootsie Roll Pop® that changes and improves the entire product, or the unseen computer chip without which your smartphone would not perform properly. At its best, the interlining does its job flawlessly without the consumer ever knowing it is there. But, for many apparel items like tailored clothing, collared shirts or dresses, and even for everyday necessities like auto upholstery, the interlining is fundamental to the performance we have come to expect. As technology continues to envelop our everyday lives, the interlining may also function as your invisible protection from harmful radiation emitted by a variety of devices. So, what exactly is an interlining? For apparel it’s a knit or woven fabric that lines the inside of clothing and accessories. It’s the canvas or fusible lining of a suit that helps it conform to your movements, or the lining of a shirt collar that makes it look right and perform properly after many washings. Interlinings help your tie make the perfect knot or protect the cards in your wallet from radiation or intrusion from RFID devices. Today’s lighter fashions sometimes feature visible interlinings to create apparel that maintains its shape and integrity while adding style and sizzle. No matter what the function or product it’s applied to, the interlining has just one job… to improve performance without the consumer ever having to be aware of it. That’s why it’s so important that your interlining supplier understands your business, and has the depth of knowledge and product selection to help increase your sales while satisfying your customers’ expectations. There is only one company with the worldwide supply chain, the up-to-theminute technology, and 150 years of experience in the apparel business. Kufner is the global leader in interlinings, and the one company that is certain to deliver the quality and performance you need and your customers expect. INNOVATION Since the founding of the company 150 years ago, and the invention of the first horsehair canvas interlining in 1903, Kufner has pursued a culture of constant innovation, pioneering almost every new application or advance in the market. Some of the latest include: X-Shield – a single-layer interlining that reduces radiation by 99.9999% but feels great and drapes beautifully. Ultra light Haute Couture – the lightest interlinings in the world, made especially for delicate or transparent women’s wear. Easy Leather – a new collection that maintains the natural softness, optical appearance and elasticity of even the lightest weight leather garments. Light and Shape – a new kind of canvas interlining that is lightweight and comfortable, with the resilience of heavier conventional linings. It helps keep you cool and is perfect for travel. Heated Textiles – The same technology used to heat auto seats has been refined and adapted for apparel. This creates a range of interesting opportunities for creative manufacturers. Printed Fusibles – Like the examples on the opposite page, we can create high-visibility fusibles that can replace the traditional linings of jackets and other garments. Let your imagination run wild and reap the benefits that a fusible fabric can bring to enhance the value of your products. KUFNER MAKES IT LOOK EASY With worldwide sourcing a reality and delivery windows tighter than ever, the importance of having a major partner looking out for the integrity of your products cannot be overstated. Kufner is represented in more than 100 countries around the world, and has 4 production facilities on two continents. Wherever you manufacture, we can deliver, collaborate and perform to the standards you would expect from a leader. If you make any kind of apparel or accessories worldwide, Kufner has what it takes to make it better. FABRICS & FIBERS WEAVES CELEBRATING 150 YEARS OF INNOVATION To our friends in the apparel business, We hope you have enjoyed this introduction to interlinings. They play an essential role in today’s apparel business, especially for many of the newer designs and innovations currently entering the market. The only limit is your creativity, or ours, in helping you to realize your concepts. After years of being a hidden ingredient, interlinings are becoming increasingly important as a visible feature that creates personality and integrity in otherwise ordinary products. New lighter construction and innovative printing techniques have changed our way of thinking and can be the single feature that helps differentiate your designs from the mainstream. In addition, we have pioneered new ideas like textile heating systems for seasonal apparel and RFID and radiation protection for wallets and other items. ULRICH SOGL Chief Executive Officer (C.E.O.) Kufner International FINISHING Kufner knows interlinings better than anyone in the world and, in fact, we are located all over the globe with facilities and agents in more than 100 countries. 