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Beauty Bulletin
Newsletter for silica in personal care
Another newsletter?
Manufactures of personal care products
have thousands of different raw materials to choose from. New raw materials are constantly being developed that
offer new and unique properties for
the cosmetics of today and tomorrow.
AEROSIL® fumed silica and SIPERNAT®
precipitated silica have been used in
personal care and cosmetic products for
many years and therefore might be considered as “traditional” ingredients that,
although very useful and of high quality,
don’t have much new to offer. But is it
really so? We at Evonik strongly believe
that AEROSIL® and SIPERNAT® products
enable new and exciting formulation
Introduction
ACEMATT® TS 100
– Adding versatility
to your nail polish
formulations
Only a small stroke of nail polish is needed to create a new personal expression.
As this can be done in a very affordable
way, nail polishes have gained a strong
popularity in current beauty and fashion styles. Formulators have created nail
polishes in multiple colors to fit to the
latest fashion trends and the moods of
the consumer. But, what if a simple color
change is not enough to get the attention that your nail polish formulations
deserve?
opportunities. Innovations don’t always
have to be the result of new products,
but the reimagining of existing ones.
This newsletter is to inform personal
care formulators and other interested
people of novel concepts and new developments related to the use of silica in
cosmetic formulations.
If you do not focus on new product
formulation yourself, please feel free
to distribute this newsletter on to your
R&D colleagues or whoever might be
interested in your organization.
Issue 1 | 2013
Topic
ACEMATT® TS 100 –
a high performance
matting agent
Matt nail polish
formulations with
ACEMATT® TS 100
Crackle nail polish
formulations with
ACEMATT® TS 100
in-cosmetics in Paris
on April 16 – 18,
booth D81
2 SILIC A FOR BE AUT Y
ACEMATT® TS 100, a silica matting
agent, may open new and exciting ways
to create nail polish formulations that
stand out from the crowd. This product
will allow the formulator to add unique
characteristics and dimensions to a formulation without relying on traditional
methods such as pigment selection.
In this newsletter we want to introduce
you to this new product and provide
insight on how ACEMATT® TS 100 can
be used to formulate nail polishes with a
matt or crackle finish.
wet coating
ACEMATT® TS 100 is a unique matting
agent produced by flame hydrolysis. Due
to its specific structure and particle size,
it is able to produce matt surfaces with
low levels of addition. In traditional nail
polish formulations, the even surface of
the coating leads the light to be reflected directly off the surface into the eyes.
This direct reflection leads the eye to
perceive the surface as glossy. When a
matting agent is added to a system, the
surface of the coating become rough,
resulting in the amount of light that is
film shrinkage due
to the solvent
evaporation
dry coating
directly reflected reduced. The overall
intensity or disruption of the ref lection depends on the degree of surface-roughness. This alteration of the
surface causes the eye to perceive the
finish to be matted as opposed to glossy.
ACEMATT® TS 100 (INCI name: Silica)
is characterized by a very high matting
efficiency for these types of formulations.
When painting the nails, evaporation of the solvents in the lacquer
causes the shrinkage of the coating.
ACEMATT® TS 100, with an average
particle size of approximately 9.5 µm,
stands out from the lacquer layer, thereby forming a micro-rough surface after
drying. (see fig. 1). This micro-rough
surface causes enough surface roughness to alter the light scattering of
the coating but not the feel of the
coating on the nail. By incorporating
ACEMATT® TS 100, a matted nail polish can be created while keeping the
smooth finish on the nail.
Figure 1 Schematic representation of the mechanism of matting agents
Matt nail polish
formulations with
ACEMATT® TS 100
Traditionally, gloss and color have been
the two predominant parameters in a
nail polish. Ultra glossy nail polishes
have become quite common and familiar in nail decoration. Matt nail polish
instantly makes your nails stand out
from others due to their exceptionally
unique and stylish look. Nail polishes
with a matt effect are easily formulated
using EVONIK Industries’ ACEMATT®
TS 100. Due to its excellent matting
behavior and good dispersibility, only a
small concentration of ACEMATT® TS
100 is required to see these benefits.
ACEMATT® TS 100 can be easily incorporated into any traditional nail polish
formulation with only very limited reformulation work.
Beauty Bulletin | Issue 1 | 13
As demonstrated in figure 2, ACEMATT®
TS 100 is an excellent matting agent
which gives a smooth and silky matt film
on the nails.
Figure 2 Matt nail finish created with ACEMATT® TS 100
SILIC A FOR BE AUT Y 3
Matt Nail Polish
Phase
Ingredients
INCI name
1
Nail polish base
Butyl Acetate; Ethyl Acetate,
Nitrocellulose, Isopropyl Alcohol
AEROSIL® R 972 1
% w/w
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
2.00
2
ACEMATT® TS 100 Silica
2.00
3
Pigment
Pre-dispersed pigments
2.00
1
Total
1
94.00
100.00
Evonik Industries AG, Inorganic Materials
• Add AEROSIL® R 972 to the nail polish
base and disperse with dissolver for at
least 15 minutes.
• Add ACEMATT® TS 100 to Phase 1 and
disperse with moderate speed for 10
minutes.
• Add pre-dispersed pigments and stir
until homogeneous mixture is obtained.
Note:
The benefit of AEROSIL® R 972 is to
improve the suspension stability of the
nail polish formulation.
