1. business and industrial
2. energy
3. oil

Late 2006
Double Issue
Meet Me In St. Louis!
In 1944 Judy Garland starred in the classic movie musical, “Meet Me In St.
Louis”. Set in 1903, it was a classic teen-age love story, but also centered around
the St. Louis World’s Fair (held in 1904). Well known songs from the movie
include “Meet Me In St. Louis, Louis”, “The Trolly Song” and “Have Yourself a
Merry Little Christmas”, which was written for the movie.
We will dance the hoochie coochie.
While we won’t have the benefit of the World’s Fair, nor will we be serenaded
I will be your tootsie wootsie
by the marvelous voice of Judy Garland, we will have a great time at the 2007
If you will meet me in St. Louis, Louis. Soap Guild Annual Conference in St. Louis!
Meet me at the fair.
The Conference will start on Thursday, May 3rd, with registration starting on
Lyics by Kerry Mills and Andrew B. Sterling (1904)
the
Wednesday night before. A briefing on the proposed Certification Program
from the musical “Meet Me In St. Louis”
will be held on in the evening after
registration.
Speakers and presentations will run all through Thursday, Friday and
Saturday. With classes scheduled to cover many aspects of soap making,
business management, marketing, labeling and other subjects, every attendee will go home with plenty of information to help expand his or her
soapmaking activities.
In addition to regularly scehduled classes and seminars, there are also
several special events, including the Annual Membership Meeting (over
Friday lunch), a Networking Cocktail Hour hosted by Wholesale Supplies
Plus, the Annual Awards Dinner on Saturday night ... and more!
In response to popular requests, slightly longer breaks will allow for
plenty of time to browse the vendor tables and chat with fellow soap makers. Many friendships have been made and maintained at the Soap Guild
conferences, and this year will be no different!
The hotel is very nice, with lots of nearby amenities. Travel to St. Louis,
since it is centrally located, is quite easy. See you there!
Meet me in St. Louis, Louis.
Meet me at the fair.
Don’t tell me the lights are shining
Any place but there.
May 3-5, 2007
For more information on the 2007 conference, see page 6 inside!
A Brief Introduction to Chemistry . . 1
From the President . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
European Union Allergen List . . . . . 3
Welcome New Members . . . . . . . . . . 4
Soapers Showcase Winners . . . . . . . . 4
2006 Conference Album . . . . . . . . . . 4
2007 Conference Information . . . 5 - 6
HSMG Travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
In this issue
Future Conference Locations . . . . . . 9
Industry News . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Members In The Media . . . . . . . . . . 10
Certification Program . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Member Benefit Insurance . . . . . . . 12
Promoting Handcrafted Soap . . . . . 14
Adulterated, Misbranded
& Interstate Commerce . . . . . . . . . . 15
From the Inside of the Bubble . . . . . 16
Use of the Term “Organic” . . . . . . . 17
Unsaponifiables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Making Crock Pot Hot Process . . . 24
2006 Annual Meeting . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Member Benefits . . . inside back cover
Benefactor Members . . . . . . back cover
S U P P L I E S
A Brief Introduction to Chemistry
by Kevin M. Dunn
Chemistry is central to the craft of soapmaking. A
thorough understanding of soap chemistry must begin
with the properties of oil and water. Once these have
been mastered we can begin to understand acids and
bases. This article will introduce the chemistry of oil,
water, acids, and bases. A later installment will elaborate
on the chemistry of fats and soaps.
Oil and Water
Oil and water don’t mix. Were it not for this fundamental truth there would be no need for soap in the
first place and so a thorough understanding of oil and
water is the beginning of wisdom for the soapmaker.
The interaction between oil and water is dominated
by the mutual attraction of opposite electrical charges
and the repulsion of like charges. Indeed, all chemical
interactions arise from the elaborate dance of negative
electrons around positive atomic nuclei. When electrons
flit from one nucleus to another they bind the nuclei
together, since each nucleus is attracted to the shared
electrons. But to understand oil and water we need not
grapple with the details of sub-atomic structure. It will
be enough to look at the distribution of electrical charge
in molecules of oil and water and to understand the way
that these charges interact.
Molecules of oil and water are made up of just three
kinds of atoms: carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen. Carbon is
the defining constituent of organic molecules, of which
oils, fats, soaps, and proteins are examples. We need to
understand just two things about carbon. First, a carbon
atom may bond to as many as four other atoms. Second,
carbon and hydrogen atoms share equally the electrical charge of the electrons which bind the molecule
together. Whenever carbon is bonded to hydrogen, the
electrical charge is uniformly distributed across the CH
bond. We say that the CH bond is non-polar, that is,
neither atom is more negative or positive than the other.
If carbon is relatively generous with its electrons, oxygen
is stingy.
As with carbon we need to understand two things
about oxygen. First, it can bond with as many as two
other atoms. Second, though it shares electrons with
carbon and hydrogen, it does so unequally. The electrons
which make up the bond spend more time near the oxygen nucleus and less time near the carbon or hydrogen
nuclei.
Since the electrons are negative and the nuclei positive, the oxygen atom holds a net negative electrical
charge and the carbon or hydrogen atoms a net positive
charge. We describe this bond as polar, the oxygen end
of the bond being negative and the other end positive.
The most important such bond, from the standpoint of
soap chemistry, is the OH bond.
As with carbon and oxygen, we need to know two
things about the hydrogen atom. It may bond to only
one other atom. When it is bonded to carbon it shares
the electrons equally in a non-polar bond; when it is
bonded to oxygen the bond is polar, with a negative
charge on the oxygen atom and a positive charge on the
hydrogen.
While the non-polar CH bond will largely determine the chemistry of oil, the polar OH bond will
dominate the chemistry of water.
Chemistry - con’t on page 18
Kevin Dunn is the Elliott Professor of Chemistry at Hampden-Sydney
College, where he teaches the course which inspired his book, Caveman
Chemistry. He holds a BS degree from the University of Chicago and a
PhD from the University of Texas at Austin. The material for this article
is excerpted from his upcoming new book, Scientific Soapmaking. Kevin is
a member of the Handcrafted Soap Makers Guild and serves on both the
Advisory Council and the Certification Committee. He lives in central
Virginia with his wife and several cats.
1
Contact Us
Handcrafted Soap
Makers Guild, Inc.
3416 Primm Lane.
Birmingham, AL 35216
Toll Free:(866) 900-SOAP
(866) 900-7627
Phone: (205) 823-5517
Fax: (205) 823-2760
E-mail: [email protected]
Board of Directors:
Marie Gale, President
[email protected]
Jackie Thompson, Vice-President
[email protected]
LaShonda Tyree, Treasurer
[email protected]
Robert Kishtok, Secretary
[email protected]
Judy Green, Member
[email protected]
Leigh O’Donnell, Member
[email protected]
Rosann Drielsma, Member
[email protected]
Public Website
www.soapguild.org
Member Forum
www.soapguild.org/forum
Members Only Website
www.soapguild.org/login.php
Publication Info
The Handcrafted SoapMaker is a
publication of the Handcrafted Soap Makers Guild, Inc. published for the HSMG
membership.
Advertising space is available for
members and non-members to purchase.
Contact [email protected] for more
information.
Grateful acknowledgement is made to
the members and associates who contributed articles, information and pictures for this
issue. Reproduction of any article, without
prior permission, is prohibited.
From the President
So far I have served on the Board of Directors for a year and as President
for 2 ½ years. Reviewing all that time, I have to say that the last 8 months
has been the period of the greatest change and expansion for the HSMG.
The 2006 Conference in Portland in May was, really, the best conference
yet. “Fantabulous” comes to mind, but I don’t think that’s actually a word.
One thing that stuck with me from the Portland Conference was the terrific
Soapers Showcase. Even though I’ve been making handcrafted soap for 9
years and participating with various groups of soapmakers, I am always awed
and amazed by the variety of spectacular soaps we all make. Soap, in its essence, is a simple chemical formula. However, creative soap makers can take
that simplicity and make it into wonderful products, each one different and
every one unique. I love it!
Every year at the Conference we have the Annual Membership Meeting. This is the time when members get their reports from the Board of
Directors, vote on proposals from the various committees and participate in
the election process. In 2006 the membership approved the formation of
a Certification Committee to draft a certification process for soap makers.
This is a major step forward for our industry!
Implementation of the member insurance benefit this fall was a major
decision for the Board of Directors and not undertaken lightly. It has been
well received, especially by those soapmakers who have built up their businesses to a point where typical liability insurance was available only at very
high annual premiums. All in all, it will help the handcrafted soap industry
- helping soap makers stay in business with the knowledge they and their
personal and business assets are protected.
Also this fall the website was updated. It was changed to incorporate
more information, make it easier to navigate and manage and also to implement the new insurance benefit. There were some other changes to the
member benefits as well, to go along with the insurance.
The next Annual Membership Meeting will be held in St. Louis during
the Conference. Not only will the membership be reviewing and approving
(or not) the Certification Program, but regular elections will be held.
This term will be my last as President, as I have hit the term limits as
set in our by-laws. A great deal of work has been done over the last 3 years
to create and maintain a stable Board of Directors and Presidency. It is
through member participation and responsibility that the Soap Guild has
come so far. I hope you, as a member, will participate in the nomination
and election process.
The 2007 Conference, to be held in St. Louis, is already planned to be
even better and bigger than 2006! Leigh O’Donnell, our Conference Chairman, has experience with two conferences already (one as a volunteer and
one as Chairperson). This will be the first time we have such an experienced
person supervising the conference ... I’m expecting GREAT things!
I’ll see you there!
Marie Gale
President, HSMG
P. S. With the many hours spent on negotiating and implementing the insurance benefit (and
2
The EU 26 Allergens List
& common Essential Oils
containing them
by Susan Emery
Not too long ago, the European Union passed labeling regulations that require the disclosure of any of 26 fragrance components that cause the vast majority of allergic reactions to perfumes and fragrances. This allows consumers to check a product label for any components to which they know they are sensitive.
Since the FDA could eventually adapt these same guidelines, it is a good idea to keep informed concering them.
As a student of medical (chemistry-based) aromatherapy, I was curious to see how the compounds would relate to
the essential oils they were found in.
Boy, was I surprised to learn how many essential oils contained these compounds. I was under the impression
that there were 26 allergens and only 26 essential oils that would correspond (for example clove bud = Eugenol). I
was wrong. There are hundreds, if not thousands of essential oils which contain these compounds.
For the sake of brevity, I have narrowed down the list of essential oils to fifty of the most popular. The allergens
are lettered from A to Z. After each essential oil, there is a list of letters corresponding to the allergens.
Here is an example, using Bergamot. Looking under the Essential Oils List, find Bergamot. The letters J,M,P,U
are listed to the right. To decipher, simply look up those letters on the allergens list to find out which allergens are
contained in this essential oil. In this example, Bergamot contains J. Citral, M. d-Limonene, P. Geraniol and U.
Linalool.