2012 is our 150th anniversary and marks the next phase of our growth. We are on the leading edge of apparel technology with the expertise to help you achieve your goals and get the job done right. Please call us today. We promise to bring new ideas for merchandising, operations and garment construction to the table. Join the many companies who rely on Kufner as their global solutions provider. We look forward to hearing from you. WEAVING IS THE INTERLACING OF YARNS ON A LOOM. The warp yarn runs vertically on the loom. A single warp yarn is called an end. The weft runs horizontally. A single weft, or filling yarn, is called a pic. Pics are inserted by a shuttle as the harness manipulates ends up or down to achieve the weave. There are two basic weaves: plain and twill. PLAINWEAVE IS THE SIMPLEST FORM OF INTERLACING YARN. Each end goes under and over each interlacing pic. This weave comprises nearly 80 percent of all woven fabrics. Basketweave is a more decorative version of a plainweave, with multiple ends interlacing multiple pics, but itʼs also more delicate. Split basketweave is a variation in which multiple yarn colors are used within the grouping of ends or pics. TWILL WEAVE IS CHARACTERIZED BY DIAGONAL RIDGES THAT ARE FORMED AS EACH PIC INTERLACES OVER EVERY THIRD END. The most basic twill weave is called 3-harness, due to the three harnesses needed on the loom to control the three consecutive ends. The face, or front of the fabric, will not match the back because it shows more warp than weft. 4-harness construction, in its most common 2x2 form (two ends up, two ends down) also has a twill line running upwards from left to right. Harness construction allows advanced pattern detailing, textural variety and increases weight. 5-harness construction can yield smooth, lustrous fabrics like venetians, whose face consists almost entirely of warp yarns. SUKESH KUMAR Sr. Vice President - Americas Global Director - Business Development Cell:+1 917 833 0340 Skype: sukesh.official Email: [email protected] Internet: http://www.kufner-textil.com The hand of the fabric tells how it will feel when itʼs finished. Fulling uses heat friction, moisture, chemicals and pressure to shrink and mat a fabric, giving it a dense, felt-like hand. Napping uses metal rollers to raise the surface of fibers, giving the fabric a soft, lofty cover (such as flannels). Mill finish or semimill finish are used to describe the soft, downy effects of fulling and/or napping. Decatizing removes wrinkles from a fabric as it is wound tightly on perforated rollers, with either hot water (wet) or steam (dry) running through it. All fabrics are decatized, but fabrics with a hard finish are decatized more than others. Sponging removes excess movement in fabric, ensuring that a suit retains its size after pressing and steaming. Shearing of yarns cuts all surface fibers to a common length, improving consistency of texture. TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK SUIT PROPORTIONS THE “BEFORE” AND “AFTER” SHOTS OF GUYS IN MAGAZINES LIKE GQ AND ESQUIRE HAVE BECOME UBIQUITOUS: MEN ARE TRADING THEIR FULL, BOXY SUITS AND DRESS SHIRTS FOR A TRIMMER, MORE MODERN LOOK. While every tailor may not agree on exact numbers, there is broad consensus about a few key things: trousers and sleeves̶and even the body of the suit jacket̶are all shorter. The fit is closer to the body, for a more flattering appearance whether the wearer is in great shape or not. The modern suit isnʼt skin-tight; itʼs just not baggy anymore. From the top, the lapel notch is higher and the lapels are a little narrower. The shoulders of the jacket shouldnʼt extend much beyond the wearerʼs own and shouldnʼt be as padded as they once were. Armholes are higher, giving more freedom of movement without the jacket