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BUYING GUIDE
MAY 2012
Freshly-harvested Brunello grapes, a clone of
Sangiovese planted in Montalcino and used to produce
the region’s renowned wine, from Col d’Orcia’s vineyard.
2 ITALY
29 FRANCE
31 SPAIN
34 OTHER OLD WORLD
35 SOUTH AFRICA
38 AUSTRALIA
41 ARGENTINA
46 CALIFORNIA
59 WASHINGTON
Clay McLachlan
63 SPIRITS
65 BEER
FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND
REVIEWS, VISIT
BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM
WineMag.com | 1
ITALY
THE 95-POINT 2007 VINTAGE IN BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
T
he 2007 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino is a lovely expression of
variety and territory—a true celebration of this austere yet sophisticated red wine from southern Tuscany. As Italian Editor for Wine
Enthusiast Magazine, I was among the first to blind taste through the new
vintage and found it to be one of the most exciting vintages since the start
of the millennium.
Following an intense tasting of some 250 wines at the local vintners’ association headquarters in Montalcino, I scored the 2007 vintage 95 points
on our 100-point scale. The 2006 vintage earned 93 points last year, and
both vintages were given a maximum five stars by the Consorzio del Vino
Brunello di Montalcino.
So what sets 2007 apart? The strong cola or menthol-like notes of licorice, dried ginger, cured meat and white pepper, or as the Italians refer to
these characteristics, note balsamiche. These delicate and compelling aromas are unique to Sangiovese. It’s a pleasure to find such harmony and consistency in a single vintage.
95
TUSCANY
2007 BRUNELLO
97
Capanna 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Capanna’s offering in 2007 is extremely bold,
dark and opulent. Loads of aromatic momentum in the
form of blackberry, cherry liqueur, spice, leather, tobacco, rum cake, cinnamon, vanilla bean and bitter chocolate characterize the bouquet. The wine also shows a
soft, ripe, generous texture, yet remains well-contained
and balanced. Masciarelli Wine Co. Cellar Selection.
—M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $55
97
Casanova di Neri 2007 Tenuta Nuova
(Brunello di Montalcino). Gorgeous, opulent and rich, Tenuta Nuova is an unforgettable wine.
It has body, power, persistence and loads of plush personality. It is layered with chocolate, cherry, blackberry,
spice, leather and savory notes. There’s a deep mineral
layer as well. Compelling and lovely. Dalla Terra Winery
Direct. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $79
97
Luce della Vite 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Luce della Vite opens with an opulent,
generous style and is packed with black cherry, black
currant, cola, leather and pipe tobacco. This is a plush,
rich and deeply textured wine, with plenty of intensity
and staying power. It shows dense tannins with a touch
of youthful astringency. Age 10 more years. Folio Fine
Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
Price: $93
abv: NA
96
Corte Pavone 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. For full review see page 3. Cellar Selec-
tion.
abv: 14.5%
The 2006 vintage was characterized by higher acidity and long aging potential. But overall, the wines are sharper, linear and more austere than in
2007. On the other hand, the 2007 vintage is soft, round and opulent, and
shows incredible aromatic intensity. Yet it still delivers firm structure and
enough power for aging. Sangiovese Grosso is a naturally acidic variety,
with freshness that’s very well balanced in 2007.
The fruit component in this vintage is rich with black currant and wild
berry. While past vintages have been dominated by bold cherry, the 2007
is more nuanced. These wines are ready to drink sooner than is typical for
the wines of the region, but they also show excellent aging potential because of their firm, velvety structures. The ripeness of their tannins makes
them generous and approachable.
Most estates performed consistently well in 2006 and 2007, though there
was more variability in 2006. The 2007 vintage, with its cool summer and
dry conditions, showed positive results across the Montalcino area, even in
the coolest, north-facing subzones. —Monica Larner
Price: $75
2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2012
Casanova di Neri 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This 2007 Brunello is a big, opulent
pleasure bomb with lavish layers, loaded thickly on top
of each other: Chocolate fudge, dark cherry, blackberry
preserves, rum cake, prune, exotic spice, pipe tobacco,
cola, humus and leather. It shows huge personality, intensity and staying power, too. All that density is backed
by solid tannins and a steady firmness. Hold 10–15
years. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Editors’ Choice.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
95
Castelgiocondo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. From Tuscany’s celebrated Frescobaldi wine family, Brunello Castelgiocondo opens with
dark, inky concentration and bold aromas of pressed
rose, black cherry, exotic spice, leather and unsweetened chocolate. It is beautifully put together, with ample intensity, balance, complexity and silkiness on the
finish. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75
95
La Gerla 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Ripe fruit and red cherry, with spice, cinnamon and wood shop aromas, characterize the youthful
bouquet of La Gerla’s latest Brunello. But there’s also
a pretty mineral tone that gives the nose backbone and
definition. It is delicate and feminine in the mouth, with
elegant flavors of wild berry and blue flower that will
surely grow in intensity as the wine evolves. Give it 10
more years. Southern Wine and Spirits. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
95
La Mannella 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A gorgeous Brunello, with bountiful and
intense aromas of red fruit, blackberry, spice, leather
and cedar wood that go on and on. The wine is pristine,
chiseled and sharp—but bold and generous at the same
time. There’s a touch of bitter almond followed by softer tones of red berry and spice. Casa Torelli. Editors’
Choice. —M.L.
Price: $47
abv: 14.5%
95
Padelletti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Here’s a bright and bold Brunello with loads of
ripe cherry, inky density and a beautifully polished feel
with crushed mineral and wet river stone elements. It’s
a truly beautiful wine with stunning purity and intensity. All elements are balanced—from the fruit, to the
spice, to the ethereal balsam notes. The mouthfeel is
lively and intense and the finish is packed with berry,
almond and savory persistence. Age 10–15 years. J.D.
Cellars Inc. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
95
Pieve Santa Restituta 2007 Rennina
(Brunello di Montalcino). Put this beautiful
Brunello in your cellar for at least 10–15 more years.
Rennina opens with bold oak and cherry tones (that
need more time to integrate), followed by plump, rich
blackberry flavors, chocolate, leather and dark spice. It’s
a wine characterized by impressive density and opulence. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection.
—M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $175
95
Podere Brizio 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A beautifully composed and well-constructed Brunello, with bright berry tones of cassis and cherry
backed by ethereal notes of root beer and eucalyptus.
The wine shows a clean, crisp and structured sensation
in the mouth—with a touch of bitter almond on the
Continued on Page 12
The Wine Enthusiast
Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release
and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated
by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified
tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include
Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director
Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa,
Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor
Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New
York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor
Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff in
Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and
Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa.
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s
initials appear following the note. When no initials appear
following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or
more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input
of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are
by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product,
its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by
the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content
cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed.
Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.
95
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Corte Pavone 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This dark Brunello opens with thick concentration and balsam notes of cola, humus and eucalyptus. Despite the thick extraction, the berry aromas
are delicate, with lingering wild raspberry and forest
fruit. The wine shows a nice juxtaposition between its
bold, masculine side and an elegant feminine one. The
mouthfeel is bold, plush and powerful. HeyDay Corporation. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
Price: $75
abv: 14.5%
Longoria 2009 Fe Ciega Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). A top-rank Pinot Noir,
dry, silky and elegant, with moderate alcohol despite
great richness. The flavors of cherries, cola, plums and
herbs are simply delicious, while the structure displays
great integrity of acids and tannins. A bit tight now in
youth, it should unfold over the next eight years. If you
pop the cork now, give it a few hours of airing. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $48
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed
blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in
peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in
assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or
uncustomary are retasted.
ABOUT THE SCORES
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
Classic 98–100:
Superb 94–97:
Excellent 90–93:
Very Good 87–89:
Good 83–86:
Acceptable 80–82:
The pinnacle of quality.
A great achievement.
Highly recommended.
Often good value; well recommended.
Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
Can be employed in casual, lesscritical circumstances.
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80
points) are not reviewed.
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent
quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any
price with unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae
for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are
generally priced at $15 or less.
SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW
Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing
location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.
com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting
& Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@
wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting
products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted
for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted
will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All
samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission
forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site.
LABELS
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given
the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and
printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on
label p
­ urchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax
866.896.8786; or email [email protected].
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at
buyingguide.winemag.com
96
Marimar Estate 2008 La Masía Don
Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Absolutely stunning, a testament to the
vintage, the terroir and to the winemaker’s impeccable
hand. It’s delicious beyond description, offering wave
after wave of cherry pie, blackberry confit, red currant, persimmon and cola flavors, finished with exciting spices. Already throwing sediment, it’s so balanced
in acids and tannins that it’s gorgeous now, but should
develop effortlessly over the next six years at the very
least. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $39
95
Venge 2009 Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Venge’s superb 2008 Bone Ash was a tough act to follow, but this
2009 pulls it off. Made entirely from Cabernet and aged
for nearly two years in mostly new French oak, it shows
massively rich flavors of blackberries, cassis and sweet
buttered toast, with a lush, smooth mouthfeel, courtesy
of ripe, sweet tannins. So easy to like, and an ideal partner to a perfectly grilled steak. Drink now and over the
next six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $80
94
95
Dunham 2007 XIII Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). Tasted at more than four
years of age, this is a standout effort in a series that dates
back to the mid-1990s. A complex nose greets you with
a floral, dusty tickle, leading into a fruit-packed wine,
with blueberry and black cherry most evident. Notes of
black olive and graphite come through on the long finish, with exceptional grip and polish. Editors’ Choice.
—P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
Chronicle 2009 Cerise Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Anderson Valley). One sip is all it takes
to know this is a terrific Pinot Noir. It’s dry, silky and
complex, and not only that, it will develop bottle nuance
over the next six years. Rich and flamboyant in cherry
pie filling, persimmon and mushu-plum sauce flavors,
yet layered with earthy, foresty notes of mushrooms, soy
sauce and balsam. You can drink it now, but give it an
hour or two of decanting. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $60
WineMag.com | 3
94
Coghlan 2009 Diopside Pinot Noir (Sta.
Rita Hills). While the texture of this Pinot
is silky and light, it’s dramatic in flavor. The cherries,
plums, pomegranates and persimmons are packed together into a dense core of taste, all spiced up with cinnamon, cloves and anise. Feels dramatic and complex,
but young and fresh in acids and tannins. Give it 5–6
years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Col d’Orcia 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Here is a particularly impressive wine from one
of Montalcino’s top estates. The wine opens with ethereal balsam notes of eucalyptus, humus, dried fruit and
dried mint. Beyond those elegant tones are sturdier layers of cured meat and savory spice. It shows bold concentration, thick power and firmness on the close, with
a drying mineral finish. Let it age five more years. Palm
Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $63
94
Native 9 2009 Rancho Ontiveros Vineyards Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). A
lovely Pinot, dry, crisp and silky, with ripe raspberry,
strawberry and cherry fruit flavors, grounded by notes
of grilled mushrooms, exotic spices and forest undergrowth. Sweetly delicious now, it should blossom over
the next six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $64
93
94
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Volker Eisele Family Estate 2008 Alexander Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).
Made from 100% Cabernet, this is a worthy followup
to the extraordinary 2006 and 2007 vintages. Feels fine
in the mouth, with rich tannins and dry, elegant flavors
of blackberries, cassis, dark chocolate and French oak.
The tannins are pure Napa, smooth and complex. Not
ready to drink now, but give it a good six years, and it
could develop over the next fifteen. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125
Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Heritage
Selection Estate Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). This is the most expensive Pinot Noir from
Gundlach Bundschu in many years, maybe ever, but it’s
also easily their best. It’s absolutely delicious in cherries,
pomegranates and spices, with a wonderful earthiness
that grounds it. So silky and complex, so rewarding to
drink now. Great to see this veteran winery coming out
with a wine this fine. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $48
Marimar Estate 2010 Acero Don Miguel
Vineyard Unoaked Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). It’s unbelievable that this Chardonnay is
unoaked, it’s so incredibly rich and creamy. Just packed
with layers of tropical fruits, peaches, Asian pears and
oatmeal cookies. All that butter and cream must be
from the malolactic fermentation and aging on the lees.
One of the best unoaked Chardonnays ever. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $29
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Dunham 2008 Lewis Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley). The artist label Syrah is usually Dunham’s best, as this vineyard is well-established
as one of the premier sites in Washington for Syrah.
Scents of violets and black cherry introduce a dense,
hard, tightly wound, muscular effort that needs a generous amount of breathing time. It rolls through the palate on a train of well-defined fruit, spice and chocolate,
all nicely integrated. Supple and long. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $75
4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
93
Flora Springs 2009 Hillside Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). So softly
delicious, it’s probably not an ager, but what a terrific
wine to drink now and over the next few years. Really
luscious, showing modern-style ripe blackberry, black
cherry, cassis and mocha flavors that sink deep and last
long into the finish. The tannins and overall structure
lift it into classy elegance. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $100
Marimar Estate 2008 Earthquake Block
Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). This block selection from the estate
vineyard is planted to the old Pommard clone. It’s an
elegantly dry wine, dense in black and red cherry fruit,
with hints of cola, wild herbs and spices. Feels very
fine and silky in the mouth, and gets better with airing.
Drink now and over the next six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $47
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Marimar Estate 2008 Stony Block Don
Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). The winery has been producing more and
more low-production block bottlings from their estate
vineyard. This one is entirely from the Dijon clone 115.
It’s soft, sweet and utterly captivating, a feminine wine
of enormous charm, with raspberry, cola and pomegranate flavors, enhanced, of course, by smoky new oak. The
acidity is fine, and will protect the wine as it develops
over the next six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $47
93
Quady 2010 Essensia Orange Muscat
(California). Absolutely delicious, an addictive
dessert wine. Brisk in acidity and clean in the mouth, if
offers fabulously sweet flavors of oranges, vanilla, honey
and buttered toast. Drink it with cheesecake and go to
heaven. —S.H.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $25
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Penfolds 2008 RWT Shiraz (Barossa Valley). Full-bodied and richly textured, with Penfolds’ hallmark weight and structure on full display, the
2008 RWT shows a touch of the vintage’s characteristic warmth, but only a touch. The cassis and blackberry
fruit is plush, velvety and superripe, ending with hints
of tobacco, mint and vanilla. It should drink well for at
least a decade. Treasury Wine Estates. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $150
Rodney Strong 2008 Symmetry Meritage
(Alexander Valley). Symmetry is Rodney
Strong’s most important red wine, the one they pull out
all the stops on. It’s usually a hit, and so is this 2008,
which is a blend of all five Bordeaux red varieties, but
primarily on Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s extraordinarily
rich in blackberries, plums, blueberries and cassis, with
a surprising meatiness, like beef tartare. The mouthfeel
is very soft, suggesting that this wine’s best days are now.
—S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $55
92
Atlas Peak 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mount Veeder). Good for Atlas Peak for
holding this Cabernet for more than five years before
releasing it. It’s still tannic and young, with intense
blackberry, blueberry and cassis flavors that are dry and
spicy. Showing an elegant mouthfeel, it needs a little
more time. Hold until 2015, but it could develop over
the next decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $86
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Dunham 2008 Lewis Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Tasty and
toasty, young and compact, this is a wine to cellar for a
few more years at least. The bright fruit flavors run from
berry to Bing cherry, not as dark as in some years, but vibrant and crisp. The new oak is not yet fully integrated,
so give it some extra bottle age for optimal enjoyment.
Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $75
92
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Poet’s Leap 2010 Riesling (Columbia
Valley). From an especially cool vintage that
favored acidity and citrus, this Poet’s Leap is a pretty
wine, vibrant and full across the palate, with a mix of
apple and peach flavors. Clean and balanced, it adds nuances of tea and finally a hint of honey in the extended
finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $20
93
Wakefield Estate 2006 St. Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon (Clare Valley). A perennial favorite, Wakefield’s St. Andrews bottling shows how
good certain parts of Clare can be for Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2006 displays a masterful blend of cedar,
chocolate, mocha, cassis, baking spices and leather, all
wrapped in an elegant coat of dusty but supple tannins.
Drink 2015–2025. American Wine Distributors. Cellar
Selection. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
Fess Parker 2009 Rodney’s Vineyard
Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Rich and
ripe in blackberry, cassis and smoked meat flavors, this
big, bold Syrah is fairly high in alcohol, but wears it well.
It has a full-bodied, warm mouthfeel, and is best enjoyed over the next year or two. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $49
WineMag.com | 5
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Finca Flichman 2008 Dedicado (Mendoza). Dense, earthy and rich upfront, with bold
black plum and berry flavors that hit the right chords.
Feels slick, deep and polished, with blackberry, cassis,
coffee and coconut flavors that feed into a simmering
finish that runs for miles. An excellent blend of Cab,
Malbec and Syrah to drink now and over the next five
years. Evaton, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
92
Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel Vineyard Albariño (Russian River Valley).
Marimar’s first Albariño is unquestionably one of the
best ever to hail from California. Made without oak, it’s
modest in alcohol, giving it a light, transparent mouthfeel that transmits pure, bone dry flavors of peaches,
grapefruits and guava, with a touch of Sauvignon Blanclike gooseberry and enough acidity to make the palate
whistle. A real beauty, especially with Asian fusion fare.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32
92
Quady 2010 Elysium Black Muscat (California). With nearly 20% residual sugar, this
wine is enormously sweet in honey and black cherry flavors, balanced by brilliant acidity. It’s delicious and savory and so easy to like. For something unusual, try with
a runny cheese, like a soft Gorgonzola. —S.H.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $21
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Flora Springs 2009 Trilogy (Napa Valley). A lovely wine, soft and charming, but far
from simple. Although it has complex layers of cherries, blackberries, cassis and cedar, it also shows a fine
structure of ripe, smooth tannins and supporting acidity.
Drink now–2015 while it’s fresh and forward. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $65
92
Marimar Estate 2009 La Masía Don
Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). Is that a touch of botrytis on the nose?
Or does that apricot come from the Rued clone of Chardonnay? Either way, this dry wine offers vastly complex layers of fruits, spices, minerals, white flowers and
smoky new oak. It’s exotic, a Chardonnay that marches
to a different beat and demands some understanding on
the part of the taster. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $35
Royal Tokaji 2007 Red Label Aszú 5 Puttonyos (Tokaji). Ebulliently floral on the nose,
this decadently creamy Tokaji bursts with characteristic
honey, peach preserve and dried fig sweetness. A streak
of citrusy acidity adds balance, while subtle hints of caramelized sugar and tea leaves add twists to the long,
honey-kissed finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $43/500 ml
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John Tyler 2008 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A wonderful wine that’s rich and delicious. The raspberry and
cherry fruit is dusted with exotic spices and finished
with sweet, smoky oak. With its silky texture and good
acidity, it’s a brilliant evocation of a warm part of the
valley. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
92
Peter Lehmann 2006 Mentor Cabernet
Sauvignon (Barossa). Full bodied and richly tannic, Lehmann’s 2006 Mentor is dark, chocolaty
and intense, with further nuances of cassis and cigar
box. The finish is chewy and juicy, simultaneously drying and mouthwatering. Drink 2015–2023. Hess Collection. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
Clone 7 2008 Reserve Cuvée Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Shows all the hallmarks of a modern Napa wine of high quality. Although
it’s quite dry, it’s rich in crushed ripe blackberries, in
good allignment with smoky new oak. The tannins are
smooth and complex, the acidity just fine. Really a lovely bottle of red wine, although a touch of superripeness
may limit ageability. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
91
Coghlan 2009 Tourmaline Grenache
Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). This is a very
rich, creamy wine. Fermented in stainless steel, the
creaminess must come from lees aging. The flavors of
orange and apricot jam and zesty lemon tart are dominant, but vital acidity also stars, giving the finish a spicy
punch. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $24
91
Rodney Strong 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). A lovely restaurantstyle Pinot Noir, showing lots of class and elegance, yet
with enough modesty to step aside and let the food star.
Dry and silky, it shows raspberry, cherry, red currant
and cola flavors, accented with sweet, smoky oak. Suggested pairings include steak, lamb chops and grilled ahi
tuna. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $40
91
Joseph Drouhin 2009 Pommard. A solid
wine, with plum skin and dry tannin textures. It
does have the ripe fruit of 2009, attractive red fruits and
juicy acidity. But it needs aging over at least three years
to show its fruitiness. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
90
Buehler 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). Good price for a Napa Valley Cabernet
this distinguished. It’s rich and satisfying in blackberry,
black currant and blueberry fruit, with a lovely coat of
smoky oak. Shows lots of complexity, and the finish is
dry and spicy. Could go the distance, but just to be safe,
drink over the next six years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $25
90
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Royal Tokaji 2009 Mád Cuvée Late Harvest (Tokaji). For $20, this bargain basement
Tokaji is pretty unbelievable. Abundantly floral and
honeyed on the nose, it’s deeply concentrated on the
palate, with layers of luscious figs and peaches, accented
by lanolin and beeswax. Creamy and unctuous on the
tongue, yet clean and fresh on the finish, with orangeinflected acidity that lingers. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Editor’s Choice. —A.I.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $20/375 ml
Finca La Mata 2009 Ribera del Duero.