EU Allergen List
A. Anisyl alcohol
B. Amyl cinnamal
C. Amylcin namyl
alcohol
D. Benzyl alcohol
E. Benzyl benzoate
F. Benzyl cinnamate
G. Benzyl salicylate
H. Cinnamal
I. Cinnamyl alcohol
J. Citral
K. Citronellol
L. Coumarin
M. d-Limonene
N. Eugenol
O. Farnesol
P. Geraniol
Q. Hexyl cinnam-aldehyde
R. Hydroxy-citronellal
S. Hydroxy-methylpentyl-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde
T. Isoeugenol
U. Linalool
V. Methylheptin carbonate
W. Oak moss extract
X. Treemoss extract
Y. 2-(4-tert-Butylbenzyl) propionaldehyde
Z. 3-Methyl-4-(2,6,6-trim ethyl2cyclohexen-1-yl)-3-buten-2one
50 Common Essential Oils
Angelica (Angelica archangelica)
Aniseed (Pimpinella anisum)
Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
K,N,U
Bergamot (Citrus bergamia) J,M,P,U
Black Pepper (Piper nigrum)
U
Bois de Rose (Aniba rosaeodora) U,P
Cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum)U
Cedarwood (Cedrus Atlantica)
Chamomile:
German (Matricaria chamomila)O
Roman (Athemis nobilis)
O
Cinnamon (Cinnamomum
zeylenicum)
E,N,P,T,U
Citronella (Cymbopogon nardus)K,P,T
Clary-Sage (Salvia sclarea)
K,P,U
Clove (Eugenia caryophyllata)
N
Cypress (Cupressus sempervirens)
Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus) U
Eucalyptus Radiata
P,U
Frankincense (Buswellia thurifera) O
Ginger (Zingiber officinale)
K,U
Grapefruit (Citrus paradisi) J,K,M
Helichrysum
(Helichrysum angustifolium) ,P,U
Jasmine ( Jasminum Officinale)
U
Juniper ( Juniperus Communis)
U
Lavender (Lavendula
Angustifolium, officinalis) P,U
Lemon (Citrus Limonum)
M,P,U
Lemongrass
(Cymbopogen citratus) J,K,P,U
Lime (Citrus aurantifolia)
M,U
Mandarin (Citrus Nobilis)
J,K,L,M,P,U
Marjoram (Origanum marjoram) U
Melissa (Melissa officinalis)K,N,O,P,U
Myrrh (Commiphora myrrha)
N
Neroli
(Citris bigaradia, aurantium) M,P,U
Niaouli (Melaleuca viridiflora)
U
Nutmeg (Myristica fragrans)N,P,T,U
Orange (Citrus sinensis)
M,P,U
Oregano (Origanum vulgare)
U
Patchouli (Pogostemon patchouli)
Peppermint (Mentha piperata)
Pettigraine (Citrus aurantium)J,M,P,U
Pine (Pinus sylvestris)
Ravensara (Ravensara aromatica) T
Rose Bulgar
(Rosa Damascena)
K,N,O,P,U
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)
Sage (Salvia officinalis)
U
Sandalwood (Santalum album)
Spearmint (Mentha spicata)
O,U
Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia)
Thyme, Red (Thymus vulgaris) J,P,U
Thyme Linalol
P,U
Ylang-ylang
3
Welcome
New Members!
Arnaud Adrian
Adrian America Inc
Cynthia Aiazzi
Sagebrush Soap Factory
Majeda Al Omran
Zahrati
Robin Albertson
And the Winners are ...
Over 50 members brought
or sent soaps for the Soapers
Showcase. All attendees
received ballots in their registration packs and submitted their
votes. There were five categories
and “Best of Show”.
Lori Nova
The Nova Studio
Best CP / HP Soap
AND Best of Show
Cold Creek Trading LLC
Randi Aldridge
Cloud Nine Candle and Bath Co.
Deanne Alexander
Sweet Thyme Soaps Inc.
Nicole & Sammy Alleyne
Nic & Sammy’s Heavenly Scents
Rhonda Anderson
Hydriads soaps
Howard Apel
JoAnne Somers
DirtyFace Soap Co.
Best Melt & Pour Soap
Carrie Thompson
RainDance Soaps
Best Use of FragranceSoap
Jessica Newens
Tom Boy Soaps
Best Packaging
AAA Chemicals
Jan Owen
The Irish Lass’ Soap
Most Original
Shannon Arch
“GloryBee Foods, Inc.”
Diana R. Ard
Forever After Bath & Body
Congratulations
Winners!!
Karen Avery
Seattle Rain Fresh
Anandamayi Baker
Palomar Mountain Soap Company
Cindy Bartholomew
Utopia Society LLC
Sharon Billey
A Special “THANK YOU!!”
to our 2006 conference sponsors
Shazbroek LLC
Debbie Bliss
Pure Bliss
Jessica Booth
The Lote Tree
Theresa Borys
Kreations from the Heart
Aimee Boyle
Virwanti International Corporation
Lorraine Brecka
Luxurious Lather Soap
Kimberly Brinkworth
Country Comforts LLC
Soapers Choice providing
oils, soapmaking ingredients
and MP Soaps
The Lebermuth Company
www.lebermuth.com
Essential oils, Fragrance oils
and botanicals
www.essentialwholesale.com
Cosmetic bases, ingredients,
packaging and private label
Marta Briseno
El Bano de Maria
Julie Broussard
The Horton Collection
Tayé Brown
Sankofa Soaps
Jennifer Brown
Honey Bee
Myla Brueske
Alpine Cottage Soaps
Dianne Butler
Gramma’s Little Stinkers LLC
4
www.glorybee.com
Ingredients, molds, supplies and other items for the handcrafted soapmaker.
Gaily Rebecca Soaps
www.SoapnSupplies.com
Willow Way
www.SoapEquipment.com
From Nature With Love
www.FromNatureWithLove.com
2006 Conference Album
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Catherine Failor talked
about her experiences
following her passions
and the changes it brought
to her businesses over
the years. It was very
inspiring!
Bob
LaShonda
Catherine, along with
Kevin Dunn and Casey
Kellar alaso autographed
their books for people.
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On Tuesday night there was an
Ice Cream social with a Sundae
Bar and Coffee Bar. It was very
nice to have a chance to sit doqn
and chat with friends for a while.
Quite a treat to have ice cream
with lots of toppings, too!
Irene Linauer’s
Gem Soap
Prizes &
Goodies
WOW!
So MANY prizes, goodies and other
gifts! Over 50 businesses donated
items for the goodie bags, raffles
and door prizes. And the Soap guild
gave out presents at ever meal!! The
business cardholder and min-tool box
have already come in very handy.
Soapers Showcase
Annual Meeting
Irene’s class
on making Gem
Rock Soaps was
amazing! She
can make geodes,
crystals andmineral
stones from soap
and they look
SO REAL!!
That’s Judy,
helping on the �
raffle prizes)
Whole
Networskale Supplies P
ing Cock
lu
tail Housr
The soaps in the Soapers
Showcase were just beautiful!
This picture shows only a few
of them - there were 2 full
tables, each 3 rows high.
It was difficult to vote on
the different categories
because they were all so great.
After the conference was over
the soaps were donated to a
local women’s shelter.
Good pe
ople,
good ea good music,
ts!
The Board of Directors
Usually meetings, especially
ones with 125 people attending,
tend to be pretty boring and
tedious. This one wasn’t
though - it went fast and
covered a lot of ground. The
reports were informative, the
elections went quickly and
decisions were voted on with
everyone having a chance
comment if they wanted to.
(from left) Linda, Cindy, LaShonda,
Judy, Marie, Leigh & Jackie
Dead sea
mud masks
The Mud Queen (Tammy
Doering of Dead Sea Bulk
Materials gave demons
and masks all during the
three days. Only at a Soap
Gathering will you see
people in the audience with
their faces covered in mud
... and loving every minute
of it!!
5
Welcome
New Members!
Ellen Cagnassola
SweetSoaps.com
Dorothy Cangialosi
Winter Caplanson
Sleepy Moon
Elizabeth Carnahan
Longcroft Soap Company
Registration
Conference registration includes the
cost of all seminars and classes, materials
and handouts, meals and breaks, special
events, really great goodie bags and various other gifts and prizes.
Non-Member
Early-bird special $390.00
Lori Carsgo
Stateline Soapworks LLC
Full Price
Soap Silly Bath & Body
Rebecca Chavez Bear
Sue Chmieleski
Lisa Chouinard
Feto Soap
Earth Dance Botanical BodyCare
Wednesday, May 2
Louise Cline
Heron Shores Enterprises
noon
Vendor set-up (noon)
4:00 pm
Registration
5:30 pm
Certification Program Q & A
Thursday May 3
Samantha Corwin
Saponi Soaps
Carolina Cossio
7:30 am
Registration & Continental Breakfast
8:30 am Welcome by President
Marcia Cunningham
Morning:
Keynote Speaker
Donna Maria Coles Johnson
Handmade Beauty Network
Traci-Liegh Curran
Growing your Business
Debbie May, Wholesale Supplies Plus
Rancho San Martin
Vicky Cranor
Mineral Creek Essentials
Gerty’s Soaps & Sundries
Earth Mama Savonnerie
& Aromatherapy
Jeanne Daigle
Eclectic Lady
Jasmine Dallion
Zharia’s Boutique
Pamela Alyse Davis
Lena Mae Soaps
Jennifer Davis
Healdsburg Soap Company
Barb DeLosSantos
Barbs Homemade soap
David and Terri Dillon
Rocky Mountain Bathworks
12:30 pm Plated Lunch
Hot Process Soap Making
Lori Nova, The Nova Studio
Evening:
(to be announced)
Special Thanks to
Conference Sponsors:
Snowdrift Farms
www.snowdriftfarms.com
Donna Dimick
Wholesale Supplies Plus
Valhalla Soap Company
Barbara Donnelly
Moonflower Essentials
6
Friday May 4
7:45 am Morning: 12:30
Afternoon:
Evening:
Continental Breakfast
Scenting Soap
Trina Wallace, Snowdrift Farms
Trade Shows
Susan Ryhanen
Calculating SAP Values
Linda Stevens, Upland Soap Factory
Soap Chemistry
Kevin Dunn, Chemist & Professor
Lunch and Annual Meeting
Direct Sales
Jena Thompson
Using Herbs
Joan Wysocki, HerbEase, Inc.
Networking Cocktail Hour
Wholesale Supplies Plus
Saturday May 5
Afternoon: Large Batch Soap Making
Linda Stevens, Upland Soap Factory
Sharon DiMichele
Rose Valley Naturals
$395.00
Schedule
Susan Church
Elizabeth Claridge
Brook Street Kitchen
Full Price
$430.00
www.soapguild.org
Ol’factory Soaps & Scents
Jamie Comstock
(ends Jan 31, 2007)
Register Today!
Bear Earth Products
Soap Farm
Member
Early-bird special $350.00
(ends Jan 31, 2007)
Johanna Castillo
Vanessa Cochran
Meals include continental breakfast
every day, lunch on Thursday and Friday
and dinner on Saturday. There will also
be food and drink provided at morning
and afternoon breaks.
7:45 am
Continental Breakfast
Morning:
Experts Panel (Soapmaking)
Kevin Dunn, Linda Stevens, , Lori Nova
Jena Thompson
Experts Panel (Business)
Debbie May, Trina Wallace, Susan Ryhanen
Donna Maria Coles Johnson,
Afternoon: Labels & Logos
Marie Gale, ForSoapmakers.com
Soapmaking at the Monastary
Sr. Cathleen Timberlake
Evening:
Gala Dinner & Awards
Sunday May 6
www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com
10:00 am
Open Board Meeting (optional)
2007 Annual Conference
May 3 - 5, 2007 - St. Louis, MO
The 2007 Annual Conference will be held in St.