riding up when arms are raised. Sleeves also have less material for arms to slosh around in. The body of the suit will be more form-fitting, pinching in above the waist in a flattering V-shape that makes shoulders look broader, and waists more narrow. From the waist down, notice a shorter rise (the length from the top of the waist to where the legs meet). Most trousers are now flatfront. Trouser legs are trimmer and the hem will generally allow for a slight break or none at all. No cuffs. All of this is true (in varying degrees) of all modern suits, not just the ones for skinny or athletically built men. Even big & tall manufacturers are adjusting their specs to provide a more streamlined appearance. In the example at right, we get more specific. Measurements are based on a 40 regular with a 6-inch drop (34 waist). Point-to-Point The average distance between the shoulders is shorter by about an inch, down to 18.5 inches. Lapel Width Jacket lapels have narrowed to between two and three inches wide. Button Stance The button stance is lower than it used to be, and two buttons are more common now than three. Waist Suppression In certain models, this is a factor. (If not actual waist suppression, at least an illusion.) Sleeve Length The jacket sleeve should hit at or slightly above the wrist. This should reveal between a quarter inch to a half inch of the shirt cuff. Jacket Length Running anywhere from 29.5 to 30 inches. Drop The difference between jacket size and waist size. Modern drop runs anywhere from 6 inches for a regular fit, 7 for slim and 8 for fashion cuts. Trouser Width The trouser legs will be trimmer through the thighs by about an inch to 27 inches, around and through the knees by half an inch to about 20 inches around. Hem/Break Trousers should have either no break or a oneinch break, with the hem just covering the top of the shoelaces. The break should hit mid-shin. PROPORTIONS DKNY www.MRketplace.com TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK QUALITY CONTROL How can some retailers give three suits away for the price of one while others sell one suit for $5,000? What goes into a suit to make it worth the money? Here, we investigate quality tailoring. RUMOR HAS IT: DEBUNKING COMMON TAILORED CLOTHING MYTHS MYTH: Thereʼs no good alternative to a full-canvas suit. Arguably, the best and most luxurious suits are full canvas. Full-canvas chest pieces are made of high-quality materials (horsehair and camelhair), are hydrophilic (it absorbs and evaporates moisture) and are resilient (it takes the shape of a manʼs body creating a perfect fit over time). However, full-canvas suits are much more expensive (about 20 percent higher than half canvas). Half-canvas suits can be a great option because while they still hold shape in the chest, theyʼre less expensive and production is much faster. MYTH: Handmade is superior to machine made. While more time and effort goes into a handmade suit, it doesnʼt always mean better quality. Only some aspects of that handwork provide benefits related to comfort, shape retention and appearance. Not only can machines make more suits in less time, but theyʼll be less expensive, more consistent with less room for error. There are techniques that can be done on a machine to create a handmade look (i.e. AMF stitching). Handwork is best on areas of stress, like the collar and the armhole, to allow for more ease of movement and comfort. If price is no issue, however, handmade is just fine! MYTH: A one-piece collar is superior to a two-piece collar. One-piece collars are a technique of traditional tailors. Theyʼre more difficult to make, but that doesnʼt always mean theyʼre better. Collars should hug the neck and drape over the neck and shoulders. A two-piece collar does the job just as well (some argue better) with much less effort. MYTH: Fully fused suits are inferior quality. Fusing techniques have gotten remarkably better over the years. In the past, fused suits tended to bubble after a few rounds of dry cleaning, but the technologies have since improved and that doesnʼt happen as often anymore. Fused suits were also known to lack shape and drape, but that has improved, too. Of course, thereʼs still a range from bad quality fusing to very good quality̶all fused suits are not created equal. Canali MYTH: A fully lined jacket takes more work than a