Packed tight with power and minty, earthy berry aromas that come with a dry dustiness. Feels ripe
and proper, with a slight tannic grab and full but fresh
flavors of wild berry, cassis, cocoa and oak. On the finish, chocolate and dry spice flavors take over, yielding
a pleasant, complete whole. Drink now through 2015.
Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
91
Kilikanoon 2009 Killerman’s Run Shiraz
(South Australia). A terrific value, the 2009
Killerman’s Run Shiraz is full bodied, creamy in texture
and endowed with a long, velvety finish. The dark berryblack cherry fruit is big, but balanced by notes of cedar,
mocha, chocolate and vanilla. Drink it over the next few
years. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
90
90
Atlas Peak 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Fruit stars in this young, rich
Cabernet. It’s as good as young, drink-me-now Napa
Cab gets, offering waves of blackberries, cherries,
plums, sweet oak and spices that go on and on into long
finish. The tannins are perfectly ripe, the acidity fine
and brisk. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $35
Flora Springs 2010 Barrel Fermented
Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This bottling
has been variable over the decades, but this 2010 shows
fine form, a good sign coming on the heels of the excellent 2009. It’s richly oaked and flashy in pineapple jam,
buttered toast and creamy, yeasty flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
WineMag.com | 7
90
Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Ripe
fruit and new oak combine for lush, complex flavors
in this dramatic young Pinot Noir. It shows real flair in
the raspberry, cherry and cola flavors, with vanilla and
buttered cinnamon toast from aging in French barrels.
Easy to like now for its silky texture and long, pure spicy
finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $34
90
Penley Estate 2009 Phoenix Cabernet
Sauvignon (Coonawarra). Penley’s 2009
Phoenix offers classic cassis fruit, shored up by hints of
mocha, vanilla and menthol. It’s medium to full bodied,
powerful yet elegant, with tannins that are firm but not
unapproachable. Drink now–2020. Old Bridge Cellars.
Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
90
Salentein 2010 Reserve Malbec (Uco Valley). Compact, concentrated and clean, with all
its components in place. The bouquet is dark with charcoal, but bright with berry fruit aromas. The mouthfeel
is comfortable and balanced, with sweet berry flavors
offset by mild spice and proper oak. Soft tannins define
the finish; a fine Malbec that doesn’t overdo it. Palm
Bay International. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
90
90
Joseph Drouhin 2009 Côte de BeauneVillages. A wine that reveals its rich, jammy
fruit slowly. When it arrives, the fruit is soft and generous, with strawberry jam and red plum flavors. It also
has intense fresh acidity, a dry tannic core and aging potential. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
90
Occasio 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Livermore Valley). Occasio has made a restrained and elegant Cabernet, alluring in its cola
spice—almost sarsaparilla—aromas. Then the wine
delves into dusty red and black fruit with ample structure, and a vein of minerality cradled into one delicious
package. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $36
8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
90
Rodney Strong 2008 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Here’s a
fruity, soft, flamboyant Cabernet, packed with plum,
blackberry, black currant, licorice, dark chocolate and
spicy oak flavors. Delicious and savory, it’s probably
showing its best now, so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $45
90
Rubissow 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mount Veeder). Shows the richness of
Mount Veeder fruit and also the Rubissow style, which
emphasizes massively extracted fruit. Just overwhelms
with jammy blackberries, cherries, mocha, licorice and
vanilla. The tannins are polished and pretty, being firm
yet soft at the same time. Give it a decant and drink
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
Spice Route 2009 Pinotage (Swartland).
A forward, oak-inspired character leads the
nose with scents of vanilla and soft toast, but is supported by the solid fruit core of blueberry, mulled boysenberry and black plum guts. Attractive and rich in the
mouth, with a firm but accessible structure and lifting
acidity. Drink now–2015. Vineyard Brands. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
90
Stonegate 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Good price for a Napa Chardonnay this
rich and balanced. It’s enormously ripe in pineapples,
oranges and golden mangoes, but grounded by zesty
acidity and a minerality that comes from the soil. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
89
Darcie Kent Vineyards 2008 Madden
Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore
Valley). Darcie Kent really nails this Cab out of John
Madden’s Ranch. Pungently bold and moody, intensely herbal with green pepper and olive, wrapped within
a wall of black pepper that lingers. Pair it with pepper
steak. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $24
88
Fazeli Cellars 2008 Yalda (Temecula Valley). This newish producer pays honor to its
Persian roots with Yalda, a Rhône-style blend of 41%
Shiraz, 26% Mourvedre, 25% Grenache and 8% Cinsault that’s intense, coated like chocolate-strawberry
jam, tobacco, leather and earth with a subtext of cheese
rind. This wine definitely has character. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $48
87
Darcie Kent Vineyards 2009 Crown Block
Merlot (Livermore Valley). A dark, plummy
Livermore Valley Merlot that reminds one of herbencrusted roasted meats, and would be a good wine
to pair with such a feast. Full-bodied and lush, with a
smoky, oaky finish and cedar lurking throughout. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
89
Joseph Drouhin 2009 Chorey-lesBeaune. From its situation on the plain outside Beaune, Chorey is often overlooked. A wine like
this, ripe and smooth, full of red fruit, offers a deliciously juicy drink and represents a great value in red Burgundy. Drink now, or keep for two years. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
88
Fazeli Cellars 2008 Khayyam Cabernet
Sauvignon (California). From Temeculabased producer Fazeli, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
features a lofty nose that’s quite herbal, drifting into eucalyptus land—and tasting of cranberry. Velvety tannins. —V.B.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $44
88
Lola Kay 2010 Proprietary Red Wine
(Napa Valley). This is from Rubissow, and it’s
a nice wine for the price. Essentially a Bordeaux blend
with a splash of Syrah, it’s rich and satisfying in blackberry, cassis, mocha, bacon and pepper flavors, with a
coating of sweet oak. Lovely now with anything from a
nice steak to a beef burrito. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $20
86
Lola Kay 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). Lots of ripe, forward citrus, tropical
fruit, melon and peach flavors in this slightly sweet Sauvignon Blanc. A bit of oak brings a nice smoky creaminess. More controversial is the green, gooseberry tartness that will divide wine lovers into pro and con. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $16
87
Darcie Kent Vineyards 2010 DeMayo
Vineyard Chardonnay (Livermore Valley).
This is a big, barrel-aged Chardonnay resplendent in
caramel and honey, although it turns a bit bi-polar on
the mid-palate, where it shows off lean minerality. A yin
and yang wine, with a slight burn on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
85
Perry Creek 2009 Zinman Zinfandel (El
Dorado). Perry Creek’s popular, well-priced
Zinman shows off leathery, cola spice and blackberry
flavors and fruit that’s just at the precipice between ripe
and overripe nice structure. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $14
WineMag.com | 9
BEER
84
Campus Oaks 2008 Old Vine Zinfandel
(Lodi). This old-vine Lodi Zin features caramel, vanilla and cherry notes. Most unusually, it’s blended with tiny amounts of Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc
and is fairly light bodied and sweet on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
SPIRITS
90
Port City Optimal Wit (Witbier; Port City
Brewing Company, VA). Brewed with coriander, orange peel and grains of paradise, this is a wellbalanced, smooth and immensely drinkable witbier
that any fan of the style can appreciate. The nose and
mouth are wheat-driven, but accents from the spice bill
are there to add depth and complexity. A lemony briskness complements the flavors of clove and pepper on
the close, ending slightly dry but clean.
abv: 5.0%
Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack
92
Luna Nueva 2012 The
Mayan Prophecy Edicion
Especial Tequila Reposado (Mexico; LCG International, Medina, OH).
On the nose and palate, expect lots of
vanilla, punctuated with a gentle, peppery
note and a touch of oaky sweetness. Well
balanced. The attractive frosted glass bottle with colorful Mayan graphic art is a
nice touch, too.
abv: 40%
Price: $45
Q 2010 Syrah (Sonoma County). Nice and
peppery, with deep, impressive blackberry and
plum, bacon and sandalwood flavors. It’s a full-bodied
wine with lots of power and elegance. Drink now. Best
Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $12
88
90
Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Oloroso
Sherry. Round and welcoming up front, with
toffee, caramel and mocha aromas that are not too
sharp. Feels smooth, with pure flavors of toasted nuts,
caramel, cocoa dust, dried apricot and underripe peach.
Complex and nutty on the finish, with a sweet aftertaste
of chocolate and toffee. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 18%
Price: $15
Hope Estate 2009 Shiraz (Hunter Valley).
This medium-bodied Shriaz displays a soft,
creamy, inviting mouthfeel and a piquant counterpoint
in its flavors of tart cherries and mulling spices. It’s an
easy-drinking wine that ends on a cranberry note. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
88
90
Tapiz 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Solid as a
boulder and concentrated on the bouquet, with
a mix of floral, fine perfume and blackberry aromas.
Feels lush, complete and easygoing, with blackberry,
cassis and chocolate flavors. Graceful and composed on
the back end. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $15
10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
89
BEST BUYS
95
Luna Nueva Ultra Premium
Limited Edition Tequila Reposado (Mexico; LCG International,
Medina, OH). On the dessert-like side,
this limited edition Tequila has a light
gold cast and rich crème brûlée aromas.
Silky, rich and beautiful, with soft, sweet
butterscotchy notes and just enough peppery tingle to brace up the spirit, consider this as a sipping Tequila after dinner.
Aged in French and American oak casks
for at least five months.
abv: 40%
Price: $37
BEST BUYS
Leese-Fitch 2009 Zinfandel (California).
A real crowd pleaser for its sumptuous array of
ripe berry and spice flavors. Wherever the grapes come
from in California, they’ve given a delicious wine, soft
and gentle, and filled with cherry, black raspberry, sweet
licorice, exotic spice and sandalwood flavors. Best Buy.
—S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $13
BEST BUYS
88
Releaf 2010 Made With Organically
Grown Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Shiraz (Western Cape). This wine needs a little bit of time to fully integrate, but it has an attractive
crushed-velvet texture with medium tannins, and a flavorful palate. Forward fruit flavors of berry preserves
and black plum abound, and a black pepper accent
remains on the medium-length finish. Prestige Wine
Group. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
88
Santa Julia 2011 + Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). Pretty aromas of cassis, cherry
and sweet cream are inviting. Feels good, with zesty
acidity and nice overall balance. Flavors of black currant, Bing cherry and plum cover the bases, while the
finish is easygoing. The epitome of everyday Cabernet.
Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
BEST BUYS
BEST BUYS
86
88
Kirkland Signature 2010 Merlot (Columbia Valley). Smooth and almost creamy, this
simple sipper has cherries and chocolate in abundance.
The flavors of vanilla and tobacco are also prominent.
Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $9
87
86
Tortoise Creek 2009 Cherokee Lane Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). From a single sustainably farmed vineyard in Lodi comes this super bang
for your buck. It’s earthy Cab that’s perfumed inside and
out, with wafts of cedar burning on an open fire, as well
as brick, black cherry and clove. It’s balanced and structured to boot. Best Buy. —V.B.
Price: $11
abv: 13.8%
Tortoise Creek 2010 Jam’s Blend Chardonnay (Lodi). A nicely done wine, especially
at the price. It’s very pretty aromatically, boasting pear
and vanilla notes, full in the mouth and lemony with
minerality. “Jam” of Jam’s Blend is a commingling of the
names of the two Tortoise Creek founders, Janie and
Mel Master, who source the grapes for this wine out of
a Lodi Rules vineyard. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $11
San Felipe 2010 Oak Cask Chardonnay
(Mendoza). Fleshy peach, melon and pineapple aromas on the nose. Feels lifted and fresh, and decidedly not oaky, with citrusy orange and nectarine flavors. Fruity, round and easy on the finish. Prestige Wine
Group. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
85
88
Tormentoso
2009
Syrah-Mourvèdre
(Paarl). Black cherry and raspberry scents immediately hit you upon nosing, followed shortly after by
an herbal edge with a chocolaty accent, like a thin mint
cookie. This wine has structured tannins and medium
weight, with a sweet-spice tinge to the close. Drink now.
Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $13
86
Bersano 2011 Monteolivo Moscato
d’Asti. Sweet, fragrant and beautifully intense,
this bright Moscato d’Asti would pair with fruit salad
or sponge cake with fresh strawberries and whipped
cream. The close is creamy and frothy. Vin Divino. Best
Buy. —M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $11
J. Garcia Carrion 2010 Opera
Prima Sweet Pink Rosé (La
Mancha). Good for the style, which is
sweet and lightly bubbly. Smells melony,
then feels fresh and lively in the mouth.
Sure, there’s lots of residual sugar, but for
a Moscato-type wine the tropical fruit and
cotton candy flavors work well. Decidedly
not cloying. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $8
WineMag.com | 11
close—that revives and refreshes the palate. A Marc de
Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
95
San Polo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
San Polo delivers a stellar 2007 Brunello with
incredible density, concentration and personality. It
starts off soft, smooth and supple until those still-young
tannins appear on the close, giving the wine a firm backbone. Black fruit, cherry, rum cake, plum, black pepper
and cured meat characterize the bouquet. In all, this is a
beautiful ensemble with layers of beauty and freshness.
Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
95
Tenimenti Angelini 2007 Val di Suga
(Brunello di Montalcino). This attractive
Brunello presents a wild, brambly side, with aromas
of wild mushroom, forest floor, small berry and crème
de cassis. It boasts a beautiful, deep color and plenty of
concentration, with endnotes of spice, leather and dried
tobacco leaf. The mouthfeel is solid, well defined and
superbly structured. Vin Divino. —M.L.
Price: $61
abv: NA
94
Bonacchi 2007 Molino della Suga
(Brunello di Montalcino). A huge difference
from last vintage, this is soft, supple, dense and enduring, with loads of fruit intensity and a plush, spicy richness. Black fruit, rum cake, cherry liqueur and smoked
bacon on the close. Modern, bold and very bright.
Baum Wine Imports Inc. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
94
Caprili 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This
is an austere and sophisticated expression of
Sangiovese Grosso, with dried tobacco and spice backed
by prune and currant. The fruit is ripe and mature without being overtly jammy, chewy or too sweet. In fact,
it presents a savory-sophisticated front with ample concentration and a polished texture. Good aging potential.
Admiralty Beverage. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $55
94
Castello Banfi 2007 Poggio alle Mura
(Brunello di Montalcino). Named after one
of the most beautiful stone castles in Europe, Poggio
alle Mura is a dark and compelling wine that shows a
clean quality, a fresh mouthfeel and excellent length.
Beautiful fruit intensity with cherry, blackberry, spice,
leather and tobacco describe the bouquet. Good aging
potential. Banfi Vintners. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $82
94
Castello Romitorio 2007 Brunello di
Montalcino. This is a lovely Brunello with
black cherry, plum, smoke, bacon, leather and a drying
touch of crushed mineral on the nose. It is rich and concentrated, with a slightly sweet-smelling bouquet. The
mouthfeel is compact, tight and polished—but there is
excellent length too. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
94
Citille di Sopra 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Inky-dark concentration segues to
bold berry notes and loads of dark, deep fruit: plum,
prune, blackberry and rum cake. There are also pretty
dustings of dry mineral and dried herb at the back. This
12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
is a bold Brunello with power, determination, structure
and balance. It needs at least 10 years of cellar aging.
Siena Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $60
94
Col d’Orcia 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
For full review see page 4.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $63
94
Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello opens with an
intense, dark garnet color and shows lush softness and
ripe blackberry fruit with perfumed notes of blue flower, plum cake and sweet spice. The mouthfeel is characterized by firm structure and yielding tannins. Banville
& Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
94
Fattoria Scopone 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A pleasurable, opulent wine with rich
tones of cherry and sweet chocolate backed by dense
concentration and extraction. Plush, ripe, modern, soft
and dense; a real crowd-pleaser. Soft, thick texture with
loads of spice, dark fruit and staying power. Superior
Wines LLC. —M.L.
Price: $50
abv: 14%
94
Fornacina 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
This Brunello offers bright aromas with lively
cherry, cola, humus, dark spice and pipe tobacco, as
well as savory tones of beef bresaola and even a touch of
white peppercorn. Impressive complexity. Elegant and
streamlined on the close. Villa Italia. Cellar Selection.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $64
94
La Fortuna 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
La Fortuna Brunello shows a distinctive nose
with a vein of sweet spice that holds up the plump fruit.
You’ll find rum cake, cinnamon bun, Christmas spice
and chocolate-covered cherry. It’s soft, plush and rich
on the finish, with a lingering note of sweetness that
drives its cheerful personality. MHW, Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $49
94
La Magia 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. La
Magia Brunello is a brooding, masculine wine
filled with tobacco smoke and cigar box. At the back
are tones of dried fruit, blackberry preserves, crème de
cassis and prune. It shows wonderful intensity and elegance with loads of personality. Spice, black pepper and
bitter chocolate also appear on the long, silky finish. It
promises to age well. BCI Wine and Beer. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
94
La Velona 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
A bold, plump and soft expression of Brunello,
with sweet berry fruit, chocolate fudge, cinnamon spice
and marzipan. The wine’s appearance is dark and well
extracted. Despite the grandeur of the nose, the mouthfeel is compact, tight and firm. Tutto Vino. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
94
Máté 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. The
ripe fruit element is perfectly contained and
just short of seeming overdone or jammy. It’s soft and
round, with loads of oak-driven spice, like cinnamon
and ground clove, and plump tones of red cherry, black-
berry and plum. What’s really nice is the freshness and
overall supple texture. Vinilandia USA. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $70
94
Molino di Sant’Antimo 2007 Brunello di
Montalcino. Well stitched together with a
broad, wide assembly of dark fruit, spice and cola-like
aromas. All the wine’s elements sing loud as a single
chorus; bold, plush, chewy. Ends with ripe fruit, rum
cake, pipe tobacco and dark espresso bean. Firm, great
length. Delectatio Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
94
Pietranera 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Opens with dark concentration and ripe berry
fruit with layers of plum, blackberry, dark chocolate,
pipe tobacco, cherry liqueur, cola and underbrush. It
offers a wonderful 360-degree portrait of Sangiovese
Grosso. Tight structure, integration and loads of fruity
intensity. Drink after 2018. Soilair Selection. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
Price: $45
abv: 14%
94
Pieve Santa Restituta 2007 Sugarille
(Brunello di Montalcino). Bold and elegant
at the same time. Packs a powerful punch in a silk glove.
Intense aromas of ripe fruit, spice, cherry liqueur, cola,
dried sage and cigar box. The mouthfeel is pristine and
structured, with a precise, tonic and streamlined impact. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection.
—M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $190
94
Poggiarellino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A nice surprise. Great density and richness
with layers of dark fruit and spice. Thick concentration and a bold, confident presentation. Plush texture,
length and density. Age 5–10 more years. Premier Wine
Co. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
94
Poggio Antico 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A whiff of fresh flowers from a rose garden
or a lavender field makes for a nice first impression. Beyond that is dark fruit, black cherry and crème de cassis. Shadings of lead pencil, leather and tobacco fill in
the rear. This Brunello presents a soft, round mouthfeel
with cherry flavors capped by tight structure. The Sorting Table. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $79
94
Poggio il Castellare 2007 Brunello di
Montalcino. Loads of balsam intensity with
eucalyptus, ground ginger, cola, dried fruit and crème
de cassis. This wine also adds a pretty floral note of red
rose petal or potpourri that really steals the show. Loads
of balance and complexity. Smooth, long finish, good
length. Drink after 2015. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
94
Tenuta di Sesta 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Tenuta di Sesta is run by a perfect father-mother-daughter-son team and is located in one
of the least-traveled corners of Montalcino. The 2007
Brunello delivers sweet oak tones that drive the initial
bouquet and are soon followed by bright cherry, vanilla
bean, sweet mocha and rum cake. Pretty balsam notes
at the back will undoubtedly increase and evolve with
age. Cellar this wine 10 years. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
Price: $90
abv: 14%
94
Tenuta La Fuga 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Gorgeous, beautiful Brunello. Dark
concentration and excellent intensity. Loads of complexity that peels back slowly layer after layer as the
wine evolves. Rock-solid structure and freshness that
point to a happy cellar evolution. Aromas of dark fruit,
cola, cured meat, balsam, dried herb, tobacco and leather. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
Price: $65
abv: 14.5%
94
Uccelliera 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Austere, tight and sophisticated, this well-extracted Brunello shows dry aromas of crushed granite
along with ethereal tones of dried ginger, black licorice
and root beer. Inky appearance with chewy richness.
The mouthfeel is round, chewy and packed with sweet
fruit and spice. Drink after 2015. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. Cellar Selection.
—M.L.
Price: $72
abv: 15%
94
Verbena 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Here’s a gorgeous wine with a deep, inky color
and super extraction that is elegant but powerful at the
same time. This is a balanced wine, but it’s also an intense wine, with loads of ripe fruit, spice and tobacco.
It feels smooth and rich, with a finely crafted texture
that is velvety and supple. Michael R. Downey Selections. —M.L.
Price: $55
abv: 14%
93
Bonacchi 2007 Casalino (Brunello di
Montalcino). A lovely, lush wine with bold,
direct aromas of ripe cherry, cured meat, blackberry
preserves and exotic spice. It presents a clean and fresh
mouthfeel, with solid structure on the long finish. Baum
Wine Imports Inc. —M.L.
