Fractal Hues techniques by ian michael bLAck Behind Fractal Hues Ian Michael Black, Aveda Global Artistic Director, Hair Color, presents Fractal Hues, a new personal collection speaking to a love of high fashion and strong color. The collection celebrates Aveda Hair Color through looks that balance color, texture and patterns using the same methodology of fashion designers. Fractal Hues marries fashion, color and pattern together for an overall photographic aesthetic that includes bright backdrops and high-fashion clothes. Hair is cut with a more commercial approach and styled with soft movement to showcase the bold shades. All looks were created with Aveda Hair Color, featuring enlightenment™ blonding, full spectrum™ permanent and full spectrum deep.™ table of contents 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Fractal Hues_Long Multicolored (LOOK 1) *3 Steps 1 2 3 red (LOOK 1) 4 2 Formula A P relighten to pale yellow using Formula A. 1 1scoopenlightener™ powder lightener 60 ml 10 volume color catalyst™ P rocess, rinse, shampoo, condition and dry. Section as illustrated. Formula B In section 1 (nape), alternate applying Formulas B and C using a color blocking technique. 40 g Universal ØN 20 g Pure Green 50 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ 3 * large, irregular-size In section 2 (interior), take triangle subsections,2and alternate applying 2 Formulas D–G. 5 Formulas 2 2 6 In section 3 (hairline, part 1 and point of distribution), apply Formula H to all the remaining hair. 7 P rocess, rinse, shampoo and perform the appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment. 1 Formula 3 C 20 g Universal ØN 20 g Pure Yellow 40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ Formula D 20 g Pure Orange 5 g Pure Red 25 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ Formula E *3 40 g Universal ØN 4 g Pure Violet 44 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ 3 2 2 2 1 1 Formula F 3 2 2 20 g Pure Yellow 10 g Pure Orange 30 ml 10 volume color catalyst™ Formula G 20 g Universal ØN 10 g Pure Blue 30 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ Formula H 3 2 1 35 g Extra Lifting Creme 5 g Pure Green 2.5 g Pure Yellow 40 ml 10 volume color catalyst™ 3 2 2 See pages 18–19 for detailed patch test, processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines. 3 Fractal Hues_Short Yellow Fractal (LOOK Hues_Short 5) Yellow (LOOK 5) “Vibrant hair color has never been so on-trend, and I love seeing it so strongly represented in the fashion world.” LOOK ractal 5) Hues_Short Yellow (LOOK 5) Steps Formulas 1 2 3 4 P relighten to pale yellow using Formula A. 5 Beginning in a back quadrant, take ½" diagonal subsections, and alternate applying Formulas B and C through the ends. Repeat in all quadrants. 6 P rocess, rinse, shampoo and perform the appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment. Formula A 1 scoop enlightener™ powder lightener 60 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ P rocess, rinse, shampoo, condition and dry. Section into quadrants as illustrated. Formula B 40 g Pure Yellow 40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ A pply Formula B to all the hair at the scalp using a rough re-touch application. Formula C 30 g Universal ØN 5 g Pure Yellow 35 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ See pages 18–19 for detailed patch test, processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines. 5 * * 3 4 4 5 2 2 1 1 Fractal y (LOOKHues_Long 4) Blue/Grey (LOOK 4) 3 * 4 3 * 5 3 4 4 5 2 1 5 2 2 1 1 3 4 5 2 5 1 5 3 4 2 Steps 3 4 2 1 3 1 2 3 4 5 4 A. P relighten to pale yellow using Formula 5 5 53 2 2 P rocess, rinse, shampoo, condition2and dry. 5 In sections 2 (interior) and 3 (fringe), apply Formula C from scalp to ends. Isolate with foil. 6 In sections 4 (top) and 5 (sides), apply Formula D 5 55 from scalp to ends. Isolate with foil. 7 P rocess, rinse, shampoo and perform the 4 4 appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment. 5 2 3 4 4 1 Section as illustrated. 