Louis Missouri in May of 2007. Registration starts on
the evening of the 2nd of May (a Wednesday) and the
conference officially opens the next morning (Thursday,
May 3rd).
Classes, seminars, demonstrations and all activities
will go for three days (Thursday, Friday and Saturday)
closing with the Annual Awards dinner on Saturday
evening. An open Board Meeting will be held on Sunday, which members may attend if they choose.
Speakers
This year’s speakers are highly qualified, great speakers will be sharing valuable information for all soap
makers. Expect to be dazzled and enlightened in all
matter of subjects relative to making soap and running a
soap business!
Special Events
Networking Cocktail Hour On Friday evening, Debbie May of Wholesale Supplies Plus (www.
WholesaleSuppliesPlus.com) is hosting a Networking
Cocktail Hour (with food and goodies). The event she
threw at the 2006 Conference was terrific, so this one
should be great as well. It’s a very good opportunity to
chat with other soap makers and find out what’s new on
the horizon.
Experts Panel The Experts Panel last year was a
huge success. For 2007 it is being expanded to two sections: soapmaking and business matters.
Certification Program For those interested in
getting more information on the proposed Certification
Program, there will be a briefing on Tuesday evening
(May 2nd) during and after early Registration.
Annual Meeting
The Annual Membership
meeting will be held over lunch on Friday, May 4th.
Amongst other things, the Certification Program will be
up for approval and elections held for Board Members
and President for the next term. Non-members may attend, but can’t participate in votes or discussion.
Open Board Meeting On Sunday morning, May
6th, after the Conference there will be a Board Meet-
Beautiful Sheraton Chalet Westport - Site of the 2007 Conference
Hotel
The conference will be held in the Sheraton Westport Chalet located on the lake in Westport Village in
St. Louis. The facilities are very nice, with many of the
rooms having been recently updated. Expect great amenities and pillow-top beds in every room.
They have given the HSMG a special rate for the
conference of $99 per night (plus tax) for up to 4 people.
If you are looking to share a room, check the Member
Forum.
To get the special reservation rate, be sure to mention
the Soap Guild conference. They are also making the
rate available for 3 days before and after the event, so if
you have other business in St. Louis (or want to take a
mini-vacation) you can get the same good rates.
Transportation
Being near the center of the US, St. Louis is served
by most airlines, the train and is centrally located to
several interstates. To book flights, check the HSMG
Travel service at www.HSMGTravel.com. The hotel
provides a free shuttle to and from the airport.
Weather
According to the St. Louis Visitors Center, you can
expect the temperatures in early May to be 60 - 65 during the day, about 60% of the days in April and May are
sunny, with rain only 30% of the days.
So bring a warm jacket (for the evenings) and maybe
an umbrella. But remember you will be inside most of
the time, so comfortable clothes for an air-conditioned
7
Welcome
New Members!
Rachel DuBois
MoonDance Soaps & More
Diane Dudley
Love Lathers
Suzie Engen
Small Comforts
Deborah Erdmann
Sweet Fern Soap Ccompany
Rita Evenson
Therapeutic Massage
Sharone Farmer
Miss Tee
Lisa Farrell
MoonaLisa
MaryAnn Fenton
For the Luv of JAM
Sherry Fernandez
Aroma Creek Inc.
Misty Fields
Masterpiece Bath & Candle
David Fischer
White Mountain Soap & Bath
I LD
P
MA
U
Aroma for Souls
S OA
Dearly Yours
Mary Eigbrett
....
....... ..........
. ..
H
Dianne Early
..........................
.....
.... NDC R A FTE ...
A
.....
....... .........
....
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Grandma Elephant Creations
..........................
.....
...
....
Linda Durham
K ER S G
Turn your Vacations
into Donations
Book your personal and business
travel on our new travel website,
www.HSMGTravel.com!
Every time you do, Handcrafted
Soap Makers Guild will receive a
portion of the travel commissions.
You get the same low rates
offered by other travel websites
while helping to raise funds
for Handcrafted Soap Makers Guild.
It’s that simple!
Mary Forrest
Secret Garden Soap
Sarah Forward
of a simple nature
www.HSMGTravel.com
Sharon Foster
Ashbury Studio
LaDenia Freeman
Synergy Soaps
Nancy Galway
crazie otter
Dariel Garner
Maggie’s Pure Land Products Inc.
Sandi Garrett
GoodStuff Bath & Body
Michelle Gilbert
Sarva
Sharon Gillikin
Alaska Rain Barrel Soap Company
Diane Glass
Dream View Farm
Tina Glenn
Faerie Made
Mildred Gordon
LastingScent-Gifts
Suzanne Goss
The Washtub
8
The HSMG recently signed up with a special travel service geared toward assisting non-profit organizations help their members AND increase revenue. It works
just like the other on-line travel sites and even uses the same search engines. You
can search for flights, hotels, car rentals and cruises just like a typical on-line booking
website. Prices are competitive and the servicing is equivalent.
However, when you use www.HSMGTravel.com, a portion of those commissions
are paid to the HSMG to increase the services you receive. Check it out! Book your
reservations to the 2007 Conference or your next business trip or vacation and see
how it works for you ... and benefit the HSMG when you do so.
Future HSMG Conference Locations
Plan ahead!









 past conference
locations and years
Industry News
 Colgate-Palmolive has just completed the purchase of 84% of Tom’s of Maine for approximately $100
million. Tom’s of Maine is one of the pioneering producers of natural toothpaste, mouthwash, and deodorant, and is
currently claimed to be the number 1 Oral Care Brand in the Natural category.
According to their website (www.tomsofmaine.com), Tom and Kate Chappell started Tom’s of Maine in 1970 with
a $5,000 loan and one single product (Clearlake, a non-phosphate laundry detergent). Now they employ nearly 200
employees and have 90 oral and body care products found at more than 40,000 retail outlets across the country and
world.
The Chappells will retain a 16% interest and continue on as CEO and Vice President to ensure long-term sustainability. According to their announcement letter, the agreement they have worked out with Colgate-Palmolive
“succeeds in preserving the character, spirit, and values of our company as we grow.”
 L’Oreal has agreed to purchase the The Body Shop, a British retail chain of natural-based cosmetics, for
GB £652 million (approximately US $1.2 billion). The French cosmetics giant owns Lancome, Garnier and Maybelline as well as many others. L’Oreal reported US $2.35 billion profits from US $17.3 billion sales in 2005.
The Body Shop was started in 1976 as a home-based UK business and has grown to become an international chain
of over 2,000 shops in 53 countries. They have taken a stand against animal testing and promoted a number of
do-good issues (from Save The Whales to Domestic Violence issues). Anita Roddick, the founder of the British
firm, often spoke out against large multinationals, trumpeting fair trade over profits.
 In October 2006 L’Oreal announced their purchase of Sanoflore, one of the pioneers in the French organic
products market. Established in 1972 as a producer of organic herbs, Sanoflore started production of organic
essential oils in 1986 and have since grown to become a leading producer of organic oils and natural cosmetics.
9
Welcome
New Members!
Zonella Gould
Bosque Bath and Body
Joanne Gower
The Scent of Angels
Jo Graham
Garden Treasures
Carol Gray
David Grimes
Drew Street Soaps
Marigold Groot
Marigold Farms
Alicia Grosso
Annabella & Company
Creativity Collection
Tracey Hall
Roseberry LLC
Donna Hammock
Kenzie’s Klozet Bath and Body
Yvonne Hands
Hands Made
Bernadette Hansen
VI Paradise Bath and Beauty
KaiLai Harris
Lavender Valley
Kareemah Hasan-Rasheed
Charlotte Hayer
The Laughing Rabbit Soap Co.
Jennifer Healy
Northern Lights Candle Company
Gabrielle Hebert
Gabrielle Acres Farm
Stacy Herrod
Texas Charm Bath & Candle Co.
Monique Hodgkinson
Stable Solutions
Fran Holland
Hills O Erin
Linda Holt
Chrysalis Marketplace
Karen Hood
Mt Hood Soapworks
Cynthia Horsly
Under ThePines
Nancy Hurtgen
Claire Soaps LLC
Nancy Huynh
Huynh Design
Amber Hyde
WeatherBoard Ranch Soaps
Bernice Ingram
Homemade Soaps by Bernice
Edna Jackson
Cedar House
Bernadette James
10
Members in the Media
The premier issue (May 2006) of Martha Stewart’s
new magazine, Blueprint (www.marthastewart.com)
contained an excellent mention, including picture, of
a set of three travel soaps made by member Susan
Ryhanen of Saipua (www.creeksidesoaps.com).
And when Martha Stewart appeared on The Today
Show with Matt Lauer on May 11th, Susan’s soaps
were displayed with the products mentioned in the
magazine!
Maximum Living, a new lifestyle TV program,
featured Anne-Marie Faiola of Brambleberry
(www.brambleberry.com) demonstrating Melt &
Pour Soap Making techniques. The show aired
nationally on June 12 on both FOX and WB.
Lori Nova of The Nova Studio (www.thenovastudio.com) was featured in a long article in a recent issue of The Handmade Beauty Connection
(www.handmadebeauty.com/hbcn/arc2006/20060710.asp#feat).
Paula Lindsay of The Pass Christian Soap Co (www.passsoap.com) had
four products beautifully featured in the on-line magazine Southern Breeze
(www.southernbreeze.com - page 12). Watch also for this member to be featured in
an upcoming issue of Southern Living Magazine.
Travel Smith (www.travelsmith.com) knows quality when it sees it.
They used a bar of soap made by Dottie Simmons of Simmons Naturals
(www.simmonsnaturals.com) as a prop to help sell their bath travel kit.
Janine Jacques of Soaps and Stuff (www.soapstuff.net) was featured in her local
paper in an article entitled “Local Entrepreneur
Creates Bath and Body Products”.
Concurrent with the 2006 Annual Conference, Essential Wholesale (who sponsored
a great tour of their facility for conference
attendees) was featured in an article in The
Oregonian newspaper.
Two articles about Marie Gale of Chandler’s Soaps (www.chandlerssoaps.com) have
been published in her local paper - one about
her recent business remodel and expansion and
one about her participation in the 2006 HSMG
Conference.
Dieshawn Holmes of Angelic Soaps and
Gifts has been very successful with her media
releases and has been featured in The Flint
Journal, The Detroit Freepress and The Chicago
Tribune.
HSMG Board Member LaShonda Tyree
of Nyah Beauty (www.nyahbeauty.com) was
featured in a lengthly article .in the New Jersey
Herald News.
Well done! to these soapmakers for
not only getting the word out about
Certification Program
At the 2006 Annual Meeting the membership approved the establishment of a Certification Committee
to develop a certification program for soap makers. The
Committee was charged with setting up a program to
include:
a) Procedural guidelines for administration of the
certification program; and
b) Creation of certification tests at basic, intermediate, advanced and master levels in cold process, hot process and melt & pour soap making.
They were also directed to create examinations based
on objective testing for each level of soap making discipline to prove competency in:
1) The appropriate science and chemistry;
2) Accepted industry standards for good
manufacturing practices;
3) Safety;
The Committee, chaired by Linda Stevens, has been
working diligently to develop a certification program.
Kevin Dunn, with his experience as a professor of chem-
istry, is helping to design a fair and workable examination system that will work in the unique setting of the
HSMG where members are scattered all over the US
and the world.
The content of the certification tests is a primary focus of the Committee, along with ensuring that suitable
study materials and test examinations are available.