Price: $25
abv: 13.5%
93
Canalicchio di Sopra 2007 Brunello di
Montalcino. Opulent tones of toasted espresso
bean and soft chocolate fudge play a supporting role to
bold berry and dried raspberry. Background floral tones
of dried lavender and red rose. There’s a touch of earthiness, too, with button mushroom and forest floor. Tannins are nicely polished and firm. Streamlined, elegant.
Vinifera Imports. —M.L.
Price: $63
abv: 14.5%
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Capanne Ricci 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Textbook Brunello nose from a warm
vintage. It grabs from a wide array of elements at its disposal, with balsam, cola and humus, backed by ripe fruit
and dark cherry. More layers appear as leather, earth
and cured meat. Great complexity and balance. Closes elegant, fresh and clean. Montcalm Wine Importers.
—M.L.
Price: $50
abv: 14.5%
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Castiglion del Bosco 2007 Campo del
Drago (Brunello di Montalcino). Youthful,
bright and direct in its bold cherry and blueberry aromas. Vinous, chewy and raw with more evolution ahead.
Chewy density with bold concentration and ripe fruit.
Give it 4–6 more years. USA Wine West. —M.L.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $80
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Citille di Sopra 2007 Vigna Poggio Ronconi (Brunello di Montalcino). Big, bold
and dark in style. Loads of exotic spice, soy sauce, Teriyaki, cured meat, ripe fruit and savory peppercorn. The
mouthfeel is thick and soft. Definitely for those who
like bold personality in their Tuscan red. Siena Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $80
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Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2007 Prime
Donne (Brunello di Montalcino). Toasted,
tight, even gritty in spots, with firm tannins and bold
aromas. The wine shows power and personality, with
ripe fruit, spice, leather, tobacco and thick density. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
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Fanti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This
fine and delicate Brunello shows soft elegance
and sophistication in the form of cassis, wild berry,
white pepper, root beer, toasted nut and cigar tobacco.
The mouthfeel is firm and clean, with elements of tannic structure and fresh acidity that work well together.
The oak element still needs time to integrate. Sherbrooke Cellars. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $70
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Fossacolle 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Pretty savory tones and barbecue aromas combine to create a bold Brunello. Ripe fruit, black pepper,
rum cake, black currant and blackberry preserves all appear in the background. Silky-smooth and firm, it shows
a clean, sharp, bold close. Vias Imports. —M.L.
Price: $48
abv: 14.5%
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Gianni Brunelli 2007 Le Chiuse (Brunello
di Montalcino). Pretty textbook Brunello with
smooth bright berry nuances packed in a traditional,
tight body. Good acidity and firmness with well structured, silky tannin. Acid Inc Selections. —M.L.
Price: $75
abv: 14%
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Il Paradiso di Frassina 2007 Brunello di
Montalcino. More spice than ripe fruit characteristics here. There’s a dark, savory note of smoked
ham or bacon as well, with back-end notes of cola and
root beer. Warm, wintery personality. Streamlined and
polished in the mouth. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L.
Price: $75
abv: 13.5%
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Il Valentiano 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A bold, plush pleasure bomb with thick layers of bright cherry and chocolate. Loads of tobacco,
spice and new leather. Huge intensity and bold aromas.
Fresh oak notes of vanilla and cinnamon show first signs
of integration. A bold, modern Brunello with some tannic astringency. Vidalco International, LLC. —M.L.
Price: $60
abv: 14%
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Fattoi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A
Brunello with broad shoulders and a powerful
bouquet that delivers bright, bold aromas of ripe fruit,
dark spice, leather and dried tobacco. The wine’s structure and dark fruit flavors move evenly over the palate
with smoothness and harmony. Tricana Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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Fattoria dei Barbi 2007 Vigna del Fiore (Brunello di Montalcino). Delicate embroidered with sage, eucalyptus, cola, wild berry, white
cherry, rum cake and savory spice, this wine shows the
kind of pretty berry aromas that are brighter than they
are intense. In fact, the wine shows elegant restraint
with the potential for a beautiful evolution in the bottle.
Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $90
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Fattoria La Lecciaia 2007 Vigna Manapetra (Brunello di Montalcino). A vineyarddesignated Brunello with sharp clarity and purity. Sangiovese aromas of wild berry, earth, pressed blue flower
and forest floor. Lively and direct on the palate, with
integrated acidity and firm structure. Monsieur Touton
Selection Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $48
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Fattoria Scopone 2007 L’Olivare (Brunello di Montalcino). Bright, textbook, loads of
Sangiovese intensity with complexity and tight aromas
of wild berry, blueberry, almond, white pepper, spice
and rum cake. Tight and streamlined in the mouth.
Needs more time to soften with cellar aging. Superior
Wines LLC. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
La Mannella 2007 I Poggiarelli (Brunello di Montalcino). Opulent and floral, with
pressed rose and blue violets. Soapy aromas with church
incense and cinnamon potpourri. Very enduring and intense with tight, firm tannins and good length. Casa Torelli . —M.L.
Price: $55
abv: 14.5%
La Poderina 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Opens with dark concentration and syrupy aromas of cherry liqueur, blackberry preserves and cassis
concentrate. The wine is soft, plump and chewy, with a
smooth, thick quality to its texture that makes it a natural pairing partner to red meat. Vias Imports. —M.L.
Price: $62
abv: 14%
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Le Potazzine 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Here’s an austere, sophisticated wine, with
a pretty garnet color and finely polished aromas of cassis, wild berry, cola, wet river stone, barbecue smoke
and bresaola. There’s good complexity and integration and this Brunello delivers satisfying freshness and
balanced acidity. A Marc de Grazia selection; various
American importers. —M.L.
Price: $72
abv: 14%
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Lisini 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Stands
out for its complexity and length, showcasing
cherry liqueur, blackberry preserves, root beer, dried
ginger and Spanish cedar. There’s an exotic Asian quality to this Brunello that adds interest. Solid, shapely and
velvety in the mouth. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
Price: $80
abv: 14.5%
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Mastrojanni 2007 Vigna Loreto (Brunello di Montalcino). Inky, ripe, nicely extracted
WineMag.com | 13
and loaded tight with blackberry, spice and cherry aromas, this is a beautiful Brunello that delivers intensity,
staying power and promises easy food-pairing potential.
Velvety, soft, rich and plush in the mouth. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $120
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Palazzo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Shows sweet blackberry or cherry liqueur aromas, followed by spice, leather and moist pipe tobacco.
Coffee or dark espresso, too. Well structured, firm and
extracted, with good intensity and staying power. Drink
after 2018. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
between fruit and spice. Thick tannins need more time
to age and soften. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
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Tenuta Carlina 2007 la Togata (Brunello
di Montalcino). Deep garnet in color, with
dark amber highlights. There’s loads of intensity here,
with ripe, syrupy fruit, blackberry preserves, prune and
dark plum. On the savory side, the wine presents an
even succession of leather, tobacco and cedar. It’s soft,
generous and thickly textured on the luscious finish.
Panebianco. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $72
bright cherry fruit, mocha and vanilla bean. The wine’s
flavors are more savory, with some background notes of
forest floor and wild mushroom. The mouthfeel is firm
and steady, but also fresh and compact. Vias Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
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Castelli Martinozzi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Bright and plump, very lively Sangiovese fruit. There’s smooth richness and great staying
power to the wine’s black fruit and exotic spice. Alnam
Wine for All. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $42
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Tenuta San Giorgio 2007 Ugolforte
(Brunello di Montalcino). Features sweet
fruit, plum, prune and a savory element of spice and
smoke; loads of leather and tobacco as well. Deep rich,
concentration and a plush, velvety feel. Oak tones must
still integrate, but promise a nice future. Majestic Imports. —M.L.
Price: $30
abv: 14.5%
Castello Banfi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Garnet-ruby in color, with hues of amber
at the rim. Oak tones of spice and toasted nut still need
time to integrate. The wine is bright and slightly astringent, with a firm, polished disposition, but has nice fruit
tones of currant and cassis. Give it a few more years in
the cellar. Banfi Vintners. —M.L.
Price: $55
abv: 14%
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Tenuta Vitanza 2007 Tradizione (Brunello di Montalcino). Thick and dark, with generous fruit, spice, leather and tobacco. This is a wine
that does not hold back from an aromatic point of view.
Mouthfeel is tight, firm and ends with polished tannins.
Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
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Quattroventi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Loads of lush cinnamon, spice, dark fruit
and overall intensity. Supple and velvety with cherry,
raspberry, vanilla and espresso bean. . —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
Altesino 2007 Montosoli (Brunello di
Montalcino). Oak spice, bramble, toasted almond, chocolate, spice, dark fruit and rum cake all
make appearances. This is tight, firm, straightforward
yet generous. The oak element will soften with more
years of cellar aging. Save for 5–10 years. Winebow.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $100
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PianCornello 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Dark, inky and thick, this hearty Brunello
begs for grilled steak. It opens with ripe fruit—blackberry, plum and prune—and has a background rendering of spice, leather and cigar box. It shows a big, bold
style, with loads of soft density and opulence. Good
structure, too. Drink after 2015. Superior Wines LLC.
Cellar Selection. —M.L.
Price: $60
abv: 14.5%
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Poggio Antico 2007 Altero (Brunello di
Montalcino). Pretty ensemble of bright fruit,
spice and cured meat, with ample concentration. Plump
and round in the mouth, with loads of aromatic intensity. The mouthfeel is tight and chiseled. The Sorting
Table. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $94
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Poggio Nardone 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. There’s an exotic, almost Indian personality, with aromas of dark spice, clove and cardamom. Black fruit, prune and currant are also in evidence. Bold, black and inky thick. It’s soft, round and
long on the close with pretty freshness, too. Michael
Skurnik Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
San Filippo di Giannelli 2007 Le Lucére
(Brunello di Montalcino). Loads of balsam
intensity and an array of dried herb, red fruit, wild berry, cedar wood and forest floor aromas. It’s very full and
generous in the mouth, with firm, but polished tannin.
A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
San Polino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Luscious dark fruit and huge aromatic complexity: dark red cherry, crème de cassis, black licorice,
dried ginger and ground pepper. Defined and tight in
the mouth, with a long finish. T. Edward Wines Ltd.
—M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $65
Siro Pacenti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A wine that speaks of territory and tradition, it’s clean, polished and pristine, with a nice balance
14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
Terralsole 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Shows balance and integration and a dark, inky
appearance. Blackberry, plum cake, cinnamon bun,
leather and tobacco aromas. Chewy, ripe mouthfeel
frames plush fruit, while the dusty, structured finish
features loads of dried tobacco leaf. Terralsole. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $75
Belpoggio 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Bright cherry cola and root beer notes veer
beautifully onto the balsam side, with dried ginger and
chopped mint. Some firm tannic astringency needs to
soften with time, and there’s a drying mineral tone that
holds it all together. Vino Direct. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $44
Brunelli 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
A very dusty, dry expression of Brunello, with
tones of crushed stone and talcum powder. It’s nice
when a wine adds that mineral touch at the back of red
fruit and spice, as it gives the bouquet firmness and
backbone. Cherry, blackberry, cola and rum cake are all
there. The mouthfeel is structured, dry and compact.
Small Vineyards LLC. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
Camigliano 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello opens with a sweet nose of
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Castiglion del Bosco 2007 Brunello di
Montalcino. Smoke and dark fruit, with a
touch of drying mineral and softer background tones
of chocolate and rum cake. There’s a very polished, dry
feel to this wine. The oak notes are still integrating, and
the finish is tight and firm. USA Wine West. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $60
Collemattoni 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This wine features thick, luscious tones
and bright notes of forest fruit and underbrush. There’s
a tight, bold quality to the tannins that suggests this
wine needs more time to age. Give it 10 more years,
as its very dense and masculine in the mouth. Vignaioli.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $67
Conti Costanti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. An attractive, rich style of Brunello with
loads of aromatic intensity. There’s cherry liqueur, rum
cake, cola, toasted almond, savory spice, cured meat and
tobacco. A pure, clean, long, silky close displays good
structure and acidity. Drink after 2016. Empson (USA)
Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $82
Cordella 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Opens with a sweet opulent nose driven by aromas of plump cherry, moist pipe tobacco, chocolate
fudge, vanilla bean and ground espresso. But the wine is
not modern or overtly international in terms of its style.
It shows deep roots in Montalcino tradition and a bold,
overt personality. Earth, leather and dried tobacco drive
the finish. North Berkeley Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
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Cupano 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Dark in color and thickly extracted, with savory
notes of cured meat, beef jerky, tobacco and leather.
Fruit tones resemble dried strawberry, prune and dark
plum, giving this wine a ripe, earthy feel. Closes soft,
plush and spicy. Verdeor Select Vintages. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $110
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Donna Olga 2007 Le Cacce in Villa
(Brunello di Montalcino). Beautiful and sophisticated aromas of dried sage, eucalyptus, cola, wild
berry and forest floor lead into a wine with a linear, long,
polished and pretty berry nuances on the finish. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
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Geografico Castello Tricerchi 2007
Brunello di Montalcino. Gorgeous, deep,
inky-black and intense. What sets this wine apart is the
drying mineral tone of crushed granite that gives it direction and backbone. It’s soft and plush on the palate,
with round tones of ripe fruit and sweet spice. Nice
density and structure, too, with a spicy aftertaste. Monarchia Matt International. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
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Il Marroneto 2007 Selezione Madonna
delle Grazie (Brunello di Montalcino).
Bold fruit layers of red cherry, plum, blackberry, spice,
cola and chocolate mark this wine. The quality of the
fruit is still raw and bright and could use several years of
cellar aging. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L.
Price: $60
abv: 14%
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Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2007 Brunello di
Montalcino. This gorgeous Brunello is packed
tight with personality and intensity. The wine is redolent of candied cherry, blackberry, rum cake, cinnamon
bread and dried ginger. It shows steely, firm structure
and a tightly knit texture. Compact, sharp and decisive.
Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
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Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2007 Bramante Cosimi (Brunello di Montalcino). Dense, lush
and bold, this wine shows red cherry, blackberry, rum
cake, cinnamon spice and dark chocolate. The wine’s
concentration is particularly attractive and adds momentum to the already long finish. Easy, soft and almost
ready to drink now. Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
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Innocenti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Marked by chocolate, leather, tobacco, espresso, dark licorice and loads of pretty blackberry fruit, this
is a defined, focused wine with a crisp, pristine personality. Mission Wine Company. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 14%
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La Serena 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Smoky overtones of barbecue and pipe tobacco
fill in the background and provide a platform for all the
busy cherry and ripe berry notes presented on the nose.
It’s a big, bold style with loads of savory spice, black pepper and smoked bacon. Drink after 2015. A Marc de
Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
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Mastrojanni 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Here’s a dark, austere expression of Brunello,
with layers of exotic spice, toasted nut, cardamom and
forest underbrush. Small berry fruit comes through as
raspberry and black currant. In the mouth, the wine is
bright, defined and firm, showing solid tannic structure.
Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $95
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Mocali 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Here’s an oak-driven Brunello that needs time
to evolve—give it five years or more. Glimmers of
bright fruit emerge despite the presence of toasted almond, cedar wood and vanilla extract. The wine is concentrated with soft tannins and a lovely rich feel in the
mouth.Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
Tenuta Crocedimezzo 2007 Brunello di
Montalcino. Pretty floral notes rise to the
top: lavender and pressed rose. That intense floral element gives the wine an elegant, sophisticated personality that’s tight and structured, with great balance
between firm tannins and bright acidity. Aventine Hill
LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $60
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Mocali 2007 Vigna delle Raunate (Brunello di Montalcino). Bold fruit and oak-driven
notes display broad brush strokes of cherry, clove, cinnamon and vanilla bean. Smooth, rich velvety mouthfeel. This is still young, fruity and vinous; let it age 10
years or more. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $70
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Tenuta Oliveto 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Bold and concentrated, with a dark, extracted appearance and tones of ripe fruit and spice. There
are savory notes of barbecue sauce and cured bacon as
well. The wine is thick and full in the mouth, with textured tannins and an extroverted personality. Drink after 2018. IMA Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $59
Piccini 2007 Villa al Cortile (Brunello di
Montalcino). Bright, buoyant delivery with
the kind of aromas that pop. Think cola, balsam, eucalyptus, dried ginger and crushed black pepper. The
fruit is subtle and delicate, reminiscent of forest berry
and cassis. The wine’s structure is firm and solid without being too biting and there’s fresh acidity, too. Aveniù
Brands, Inc. —M.L.
Price: $50
abv: 13.5%
Tiezzi 2007 Vigna Soccorso (Brunello di
Montalcino). Youthful fruit tones of cherry
and raw blackberry set the stage. Those bold fruit layers will evolve slowly with more cellar aging, integrating with the light spice, tobacco, cedar and earth. The
mouthfeel is bold, round and long-lasting. Michael
Skurnik Wines. —M.L.
Price: $42
abv: 13.5%
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Podere Paganico 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Mineral tones and oak tones will integrate with time. With the wine’s other notes of black
cherry, licorice, bresaola, white pepper and black currant. Beautiful harmony and intensity, with a firm, silky
signature on the finish. Saranty Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
San Filippo di Giannelli 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Dark fruit and fresh oak
tones still need time to integrate—give this Brunello a
few more years of bottle age. Chocolate, exotic spice,
cherry, blackberry, leather and pipe tobacco on the
nose; smooth berry richness and a tight, firm feel in the
mouth. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American
importers. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
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San Lorenzo 2007 Bramante (Brunello di
Montalcino). Ripe fruit, prune, sticky pipe tobacco and rum cake notes are bold and big, with thick
aromatic embroidery and broader brush strokes. Structured and incredibly smooth on the finish. This wine
shows a fine, velvety texture. Vos Vinum Importing Ltd.
—M.L.
Price: $50
abv: 14%
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San Polino 2007 Helichrysum (Brunello
di Montalcino). Balsam notes of cola, deep
spice, forest floor, sage and eucalyptus are long and
ethereal. This is polished and bright with fine, firm tannins. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $75
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Sesta di Sopra 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A ripe sweet style, with blackberry and
cherry liqueur, leather, tobacoo, rum cake and graham
cracker. This wine’s polished, distinctive finish features
a rich, velvety feel. Premier Wine Co. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
Tornesi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
There’s a nicely perfumed element to the nose
that recalls pressed blue flower or lavender potpourri. Bold berry and currant undertones form a base of
plumpness and richness. Light shadings of spice and
toasted nut drive the mouthfeel. Structured and firm.
Fourcade & Hecht Wine Selections. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
Valdicava 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
This Brunello opens with inky, dark concentration and ripe aromas of prune, plum and blackberry. It’s
packed tight with savory spices, such as ground clove
and cardamom, and it also offers a full load of ripe (but
not jammy) black fruit. It feels thick and textured on
the palate, with tannins that will soften with 5–10 more
years of bottle aging. There’s a touch of cherry sweetness on the close. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $110
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Altesino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A
dark, masculine, brooding Brunello, with savory aromas of leather and cured meat behind ripe fruit
and blackberry. It’s tight and clean, with a streamlined
mouthfeel that testifies to the wine’s firm tannic structure. Executed in a traditional style, it shows possibilities for long-term aging. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
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Argiano 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A
youthful, oak-driven Brunello that needs more
time to integrate. Ripe, plummy fruit shows chewy, rich
density, then folds in blackberry, cherry, spice, leather and tobacco. Still tight in the mouth. Vias Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
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Canneta 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
This Brunello presents a classic, textbook bouquet with red fruit, spice, cola and pressed flowers—but
with a subdued, mild delivery. The wine shows aromatic
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intensity but not in an exaggerated fashion. The tannins
are dry, firm and dusty and there’s a wood-driven finish
of spice and rolled pipe tobacco. Orvino Imports & Distribution. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
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Donna Olga 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Inky dark concentration combines with a youthful, almost grapy quality in the mouth. Cola, chewy
fruit, ripe density and exotic spices all are present while
the mouthfeel is lean, crisp and structured. . —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Fattoria dei Barbi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Licorice, ripe fruit, ginger, lemon zest,
crushed stone, cassis and wild berry notes are bold,
but in the mouth the wine is lean and compact, with a
particularly bright and fresh feel in the mouth. There’s
even a menthol note at the very end. Pasternak Wine
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $49
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Fattoria La Lecciaia 2007 Brunello di
Montalcino. Spice and bright notes of dried
tobacco, ginger, cola and black pepper mark this wine,
which displays deep richness and intensity. Crisp, clean
finish. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
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Fuligni 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Here’s a youthful expression of Sangiovese
Grosso in which the grape’s trademark acidity and fruity
brightness shine through. Cherry, white almond, dried
raspberry and rum cake notes present a soft, chewy feel
in the mouth, although the overall structure is solid.
Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $90
structure keep it firmly in place. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
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La Fornace 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
This wine displays pretty, feminine aromas and
a bright mouthfeel. A polished mineral note follows red
berry, cassis and plum. Drying tannins provide ample
structure. Vignaioli. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
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La Pieve 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
This Brunello offers a distinctive note of spice,
leather, moist earth or porcino mushroom at the start
that slowly segues to dried fruit, prune and black currant. There’s also cured beef and smoked bacon fat. It
offers, big, plush and bold tones with chewy concentration and sweet cherry fruit on the close. David Vincent
Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
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Lambardi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Concentrated and dense, with bold red fruit,
deep spice notes and overtones of tobacco, bresaola,
leather and cigar box. It’s a bold, masculine wine but
restrained and elegant at the same time. Despite the
bold bouquet, the mouthfeel is rather compact and
firm. It leaves the palate refreshed. Petit Pois Corporation. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 14%
credibly dense, making this wine almost above food
pairing (try it with aged cheese). Very structured, but
ripe tannins. Age 10 years or more. Angelini Wine.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
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Tenute Silvio Nardi 2007 Brunello di
Montalcino. Black licorice, cola and cherry
liqueur open the nose and segue to black currant and
crème de cassis aromas, then forest floor, bramble and
Spanish cedar. This wine is linear, crisp and tight on the
palate, with firm tannins. Give the wine five more years
to soften. Kobrand. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $70
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Terre Nere 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Cassis, cola, leather, dried ginger, dried spice,
cherry and black licorice all play out on this wine’s
smooth, silky finish. Very nice length with a smooth,
silky endnote. Ripe tannins balance crisp acidity. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
91
Tiezzi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Lean,
compact and crisp, this Brunello is redolent of
oak spice, ripe fruit, cured meat, rum cake and leather.
It shows a sharply focused mouthfeel with tight structure and a streamlined feel. Michael Skurnik Wines.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $37
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Podere La Vigna 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A dark, garnet-colored appearance
with brooding, masculine tones of spice, ripe fruit, dark
cherry, as well as beautiful balsam notes of cola, dried
mint and ginger. Balanced, not overdone. Let the tannins soften with age. Royalty Importers. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $67
Villa Le Prata 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Lead pencil and mineral dryness upfront
followed by dark fruit, blackberry and rum cake. The
wine presents a soft round mouthfeel, with ample structure and length. Lingering barbecue and ripe fruit mark
the close.Vinity Wine Company. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $59
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Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2007 Terra Rossa
(Brunello di Montalcino). Very oak driven,
with notes of cinnamon, vanilla, exotic spice, toasted coconut and dark chocolate. There is dark fruit, like cherry and blackberry, at the back. Ripe tannins impart a
plush, rich mouthfeel and loads of dense, chewy intensity. Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
Il Poggione 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Inky-black appearance. Ripe, concentrated
notes of blackberry and raspberry jam are framed by
bold tannins with an astringent bite at the end. Terlato
Wines International. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $80
91
La Cerbaiola 2007 Salvioni (Brunello di
Montalcino). A full-bodied wine with cured
meat, barbecue, black fruit, toasted almond, leather and
tobacco aromas. It feels smooth and opulent, with good
structure and a velvety texture. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $167
91
La Collina dei Lecci 2007 Brunello di
Montalcino. Classic Brunello, albeit in a bold,
dense style. Delicate, ethereal Sangiovese accents
emerge, but the wine is also packed tight with modern
aromas of spice, leather and dark chocolate. It shows
nice balance and complexity. Textured tannins and tight
16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
San Felice 2007 Campogiovanni (Brunello di Montalcino). Inky-dark and superconcentrated. Notes of coal, licorice, crushed peppercorn,
river stone and dark fruit are so big and bold, it’s hard to
imagine with which foods it would pair best. Premium
Brands. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $60
Sesti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Tobacco, dried fruit, cassis, currant, blackberry
and old leather notes mark the nose. Finely textured
and polished, with a mineral tone, leather, ripe fruit and
prune flavors. A pretty, elegant expression of Montalcino and of Sangiovese. Bright acidity, too. Kermit Lynch
Wine Merchant. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
91
Tenuta Friggiali 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Bright delivery with aromas of cola,
root beer, humus, crème de cassis, forest berry and wild
raspberry. It shows finely textured tannins with a bitter
almond or bitter chocolate aftertaste. Brambly, sharp,
acidic and well defined. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
91
Tenute Niccolai 2007 Podere Bellarina
(Brunello di Montalcino). Aromas of blackberry, plum cake, leather, Indian spice, crushed stone,
black pepper and teriyaki sauce. The extraction is in-
91
Casato1 2007 Voliero (Brunello di Montalcino). An inky-black appearance and spicysavory aromas make this the kind of Brunello you want
to drink on a really cold winter night. Tightly concentrated and extracted, with loads of black cherry, leather
and tobacco, there are balsam notes too, but delivered
in a big, strong fashion. The smooth, silky finish that is
not overly dense or intense. A Marc de Grazia selection;
various American importers. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
90
Collelceto 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
A bright, lively Brunello that happily sheds all
pretense. It’s a wine that communicates Sangiovese
Grosso in a straightforward, confident and natural manner. There’s bright berry fruit, firm structure and a lean,
compact mouthfeel with silky tannins. But don’t mistake
this for a simple wine. It’s not. It shows delicate complexity and elegance. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
90
La Palazzetta 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A youthful, bold Brunello with exotic spice,
dark vanilla bean, leather, toasted oak and chestnut.
Background tones include bramble, wild berry, blueberry and cola. Bright and firm on the finish. T. Edward
Wines Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
90
Lazzeretti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Here is a clean, straightforward Brunello with
pretty aromas of wild berry, vanilla, leather, spice and
rum cake. It shows a genuine, frank style with a sweet,
velvety close. Pacific Wine Distributors. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
90
Marchesi Antinori 2007 Pian delle Vigne
(Brunello di Montalcino). Bramble and forest floor, cherry cola and savory bresaola notes amount
to pretty aromatics with less bulkiness in the mouth.
The structure is there but this wine is a bit dry, sharp
and less fleshy than many others.Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $80
90
Pecci Celestino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Spice, cherry liqueur, dark fruit, leather and moist tobacco comprise the bouquet. Structured
and firm, the wine delivers a clean, focused feel. Palateur Imports. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $79
90
Poggio Rubino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A bright and direct Brunello with aromatic intensity in the form of small berry, almond skin,
toasted espresso and nut notes. There’s a charred, toasted element to the wine that at this young stage adds
some astringency to the mouthfeel. Finishes firm and
crisp. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
90
Solaria 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Some charred almond or toast aromas join with
black berry and crushed granite in this full and generous
wine. Nice linear quality allows the berry fruit to glide
over a long smooth finish. Good structure and intensity
but not overdone. Elliott Bay Distributing Co. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
browning rim. Savory aromas of cured meat, cola, dried
fruit and rum cake upfront, while warm earthy, tobacco and leather tones fill in the rear. Sophisticated and
rich, reminiscent of a storied, nostalgic Brunello tradition. Generous, but with a firm, drying feel on the finish. K&L Wine Merchants. —M.L.
Price: $45
abv: 14.5%
89
Baricci 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. The
wine is subdued and clean on the nose and it
doesn’t exaggerate or mask the quality of fruit. This is
executed in a bright, compact and streamlined style that
combines freshness and firmness. Premier Wine Co.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
89
Bellaria 2007 Assunto (Brunello di Montalcino). Some superripe notes of strawberry
jam and candied fruit lead into notes of rum cake, cherry liqueur and cured meat. A bold, masculine mouthfeel
comes courtesy of firm, structured tannins. Terra Verus
Trading Co. LP. —M.L.
Price: $54
abv: 14.5%
89
Bonacchi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Big and bold, but a bit disjointed aromatically. Ripe fruit and pipe tobacco vie with a fine note of
graphite or lead pencil. It seems soft, with a touch of
sweetness, but crisp tannins. Give it a few more years to
unwind. Finishes thick and chewy. Baum Wine Imports
Inc. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
89
Cantina di Montalcino 2007 Brunello di
Montalcino. A bright nose of cherry, vanilla
and rum cake leads into a moderately intense midpalate, with bright endnotes of dried mint and ginger on
the cool, crisp finish. Wine Wave. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $46
Talenti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Cola, black licorice, cherry liqueur and rum
cake presage loads of ripe fruit and power. Yet it’s lean
and compact on the finish, with bright acidity that
would pair well with pecorino stagionato or any aged
cheese.Robert Chadderdon Selections. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
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Collosorbo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Here’s a tight, streamlined Brunello characterized by a toasted or charred almond note and bright forest notes of wild berry and underbrush. The mouthfeel
is lean and tight, and there’s a tannic firmness that holds
it together. Frank Johnson Selections. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
Villa I Cipressi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello opens with a sweet nose of
vanilla and cherry. The bouquet is straightforward, giving the wine a frank, no-nonsense personality. Flavors of
spice, leather and tobacco appear later, rendering more
depth. It feels youthful, soft and chewy on the close.
A.I. Selections . —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
Il Marroneto 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Nice ripeness, fullness and generosity here.
The bouquet opens with bold brushstrokes that don’t
match the delicate, subdued feel in the mouth. It delivers most of its energy on the nose and segues to a much
calmer, more straightforward style on the close. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45
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Agostina Pieri 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A delicate and subtle expression of Sangiovese Grosso, with tight touches of wild berry, almond
skin, forest bramble, rum cake, cola and eucalyptus.
Streamlined and tight, with great power on the close. A
very compact and tightly constructed wine. Rare Wine
Company. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
89
Baccinetti 2007 Saporoia (Brunello di
Montalcino). Garnet-ruby hue with slightly
La Colombina 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This wine strikes a nice balance between
sweet and savory spice on the nose, with ripe fruit,
prune and leather in the background. This is a velvety,
warm, earthy wine with a broad aromatic delivery and
bold Brunello style. It’s smooth and round, without any
of the sharp acidic accents you sometimes find in Sangiovese Grosso. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
89
La Rasina 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
A bold, inky-black style that is slightly overdone
and a touch overripe. Despite aromas of blackberry preserves, prune and rum cake, this is a strongly masculine
wine that puts its savory side first. The close is packed
tight with smoked bacon and cured beef aromas. Textured tannins create some astringency on the finish.
Montecastelli Selections. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
89
Le Gode 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
This Brunello shows elegant aromatic restraint
in its tight aromas of wild berry and red currant. Dark
flavors of barbecue spice, cured meat, leather and tobacco layer the midpalate, then turn fine and full on the
finish. Conexport. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $80
89
Marchesato degli Aleramici 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. There’s a progression of
aromas here, with some bright candied fruit alongside
rum cake, dried ginger, licorice and forest floor. The
fruit component resembles crème de cassis and red currant. Despite all that pretty movement in the bouquet,
the wine is lean and bright in the mouth, and gets the
job done in terms of keeping the palate refreshed. Fedway Imports. —M.L.
Price: $45
abv: 14%
89
Pinino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This
wine goes from delivering savory spice, cured
meat and smoked bacon to being lean and not too intense or persistent on the close. The alcohol and dry
tannins want more plush fruit for support. USA Wine
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
89
Ridolfi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Spicy wood notes, dark fruit, rum cake, dried
ginger, licorice and cola add up to an ethereal and elegant Brunello that is more smooth and silky than it is
bold and bulky. Spice, sandalwood and cedar appear on
the close, but it has a compact, streamlined structure.
George Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
89
SassodiSole 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A classic Brunello with a savory, aged quality that exudes sophistication and elegance. Dried fruit,
cassis, spice, old leather and rum cake form the bouquet. The wine is finely textured, sharp and clean in
the mouth. Seems aged, savory and austere. The Gullà
Group. —M.L.
Price: $50
abv: 14%
89
Villa Poggio Salvi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. An aging wine with a garnet-ruby color and bricking at the rim. Aromas of barbecue smoke,
cured meat, leather, tobacco and dark fruit give way to
tight, finely textured tannins on the palate. Shaw-Ross
International Importers. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
89
Vini Italiani da Sogno 2007 Carillon
(Brunello di Montalcino). The subtle, subdued nose is of perfumed spice, dried red rose and currant. But there is chewy softness here and enough extraction to hold the wine firm on the palate. The strucWineMag.com | 17
ture is there but the fruit definition is less apparent.
Panebianco. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $60
ble, white almond and cola. Frederick Wildman & Sons,
Ltd. —M.L.
Price: $50
abv: 14%
88
Armilla 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
There’s a dark smoky element to this hearty
Brunello that recalls cured beef, moist earth, cedar,
leather and rum cake. The wine is silky and smooth,
with a noticeably clean quality to the finish.Jao Wine
Imports. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
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Bellaria 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This
wine’s ripe cherry fruit and milk chocolate notes
suggest softness and roundness. But the wine shows astringency and firmness on the close. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $59
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Casa Raia 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Dark, inky and brooding, this thickly extracted
Brunello shows thick layers of ripe cherry, crème de cassis and blackberry with background tones of rum cake,
ground clove, cola, leather and fresh tobacco. There’s
a meaty element of bresaola or smoked bacon as well.
IPO Wines. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $36
88
Col di Lamo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Milk chocolate and sweet cherry aromas appear
alongside cured meat and plump black fruit. This is a
straightforward Brunello with a creamy, soft close. Vignaioli. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $65
88
Ferrero 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Showing youthful oak tones that still need time
to integrate, this wine is a bit sour and ripe at the same
time. Black cherry, tobacco, leather and spice aromas
are nice, but the tannins are firm, and the wine shows a
bright point of acidity on the close and a gritty, cookedfruit finish. K&L Wine Merchants. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
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La Fiorita 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
This hearty Brunello shows a ripe, almost jammy personality with strawberry and raspberry preserve
notes. There are background tones of exotic spice, vanilla and cinnamon that help support the wine’s chewy
fruit. The mouthfeel is soft and velvety. Chambers &
Chambers. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
88
La Torre 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A
pretty ensemble of floral tones, ripe fruit and
toasted almond leads into drying touches of granite and
mineral, with some root beer-like notes. Some raw berry aromas need time to soften. Shows a silky, polished
feel, then turns compact, crisp, firm and clean on the
close. Rosenthal Wine Merchants. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $70
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Le Chiuse 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Charred almond and graham cracker notes
need time to integrate. The wine is compact and lean
in the mouth, with endnotes of small berry fruit, bram18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
Tassi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Subdued on the nose, this wine still needs to stretch
its proverbial muscles. Its flavors of cherry liqueur, rum
cake, blackberry and forest underbrush give voice to a
clean, traditional winemaking philosophy. Wine Emporium. —M.L.
Price: $70
abv: 15%
Livio Sassetti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Almost completely black, this wine reveals
inky-dark concentration and dark, jammy fruit. Shows
power and smoky barbecue aromas of soy sauce, teriyaki, bresaola, cherry liqueur, rum cake, Spanish cedar and sticky pipe tobacco. Cured meat and savory
spice as well. Seems extracted and overripe, with hard
tannins.Massanois Imports. —M.L.
Price: $55
abv: 13.5%
2006 BRUNELLO RISERVA
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Valdicava 2006 Madonna del Piano Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This beautiful
riserva shows enormous thickness and blackness, like
midnight of a new moon. The wine delivers impenetrable density, extraction, black fruit, spice, berry preserves, licorice, asphalt, ground black pepper, cherry liqueur and crème de cassis. There are seemingly no limits to the intensity and complexity here. The mouthfeel
is dense, plush, firmly structured and very long. Keep
this Brunello safely in your cellar 20 years or more. Vinifera Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
Price: $275
abv: 14%
96
Capanna 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This riserva is simply gorgeous, with
loads of fresh fruit, mineral, spice, leather, tobacco and
long aging potential. The freshness and structure is
definitely present, while the mouthfeel is luscious and
opulent with vanilla, espresso and dried herb or menthol overtones. Masciarelli Wine Co. Cellar Selection.
—M.L.
Price: $80
abv: 15%
96
Il Poggione 2006 Riserva Vigna Paganelli (Brunello di Montalcino). This vineyarddesignated riserva delivers perfumed notes of red rose,
pressed flower and a bright, berry-driven bouquet. In
the mouth, this is a plump, bold wine with thick concentration and loads of dark fruit such as blackberry and
plum. The tannic firmness suggests at least 10 years of
cellar aging. Overall, it is beautiful, elegant and bold.
Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
Price: $95
abv: 14.5%
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Tenuta La Fuga 2006 Le Due Sorelle
Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This
riserva shows gorgeous intensity and a beautiful, dense
texture. There’s just enough softness to cushion the naturally high acidity of 2006. It’s firm, silky, rich, powerful
and super long. In fact, the extraordinary length is what
sets this wine apart. Age 10–15 years. Kobrand. Cellar
Selection. —M.L.
Price: $75
abv: 14.5%
95
Canalicchio di Sopra 2006 Riserva
(Brunello di Montalcino). Here is a generous, modern and bold expression of Sangiovese Grosso
whose soft layers of chocolate and dark cherry fruit help
soften the natural acidity and structure of the 2006 vintage. A polished mineral note adds attractive definition
on the finish. Tight and very firm; age this wine 10–20
years. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.
Price: $120
abv: 14%
95
Castello Banfi 2006 Poggio all’Oro Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Poggio all’Oro
(a wine only produced in the best vintages) is a sophisticated and austere Brunello with just a tiny dab of sweet
spice and red rose aromas on the bouquet. Beyond
those are steady, savory pulses of tobacco, leather and
dark cedar. The wine is plush, textured and rich, with a
polished firmness that keeps it grounded on the palate.
Banfi Vintners. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
Price: $150
abv: 14%
95
Castello Romitorio 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Artist Sandro Chia and his
team have delivered a lush, modern, approachable and
opulent riserva with aromas of spice, ripe fruit, chocolate fudge and red cherry. This is a round and supple
wine, with a soft, generous mouthfeel backed by firm
structure and bright acidity. Vinifera Imports. Cellar
Selection. —M.L.
Price: $150
abv: 14%
95
Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). From an allfemale winery, this riserva opens with a deep garnet color. Black espresso bean, vanilla pod, toasted chestnut
and dark, brooding fruit characterize the bouquet. It is
bright and crisp in the mouth, with a sharply defined
edge and polished tannins. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L.
Price: $70
abv: 14%
95
La Serena 2006 Riserva Gemini (Brunello di Montalcino). This is a smooth, balanced
and intense wine that opens with a deep, saturated appearance and plush aromas of sweet spice, rum cake,
leather, tobacco and ripe blackberry. This bold, modern
expression of Brunello shows acidity and tannins that
are firm, but not biting.A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L.
Price: $135
abv: NA
95
PianCornello 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). Here is a very plush, dark and
decadent riserva with soft and luscious tones of ripe
fruit, blackberry, moist earth and pipe tobacco. The
wine is smooth, dense and enduring. It can be either
aged or consumed in 3–5 years. The style reflects a soft,
round approach to the crisp 2006 vintage. Superior
Wines LLC. —M.L.
Price: $70
abv: 14.5%
95
Poggio Nardone 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Poggio Nardone’s 2006
riserva is a neverending journey of opulence and excellence. Everything is delivered in supersized intensity—
the cherry, chocolate, spice, cola, cassis, leather and cedar. The mouthfeel is soft, finely textured, shapely and
long-lasting. This is a beautiful wine that will age many
years to come. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
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Siro Pacenti 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). Not an obvious wine by any
stretch, this riserva opens slowly and bashfully to deliver small pulses of cherry, chocolate and smoked bacon that build in intensity and power as the wine gains
momentum in the glass. The tannins are present but
are soft and firm without any bitter astringency. Age 10
years or more. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $120
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Verbena 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). A pretty and lusciously layered
Brunello with dark fruit, spice, leather, tobacco and rum
cake aromas. The wine is dense and chewy, with a tight,
velvety feel. Dark fruit and spice push the wine across
the palate, and both the acidity and tannins are softer
than in other 2006 riservas. Michael R. Downey Selections. —M.L.
Price: $75
abv: 14%
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Bellaria 2006 Assunto Riserva (Brunello
di Montalcino). Dark fruit aromas of cherry, blackberry and exotic spice comprise the bouquet.
There’s inky density, contrasted against delicate aromas
of lead pencil, cola and cured meat. The wine is plush,
rich and extracted, with dusty, firm tannins. Terra Verus
Trading Co. LP. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $85
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Castelgiocondo 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). An intense and opulent
Brunello, with bold brush strokes of ripe cherry, blackberry, chocolate, coffee and mocha. Concentrated fruit
and firm tannins are marked by a pretty touch of dusty
mineral on the finish. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $120
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Collosorbo 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). This successful riserva displays
opulence and a bold, modern style that focuses on
bright cherry and savory spice aromas. The wine is loaded with density and richness, and combines a ripe soft
feel with a lively berries on the finish. Frank Johnson
Selections. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
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Cupano 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Sweet oak tones of cinnamon, ripe
cherry and raspberry are delivered via a beautifully intense bouquet. This is a Brunello with tight tannins,
fresh acidity and solid structure. Verdeor Select Vintages. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $130
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Fornacina 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). Opens with dark concentration
and extra flesh and density in terms of texture. There’s
an extra padding of softness that helps buffer the vintage’s high acidity and natural firmness. Not ready to
drink for another 10 years at least. Villa Italia. Cellar
Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $92
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Gianni Brunelli 2006 Riserva (Brunello
di Montalcino). This interpretation of Sangiovese Grosso is clean, polished, ripe and elegant. It
opens with dark concentration and berry notes of cassis
and candied cherry, and then rum cake, leather and tobacco show up on the finish, backed by firm tannins and
bright acidity. Acid Inc Selections. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
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Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2006 Il Mio Brunello
Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Inky color, with a broad array of aromas, including earth, candied fruit, plum cake and cinnamon spice. Smooth and
luscious in the mouth, where its tight structure shows
promising potential for longevity. Massanois Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $110
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ber highlights on the rim. The wine is soft, plush and
rich with candied fruit, leather, spice, licorice, crushed
mineral and asphalt. Margate Wine & Spirit Company.