1 1 2 5 2 2 * Formulas Formula5A 3 4 4 * 2 2 Formula B 2 * 20 g Universal ØN 20 g Pastel Blue 40 ml 10 volume color catalyst™ Formula C 3 * 2 1 scoop enlightener™ powder lightener 60 ml 10 volume color catalyst™ In section 1 (nape), apply Formula B from scalp to ends. Isolate with foil. 3 5 * 2 40 g Universal ØN 8 g Pure Blue 48 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ Formula D 40 g Extra Lifting Creme 4 g Pastel Blue 4 g Pastel Violet 48 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ See pages 18–19 for detailed patch test, processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines. 7 5 *2 *2 2 1 1 2 1 1 (LOOK Fractal 6) Hues_Short Red (LOOK 6) 2 1 2 1 *2 2 *2 1 1 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 1 Steps Formulas 1 2 3 4 P relighten to pale yellow using Formula A. 5 A pply Formula C to all the remaining hair in section 1. Isolate with foil. Formula C 6 In section 2 (top), apply Formula B to all the hair at the scalp using a1 rough re-touch1application. Formula D 7 2 remaining hair in 2 A pply Formula D to all the section 2. Isolate with foil. 8 P rocess, rinse, shampoo and perform the appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment. 2 2 2 Formula A ™ powder lightener 11 scoop enlightener 1 P rocess, 1rinse, shampoo, condition and dry. 1 1 2 Section as illustrated. 60 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ 2 Formula B 40 g Pure Red 10 g 5Natural Lightest Brown 10 g Intense Base 60 ml 20 volume color catalyst™ In section 1 (nape), apply Formula B to all the hair from scalp to mid-lengths using a rough re-touch application. 40 g Pure Red 40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ 20 g Universal ØN 20 g Pure Red 40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ See pages 18–19 for detailed patch test, processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines. 9 ractal OK 3) Hues_Long Grey (LOOK 3) Steps 1 P relighten the ends of the hair to pale yellow using Formula A. Use a color feathering technique to create a soft, blended effect. 2 3 4 P rocess, rinse, shampoo, condition and dry. Formulas Formula A 1 scoop enlightener™ powder lightener 60 ml 10 volume color catalyst™ Formula B Section into quadrants as illustrated. Beginning in a back quadrant, take ½" diagonal subsections, and apply Formula B from the scalp to just past where the prelightened hair begins (approximately eye-level). Use a color feathering technique to create a soft, blended effect. Repeat in all quadrants. 5 A pply Formula C to all the remaining prelightened hair. 6 P rocess, rinse, shampoo and perform the appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment. 40 g2Natural Dark Brown (full spectrum deep™ shade) 80 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ Formula C 40 g Extra Lifting Creme 4 g Pastel Blue 4 g Pastel Violet 4 gLight Blue/Grey (full spectrum deep™ shade) 52 ml 10 volume color catalyst™ See pages 18–19 for detailed patch test, processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines. 11 “I’ve always been drawn to the fashion models and designers who are making changes in the industry and aren’t afraid of color in a way that represents personality and signifies confidence.” Fractal Hues_Short Blue (LOOK 7) Steps 1 2 3 4 Formulas Formula A Prelighten to pale yellow using Formula A. 1 scoop enlightener™ powder lightener 60 ml 20 volume color catalyst™ Process, rinse, shampoo, condition and dry. Section as illustrated. Formula B 40 g Pure Blue 40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ In the perimeter section, apply Formula B from scalp to ends. Isolate with foil. 5 A pply Formula B to all the hair at the scalp in the diamond-shape sections using a rough re-touch application. 6 A pply Formula C to all the remaining hair in the small diamond-shape sections, Fractal Hues_Short Blue (LOOK 7)and apply Formula D to all the remaining hair in the large diamond-shape sections. Isolate with foil. 7 P rocess, rinse, shampoo and perform the appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment. Formula C 20 g Universal ØN 20 g Pure Blue 40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ Formula D 30 g Universal ØN 10 g Pure Blue 40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ See pages 18–19 for detailed patch test, processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines. 13 1 Fractal Hues_Long Red Fractal MultiHues_Long (LOOK 2) Red Multi (LOOK 2) 3 3 2 2 *3 *3 “I love playing with colors and patterns to create a total look, like a garment comprised of many shades and shapes that create one beautiful whole.” 1 1 2 3 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 Multi ractal(LOOK Hues_Long 2) Red Multi (LOOK 2) 3 3 2 2 1 *3 1 3 2 2 *3 2 1 1 3 3 3 2 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 3 Steps 3 2 1 2 1 3 4 3 3 Formulas 3 Formula A Prelighten using Formula A. 2 2 2 to pale yellow ™ powder lightener 1 1 scoop enlightener 1 Process, rinse, shampoo, condition and dry. 1 1 1 Section as illustrated. 