1. hobbies and interests
2. arts and crafts
3. knitting

A Review of The Techniques of Knitting and Moulding
Pertinent to Seamless Fashion Creation
Frankie Ng
Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University
ABSTRACT
A study has been carried out to investigate the past and present techniques, processes and
procedures that enable creation of seamless fashion towards innovative ends. Among the
fifteen techniques investigated, knitting and moulding are by far two of the most developed
toward seamless clothing production. This paper gives a chronological review of the
development of these two techniques pertinent to seamless garment production that could be
deployed for seamless fashion creation.
Keywords: knitting, moulding, development, seamless fashion, seamless clothing.
1.
INTRODUCTION
The convention of fashion design and production involves cutting and seaming fabrics and
materials. This convention has in certain ways limited the way fashion can be created. Attempts
have been made to create clothing items without seams by various techniques and processes [1].
It is envisaged that the success of inventing techniques and processes with new materials to
eliminate seaming in fashion is of both original artistic merit and commercial value, and will
enhance future research in this area.
2.
TECHNIQUES
CREATION
AND
PROCESSES
ENABLING
SEAMLESS
FASHION
Fifteen techniques and processes were identified to be possible of seamless fashion creation. It
was realised that the stages of development of techniques possible of creating seamless
fashion vary. It was realised that the techniques of knitting and moulding are by far two of
the most advanced and developed toward seamless clothing production [2].
3.
KNITTING
Knitting has been one of the major influences in the development of fashion [3], perhaps
more so since the advent of the knitting frame by Reverend William Lee in 1589 [4-7].
Knitted hose of silk or wool worn with trunk breeches were standard dress in all social
classes. In fact, hose were worn by both men and women, though their respective styles
varied considerably. The prominence of knitting remained throughout the history of fashion.
The knitting industry expanded with overseas markets and domestic prosperity, and the
innovative stocking frame in the eighteenth century produced a variety of fashion items
including gloves, waistcoats, breeches, coats, and lace pieces. The later development of the
latch needle lead to the production of jumpers, cardigans, and shawls [8, 9].
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In recent history, there have been attempts of producing seamless hose while natural fibres
have affected knitting fashions. With its rapid research and development, knitting has become
one of the most sophisticated technologies towards seamlessness. Today, seamless clothing
items can be realised both by hand knitting and machine knitting.
Literature was found that revealed a possibility of knitting up a garment without seams by
grafting stitches - The seam of the first piece of garment is first fashioned off and by grafting
stitches of the second piece along the edges of the first piece; two pieces are thus joined
together [10]. Sommers illustrated another possibility of hand knitting a flat circle,
progressing to a circle with sides that cup into hat or basket forms, and finally to a completely
round sphere [11]. Given these possibilities of hand knitting, it would not be difficult to
realise more complicated seamless forms such as those in textile and fibre art [12], and
conceivably, seamless clothing items. In fact, an example of the production of an entirely
seamless garment by hand knitting was available [13], of which the circle closings of the
garment were grafted together with the surrounding areas of circular needle knitting. Later in
1986, a way to hand knit a seamless raglan-sleeved sweater by means of circular needles that
commenced from the waist hem upward was deliberated [14]. In 1988, knitting instructions
for a seamless neck-down designed sweater that may be adapted for any length, size, colour
and stitch combination was presented [15]. The basic sweater has a V-neck back and front,
elbow-length sleeves, and a slightly blouson waist-length body, with ribbing at the neck,
elbow, and waist. Experimentation of hand knitting the similar as that of Tudor was proved
possible by the author [16].