half-lined or unlined jacket. This is a common misconception made by the average consumer. An unlined jacket actually requires the most skill, followed by a half-lined jacket. With an unlined or half-lined jacket, the inner workings of the jacket are exposed, therefore all of the inner seams need to be finished, which takes more time. Half-lined and unlined jackets are lighter in weight and much more comfortable in warmer climates. However, lined jackets do give better shape and structure to the garment. Sleeves should be lined, otherwise itʼs harder to get the jacket on and off with ease, especially fall jackets worn with knits; the fibers can lock together and make it feel like itʼs stuck. www.MRketplace.com Fabian Couture Group International For more information please call 1.800.367.6251 Black by Vera Wang TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK QUALITY CONTROL CHECKLIST ELEMENTS OF A HIGH-QUALITY SUIT Fabrics with a fine yarn count (look for super 100s and higher) Bemberg lining: hydrophilic (absorbs and evaporates moisture); fine filaments make it soft̶the thicker the fiber the less flexible, the thinner the fiber the more flexible Reinforced collar stitching Pick or AMF stitching on the outside, Columbia stitching on the inside of the garment. Pick stitching is at the edge of the lapel, creating a hand-tailored look; also referred to as AMF stitching after the first machine (AMF Reece machines) that emulated this handmade look. Pick stitching (called Columbia stitching when itʼs on the interior of the garment) creates a crisp look by keeping the edges flat and prevents them from rolling to the wrong side. Working buttonholes on the sleeves are generally considered a sign of quality since itʼs harder to tailor the cuff to the proper sleeve length. These days, however, some less expensive suits have machine made working buttonholes. Caveat emptor. Curved welt pocket: more difficult to make and looks better on the body. The body is round and the curved pocket makes it appear straight when itʼs up against the chest. Follows the curves of a manʼs body. Hand-stitched sleeve cuffs Real horn buttons Cross-stitched buttons: stronger stitch, less chance of falling off Pant lining matches sleeve lining Pleated curtain on the pantʼs waistband̶makes the waistband more comfortable and creates more freedom of movement. Regardless, if the pants are flatfront, single or double pleat, customers love this detail, especially because it helps keep the shirt tucked in and in place. Pleated curtains cost more in time and fabric. Button tab on waistband (instead of a metal clip) Pick stitching on the fly Bar tack on pants: prevents fly from opening V-Notch on the back of the waistband: aids in overall waistband comfort Belt loops sewn into the back of the waistband instead of stopping at the top Specific shoulder constructions (Neapolitan, rolled, natural) are usually indicative of a well-made suit. If a company has a signature shoulder it most likely has a specific look and customer, not capable of high production levels, and thus, is a trait of a more expensive, high-quality suit. 9OURGARMENTDESERVESTHE"EST "EST MEANS "EVERLY "EVERLYHASBEENPROVIDINGTHEHIGHESTQUALITY WOODENGARMENTHANGERSTOTHEBESTINTHEINDUSTRYSINCE /URLEADERSHIPPOSITIONHASBEENACHIEVEDBYPROVIDINGOUR CUSTOMERSWITHINNOVATIVEDESIGNOUTSTANDINGCUSTOMER SERVICEANDPUNCTUALDELIVERY )FYOUSELLAQUALITYGARMENTYOULL WANTTODISPLAYITONTHE"ESTA"EVERLY ->ÊÀ>VÃV\ÊnääqÓÓq{£x£ÊÊ}Ê}\ÊnxÓqÓx£äqää£äÊÊÜÜÜ°LiÛiÀÞ >}iÀðV UÊÊ >ÊvÀÊ>ÊvÀiiÊV>Ì>}ÕiÊÊU TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK FAQ Frequently Asked Consumer Questions (And how to answer them...) ARENʼT SOLID DARK SUITS TOO BORING? Not if theyʼre well cut and made of beautiful fabrics. Think about it: youʼre spending a lot of money on the suit, so you donʼt want to buy anything too trendy. Nothing is more elegant on a man than a perfectly fitting, well-cut, classic suit. To express your personality, feel free to step out of the box with more adventuresome shirts and ties, shoes and socks, belts and pocket squares̶a more pragmatic way to make a style statement. Or choose a made-to-measure suit option, in order to personalize details like fabric, linings, buttons, pocket type, etc. IF YOU BUY A NEW SUIT OR TWO TIP ANNUALLY, YOUʼLL NEVER HAVE TO REPLACE AN ENTIRE WARDROBE. 