—M.L.
Price: $85
abv: 14.5%
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Quattroventi 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). This beautiful riserva opens with
dark concentration and bold berry notes spanning from
cassis to blackberry. It’s a ripe, extracted wine with savory spice and cured meat aromas that fill in the back.
Crushed black pepper and cardamom also make a brief,
but lively, appearance. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
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San Filippo di Giannelli 2006 Le Lucére
Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Dense,
bold and beautiful, with notes of plush cherry, blackberry, clove, cinnamon, cola and dried rosemary. Polished,
with a dusty, silky feel to the long finish.A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L.
Price: $110
abv: 14%
La Fortuna 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). This riserva is silky, firm and polished, with bright fruit nuances of wild berry, almond
skin, cola and lingering menthol overtones. The mouthfeel is bright and crisp, with a very fine, smooth texture.
Dusty mineral notes appear on the finish. MHW, Ltd.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
San Lorenzo 2006 Bramante Riserva
(Brunello di Montalcino). From one of Tuscany’s most celebrated wine areas, this luscious wine is
soft, beautifully textured and plush. It shows ripe red
fruit, plus leather, tobacco, sweet cinnamon and marzipan on the bouquet.Vos Vinum Importing Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
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La Gerla 2006 Riserva gli Angeli (Brunello di Montalcino). Always a beautiful wine,
this edition of Riserva gli Angeli is austere, sophisticated, lean and elegant. It shows a fine, silky texture with
bright aromas of wild berry, cola and mint. There are
also interesting tertiary aromas of leather, dusty mineral
and cured meat at the back. Southern Wine and Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $70
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La Poderina 2006 Poggio Abate Riserva
(Brunello di Montalcino). There’s a sassy,
spicy quality here, with clove and spice, cola, root beer
and black licorice. Smooth, dark extraction with bold
structure. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
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Mocali 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This Brunello delivers an intense
and complex bouquet featuring beautifully integrated
aromas of dark fruit, spice, leather and tobacco. Tight
tannins promise a long future ahead.Michael Skurnik
Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
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San Polino 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). A rich and sophisticated wine,
with loads of dark fruit and exotic spice. It’s bright rubygarnet appearance, with bright acidity and a fresh, lively
finish. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $85
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San Polo 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This is a beautiful wine with opulent
aromas of chocolate fudge, cherry, vanilla bean and
bright berry fruit. Yet in the mouth, it’s is very focused,
with enough structure and acidity to promise a long future. The finish is silky and fine. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $90
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Tenuta Vitanza 2006 Riserva (Brunello
di Montalcino). The aromas feature beautiful tones of black mineral, licorice, peppercorn and ripe
fruit. This is a dark, brooding Brunello with an elegant,
dry nose and layers of opulence that build momentum.
Overall, it’s round, rich and well structured. Drink after
2018. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
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Podere Brizio 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). This wine has some big shoulders. There’s a dusty, aged quality, with sophisticated,
silky tannins and tertiary aromas of black licorice, dried
tobacco, peppercorn and dried berry fruit. It’s firm,
tight and compact; age 10 more years. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $120
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Poggio il Castellare 2006 Pian Bossolino Riseva (Brunello di Montalcino). A
dark inky wine with a bold garnet color and some am-
Camigliano 2006 Gualto Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Holds back just a bit initially, but then evolves slowly and steadily. Delivers a
very firm, polished and linear feel in the mouth. Dusty
aromas of crushed stone and crushed white pepper are
backed by cola, cassis and red currant. An elegant and
sophisticated Brunello. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $90
Canneta 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Well etched, defined and crisp, this is
a strong, determined wine with loads of power, acidity
WineMag.com | 19
and firmness. The wine shows all the criteria for a long
cellar life, softening slowly as the wine evolves. Age 10–
20 more years. Orvino Imports & Distribution. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $49
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Capanne Ricci 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). A plump and juicy Brunello with
bold, fresh fruit and loads of aromatic intensity. Cherry, plum and blackberry are backed by evolved tones of
leather, spice and cola. Shows delicate details of wild
berry and almond paste on the close. Smooth and velvety. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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Caprili 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). A lovely riserva, with bold, opulent
notes of cherry and plum. Leather, tobacco, rum cake,
cola and dried sage add complexity.Admiralty Beverage.
—M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $75
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Fattoria La Lecciaia 2006 Riserva
(Brunello di Montalcino). Opens with a dry,
dusty firmness that comes through both on the nose and
in the mouth. This is fresh and tightly woven with very
fine aromas of cassis, spice, crushed stone and milled
white pepper. Very firm and tight; age 10 years. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $52
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Fattoria La Lecciaia 2006 Vigna Manapetra Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).
This riserva opens with a textured, granular mouthfeel
that is packed tight with leather, tobacco, dried berry
and cola flavors. The close is fresh and menthol-driven.
Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $58
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Fuligni 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Sweet spice and dark fruit aromas offer all the telltale signs of a top-notch riserva. The wine
is bright with etched acidity and strong tannins. Let it
age 10 years or more. Defined, compact mouthfeel.
Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $153
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Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2006 Beato Riserva
(Brunello di Montalcino). Pleasurable and
modern, with a dense opulence that makes a wine like
this attractive on so many levels. It delivers deep layers
of ripe fruit, blackberry, vanilla bean, espresso and black
pepper. Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $90
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La Mannella 2006 Riserva (Brunello
di Montalcino). Tight, linear and compact.
Clean, crisp and precise. Small berry aromas of cassis,
wild berry and cherry are framed by firm, dusty tannins
and a touch of toasted oak. Casa Torelli . —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
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Lazzeretti 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). Sophisticated, with tertiary aromas of crushed mineral, asphalt, cola, dried mint, wild
berry and cassis. On the palate, it’s tight, compact and
linear, with a long, polished finish. Pacific Wine Distributors. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
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Le Chiuse 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). This beautiful Brunello opens
with lavish tones of dark fruit, exotic spice, espresso
bean and crushed black pepper. The mouthfeel is interesting because it starts off bold and rich, but ends
with the focused or chiseled sharpness that is typical of
Sangiovese Grosso. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $95
Lisini 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Shows a pretty, polished nose with dusty
mineral notes backed by elegant tones of dried berry,
spice and leather. Nice complexity and balance. Loads
of tobacco-like sensations on the close. Empson (USA)
Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $118
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Mocali 2006 Vigna delle Raunate Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This riserva is
loaded with fruit. It’s a dark, inky wine that oozes black
cherry, exotic spice, leather and moist pipe tobacco.
After the tightness and firmness of the mouthfeel, the
wine offers a playful endnote of blackberry jam. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.
Price: $50
abv: 14%
Terralsole 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). Pressed rose, slightly dusty mineral shadings, spice and black fruit make up the bouquet of this elegant, harmonious wine. This expression
is astringent and firm, with bright acidity and a solid tannic backbone. Let it soften with more cellar aging. Terralsole. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $80
Altesino 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This Brunello Riserva is defined by a
layer of coffee and espresso that peels back nicely to reveal dark fruit, cassis, leather and tobacco. It’s smooth,
ripe, fresh and structured. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $80
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Brunelli Martoccia 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This Brunello offers interesting complexity in its cola and balsam notes. The wine
has a big, bright intensity, with crisp acidity and a lean,
compact mouthfeel that’s rather austere and stern. Ultimately the wine is more generous on the nose than
in the mouth and finishes with lasting freshness. Small
Vineyards LLC. —M.L.
Price: $80
abv: 14%
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Molino di Sant’Antimo 2006 Riserva
(Brunello di Montalcino). Linear, focused
and bright, with rich, fleshy fruit in the form of cherry,
blackberry and spiced plum cake. This is a fleshy pretty wine with an elegant mouthfeel. Delectatio Wines.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $55
Cantina di Montalcino 2006 Riserva
(Brunello di Montalcino). A traditional style
of riserva, this wine shows aromas of spice, candied berry, smoked bacon, cinnamon, white pepper and dried
sage. There’s also a floral element of red rose or lavender. It is light and crisp, with a firm finish. Wine Wave.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $115
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Piccini 2006 Villa al Cortile Riserva
(Brunello di Montalcino). Black cherry and
coffee notes come to the fore and are followed by softer
layers of spice, clove and cardamom. Pressed roses too.
Firm and linear in the mouth with a tight tannic bite on
the close. Drink after 2018. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
Pinino 2006 Pinone Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). This wine offers loads of coffee
and soft intensity, with ripe fruit, blackberry, rum cake
and exotic spice. That extra roundness works well with
this wine’s high acidity and tannic structure. USA Wine
Imports. —M.L.
Price: $47
abv: 13.5%
Poggio Antico 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). Sharply defined aromas of spice,
chiseled mineral, dried tobacco and cassis open the
bouquet of this dark, concentrated wine. There’s a floral
note of spicy potpourri and cinnamon stick, tight tannins and bright acidity.The Sorting Table. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $140
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San Felice 2006 Campogiovanni Il Quercione Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).
Dark, brooding, thick, masculine, this wine shows loads
of big Brunello personality. It offers thick concentration, a velvety and plush mouthfeel, followed by dark
flavors of blackberry, prune, spice, leather, cedar and
pipe tobacco. Premium Brands. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $135
Fattoria dei Barbi 2006 Riserva (Brunello
di Montalcino). This brunello offers a pretty
bouquet, showing elegance and restraint at the same
time. There are layers of small berry fruit, spice and
leather, with dusty, dry tannins. The wine’s overall astringency should soften with time.Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $90
Innocenti 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). The wine gives an impression of being
supple and soft, at least on the nose, but you can feel the
firm structure in the mouth. The quality of the tannins
is dusty, firm and unyielding at this early stage. Drink in
5–10 years. Mission Wine Company. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 14.5%
La Collina dei Lecci 2006 Riserva
(Brunello di Montalcino). This wine presents a dark wall of inky concentration with aromas of
ripe fruit and raw cherry. There are earthy tones in the
background that are characteristic of Sangiovese, with
floral and menthol nuances as well. The tannins are firm
and polished. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $52
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La Fiorita 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). A Brunello on the bold and ripe side,
with smoked bacon, blackberry, sweet spice, rum cake
and black licorice. It shows impressive staying power.
It’s tannic, firm and ready for a long aging future ahead.
Chambers & Chambers. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
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La Fornace 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). This Brunello opens with floral notes of pressed red rose and clay soil. Bright fruit,
blackberry, leather and tobacco aromas are framed by
firm tannins. Vignaioli. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $130
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Marchesato degli Aleramici 2006 Riserva
(Brunello di Montalcino). There’s an exotic,
spicy element here that gives this riserva a unique and
compelling quality. Coffee, espresso and bitter chocolate also identify it. The mouthfeel is dry and tight,
suggesting long aging potential. More than fruit, this
wine shows tertiary aromas and crushed mineral in the
mouth. Fedway Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $75
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Podere Paganico 2006 Riserva (Brunello
di Montalcino). Notes of root beer, dried sage,
wild berry and bramble with menthol overtones define
this wine. There are subtle wood tones of spice, clove
and black pepper, and the finish is crisp and streamlined with a touch of cherry sweetness. Saranty Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
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Talenti 2006 Pian di Conte Riserva
(Brunello di Montalcino). This wine offers
some cola, sage and fresh menthol notes. It’s an elegant package with aromatic intensity, balanced acidity
and firm, tight structure. The wine is lean, compact and
tight and needs another 5–10 years to come into focus.
Robert Chadderdon Selections. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
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Tassi 2006 Franci Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). This unique expression of Sangiovese Grosso is influenced by oak tones to produce
aromas of Spanish cedar and sandalwood, giving the
bouquet a rich personality. Bold fruit tones of cherry
and blackberry also come into focus, and the wine is surprisingly firm in the mouth. Wine Emporium. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
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Tenuta di Sesta 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). This elegant Brunello opens to a
lean, streamlined style. The garnet color is true to the
Sangiovese variety and so are the wine’s aromas of forest berry, earth and pressed flower. You’ll like the bright,
soft close, with its tiny touch of fruity sweetness. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $140
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Tenute Niccolai 2006 Podere Bellarina
Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Huge,
dark concentration makes this wine almost too much of
a good thing. It offers inky density, with cured meat,
spice, dark fruit, prune, blackberry and blackberry pie.
Its bold astringency needs more time to soften. Angelini
Wine. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $90
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Tornesi 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This Brunello shows a feminine and
bright personality, with aromas of leather, small berry
fruit, cassis and licorice. It’s structured and crisp, with
good freshness and a silky mouthfeel. Fourcade &
Hecht Wine Selections. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $80
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Uccelliera 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). Always a knockout Brunello,
Uccelliera’s 2006 Riserva seems on the ripe side, with
jammy fruit aromas and savory beef jerky notes at the
back. The firmness and natural acidity associated with
Sangiovese is present, but the aromas show hints of candied fruit and spicy plum cake. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L.
Price: $65
abv: 15%
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Villa Poggio Salvi 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This is a broad, masculine Brunello with layers of spice, leather, Spanish cedar, cola and cured meat. The mouthfeel is streamlined
and elegant, with crisp acidity and a solidly tannic base.
Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.L.
Price: $60
abv: 14%
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Collelceto 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). Warm spice and dark fruit tones
with cured meat, bresaola, licorice, black pepper, leather and tobacco define this expression. The wine is plush
rich, structured and firm.Montecastelli Selections.
—M.L.
Price: $60
abv: 14%
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Fattoi 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This dark wine opens with bright
fruit aromas that are soft and straightforward. The wine
presents bold cherry, blackberry and spicy rum cake flavors, and a mouthfeel that is fresh and round. The finish is dominated by chewy berry fruit. Tricana Imports.
—M.L.
Price: $75
abv: 14.5%
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La Palazzetta 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). There’s a bright, pungent, inyour-face aroma of dried fruit and black currant. Maybe
a touch of dried apple, too. This wine offers dark concentration with loads of density and intensity. Plush, rich
and nicely framed by firm tannins and a drying mineral
note, it shows positive evolution in the glass. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 14.5%
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Le Gode 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). A sweet nose of oak spice, almond
marzipan and cherry cola makes for a nice first impression. It boasts loads of balsam intensity with cola, ginger
and black licorice. It’s ripe, chewy and covers the palate
while delivering tight structure on the long finish. Conexport. —M.L.
Price: $90
abv: 14.5%
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Le Macioche 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). Linear and bright, with firm
structure and smoky hints of leather, tobacco and candied fruit. This is a bold, austere Brunello, with notes
of root beer and white pepper on the close. Vintner Select. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 14.5%
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Palazzo 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Opens with dark, savory layers of
Indian spice, candied fruit, plum, licorice and graham
cracker. The texture is thick, viscous and rich, but a
bright touch of acidity washes over the palate and keeps
it refreshed. The endnote features tertiary aromas of
leather, cola and crushed mineral. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $105
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Poggio Rubino 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Neutral on the nose with
smoked ham and dark leather tones, this wine shows
tertiary aromas of wild mushroom, earth and black licorice. It has a ripe, round quality to its fruit, with firm
structure. Very tangy, bright and refreshing on the close.
. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
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SassodiSole 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). This Brunello has a warm, earthy
personality embodied by its wild mushroom, leather, tobacco and ripe fruit notes. There’s crème de cassis and
cherry liqueur as well. The wine’s mouthfeel is bright
and crisp. The Gullà Group. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $88
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Tenuta Oliveto 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). This wine definitely shows a ripe
side in its cured meat, tobacco, sandalwood, smoked
bacon and old spice. Delivers a rich, plump feel in the
mouth, backed by gritty tannins and bright acidity. Despite the cooler vintage, this wine packs power, heat and
a tiny touch of sweetness on the close. IMA Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $79
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Collemattoni 2006 Vigna Fontelontano
Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This
vineyard-designated Riserva shows a broad portfolio of tertiary aromas with crushed stone, licorice, cassis, leather and smoked meat. It is evolved and silky,
with a fresh, crisp close and enough complexity to ride
smoothly across the palate. Vignaioli. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $79
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Sesti 2006 Phenomena Riserva (Brunello
di Montalcino). There’s a ripe, cooked quality
with black fruit, toasted nut, cured meat and wild mushroom to this expression. The fruit tones are candied and
mature, and the wine offers a ean and compact mouthfeel with a two-fold blast of acidity and tannin.Kermit
Lynch Wine Merchant. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
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Terre Nere 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). Ripe aromas of dark fruit, crème
de cassis and cherry liqueur. The wine is thick, juicy and
chewy, with a touch of tightness or astringency on the
close.Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
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La Torre 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This wine has a more vinous nose with
bold cherry and raspberry aromas followed by leather,
WineMag.com | 21
spice and Spanish cedar. Textured and firm, bright and
fresh. Rosenthal Wine Merchants. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $80
ecuted with a bold, modern flair. Oak tones characterize
the wine. Vinity Wine Company. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $100
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Podere La Vigna 2006 Riserva (Brunello
di Montalcino). This Brunello shows aromas
of leather and cured meat without much fresh fruit to
hold it up. The structure and acidity is there, along with
tertiary aromas of crushed mineral, asphalt, candied
fruit and dried sage. Royalty Importers. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $90
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Livio Sassetti 2006 Pertimali Riserva
(Brunello di Montalcino). This wine feels
wrapped in sunshine and warmth. There’s ripe fruit,
plus leather, barbecue sauce, cured meat and blackcurrant. A soft, plush mouthfeel with a firm tannic backbone lends sensations of dryness and power. Massanois
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $85
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Tenuta Vitanza 2006 Brunello di Montalcino. This well extracted wine is loaded with
ripe fruit, cassis, tobacco, leather and chocolate-covered cherry. The wine is still young and astringent, so
let those tannins soften over the next 5–10 years. Vedi
Vintners Estates Direct Importing . —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
Tenuta Vitanza 2006 Tradizione (Brunello
di Montalcino). Tradizione is a soft and luscious Brunello with inky dark concentration and intense
aromas of dark fruit, rum cake and currant. The wine
is smooth and supple, with a finish that can be counted in minutes. Vedi Vintners Estates Direct Importing
. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $46
Marchesi Antinori 2006 Pian delle Vigne
Riserva Vignaferrovia (Brunello di Montalcino). This wine opens with some volatility that
shows up as dried apple skin, strawberry jam, apricot
and dusty earth. It offers polished tannins and bright,
buoyant feel. There are loads of ripe strawberry on the
close. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $130
Casato1 2006 Voliero (Brunello di Montalcino). Brunello Voliero is a dark and savory
wine that is packed tight with red berry, cherry liqueur,
toasted spice, leather and lasting tones of dried tobacco
and cigar box. Three years of aging in large oak casks
has helped shape a soft, velvety and polished mouthfeel.
Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $55
2006 BRUNELLO
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Casanova di Neri 2006 Cerretalto
(Brunello di Montalcino). Cerretalto delivers aromas of natural complexity and oak-driven tones
of cinnamon, clove, chocolate and exotic spice. The
fruit is dark, dense and ripe. There’s extra roundness
and density in the mouth that holds together the wine’s
firm tannins and its crisp, acidic component. Hold 10–
20 more years. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $215
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La Rasina 2006 Il Divasco (Brunello di
Montalcino). La Rasina has hit a winning formula with Il Divasco. This wine is bold and opulent,
with lavish layers of bright fruit, spice, cola and leather.
It is one of those Brunellos that seems to have melted
chocolate fudge at its core with a round, soft mouthfeel.
Impressive intensity and complexity are both there.
Montecastelli Selections. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
Price: $75
abv: 14.5%
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Tenimenti Angelini 2006 Vigna Spuntali
Val di Suga (Brunello di Montalcino). This
full-bodied wine opens with compelling aromas of black
fruit, smoked bacon, leather, cinnamon and crushed
clove. There’s a sassy, spicy characteristic here that is
further underlined by the wine’s natural sweetness and
roundness. Vin Divino. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $106
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Villa Le Prata 2006 Selezione Massimo
(Brunello di Montalcino). Selezione Massimo is a dense and concentrated Brunello that delivers
dark fruit, espresso, cola, blackberry and licorice. It’s a
beautiful interpretation of the Montalcino territory, ex22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
Il Valentiano 2006 Campo di Marzo
(Brunello di Montalcino). Darkly concentrated, boldly aromatic and intense, this pretty Brunello delivers modern aromas of chocolate, espresso bean,
ripe fruit, blackberry and rum cake. The mouthfeel is
smooth and rich, and the wine maintains its momentum
thanks to the softness of its texture. Vidalco International, LLC. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
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Tenuta Carlina 2006 La Togata (Brunello
di Montalcino). This vintage of La Togata has
a dark, brooding garnet color, and compelling aromas
of ripe fruit, blackberry, rum cake, spice, leather, dried
ginger and pipe tobacco. If offers a soft, plush texture
and a velvety finish. Panebianco. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $72
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Coldisole 2006 Brunello di Montalcino.