Seamless sweater by machine knitting has been made possible both by flat bed knitting and
tubular knitting machines. A method of tubular knitting an integral garment on a
conventional two bed as well as on a four-needle bed V-bed flat machine was revealed in the
Patent GB 2228750A by Shima Seiki. The object of this patent is to produce a fashionshaped garment in which the sleeves and body are integrally knitted together and do not
require any seaming operations [17]. Furthermore, a method of tubular knitting an integral
garment on a conventional two needle bed V-bed flat knitting machine was revealed in the
Patent GB 2183264 B of J. M. Picaza Azpiroz (also the Spanish Patent No. 549230 under the
same name) [18]. In this method, the knitting sequence comprises a first stage of
simultaneously knitting the sleeves and the first part of the body up to the armholes, a second
stage of linking the sleeves to the first part of the body already knitted, and a third stage of
knitting the second part of the body until the garment is completed. Prior to the first phase, a
tubular rib broader with a start in perfect selvage and a two needle bed structure is produced
at the beginning of the sleeves and in the first part of the body. This method allows the
knitting of the garment complete and assembled in a single operation without seams between
the components, a feature which brings with it not only the advantage of saving the cutting
operations of knitted cloths, but also that of eliminating the seaming operations during the
course of knitted garment production. At the 11th International Exhibition of Textile
Machinery (ITMA) in Hanover in 1991 seen the employment of the said method on a Zamark
V-bed flat machine to knit an integrally shaped sweater [19].
In 1993, the development of three-dimensional knitted fabric on V-bed flat knitting machines
for various degrees of three-dimensional fabrics was discussed by Yu and Soong. The
method allowed the production of relief knitted patterns by cardigan stitches, tubes and
boxes, to an entirely seamless sweater [20].
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In fact, knitting technology has not limited itself only to producing seamless sweater. In
1975, a technology for the production of seamless and conventional knitted trousers from
single-jersey was reported by Bezemek [21]. In 1978, the manufacturing of a pair of onepiece seamless briefs on circular hosiery machine was detailed in the Patent BP 1 504 288 by
Ridley, Spriggs & Johnson Limited. The briefs were knitted in the form of a seamless body
tudy with front and back panels shaped by dimensional course wise and/or wale-wise
variations. The back panel is longer wale-wise, and thus fuller, than the front panel, and the
two panels were constructed by an intermediate shaped crotch which may be closed either by
rotary knitting or after pressing off. Wale-wise extending selvages with turned welts defined
the leg openings [22]. In 1979, the success of producing seamless knitted gloves by automatic
knitting machines was reported [23]. In the same year, an invention of a seamless surgical
stocking which was a knee-length, seamless stocking that intermittently applying a pulsating
pressure to the leg to stimulate blood flow and inhibit thrombosis was revealed in the Patent
BP 1 576 026. The stocking included a pocket containing an inflatable tube that was
connected to a pump for periodically expanding the tube [24]. Later in 1981, another
invention of seamless briefs was revealed in the Patent BP 1 604 558 by E. Taklia. The briefs
were made from a seamless, tubular fabric with an integrally formed extension for the crotch.
The latter was heat shaped to provide an outwardly directed bulge that reduced pressure upon
the genitalia. In the same year, an invention of a pant type apparel such as shorts, trouser, or
the like, with a permanent seamless crotch-inner leg panel that stretched across the crotch
area between inner leg areas of the apparel was revealed in the Patent US 4 261 060 by B. A.
Zawacki [25]. Two years later, an invention of a pants like garment designed to conform to
the contours of the body in the trunk and upper legs areas was revealed in the Patent US 4
371 989 by B. Polsky. The garment was comprised of a front piece with the inside edges of
the legs formed into an inverted V, a rear piece with the inside edges of the legs forming an
inverted V, and a diamond-shaped crotch piece joined to the points of the V's so that the
pieces cooperated to pull the piece away from the crotch when one leg of the wearer pulled
on the garment [26]. More recently in 1995, seamless waterproof socks from DuPont was
described. Both the inner and outer layers of this over-the-calf SealSkinz socks are uniquely
seamless to ensure comfort and help prevent blisters [27]. Working toward the goal of
complete apparel manufacturing technology to reduce post-knitting time and costs while
improving quality, Shima Seiki Manufacturing Limited has been successful in manufacturing
light weight apparel that is seamless and comfortable by its WholeGarment technology [28,
29]. The SWG-V and SWG-X WholeGarment machines, for instance, are capable of knitting
a wide range of one piece sweaters, tops and bottoms that allow continuous designs that wrap
around the garment as well as totally reversible designs [30]. Today, the company offers a
range of sophisticated automatic knitting machines that knits literally all types and styles of
seamless gloves and socks as well as fully fashioned garments [31, 32].