0HOTOGRAPHYBY!3EBASTIAN4AHERIsSPACELIGHTDIGITALCOMs HOW MANY SUITS SHOULD I OWN? If you wear suits to work every day, we recommend at least six: solid black, navy, a medium shade of gray, gray or navy pinstripes and two subtle patterns (e.g. herringbone, glen plaid, birdseye). Add a sportcoat or two (one classic navy blazer, at least one unconstructed, updated style) and youʼre in business! WHAT ARE MY OPTIONS IN TERMS OF SUIT MODELS THESE DAYS? Much depends upon your body type, but if youʼre easy to fit, your best bet is a two button single-breasted style with narrow to medium lapels, side or center vents, the jacket and trousers somewhat slimmer and shorter than whatʼs in your closet. That said, DBs and peak lapels are staging comebacks, and vests are becoming increasingly important. Check with your sales associate for what looks best on you. HOW OFTEN SHOULD I REPLACE MY SUITS? If you buy good quality, suits can last for many years, for unlike womenʼs fashion, styling in menʼs clothing evolves gradually: something you bought last year will virtually always be appropriate this year. That said, every five years or so tiny style changes will add up to noticeable obsolescence. So if you study your closet today, you may find your suits a bit too baggy, with pants too long, shoulders too broad and lapels too wide. HOW WIDE SHOULD LAPELS BE THESE DAYS? Itʼs all about proportion. The lapel width should relate to the shirt collar and width of the tie and lately, everything has narrowed a bit. That said, always make sure your suit lapels meet the tips of your shirt collar; if not, see your tailor. WHAT ABOUT WARM WEATHER SUIT OPTIONS? ITʼS HOT OUTSIDE We love linen (wrinkles are okay!) and lightweight wool in paler shades of gray. We also love seersucker, a popular option among southern gentlemen. Cotton canvas and silk blends in medium neutral shades are also good choices; synthetics are not. NYf\]jZadlLjY\af_;g& *-@YddKlj]]l:jggcdqf$FQ))*(-L]d2 /)0!N9F<=J:ADL% /)0!/1/% ,1((>Yp2 /)0!0-- %)./) =eYad2kYd]k8kghjYfg%[gdd][lagf&[geooo&]b%kYem]d&[ge www.MRketplace.com TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK FAQ IS THERE A DIRECT RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN PRICE AND QUALITY? In general, yes. Like most things in life, you get what you pay for. If something seems too good to be true, it usually is. If a merchant is “giving away” suits, be skeptical. A few hallmarks of quality when it comes to luxury suits: hand-stitched canvas linings (not fused or glued) to retain shape; extra fabric on trouser inseams and interior seat for easier alterations; hand pick-stitched lapels (ironically, slightly uneven stitching is considered more upscale than too perfect); small knots between the buttons on the jacket for easier fastening; and a boutonniere stay under the lapel (for a subtle touch of class). ARE ITALIAN-MADE SUITS SUPERIOR TO SUITS MADE ELSEWHERE? Sometimes. Thereʼs a culture of fine tailoring in Italy that dates back centuries; itʼs an art form thatʼs passed down from generation to generation (some joke itʼs in the pasta!) and many of the great Italian clothing makers are still family businesses. Whatʼs more, certain sections of the country specialize in specific types of tailoring: Neapolitan tailoring features a closer-to-the-body fit, a higher armhole and a shoulder that looks somewhat shirred or pleated. Thereʼs often a lot of hand tailoring that goes into fine Italian suits and, just as importantly, a lot of pride. However, there are inferior workshops in Italy just as there are exceptional tailoring facilities in China. While ʻmade in Italyʼ is generally an asset (especially when it comes to luxury fabrics), never let country of origin be the sole determining factor in buying a suit. Also know that there are many high quality clothing factories located in North America. WHAT ABOUT JACKET LENGTH AND SLEEVES? Sleeves should be somewhat shorter than they used to be, never below the wrist, always showing a bit (one quarter to one half inch) of shirt sleeve. The rule on jacket length used to be that the bottom of the jacket should hit the tip of your thumb. If youʼre a modern kind of guy, go up a bit from there. Cuffs or no cuffs? Flatfront trousers are generally left uncuffed. FLATFRONTS OR PLEATS? Flatfronts are now the standard, at about 70 percent of the total