Beyond Cool 2 Turnaround Takes Shape in America

2 Adidas Turnaround Takes Shape in America
FOOTWEAR NEWS VOL. 66 NO. 42 NOVEMBER 15, 2010
7
The Pop-Up
Phenomenon
Beyond
Cool
Young men will be polishing their look this
spring with hip casuals that take basics a
step further. The season’s laceups, moccasins
and boots prove that dressing down goes
way beyond just sneakers. Here, RAG & BONE
accents suede boots with blue laces.
N E W S P A P E R
)13LQGG
30
FN MAY 29, 2006 NEWS
FN NOVEMBER
15, 2010
BREAKING
BREAKING
NEWS
2
Adidas Targets America
Armed with a new executive team, fresh product and innovative marketing, the brand is bullish on the U.S. market.
FN Photo by TODD ECKELMAN (Nilsson).
By JENNIFER ERNST BEAUDRY
NEW YORK — As far as Herbert Hainer is concerned, the U.S.
market might finally be the land of opportunity for the Adidas
brand.
“I’ve always said the American market has the biggest potential, because we are definitely underdeveloped [there],”
the Adidas Group CEO told Footwear News. And after a year
when North America was the company’s “most challenging,”
according to Hainer, the brand has positioned itself to grow.
Earlier this month, Adidas reported that third-quarter sales for the
North American division increased
14 percent across the company’s
portfolio, with strong growth for
the flagship brand. The classicsfocused Adidas Originals business, as well as the soccer and
training categories have been outperforming, Hainer said, and future backlogs are looking strong.
“We’ve put in several product
people who are specifically working for the U.S. market to get the
right product, especially in areas
such as running and training. And
this is bearing fruit now, which
you can see quarter by quarter,”
Hainer said. “Yeah, we are doing a
lot of things right at the moment
in the U.S.”
But it hasn’t been easy.
Under Patrik Nilsson, who
took over as president of the
North American business in
2007, the brand has worked
to clean up its overdistributed
Originals line and refocus its
product offering to better suit
the tastes of the U.S. market. And
last year, amid a well-publicized
tough period of cost-cutting and
declining sales, Nilsson was charged with developing a plan
to maximize the Adidas brand in the U.S.
One year later, with a sharp focus on high-school students
and an almost-entirely realigned workforce, Nilsson said
he is ready to do just that. “When you do the right things ...
magic can happen,” the exec said in an interview at his Portland, Ore., office last month. His five-year plan, named “U.S.
Generation 2015,” took effect this year and is part of the
)13LQGG
company’s overall global goal to grow by almost 50 percent
to 17 billion euros. Some central tenets were to strengthen
outreach to key retailers, improve the supply chain and build
up a specialty sales force, Nilsson said. “We had to take a
number of people out in order to afford those roles that were
more influential in how to execute our product — fewer thinkers and more doers,” he said.
In the past year, Nilsson said, leadership in the sales and
product creation teams have been shuffled and realigned,
creating “a mix of Adidas veterans, but also people who have
Clockwise from top: Adidas North
America President Patrik Nilsson in his
office; the brand’s spring ’11 ClimaCool
Ride running style; a scene from the
“Fast Don’t Lie” ad with Dwight Howard.
come in with new insights from the
outside,” he said. It’s a combination,
he said, that has let the “design and development
and marketing sit together with the creation teams, and they
have one goal on how to win in this marketplace.”
The North American leadership team also has been overhauled: Joining company veteran Lawrence Norman, the
head of global basketball, are seven newcomers, all of whom
are new to the company or their position since April of last
year. Michael Peveto is now head of running; Mark ColinThome is head of training; Mark Daniels serves as head of
football and team sports; Nic Vu oversees retail, Simon Atkins
is in charge of Sportstyle; David Baxter leads sports performance and the sports licensing division; and Robert Capener
heads up basketball.
“A strong team has been built, and that foundation is making
us feel really good about finally maximizing our opportunity
here,” Nilsson said. “We [may be] close to $2 billion, but still
when I walk around and look at our distribution and how our
brand is displayed, we have an opportunity in every category,
in every distribution channel and in every store.”
The changes at Adidas were the right ones, according to Matt
Powell, an analyst at SportsOneSource. “Adidas is in the beginning of a turnaround. They have really come around and
understand the need to build a line for the U.S. market with
people who are well-grounded in the U.S. business,” he said.
Nilsson noted that the new team has never been more closely
aligned with their German counterparts. “I could not be happier
about our relationship and our support from Germany today,”
he said. “Are there a few
people on our team who
might feel on a daily
basis that the dialogue
with Germany is tough?
[Maybe.] But it should be.
It’s our headquarters,
and they are setting
the direction for the
brand everywhere in
the world and we need to
acknowledge that.”
The internal changes also have been paying off at retail.
“There’s been some great improvement with soccer, and I
see that continuing through 2011,” said Brian Trask, footwear
manager for Boston-based City Sports. “And Originals, for us,
is a pretty good business as well, with clean styles that resonate with our customers.”
Finish Line, which partnered with Adidas to launch its Mega
collection for Originals, declined to break out actual sales results, but Sam Sato, president and chief merchandising officer for the chain, said he had been pleased: “There was a lot of
fun and excitement surrounding this product, and customers
responded well to it.”
That momentum should carry through, Adidas execs said.
“I feel really good about the order book, and the meetings
we’re having right now about third-quarter product are increasingly positive,” Nilsson said.
“We know our backlogs for the next quarter and for the first
quarter of 2011, and this all looks very encouraging,” Hainer
added. “The North American business will grow double-digit
every year. This is our plan.”
Retailers also said they are upbeat on the future prospects
Continued on page 21
30
FN MAY 29, 2006 NEWS
FN NOVEMBERNEWS
15, 2010
BREAKING
BREAKING
4
INSIDER
By Marcie Young and Kristen Henning
Got tips? E-mail [email protected] or [email protected]
Show Scene
NBC’s “Parenthood” might be all about the family drama, but the
folks behind the TV series know a thing or two about shoes, too.
Fictional sneaker company T&S Footwear, which is loosely based
on the Patagonia model, has been getting some major play in the
show’s second season, with brother and sister duo Adam and Sarah
Braverman (played by Peter Krause and Lauren Graham) and
company owner Gordon Flint (William Baldwin, below with Graham)
grappling with layoffs, new product
development and prepping for the
spring ’11 shoe shows. “There was a
huge amount of research,” production
designer Steven Jordan said about
creating the Outdoor Retailer-like set
that made a cameo in a recent episode. From the sprawling booths to
buyers writing orders with reps, the
crew certainly managed to hit a realistic chord. But, Jordan told Insider,
turning a few Southern
California ballrooms into
a massive trade show
required major foot work,
not to mention four days
of labor.
Photos courtesy of GETTY IMAGES (Carey/“Fashion Show”).
How familiar were you
with the shoe show
concept?
“[We had no knowledge]
whatsoever. We literally Googled everything: trade shows, shoe
shows, outdoor shows and looked at different websites to get an idea
of [what’s out there]. We wanted to keep it as current as possible.”
What went into creating the show floor?
“Starting from scratch was financially impossible, [so we] called
vendors like New Balance, Simple Shoes and Teva. They were all
incredibly interested and sent product. Skechers is in Los Angeles,
so they sent a booth and someone to set it up. We [also] rented
booths and displays and designed the rest of the set and graphics
in-house.”
What was the biggest challenge?
“Making it believable. The whole thing was drafted to scale before we
set foot in the room, [and] we had to [use] a lot of smoke and mirrors to make the show look like it was on a grand scale.”
Any other big shoe-related sets on the horizon?
“I’ve only seen three or four episodes down the road, and there’s
nothing on this scale. We’re in the throes of the Thanksgiving show,
so I’ve got turkeys lined up around the studio back lot.”