Among the many seamless clothing items produced and manufacturing by knitting
technology, hosiery items with particular reference to pantyhose have been by far the most
significant and substantial in attracting research and development. It has long been
recognised as desirable to be capable of providing a pair of pantyhose which is knitted in
one-piece and seamless to eliminate the existence of seams that would detract from the
appearance of the pantyhose, the additional manufacturing steps would also increase
production cost. Yet, a large number of one-piece pantyhose presently produced are of a type
which are formed by sewing two separately knitted halves together with or without a gusset
in the crotch area [33]. The seam of the pantyhose without a gusset was much subject to
tensions and laddering whereas the production of the one without was expensive. Moreover,
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there had not been any semiautomatic machines that were able to assemble the gusset [34].
Past efforts had failed in producing a one-piece seamless pantyhose that would simplify the
construction process while retaining an overall satisfactory appearance. For example, in an
effort to eliminate the seam, the prior art pantyhose of U.S. Patent 3,673,821 and Re 27,886
had not been found to possess the overall shape and size characteristics desirable by the
wearer. Although some contour was provided to the body of these prior art pantyhose by
using partial courses or heel pouches, the resulting terminated yarn ends or weakened gore
lines tended to detract from the overall appearance of the pantyhose. It also introduced an
undesired feature a seamless one-piece hose was expected to eliminate. Similarly, obvious
gore lines were found in U.S. Patent 3,748,870 and 3,802,229 as a result of the gussets
formed by a widening and narrowing process, though the shape was improved.
Another area of concern had been with the waist opening and the waistband of the pantyhose.
Sewn-on waistbands had added to the total cost of the garment due to the additional sewing
step that was required during production. On the other hand, the terminated yarn ends of the
introduced expansion yarn to a specified area of the pantyhose detracted from the appearance
of the pantyhose albeit some may be hidden at an added expense by rolling and sewing.
Although the waistband formed by reciprocal knitting as in U.S. Patent 3,748,870 might had
eliminated terminated yarn ends, the internally knitted waistbands in the form of a narrow
elongated slot with a wale-wise orientation had two obvious drawbacks. First, when a large
waist opening was required by a greater extension of the elongated slot into the area of the
side panels, a decrease in the rise of the garment along the hips to prevent the opening from
being properly located at the waist of the wearer would be resulted. An addition of knitting
courses might introduce bagginess at the crotch and the front and rear panels of the body
portion. Second, the elastic characteristics of the knitted band were limited since the
expansion of it is limited to the wale-wise direction [35].
Since the introduction of automatically closed toes on the knitting machine in 1967 and the
first patent for automatic production of one-piece pantyhose in 1968, the search to perfect the
concept of "from machine to madam" has been an on-going development [36]. In October
1973 at the 15th Annual Congress of the International Federation of Knitting Technologists
(IFKT) in Milan, a panorama of the methods used up to that point in time to produce the onepiece pantyhose was given by Ettore Negri, during which seven methods were deliberated.
Later in 1977, further account for some of the developments of the one-piece pantyhose was
listed [37]. This included an Italian Patent Sangiacomo No. 959.420, an American Patent
application serial No. 488.585 Janda, the Lonati's 'Monopanty', and another Italian Patent
Matec No. 9556 A14.
Today, with the rapid development of advanced knitting technology, the production of a onepiece pantyhose with the elasticated waistband without any seams has been made possible.
For example, the U.S. Patent 3,992,903 is able to provide a one-piece, seamless knitted
garment having a body portion with a shape that substantially conforms with the shape of the
wearer. It has a waist opening defined by an integrally knitted waistband with its shape and
location not altering the overall conformation of the pantyhose to the shape of the wearer and
the waistband includes improved expansion characteristics. The pantyhose can be quickly
and simply produced and is attractive in appearance [38].
Every other year, the International Hosiery Exhibition (IHE) [39-41] provides a showcase of
the most advanced up-to-the-minute technologies in hosiery design and production [42].
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4.