Certification will not be mandatory within the
HSMG; it will be an optional program in which a
member may choose to participate. Those members who
do choose to participate and satisfactorily complete the
required testing will be awarded a soapmaker status by
the HSMG which they may promote on their website,
materials, resume, etc.
The Certification Committee will be presenting
their program at the 2007 Annual Meeting for membership approval. The goal is to have the first level of tests
ready to go if the membership approves the committee’s
proposal.
For those interested, on the Wednesday evening be-
11
Welcome
New Members!
Barbara Johnson
Arizona Emu Oil Products
Cassandra Johnson
Red Moon, LLC
Janet Johnson
Essence of Myrrh
Janice Johnson
Lavish Spa Essentials
Miranda Johnson
Charismatic Designs
Madalyn Jones Barber
Maddycakes Bath Embellishments
Shelley Jones
Nahia Creations LLC
Amber Jordan
Ni-Sa-Mi Soaps
Susan Juhola
SeMoBa, Inc.
Carol Karazija
Kazyg Originals
Tamara Kayfetz-Kingston
Latimer Soap Works
Yoon Hee Kim
Elizabeth King-Ettema
Spa-Tisserie
Kelle Kjeer
fat tabby liquescent soaps
Stacey Kluth
B.E. Dickens LLC
Gina Knechtel
Creek Road Crafts
Dr. Real Labrie D.N.
Susan Laycock
Absolutely Fabulous Soap Company
Deborah Ledet
Reflections On The Bayou Candles
Marnina Lee
Luvable Lathers LLC
Jutta-Maria Lemcke
Seifenmanufaktur Lemcke
Whitney Leroy
Naturally Luxe
Jonelle Lewis
Piccadilly
Diane Longacre
Frontier Angel Soap
Sue Lorenz
Thornapple Ridge Soaps
Dyanna Lee Louie
Asian Gift Designs
Lynette Manteau
Terralyn - Bath, Body, Spirit
Leona Marchand
Dandelion Herbals
12
Member Benefit Insurance
On September 8, 2006, the Board of Directors was very pleased to announce that
product and general liability insurance was added as a membership benefit for soapmaker members1. The insurance provided is a General Commercial Liability Policy,
with a $1 million aggregate limit. The limit can be doubled (to $2 million).
The HSMG as a professional trade association (both by legal IRS and Ohio
regulations and by our bylaws) has the duty and responsibility to promote and assist
the entire industry of handcrafted soap makers. With RLI changing their coverage in
early 2006, affordable insurance was the biggest threat to our industry.
Soapmakers looking for insurance were being quoted between $600 and $5000
annual premium; insurance for just ONE weekend show was running about $200.
The high cost of insurance was threatening to put many soap makers out of business,
especially those making more than $425 per month in sales ($5,000 annually). Hence
the Board’s decision to include insurance in the benefits.
The insurance is part of the membership benefit, not optional. The decision to
make insurance an integral part of the member benefits was thoroughly researched
and was not entered into lightly. What we found is that by having “all in” insurance,
the rates are much lower because everyone is covered. Insurance companies have a
concept of “adverse selection” (where the people who MOST need the insurance buy
it first ... i.e. sick people buy health insurance), when all the members are covered then
“adverse selection” is avoided and the premiums are less.
The policy covers soap, candles and cosmetics as defined by the FDA (all types of
bath and body products that cleanse and/or beautify). The policy also offers a small
amount of property coverage. Certificates of Insurance are provided and Additional
Insureds can be added when needed for shows or wholesale sales.
Many soapmakers who also make candles have expressed relief that candles are
covered; getting insurance for candlemakers has been difficult for many years. Soapmakers needing to provide proof of insurance for shows and fairs are also very happy
with the program.
Current members of the HSMG who joined or renewed prior to September 8th,
2006 will not have the insurance unless they choose to extend their membership and
get the insurance benefit now. When their current membership year ends, insurance
will be included in the renewal. Cost for an annual soapmaker membership with
insurance is $485.00; to incrase the coverage is an additional $55.002.
For those members who fall outside the general program parameters and need additional insurance (i.e. to cover a retail store or manufacturing facility) there are several
options.
If the member already has insurance in excess of that with the member benefit,
the member may request a waiver from the insurance company. In essence, this allows
the insurance company to verify the member is insured (thus alleviating the impact of
“adverse selection”) and authorizes the HSMG to allow membership without insurance3.
Alternatively, the member can choose to get the member benefit insurance as
additional liability insurance, which would kick in if their current policy coverage is
insufficient.
Full and detailed information about the insurance benefit and all the ramifications
Soapmaker Members residing outside the 50 US states do not qualify for the insurance; nor do Vendor Members.
The original price charged to members was $501.25; the price was reduced December 1st, 2006 and those who paid
the higher fee have been refunded the difference.
3
The waiver process was not part of the original insurance plan, but was implemented December 1st, 2006 after
negotiations with the insurance company,.
1
2
13
Welcome
New Members!
Art Marko
National Shrinkwrap
Denise Marks
GoPlanetEarth.com
Kim Mash
Chickenmash Farm
Helene Matteson
Urban Kitchen
Stefanie May
Bulverde Soap Company
Margery McCarthy
The Soap Block
Karen McClure
Sangha Products
Karen McCullough
Cottonwood Creek Candles
MaryAlice Migliore
Promoting Handcrafted Soap
The HSMG currently has three ads being run (or scheduled to be run) in national
magazines that are purchased by consumers of
handcrafted soap. Martha Stewart’s Body and
Soul, The Herb Companion and Natural Home
Magazine all carry ads directing readers to
the HSMG website.
These magazines also provide a “reader
inquiry card” where the reader circles ad numbers on the card and sends it in. The names
of people who want more info on handcrafted
soap are then sent to the HSMG and then
posted to the Member Area website for mem-
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Nancy Millar
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Wild Tide Soap Company
Janet Miller
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Meadow Creek Soap
Anne Morgan
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Lisa Mossholder
Beach Cottage Soaps
Brian Paffen
Herbal Art
Ute Page
Signature Soaps
Joan Parsley
Parsley Patch Soap
Body Systems
Christie D. Penn
Jacky Phuvanatnaranubala
Southern Belle Bodycare
Robert Plapp
Penguin Love Silicone Molds
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Ann Pechacek
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Gwyneth Packard
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Deborah Pack
Head To Toe Essentials
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Natural Home Magazine, Jan-Feb 2007
Handcrafted Soap Makers
Guild, Inc.
www.soapguild.org
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Karen Ohlmann
Sandpiper Soap Company
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Christine OBrien
Two Sisters Bath & Body Inc.
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Ads for Natural Home Magazine will
feature pictures of member’s soaps, changing with each issue. The first issue with our
Herb Companion Magazine
ad, the January-February 2007 issue, features
2005 - 2007
soaps by member Linda Crigger.
Members who want to submit pictures for inclusion in print work may send them
to [email protected]. All images for print work must be excellent quality, high
resolution and large, preferably in .tiff or .psd (Adobe Photoshop) format.
Print images may be used in the Journal, HSMG magazine ads or for other
HSMG promotions. They will be selected for use based on the content, style and
where they fit best. Vertical and horizontal images may be submitted; images for the
Natural Home Magazine ads need to be square or nearly square. There’s no guarantee
that a print picture submitted
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Anne Lee’s
December 2006
“Adulterated”, “Misbranded” & “Interstate Commerce”
Key legal Concepts from the FDA
This article is courtesy of the FDA. The Cosmetic Labeling Manual is available at www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-lab1.html. The full text of the applicable
sections of the Code of Federal Regulations can be searched at www.firstgov.gov/Topics/Reference_Shelf/Laws.shtml A list of the applicable sections is at
www.cfsan.fda.gov/%7Edms/cos-cfr.html, although the links are to 2002 versions of the Federal Regulations.
The Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) prohibits, among other things,
 “The introduction or delivery for introduction into
interstate commerce of any food, drug, device, or cosmetic that is adulterated or misbranded”
[FD&C
Act, sec. 301(a); 21 U.S.C. 331(a)]
 “The adulteration or misbranding of any food, drug,
device or cosmetic in interstate commerce” [FD&C
Act, sec. 301(b); 21 U.S.C. 331(b)].
 “The receipt in interstate commerce of any food,
drug, device, or cosmetic that is adulterated or
misbranded, and the delivery or proffered delivery
thereof for pay or otherwise” [FD&C Act, sec.
301(c); 21 U.S.C. 331(c)].
“The alteration, mutilation, destruction, obliteration,
or removal of the whole or any part of the labeling of,
or the doing of any other act with respect to, a food,
drug, device, or cosmetic, if such act is done while
such article is held for sale (whether or not the first
sale) after shipment in interstate commerce and results in such article being adulterated or misbranded”
[FD&C Act, sec. 301(k); 21 U.S.C. 331(k)].
This means that nearly everyone involved in cosmetics
in interstate commerce, such as manufacturers, packers,
distributors, and retailers, is responsible for assuring that
he or she is not dealing in products that are adulterated
or misbranded, even if someone else caused the adulteration or misbranding in the first place. If you introduce
it into interstate commerce or receive it in interstate
commerce, you are responsible. The law applies to components and packaging as well as to finished products.
The FD&C Act describes what constitutes interstate
commerce, adulteration, and misbranding. It also authorizes FDA to take legal action if cosmetics are adulterated or misbranded. In addition, the Fair Packaging and
Labeling Act (FPLA) requires specific label information. Violations of the FPLA result in misbranding.
What does the FD&C Act mean by interstate commerce?
Section 201(b) of the FD&C Act [21 U.S.C. 321(b)]
tells what circumstances place a product in interstate
commerce:
“(1) commerce between any State or Territory and
any place outside thereof, and
(2) commerce within the District of Columbia or
within any other Territory not organized with a
legislative body.”
“Interstate commerce” applies to all steps in a product’s manufacture, packaging, and distribution. It
is very rare that a cosmetic product on the market
is not in “interstate commerce” under the law. For
example, at least some of your ingredients or packaging most likely originate from out of state, or even
out of the country. Likewise, it is foreseeable that
your products will leave the state. Although there are
certain exemptions [21 CFR 701.9], factors such as
these generally cause the requirements of the FD&C
Act to apply to your products.
What makes a cosmetic adulterated?
Section 601 of the FD&C Act [21 U.S.C. 361] describes what causes a cosmetic to be considered adulterated:
“A cosmetic shall be deemed to be adulterated- (a) If it bears or contains any poisonous or deleterious substance which may render it injurious to users
under the conditions of use prescribed in the labeling thereof, or, under such conditions of use that are
customary or usual, except that this provision shall
not apply to coal-tar hair dye, the label of which
FDA - con’t on page 26
15
Welcome
New Members!
Donna Plomchok
Namaste Botanicals
Lura Poe
Southern Essentials
Merrill Pratt
Good Scents Candles and More
Charlotte Quattlebaum
Cats Meow Handcrafted Soap
Johnan Ratliff
JCarol LLC
Julianna Rea
Julianna’s Olive Oil Soap
Denise Richards
Selnise
Rozella Ritchison
Ms. Rosies
Abigail Rivelli
Munchie Bean Candle Company
Kenneth Roberts
Mokosoi Products (Fiji) Ltd
Veronica Ross
New Creation Spa Products Inc.