)13LQGG
Design Diva
Mariah Carey has more to worry about than
becoming a mother. The songstress, who is
launching a footwear line with HSN this month,
is trying to make room for her ever-growing
shoe collection. Carey dished to Insider that her
closets in New York and Los Angeles, which have
been showcased on MTV’s “Cribs,” are filled with
her most treasured pairs (including a variety of
YSL, Chanel and Christian Louboutin heels), displayed on glass shelves, while everything else is
organized by color and style. “I definitely save my
favorites,” she said. But the mother-to-be is trying to make some changes,
welcoming more casual
styles to her mix of towering stilettos and platform
pumps, per hubby Nick
Cannon’s suggestion. “My
husband brought me all
these flats the other day,
which were gorgeous, but
kind of not comfortable
for me,” she said. “I can
tolerate a high-heel shoe for hours on end.” And
no matter what’s on her feet, Carey (above with
Cannon) said welcoming a new member to the
family won’t slow her down at all. “It makes me
really want [to design] a maternity line.”
the runway all season are the same looks you’ll
find on our shelves,” he said.
Holding Court
When it comes to shoes, Vogue contributing editor André Leon Talley has one cardinal rule: Never
play Cinderella’s stepsister, especially when it
involves Manolo Blahnik. “It has to fit, or you have
to put it back,” Talley advised during the designer’s invite-only sample sale in New York last week.
“You’re not here to buy shoes you can’t wear. This
is investment shopping.” Talley, clad in a Prada
jacket and an animal-print blanket, was in town to
dole out footwear advice to women who could not
decide between, say, leopard-print and candypink slingbacks. A scrunched nose was a sign of
disapproval. “I try to be very honest and say if a
shoe doesn’t look flattering on a foot. Women love
opinions.” Talley loved sharing tips so much that
his master of ceremonies role at the sale
could become a recurring gig, even if he has
to take a red-eye flight
from California. “I love
Manolo. He’s king,”
Talley said, noting that
the event was worth
the 9 a.m. call time. “We’ve been friends forever.”
Walk This Way
Foot Work
Iman and Isaac Mizrahi are gearing up for a few
catwalk battles on “The Fashion Show: Ultimate
Collection” this season, and retailer Robert
Yeganeh is getting in on the action. The Love
My Shoes owner has been tapped by producers of the Bravo reality show, which pits two
teams against each other in a runway design
competition, to provide footwear for models.
“Whatever the look, shoes help
pull it together,” said Yeganeh, who
has provided styles from Chinese
Laundry, Jessica Simpson, Steve
Madden, Charles David and Zigi
New York to complement the
aspiring designers’ looks. But,
Yeganeh admitted, he has his own
reasons for helping the show,
which debuted its second season
last week. He’s hoping his store’s
indirect cameo could be a boon
to business. “What you see on
While he’s best known as the editor of the New
York Times’ legendary crossword puzzles, Will
Shortz is also a fixture on the table tennis scene.
He plays most nights and is opening a ping-pong
club in his hometown of Pleasantville, N.Y., so
it wasn’t much of a surprise last Wednesday to
see Shortz dressed in head-to-toe athletic gear
— including table tennis-specific kicks — for a
ping-pong tournament to benefit youth nonprofit
826NYC. “[My shoes] have thin soles, so you can
stay close to the floor, but they give you good
support. They’re super breathable,” Shortz said of
his Joola sneakers. “A lot of [athletic] shoes have
higher heels for running, but these have fairly
thin heels.” Unfortunately for Shortz, the sneakers weren’t enough to defeat comedian Judah
Friedlander, another table tennis fiend who favors
cushy Nike crosstrainers for competition. “I could
not handle his serve!” Shortz lamented after their
final match. — With contributions from Jennifer
Ernst Beaudry, Lauren DiLello and Michelle Tay
30
WALK
THE
WALK
Power Up Your Brand’s Position in the
Wellness/Toning Category
THE WELLNESS/TONING ISSUE
Issue Date:
Close Date:
January 10, 2011
December 29, 2010
For more information on advertising, contact Sandi Mines, associate publisher, at 212-630-4872, or your FN salesperson.
<< SHOP TALK
6
FN MAY 29, 2006 NEWS
FN NOVEMBER
15, 2010
BREAKING
BREAKING
NEWS
Sergio Rossi Debuts New Flagship
Sergio Rossi last week reopened its
Rome location with an 810-sq.-ft. flagship concept. According to President
Christophe Mélard, half the company’s 80 stores will undergo a makeover during the next three years. “We
started with Rome because we want
to communicate that Sergio Rossi is
an Italian brand and convey the value
of this,” he said. “A store is a powerful
tool.” The new shop features an 18th
century stucco façade and is divided
into two sections: a bright, chic area
visible from the street, and a darker,
more hidden section with a boudoir
feel. In early 2011, the label, which is
owned by PPR’s Gucci Group division,
will open two stores in China, in Harbin and Chongqing. — Luisa Zargani
City Sports Opening Shop
In Georgetown Area
In December, City Sports will add its fourth
Washington, D.C., location: a 10,400-sq.-ft.
flagship store in the Georgetown neighborhood. The new two-story store, built in a historical building, features exposed brick and
metal elements, with separate rooms for
unique merchandising opportunities. “[The
space] allows
us to do these
g r eat pro d uct stories in
these rooms,
like men’s running and training in one specific room, or a
really strong women’s department,” said EVP
of merchandising Michael Mosca. “Footwear
is in the back of the store. You can see it from
anywhere you are in the store. Even if you’re
on the second floor, you can look down and
see the footwear floor.” The new shop brings
City Sports’ total portfolio to 18 locations.
Dr. Martens Bows First
Flagship in New York
Dr. Martens recently celebrated its 50th anniversary by opening its first flagship store in
Manhattan, at 148 Spring St. The store’s décor
features raw, unfinished surfaces meant
to capture the feel of the brand’s working-
class roots in industrial Northamptonshire,
England. Executives hope the Soho location
will attract
even more
attention to
the brand
and not pilfer
sales from its
New York-area
retail partners. “[We] truly believe the added
exposure from the new retail store can and
will benefit all our partners,” said COO Mike
Vincent. “One of the advantages of Dr. Martens’ product selection is we have a very
unique, distinctive look that fits well into a
variety of retail store product mixes, from
exclusive boutiques to department stores
and major independents.”
Nike Unveils Revamped
London Niketown
Nike last week reopened its flagship in London’s Oxford
Circus after
an extensive
redesign. The
42,000-sq.ft. store is the
first in a series
of reopenings across the U.K. Plans are also
under way to launch a multi-category store
in Glasgow, Scotland, in 2011, similar to the
concept that debuted in August at Santa Monica Place mall in Santa Monica, Calif.
<< By Wayne Niemi Send retail news to [email protected]
)13LQGG
Highline United Ups
Expansion Strategy
By MARCIE YOUNG
NEW YORK — Highline United is taking
things up a notch.
Two years after opening shop on Manhattan’s west side, the footwear firm has
quietly assembled a roster of well-known
contemporary brands, ventured into retail
and built up its distribution. Now, executives are setting up for a growth spurt.
With a portfolio that includes joint ventures with United Nude, Jean-Michel Cazabat and Ash and licensing agreements
with Tracy Reese and Miss Sixty, the
firm is also bolstering its roster of fully
owned lines. For spring ’11, Highline is
seeking to capture a broader audience by
repositioning the Luxury Rebel line and
launching Gun Metal, both of which
retail for $100 to $225.
“The timing was right,”
said Highline President
Matt Joyce. “We watch
wholesale, but we’re
also watching what’s
happening at retail.
[There’s a need for]
the disposable price
point. [That customer]
may not be able to spend
$240 for a pair of shoes, but she
can afford $99.”
Gun Metal, which is soft launching with
about 25 styles, will be broadened next fall
with about 90 looks, from flats to tall boots,
and will be shopped broadly to retailers
including Lord & Taylor and Macy’s.
Luxury Rebel, meanwhile, originally
came to market in fall ’09 as a takedown
of Jean-Michel Cazabat’s core line. Highline is now focused on transforming the
brand into an independent label encompassing casual flats, dress styles, thighhigh boots and denim-friendly looks.
“It’s a complete standalone brand, and
we think this could be really big,” said
Highline VP of sales Scott Kaminsky.
The restructured line is launching with
a handful of retailers for spring, with a
broader marketing and sales effort to
come in fall ’11. Luxury Rebel shops are
also on the wish list, and if early expecta-
tions are met, branded doors could open
as early as spring ’12, Joyce said.