MOULDING
Garment production technology as well as the creation of fashion today is largely a
continuation development from the industrial revolution of the latter part of the nineteenth
century, characterised by intricate and often cumbersome mechanical machinery. Due to the
inherent disadvantages in these conventional garment fabrication and assembly procedures,
attempts have been made in the past to form garments by moulding processes. To this end,
moulded garments would be more economical to produce than garments produced by
traditional manufacturing techniques since the number of labour intensive steps employed in
the latter would be reduced. Consistency of sizing in the moulded garments would be far
superior to traditionally manufactured garments since size variations in the garment prior to
moulding would be eliminated. Moulded garments required far fewer seams and darts than
traditionally manufactured garments. This reduces the problem of opened and puckered
seams, and greatly improves the garment's wearing comfort and durability, particularly after
extended wear and cleaning. In addition, moulded garment manufacture can provide
improved appearance in the final product, particularly with regular patterned fabrics such as
plaids and stripes, while at the same time reducing costs by minimising both labour and the
amount of material required to produce a finished product.
Patents and technical literature provide a good track of a record of various inventive
endeavours of deploying moulding and forming technologies for producing garments in parts
or in full. The record suggested moulding and forming date back to as early as 1887. Until
cellulose acetate became available, most moulding work were done on cloth that contained
thermosetting material to impart moulding characteristics. In 1949, the U.S. Patent 2,460,674
(thereafter called Bihaly patent) assigned to Trubenised Company, London revealed the
invention of moulding bra cups that utilised the thermoplasticity of the cellulose acetate in
combination with non-thermoplastic yarn. The Trubenised Company was the first company to
develop a successful fused collar for men's shirts, and the bra patent appeared to be a byproduct of this earlier work. Meanwhile, spearheaded by Howard Shearer in the U.S., the
American Viscose Company was working on moulding too. The U.S. Patent 2,616,084 of
Shearer in 1952 have many similarities to the Bihaly one, but involved a higher speed, more
automatic process for forming the bra cups. A few years later in 1956, another U.S. Patent
2,760,198 of Poole and Clark used a more sophisticated moulding device for bra moulding.
David Clark, the co-patentee of the patent, is the founder of the David Clark Company in
Worcester that manufactured space suits for the astronauts. Moulding has been an important
technology in some of the components for space suits indeed. In 1963, the U.S. Patent
3,070,870 was one of the first moulded bra patents that incorporated a high-style lace fabric
for both decoration and function. It is interesting to note that some of the earlier work that
was done on this development used an electric light bulb for moulding some of the prototype
samples.
Of particular relevance to this study was those invention that employed moulding and
forming to create one-piece garments either seamless or of minimal seams. In 1972, the
German Patent 2152332 issued to Teijin Limited, Japan disclosed a process of moulding
ladies' dresses of minimal seams. The patent was among the first to provide an in-depth
approach to making knitted outerwear by moulding. Unfortunately, de-emphasise of
polyester knit fabrics had prevented the widespread acceptance of moulded garments. The
actual drawings of the said German Patent 2152332 illustrate from step one to three of the
dress moulding process [43]. Two years later, such similar development was issued by the
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U.S. Patent 3,819,638. During these two years, articles have appeared in several trade
publications describing a similar process [44]. Later in 1979, the U.S. Patent 4,145,388
revealed a method of electrostatic deposition of fibres and dyes on a male mould for
manufacturing garments. This invention comprised a method of manufacturing garments
using a male mould in a desired garment configuration. Layers of fibres were then
electrostatically deposited over the mould to define the garment. Some of the fibres that
comprised pre-selected layers were electrostatically oriented in accordance with the elasticity
requirements of particular areas of the garment. Colorants could be applied electrostatically
to the garment too, if so wished. After final curing to set the colour pattern and fibres, the
garment was removed from the mould for finishing. By this method, garments could be
fabricated on demand from minimum inventory, thus eliminating many of the time
consuming and costly procedures of the convention of textile and garment production. It is
ironical that much of the technology that was developed over the years for moulding of
garments appears to have been used in industrial products rather than in clothing. Examples
of this are moulded surgical face masks, battery separators, respirators, tractor seats and
interior trim parts for the automotive industry.