trouser business at retail. But ironically, European runways are once again featuring some elongated pleats. That said, wear flatfronts for a modern look. WHERE SHOULD PANTS BREAK? No break is needed with todayʼs slimmer flatfront trousers, but for those uncomfortable with this (some think no break makes the pant feel too short), choose a slight break so the pant rests on the top of the shoe. Tip: Sock color should generally match the trouser color; shoes can add contrast. Italian men often wear brown shoes with their navy and gray suits; we totally approve! HOW OFTEN DO SUITS CLEAN NEED SUIT TO BE DRY CLEANED? As infrequently as possible. Harsh chemicals in cleaning fluids can damage fine fabrics and wreak havoc on fused interlinings (the melted “glue” causes the suit to ripple after too many cleanings.) That said, out of the 32,000 dry cleaners in America, a few hundred are considered exceptional. Some are even “green” meaning theyʼve reduced water, energy and chemical usage in an attempt to encourage environmentally responsible cleaning methods. Some of these are specially trained and certified by Americaʼs Best Cleaners (ABC) as Couture Care Specialists. Check with ABC (or ask us) for the top cleaners in your area. A few tips to prolong the life of your suit: Spot clean when necessary (and as soon as possible after the stain); brush your suit at night (ideally with a brush made of horse hair or boarʼs bristle); lightly steam suits if necessary (experts say that contrary to popular opinion, wool loves water and humidity); buy good quality hangers; create a bit of space between suits hanging in your closet; rotate your wardrobe so you leave a few days between wearings. WHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW ABOUT FORMALWEAR? Every man should own at least one formal suit or tuxedo. Renting isnʼt an ideal option, since you end up spending a lot of money on something you donʼt really love (and that some other guy has previously worn!). When buying, consider these factors: 1) Black is classic and universally accepted; navy is a viable fashion option; 2) Peak lapels are the standard but shawl collars and notch lapels are also good choices; 3) Lapels should have a satin or silk faille facing in the same color as the tux fabric. Stay away from contrast color lapels: they are much too gimmicky. www.MRketplace.com TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK MADE-TO-MEASURE The Human Touch: Made-to-measure raises tailored clothing sales to an art form. Photo courtesy of HMS International, cloth by Gladson TODAYʼS MADE-TO-MEASURE WORLD HAS, LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE, BEEN AFFECTED BY THE INTERNET AND TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCES. However, as Joe Blair of Individualized Apparel Group says, “Itʼs always about people, relationships and actually putting your hands on the customer. Anything that happens beyond that can only help.” The made-to-measure, or MTM, customer chooses from a limited̶though far-ranging̶selection of fabric swatches and suiting styles. He may be invited to try on a few standardized garments to gain an idea of size range and fit. Standardized patterns allowing some variation of silhouettes are then tweaked to fit, based on the customerʼs measurements, correcting for his specific physique. MTM is the more common of the “individually tailored” businesses in the United States. Custom, or bespoke, suiting is a much more elaborate process involving the creation of patterns specifically for a certain customer, and involves multiple garment fittings. It also involves more hand-construction throughout the garment. Keep in mind that the terms ʻmade-to-measureʼ and ʻcustomʼ are reversed in Canada and some other countries. Although most modern shoppers are used to buynow/wear-now purchases, the custom MTM experience offers a man the opportunity to indulge his specific tastes in fabric and detailing, while remedying shortcomings̶or addressing advantages̶that nature or the gym may have thrown his way. Ben Ayres of Coppley points out that their MTM program “allows for at least 16 variations in fit̶even left to right variations. The most important thing to consider in clothing is fit. What does it look like on the customer? After that, itʼs all about making sure itʼs well-constructed.” “People are buying