Behind Fractal Hues

Fractal Hues
techniques by ian michael bLAck
Behind Fractal Hues
Ian Michael Black, Aveda Global Artistic Director, Hair Color,
presents Fractal Hues, a new personal collection speaking to a
love of high fashion and strong color. The collection celebrates
Aveda Hair Color through looks that balance color, texture and
patterns using the same methodology of fashion designers.
Fractal Hues marries fashion, color and pattern together for an overall photographic
aesthetic that includes bright backdrops and high-fashion clothes. Hair is cut with a more
commercial approach and styled with soft movement to showcase the bold shades.
All looks were created with Aveda Hair Color, featuring enlightenment™ blonding,
full spectrum™ permanent and full spectrum deep.™
table of contents
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
Fractal Hues_Long Multicolored (LOOK 1)
*3
Steps 1
2
3
red (LOOK 1)
4
2
Formula A
P
relighten to pale yellow using Formula A.
1 1scoopenlightener™ powder
lightener
60 ml 10 volume color catalyst™
P
rocess, rinse, shampoo, condition and dry.
Section as illustrated.
Formula B
In section 1 (nape), alternate applying Formulas B
and C using a color blocking technique.
40 g Universal ØN
20 g Pure Green
50 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
3
* large, irregular-size
In section 2 (interior), take
triangle subsections,2and alternate
applying
2
Formulas D–G.
5
Formulas
2
2
6
In section 3 (hairline, part
1 and point of distribution),
apply Formula H to all the remaining hair.
7
P
rocess, rinse, shampoo and perform the
appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment.
1
Formula
3 C
20 g Universal ØN
20 g Pure Yellow
40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
Formula D
20 g Pure Orange
5 g Pure Red
25 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
Formula E
*3
40 g Universal ØN
4 g Pure Violet
44 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
3
2
2
2
1
1
Formula F
3
2
2
20 g Pure Yellow
10 g Pure Orange
30 ml 10 volume color catalyst™
Formula G
20 g Universal ØN
10 g Pure Blue
30 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
Formula H
3
2
1
35 g Extra Lifting Creme
5 g Pure Green
2.5 g Pure Yellow
40 ml 10 volume color catalyst™
3
2
2
See pages 18–19 for detailed patch test, processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines.
3
Fractal Hues_Short Yellow
Fractal
(LOOK
Hues_Short
5)
Yellow (LOOK 5)
“Vibrant hair color has never been so on-trend,
and I love seeing it so strongly represented in
the fashion world.”
LOOK
ractal 5)
Hues_Short Yellow (LOOK 5)
Steps Formulas
1
2
3
4
P
relighten to pale yellow using Formula A.
5
Beginning in a back quadrant, take ½" diagonal
subsections, and alternate applying Formulas B
and C through the ends. Repeat in all quadrants.
6
P
rocess, rinse, shampoo and perform the
appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment.
Formula A
1 scoop enlightener™ powder lightener
60 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
P
rocess, rinse, shampoo, condition and dry.
Section into quadrants as illustrated.
Formula B
40 g Pure Yellow
40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
A
pply Formula B to all the hair at the scalp
using a rough re-touch application.
Formula C
30 g Universal ØN
5 g Pure Yellow
35 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
See pages 18–19 for detailed patch test, processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines.
5
*
*
3
4
4
5
2
2
1
1
Fractal
y (LOOKHues_Long
4)
Blue/Grey (LOOK 4)
3
*
4
3
*
5
3
4
4
5
2
1
5
2
2
1
1
3
4
5
2
5
1
5
3
4
2
Steps 3
4
2
1
3
1
2
3
4
5 4 A.
P
relighten to pale yellow using Formula
5
5
53
2
2
P
rocess, rinse,
shampoo,
condition2and dry.
5
In sections 2 (interior) and 3 (fringe), apply
Formula C from scalp to ends. Isolate with foil.
6
In sections 4 (top) and 5 (sides), apply Formula D
5
55
from scalp to ends.
Isolate with foil.
7
P
rocess, rinse, shampoo and perform the
4
4
appropriate
botanical therapy
hair treatment.
5
2
3
4
4
1
Section as illustrated.
1
1
2
5
2
2
*
Formulas
Formula5A
3
4
4
*
2
2
Formula B
2
* 20 g Universal
ØN
20 g Pastel Blue
40 ml 10 volume color catalyst™
Formula C
3
*
2
1 scoop enlightener™ powder lightener
60 ml 10 volume color catalyst™
In section 1 (nape), apply Formula B from scalp
to ends. Isolate with foil.