Crackle nail polish
formulations with
ACEMATT® TS 100
For the even more daring consumers,
shatter or crackle nail polishes recently
have surfaced as another fashion trend.
These polishes give interesting two colored patterns on the nails which catches
everybody’s eyes. Crackle nail polishes
come in an eclectic range of different
colors and shades to give versatility in
the final style. To create this nail art
three different coats are necessary: a
base coat, a crackle coat and final top
coat. The base coat and crackle coat are
usually in contrasting colors. The base
coat can be dark and crackle coat light
or vice versa. The crackle coat can also
contain glitter particles or pearlescent
pigments for further flexibility.
This technique is an inexpensive
form of nail art. Crackle nail polish can
be applied simply by the customer without added visits to nail salons, which is
a distinct difference to other elaborate
nail art techniques and opens these
products to a wider part of the market.
Evonik’s ACEMATT® TS 100 is used
in the base coat as well as crackle coat.
It is advised to add up to 2 wt. % matting agent to the base coat formulation
and 4 – 7 wt.% in the formulation of the
crackle coat.
Figure 3 Crackle nail polish using ACEMATT® TS 100
The formulator of nail polish can easily
design the crackle pattern by modifying
the ACEMATT® TS 100 concentration
in the crackle coat formulation. (see
Figure 4). By adding a small amount of
3 wt. %
5 wt. %
ACEMATT® TS 100 fine lined crackles
are produced. By incorporating a larger
concentration of ACEMATT® TS 100,
the crackles become more pronounced,
leading to a more eye-catching pattern.
7 wt. %
Figure 4 Examples of crackle nail polishes in different colors using increasing concentrations of
ACEMATT® TS 100 in the crackle coat
Beauty Bulletin | Issue 1 | 13
4 SILIC A FOR BE AUT Y
Besides the formulation materials, the
final look is also influenced by the thickness of the film applied to the nail. The
crackling is an extremely random and
unpredictable process which leads to
a unique finish on each individual nail.
The thinner the crackle coat is applied,
the smaller the cracks will be. A thicker
crackle coat will result in more visible
cracks. For best results, it is necessary for the base coat to completely
dry before the crackle coat is applied.
After a thick coat of the crackle polish
has been applied and dried, it produces a
matt appearance but tends to be brittle.
In order to preserve the polish and prevent chipping, it is advisable to finish the
decoration with a protective top coat.
Crackle Nail Polish System
Base Coat
Phase
Ingredients
INCI name
% w/w
1
Nail polish base
Butyl Acetate; Ethyl Acetate,
Nitrocellulose, Isopropyl Alcohol
2
AEROSIL® R 972 1
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
2.00
3
ACEMATT® TS 100 1
Silica
2.00
4
Pigment
Pre- dispersed pigments
3.00
Total
1
93.00
100.00
Evonik Industries AG, Inorganic Materials
Crackle Coat
Phase
Ingredients
INCI name
1
Nail polish base
Butyl Acetate; Ethyl Acetate, Nitrocellulose,
Isopropyl Alcohol
15.00
Ethyl Acetate
Ethyl Acetate
53.00
2
ACEMATT® TS 100 1
Silica
3
Isopropyl Alcohol
Isopropyl Alcohol
4
Pigment
Pre- dispersed pigments
Total
1
• Add AEROSIL® R 972 to the nail polish
base and disperse with dissolver for at
least 15 minutes.
• Add ACEMATT® TS 100 to Phase 1
and disperse with moderate speed for
10 minutes.
• Add pre-dispersed pigments and stir
until homogeneous mixture is obtained.
% w/w
5.00
25.00
2.00
100.00
• Add ethyl acetate to the nail polish base.
• Add ACEMATT® TS 100, wet while
stirring with moderate speed.
• Add isopropyl alcohol and pre-dispersed
pigments and homogenize with low
speed for at least 15 minutes.
Note:
The concentration of ACEMATT® TS 100
can be varied from 4 – 7 wt. % by altering the concentration of ethyl acetate.
Evonik Industries AG, Inorganic Materials
Evonik Industries AG
Inorganic Materials
Rodenbacher Chaussee 4
63457 Hanau
Germany
phone +49 6181 59-12532
[email protected]
www.evonik.com
This information and all technical and other advice are based on Evonik’s present knowledge
and experience. However, Evonik assumes no liability for such information or advice, including
the extent to which such information or advice may relate to third party intellectual property
rights. Evonik reserves the right to make any changes to information or advice at any time, without
prior or subsequent notice. EVONIK DISCLAIMS ALL REPRESENTATIONS AND WARRANTIES,
WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, AND SHALL HAVE NO LIABILITY FOR, MERCHANTABILITY OF THE PRODUCT OR ITS FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE (EVEN IF EVONIK IS
AWARE OF SUCH PURPOSE), OR OTHERWISE. EVONIK SHALL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR
CONSEQUENTIAL, INDIRECT OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES (INCLUDING LOSS OF PROFITS)
OF ANY KIND. It is the customer’s sole responsibility to arrange for inspection and testing of all
products by qualified experts. Reference to trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation nor an endorsement of the corresponding product, and does not imply that similar
products could not be used.
AEROSIL® is a registered trademark of Evonik Degussa GmbH.
Issue 1 | 2013 – Newsletter for silica in personal care preparations