Highline also has worked to expand
other brands on its roster. Jean-Michel
Cazabat has moved his entire namesake
collection into Highline’s showroom,
allowing the team there to oversee sales,
press and general business, while he
focuses on the design.
“It’s been a great marriage. I have the
right financing and all the instruments
to grow and take it to the next level,”
Cazabat said.
The partnership with Highline, which
produces mainly out of China, has
allowed the designer to drop price points
about 30 percent and helped Cazabat
make in-roads in Russia and
expand across France and Italy.
Highline, which unveiled a United Nude store in Soho earlier this
year, also aims to open a JeanMichel Cazabat door on Bleecker
Street in the West Village
Styles from
Ash Kids
and bow an Ash shop in
(above) and
Soho for early 2011.
Plenty by
Ash, which Highline partTracy Reese.
nered with for spring ’09,
has grown its account list to include
Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue and is
broadening its reach. E-commerce rolled
out in August, and children’s shoes and
a full collection of men’s footwear are
launching this spring.
The Tracy Reese brand also has been
bolstered by the fall ’10 launch of Plenty by
Tracy Reese, which signed 80 accounts in
its first season and is set to nearly double
that number for spring ’11. The diffusion
line retails for $100 to $200, while the
core label is priced from $225 to $275.
“It’s been a wonderful entry point to
the Tracy Reese line, and more customers can be part of the brand,” said Tracy
Reese CEO Barry Miguel.
With all of the new initiatives, Highline
is quickly outgrowing its 7,600-sq.-ft.
showroom. Joyce, who has doubled his
staff, has leased additional space in the
firm’s building to make way for a design
studio, press office and sales offices.
30
7
Brands Make Splash With Pop-Ups
By ERIN E. CLACK
NEW YORK — It’s no secret that pop-up shops are hot. As the
format continues to gain steam, more brands are seeing it as
a chance to stand out — and not just to sell shoes.
These temporary shops offer an opportunity to generate
buzz for a brand, test the viability of operating retail stores
and connect with consumers in a more intimate way — and
they’re much less risky than traditional stores, which require
firms to be locked into a lease.
With their now-you-see-it, now-you-don’t allure, pop-up
“We’ll see how things evolve,” he said, “but so far, it’s been very
positive for our brand. The store is exceeding expectations.”
Falling in love with a space and wanting to stay is not
uncommon with pop-up ventures, said Christina Norsig,
founder and CEO of Pop-up Insider, a national online exchange
that connects retailers with landlords seeking to lease space
on a short-term basis. “I’ve seen many examples of companies that intend to stay for only a couple of weeks and then
discover it’s such a phenomenal location that they go ahead
and negotiate a long-term lease,” she said.
For online retailer Piperlime, its recent pop-up in New York’s
Soho neighborhood was a
chance to bring its brand
experience to life in a brickand-mortar format. “It was
the first time that
Clockwise from above: Manolo Blahnik’s temporary space
at Liberty of London; the Puma Social Club in Los Angeles;
Piperlime’s recent pop-up shop in Soho.
shops have been a bright spot in a dismal retail environment. And the glut of available real estate due to the stagnant economy has meant short-term leases for prime storefronts are much easier to come by. Florsheim, Piperlime,
Manolo Blahnik and Frye are just a few of the footwear companies that have recently jumped on the bandwagon.
“The pop-up phenomenon has gone mainstream, and we’re
seeing a diverse and broad set of companies embracing the
format,” said Janet Hoffman, managing director of Accenture’s retail practice. “[Everyone is] seeking new ways to grab
consumers’ attention and reignite their desire to spend.”
Florsheim opened a pop-up store in September in New York’s
Soho neighborhood to showcase newer brand initiatives such
as its Florsheim by Duckie Brown collaboration and new midpriced Florsheim Limited label.
According to John Florsheim, president and COO of parent
firm Weyco Group Inc., the success of the venture already has
the company thinking about pop-ups in other cities. The Soho
shop, meanwhile, is slated to remain open through February,
but Florsheim said the brand isn’t ruling out staying in the
space permanently.
)13LQGG
Piperlime [was] available in a three-dimensional environment where customers could touch and feel the product,” said
Piperlime GM Jennifer Gosselin of the shop, which was open
for 25 days in September and featured an edited assortment
of apparel, footwear and accessories.
Madison Riley, managing director of consulting firm Kurt
Salmon Associates, said the desire to explore beyond the
bounds of the Internet is a natural progression for e-tailers, and
pop-ups are a way to do that. “Online retailers are always wondering whether [brick-and-mortar stores] can be a long-term
profit driver for them,” he said. “We’ll see more of this.”
While many footwear players are leasing freestanding space
for their pop-ups, others are opting to set up shop inside another
retailer’s store, creating the feel of an intimate trunk show. Boot
maker Frye partnered with one of its biggest Canadian accounts,
Ron White, to run a three-week-long pop-up last month at the
retailer’s flagship in Toronto’s Manulife Centre.
“Ron White already does very well with the Frye brand and has
a loyal customer following,” said Michael Petry, Frye’s design
director. “The pop-up allowed us to boost our brand profile in
eastern Canada while giving Ron a chance to reward his best
customers, as well as capture new customers.”
The pop-up also was an opportunity for Frye, which does not
yet have its own retail stores, to tell its entire brand story with
a full product assortment. “Normally, Ron’s store would show
about 80 Frye styles, but for a three-week period, he had 180
styles, including a few limited-edition items and special-order
boots,” Petry said.
Like Frye, high-end designer Manolo Blahnik chose another
store, Liberty of London’s Great Marlborough Street flagship,
as the site of his first pop-up, which bowed in September.
Slated to remain open until Christmas, the garden-inspired
“World of Manolo” houses a selection of Blahnik’s original shoe designs, along with nine limited-edition styles using a dozen prints that Blahnik
pulled from Liberty’s archives. The designer
also created new shoe-inspired prints that are
featured on other items, including silk scarves,
stationery and umbrellas.
Kristina Blahnik, the designer’s niece and collaborator, said Liberty was the right fit because of
the type of customers it attracts.
“[The store] just feels young, and that’s what we
want to project, that Manolo Blahnik is a youthful
brand,” she said.
The special, limited-edition aspect of “World of
Manolo” is a prime example of what Accenture’s Hoffman
called the “buy it now or never” appeal of pop-ups. “The temporary nature of these stores and the limited stock create a real
sense of excitement and urgency to buy,” she said.
The entertainment factor is another significant part of popups’ popularity. Companies are coming up with increasingly
creative ways for consumers to experience and interact with
their favorite brands beyond what is typically possible in a
permanent store.
Puma has taken the idea to heart in a big way with its popups in Boston, New York and now Los Angeles. The Puma
Social Club LA, which ran Oct. 13-28, combined retail with a
nightlife venue, complete with a bar, lounge area, live music
and retro social sports, such as darts, ping-pong and foosball.
Puma’s elaborate events are a testament to how evolved
the pop-up concept has become, as brands up the stakes to
garner even bigger buzz.
Still, David Wolfe, creative director of New York-based trend
forecasting firm The Doneger Group, warned that companies
need to be careful not to take the staging of their shops too far.
“I remember some of the early Target ones in New York and
how exciting they were because they seemed so temporary,”
he said. “If you pop something up that looks too planned or
like an established venue, then you’ve lost the point.”
30
FIR
S
TE
E HTHE
THE
T UOUTDOOR
OUTDOOR
RETAILER
ISSUE
VE
R
Be a part of the first FN issue with a
cover-to-cover focus on outdoor footwear
• In-depth preview of the OR Show
• Spotlight on leading outdoor retailers
• Brand profiles
• Outdoor footwear fashion
• Trends to watch
• Things to see from the show floor
OUTDOOR RETAILER ISSUE
Issue Date:
Close Date:
January 17, 2011
January 6, 2011
For more information on advertising, contact Sandi Mines, associate publisher, at 212-630-4872, or your FN salesperson.
Beyond Basic
Effortless chic is the name of the game for men this spring, as designers dress
up core looks with colorful suedes, unique details and even slight wedges.