More recently, the year of 1974 was highlighted by the "First International Symposium on
Garment Moulding Technology" held in Atlanta in October 15-16. Despite the great deal of
enthusiasm after the conference on the moulding of garment, the severe depression in the
knitted apparel fabric business discouraged the continuation and the initiation of more work
in the garment industry. Furthermore, the increased importation of garments from the lower
labour cost countries discouraged investment in advanced technology by many major
garment enterprises. One of the major limitations of employing moulding technology towards
fashion creations has been its high cost of making the moulds to entertain the ever-changing
styles in fashion. Computer-aided design systems that can change the moulds easily may help
cope with the frequency of style changes. In this connection, the U.K. Patent 2,132,383
issued to Gerber Scientific titled Computer Generated Mould for Contoured Garment Piece
Formation has provided impetus to the commercialisation of moulded fashion-led articles.
Meanwhile, another process utilising proven heat moulding and ultrasonic bonding
techniques developed by Symagery Productions, Inc. was reported. By utilising CAD
(computer-aided design), CAM (computer-aided manufacture) and CIM (computer-integrated
manufacture), the said technologies could be modified and combined to be amenable to a
continuously operating garment manufacturing line using automation and supervisory
computer control methodologies for a highly efficient, cost effective and flexible means of
garment production [45]. Symagery anticipated that such a system would be able to produce
garments of higher quality and at lower cost than those made by conventional cut-and-sew
methods. Also reported was an approach of utilising CAD to facilitate three dimensional
product design including garment and shoes by Computer Design Inc., or Grand Rapids,
Michigan [46].
In the early 1980s, several patents were issued that seemed rather promising. Between 1980
and 1981, Fritz Krowatschek [47-50] published a few papers summarised methods of
moulding garment parts. He noted that seamless moulding of flat and tubular textile fabrics
by means of flat or curve dorms is a realistic alternative to the clothing techniques used at
that time. Other methods of producing garments with fewer seams that included garment
production directly from raw materials, from yarns by three-dimensional knitting, and from
flat textiles by seamless moulding were also mentioned. In 1984, U.S. Patent 4,459,704
disclosed a method of forming cloth into three-dimensional shapes and to produce garments.
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In this method, garments and other cloth items were formed into their predetermined threedimensional shapes. Unfinished cloth was used to construct a shell which was then
completely finished while maintained in the shape of the final product on the mould. The
invention was also directed to the products obtained from the novel process and to the onepiece pattern used in the manufacture of pant garments in accord with the process of this
invention. The invention was said to be superior to various prior art processes of the U.S.
Patents 3,655,858; 3,763,499; 3,819,638; 3,892,342; 4,103,363 and 4,171,076. These prior art
processes were directed primarily to moulding or forming knitted fabrics, and they all
suffered from the disadvantages that the shell of the cloth made before moulding did not
confirm to the general shape of the final moulded article, finished fabrics that had already
been tentered in the flat were used in the moulding process, and the garment was not moulded
under uniform tension and the finished garment therefore includes variations in the density of
the fabric and an irregularity in sizing. Furthermore, these prior moulding techniques had
generally failed to produce garments which retained their moulded shape, particularly after
extended wear and cleaning. Because these prior art processes were directed to moulding
finished cloth which had already been subjected to dimensional setting treatments while in
the flat, the moulding process was said not to have provided either a precise sizing of the
finished garment or satisfactory stretch and comfort characteristics [51].
Further to the Symposium in 1974, another symposium titled Forming and Molding of Fibers
and Polymers was held in Atlanta in 1985. At the time, it was believed that the future of
moulding technology would continue to develop as an important technology for the textile
and the related industries. The parallel development of technology from the polymer driven
industries such as fibres, plastics and paper as well as that of CAD systems would play an
important role in the growth of moulding and forming.
5.
CONCLUSION
This study has been carried out to investigate past and present techniques enabling creation of
seamless objects and clothing for generating original knowledge of seamless fashion creation
contributing to the creative and technological aspects of fashion design. Practical contributions
of the study are to improve garment appearance, enhance imagery continuation, eliminate
imagery matching problem, reduce processing and handling in garment production, save
material cost and add new dimensions in fashion creation and aesthetics. Fifteen techniques and
processes were identified to be possible toward these ends. It was realised that the techniques of
knitting and moulding are two of the most advanced and developed in this regard, and
envisaged to be tremendous potential for subsequent seamless fashion creation.