Suzette Royster
Healed by Nature
Alexandra Ruffo
SonorOasis
Dinah Russell
Three Sisters, LLC
Lloyd Ryan
Rucker Hill Soap Company Inc.
Georgia Sabourin
Old Town Soapwerks
Sandy Santiago
Ginger
Sabrina Santoro
Sunflower Farm
From the Inside of the Bubble
ideas, tips and tricks to make your business easier
by Heather Pelto
Marketing Your Products
Have a design “focus”. Pick a logo, color theme, slogan, shape or font that you
want your customers to identify with and stick with it. Use it everywhere from
product labels and business cards to letterhead and envelopes. This way customers can
easily spot your product. Shoppers tend to purchase what they know and are familiar
with. Make yourself noticeable in some special way.
Use professional looking, high quality label designs for your products. Elegant
labels can be created out of most templates with common computer software. Attractive labels can put your products, literally, on the same shelf as nationally known items.
Don’t be afraid of the competition.
Market your hometown first. Ask local shops to take your products in on consignment. Start with your beautician or local market. Once you are able to establish
a few locations locally you can expand easily by mentioning that so-and-so in the next
town over carries my products. Choose your areas thoughtfully to create a local delivery route that is on your way home from your job that pays the bills, or your spouse’s.
Utilize family for delivery and customer recommendations.
Offer fundraising services. Set up a simple fundraiser order form for your child’s
soccer team or classroom. Offer wholesale pricing incentives. Host a potluck snack
party when the orders are filled, then parents can pick up their child’s orders for delivery.
Hold an Open House. Even if you have no commercial customers you can invite
your family, friends and co-workers over for an open house event. Have a few simple
foods, fruits, wines and let the party begin. Have samples for guests to try. They will
be pleased (and possibly amazed) by your own hand made products. Have a few extra
items for sale or barter. Take orders if necessary!
Tips To Save Money, Time and Economize Space
Take advantage of closeouts. Fragrances typically last at least a year and can
usually be purchased at deep discounts at the end of “fragrance season”. Look for attractive, eye-catching surplus bottles and containers, then design your products around
Tips - con’t on page 23
Cassandra Saturnino
Sisters Potions & Lotions
Donna Rae Scanlon
Sense of Harmony
Tamara Schneider
Petal NY Inc.
-/,$3
Shelly Scott
Thymey Bubbles Soaps
Kenia Sears
Jeri Sharpe
Central Coast Soaps
Jetta Shaver
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Kat Shaw
Sand Dollar Soapworks
Frankies Garden
16
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Use of the term “Organic”
The National Organic Program, which falls under
and salt don’t count in the
the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA)
calculations).
regulates the use of the term “organic” on any product.
Products labeled as “100
In fact, a penalty of up to $10,000 can be levied on any
percent organic” must contain only
person who knowingly sells or labels as organic a prodcertified organically produced ingreuct that is not produced and handled in accordance with dients.
the National Organic Program’s regulaProducts labeled “organic” must
Products containing less than
tions1.
consist
of at least 95% organically
70% percent organic ingreOn August 23, 2005 the FDA issued
dients cannot use the term
produced
a memorandum clarifying that products,
“organic” anywhere on the
ingredients. Any other product inprincipal display panel.
including personal care products, that
gredients must be on the approved
meet the requirements may be labeled as
National List or otherwise authorized
organic and businesses that manufacture and distribute
by
the
USDA
National
Organics Program3.
such products may be certified under the NOP2.
Products meeting the requirements for “100 percent
The NOP labeling and marketing guidelines apply
organic” and “organic” may display these terms and the
to all raw, fresh products and processed foods or prodpercentage of organic content on their principal display
ucts (including cosmetic products) that contain organic
panel and may optionally display the USDA organic seal
ingredients. Labeling requirements are based on the
on the product and in advertising. The name and address
percentage of organic ingredients in a product (water
Organic - con’t on page 25
Unsaponifiables
Where the Whole is Greater Than the Sum of Its Parts
by Jackie Thompson
In our quest for creating the “perfect” bar of soap
we are often so intent in examining our oils and fats
for the hardness and lather their fatty acids bring, that
we can overlook other valuable attributes. The natural
substances within the plant that cannot be made into
soap are called unsaponifiables. They are primarily the
hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols and pigments that make up
the important nutrients of the oil or fat. Those nutrients
are the “special something” that makes our customers keep coming back for the wholesome goodness our
soaps.
Below is a list of some of the most common unsaponifiables, with their nutritional benefits and the oils in
which they are most prevalently found.
Triterpenoids (squalene, steroids and sterols)
Squalene, a metabolic precursor to steroids and sterols, is found in the sebum of human skin. It is used in
cosmetics as a natural oil free moisturizer. Squalene is
found in Olive, Wheat Germ, Rice Bran and Fish oils.
Sterols & Steroids: A common steroid, cholesterol,
is found in the human body. Its counterpoint in the
plant kingdom are the phytosterols which are known to
help reduce cholesterol in humans. Sterols are critical
components of cellular membranes and they serve as a
forerunner to many hormones. In skin care they reduce
aging by their ability to hold water in the skin cells.
Sterols are found in higher concentration in Sesame,
Canola, Corn and Evening Primrose with lower concentrations in Peanut, Safflower, Soybean, Borage, Cottonseed, Coconut, Palm, Olive and Avocado. Lanosterol is
a natural constituent of wool fat.
Vitamin E (tocopherols and tocotrienols)
Tocopherols, mainly alpha-tocopherol, are important antioxidants that help protect the cells against free
radicals. Used topically it helps the skin look younger,
promotes healing, reduces scar tissue, and reportedly aids
in the treatment of eczema, cold sores, skin ulcers and
shingles. Tocopherols are found in Canola, Cottonseed,
Olive, Peanut, Safflower, Soybean and Sunflower oils.
Tocotrienols appear to be the most valuable form of
Vitamin E. Tocotrienols penetrate rapidly through the
skin and help prevent aging and skin damage by oxidative rays. Because it is more potent than tocopherols,
it neutralizes free radicals at a faster rate. The richest
source of tocotrienol is Palm, Palm Kernel, Coconut,
and Rice Bran oils.
Carotenoids Carotenoids are a primary source for
vitamin A in humans and are said to have antioxidant
properties similar to vitamin E. Retinol, a derivative of
beta carotene is noted for its ability to treat skin disorders including psoriasis and acne. Oils rich in carotenoids include Virgin Palm oil, Pine Nut oil and Carrot
17
Welcome
New Members!
Daniel Sherrill
Emerald Crest Bath & Body
Bo-yoon Shin
Pure
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Smith Family Handmade Soap Co.
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Soder and Company
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Handcrafted by Jackie Turbot
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African Shea Butter Co.
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Jennifer Vertanen
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EropaGifts/Earth Garden Naturals
Lisa Wachtel
Palm Bay Soap Co.
Carol Walck
Ahhhbathworks.com
Danny Waller
Plein Air Life
18
Chemistry - con’t from page 1
Water
The chemistry of water is dominated by the interactions between electrical charges. As discussed in the previous section, the OH bond in water is polar, with the oxygen atom holding a negative charge and the two hydrogen
atoms holding positive charges. What happens when two
water molecules are near one another? The negative end of Figure 1. Dance of the water molecules
one water molecule is attracted to the positive end of its
neighbor. This interaction, dubbed hydrogen bonding, is among the strongest intermolecular forces and accounts for the propensity of water molecules to associate with
one another to the exclusion of those molecules which lack OH bonds.
Figure 1 is a molecular model of two water molecules interacting with one another.
In such a model, the negative oxygen atom is shown as a dark red atom, the positive
hydrogen atom as a white one. Unlike a simple formula like H2O, a molecular model
shows the three-dimensional structure of a molecular system.
Atoms are shown as spheres and molecules as collections of overlapping spheres.
The diameters of the spheres are proportional to the sizes of the atoms they represent.
Petroleum
It may seem strange to include petroleum in a article on soap, but the contrast
between the structures of water and petroleum molecules will help us to understand
why soap works the way it does. Petroleum is a natural
mixture of many different compounds, but we shall focus
on the class of compounds known as the alkanes. Alkane
molecules consist of chains of carbon atoms of various
lengths. The simplest alkane, methane, contains a single
carbon atom. Since carbon can bond with as many as four
other atoms, the methane molecule has the formula, CH4.
Methane is the principle component of natural gas.
Figure 2. Ethane
Then next alkane in the series is ethane, containing
two carbon atoms bonded to one another. Since each carbon can bond with as many
as four other atoms, and since the two carbons are already bonded to one another,
that leaves each carbon three available bonding positions. Consequently, ethane has
the formula, CH3CH33. Seeing such a formula, a chemist imagines one CH3 group
bonded back-to-back with another one.
A molecular model for ethane is shown in Figure 2. Since carbon and hydrogen
share electrons nearly equally, ethane is a non-polar molecule. In this article, carbons
and hydrogens bonded to one another are shown as various shades of green to contrast
with the red-and-white color scheme used for the polar OH group. Being non-polar,
ethane molecules do not participate in hydrogen bonding and consequently are attracted only very weakly to other molecules. UnDO-IT-YOURSELF CLASSES
derstanding the differences between ethane and
Learn
how to make your own soap,
water, as illustrated in their molecular models,
candles,
and natural bath & body
will take you a long way toward understanding
products like bath salts, body scrubs,
the chemistry of soap.
fizzy bath bombs, tub tea, lip balm,
bath melts, facial grains, clay masks,
Formulas like H2O and CH3CH3 are great
body butters, lotions, creams, esfor showing the number of atoms in a molecule.
sential oil perfumes & more! Group
Molecular models like Figure 2, on the other
classes & private lesson/consulting
available at The Nova Studio in Point
hand, provide a detailed depiction of the relative
Richmond, CA.
distances and orientations of atoms in molFor more info, call
ecules. Molecular models, however, are difficult
510-234-5700 or visit
to draw free-hand and they often provide more
Chemistry - con’t on page 19
www.TheNovaStudio.com
Chemistry - con’t from page 18
information than we really need to convey. To fill the
gap between formulas and molecular models, chemists
have developed structural formulas to convey some of
the information on molecular structure in an easy-todraw formula.
Figure 3 shows structural formulas for several alkanes. Each carbon-carbon bond is shown as a line and
a string of such bonds is kinked to separate one bond
from the next. There are carbon atoms at the end of each
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Acids and Bases
VOEFDBOF $)
Soapmaking chemistry is dominated by the interaction of acids and bases. Defining exactly what consti-
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are components of mineral oil, fuel oil, kerosene, jet fuel,
and diesel oil. The heaviest alkanes are greasy solids at
room temperature and appear as components of petroleum jelly and paraffin wax. In fact, an older name for
the alkanes are the paraffins.
Figure 4 shows a molecular model for the sixteencarbon hexadecane, CH3(CH2)14CH34. Study it along
with Figure 3 until you are equally comfortable with
the names, formulas, structural formulas, and molecular
models of the alkanes.
Some readers will be on information overload at
this point so I want to step back and emphasize the
points which will be most needed for understanding
fats and soaps. First and foremost, hydrogen bonding is
the principle force that holds water molecules together.
Non-polar molecules lack the OH group needed to
participate in hydrogen bonding and these molecules
tend to be insoluble in water. The alkanes are one such
class of molecules whose structural formulas consist of
long, kinky lines. Whenever a chemist sees such a kinky
line in a structural formula, she thinks to herself, “Hmm,
that part looks pretty greasy.”