Coldisole opens with oak-driven aromas of coffee bean, smoked bacon, dark spice and savory bresaola
and fruit aromas that resemble dried prune, cassis and
plum cake. The wine excels in the mouth where it displays silky, polished feel. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
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Ruffino 2006 Greppone Mazzi (Brunello
di Montalcino). This Brunello opens with elegantly on the nose, with small berry, cassis and wild
blueberry aromas. Beyond the steady, feminine bouquet is a wine that has power, determination and personality, with savory endnotes of spice and fresh pipe
tobacco. Icon Estates. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $79
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Tenute Niccolai 2006 Podere Bellarina
(Brunello di Montalcino). This 2006 Brunello delivers loads of rich intensity, chocolate fudge, ripe
cherry and tobacco, with soft, velvety tones at the back.
It’s a bold, masculine wine with an attractive personality.
Angelini Wine. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $70
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Livio Sassetti 2006 Pertimali (Brunello di
Montalcino). The 2006 Pertimali tastes better than the 2006 Riserva and the 2007 Brunello. This
wine is uniquely characterized by bold freshness and
richness showing the clean and precise quality of Sangiovese fruit. The aftertaste is long, spicy and firm. Give
this wine 5–10 more years. Massanois Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
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Vini Italiani da Sogno 2006 Carillon
(Brunello di Montalcino). Carillon opens
with a dark, concentrated appearance and smoky aromas of barbecue, spice and toasted oak. The fruit element comes forth on the palate, revealing the wine’s
bright cherry and crème de cassis notes. Panebianco.
—M.L.
Price: $60
abv: 13.5%
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Lisini 2006 Ugolaia (Brunello di Montalcino). Ugolaia is a delicious and attractive
wine, but there’s no denying that the overripe aromas of
strawberry and raspberry jam subtract from the wine’s
overall sophistication. The mouthfeel is soft, round and
plush. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $140
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Villa I Cipressi 2006 Zebras (Brunello di
Montalcino). Lean and light, with aromas of
muddled fruit and spice. This wine does not have huge
staying power but the wine does offer a simple, clean
close, with a touch of fresh acidity. A.I. Selections .
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $70
OTHER BRUNELLOS
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Col d’Orcia 2004 Poggio al Vento (Brunello di Montalcino). Poggio al Vento (from the
2004 vintage) shows smoky and savory notes of forest
floor, bramble, cured meat, barbecue spice and teriyaki
sauce. The wine is compact in the mouth, with polished
tannins. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
Price: $150
abv: 14.5%
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Rendola 2004 Brunello di Montalcino.
An older vintage, the 2004 Rendola opens with
notes of ripe fruit, pressed flowers, exotic spice, leather
and licorice, with a clean, polished mouthfeel. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Castello di Vicarello 2005 Carlo Baccheschi Berti Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This garnet-colored riserva opens with savory
spice, leather notes, with aromas of cured meat and barbecue smoke. The 2005 vintage was a warm one, and
the ripeness of the fruit is evident on the bouquet and
in the soft texture of the mouthfeel. Drink now. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
ROSSO DI MONTALCINO
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Capanne Ricci 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This Rosso boasts impressively intense and
pure Sangiovese aromas. The wine is compackt, with
red berry, rum cake, dried rosemary, ginger and spice.
It’s a small step away from the quality of Brunello at a
fraction of the price. Montcalm Wine Importers. Best
Buy. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
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Canalicchio di Sopra 2010 Rosso di
Montalcino. This wine is a bright, plump and
succulent expression of Sangiovese Grosso, showing
easy, crisp structure enhanced by bold aromas of plum,
leather and spice. There’s a silky, fine nature to the polished tannins. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
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Caprili 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This
impressive Rosso offers lush aromas of rum
cake, coffee, spice, pipe tobacco and dark fruit. It shows
warm, earthy or leathery notes in the mouth that are
rounded off by fresh Sangiovese acidity. Admiralty Beverage. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
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Castello Romitorio 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This wien is rich in balsam notes of eucalyptus, dried rosemary, ginger and cherry cola. The
bouquet is distinctive, and the wine ends with a bright,
fresh finish. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $27
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San Felice 2010 Campogiovanni (Rosso di Montalcino). Perfect for pairing with
grilled meat, white beans or hearty pasta dishes, this
bright Rosso di Montalcino opens with notes of plush
cherry, with almond, spice, leather and tobacco. The
mouthfeel is characterized by toasted oak notes and
bright acidity. Premium Brands. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
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Siro Pacenti 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.
This balanced Rosso delivers intense aromas of
ripe fruit, blackberry, spice, sweet cherry and rum cake.
The wine’s consistency is rich and smooth, with a refreshing touch of acidity on the close. Michael Skurnik
Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Tenimenti Angelini 2010 Val di Suga
(Rosso di Montalcino). This impressive Rosso delivers a silky and smooth texture, with aromas of
bright fruit backed by toasted nut and spice. The balance and overall harmony of the mouthfeel are what set
this wine apart. Vin Divino. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $21
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Altesino 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.
Here’s a soft, round Rosso that imparts fresh
tones of cherry and blackberry as it rolls across the palate. The wine is simple, crisp and nicely textured with
smooth, silky lines. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
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Castelli Martinozzi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Here’s a really pretty Rosso with a
bright, fruit-driven bouquet. It opens with notes of
raspberry and wild berry, with background tones of cinnamon and crushed clove. The finish is acidic and crisp.
Alnam Wine for All. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
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Castiglion del Bosco 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. From an excellent vintage, this bright
Rosso offers creamy aromas of espresso mousse and
milk chocolate, with steady pulses of cherry and blackberry at the back. The wine’s fresh acidity pairs well
with cheesy pasta or pizza. USA Wine West. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
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Fattoria La Lecciaia 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Excellent growing conditions and
quality fruit shape this fresh, food wine that pairs well
with pasta or meat dish. The bouquet is redolent of
black cherry, plum, chocolate mocha and spice. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Fossacolle 2009 Rosso di Montalcino.
This plump Rosso di Montalcino offers ripe,
succulent fruit notes of black cherry, blueberry and
fresh plum, rounded by toasted espresso and almond.
All that results in a soft, round and smooth mouthfeel.
Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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Geografico Castello Tricerchi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Here’s a bright and fresh
Rosso that delivers notes of red cherry, raspberry and
cassis. The wine has a smoky element on the finish that
intensifies an otherwise smooth mouthfeel. Monarchia
Matt International. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi 2010 Castelgiocondo Campo ai Sassi (Rosso di
Montalcino). From Montalcino’s picturesque Castelgiocondo estate, Campo ai Sassi (“field of stones”) is a
soft, plush Rosso, with aromas of black cherry, vanilla
and mocha. The wine imparts a round, velvety feel in
the mouth, with a steady, simple personality. Folio Fine
Wine Partners. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
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Poggio Nardone 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. This pretty Rosso di Montalcino opens with
a concentrated appearance and aromas of ripe fruit,
spice, toasted nut and dried rosemary. A bit thin on the
finish, the wine concludes with silky tannins and a fresh
touch. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Sesti 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. From the
Castello di Argiano property, Sesti’s delicious
Rosso has bright aromas of small berry, dried rosemary,
dark chocolate and toasted almond. Kermit Lynch Wine
Merchant. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
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Talenti 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Talenti’s
Rosso is an impressive expression of Sangiovese,
with bold brushstrokes of ripe berry, spice, blue flow-
er, toasted nut and dried herb. This is a compelling red
wine from Tuscany that would pair well with lasagna or
cheesy pasta. Robert Chadderdon Selections. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
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Tenuta La Fuga 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This Rosso displays soft aromas of red cherry, chocolate and light spice that create a clean and balanced bouquet. Its smooth, fresh mouthfeel suggests
it would pair with veal, roast turkey or pork. Kobrand.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $36
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Tenuta Vitanza 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. This hearty Rosso opens with earthy tones
of leather, tobacco and dried rose petal. The wine’s consistency is sharp and defined with uplifting acidity. Vedi
Vintners Estates Direct Importing . —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
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Belpoggio 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.
This is a nicely fragrant Rosso that shows bright
nuances of raspberry, wild strawberry and pressed rose
petal. The wine is smooth and silky to the end. Vino Direct. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $50
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Biondi-Santi Tenuta Greppo 2008 Rosso
di Montalcino. From Montalcino’s most historic estate, this pretty Rosso opens with a bright, ruby
color and aromas of spice and forest fruit. It delivers
bright acidity and silky tannins in the mouth. Vision
Wine & Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75
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Brunelli Martoccia 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. There’s a focused quality to the fruit in
this bright Rosso that resembles red candy, bright raspberry and sour cranberry. A softly toasted note of oak
spice rounds out the mouthfeel and gives the wine extra
depth and texture. Small Vineyards LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Cordella 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Easy,
fresh and succulent, this ruby-colored Rosso
would make a great match for grilled sausage or hamburger patties. There’s a ripe, chewy texture to the
mouthfeel, with a finish that’s driven by dark fruit flavors. North Berkeley Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Fattoria dei Barbi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. You absolutely can’t go wrong with a
wine like this plump, textured expression of Rosso di
Montalcino. Pair this wine with pork chops or breaded
veal as the fresh acidity nicely contrasts against those
sweet cuts of meat. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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La Poderina 2009 Rosso di Montalcino.
Fresh and bright, this wine is rich with wild
berries, cassis and white cherry aromas that would pair
perfectly with home-cooked pasta and meat dishes. It’s
natural acidity will cut through the rich consistency of
those foods. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Podere Paganico 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. This informal Rosso shows balance
and intensity with bright berry aromas and acidity that
is not too sharp. In fact, the wine is nicely rounded and
supple. Saranty Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Quattroventi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Quattroventi delivers a clean, genuine
Rosso with bright notes of raspberry, blueberry, plum
and black cherry. There’s a touch of smoke or spice at
the back that contributes to a round, easy mouthfeel.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
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Tenuta Carlina 2009 La Togata (Rosso
di Montalcino). La Togata offers a crisp and
fresh Rosso, with aromas of bright berry, cherry cola,
wild raspberry and lemon zest. The natural acidity of
this wine would pair well with lasagna topped with melted mozzarella and Parmigiano. Panebianco. —M.L.
Price: $36
abv: 13.5%
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Tenuta di Sesta 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Here’s a textbook Rosso that delivers clear
and crisp fruit notes, with pretty nuances of wild berry,
red rose and moist earth at the back. The wine feels
crisp, lean and silky on the close. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
mension and staying power in the mouth. Panebianco.
—M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 13.5%
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Camigliano 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.
A crisp, streamlined expression of Sangiovese Grosso that opens with lively aromas of wild berry, white pepper and pressed rose. Pair this wine with
sweet meats, such as roasted ham or pork. Vias Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Casato1 2010 Voliero (Rosso di Montalcino). Pair this food-friendly bright Rosso
with meatloaf or pork roasted with chopped fennel and
leeks. The wine opens with easy berry aromas backed
by blue flower and spice, and there’s a blast of cleansing
acidity on the close. A Marc de Grazia selection; various
American importers. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Casato1 2009 Voliero (Rosso di Montalcino). Simple, bright and packed with fresh
berry intensity, this easygoing Rosso would pair well
with meatloaf, lamp chops or pasta with meat sauce.
The wine’s naturally crisp acidity will cut through the
fat content of these succulent foods. Michael Skurnik
Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
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Mocali 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. This
wine’s ripe, earthy bouquet is enhanced by the
bright aromas of strawberry and blackberry preserve
aromas. It’s soft, round, supple and there’s a distant
note of plump berry sweetness. Michael Skurnik Wines.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Molino di Sant’Antimo 2010 Rosso di
Montalcino. Bright red cherry and chewy
blackberry notes are followed by sweet spice, nutmeg
and cinnamon. There’s a grapy element to the bouquet
that underscores the wine’s youth and informality. Delectatio Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Podere Brizio 2009 Rosso di Montalcino.
Clean, fresh and spicy on the close, this easy
Rosso offers mild aromas of wild berry, raspberry and
cranberry. The wine delivers a crisp feel in the mouth.
A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L.
Price: $27
abv: 14%
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Tenuta San Giorgio 2010 Ciampoleto
(Rosso di Montalcino). Here’s a lovely Rosso
and a rare value wine from one of Tuscany’s most prestigious wine-growing areas. Ciampoleto offers bright
berry nuances, light shadings of exotic spice and a fresh,
zesty finish. Majestic Imports. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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Tenuta Il Poggione 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This lovely Montalcino estate delivers
a bright, ruby-colored Rosso that is heavily characterized by fresh forest-fruit aromas and bright acids. The
wine is streamlined and pristine. Terlato Wines International. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
Tenute Silvio Nardi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. A consistent producer, Silvio Nardi delivers a bright, fresh Rosso, bursting with notes of cherry, raspberry and white chocolate. This is a food-friendly
wine that would match up nicely with breaded veal or
mushroom risotto. Kobrand. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $27
Uccelliera 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.
This informal wine opens with a dark, ruby color and pretty notes of red berry, rose and pipe tobacco.
A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
Uccelliera 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. Uccelliera’s savory Rosso offers a compact mouthfeel, with bright acidity, silky tannins and bright berry
aromas. Pair this wine with lamb stewed with exotic
spices and grated ginger. A Marc de Grazia selection;
various American importers. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Vini Italiani da Sogno 2010 Carillon (Rosso di Montalcino). This is a dark, plump
expression of Sangiovese Grosso that delivers finelytuned aromas of succulent fruit and blackberry. Notes
of espresso and dark chocolate give the wine added di-
24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
Castello Banfi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.
Here’s the kind of simple Rosso di Montalcino
that would pair perfectly with with risotto alla Milanese
(with delicate meat flavoring and saffron) or roast pork.
It’s a fresh, zesty wine, with bright berry nuances and a
clean, sharp mouthfeel. Banfi Vintners. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
Fattoi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This
hearty Rosso opens with spicy aromas of candied fruit, clove, dark spice and cured meat. The wine
has a warm, earthy note that is characteristic of Tuscany’s Sangiovese. The mouthfeel is tart, bright and fresh
on the finish. Tricana Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
La Fornace 2009 Rosso di Montalcino.
This Rosso shows nicely etched lines of wild
berry, white almond and smoked spice. The wine is lean
and crisp in the mouth and would pair well with a heaping plate of spaghetti and meat sauce. Vignaioli. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
Lazzeretti 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. The
nose of this succulent Rosso opens with red berry, candied cherry and blackberry tar. Its firm tannins
give the wine a textured, almost gritty, mouthfeel. Pacific Wine Distributors. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
Máté 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. This silky
Rosso offers a lean, compact mouthfeel and intense aromas of red fruit, smoked almond, black olive
and sour cherry. There’s a savory note of cured meat on
the finish. Vinilandia USA. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $23
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Tiezzi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Tiezzi’s
2010 Rosso shows a dark, austere side, with aromas of ripe fruit, blackberry preserves and rum cake.
The acidity is lively and fresh, and the mouthfeel is balanced and smooth. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
Vini Italiani da Sogno 2008 Carillon (Rosso di Montalcino). Rosso Carillon is aged one
year in oak to produce smoky notes of toasted almond
and exotic spice. The bright, compact mouthfeel offers
cola, sour cherry and wild blueberry endnotes. Panebianco. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
Poggio Antico 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. There’s a youthful, brambly character to
this Rosso that appears as dried sage, rosemary, forest
berry and wild mushroom. The wine is bright, fresh and
streamlined. The Sorting Table. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $44
San Polo 2008 Rosso di Montalcino. This
fresh expression of Sangiovese Grosso offers
tight berry aromas, with shades of spice and toasted almond in the background. Bright acidity brings up the
rear. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
Tenuta Carlina 2010 La Togata (Rosso di
Montalcino). This dark Rosso opens with aromas of dark fruit and bramble, with subtle background
hints of wild mushroom and cured meat. Endnotes of
crushed black pepper and crushed clove bring up the
rear. Panebianco. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
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La Torre 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.
There’s a meaty quality to this Rosso that comes
across as candied fruit, plum cake, leather, spice and
moist earth. Drink now. Rosenthal Wine Merchants.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
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Podere La Vigna 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. Here’s a simple, brambly expression of
Sangiovese Grosso, with bright acidity and lively notes
of forest berry and moist earth. This wine has a smoky
touch of toasted almond on the close. Royalty Importers. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
ry and raspberry followed by rich smoothness. Atlantic
Importing. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $37
geous down to the last delicious drop. Winebow. Cellar
Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $126
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Marchesi Antinori 2007 Marchese Antinori Riserva (Chianti Classico). Sangiovese fruit is presented in its most genuine and clean
state, with bright berry nuances, violets, moist earth, tobacco and cola. There are wood elements, but they are
unobstructive, clean and otherwise relegated to a supporting role. The bouquet shows wild berry, bramble
and bright acidity. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
Agricola Querciabella 2009 Mongrana
(Maremma). This is a terrific super Tuscan
blend (of 50% Sangiovese with equal parts Merlot and
Cabernet Sauvignon) that drinks beautifully. Bright red
fruit and cherry give the wine a lively, cheerful personality and the wine’s structure is perfectly balanced and
smooth. It’s a one-size-fits-all wine for our favorite Italian foods. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
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Cantalici L’Antica Fornace di Ridolfo
2007 Cantalici (Chianti Classico). This
bright and nicely layered Chianti Classico opens with
characteristic Sangiovese aromas of forest fruit and blue
flower followed by leather and tobacco. Since the wine
spends many months in oak, the finish is soft and spicy.
Roanoke Valley Wine Company. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
Pieve Vecchia 2008 Pieve dei Monaci Syrah (Maremma). A pure expression of
Syrah from coastal Tuscany, Pieve dei Monaci offers
a chewy texture and thick layers of black fruit, prune,
cola, spice and smoked bacon. Pair this wine with grilled
meat. Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
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TOSCANA
Villa Poggio Salvi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Here’s a well-proportioned Rosso that
shows notes of fresh raspberry and cherry, with an easy
consistency and crisp acidity. The wine’s mouthfeel is
lean and crisp. Shaw-Ross International Importers.
—M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
Il Valentiano 2008 Campo di Marzo (Rosso di Montalcino). There’s a ripe, jammy aroma on the bouquet of this wine that is soon followed
by toasted espresso, rum cake, spice and tobacco. The
finish is harsh and strong, thanks to a combination of
alcohol and high acidity. Vidalco International, LLC.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
CHIANTI
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Cantalici L’Antica Fornace di Ridolfo
2007 Messer Ridolfo Riserva (Chianti Classico). This bold Chianti Classico opens with
earthy aromas of cured meat, tobacco, pipe tobacco and
rum cake. The fruit aromas come forth as candied berry,
plum and crème de cassis. This wine is aged for one year
in oak barrel, resulting in a soft, plush and velvety finish.
Roanoke Valley Wine Company. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
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Marchesi Antinori 2008 Badia a Passignano Riserva (Chianti Classico). At the
heart of Chianti Classico, Badia a Passignano is among
the most beautiful wine properties in the world with an
ancient abbey that crowns softly rolling hills. This wine
is packed tightly with bright cherry, spice and tobacco
notes, and lingering touches of wild berry and cola. Ste.
Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $53
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Castello d’Albola 2007 Riserva (Chianti
Classico). This bright wine offers a straightforward and focused expression of Sangiovese (with a
tiny percentage of Canaiolo), with a lean texture and
crisp berry nuances. On the close, there’s a pretty accent
that recalls white almond. Zonin USA. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
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Castelvecchio 2007 Vigna la Quercia
Riserva (Chianti Colli Fiorentini). This
wine is ripe and soft, with jammy aromas of blackber-
Castello d’Albola 2008 Le Ellere (Chianti Classico). Le Ellere is a tight and fresh expression of Sangiovese that delivers a clean and crisp
quality of fruit. The wine’s acidity makes it a perfect
pairing for ravioli stuffed with ricotta cheese or chicken
in cream sauce. Zonin USA. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
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Castelvecchio 2009 Il Castelvecchio
(Chianti Colli Fiorentini). Sangiovese (with
10% Merlot) forms a solid base for bright aromas of
red cherry, cola, leather, tobacco and rum cake in this
blend. These two varieties work well together to produce a soft, velvety feel with a touch of ripe fruit on the
finish. Atlantic Importing. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
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Castello d’Albola 2008 Chianti Classico (Chianti Classico). Here’s a wonderfully
fresh and tangy Chianti Classico (Sangiovese with a tiny
element of Canaiolo) that opens with a bright, ruby appearance and tangy notes of wild berry, white almond
and blue violet. The mouthfeel is fresh and focused. Zonin USA. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
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Buccia Nera 2008 Guarniente (Chianti).