Market Editor: Jocelyn Anderson Fashion Editor: Regina Smith Popp Fashion Assistant: Lauren DiLello Groomer: Ryan Taniguchi/Kate Ryan Inc. Model: Vinicius/Red
Photographed by Jayme Thornton.
FLORSHEIM BY DUCKIE
BROWN’s woven lace-up
moccasins. Jacket and watch
by Tommy Hilfiger, shirt by
Hilfiger Collection, khakis by
Ermenegildo Zegna.
FN1115P09-15.indd 9
11/10/10 5:37 PM
11102010173949
APPROVED WITH ERRORS
Beyond Basic
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA’s crimson
suede driving mocs. Sweater by
Topman, shirt by Lacoste, jeans by
Tween, belt by Helm Handmade,
sunglasses by Seven for All Mankind,
watch by Tommy Hilfiger.
FN1115P09-15.indd 10
11/10/10 6:00 PM
11102010180205
BALLY’s woven leather oxfords.
Jacket by Tween, shirt by Seven
for All Mankind, pants by Topman,
belt and watch by Tommy Hilfiger,
sunglasses by Simon Spurr.
FN1115P09-15.indd 11
11/10/10 6:00 PM
11102010180205
Beyond Basic
HARRYS OF LONDON’s blue suede chukkas.
Sweater by Burberry Prorsum, jeans and
belt by Diesel, sunglasses by Seven for All
Mankind, watch by Tommy Hilfiger.
FN1115P09-15.indd 12
11/10/10 5:38 PM
11102010173934
APPROVED WITH ERRORS
FN1115P09-15.indd 13
11/10/10 5:38 PM
11102010173934
APPROVED WITH ERRORS
Beyond Basic
JOHN VARVATOS’ suede lace-up chukkas.
Jacket by Burberry Brit, shirt by Tween,
pants and watch by Tommy Hilfiger,
sunglasses by Seven for All Mankind.
FN1115P09-15B.indd 14
11/10/10 6:14 PM
11102010181606
APPROVED WITH ERRORS
GRENSON’s two-tone suede oxfords.
Jacket by Burberry Brit, shirt by Simon
Spurr, jeans by Diesel, belt by Helm
Handmade, sunglasses by DSquared,
watch by Tommy Hilfiger, bag by
Ermenegildo Zegna.
FN1115P09-15.indd 15
11/10/10 5:38 PM
11102010173934
APPROVED WITH ERRORS
16
MEN’S: 10 QUESTIONS
FN NOVEMBER 15, 2010
Mod Men
Women’s designers Edmundo Castillo and Manuele Bianchi are eyeing men’s closets for a new line. << By Jocelyn Anderson
Clockwise from
top left: Manuele
Bianchi; Edmundo
Castillo; Casbia
styles for spring.
Edmundo Castillo
and Manuele
Bianchi think
they know what
shoes men need in
their closets.
The designers, who worked together at Donna Karan 20
years ago, have ventured into men’s footwear with a line
that aims to cover every man’s needs.
“This is a collection that was born from personal [necessity],” said Castillo, who also designs for Santoni and is
relaunching his namesake line in February. “And we are
trying to make [men] discover a new world in shoes that
they already wear — nothing too weird, but new materials
and fresh looks.”
Enter Casbia. The collection contains 10 styles, including
casuals, dress shoes, moccasins, sandals and sneakers. The
line, which debuted for fall ’10, is made in Italy and costs
about $500 (up to $1,200 for boots).
So far, Casbia has been picked up by Saks Fifth Avenue
in New York, Los Angeles and Washington, D.C.; Antonia
Man in Milan; and the United Arrows men’s store in Tokyo’s
Harajuku neighborhood.
Here, the duo discusses entering the men’s arena, moving
beyond their sneaker obsession and balancing many projects.
)13LQGG
1. You both are big sneaker buffs, so why
did you go beyond casuals with Casbia?
EC: I turned 40, first of all. I have been wearing
sneakers for years and have a collection of 500
pairs. But I started feeling like it was time [to
branch out]. There were some things [that made
me] feel like I was trying too hard all of a sudden.
MB: We have this sickness for sneakers, but at a
certain point, you feel like it’s time to move to the next
step. I still love sneakers. I just wear them less often.
6. How does the partnership work?
MB: We both do everything, 50/50. We are quite
the same. We trust each other, so sometimes I
leave it to Edmundo and sometimes he leaves it to
me. I know that’s hard to believe, but we’ve known
each other for more than 20 years.
EC: The fine-tuning at the end is where we are
critical with each other. There are times when I say,
“No, it should be like this.” And he says [the same].
But I trust Manuele 100 percent.
2. Was it difficult to design for men?
EC: It was different. When I design women’s shoes,
I try to give them foot candy. In the case of men’s, I
approached it in a more controlled, practical way. Men
shop [differently] when it comes to shoes. I learned
that [working] at the To Boot store when I first came
to New York [in 1987]. The shoes had style and quality, but they weren’t crazy fashion shoes.
7. Does a background in women’s
product help the design process?
MB: It helps because shoes are always shoes.
And I have an approach to my work that is more
architectural. It should carry you around and be
beautiful. That doesn’t change a lot. Of course, in
women’s you can do whatever you want, and in
men’s you can’t do everything.
3. How much has changed in men’s
shoes since then?
EC: Well, I lasted only three months in that store. I
was not into how picky men were when it came to
buying shoes. I understood immediately that it wasn’t
as much fun to work with men as it was to work with
women. But it was an experience that I now look back
on and think, “It served a purpose.”
8. Edmundo, is it difficult to balance
your time with Santoni, the relaunch of
your namesake brand and Casbia?
EC: It is. The women’s brand is coming out for
February. And, yeah, it is difficult. It just takes reorganizing and staying focused. I also do Castañer
in Spain, so I divide my time in three countries. But
I’m used to the traveling. Since the day I was hired
by Donna Karan in 1989, I haven’t stopped traveling. That part for me is natural.
4. What challenges did you face getting started?
MB: With this whole economic mess that has happened, now [buyers] have become really sensitive
about prices. So the biggest challenge now is to
achieve the best for less. This is difficult because
when you are trying to make a beautiful product,
beautiful means expensive. A beautiful men’s shoe
that is well made and costs 800 euros is realistic.
But now, you can’t do it anymore because 800
euros is still too much.
5. Is price a concern for you?
EC: We are thinking about that going forward, but
not [in order to] come down to $300 shoes. It’s only
to become more conscious about the problems that
we are facing. It’s the reality in the market, especially
in the U.S., with the euro and the exchange rates.
MB: The main focus is to have a beautiful product.
Now the goal is to make it in the right price range.
It’s hard because we have good prices. Now we are
trying to achieve this kind of “best for less.”
9. What can you tell us about the relaunch of your women’s brand?
EC: I’m first and foremost excited because I’m
able to express 100 percent of my philosophy when
it comes to designing women’s shoes. You get to a
point when you have a point of view and you aren’t
able to express it; you miss it. ... [It will be] sold at
Saks Fifth Avenue and a few other smaller stores
around the country. The spring collection starts at
$395 with some espadrilles, and then we go up to
$1,650 with more fashion shoes.
10. What are your goals for Casbia in
the long term?
EC: Manuele and I are lucky that we can grow Casbia slowly. We are not trying to redesign or change
the strategy because we need to make money or
cover a lot of expenses. This is a new baby that’s
going to grow little by little. We will observe and adjust, but stay true to what we believe it should be.
30
MEN’S: STREET TALK
17
Men at Work
New York men are willing to spend a little more on suit-friendly shoes they can wear on the job. << By Elizabeth Denton
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
The high-end
3. Miguel Storla
6. Edward Adams
1.Tinku Chondhury
Hometown: New York City
How much is too much for a pair of shoes? “I wouldn’t
spend more than $200.”
What’s worth the money? “I would spend more on work
shoes as long as they are durable.”
Recession factor: “I’m spending about the same now.
Nothing has really changed.”
Favorite brand: Johnston & Murphy
Hometown: New York City
How much is too much for a pair of shoes? “I can’t spend
more than $500 on shoes.”