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UFUSBEFDBOF$)
Chemistry - con’t on page 20
QFOUBEFDBOF$
)
IFYBEFDBOF $)
Figure 3. Alkanes
chain and at the vertex of each kink in the chain.
All of the alkanes share with ethane relatively weak
inter-molecular forces and a consequent inability to
participate in hydrogen bonding. They are all insoluble
in water. Propane is familiar as the stuff used for gas
grills. Butane and pentane fill “butane” lighters. Hexane,
heptane, and octane are components of gasoline.
As the chains get longer and longer, the melting
points and boiling points increase. The heavier alkanes
Soap Mold & Cutter Box
Easy To Use. Makes Great Soap
Figure 4. Sixteen-carbon Hexadecane
3
CH3CH3 is often shortened to C2H6.
CH3(CH2)14CH3 is often shortened to C16H34.
5
Recall from the previous models that positive atoms are shown as white
spheres, negative atoms as dark or red spheres.
4
Mission Peak Soap
www.missionpeaksoap.com
19
Welcome
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Chemistry - con’t from page 19
tutes an acid is complicated enough that there are several definitions within chemistry,
but the only one which will concern us is the Bronsted-Lowry definition:
An acid is a substance which can donate a hydrogen ion
or proton.
A base is a substance which can accept a proton.
Under these definitions, acids and bases react
by passing protons from one to the other. To make
these reactions concrete, let’s first meet four major
players in the chemistry to come, two acids and
two bases. Once we are familiar with them, we can
examine their mutual interactions.
Acetic Acid
Figure 5. Acetic Acid and Water
This is very likely the first acid to have been produced by human beings, first accidentally, and then intentionally. Acetic acid is produced when alcoholic beverages
“go sour,” and in the absence of fancy chemical gizmos, acids can still be recognized
by their sour taste. Acetic acid is, in fact, responsible for the characteristic smell and
taste of vinegar, which contains approximately 5% acetic acid in water. The structure of
acetic acid gives us a clue as to its chemistry.
Figure 5 shows a model of an acetic acid molecule interacting with a water molecule. Here we see that acetic acid has structural similarities to both water (Figure 1)
and ethane (Figure 2).
Like water, acetic acid has a positively-charged hydrogen atom, or proton, bonded
to a negatively-charged oxygen atom.5 It can engage
in hydrogen bonding with a neighboring water molecule by orienting its negative oxygen to the water’s
positive hydrogen atoms and its positive hydrogen
atom to the water’s negative oxygen atom. But in
addition to these features which render it soluble in
water, acetic acid also bears a resemblance to ethane.
Figure 6.
Like ethane, acetic acid contains two, roughly neuAcetate and
Hydronium Ions tral carbon atoms bonded to one another and to three
roughly neutral hydrogen atoms. Thus the left end of
the model looks like ethane and the right end of the model looks like water. The astute
reader might expect acetic acid to be soluble in both oil and water, and she would be
correct.
The interaction of acetic acid with water is especially interesting because it is in the
nature of acids, by definition, to donate protons to bases.
HC2H3O2 + H2O = C2H3O−2 + H3O+
Figure 6 shows what happens when acetic acid donates a proton to water. The
proton carries with it its positive charge. What’s left of the acetic acid molecule is left
with a negative charge. We call the remnants of the acetic acid molecule, an acetate
ion. Any time an acid donates a proton, the remnant left behind is a negative ion
whose name ends in -ate.
The water molecule, having accepted the positive proton, now has a net positive
charge. We call this water-plus-proton conglomerate an hydronium ion. Any time a
base accepts a proton, the conglomeration formed is a positive ion whose name ends
in -ium. The interaction displayed in Figure 6 is the fundamental acid/base reaction.
While a model shows us this reaction in detail, it is convenient to use a chemical
Chemistry - con’t on page 21
20
Chemistry - con’t from page 20
equation to give the same information more concisely.
The first object in the equation is the formula for
acetic acid. The “H” at the beginning of the formula is
the proton, the one which may be passed from acid to
base. The rest of the formula shows that the molecule
contains two carbon atoms, three non-proton hydrogen
atoms which may not be passed around, and two oxygen
atoms. The second item in the equation is the familiar
formula for water.
The equal sign in the middle is what makes this an
equation. The products to the right of the equal sign
represent the acetate and hydronium ions. Note that the
charges on these ions are shown as superscripts. This
equation shows every atom in every molecule for both
the reactants on the left and the products to the right.
One more level of simplification, however, makes
our discussions of acid/base chemistry a little easier to
follow:
HAce + H2O = Ace− + H3O+
This equation represents the same fundamental
chemistry as the first one, but it hides the trees to make
the forest more obvious. The glob of atoms, C2O2H3−,
is replaced with the shorthand, Ace−, short for the
acetate ion.
When a positive proton sticks to a negative acetate,
the charges cancel and we get the un-charged molecule,
acetic acid, represented by HAce. The fundamental
chemistry is a little easier to follow here; HAce gives up
an H+ to water.
If you liked that shorthand, we can take it one step
even further. Chemists assume that, with rare exception,
acid/base chemistry takes place in water. Since the presence of water is assumed, there is no real need to include
it in the reaction. We can, therefore, rewrite the equation
as:
HAce = Ace− + H+
In words, HAce can break apart into H+ and Ace−.
Conversely, Ace− can accept a proton and turn into
HAce. But accepting a proton is a job for a base, not
an acid. Thus the acid, acetic acid, has a fundamental
relationship to the base, acetate. We say that acetate is
the conjugate base of acetic acid and that acetic acid is
the conjugate acid of acetate. Acetic acid and acetate are
really the same thing, the one with a proton attached
and the other without. You can think of acetic acid as
hydrogen acetate.
In aqueous solution, some of the acetic acid remains
intact and some of it falls apart, dissociates, or ionChemistry - con’t on page 22
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21
Chemistry - con’t from page 21
izes into proton and acetate. Because this ionization is
incomplete, acetic acid is known as a weak acid. This
designation has nothing to do with its usefulness or its
safety. Every chemist knows that in an aqueous solution
like vinegar, some of the acetic acid has remained intact
and some of it has ionized into acetate and proton.
Every chemist knows that proton is just shorthand
for the hydronium ion. Every chemist knows that the
equations of this section are simply shorthand for the
proton hand-off depicted in Figure 5 and Figure 6. And
now that you know a few more things that every chemist knows, you are one step further to becoming a chemist yourself.
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium hydroxide is, perhaps, the most important
chemical in soapmaking. In chemistry, it is known as a
strong base, where the word strong contrasts with weak
as discussed in the last section. When dissolved in water,
a strong base falls apart, separating its first name from
its last name. Sodium hydroxide, for example, falls apart
into a positive sodium ion and a negative hydroxide ion.
NaOH = Na+ + OH−
In solution, the sodium ion is surrounded by water
molecules, each presenting its negative oxygen atom to
the positive sodium ion. The hydroxide ion is surrounded
by water molecules, each presenting their positive hydrogen atoms to the negative hydroxide ion.
Sodium hydroxide is considered a strong base, not
because it is dangerous or caustic. No, in chemistry a
strong base is simply one for which this dissociation
into ions, this ionization, is complete. All of the sodium
hydroxide molecules dissociate into sodium and hydroxide ions.
Once in solution, the sodium ion really plays very
little part in subsequent chemistry. All
of the action is really
with the hydroxide
ion which, as a base,
can accept a proton
from an acid. The
Figure 7.
fundamental reaction Hydronium Hydroxide
is that of hydroxide
ion with a proton to make water:
H+ + OH− = H2O
Note that this fundamental reaction leaves out the
source of the proton, which must have come from an
acid, and leaves out the source of the hydroxide, which
must have come from a base. The proton might come
from any acid and the hydroxide from any base, but let’s
take for example the reaction of sodium hydroxide with
22
acetic acid. This reaction may be represented by either of
these equations:
NaOH + HC2H3O2 = NaC2H3O2 + H2O
NaOH + HAce = NaAce + H2O
In reading these equations, a chemist understands
that sodium hydroxide is actually present as sodium ion
and hydroxide ion and that acetic acid is partially present as proton and acetate ion. She further understands
that proton is actually present as hydronium ion. What
do you suppose happens when a hydronium ion bumps
into a hydroxide ion? The hydronium passes a proton
to the hydroxide leaving two water molecules, as shown
in Figure 7. You may consider the name hydronium
hydroxide as a synonym for two water molecules.
When sodium hydroxide reacts with acetic acid, the
proton is passed from the acid, via a water molecule, to
the hydroxide ion, which then becomes a water molFigure 8.
ecule. What of the sodium
Citric Acid
and acetate ions? They remain in solution as separate
ions for the time being. But
if we boiled the water away
or allowed it to evaporate,
we would be left with a
white powder, a salt known
as sodium acetate.
When an acid reacts with a base, you get water and
a salt whose first name comes from the base and whose
second name comes from the acid. Sodium hydroxide
reacts with acetic acid (hydrogen acetate) to yield sodium acetate and water.
Potassium Hydroxide
Chemically, there is very little difference between
sodium and potassium hydroxide. They are both strong
bases and react with acids in the same way. Only two
differences are of interest to the soapmaker.
First, potassium salts tend to be more soluble in water than sodium salts. For this reason, we use potassium
hydroxide rather than sodium hydroxide to produce
liquid soaps. Second, a molecule of potassium hydroxide
weighs more than one of sodium hydroxide, an issue
which will be explored in a later installment.
We need say little more about potassium hydroxide
for now, but the astute chemist should be able to write
down the balanced equation for the reaction of potassium hydroxide with acetic acid.
Citric Acid
Citric acid is a weak acid familiar to soapmakers for
its use in making bath bombs, which bubble and fizz
when dropped into water. Chemically, it is very similar
Chemistry - con’t on page 23
Chemistry - con’t from page 22
to acetic acid except for four things.
First, citric acid is a solid at room temperature
whereas acetic acid is a liquid. Because of this, shipping
citric acid is less expensive than shipping acetic acid.
Second, citric acid is odorless whereas acetic acid, particularly pure acetic acid, has a strong, characteristic smell.
This alone will make you appreciate our use of citric acid
rather than acetic acid for chemical analysis. Third, citric
acid is a triprotic acid; each molecule is capable of delivering up to three protons in acid/base reactions. Finally,
of course, a molecule of citric acid weighs more than one
of acetic acid, an issue which will be explored in a later
installment.
Figure 8 shows a molecular model of citric acid,
which bristles with oxygen atoms and sports three acidic
protons. As with all acids, citric acid acts as a proton
donor. As a weak acid in aqueous solution, it will pass
some, but not all of its three protons to neighboring
water molecules. When it reacts with a strong base,
however, it may yield up one, two, or three of its protons,
depending on how much base is available.
For the time being, let’s consider the reaction of three
molecules of potassium hydroxide with one of citric acid:
3 KOH + H3C6H5O7 = K3C6H5O7 + 3 H2O
3 KOH + H3Cit = K3Cit + 3 H2O
Potassium hydroxide reacts with citric acid to pro-
Figure 9. Stearic Acid
duce the salt, potassium citrate, and water.
In the first version of the equation we have used the
formulas for citric acid, H3C6H5O7, and citrate ion,
C6H5O73−. We can say that citric acid is the conjugate
acid of citrate ion and that citrate ion is the conjugate
Test your recipe first,
before making a large batch
Mini Mold
Test Kit
Each Kit consists of:
• Two 1-bar silicone lined Mini Molds, 2.25”x 3.25”x 1.25”
Each mold will make up to a 5.3 oz/150 gr bar of soap.