a piece of me,” says custom tailor and former talent agent Waraire Boswell. “I work with a lot of actors and athletes and if they are super tall [Boswell, himself, stands 6 foot 7 inches] or have an odd body, I have to really understand that personʼs specific needs. Iʼm very particular about my procedures and am against sharing measurements with other tailors. Another tailor doesnʼt know whatʼs ʻactualʼ and what needs an allowance...if somebody takes my measurements to somebody else, theyʼre going to mess it up.” Still, modern advances in communications and technology, as well as increasing skill in Asia and Latin America, have also lowered the cost of entry into what has been, until relatively recently, the exclusive province of the wealthy. “As we look at technology, there are multiple components. Some the customers see, some they donʼt!” says Colin Hunter of Alton Lane (with locations in New York City, Washington, D.C. and launching soon in Boston). Hunterʼs Manhattan salon includes a 3D body scanner for part of their measuring routine; however, “Our website is probably the most obvious way we use technology. The more we can www.MRketplace.com TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK MADE-TOMEASURE learn about a customer before the appointment, the better. We can have sample garments pulled and ready to make it a more personalized experience. On the back-end, weʼve added a whole video quality control component to our production process. We find thatʼs important when working with difficult body types. We can look at a garment and make corrections at the factory level.” “Thirty years ago there were master tailors everywhere,” says Arnie Roberti at Adrian Jules. “Now they just arenʼt around. Not a week goes by that I donʼt get a call from somebody looking for one. Since the 1990s, weʼve had to rely on technology in our factory to keep the shop moving. We can still use a CAD system to implement a customized pattern for each client. (That took a few years to develop.) Whatʼs great is that we can store it digitally so itʼs easily modified for weight gain or loss. Itʼs very precise. Itʼs not cheap! But it ensures the continuity of our business.” “In general, todayʼs customer is looking for more value, even at the higher end,” says Joseph Wendt of Christian Boscherini. “People are working harder and longer, so the time frame is very important. Guys with plenty of money can get whatever they want, but they still want value in their $4,000 suit. With all of that, even if a business can spend a few hundred grand on one of those high-tech measuring booths, it still canʼt replace a guy who can measure well,” Wendt argues. “It will give you posture and proportions that donʼt make any sense̶and itʼs not as mobile! Seventy-five percent of my business is done ʻoutʼ at a customerʼs office or home.” ZEN & THE ART OF MIMMO Made-to-measure legend Domenico “Mimmo” Spano offers 10 precious tips to the novice salesperson. BE VERY HONEST. If you project that attitude, your customer will pick up on it. When you first approach him, never ask “May I help you?” Thatʼs an automatic turn-off. Speak to him casually, compliment his tie, talk about other things...put him at ease. Then start the conversation by asking him where he buys his clothes. Look at him. How does he dress? Flamboyantly? Plainly? How can you accommodate his face and his shape? Ask what he does for a living. What kind of fabrics will project the image he needs? Take his measurements yourself; good tailors are hard to find. Have him try on the fitting models from your custom program to understand what kind of corrections you will need to make. Donʼt overdo it. This is MTM, not custom. Remember that there is only so much you can do. Make the jacket a little shorter; watch the point to point. Check the customerʼs posture and make the front a little longer...but donʼt touch the shoulder. It will come out wrong and alter the original look of the suit. MIMMOʼS TIPS Guys with plenty of money can get whatever they want, but they still want value in their $4,000 suit. ̶Joseph Wendt, Christian Boscherini The MTM sales environment seems to take on even more significance than regular apparel sales. A relative newcomer to the business, Brian Mazza of New York Cityʼs Windsor Custom started his shop with Ralph Lauren alumni Ryan Grayson in December 