What’s worth the money? “I spend more money on dress
shoes. They are more important than sneakers.”
Recession factor: “I’m spending less money now [because of the economy]. I’m not willing to spend as much
at the moment.”
Favorite brand: Stacy Adams
men’s shoe market may be thriving, but consumers are still scrutinizing every purchase.
Footwear News hit the streets of midtown Manhattan last
week to talk to professionals about what they look for in
dress shoes. Men are sticking to brands they know and
trust — and, not surprising, durability and comfort top
their lists.
Hometown: Queens, N.Y.
How much is too much for shoes? “I wouldn’t spend more
then $500. And I’d have to get permission from
my wife.”
What’s worth the money? “Shoes that are good quality
and last a long time. They have to be a good value.”
Recession factor: “I’m spending less because I’m married
now and have a kid and a mortgage payment. I have to be
more practical.”
Favorite brands: Tod’s, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo
4. A.J. Spiros
Hometown: New York City
How much is too much for a pair of shoes? “$250 is the
most I would spend on shoes. It’s really hard to tell the
difference from the more expensive ones.”
What’s worth the money? “I would spend more money on
dress shoes that are stylish and that I can wear to work.”
Recession factor: “I’m spending more on shoes than before
because I’m getting older and want to look professional.”
Favorite brand: Johnston & Murphy
FN Photos by ROBERT MITRA.
2. Fred Emil
Hometown: Brooklyn, N.Y.
How much is too much for a pair of shoes? “$100 is all I
would spend now.”
What’s worth the money? “I would spend more on a dress
shoe that is comfortable. Style isn’t as important.”
Recession factor: “I’m spending less because of the
economy, but also because [I’m not finding] as good quality as I used to.”
Favorite brands: Johnston & Murphy, Giorgio Brutini
7. Nick Iacoviello
Hometown: Hoboken, N.J.
How much is too much for a pair of shoes? “$180 is the
most I would spend. Maybe in 10 years I will be able to
spend more.”
What’s worth the money? “I spend more on work shoes
because I wear them more often than casual shoes.”
Recession factor: “Prices have gone up, but I’m buying
more shoes because, luckily, I’m making more money.”
Favorite brands: Johnston & Murphy, Florsheim
5. Jim Peters
Hometown: Milwaukee
How much is too much for a pair of shoes? “$500 is my
limit for shoes.”
What’s worth the money? “They have to be good quality
shoes and be convenient [to purchase].”
Recession factor: “I’m spending the same as I always
have. [The economy] is not a factor.”
Favorite brand: Allen Edmonds
FN1115P17.indd 17
8. Jeff Baumkirchner
Hometown: Westchester, N.Y.
How much is too much for a pair of shoes? “My price
range is $150 to $200.”
What’s worth the money? “I spend more on work shoes.”
Recession factor: “Shoes are more expensive now, but I’m
paying the same amount.”
Favorite brands: Cole Haan, Allen Edmonds
11/10/10 5:31 PM
11102010173217
18
MEN’S: THEY ARE WEARING
FN NOVEMBER 15, 2010
London Life
While boots and moccasins are gaining popularity among men these
days, sneakers still rule the streets in London. Footwear News went
sole searching there recently and turned up young consumers in
athletic looks by core players such as Nike, Adidas and New Balance,
while a handful of men stuck out in colorful boat shoes and militaryinspired boots — all perfect for any denim look.
FN Photos by MICHELE KALISH.
FN1115P18.indd 18
11/10/10 5:34 PM
11102010173533
SUSTAINABILITY
19
A Simple Plan
Simple is celebrating its 20th anniversary with a fresh brand message and big growth plans. << By Jennifer Ernst Beaudry
After 20 years in business, Simple Shoes is charting a new course.
Known for its leadership in the sustainable footwear business, the brand, a division of
Goleta, Calif.-based Deckers Outdoor Corp., is entering 2011 with this agenda: Keep the
green features, but lose the eco-only categorization.
By emphasizing Simple’s casual sneaker roots, Teva and Simple President Pete Worley
wants to position the brand to compete with
players such as Vans and Converse.
“Our challenge is to broaden that ecofriendly message and make it more palatable
to a broader audience, and create a brand
message that is more welcoming, not shouting, ‘You’re a bad person if you don’t wear
eco-friendly shoes,’” Worley said.
Simple was placed under Worley’s direction in January (previously it was part of
the Ugg division). He said the brand had lost
sight of its identity. “The original roots of the
brand — and the reason it’s called Simple
Shoes — was that it was all about the simple
life, of which environmental consciousness
was a very important element,” he said. “But
over the years, that eco story took over and
became the entire platform, and it even took
on a bit of a preachy tone, if you will.”
Worley said market research conducted early this year showed that the brand message
was “too serious” for most consumers. “We
believe that has held Simple back and caused
it to be less approachable than it should be,”
he said. “[Simple’s] high-water mark, sometime in the late 1990s, was just north of
$30 million. Since then the brand
has lived in the $15-to-$25 million range in global sales. That’s
barely scratching the surface, so
there’s huge potential out there.”
Now he wants to more than
double the business to $50
million to $60 million
in the next few years.
Jonathon Grassi, an
analyst at Longbow
Research, noted that
increased competition within
the sneaker market will pose a
challenge, but there is opportunity as well. “At this point, Simple has some of
the best opportunity [of the Deckers brands] to see stronger growth,” he said.
“[Sneakers are part of] a broader market, with greater revenue potential.”
The spring ’11 product line will be stripped down to focus more on core sneaker styles,
but Worley said there are no plans to change or dumb down the green content of the
)13LQGG
shoes. “None of our operating principles and use of materials are changing,” he said of
the line, which has been known to incorporate low-impact leathers, recycled materials
and midsoles and outsoles using EcoPure, a compound that allows shoes to break down
in landfills in a fraction of the normal time.
“But we may be putting more emphasis on styling and things such as color and design,” Worley said. And in future seasons,
he added, Simple may introduce shoe lines
that contain some sustainable elements
without being as fully built-out as past
offerings.
At Kicks Sole Provider in Los Angeles,
owner Ygal Aiche said he’s impressed
with the look of the product so far. “There
are definitely more people attracted by
the look of the shoes, but [eco-friendly
features] are still a big part of it. You have
the old customer who looks for the [green
aspects] and the comfort, and the new
customer who is curious about the looks.”
To further position Simple as an indie
favorite, Deckers brought on Will Pennartz
as marketing manager in August. Pennartz, whose background includes not
only a stint at surf-culture brand Roxy but
ownership in the Laguna Beach, Calif., art
showcase Surf Gallery, said his focus will
be on reaching out to creative types.
“A big part of next year will be leveraging
relationships with artists and musicians
and working with them to support
From top: Teva and
the Simple brand,” Pennartz said.
Simple global marketing director Joel Heath
That means hosting events across
(left) and Simple marthe country and in the brand’s New
keting manager Will
York showroom, which last month
Pennartz; spring ’11
core sneaker looks.
was rechristened as an art gallery
space. “It’s really important to support creative projects — art shows, film fests — that’s
where I want to be. The story isn’t much different than
what we have been telling for Simple. We still create
sustainable shoes; we just want to bring that message to
a larger group of people.”
In January, the company plans to unveil a logo that will better broadcast
Simple’s revamp.
In spite of all the changes at Simple, retailer Stacey Matney, co-owner of sustainably focused Pie Footwear in Portland, Ore., said she’s not concerned that Simple’s
move toward a less eco-focused message will affect sales or cause it to lose credibility. But, she added, the green message should be communicated in some way.
“Over time, the brands that are really committed to [sustainability] are the ones that
don’t need to speak about it as much,” she said. “I can understand that moving past that
can be good for the brand.”
30
20
WOMEN’S: TREND
FN NOVEMBER 15, 2010
Leather crisscross-strap sandal
by TRUE RELIGION
JEROME C. ROUSSEAU’s multistrap
leather-and-canvas sandal
Suede, braided-strap
sandal from MAURIE & EVE
ELIZABETH & JAMES’ leather
sandal with braided toe strap
Pining for Cones
Wooden cone-shaped heels with earth-tone uppers are making strides this spring,
offering a cool alternative to sky-high stilettos and platform wedges.