• CD containing Instructions with photos, equipment list,
Spreadsheet for formulating test recipes.
Tips - con’t from page 16
the bargain. Calculate how much raw material you need
for a season and purchase your materials in bulk. Shop
locally or regionally for best price, if ordering over the
internet keep shipping charges in mind. It may not
make dollar sense to buy a “deal” in California if you live
in Maine.
Create a working calendar. Make your products
in bulk batches well ahead of the season coming up.
Prepare products so you have time to fuss with price
stickers and point of sale presentation items before big
vending events. Consider hiring a neighbor, babysitter,
or family member to label or wrap your items. Paying a
helper for a couple hours is a big relief, if you can use the
time to focus on generating MORE products.
Economize on space. Utilize tote bins and storage
shelves to store unused items; label them clearly and
group by practical use. Keep storage items out of the
way of your work-space. If you always have one clear
work table to set up a project, you’ll feel less frustrated.
If you are still working from your home - Embrace your
space! After you have accepted that you cannot financially swing a separate location, you should organize
your soap business to co-exist within your home-life.
Set aside a room, or three, to devote as your production,
office and packaging areas.
Inquiry and Networking
Increase the outlets for your product. It takes time
to build a good stable business. The best way to have
more outlets for your products is to inquire directly with
the store owner or manager. Have pricing information,
a business card, and samples at the ready. If you leave
without much conversation, call back within a few days
to ask for feedback. Ask what time of year they do their
purchasing then mark it on the calendar to call again.
If a store has similar products, ask anyway. They may
not be moving well and might prefer to try something
else. Offer both a wholesale and consignment program
if possible. Some small shops are often attracted to consignment sales as it provides a low-risk option of having
new items on the shelf.
Network with other soap makers. Networking with
another soap maker is the best tool you can ever hope
to have. It makes sense to check out other local soap
makers. You may find that you can get (and give) helpful information, establish a joint venture or even form
a raw materials buying club for discounts. Being able
to brainstorm and conceptualize ideas with someone
Upland Soap Factory
www.uplandsoapfactory.com  (866) 788-1966
23
Making Crock Pot Soap (CPHP)
by Judi Cox
Making soap in a crock pot is an easy way to use the “hot
process” method.
This how-to tutorial outlines my steps for making crock
pot soap and assumes you are familiar with the soapmaking
process.
First off, start with a good recipe. I prefer recipes that
have a higher amount of liquid oil to solids. One of my
favorite recipes is very simple: 60% Olive Oil, 20% Palm
Kernel Oil, 20% Palm Oil. Run it through a lye calculator
to determine the amount of lye and [distilled] water needed.
I don’t discount my water when making hot process. I have
also included one of my favorite recipes at the end of these
instructions.
I use a 6 1/2 quart crock pot. A 4 pound batch of soap fits
perfectly. It fills the crock pot about half full - giving room in
case it bubbles up, but not too little an amount that it could
burn.
First, measure water and set aside. Then measure the lye
into a separate container. Slowly pour the lye into the pitcher
of cold water. Stir until dissolved. Set aside in a safe place.
Be safe and careful with the lye; use gloves and goggles when
handling it.
Once I have my lye mixture set aside, I measure my solid
oils. These can be put into the crock pot to be melted. It
takes longer this way, so I generally put them into the microwave for a couple minutes until melted and then pour into the
crockpot set on low.
Next, I measure my olive oil - and/or any other liquid oils
I am using, and pour them into the crockpot.
Get out your handy-dandy stickblender and using low
speed, slowly pour the lye mixture into the melted oils. Gently move the stickblender around, up, down, around, ensuring
a nice even blend. If you don’t have a stickblender, a stainless
steel wire whisk works well, it just requires a little more arm
power.
Once it has reached “trace”, I put the lid on the crockpot
and turn the heat setting up to high. However, the first few
times I made crock pot soap, I left it on low until I was confident in how it worked (both the soap AND my crockpot).
Once the soap is cooking, I ready my mold, measure out
any fragrance oils or essential oils and any additives I plan to
use.
After about 15 or 20 minutes, take the lid off and, using a
Judi Cox is a work at home mom living in the Ohio Valley with her
husband and 4 children. Judi’s interests include creating websites (two
of her websites are www.momslittlegarden.com and www.mommamuse.
com). She enjoys gardening for fun and for the birds, playing with the
kids, reading, making handmade soap, and other crafts.
24
potato masher, mash the soap around. It has a look of a vaseline texture; glossy, slick. It will have a waxy feel if you rub a
piece of it between gloved fingers.
Add your additives, colorants, herbs, etc and mix well using the potato masher. Once that is blended fairly well, add
your fragrance and mix again.
It is done! At this point, it’s really soap. It only needs to
be put into your mold. I do this in large spoonfuls, pounding my mold on the counter every few scoops to ensure it
packs into the mold tightly. Once I have it all in the mold, I
put a baggie on my hand and flatten the top - making sure to
“squish” it into the corners really well.
Now is a good time to wash all the dishes. And you don’t
even need to add any soap! You should see some lovely lather
from the soap you’ve just made.
I let this sit over-night. The next morning, I unmold and
slice into bars to air out for a week or so. Once each bar has
had time to harden, I bevel each one and it’s ready for use or
sale.
Rosemary Mint Handmade Soap (4 lbs)
Disclaimer: Sodium Hydroxide is highly caustic and should be handled
carefully and knowledgeably. It is each soapmakers responsibility to research
safety procedures for soapmaking.
2006 Annual Meeting
 The President, Marie Gale, briefed the membership
on the current strategy plan, including what is planned for the
coming two years and what has already been accomplished.

The Board of Directors moved to create a Certification
Program for soap makers to be researched and created and
submitted to the membership for final approval in 2007. The
motion passed, with many members subsequently commenting
on the benefits of such a certification program and expressing
their excitement about how it might work.

Elections were held, with Jackie Thompson, Leigh
O’Donnell and Robert Kishtok each being elected to a two year
term as members of the Board of Directors.
Annual Meeting, President Marie Gale speaking

Five changes to the Bylaws were approved by the membership. In essence, these established an Advisory
Board, created a new Membership Committe for membership recruitment and retention, removed the Audit Committee and put alternative financial review processes in place and clarified the procedure should an existing Board
member be elected President.

Rob Brown (The Lebermuth Company, Inc.), Catherine Failor (Milky Way Molds) and Mike Lawson
(Columbus Foods / Soaper’s Choice) were awarded the status of Honorary Lifetime Member for their long-time
contributions to the HSMG.
The complete meeting minutes are available in the Member’s Area Website at www.soapguild.org. (Login required)
Organic - con’t from page 17
of the certifying agent of the final product must be displayed on the information panel and may be displayed in
advertising.
Processed products that contain at least 70% organic
ingredients can use the phrase “made with organic
ingredients” and list up to three of the organic ingredients or food groups on the principal display panel. For
example, soap made with at least 70% organic ingredients and only organic oils may be labeled either “soap
made with organic olive, soy and coconut oils,” or “soap
made with organic oils.”
Since the lye percentage in soap (excluding water)
is less than 30%, soaps made with organic oils could be
labeled “made with organic ingredients” (provided the
other requirements for certification are met). Because
lye is NOT on the approved lists of other ingredients,
soap cannot be listed as “100% organic” nor “organic”.
Any product labeled as organic must identify each
organically produced ingredient in the ingredient statement on the information panel.
Processed products that contain less than 70 percent organic ingredients cannot use the term organic
anywhere on the principal display panel. However, they
may identify the specific ingredients that are organically
produced on the ingredients statement on the information panel4.
Remember that these labeling guidelines are in addi-
tion to all other labeling requirements by the FDA and
FTC.
However, even if your ingredients meet the criteria,
products that are sold, labeled, or represented as organic
must be produced and processed in accordance with
the NOP standards. In addition to the USDA NOP
standards (and the necessary inspections and record
keeping) many states have regulatory bodies and licensure processes to certify organic products.
Organic - con’t on page 28
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FDA - con’t from page 15
bears the following legend conspicuously displayed
thereon: “Caution-This product contains ingredients
which may cause skin irritation on certain individuals and a preliminary test according to accompanying
directions should first be made. This product must
not be used for dyeing the eyelashes or eyebrows;
to do so may cause blindness.”, and the labeling of
which bears adequate directions for such preliminary testing. For the purposes of this paragraph and
paragraph (e) the term “hair dye” shall not include
eyelash dyes or eyebrow dyes.
 (b) If it consists in whole or in part of any filthy,
putrid, or decomposed substance.
 (c) If it has been prepared, packed, or held under
insanitary conditions whereby it may have become
contaminated with filth, or whereby it may have been
rendered injurious to health.
 (d) If its container is composed, in whole or in part,
of any poisonous or deleterious substance which may
render the contents injurious to health.
 (e) If it is not a hair dye and it is, or it bears or
contains, a color additive which is unsafe within the
meaning of section 721(a).” [Section 721(a) of the FD&C
Act [21 U.S.C. 379(a)], is the section that states the circumstances under which color additives are deemed unsafe.]
Note that the law addresses--
 the composition of the product itself,
 the conditions under which the product is manufactured, shipped,
and stored,
 the product’s container, and
 an exception for coal-tar hair dyes.
What makes a cosmetic misbranded?
Section 602 of the FD&C Act [21 U.S.C. 362] describes what causes a cosmetic to be considered misbranded:
“A cosmetic shall be deemed to be misbranded- (a) If its labeling is false or misleading in any particular.
 (b) If in package form unless it bears a label containing (1) the name and place of business of the manufacturer, packer, or distributor; and (2) an accurate
statement of the quantity of the contents in terms
of weight, measure, or numerical count: Provided,
That under clause (2) of this paragraph reasonable
variations shall be permitted, and exemptions as to
small packages shall be established, by regulations
prescribed by the Secretary.
 (c) If any word, statement, or other information
required by or under authority of this Act to appear
on the label or labeling is not prominently placed
FDA - con’t on page 27
Upland Soap Factory
Upland, CA
Silicone Lined Soap Molds
Stainless Steel Shaft Squirrel Mixers
Private Label Herbal Soap
Consultations to the Trade
(866) 788-1966
26
www.uplandsoapfactory.com
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FDA - con’t from page 26
thereon with such conspicuousness (as compared
with other words, statements, designs, or devices in
the labeling) and in such terms as to render it likely
to be read and understood by the ordinary individual
under customary conditions of purchase and use.
 (d) If its container is so made, formed, or filled as to
be misleading.
 (e) If it is a color additive, unless its packaging and
labeling are in conformity with such packaging
and labeling requirements, applicable to such color
additive, as may be contained in regulations issued
under section 721. This paragraph shall not apply
to packages of color additives which, with respect to
their use for cosmetics, are marketed and intended
for use only in or on hair dyes (as defined in the last
sentence of section 601(a)).
 (f ) If its packaging or labeling is in violation of an
applicable regulation issued pursuant to section 3 or
4 of the Poison Prevention Packaging Act of 1970.
Note that under the FD&C Act, the term “misbranding”
applies to- False or misleading information,*
 Lack of required information,
 Conspicuousness and readability of required information,
 Misleading packaging,
 Improper packaging and labeling of color additives, and
 Deficiencies where the Poison Prevention Packaging Act requires special packaging.