3
5
*
2
40 g Universal ØN
8 g Pure Blue
48 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
Formula D
40 g Extra Lifting Creme
4 g Pastel Blue
4 g Pastel Violet
48 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
See pages 18–19 for detailed patch test, processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines.
7
5
*2
*2
2
1
1
2
1
1
(LOOK
Fractal
6) Hues_Short Red (LOOK 6)
2
1
2
1
*2
2
*2
1
1
2
2
2
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
1
Steps Formulas
1
2
3
4
P
relighten to pale yellow using Formula A.
5
A
pply Formula C to all the remaining hair in
section 1. Isolate with foil.
Formula C
6
In section 2 (top), apply Formula B to all the hair
at the scalp using a1 rough re-touch1application.
Formula D
7
2 remaining hair in
2
A
pply Formula
D to all the
section 2. Isolate with foil.
8
P
rocess, rinse, shampoo and perform the
appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment.
2
2
2
Formula A
™ powder lightener
11 scoop enlightener
1
P
rocess, 1rinse, shampoo, condition
and dry.
1
1
2
Section as illustrated.
60 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
2
Formula B
40 g Pure Red
10 g 5Natural Lightest Brown
10 g Intense Base
60 ml 20 volume color catalyst™
In section 1 (nape), apply Formula B to all
the hair from scalp to mid-lengths using a
rough re-touch application.
40 g Pure Red
40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
20 g Universal ØN
20 g Pure Red
40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
See pages 18–19 for detailed patch test, processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines.
9
ractal
OK 3) Hues_Long Grey (LOOK 3)
Steps 1
P
relighten the ends of the hair to pale yellow
using Formula A. Use a color feathering
technique to create a soft, blended effect.
2
3
4
P
rocess, rinse, shampoo, condition and dry.
Formulas
Formula A
1 scoop enlightener™ powder lightener
60 ml 10 volume color catalyst™
Formula B
Section into quadrants as illustrated.
Beginning in a back quadrant, take ½" diagonal
subsections, and apply Formula B from the
scalp to just past where the prelightened hair
begins (approximately eye-level). Use a color
feathering technique to create a soft, blended
effect. Repeat in all quadrants.
5
A
pply Formula C to all the remaining
prelightened hair.
6
P
rocess, rinse, shampoo and perform the
appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment.
40 g2Natural Dark Brown
(full spectrum deep™ shade)
80 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
Formula C
40 g Extra Lifting Creme
4 g Pastel Blue
4 g Pastel Violet
4 gLight Blue/Grey
(full spectrum deep™ shade)
52 ml 10 volume color catalyst™
See pages 18–19 for detailed patch test, processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines.
11
“I’ve always been drawn to the fashion models
and designers who are making changes in the
industry and aren’t afraid of color in a way that
represents personality and signifies confidence.”
Fractal Hues_Short Blue (LOOK 7)
Steps 1
2
3
4
Formulas
Formula A
Prelighten to pale yellow using Formula A.
1 scoop enlightener™ powder lightener
60 ml 20 volume color catalyst™
Process, rinse, shampoo, condition and dry.
Section as illustrated.
Formula B
40 g Pure Blue
40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
In the perimeter section, apply Formula B
from scalp to ends. Isolate with foil.
5
A
pply Formula B to all the hair at the scalp
in the diamond-shape sections using a rough
re-touch application.
6
A
pply Formula C to all the remaining hair in the
small diamond-shape
sections,
Fractal Hues_Short
Blue (LOOK 7)and apply
Formula D to all the remaining hair in the large
diamond-shape sections. Isolate with foil.
7
P
rocess, rinse, shampoo and perform the
appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment.
Formula C
20 g Universal ØN
20 g Pure Blue
40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
Formula D
30 g Universal ØN
10 g Pure Blue
40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
See pages 18–19 for detailed patch test, processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines.
13
1
Fractal Hues_Long Red
Fractal
MultiHues_Long
(LOOK 2) Red Multi (LOOK 2)
3
3
2
2
*3
*3
“I love playing with colors and patterns to create
a total look, like a garment comprised of many
shades and shapes that create one beautiful whole.”
1
1
2
3
2
2
2
1
1
1
1
Multi
ractal(LOOK
Hues_Long
2)
Red Multi (LOOK 2)
3
3
2
2
1
*3
1
3
2
2
*3
2
1
1
3
3
3
2
1
1
2
2
1
1
1
3
Steps 3
2
1
2
1
3
4
3
3
Formulas
3
Formula A
Prelighten
using Formula
A.
2
2
2 to pale yellow
™ powder lightener
1 1 scoop enlightener
1
Process,
rinse, shampoo, condition and dry.
1
1
1
Section as illustrated.