COCLICO’s leather-and-fabric
Woven leather lace-up
bootie from MEA SHADOW
lace-up bootie
Photographed by JOHN AQUINO, THOMAS IANNACCONE and ROBERT MITRA.
FN1115P20.indd 20
11/10/10 3:29 PM
11102010153102
BREAKING NEWS
21
Retailers Upbeat on Adidas Prospects in U.S.
Continued from page 2
in basketball, running and other categories.
“We have a number of significant opportunities in running
with [Adidas’] lightweight Clima [product], and in basketball
with the new Derrick Rose and Dwight Howard shoes,” said
Ken Hicks, president and CEO of Foot Locker Inc. “They are
making a committed effort to grow in the U.S., and we’re going to be a part of that.”
City Sports also sees the running business growing. “Running has performed extremely well [this year], but if we look
at our Adidas wall next year compared with five years ago,
it’s going to be a world of difference,” said
running buyer Doug Smiley. “That’s really going to be a brand-new Adidas.”
SportsOneSource’s Powell is also
bullish on that category. “The opportunity really lies in running,
where they’ve made a strong statement in the past.” He also sees potential
in the Sportstyle portion of the business.
“The vault they have of heritage product is
MAY
FN 29, 2006
so amazing. I see a lot of upside on the fashion side.”
That’s an area that Nilsson is focused on as well. “We need
to bridge the gap to the future on the Originals side,” he said,
listing Mega, Originals by Originals collaborations and even
skate product as drivers.
The company also has room for growth with SLVR,
the new Neo line and Y-3, he said. “If you look at Y-3,
[it has] introduced us to conNBA star Derrick
Rose with his
sumers who maybe weren’t
signature AdiZero
interested in our brand.
Rose shoe, released
[Today], they are coming in
last month.
and buying Originals, or they
are buying performance when they
are going out and playing sports.
[I like] the analogy of having many different doors
where you can enter into
the brand,” Nilsson said.
Supporting all the initiatives will be a global marketing campaign launching in
March that Nilsson said will touch on all aspects and categories of Adidas product.
Nilsson and Hainer declined to give specifics on the message, saying only that it would celebrate “one brand anthem”
and would be bigger and more aggressive than previous
efforts. “It will really connect our style side with our sports
performance side, telling an overarching message in a very
inspiring way,” Nilsson said. “It will be in the broad media, but
we’ll also bring that down to the retailer level, and that’s when
it will be driven more toward certain products. It’s a lot more a
call to arms, and it will be the biggest investment we’ve made
in the U.S. marketplace in the last 10 years.”
Hainer added that the “Slim Chin” ads with Rose and Howard, released last month, would be a good indication of
the brand’s direction. “According to our strategy to win the
hearts and minds of high-school kids, we will also talk the
language of the high-school kid, which will be a much more
aggressive one,” he said.
Overall, Hainer said, he sees good things ahead. “We have
an excellent roadmap now. We know what to do and we have
the right people around to execute the plan.”
career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com.
COVER For more
STOR
BREAKING
www.bosandco.com
[email protected]
905-335-9951
NAME BRAND
ATHLETIC/CASUAL
CLOSE-OUTS
1-800-322-6819
Since 1968
COLOR BROCHURES
CASH BUYERS
of entire stores and closeouts
of all kinds.
E&H Distributors
1327 Liberty Avenue
Hillside, NJ 07205
(973) 926-1188
Fax 973-923-1511
email: [email protected]
Satab Rubans, the largest ribbon
manufacturer in Europe, is looking for SALES AGENTS in the
following areas:
ATTENTION CLASSIFIED ADVERTISERS
• Chicago and Environs
• No. CA, Oregon, Washington
• Florida and the Carribean basin
• Texas
• New England
Due to the Thanksgiving Day Holiday, the 11/29 issue of FN will
close on TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 23rd at 12noon.
Thank you for your cooperation
Please contact Arthur Klein at
SATAB AMERICA
[email protected]
www.brownshoe.com
314-854-4000
FAIRCHILD CLASSIFIED IS NOW SELF SERVICE!
To place a print ad, go to www.fairchildclassified.com
)13LQGG
For online-only recruitment ads, go to wwdcareers.com
30
TheFNList
Produced by JENNIE BELL.
Big Senders: Leading Global
Footwear Exporters to U.S.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
COUNTRY
PAIRS (YTD 8/2010)
After a precipitous drop in footwear shipments to the States
last year during the worst of the recession, most of the
overseas providers are now showing an uptick. Altogether,
the U.S. imported 1.67 billion pairs of shoes in the first eight
months of 2010, worth roughly $13.38 billion. That compares
with 1.44 billion pairs, worth $11.75 billion, in the same period
a year ago. Here, countries ranked by pairs shipped.
CHANGE FROM 2009
% OF TOTAL
China
1.45 billion
17%
87%
In spite of currency uncertainty in China, footwear shipments from that country rebounded post-recession, growing 17 percent as of August. And
China is holding tight to its distant lead in the market, providing 87 percent of the shoes purchased in the U.S.
Vietnam
94 million
7%
5.6%
The manufacturing story in Vietnam continues to improve, as more companies look for facilities outside China. The country’s U.S. imports have
risen 7 percent, and the value of its product increased nearly 6 percent, to $11.20 per pair.
Indonesia
34.9 million
22%
2.1%
Footwear executives have said that sourcing costs in Indonesia are lower than in both China and Vietnam, and those favorable business conditions
are having an effect: U.S. imports from Indonesia jumped 22 percent to 34.9 million shoes, worth roughly $397.1 million.
Brazil
26.3 million
14%
1.6%
While Brazil has a strong shoemaking heritage, it has struggled to compete on pricing with China and other countries; however, like many nations,
its U.S. shipments grew by 14 percent, to 26.3 million pairs.
Italy
10.4 million
10%
0.6%
Italy remains the go-to destination for higher-end footwear, although it has lost ground to China in recent years. The value of Italy’s imports was
$56.80 per pair at the end of August, roughly eight times the value of product from China.
Mexico
9.7 million
39%
0.6%
Its close proximity to the U.S. and established infrastructure made Mexico an increasingly appealing manufacturing location. Year-to-date, its
shipments swelled 39 percent to 9.7 million pairs of shoes, worth about $167.2 million.
India
7.6 million
16%
0.5%
President Obama’s recent visit to India could signal good news for the footwear industry. While in the past the country has kept a cool distance from
the U.S., observers speculate relations are warming, which might aid negotiations over currency and trade issues.
Thailand
6.5 million
-33%
0.4%
While most countries saw shipments to the U.S. bounce back post-recession, imports from Thailand dropped 33 percent this year from 2009. Meanwhile, the value of its footwear has remained relatively steady, inching up 0.6 percent to $12.24 per pair.
Hong Kong
5.8 million
86%
0.3%
For the first time since 2006, Hong Kong has surpassed Taiwan in footwear shipments, thanks to an 86 percent surge in the first eight months of
this year compared with last year. Total shipments were 5.8 million pairs, worth $37 million.
Taiwan
4.9 million
-6%
0.3%
As of August, Taiwan had shipped $34.6 million worth of shoes to the U.S., down 12 percent from $39.5 million the same time last year. The biggest
declines were for protective footwear, leather product and women’s shoes.
Source: U.S. Department of Commerce, Office of Textiles and Apparel.
On the Cover: Photographed by JAYME THORNTON. Shirt by Burberry Brit, jeans by Diesel, belt by Helm Handmade, hat by Bailey of Hollywood, watch by Tommy Hilfiger.
FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
VOLUME 66, NO. 42. NOVEMBER 15, 2010. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published weekly (except for the first week in January, third week in February and the fourth weeks in May, August and December) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.
PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer;
Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian
addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre., Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6.
POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 15877, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5877. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FN, P.O. Box 15877, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5877,
call 800-360-1700, or visit www.subnow.com/fn. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Basic one-year subscription price: U.S. $59; Canadian/Mexico $145; foreign $245. Regular single-copy cost: $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine
is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all
unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FOOTWEAR NEWS, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permission requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax
requests to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or via e-mail at [email protected]. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com.
Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15877, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5877 or
call 800-360-1700. FOOTWEAR NEWS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR ANY DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS,
UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.
)13LQGG
30
www.ffany.org
D
We
-3
1
R
E
B
ECEM Friday
y – York Hotmels
a
d
s
d n e n New owroo
EXHIBITORS AT HILTON
1883 BY LUCCHESE
2 POD
A. MARINELLI
ACI INTERNATIONAL
AETREX
ALBERTO FELLINI
ALEGRIA
ALIPES
ALL BLACK
ANBESSA SHOE SHARE
ANN KRISTAL
ANNA ALMEIDA
ANNA CAPRI
ANTELOPE
APEPAZZA
AQUATALIA
BY MARVIN K.
AQUATHERM BY
SANTANA
ARCOPEDICO
ARDIENTE
ATHENA ALEXANDER
ATR
ATTILIO GIUSTI
LEOMBRUNI
ATTITUDES
AURELIO GARCIA
AUSIIE BOOTS
AUSTRALIA
AZURA
BALLASOX
BBUP
BE COMFORTABLE BY
BLONDO
BEACHFEET
BEARPAW
BEAUTY HEEL
BED:STU
BED:STU/ EVOLUTION
BERNIE MEV
BERRIES BY AETREX
BESTFIT
BEVERLY FELDMAN
BF COLECCION EUROPA
BLONDO
BLOSSOM
BLUE SUEDE SHOES
BODYWORKS
BOLARO
BRECKELLE’S
BRITISH KNIGHTS
BRIXTON
BROADWAY PLUS
BRONX
BRONX MEN’S
BRUNO VALENTI
BUMPER
FE
Hilto mber Sh
& Me
BUTTER
C LABEL
CALCE
CALLISTO OF
CALIFORNIA
CARIBBEAN SOUL
CARLOS BY CARLOS
SANTANA
CELESTE
CHARLES ALBERT
CHARLES BY CHARLES
DAVID
CHARLES DAVID
CHARLIE 1 HORSE
CHAUSSURES RÉGENCE
CHECKLIST
CHELSEA CREW
CHELSEA PARIS
CHEZ BY CHERYL
CHOCOLAT BLU
CHOOKA
CIAO BELLA
CITE
CITY SNAPPERS
CLEOPATRA
COCONUTS
CONTESA
CORDANI
CORSO COMO
COULEUR POURPRE
CROCS
DPN
DAN POST
DANA DAVIS
DANSKO
DBDK
DE BLOSSOM
DELICACY
DEMAND
DEMFON
DENALI
DESIGNS BY NANCY
KATZ
DIBA
DINGO
DIVA BY LUCCHESE
DIZZY
DIZZY SANDALS
DR. SCHOLL’S
DREAMS
DULCE
E & R GENERATION
EARTH
EARTHIES
EAST LION
EASTLAND
EASTLAND “MADE IN
MAINE”
EASTLAND “SNEAKER IN
DISGUISE”
ED HARDY
EL NATURALISTA
ELAINE TURNER
ELEGANT
ELIZABETH BRADY
ENCANTO
ENCORE
ENEKA COMFORT
BALLERINAS
ENIGMA
ENIGMA/ MORE
ER GENERATION
ERICA GIULIANI
ESPANOLA TOO
ESSENCE
ETHIOPIA FOOTWEAR
COLLECTIONS
EVERYBODY
FAHRENHEIT
FEMINI
FERGIE
FERRERA COUTURE
FIESSO
FINNIE & ASSOCIATES
FIRST SIGHT
FLEXX
FLEXX STUDIO
FLY FLOT
FOCUS ON FASHION
RETAIL
FOOTWEAR INSIGHT
FOOTWEAR PLUS
FOREVER
FOREVER LINK
FORNARINA
FRANCHESKA
FREDERIC’S
FRENCH SOLE
FRENCH SOLE
COMFORT
FRENCH SOLE FS/NY
FS/NY COMFORT
G.C. SHOES BY GOOD
CHOICE
GCM
GEE WAWA
GEMINI
GENERATION
GENTLE SOULS BY
KENNETH COLE
GIA
GIANNA MELIANI
GIVONA JOLIE
GLAGLA
GOLDEN WEST
GRAZIE
GROOVE
HEART-N-SOUL
HENRY FERRERA
HOLDEN
HOT GOSSIP
HOUSE OF HARLOW
1960
INYECTADOS Y
VULCANITADOS
ITALINA
J&L
J AND A
J. KUO
J.C. DOSSIER
J75 BY JUMP
JACK SCHWARTZ
JACOBIES
JAGUAR
JASMIN
JEFFREY CAMPBELL
JELLY BEANS
JELLY BELLY
JESCO
JOHN DEERE
JOY
JUMP DELUXE
JUMP FOR THE PEOPLE
JUMP USA
K•SWISS
KAMIK
KANGA
KAZA
KELSI DAGGER
KICKERS
KISS ME
KOOLABURRA
KRASNOW
K-SWISS
KUMFS
LA GEAR
LAREDO WESTERN
BOOTS
LAUREN JONES
LE CHAMEAU
LE CHAT
LEBOOTIQUE
LEFT & RIGHT
LEGEND
LIA BIJOU
LINK
LITTLE DIVA
LLOYD
LOQUITA
LOVELY PEOPLE
LUCCHESE
LUCCHESE CLASSICS
LUCITA
LUCKY TOP
LUGZ
LUICHINY
LUISA D’ ORIO CONTESA - MADE IN
ITALY
LUNA ROSA
LYNCOS
MADEMOISELLE
MALIKS
1
, 201
3
1
y
RY
ursda
BRUA
Th
a y –rk Hotel
d
s
e
Tu New Yo wrooms
n
Hilto ber Sho
m
& Me
MARC JOSEPH
MARCHEZ VOUS YS
MARGARITAVILLE
MARICHIMANI
MARINELLI
MARISA REY
MARLBORO
FOOTWORKS
MARTINEZ VALERO
MATIKO
MATISSE
MATT BERNSON
MAUI & SONS
MBT
ME
MEA SHADOW
MEDICI
MENBUR
MESSÉCA
MILANO MODE
MISS ME
MISS ME LEATHER
MODZORI
MORENATOM
MTNG
MTNG MEN
MTNG/SIXTYSEVEN
N.Y.L.A.
NADIA-NERI
NANCY KATZ
NANCY LI
NAOT
NAOT DEAD SEA
TREASURES
NAUTICA
NAVID O NADIA
NAYELI
NEW EDITION
NEW ROCK
NINA
NOMAD
NUDE
NUOVO NICAR
NYLA
OH!