*Note: According to the FD&C Act, a determination
that labeling is “misleading” includes considering both
what the label says and what it fails to reveal:
“If an article is alleged to be misbranded because
the labeling or advertising is misleading, then in
determining whether the labeling or advertising is
misleading there shall be taken into account (among
other things) not only representations made or suggested by statement, word, design, device, or any
combination thereof, but also the extent to which the
labeling or advertising fails to reveal facts material
in the light of such representations or material with
respect to consequences which may result from the
use of the article to which the labeling or advertising
relates under the conditions of use prescribed in the
labeling or advertising thereof or under such conditions of use as are customary or usual” [FD&C Act,
sec. 201(n); 21 U.S.C. 321(n)].
In addition, a cosmetic marketed in violation of the
FPLA or any regulations issued under its authority
is considered misbranded within the meaning of the
FD&C Act [15 U.S.C.1456(a)]. For cosmetics offered
for sale as consumer commodities, the FPLA-» requires further label information, such as the product’s identity [15 U.S.C.1453], and
» authorizes the implementation of regulations to
specify the proper presentation of required label
information, require an ingredient declaration, and
prevent deceptive packaging [15 U.S.C.1454 (c)]
The FPLA defines a consumer commodity, as it applies
to FDA-regulated products, as:
“any food, drug, device, or cosmetic (as those terms
are defined by the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic
Act ..., and any other article, product, or commodity
of any kind or class which is customarily produced
or distributed for sale through retail sales agencies
or instrumentalities for consumption by individuals,
or use by individuals for purposes of personal care or
in the performance of services ordinarily rendered
within the household, and which usually is consumed
or expended in the course of such consumption or
use.” [15 U.S.C.1459(a)]
27
Organic - con’t from page 25
Except for operations whose gross agricultural income from organic sales totals $5,000 or less, operations
that grow or process organic foods or products must be
certified by USDA-accredited certifying agents. Only
a certified operation may label its products or ingredients as organic and may use the “USDA Organic” seal.
There are four basic requirements for organic certification. Each one, of course, has very specific legal
guidelines. When a certifying agent comes, they will
look at your compliance for:
1) Record Keeping
Your records must fully disclose all activities and
transactions in sufficient detail as to be readily understood and audited. Your records must provide a
clear audit trail of incoming ingredients, production
runs, product storage and sales.
2) Pest Management
Organic handlers must implement Integrated Pest
Management (IPM) strategies including preventative practices and regular monitoring. Measures must
be taken to avoid contamination of organic products
and packaging with any pest control materials.
Note that it includes “packaging materials” - so if
your soap is in a box, you would need to get certification that the box manufacturer (or paper supplier)
hasn’t sprayed the paper/box to prevent pest damage.
3) Contamination and Comingling Avoidance
Operations handling organic and non-organic products in the same facilities must demonstrate their
ability to avoid contamination of organic products.
All organic ingredients must be stored, moved, used,
mixed and otherwise handled separately from nonorganic materials. For example, you couldn’t use the
same oil pumps for organic and non-organic oils
without ensuring they are fully cleaned in between.
4) Product Composition
The organic ingredients that make up the final
product composition must be certified by a USDAaccredited certification agent.
There are 55 USDA accredited certifying agents
(companies) located in 35 US states5. Some agents are
qualified to certify in more than one state; not all agents
certify processors as well as farms. The cost varies, but
the agencies checked showed prices starting at around
$1,000, plus expenses, for initial certification.
States
Some states also have their own organic programs.
The state progams must meet or exceed the USDA standards, so states requirements may be even more stringent. In addition to the state standards, there may also
be licensure fees, inspections and/or annual audits.
California, for example, requires that every person in
in the state who processes, packages, stores, distributes
or handles (including handlers who do not take possession) processed food, pet food or cosmetics in California that are sold as organic or one of its ingredients
is claimed to be organic, is required to register with the
Department’s Food and Drug Branch (FDB) under
the Organic Processed Product Registration Program
(OPPR), and pay an annual registration fee. Fees range
from $50 to $700 per year, based on annual revenue6.
Then, of course, once you have received your initial
certification at the state and federal levels, you must
maintain your certification with regular audits and
inspections.
Is getting organic certification for your products
worthwhile? That depends on the value you and your
customers place on the knowledge that the product
meets federal standards, and on whether using the term
“organic” will result in the added sales to offset the costs
of implementing and maintaining the program.
The natural and organic market has been exploding
over the last 10 years. Some reports indicate that the
sales of natural and organic personal care products have
been growing by over 20% a year since the late 1990’s
and that sales doubled between 2002 and 2005. It’s
possible that being able to promote your products as
“organic” could help deepen your tap into that market.
For some, the benefits definitely outweigh the costs.
Dr. Bronners actively promotes their organic certification and was a major catalyst in getting the USDA to
extend the organic program to include cosmetics.
Unlike “organic”, using the word“natural”, as a marketing term is not regulated. The lack of regulation has
diluted the impact of the word as a promotional tool,
but many consumers still look for it on the products
they buy. If you are promoting to the “natural minded”
consumers, using “natural” as a product descriptor could
have a better cost/benefit ratio than going through the
organic certification process.
Keeping in mind that there aren’t regulations on
what is “natural”, if you decide to use that term it’s
always a good idea to make sure your customers under-
USDA National Organic Program, Labeling and Marketing Information. http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop/FactSheets/LabelingE.html
August 23, 2005, Memorandum from Barbara C. Robinson, Deputy Administrator, Transportation & Marketing Programs, Agricultural Marketing Service
USDA; http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop/NOP/PolicyStatements/NOPPolicyMemo08_23_05.pdf
3
USDA NOP “National List - Regulatory Text” http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop/NOP/standards/ListReg.html
4
See USDA NOP “Labeling Packaged Goods” for a labeling guideline chart at http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop/ProdHandlers/labelTable.htm
5
USDA NOP, “Accredited Certifying Agents” http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop/CertifyingAgents/Accredited.html
6
California Food and Drug Branch, “Organic Processed Product Registration Requirements”, http://www.dhs.ca.gov/fdb/HTML/Food/organreq.htm
1
2
28
Take Advantage of
Your Member Benefits!
www.soapguild.org/gallery.php
On-Line Vendor List [Vendor Members]
Web Banner [Benefactor Members]
Benefactor members, in acknowledgement for their
additional support of the HSMG, receive priority listings
in the vendor list or soapmaker roster and may include a
banner with their listing. They are also listed on a special
page on the website.
www.soapguild.org/benefactors.php
Member Forum
Access the Member Forum to communicate with other
members, post questions, get updates on HSMG projects, and generally stay in touch. Vendor members may
post info about sales and special offers and answer questions about their products.
www.soapguild.org/mbr-logos.php
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All members receive a discount on conference registration. Vendor members also receive discounts
on their vendor table(s).
www.soapguild.org/conference.php
Use the member seal on your website, packaging and
promotional materials. Let your customers know you
are a member of the HSMG.
4 0"
Conference Discount
Use of the Member Seal
4 0"
www.soapguild.org/find-vendor.php
www.soapguild.org/mbr-requests.php
%
When soapmakers need a vendor they look to the HSMG
vendor list. Website visitors can find you by state/country, company name or type of products you sell. Listing
includes your description of your products.
Public visitors to the website may submit questions
which are available for members to answer and and
promote their soaps and products.
* -%
Show off your soaps by including a picture in the Soap
Gallery. Pictures are linked to your Soapmaker Roster
listing so visitors can find out who made the soap they
like and contact you.
Public Info Requests
1
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[Soapmaker Members]
www.soapguild.org/mbr-leads.php
)
Soap Gallery
Contact information for people requesting more info
from magazine ads are posted to the Member Website.
Download them and promote your soaps and products.
* -%
www.soapguild.org/find-soapmaker.php
Sales Leads
6
Get your business in front of the public by being included in the on-line soapmaker roster. Website visitors
can find you by state/country, company name or type of
products you sell. Roster listing includes your description of your products.
)
On-Line Soapmaker Roster [Soapmaker Members]
Journal
A print Journal is sent several times a year, including
one color issue (like this one). Back issues of the Journal
are available in the member website.
www.soapguild.org/mbr-journals.php
Brochures
Download and print HSMG brochures to use to educate
your customers.
www.soapguild.org/mbr-brochures.php
eNews
General updates about the HSMG activities, projects
and accomplishments sent to you via email. It it sent to
the email address listed in your member profile.
www.soapguild.org/forum
Member Website
Use the Member website to access your member benefits and keep your soapmaker/vendor listings up to date.
Maintain your mailing address and contact information.
Read up on HSMG policies, bylaws and reports from the
Board of Director.
www.soapguild.org/login.php
Referral Program
Get credit toward HSMG products and services by referring other soapmakers or vendor to join the HSMG. [2007]
Special Notice About Spam Filters
You will not receive email from the HSMG if
it is blocked by a spam filter. Earthlink and
other internet service providers often have
automatic spam filters.
Any spam filter must be set to allow mail
from addresses @soapguild.org.
If you need help setting your spam filter, send
an email to [email protected].
Patrons
Special Thanks To Our Benefaector Members!
Rob Brown
The Lebermuth Company, Inc.
David Critchfield
Dianna Fleming
Dianna’s Sugar Plum Sundries
Michael Lawson
Mission Peak Soap Products
Columbus Foods/Soaper’s Choice
Karen Moore
Cibaria International, Inc.
John See
The Chemistry Store
Deborah May
WholesaleSuppliesPlus.com
Supporters
Rebekah Bailey
Linda Emory
The Soap Dish, LLC
Suncreek Natural Soap Company
Kelly Bloom
Dennis Fioravanti
BloomWorks Natural Soap Co
Essential Wholesale
Shekinah Cohen
Marie Gale
Garden of Yizreel
Amy Coker
Karen Staub
Somerset Cosmetic Company
Linda Stevens
ForSoapmakers.com
Upland Soap Factory
Deborah Jasien
Jennifer Welch
Fields of Ambrosia, Inc.
AromaHaven/Rustic Escentuals
Devjani Mitra
From Nature With Love
Lotioncrafter
Ron Jonas
Willow Way LLC
Tammy Doering
Friends
Dead Sea Bulk Materials
Alicia Grosso
Annabella and Company
Kerri Mixon
Pallas Athene Soap
Susan Svec
Susan’s Soaps & More
Monika Dowker
Yvonne Hands
Hands Made
The Aromatic Mills
Shyra Murphy
Diana Thompson
Barbara Freeman
Debra Hendron
MoSoap
Zino Nakasuji
E. D. Luce Packaging
Jackie Thompson
Jo Graham
Hyun Ju Jo
Glenn Petrie
Aquarius Aromatherapy
The Soapers Market
Garden Treasures
Teresa Gregory
Daily Blessings Farm
Larry and Jean Greves
Scenter Stage
ToNature
Paula Lindsay
Spa Salon Solutions
Lura Poe
The Pass Christian Soap Co.
Southern Essentials
Denise Marks
Susan Ryhanen
Marla McCord
Jeri Sharpe
GoPlanetEarth.com
FGMarket.com
Creekside Soaps
Central Coast Soaps
Harmony SoapWorks
Gaily Rebecca Soaps
Mary Vastola
The Ponte Vedra Soap Shoppe
Jim Yang
Skin Theory
Stacy & Michael Yocco
The Fay Farm