REFERENCES
1.
For example, see Krowatschek, F., November (1981), Seamless moulding of garment
parts, Melliand Textilberichte International (English Edition), 10, pp. 1144-1147.
2.
Ng, F.M.C. and Kho, W.Y.W. (1998), Spunlaced non-woven fabric technology and its
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36-45.
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3.
J.C. Hurd, P.M. Findlay and E. Start (1970), Weft Knitted Fabrics and Garments
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Institute, pp. 131-145.
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Chapman, S.D. (1972), Genesis of the British Hosiery Industry 1600-1750. Textile
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Ponting, K.G. (1982), In Search of William Lee. Knitting International, 89(December):
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Harte, N. (1989), William Lee and the Invention of the Knitting Frame. Knitting
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Kinder, K. (1989), Four Hundred Years of Domestic Machine Knitting. Knitting
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See Felkin, W. (1967), History of the Machine-wrought Hosiery and Lace
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Felkin gives a good account of the evidence of various knitted items in the fifteenth and
sixteenth centuries, including protective laws to support this.
9.
Brackenbury, T. (1989), Fashion History of Knitting. Knitting International, 96(1142,
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10.
1967, The Structure of Knitted Fabrics, London: IWS.
11.
Sommer, E. and M. Sommer (1977), A New Look at Knitting: an easier and more
creative approach, New York: Crown Publishers, Inc., p. 169.
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Soft sculpture.
13.
Sommer, E. and M. Sommer (1977), A New Look at Knitting: an easier and more
creative approach, New York, Crown Publishers, Inc., p. 161.
14,
Zimmermann, E. (1986), Knitting a Seamless Sweater: it's easy with circular needles.
Threads, 7(October): pp. 47-49.
15.
Tudor, A. (1988), The Oddball Sweater. Threads, 17(June/July): pp. 34-37.
16.
February (1988), samples of hand knitted seamless sweater by the author.
17.
Spencer, D.J. (1991 June), Shima Seiki Patent: Knitting Integral Fashion-Shaped
Garments On a Four Needle-Bed Automatic Flat. Knitting International, pp. 22-25.
18.
Spencer, D.J. (1992 January), Patent Describes Method for Knitting Integral Fashion
Shaped Tubular Garments on Conventional V-Bed Flat Machine. Knitting
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19.
Picaza-Azpiroz (1993), J.M., Process for Knitting a Seamless Garment on Flat Knitting
Machines, Spain.
20.
Yu, P.C. and S.S. Soong (1993), Discussion on the Development of 3-D Knitted Fabric
on V-bed Flat Knitting Machines. Journal of the China Textile Institute, 3(6): pp. 3237.
21.
Bezemek, V. (1975), Development of a Technology for the Production of Seamless and
Conventional Knitted Trousers from Single-jersey. Melliand Textilberichte
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22.
Johnson, M.R. (1978), Manufacture of One-Piece Seamless Briefs on Circular Hosiery
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23.
1979, Automatic Machines for the Production of Seamless Gloves. Maglieria, 61(4): pp.
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24.
1980, Alba-Waldensian, Surgical Stocking, Alba Waldensian: USA.
25.
1981, Zawacki, B.A., Pantlike Apparel Having Seamless Crotch-Inner Panel, USA.
26.
1983, Polsky, B., Seamless Crotch, USA.
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Dockery, A. (1996), Automation Sets the Pace at IHE. America's Textiles International,
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Gross, D. (1996), Complete Garment Technology Featured at KAE International.
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Nakashima, T. and M. Karasuno (1996), Value-Added Knitwear: differentiating
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31.
Notable developments in the history of the company include the first automated glove
knitting machine in 1962, first fully automated collar knitting machine in 1967, mass
production of fully automated seamless glove knitting machines in 1970, apparel CAD
PGM-2 design system in 1988, Shimatronic flat bed knitting machines in 1989,
SuperMicro SDS computer aided design system in 1991, Total Knitting System in
1993, and innovative SPL102CS knitting machine combining warp knitting with flat
bed knitting technology in 1994
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Shima Seiki, in ITT Trade Literature: Shima Seiki. nd, Shima Seiki Manufacturing
Limited. P. 30.