OK JAMAICA
OLEM
ONE O ONE
OPPO
ORLY
PAJAR
PALLADIUM
PALMROTH
PANTHA
PAS DE ROUGE
PAUL GREEN
PAUL MAYER /
ATTITUDES
PAZZO
PEACOCK
PENGUIN
PEPPERGATE
PERLINA LUXURY
COMFORT
PERRY ELLIS
PERTTI PALMROTH
PETER FINNIE
PHILIP SIMON
PHOENIX
PIERRE DUMAS
PILAR ABRIL
PINK DUCHESS
PINKY
PINOSO’S
PONS QUINTANA
PONY
POUR LA VICTOIRE
PRIVATE LABEL
PRIVILEDGED
PROMISE
QUPID
QUPID LUXE
RAMARIM
RAMON TENZA
RAMSAY
REBECCA MINKOFF
REBELS
RED CIRCLE
REED EVINS
RE-MIX
RE-MIX CLASSIC
VINTAGE
RESTRICTED
RIPLAY
RJ GIRL
ROBERT CAMERON
ROBERT WAYNE
ROBERT WAYNE BY
CAFEINA
ROBERT ZUR
ROCK AND REPUBLIC
ROUGH JUSTICE
RYN
SANDALISTAS
SANITA
SANITA CLOGS
SANTANA CANADA
SBICCA OF CALIFORNIA
SCHUTZ
SEBAMAR
SEDUCE ME
SENDRA BOOTS
SHAQ
SHERIDAN MIA
SHM
SHOE ACCENTS BY
NANCY
SHOE REPUBLIC
SHOE-AHOLIC
SIGNATURE FASHION
SIMCO
SIMPLY PETALS
SIXTYSEVEN
SKIN
SMAC
SMARTTY
SNEAUX
SOFTWALK
SOLE DESIGN
SOLES
SOMETHING BLEU
SPLASH
SPRING
SPRING STEP
SPRING STEP
PROFESSIONAL
STAHEEKUM
STUDIO FLEXX
SUMMER RIO
SUP TRADING
SWEET SEVENTEEN
TCK DESIGNS
TEAM ROSELLI
TEROX
THE FLEXX
THE MIX
THE YELLOWSTONE
COMPANY
THIERRY RABOTIN
TIGGERS
TOMS
TOP GUY
TOP MODA
TROTTERS
TUCCIA DI CAPRI
TUCCIA, THE CLASSIC
SANDAL OF CAPRI
UNRESTRICTED
UNSENSORED
VALENTI FRANCO
VELVET ANGELS
VELVET LOUNGE
VERDE MELA
VERY VOLATILE
VIA PINKY
VOLATILE
VOLATILE HANDBAGS
VOLATILE KIDS
WACKY WILLIE
WALK BY FAITH VINTAGE
WASHINGTON SHOE
WESTERN CHIEF
WESTERN CHIEF KIDS
WILD DIVA
WILD ROSE
WOOLENSTOCKS
YALEET
YELLOW BOX
YOKI
ZALO
ZIERA
ZIERA SHOES N2
ZIG ZAG
ZITAMARIA
EXHIBITORS NEW YORK
SHOWROOMS
2 LIPS TOO
7 FOR ALL MANKIND
9 & COMPANY
ADESSO MADDEN
ADRIENNE VITTADINI
AHNU
AK ANNE KLEIN
ALLURE
AMALFI BY RANGONI
ANDRÉ ASSOUS
ANN MARINO
ANNE MICHELLE
ARA
ARA HANDBAGS
ARA MENS
ARCHE
ARTURO CHIANG
ASH
B. MAKOWSKY
B.O.C
BACIO 61
BADGLEY MISCHKA
BAMBOO
BANANA BLUES
BANDOLINO
BAREFOOT ORIGINALS
BATES
BC
BCBGENERATION
BCBGMAXAZRIA
BEBE
BETSEY JOHNSON
BETTYE MULLER
BIG BUDDHA
BLOWFISH MALIBU
BLOWFISH MALIBU KIDS
BORN
BORN CROWN
BOURNE
BOUTIQUE 9
BROWN SHOE
BUSTER BROWN
CALVIN KLEIN
CAMUTO GROUP
CAPARROS
CAPELLI NEW YORK
CAPELLI NEW YORK
KIDS
CARESSA
CARLOS BY CARLOS
SANTANA
CAT
CHACO
CHAINSON
CHARLES JOURDAN
CHILIS
CHINESE LAUNDRY
CIRCA JOAN & DAVID
CL BY LAUNDRY
CLAUDIA CIUTI
CLAUDIO DE LORENA
CLIFFS
COACH
COLE HAAN
COLLECTIVE BRANDS
PERFORMANCE +
LIFESTYLE GROUP
CONSOLIDATED
CREATIVE
INTERNATIONAL
CUSHE
CYNTHIA VINCENT
DANIBLACK
DANIELLA
DEER STAGS CONCEPTS
DELARENTIS
DELMAN
DIANE VON
FURSTENBERG
EXH
IBI
DIRTY LAUNDRY
DKNY
DOCKERS
DOCKERS BOYS
DONALD J PLINER
DR. SCHOLL’S
DUSICA DUSICA
DUSICA SACKS KOTUR
EASY SPIRIT
EL PADRINO
ELIZABETH & JAMES
ENVY
ENZO ANGIOLINI
ERIC JAVITS
ETIENNE AIGNER
EUROSOFT
EVOLUTION DESIGN LAB
FERGALICIOUS BY
FERGIE
FERGIE
FOOT PETALS SHOES
FOSSIL
FRANCO SARTO
FRYE
GENTLE SOULS BY
KENNETH COLE
GLORIA VANDERBILT
GOMAX
GOMAX/ ENVY
GUN METAL
GUPPY LOVE
GUPPY LOVE KIDS
H.H. BROWN
HARLEY-DAVIDSON
HIGHLINE UNITED
HOT KISS
HUNTER BOOT
HUSH PUPPIES
IMPO
INTERNATIONAL
IRREGULAR CHOICE
ISOLÁ
J. RENEÉ
J.P. ORIGINAL
JEAN-MICHEL CAZABAT
JELLYPOP
JENNY BY ARA
JESSICA BENNETT
JESSICA SIMPSON
JIMLAR
JOAN & DAVID
JOE’S
JUICY COUTURE
KATE SPADE
KATHY VAN ZEELAND
KEDS
KENNETH COLE NEW
YORK
KENNETH COLE
PRODUCTIONS
KENNETH COLE
REACTION
KENSIE GIRL
KICKERS
KORK-EASE
KORS MICHAEL KORS
KUHLMAN
L.A.M.B./HARAJUKU
LOVERS
BRA
TING
LA CANADIENNE
LACOSTE
LEIFSDOTTIR
LIBBY EDELMAN
LIFESTRIDE
LOLA CRUZ
LUCKY BRAND
LUXURY REBEL
MADDEN GIRL
MADELINE
MARK AND JAMES
MARK TUCKER
MASSIMO MATTEO
MAX STUDIO
ME TOO
MERRELL
MIA 2
MIA AMORE
MIA GIRL
MIA KIDS
MIA LIMITED EDITION
MIA SHOES FIRST COST
DIVISION
MICHAEL ANTONIO
MICHAEL MICHAEL
KORS
MIKEKONOS
MINI MIA
MISS ROBERTSON
MODA SPANA
MODA SPANA PINK
LABEL
MODERN VINTAGE
MOOTSIES TOOTSIES
MOUNTREK
NATURAL SOUL
NATURALIZER
NAYA
NEW YORK
SHOWROOMS
NEW YORK TRANSIT
NICKELS
NICOLE
NINA
NINA KIDS
NINE WEST
NINE WEST VINTAGE
OTBT
PAJAR CANADA
PARIS HILTON
PATAGONIA
PELLE MODA
PENNY LOVES KENNY
PIERO CERVI
PLENTY BY TRACY
REESE
POETIC LICENCE
PRIVATE LABEL
PURA LOPEZ
R.J. COLT
RAGAZZA
RALPH LAUREN
RANKIN
REPORT
RIALTO
ROCAWEAR
NDS
ROCKADELIC
ROCKET DOG
SACHA LONDON
SACHELLE
SAM & LIBBY
SAM EDELMAN
SANTOTRIANA
SCHWARTZ &
BENJAMIN
SEBAGO
SESTO GOLF
SESTO MEUCCI
SEYCHELLES
SÖFFT
SOFTSPOTS
SONATA
SOREL
SPERRY TOP-SIDER
STEVE MADDEN
STEVE MADDEN KIDS
STEVE MADDEN MENS
STEVEN BY STEVE
MADDEN
STRIDE RITE
STUART WEITZMAN
STUART WEITZMAN
HANDBAGS
STUART WEITZMAN
KIDS
SUNNY FEET
TARYN ROSE
TED BAKER
TIGNANELLO
TITAN
TORY BURCH
TRACY REESE
TRUE RELIGION
TSUBO
TWO LIPS
UES
UGGS AUSTRALIA
UNITED NUDE
UNLEASHED
UNLISTED, A KENNETH
COLE PRODUCTION
VALDINI
VANELI
VANELI SPORT
VERA WANG LAVENDER
VIA SPIGA
VIGOSS
VINCE CAMUTO
VINTAGE
WALK-OVER
WANTED
WHITE MOUNTAIN
WOLFF
WOLVERINE
WOLVERINE WORLD
WIDE
ZODIAC USA
DEC 1-3 EXHIBITORS
AS OF NOV 3