2011. Mazza comes from the hospitality business and runs The Ainsworth, a sort of sports bar/restaurant. “We see that a lot of guys hate shopping,” says Mazza, “so often theyʼll come here in a group, then go upstairs [Windsor Custom is one level below the restaurant] for dinner. Sometimes we even just have dinner brought down here for them.” The well-appointed shop features a pool table and furniture that Grayson designed. Then thereʼs the duoʼs iPhone covers: “Rachel Zoe tweeted them,” says Grayson proudly. Always measure the hips! If a guyʼs thighs are bigger, you can always correct down from a larger waist size̶you can never correct up from a smaller one. Once heʼs picked out the suit, casually make suggestions about shirts and ties that might go with the suit. If he is buying a plaid jacket, perhaps a pair of trousers that would allow him to wear the jacket as a sportcoat. Youʼre adding value, demonstrating your taste level and showing that you know what youʼre doing. Always follow up! Process the order promptly. Call him the next day to thank him for stopping by. Call him in a week or so to assure him that his suit will be here soon̶donʼt wait for him to call you asking where his suit is̶when a customer calls you, thatʼs bad news. Call him promptly when the suit arrives and be there yourself̶heʼs your client, not the tailorʼs. Again, follow up! Call him to ensure that heʼs happy with the suit. Never assume “no news is good news.” If he has to call you because thereʼs a problem, thatʼs bad. If he doesnʼt call you and thereʼs a problem, thatʼs worse, because he wonʼt ever come back and he may talk badly about you to others. In a few weeks, send him a small gift̶extra buttons for the suit in case he should lose one. Something to show you truly care. www.MRketplace.com Reprints of this special supplement are available in-print and on the web Please contact Michelle Brown for your free copies 212-710-7413 [email protected] DETAILED COVERAGE Clothing and furnishings hold steady on fashionʼs center stage. Like a luxury automobile, a fine timepiece or a great audio system, todayʼs tailored clothing is all about the details. Surgeonʼs cuffs, beautifully finished interiors with lots of hidden pockets, pickstiching, zippers and lapel details all update the category. Photographed by Stephen Ciuccoli Tallia Orange jacket, Hickey Freeman vest, Gitman Brothers shirt, Carrot & Gibbs tie. STYLING BY JOHN JONES AND CYNTHIA LUCERO. MODEL: ADAM VON ROTHFELDER, Q MODEL MANAGEMENT. GROOMING: ADRIANA DESILVA. PHOTO ASSISTANT: ANGELO DIVINCENZO. STYLING ASSISTANT: SHAUN LEVINE. TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK This page, clockwise from top: Adolfo sportcoat, Calvin Klein necktie, Gitman Bros. shirt. Michael Kors jacket. James Campbell sportcoat, Tommy Hilfiger bow tie, Seaward & Stern pocket square. James Campbell suit coat. www.MRketplace.com TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK BREAKING NEWS This page, clockwise from top left: Zanetti Elements suit, Tallia Orange shirt, Via Spiga belt, Original Penguin tie. Zanetti sportcoat, Gitman Bros. shirt, Original Penguin bow tie, Countess Mara pocket square. Wurkin Stiffs cuff link, Calvin Klein shirt, Tommy Hilfiger tie. Assorted Ben Sherman ties. Palm Beach jacket, Edward Armah pocket circle. Trim-fits are the new norm. Seasonal fabrics and bow ties are must haves. Jewelry, from tie bars and clips to cufflinks, add flash. Retro patterns rule the day. Stay tuned for further details. Ike Behar suit, Gitman Gold shirt, Countess Mara tie and pocket square, Charriol watch. www.MRketplace.com TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK This page, clockwise from top: Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein and Calvin Klein shirts. Stinson R. Ely trousers. Hickey Freeman herringbone sportcoat with leather trim details, Gitman Bros. shirt and tie. SPECIAL REPORT Necktie, scarf or pocket square, itʼs a new era of self expression. Plaids and seasonal fabrics continue to be strong in shirts, as are clean, formal looks. The outlier? Look for pattern and color in bottoms and bold detailing in sportcoats for casual occasions. Arnold Brant suit, Geoffrey Beene shirt, Fraas scarf, Robert Graham pocket square. www.MRketplace.com Santorelli Made in Italy ®
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