33.
Janda, R.M. and K.C. Williams (1996), Seamless Garment Including Method of and
Machine for Knitting the Same, Rockwell International: USA.
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34.
Negri, E. (1977), New Methods for Producing Pantyhose. Knitting Times, 46(11, 14
March): pp. 56-60.
35.
Janda, R.M. and K.C. (1996), Williams, Seamless Garment Including Method of and
Machine for Knitting the Same, Rockwell International: USA.
36.
Goadby, D.R. (1980), Conti-Panty: a new method of producing one-piece pantyhose.
Knitting International, 87(October): p. 54.
37.
Negri, E. (1977), New Methods for Producing Pantyhose. Knitting Times, 46(11, 14
March): pp. 56-60.
38.
Janda, R.M. and K.C. Williams (1996), Seamless Garment Including Method of and
Machine for Knitting the Same, Rockwell International: USA.
39.
For example, see Millington, J. (1996), IHE: 'Year of the Toe'. African Textiles,
April/May): 13+.
40.
For example, see Stovhase, R. (1994), The IHE 1994 International Hosiery Exposition
in Charlotte, USA. Knitting Technique, 16(6): pp. 381-384.
41.
See Davidson, W.A.B. and J.T. Millington (1992), IHE 1992 Is Unqualified Success.
America's Textiles International, 21(8, August): K/A2-K/A10.
42.
Companies that have been active in IHE include Barco, BASF, Bentley, Conti
Florentia, Cytec, Fadis, Grandis, Metec, Lonati, Sangiacomo, Uniplet…to name but a
few.
43.
Step One: tubular double knit fabric over the form – the end of the fabric is drawn past
the bottom of the form far enough to provide a correct hem allowance. Steps Two &
Three: clamping the fabric at the shoulders and neck along the shoulder join line, and at
the bottom hem line. Patterned fabrics apparently must be drawn exactly vertical,
without twisting. They must also be stretched uniformly in length and circumferential
directions to minimise erratic pattern distortions and irregular shapes of patterns.
44.
For example, see Women's Wear Daily, Teijin 'Heat Sets' Dresses, December 1972, in
which it described the development as "a simple process for making dresses
commercially by heat-setting knit fabrics on a metal form", also see Japan Textile
News, New Heat-Setting Technique for Perfect-Fit Ready-Made Wear, March 1973 in
which it said "Teijin Limited has recently developed a heat-setting technique using
three-dimensional dress forms", and Daily News Record, Set Japanese New-Technique
Apparel Firm, April 24, 1974 in which it said "Three Japanese companies have formed
a joint venture company to manufacture and wholesale apparel made by a new heat-set
technology…Initially the new company will manufacture women's dresses using knitted
fabrics, but later will go into children's and men's wear".
45.
Stern, B. and C. Huckaba. (1985), An Update on Molding in the Textile-Apparel
Industry. in Forming and Molding of Fibers and Polymers, Atlanta, Georgia 30043, pp.
22-39.
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46.
Van Fossen, R.W. (1985), CAD System for Pattern and Mold Design. in Forming and
Molding of Fibers and Polymers, Atlanta, Georgia 30043, pp. 220-226.
47.
Krowatschek, F. (1979), Processes for Seamless Moulding of Textiles into Articles of
Clothing. Bekleidung und Wasche, 31(16): pp. 1059-1061.
48.
Krowatschek, F. (1979), Processes for Seamless Transformation of Textile Apparel.
Bekleidung + Waesche, 31(16, August): pp. 1059-1061.
49.
Krowatschek, F. (1980), Possibilities of Moulding Garment Parts, Research Results. in
19th Internationale Chemiefasertagung, Dornbirn.
50.
Krowatschek, F. (1981), Seamless Moulding of Garment Parts. Melliand Textilberichte
International (English Edition), 10, November): pp. 1144-1147.
51.
See U.S. Patent 4,459,704.
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