60 ml 20 volume color catalyst™
3
In section 1 (nape), apply Formula B from scalp
to ends. Isolate with foil.
2
2
3
Formula
B
35 g Pure Orange
5 g Pure Red
40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
5
In section 2 (interior), apply Formula C from scalp
to ends. Isolate with foil.
Formula C
6
In section 3 (top), apply Formula D from scalp to
ends. Isolate with foil.
Formula D
7
1
1
P
rocess, rinse, shampoo and perform the
appropriate botanical
therapy
hair treatment.
2
2
3
2
3
40 g Pure Yellow
40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
40 g Universal ØN
8 g Pure Violet
48 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
See pages 18–19 for detailed patch test, processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines.
15
3
Fractal Hues_Short Apricot
Fractal(LOOK
Hues_Short
8)
Apricot (LOOK 8)
“Formulating color is mathematical—beyond
visualizing which colors will work together,
you need to understand the math behind the
formulation so you create the color you envision.”
Fractal
(LOOKHues_Short
8)
Apricot (LOOK 8)
Steps Formulas
1
2
3
4
Prelighten
to pale yellow using Formula A.
5
6
Process
for 10 minutes.
7
P
rocess, rinse, shampoo and perform the
appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment.
Formula A
1 scoop enlightener™ powder lightener
60 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
Process,
rinse, shampoo, condition and dry.
Section into quadrants as illustrated.
pply Formula B to all the hair at the scalp using
A
a rough re-touch application.
pply Formula C through the ends, and process
A
for 15 minutes.
Formula B
30 g Universal ØN
10 g Pure Red
40 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
Formula C
40 g Universal ØN
2 g Pure Red
.5 g Pure Violet
42.5 ml 5 volume color catalyst™
See pages 18–19 for detailed patch test, processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines.
17
Patch Test Guidelines
After the consultation, perform a patch test using your selected formula.
WHO
A preliminary patch test should be made
before each application on every guest.
WHEN
48 hours before the service.
WARNING
Hair colorants can cause severe allergic reactions.
Always read and follow instructions. Hair colorants
are not intended for use on persons under the age
of 16. Temporary “black henna” tattoos may
increase the risk of allergy.
HOW
Patch Test Instructions for full spectrum™ hair color:
1 Using either soap and water or alcohol, clean a small area of skin behind the ear or on the
inner surface of the forearm. Let area dry.
2 With an absorbent cotton tipped applicator, apply a small quantity of hair dye, as prepared
for use, to the area and allow it to dry.
3 Do not cover or disturb for 48 hours.
4 Examine test area 24 and 48 hours later. If no reaction has occurred, proceed at once with
hair coloring. The test should be carried out before each application.
5 The hair dye should never be used for dyeing eyebrows or eyelashes; to do so may
cause blindness.
DO NOT USE HAIR COLOR IF ANY OF THESE DANGER SIGNS APPEAR: burning, itching, swelling,
eruption or irritation. Abnormal signs such as these in or around the test area may indicate
hypersensitivity or allergy, and the product tested should not be used.
In addition, do not color hair if:
• There is a rash on face or sensitive, irritated and damaged scalp.
• Client has ever experienced any reaction after coloring hair.
• Client has experienced a reaction to a temporary “black henna” tattoo in the past.
18
Processing, Rinsing &
Botanical Therapy Guidelines
1 Process hair color according to guidelines.
2 R inse hair thoroughly with comfortably hot water to remove color.
3 S hampoo with color conserve™ shampoo, apply color conserve™ pHinish™
and rinse again with cool water.
4 T owel-dry hair well to prepare for the appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment,
which is applied based on the condition of the hair. For dry hair, perform the
moisture treatment using dry remedy™ penetrating moisture. For damaged hair,
perform the repair treatment using damage remedy™ penetrating protein.
5 P rocess at room temperature for 5 minutes and rinse. YOU DO NOT NEED TO
SHAMPOO OR CONDITION THE HAIR.
6 S tyle as desired.
19
Credits
HAIR COLOR & CREATIVE DIRECTION
Ian Michael Black
Aveda Global Artistic Director, Hair Color
HAIR CUTTING & STYLING
Ricardo Dinis
Aveda Global Artistic Director, Hair Cutting
MAKEUP
Janell Geason
Aveda Global Artistic Director, Makeup
PHOTOGRAPHY
Sarah Silver
Our mission at Aveda is to care for the
world we live in, from the products we
make to the ways in which we give back
to society. At Aveda, we strive to set an
example for environmental leadership and
responsibility, not just in the world of
beauty, but around the world.
horst rechelbacher, founder
Fractal Hues: Techniques by Ian Michael Black | 2/2015
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