Very fresh and acidic to the point of tasting sour,
this ruby-colored Chianti offers bright berry aromas and
white cherry crispness. The wine seems perfectly engineered to pair with cheesy pasta or pizza. Wine Country. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
MAREMMA
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Fattoria Le Pupille 2008 Saffredi (Maremma). Vintner Elisabetta Geppetti’s Saffredi is
part cult wine and part mainstream blockbuster in that
the wine enjoys worldwide fame, but few know it well.
This vintage is soft and luscious, with loads of dark chocolate, cherry, blackberry, tobacco and spice. It’s gor-
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Marchesi Antinori 2008 Solaia (Toscana).
Definitely on a top 10 list of Italian icons, Solaia affirms the massive potential of Italian winemaking,
from vineyard to cantina to cellar and beyond. Superrich and polished, but never over the top, this gorgeous
super Tuscan shows deep layers of chocolate, black
cherry, rum cake and spice. The secret lies in its balance: Everything is in place, from intensity and complexity to persistency. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $325
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Ca’ Marcanda 2007 Promis (Toscana).
From the Tuscan estate of Angelo Gaja, Promis
delivers all the gorgeous intensity and complexity you
should expect. The wine oozes dark chocolate, cherry liqueur, spice, blackberry and moist tobacco. The mouthfeel is soft and smooth; absolutely delicious. Terlato
Wines International. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
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Marchesi Antinori 2008 Tignanello (Toscana). This landmark Italian wine continues
to show the best of Tuscany, as it faithfully does year
after year. The quality is obvious, thanks to rich notes
of chocolate, black cherry and spice that are wrapped
tight within a lush, soft and texture. The close is velvety
and very long.Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $99
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Poggio Antico 2009 Madre (Toscana).
Madre is the name of a beautiful vineyard parcel on the Poggio Antico estate, with views that extend
from Montalcino to the Mediterranean Sea. This hearty
blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon is intense
and rich, with long-lasting notes of blackberry, smoke,
spice and black pepper. The mouthfeel is lush and velvety. The Sorting Table. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $73
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I Giusti e Zanza 2008 Nemorino (Toscana). Nemorino (a blend of Syrah, Sangiovese and Merlot) shows chewy cherry and blueberry
characteristics with easy spice tones on the finish. The
wine is fresh and bright and would pair with meat lasagna or tortellini with grated Parmigiano. Vindagra USA.
—M.L.
Price: $17
abv: 14%
Marchesi Antinori 2009 Achelo Syrah
(Cortona). Achelo is a bright, chewy and lively
red wine with aromas of blueberry, spice, milk chocolate and crushed white pepper. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L.
Price: $21
abv: 13.5%
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Varramista 2007 Ottopioppi (Toscana).
Grenache is a grape variety that is slowly making its mark in central Italy. This 80-20 blend of Sangiovese and Grenache shows the bright cherry and blue
flower aromas of Sangiovese with slightly smoked, savory layers in the background. Vigneti D’Italia. —M.L.
Price: $30
abv: 13%
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Castello d’Albola 2007 Acciaiolo (Toscana). Acciaiolo is a super Tuscan blend of
Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon that opens with
concentrated and opulent aromas of dark cherry, chocolate and exotic spice. The mouthfeel shows heft and
depth. Give the wine a few more years in the cellar to
soften those toasted oak influences. Zonin USA. —M.L.
Price: $90
abv: 13.5%
Collazzi 2007 Rosso (Toscana). Soft and
velvety, this super Tuscan blend delivers intense and pure notes of chocolate, cherry, blackberry
and spice. It balances a dense, rich texture with loads
of bright fruit on the finish. The Sorting Table. —M.L.
Price: $39
abv: 14.5%
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Poggio Antico 2010 Lemartine (Toscana).
A new wine from Poggio Antico, Lemartine is
a hearty blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Petit Verdot that offers intense and pristine aromas of
black fruit, spice, rum cake, pepper and black pipe tobacco. It shows both substance and freshness on the
long finish. The Sorting Table. —M.L.
Price: $52
abv: NA
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Agricola Querciabella 2007 Camartina
(Toscana). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon
and Sangiovese opens with plush layers of cherry and
blackberry and touches of spice and toast that are never
overdone. In fact, the wine shows power and determination allied to delicacy. Maisons Marques & Domaines
USA. —M.L.
Price: $130
abv: 14%
Bibi Graetz 2009 Testamatta Soffocone
di Vincigliata (Toscana). This is a special expression of Sangiovese (and a small amount of Cannaiolo) with a pure, luminous quality aided by subtle aromas
of forest berry, white licorice, cola and pressed lavender.
It’s an elegant wine from start to finish.—M.L.
Price: $45
abv: 14%
Castelvecchio 2007 Il Brecciolino (Toscana). You’re in for a big, bold wine the minute you pour Il Brecciolino into the glass. This blend of
Sangiovese, Merlot and Petit Verdot opens with a dark,
inky color and intense aromas of ripe fruit, blackberry,
rum cake and spice. It’s soft, supple and rich. Atlantic
Importing. —M.L.
Price: $45
abv: 14.5%
Buccia Nera 2007 Amadio (Toscana). This
blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot opens with earthy aromas of leather, tobacco
and button mushroom, followed by fresh cherry. Crisp
acidity makes this a good wine to pair with cheesy risotto or pork. Casa Torelli . —M.L.
Price: $23
abv: 13.5%
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Castello d’Albola 2009 Il Solatio (Toscana). From a vineyard located 580 meters
above sea level, Il Solatio delivers cool aromas of wild
berry, cola, white mineral and crushed stone. The wine
is lean and compact in the mouth, but it definitely bears
the mark of its origins. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 13%
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Mocine 2009 Rosso (Toscana). This organically farmed blend of Sangiovese, Foglia Tonda, Barsaglina and Colorino opens with sweet cherry
and blueberry notes followed by light accents of spice
and leather. This easygoing wine shows medium intensity and fresh acidity. The Italian Wine Trader. —M.L.
Price: $19
abv: 13%
Capezzana 2010 Monna Nera (Toscana).
In 1475, Monna Nera was the name of the
woman who purchased and managed the historic Capezzana wine estate in western Tuscany. This easy wine
offers loads of bright cherry aromas and a lean, crisp
mouthfeel. MW Imports. —M.L.
Price: $12
abv: 12.5%
Fattoria la Castellina 2008 Reale (Toscana). Reale (100% Merlot) offers sweet cherry and raspberry aromas with light touches of spice and
toasted almond in the background. This ruby colored
wine offers an easy, fresh and lean feel in the mouth.
Saranty Imports. —M.L.
Price: $30
abv: 13%
Buccia Nera 2008 Camprianese (Toscana). This easy blend of Sangiovese and
Ciliegiolo opens with a dark, garnet color and sharp aromas of raw cherry and blueberry. It’s finely focused and
crisp, making it perfect for pizza or pasta. Potomac Selections. —M.L.
Price: $11
abv: 13%
Fattoria di San Quintino 2008 La Fagiana (Toscana). La Fagiana is a bright, rubycolored wine with aromas of forest fruit and bramble,
with white almond and spice at the back. It’s an easy, nofuss expression with a clean, tart close. Vindagra USA.
—M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 13.5%
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Massanera 2005 Prelato di Massanera
(Toscana). Vintner Carlo Cattaneo offers a
lean, crisp expression of Sangiovese with aromas of cassis and spice. The wine shows sharp acidity on the close.
Total Wine & More. —M.L.
Price: $35
abv: 13.5%
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La Braccesca 2010 Sabazio (Rosso di
Montepulciano). Sabazio is a bold and savory
Rosso di Montepulciano with spicy aromas of leather,
tobacco, ripe fruit, blackberry preserves and rum cake.
The intensity of the bouquet is there but the mouthfeel
is light and tight. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L.
Price: $15
abv: 13.5%
Pieve Vecchia 2009 Albatrello (Montecucco). Aged only in stainless steel, this blend
of Sangiovese and Alicante combines bright fruit nuances of cherry and blueberry with a lean, crisp mouthfeel. It’s got enough acidity to cut through cheesy
pizza.Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L.
Price: $18
abv: 14%
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Fattoria Le Pupille 2010 RosaMati Rosé
(Maremma). RosaMati opens with a bold pink
color and follows up aromatically with bright raspberry,
cassis and cranberry. The wine shows a cool, silky feel in
the mouth with a crisp close. Winebow. —M.L.
Price: $20
abv: 13%
Terre di Talamo 2010 Piano... Piano Rosé
(Maremma). Here’s a lively rosé from Tuscany
(a 50-50 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon)
that offers pretty aromas of cranberry, red rose and
white almond. Pair it with smoked salmon and capers.
Michelangelo Selections. —M.L.
Price: $15
abv: 13.5%
Terre di Talamo 2009 Piano... Piano Rosé
(Maremma). A 50-50 blend of Sangiovese and
Cabernet Sauvignon, Piano... Piano opens with a pretty
pink color and delicate aromas of rose petal, white cherry and almond paste. Pair this wine with spicy Thai beef
and basil. Michelangelo Selections. —M.L.
Price: $15
abv: 14%
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Fabrizio Dionisio 2010 Rosa del Castagno Rosé (Toscana). This bright peach-pink
colored rosé is made using Syrah from the Cortona area.
It shows aromas of peach, cranberry, white almond and
pink grapefruit. USA Wine Imports. —M.L.
Price: $29
abv: 13%
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Il Poggione 2009 Lo Sbrancato Rosé
(Toscana). A rosé of Sangiovese from southern Tuscany (Montalcino), Lo Sbrancato features ripe
aromas of wild berry, cranberry and white almond. It’s
a simple, fresh wine that would pair well with mussels
steamed in cream sauce. Terlato Wines International.
—M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 12.5%
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Collemassari 2010 Gròttolo Rosé (Toscana). Made with organically-farmed fruit,
Gròttolo is a Tuscan rosé that would pair with shellfish
or fresh pasta with grilled vegetables. The wine is layered with bright fruit, cranberry and a touch of fresh
acidity. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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Pieve Vecchia 2009 Quercerosa Rosé
(Maremma). Quercerosa Rosé is pressed from
Sangiovese grapes, and offers delicate tones of violet,
blue flower and wild berry, with warm, earthy tones in
the background. Pair this wine with tomatoes stuffed
with basil and white rice. Supreme Wines & Spirits.
—M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Salcheto 2009 Rosé (Toscana). This Tuscan rosé made using Sangiovese grapes opens
with a pink-purplish color and bright aromas of rose,
cranberry and wild forest berry. There’s a pretty touch
of bitter almond on the close. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
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La Porta di Vertine 2008 Rosato (Toscana). Here’s a sunny rosé made near the
beautiful town of Gaiole in Chianti. The blend is Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Malvasia and Trebbiano, and the
wine offers both fresh fruit and floral aromas. The Vine
Collective. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
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Il Valentiano NV Note di Rosa Rosé (Toscana). This Vino da Tavola rosé has no appellation or vintage date, butopens with ripe strawberry
nuances and sweet almond paste. It offers a powdery,
semisweet feel in the mouth. Vidalco International,
LLC. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
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a true masterpiece with amazing intensity and complexity. Mionetto USA. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $55/375 ml
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Fattoria Le Pupille 2006 SolAlto (Maremma). This beautiful dessert wine from southern
Tuscany (representing a blend of equal parts Traminer, Sauvignon and Sémillon) opens with ripe apricot,
honey, toasted almond and candied fruit aromas. The
chewy, rich sweetness of the wine is the main protagonist. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30/375 ml
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ITALIAN MOSCATO
Cà ed Balos 2011 Moscato d’Asti. This is
a beautiful Moscato d’Asti with peach mousse,
tangerine, white almond, honey, ginger and spring flower. Perfect for nut-based desserts, the sparkler is soft
and sweet with a distant touch of tangy spice on the finish. Delectatio Wines. —M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $14
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Cascina La Ghersa 2011 Giorgia (Moscato d’Asti). Giorgia presents textbook Moscato
d’Asti aromas of sweet flower, fragrant soap, jasmine,
honeysuckle and peach blossom. This lively sparkler
shows impressive intensity and subtle elegance with a
smooth, silky feel in the mouth. Epic Wines. —M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $19
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Ghione 2011 Piccole Gioie (Moscato
d’Asti). Piccole Gioie (“little joys”) delivers a
steady stream of tiny bubbles that form a foamy, creamy
appearance and texture. In fact, a frothy cap remains
long in the glass and provides a solid platform for aromas of honey, peach blossom, fragrant flower and dried
sage.Epic Wines. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $16
Gianni Doglia 2011 Moscato d’Asti. This
pretty Moscato d’Asti shows a rich, creamy
quality, thanks to the sweet tones of honey, peach and
exotic fruit that drive the bouquet. The texture is sticky
and thick, but a zesty touch of fresh acidity shows up
right at the end to keep the palate refreshed. USA Wine
West. —M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $NA/1.5 L
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Terre di Talamo 2010 Vento Teso Viognier
(Maremma). This Tuscan expression of Viognier doesn’t show the intense floral aromas you usually
find in this fragrant grape variety. Instead, you get layers of citrus, pear and white peach. Michelangelo Selections. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
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Capezzana 2005 Riserva (Vin Santo di
Carmignano). This gorgeous Vin Santo from
the Carmignano subzone of Tuscany is made with 90%
Trebbiano and 10% Sancolombano. With a luscious,
dark amber color, this sweet wine offers smooth, long
tones of raisin, dried apricot, honey and toasted nut. It’s
La Gironda di Galandrino 2011 Moscato d’Asti. This bright Moscato d’Asti delivers
pure expressions of both the fragrant Moscato grape
and the special territory in northern Italy that shaped
this delicate dessert wine. Floral aromas of honeysuckle
and jasmine are presented in a compact, elegant manner thanks to the temperate growing conditions in Piedmont. The finish is creamy, frothy and rich. Wine Appellations Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $8
Luca Bosio 2011 Moscato d’Asti. Luca Bosio’s pretty Moscato d’Asti opens with characteristic aromas of ginger, tangerine skin and acacia flower.
This sweet sparkler presents a mouthful of creamy foam
and bright bubbles. Quintessential Wines. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $18
Fattoria Le Pupille 2010 Poggio Argentato (Toscana). Poggio Argentato opens with
a bright bouquet of green apple, kiwi, cut grass and
lemon zest. You’ll also recognize green caper and olive
notes on the finish. The wine shows good density, freshness and would pair with smoked salmon and cream
cheese. Winebow. —M.L.
Price: $20
abv: 12.5%
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Batasiolo 2010 Bosc Dla Rei (Moscato
d’Asti). Soft and delicately sweet, Moscato
Bosc Dla Rei opens with a light, foamy appearance and
plush layers of peach cream and lemon mousse. Fragrant, fresh and sweet, pair it with fruit salad. Boisset
Family Estates. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $16
Bava 2011 Bass Tuba (Moscato d’Asti).
Bass Tuba is a sweet sparkling dessert wine that
opens with an off-gold color and ripe aromas of peach,
honey, candied fruit and mango. It’s a bold, concentrated Moscato d’Asti with a thick, creamy mouthfeel,
bright sweetness and piquant touch of white pepper.
Wine Wave. —M.L.
abv: 4.5%
Price: $24
Massolino 2011 Moscato d’Asti. Here’s a
lovely Moscato d’Asti with a pristine and bright
quality to both the bouquet and mouthfeel. Not as
creamy and frothy as most, the wine drinks like a still
sweet wine (the bubbles are light and delicate) with a
zesty touch of lemon zest on the close. A perfect apéritif
wine. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $19
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Mauro Sebaste 2010 Moscato d’Asti.
Mauro Sebaste has produced a creamy, elegant
Moscato d’Asti with lovely notes of white flower and
soapy foam. Sweet flavors of peach and honey are followed by a touch of zesty lemon. Tutto Vino. —M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $20
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Michele Chiarlo 2011 Nivole (Moscato
d’Asti). Sweet, fragrant and intense, this pretty Moscato d’Asti opens with musky tones of melon,
stone fruit, acacia flower and honeysuckle. The wine is
creamy, rich and soft with pretty tangerine mousse on
the close. Kobrand. —M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $13/375 ml
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Michele Chiarlo 2010 Nivole (Moscato
d’Asti). This precious Moscato d’Asti opens
with soft foam and sweet aromas of peach, honey, almond blossom and jasmine. Pair this delicious dessert wine with fruit ice cream or semifreddo. Kobrand.
—M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $15/375 ml
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Oscar Bosio 2011 La Bruciata (Moscato
d’Asti). La Bruciata is a foamy, creamy and soft
Moscato d’Asti with pretty aromas of honey, peach blossom and musky exotic flower. The wine is superrich and
frothy in the mouth, thanks to the generous quality of
the silky bubbles. Baroness Wines. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $14
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Tenuta Olim Bauda 2011 Centive (Moscato d’Asti). Centive is a pleasant and lively
Moscato d’Asti with fragrant tones of dried flowers, jasmine soap, lavender honey and sun-ripened peach. The
smooth mouthfeel is capped by loads of frothy cream.
Admiralty Beverage. —M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $16
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Bersano 2011 Monteolivo Moscato
d’Asti. For full review see page 11. Best Buy.
abv: 5%
Price: $11
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Bersano 2011 San Michele (Moscato
d’Asti). Loaded with honey, marzipan, peach
and exotic fruit, this special expression of Moscato
d’Asti delivers a thick, creamy feel in the mouth with
foamy mousse and soapy intensity. Pair this with sugary
almond cookies. Vin Divino. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $12/500 ml
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Castello del Poggio 2011 Moscato d’Asti.
This foamy Moscato d’Asti opens with bright
aromas of tangerine flower, dried ginger, acacia flower and honey. The softly bubbly wine shows sweetness
followed by a crisp accent on the finish. Zonin USA.
—M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $16
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Duchessa Lia 2011 Moscato d’Asti. This
sweet sparkling wine shows a steady, creamy
texture with tangerine mousse, wild flower, honey,
peach blossom and soapy foam. The long sweet finish
would match well with baked apricot pie. Italian Wine
Growers. —M.L.
Price: $18
abv: 5.5%
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Tenimenti Ca’ Bianca 2011 Moscato
d’Asti. This bright Moscato d’Asti opens with
full, generous tones of peach, honey, acacia blossom,
jasmine and freshly peeled tangerine skin. The rich and
foamy mouthfeel would pair with soft cheese on dry rye
crackers. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $15
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Villa Lanata 2011 Cardinale Lanata
(Moscato d’Asti). The cardinal rules of
Moscato d’Asti are frothy mousse, fragrant floral aromas
and a simple mouthfeel. Cardinale Lanata follows them
all and this bright dessert wine would pair with pastries
or meringues. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $17
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Arbiola 2010 Ferlingot (Moscato d’Asti).
Fragrant and foamy, this soft and plush Moscato d’Asti opens with orange blossom, honeysuckle and
peach cobbler aromas. It’s smooth and sweet, with
creamy mousse on the finish. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 12.5%
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Bella Bollè 2011 Moscato d’Asti. Packaged
in an electric blue bottle, Bella Bollè is a soft,
foamy sweet sparkler with bright aromas of peach blossom, dried ginger, sage, white flower and musky soap.
The quality of the bubbles is creamy and rich. Prestige
Wine Group. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $9
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Bersano NV Moscato (Asti). Here’s a cheerful, fresh and fragrant sparkling Asti with bright
aromas of white flower, ginger, stone fruit and lemon
soda. There’s a zesty touch of fresh spice or white pepper on the creamy finish. Vin Divino. —M.L.
abv: 7%
Price: $13
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Cantina Vallebelbo 2011 Moscato d’Asti.
Here’s a forthy and fresh Moscato d’Asti with
28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
fragrant aromas of honey, stone fruit and fragrant flower
available at a competitive price. The wine is sweet and
bright with a soapy touch of dried lavender on the close.
Italian Wine Growers. Best Buy. —M.L.
Price: $10
abv: 5.5%
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Cantina Vallebelbo 2011 San Maurizio
(Moscato d’Asti). Fresh, piquant and bright,
this Moscato d’Asti opens with slightly green aromas of
wild flower, cut grass, wild sage and dried hay. The wine
is plush and creamy, with a long, sweet endnote that recalls honey, marzipan and peach. Italian Wine Growers. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $NA
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Cinzano NV Moscato (Asti). This celebrated
Italian brand continues its historic production
of sweet sparkling wine from northern Italy. Made with
Moscato Bianco grapes, this expression is fresh, with
steely effervescence and a sweet, fruity note with hints
of peach and honey. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
Price: $13
abv: 7%
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Duchessa Lia NV Moscato (Asti). Fresh,
fragrant and floral, this sweet sparkling wine offers aromas of peach, honey, white flower, wild sage and
dried hay. The wine is plush and creamy with a thick effervescent mousse. Italian Wine Growers. —M.L.
abv: 7%
Price: $15
finish, with a softly sweet endnote. Italian Wine Growers. —M.L.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $9
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Demarie 2010 Moscato d’Asti. This bright
Moscato d’Asti opens with a pristine appearance and a radiant pale gold color. The aromas are
slightly closed and nutty, with white almond, stone fruit
and yellow rose. There’s a touch of crushed white pepper at the very end. Uva Imports. —M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $20
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Fratelli Martini 2011 Casa Sant’Orsola
Moscato (Asti). Compared to Moscato d’Asti,
Asti is a sparkling dessert wine with slightly more alcohol and more bite to its bubbly effervescence. This expression is pure and clean, with simple white flower and
stone fruit aromas followed by a sweet, fresh finish. W.J.