60 ml 20 volume color catalyst™ 3 In section 1 (nape), apply Formula B from scalp to ends. Isolate with foil. 2 2 3 Formula B 35 g Pure Orange 5 g Pure Red 40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ 5 In section 2 (interior), apply Formula C from scalp to ends. Isolate with foil. Formula C 6 In section 3 (top), apply Formula D from scalp to ends. Isolate with foil. Formula D 7 1 1 P rocess, rinse, shampoo and perform the appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment. 2 2 3 2 3 40 g Pure Yellow 40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ 40 g Universal ØN 8 g Pure Violet 48 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ See pages 18–19 for detailed patch test, processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines. 15 3 Fractal Hues_Short Apricot Fractal(LOOK Hues_Short 8) Apricot (LOOK 8) “Formulating color is mathematical—beyond visualizing which colors will work together, you need to understand the math behind the formulation so you create the color you envision.” Fractal (LOOKHues_Short 8) Apricot (LOOK 8) Steps Formulas 1 2 3 4 Prelighten to pale yellow using Formula A. 5 6 Process for 10 minutes. 7 P rocess, rinse, shampoo and perform the appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment. Formula A 1 scoop enlightener™ powder lightener 60 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ Process, rinse, shampoo, condition and dry. Section into quadrants as illustrated. pply Formula B to all the hair at the scalp using A a rough re-touch application. pply Formula C through the ends, and process A for 15 minutes. Formula B 30 g Universal ØN 10 g Pure Red 40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ Formula C 40 g Universal ØN 2 g Pure Red .5 g Pure Violet 42.5 ml 5 volume color catalyst™ See pages 18–19 for detailed patch test, processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines. 17 Patch Test Guidelines After the consultation, perform a patch test using your selected formula. WHO A preliminary patch test should be made before each application on every guest. WHEN 48 hours before the service. WARNING Hair colorants can cause severe allergic reactions. Always read and follow instructions. Hair colorants are not intended for use on persons under the age of 16. Temporary “black henna” tattoos may increase the risk of allergy. HOW Patch Test Instructions for full spectrum™ hair color: 1 Using either soap and water or alcohol, clean a small area of skin behind the ear or on the inner surface of the forearm. Let area dry. 2 With an absorbent cotton tipped applicator, apply a small quantity of hair dye, as prepared for use, to the area and allow it to dry. 3 Do not cover or disturb for 48 hours. 4 Examine test area 24 and 48 hours later. If no reaction has occurred, proceed at once with hair coloring. The test should be carried out before each application. 5 The hair dye should never be used for dyeing eyebrows or eyelashes; to do so may cause blindness. DO NOT USE HAIR COLOR IF ANY OF THESE DANGER SIGNS APPEAR: burning, itching, swelling, eruption or irritation. Abnormal signs such as these in or around the test area may indicate hypersensitivity or allergy, and the product tested should not be used. In addition, do not color hair if: • There is a rash on face or sensitive, irritated and damaged scalp. • Client has ever experienced any reaction after coloring hair. • Client has experienced a reaction to a temporary “black henna” tattoo in the past. 18 Processing, Rinsing & Botanical Therapy Guidelines 1 Process hair color according to guidelines. 2 R inse hair thoroughly with comfortably hot water to remove color. 3 S hampoo with color conserve™ shampoo, apply color conserve™ pHinish™ and rinse again with cool water. 4 T owel-dry hair well to prepare for the appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment, which is applied based on the condition of the hair. For dry hair, perform the moisture treatment using dry remedy™ penetrating moisture. For damaged hair, perform the repair treatment using damage remedy™ penetrating protein. 5 P rocess at room temperature for 5 minutes and rinse. YOU DO NOT NEED TO SHAMPOO OR CONDITION THE HAIR. 6 S tyle as desired. 19 Credits HAIR COLOR & CREATIVE DIRECTION Ian Michael Black Aveda Global Artistic Director, Hair Color HAIR CUTTING & STYLING Ricardo Dinis Aveda Global Artistic Director, Hair Cutting MAKEUP Janell Geason Aveda Global Artistic Director, Makeup PHOTOGRAPHY Sarah Silver Our mission at Aveda is to care for the world we live in, from the products we make to the ways in which we give back to society. At Aveda, we strive to set an example for environmental leadership and responsibility, not just in the world of beauty, but around the world. horst rechelbacher, founder Fractal Hues: Techniques by Ian Michael Black | 2/2015 Please recycle. ©Aveda Corp., Minneapolis, MN 55449-7106 USA 800.328.0849 / 763.951.6999 avedaeducation.com
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