Deutsch & Sons. —M.L.
abv: 7%
Price: $14
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Isolabella della Croce 2010 Valdiserre
(Moscato d’Asti). There’s a fresh, almost
spicy quality to the nose, with fresh fruit, acacia flower, honey and crushed white pepper. The wine is steady
and smooth on the palate, with a creamy texture and
a foamy mousse. Patagonia Wine & Imports, LLC.
—M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $17
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Enrico Serafino 2011 Moscato d’Asti.
Honey, candied nut, yellow flower, candied
fruit and peach aromas open the bouquet of this bright,
sweet sparkling wine. The effervescence is subdued,
but the wine shows a rich, creamy mouthfeel regardless. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $14
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Santero 2011 Santo (Moscato d’Asti).
Santo is a creamy Moscato d’Asti with ripe fruit
aromas of yellow rose, honey and apricot. The wine
shows a thick, bold style ,with an off-gold color and
plenty of sweetness on the sticky finish. Atlas Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $10
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OTHER PIEDMONT
Santero 2011 Villa Jolanda (Moscato
d’Asti). Packaged in a handsome bottle, this
bright Moscato d’Asti is musky and sweet (as tradition dictates) and opens with aromas of peach blossom,
white almond skin and honey. Pair this wine with tangerine mousse or chopped fruit salad. Monsieur Touton
Selection Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $14
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Vino dei Fratelli 2011 Moscato d’Asti.
There’s a sweet, sticky quality to this Moscato
d’Asti that would match cream puddings or cooked fruit
desserts. Fragrant aromas of yellow flower, honey, apricot and tangerine emerge on the bouquet. Quintessential Wines. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $16
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Cantina Vallebelbo 2011 San Maurizio
Moscato (Asti). The bouquet reveals subtle
notes of honey, white flower and peach blossom. This
sweet sparkler also shows a milky or creamy note on the
Mondoro NV Moscato (Asti). Frothy cream
and a thick white mousse cap this bright, sparkling Asti as the wine is poured in the glass. Floral and
fruity aromas of jasmine and peach appear on the bouquet and the mouthfeel is silky and easy. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $15
Tosti NV Moscato (Asti). Tosti’s sparkling
Asti offers a saccharine-sweet quality and aromas of lemon soda, candied fruit and honey. Perfect for
dried biscuits or fresh fruit, the wine is soft, round and
sticky on the close. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $14
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Borgo Isolabella 2005 Isolabella della
Croce Solìo Moscato (Loazzolo). From
the Loazzolo subzone of Piedmont, this beautiful dessert wine presents generous aromas of fresh flower,
apricot, honey, baked pear and Golden Delicious apple. The mouthfeel is rich, long and smooth. Patagonia
Wine & Imports, LLC. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $40/375 ml
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Moscadoro 2010 Moscato (Piedmont).
This easy sparkling Moscato from northern Italy
opens with aromas of yellow rose, peach, honey and almond skin. The wine is sweet, but not exaggeratedly so,
and offers a light, delicate effervescence. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $12/375 ml
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Tosti NV Rosato Moscato (Piedmont).
Moscato Rosato is a sweet sparkling rosé with
a bright raspberry color and tangy layers of forest fruit
and lemon soda. There’s a sharp, almost pungent aspect
to the effervescence that removes the heaviness or cloying quality of the wine’s natural sugar content. Prestige
Wine Group. —M.L.
Price: $14
abv: 6.5%
sweet and foamy with a touch of citrus-like acidity on
the close. San Antonio Winery. —M.L.
abv: 6%
Price: $15
as well as green herbs, spice and yeast. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
Price: $25
abv: 11.5%
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Franz Haas 2009 Moscato Rosa (Alto
Adige). Moscato Rosa is a crimson-colored
sweet wine with dark ruby highlights that offers simple
but fresh aromas of wild raspberries and blueberries.
The wine’s bouquet is fragrant, sweet-smelling and intense. Drink it as an apéritif or with fruit-based desserts.
Winebow. —M.L.
Price: $50/375 ml
abv: 12%
87
Nals Margreid 2010 Moscato Giallo (Alto
Adige). Here’s a dry expression of Moscato
Giallo grapes from cool-climate northern Italy (where
fresh floral aromas tend to be more intense) that opens
with a bouquet of honey, acacia flower and stone fruit.
The wine is fresh and clean, with a touch of bitter almond on the finish. Massanois Imports. —M.L.
Price: $20
abv: 12.5%
86
Abbazia di Novacella 2010 Praepositus
Moscato Rosa (Alto Adige). Made using
Moscato Rosa, this is a unique dessert wine that opens
with a deep ruby color and bright aromas of wild berry
and white chocolate. Smooth, sweet and thick, it also
shows a touch of tannic firmness on the close. Vintage
Epicure. —M.L.
Price: $43/375 ml
abv: 13%
85
Mochetto 2011 Pink Moscato (Delle
Venezie). This is a sweet, pink sparkling wine
(made mostly with Moscato grapes) from northern Italy
that would pair well with raspberry tarts or strawberry pudding. The wine offers an easy bouquet of stone
fruit and pink rose. It finishes with bright sweetness and
foamy cream. Quintessential Wines. —M.L.
Price: $17
abv: 5%
85
Vino dei Fratelli 2011 Mochetto Pink
Moscato (Delle Venezie). This pale pink
sparkling wine offers easy aromas of sweet raspberry and pink grapefruit. It’s a rosé sparkler made from
Moscato grapes that will pair well with fruit ice cream
or panna cotta with fresh forest berries. Quintessential
Wines. —M.L.
Price: $17
abv: 5%
83
Caposaldo 2011 Moscato (Pavia). Here’s
an easy, no-fuss Moscato with a bright, crystalline appearance and fresh aromas of spring flower,
peach and honey baked almond. The wine presents a
full, creamy finish with mild foaming and effervescence.
Kobrand. —M.L.
Price: $15
abv: 7%
83
Poderi Arancio NV Stella Rosa Il Conte
Orange Moscato Fior d’Arancio (Colli Euganei). This sweet sparkling wine opens with a pungent tone of freshly squeezed tangerine skin, with citrus and more grapefruit at the back. The wine is very
Feudi del Pisciotto 2010 Femme Fatale
Blumarine Moscato (Sicilia). Made with
late-harvest grapes, this strange dessert wine shares the
sweet, syrupy characteristics of a passito and the resiny,
caramel-like intensity of Marsala. The wine opens with
a dark amber color, aromas of butterscotch and candied
chestnut, followed by a sweet, sticky mouthfeel. —M.L.
abv: 16%
Price: $NA
85
Candoni NV Moscato d’Italia (Puglia). The
sweet sparkling Moscato style is from northern
Italy, the bottle’s Etruscan theme is from central Italy
and the fruit is sourced in Puglia, southern Italy. It’s
a wine of mixed messages, but Candoni’s marketable
Moscato d’Italia shows a simple sweet mouthfeel and
bright aromas of jasmine and wild flower. Arel Group
Wine and Spirits Inc. —M.L.
abv: 6.5%
Price: $14
85
Luca Bosio 2011 Moscato (Puglia).
Foamy, creamy and rich, this sweet sparkler
opens with easy aromas of tangerine skin, jasmine and
dried ginger. Fruit is sourced in Puglia, southern Italy
and there is in fact a warm, ripe quality to the intense
sweetness. Quintessential Wines. —M.L.
abv: 4.5%
Price: $15
84
Casal Nova 2011 Moscato (Puglia). From
the deep south of Italy, this fragrant Moscato
opens with generous aromas of orange, apricot, yellow
rose and honey. This sparkling dessert wine is sweet,
heavy and ripe in the mouth. Quintessential Wines.
—M.L.
abv: 4.5%
Price: $14
ALSACE
WHITE WINES
90
Pierre Sparr 2010 Réserve Gewürztraminer (Alsace). An intense wine, its spice
finely integrated with a more fruity character. It has
the classic Gewürztraminer lychee flavor but this is balanced with acidity, ripe baked apple and mineral structure. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
89
Pierre Sparr 2010 Réserve Pinot Gris (Alsace). Spice and cream combine in a rounded,
soft, very ripe wine. It has intense flavors of lychee and
white peach with a refreshing amount of acidity. The
wine is dry, but rich from the ginger and with a peppery
final bite. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
88
Hugel 2006 Riesling (Alsace). Approaching maturity, here is a Riesling that still has a refreshing citric character, intensely tangy perfumed fruit
Pierre Sparr 2010 Réserve Pinot Blanc
(Alsace). Attractively balanced wine, with
refreshing acidity cutting through the apple and pear
flavors. It has some tangy minerality as well as a really fresh but rich aftertaste. Screwcap. W.J. Deutsch &
Sons. —R.V.
Price: $14
abv: 12%
88
Pierre Sparr 2010 Riesling (Alsace). Tight
grapefruit flavors, very perfumed and totally dry
and crisp, this is a pure-fruited wine, packed with acidity, flavors of white currants and a final zesty minerality.
Screwcap. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V.
Price: $14
abv: 12%
88
Trimbach 2008 Riesling (Alsace). Beautifully perfumed wine, its white fruits transformed into a mature, almond and herbal wine, tight
and dry while showing delicious, appetite-enhancing
freshness. Ready to drink now. Esprit du Vin. —R.V.
Price: $25
abv: 12.5%
87
Pierre Sparr 2010 Gewürztraminer (Alsace). Perfumed wine, all its flavors directed
towards a spice-driven lychee character. Rosehip and
peppered pineapple are layered with soft, ripe texture.
Screwcap. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V.
Price: $18
abv: 13%
86
Domaine Bott-Geyl 2007 Métiss Pinot
Blanc (Alsace). A rich yellow fruit- and pepper-dominated wine. It is rounded, ripe and soft, with a
maturity that gives flavors of almonds, nutmeg and light
acidity. Vanguard Wines. —R.V.
Price: $16
abv: 12.5%
86
Hugel 2010 Gentil Hugel (Alsace). A dry
blended wine, with attractive rich white fruits,
pears and a citrus streak. The wine has a smooth texture, perfumed by lychee and with bright acidity to finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
Price: $15
abv: 12.5%
86
Pierre Sparr 2010 Pinot Gris (Alsace).
With a light touch of spice and some richness,
this is a dry style of Pinot Gris. It has a kiwi fruit flavor
along with white fruits, and finishes with pepper. Screwcap. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V.
Price: $18
abv: 13.5%
BURGUNDY
WHITE WINES
98
Domaine Leflaive 2009 Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet. With its concentrated yellow fruits, this is already a powerful wine. It is packed
with acidity, toast, peach flavors and minerality, starting
out as a gorgeously rich wine from a ripe vintage. Of
course, it will age over many years; open in 10 years.
Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $410
abv: 13.5%
WineMag.com | 29
95
Domaine Leflaive 2009 Les Folatières
Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). A wine
that brings out intense minerality, a tight citric tang and
a beautiful structure. With its lime and grapefruit acidity laid over ripe yellow fruits shot through with toast,
this is a wine that should age many years, mellowing into
an open, generous richness. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $215
94
Domaine Leflaive 2009 Les Combettes
Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). While
the aromas of this young wine reveal considerable toast,
on the palate the wine brings forward the ripe apricot
and mango flavors to go with that wood. As it matures,
these elements will coalesce with the taut, tense mineral
texture into an superb, ageworthy terroir-driven wine.
Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $225
94
Domaine Leflaive 2009 Les Pucelles Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). This rich
wine balances ripe yellow fruits with intense citrus acidity in a harmonious whole. Its structure is laden with
minerality, toast and a smooth, delicious creamy aftertaste. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V.
Price: $260
abv: 13.5%
94
acter that offers a bright acidity. It has density and richness, fruity and forward. Vanguard Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
87
Olivier Leflaive 2009 Aligoté du Domaine
(Bourgogne Aligoté). From one of the
Leflaive family vineyards close to Puligny-Montrachet,
this is as rich as Aligoté can get. Even so, the texture is
crisp, with fresh kiwi and herbs, finishing with intense
acidity. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $17
85
Louis Jadot 2009 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Soft, ripe fruit flavors of apple, peach
and melon crispened with acidity. The wine is smooth
and rounded, with a fine, fresh aftertaste. Kobrand.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
84
Vignerons de Buxy 2008 Buissonnier
Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Light, creamed
apple fruits with a bright line of fresh acidity. The wine
is exuberant in its citrus character, just broadened by
an underlay of green apples. Metrowine Distribution.
—R.V.
Price: $15
abv: 12.5%
RED WINES
Domaine Leflaive 2009 Sous le Dos
d’Ane Premier Cru (Meursault). Rich and
rounded, packed with yellow fruits and pineapple flavors, this is a warm, opulent wine, combining toast and
fruit. True, there is some minerality, but this Meursault
revels in its ripe fruit and generosity. Wilson Daniels
Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $155
Louis Jadot 2009 Corton-Pougets. A
gorgeously rich wine, powered by tannins but
just as importantly by ripe berry fruit and crisp acidity. Smoky wood flavors blend with juicy fruit, powerful
dark tannins and an intensely fresh finish. Age for seven
years or more. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $110
Domaine Leflaive 2007 Sous le Dos
d’Ane Premier Cru (Meursault). While the
wine does have richness, it’s the mineral and citrus side
that is coming through at this stage. The balance with
the wood aging is so right that you feel the toast rather
than tasting it. As it matures, the wine will deepen in
intensity and power, certainly over the next 5–10 years.
Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
93
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96
Louis Jadot 2009 Clos de la Barre Premier Cru (Volnay). The walled Clos de la
Barre is a Jadot monopoly. This 2009 has great depth
of flavor, hinting at the Volnay richness while remaining
structured. That makes it a concentrated wine, red and
black fruits mingling with wood and intense acidity. For
long-term aging over six years and more. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $68
Domaine Leflaive 2009 Clavoillon Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). A deliciously fruity wine, its bright apricot, pineapple and
peach flavors open and generous. Of course, there is a
more serious core of structure, lemon zest and dryness
to promise aging. At the end, though, fruit and a light
toastiness give immediate pleasure. Wilson Daniels Ltd.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $145
Louis Jadot 2009 Les Petits Monts Premier Cru (Vosne-Romanée). Just up the
slope from the grand cru of La Romanée, Les Petits
Monts has produced a wine that combines structure
with a more opulent character. That gives rich damson
and red plum fruits along with exhilarating acidity and a
firm core of tannin. The wine needs aging for 5–6 years.
Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $115
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Jean-Marc Brocard 2010 Kimmeridgien
(Bourgogne). Just an edge of butter gives
this wine roundness and extra richness. Along with this
character comes ripe peach fruit, lifted with acidity.
Ready to drink. Screwcap. Vanguard Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
87
Jean-Marc Brocard 2010 Domaine Sainte
Claire (Saint Bris). With its distinctive herbaceous edge, the wine has a grapefruit-and-citrus char-
30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
Louis Jadot 2009 Petite Chapelle Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). At this
stage, the wine is all dark structure and very firm. It will
need time to develop its full potential as an intensely
rich wine. Concentrated and firm, it is powered by tannins as well as sweet red fruits. So age for five years at
least. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $85
93
Domaine Faiveley 2009 Les Damodes
Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). A beautifully ripe wine, with the new wood just a hint in the
background. The wine has rich red plums and black
cherries, laced with the most intense acidity. It is a
dense, firmly concentrated wine with a long ahead.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $90
93
Louis Jadot 2009 Beaune Bressandes
Premier Cru (Beaune). Pure strawberry and
red cherry fruits with a twist of acidity make this a wine
that is already delicious. Just under the surface is a firm
wood-and-tannin character and a dense, if juicy, structure. Age for 4–5 years. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $44
93
Pierre André 2007 Corton les Renardes
Grand Cru (Corton). Juicy red fruits are the
veneer on a wine that is structured and complex, full of
tight tannins, intense acidity and the promise of a longterm future. The dry center of the wine holds the exuberant fruit flavors together, while the aftertaste is all
freshness. William Harrison Imports. —R.V.
Price: $140
abv: 13.5%
92
Domaine Faiveley 2009 Les Cazetiers
Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). There
is a lot of power in this wine. It has great weight and
richness and an intense structure. Hanging from the
frame of the wine are dark plum fruits, layers of wood,
sweet spice, complex acidity and dry tannins. Age for
6–7 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $100
92
Louis Jadot 2009 Vosne-Romanée. Very
structured, as befits a Vosne-Romanée, even a
village wine. The black cherry fruit and layered acidity
are combined with a firm and dry tannic core. There is
power here, and some aging potential. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $56
91
Domaine Faiveley 2009 Clos de l’Eco
Premier Cru (Beaune). A wine that is closed
up at this stage. But beneath the surface there is a wine
that will revel in delicious red fruits with barnyard flavors, ripe fruits and sweet tannins. As it opens, it reveals
richness and generosity. Frederick Wildman & Sons,
Ltd. —R.V.
Price: $70
abv: 13.5%
91
Domaine Faiveley 2009 Les Rugiens Premier Cru (Pommard). Sweet new wood goes
with rich plum skins in a wine that has a firm structure.
The richness of the wine revolves around sweet cherries
and juicy acidity. With the wood still dominant, it needs
at least five years to settle down. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $115
91
Joseph Drouhin 2009 Pommard. For full
review see page 7.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
90
Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot 2009 Lulune (Beaune). The purity of fruit is the most
striking aspect of this wine. While it is relatively light in
texture, it revels in its fresh red-fruited character that
gives an impressive intensity. With balanced touches of
tannin and acidity, the wine should age well. Domaine
Select Wine Estates. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $65
90
Joseph Drouhin 2009 Côte de Beaune.
One of the classic wines from Drouhin, this
concentrated and ripe wine has rich tannins, certainly
laced with wood. Plum and red-fruit flavors are a delicious presence to go with the firm, solid structure. Age
for 3–4 years. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $34
90
Joseph Drouhin 2009 Côte de BeauneVillages. For full review see page 8.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
89
Domaine Faiveley 2009 Clos des Myglands Premier Cru (Mercurey). Expect ripe
and open fruit from this Faiveley owned vineyard in
Mercurey. The wine tastes soft, the tannins well integrated into the ripe cherry and berry fruits. It could age,
but it is ready to drink now. Frederick Wildman & Sons,
Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
89
Domaine Moillard 2009 Rugiens Premier
Cru (Pommard). While it does have the structure of a Pommard, this is also a ripe, rounded wine. Its
sweet red fruits surround the firm tannins offering richness. A wine that will offer sold pleasure in 3–4 years.
Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $120
89
Domaine Thierry Mortet 2009 GevreyChambertin. A beautifully perfumed wine
that shows some of the structure of a Gevrey but combines this with dark rich fruits and sweet tannins. There
is a smoky flavor that balances the ripe red fruits and
final acidity. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $55
89
Joseph Drouhin 2009 Chorey-lesBeaune. For full review see page 9. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
89
Moillard 2009 Les Saint-Georges Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). A firm, darkly structured wine. It has a hard edge of smoky wood
tannins that dominate the black fruits, so it needs 2–3
years to balance out. It’s always likely to be a firm, dense
wine. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $120
88
Domaine Guillot-Broux 2009 Beaumont
(Mâcon-Cruzille). A dense wine, its tannins
firmly in place. It shows ripe red berry fruits, firm structure and rich, juicy fruit. Powered by its tannins, it will
remain a firm wine for 2–3 years. Jenny and François
Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
88
Joseph Drouhin 2009 Santenay. Rounded
and soft, with gentle tannins. Packed with black
cherry fruits, a herbal edge and sweetness, this is al-
ready an approachable wine, fruity and generous. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
88
Maurice Ecard 2009 Les Serpentières
Premier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). Soft
and ripe, this is a broad wine. Its tannins are enveloped
by the rich plum and damson fruit flavors. It combines
the richness of the vintage with the softness of a Savigny in an already delicious whole. Kysela Père et Fils.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $48
87
Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot 2009 Sous
le Mont (Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits). In the 2009 vintage, the wines of the Hautes-Côtes
have an extra richness and warmth. This wine has flavors of cherries, raspberries that give fine acidity, as well
as fruitiness. The tannins are already well integrated,
finishing a wine that is deliciously juicy. Domaine Select
Wine Estates. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $45
87
Domaine Guillot-Broux 2010 Beaumont
(Mâcon-Cruzille). A young tannic wine with
jammy, fresh red-cherry fruits and red plum skins. The
acidity is palpable, shooting through the structure, giving the wine a fresh, fruity aftertaste. Jenny and François Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
87
Joseph Drouhin 2009 Côtes de Nuits-Villages. A soft, richly fruity cherry-flavored wine.
Its tannins are so round they melt into the fruit. Acidity
gives a deliciously fresh edge to this smooth and almostready-to-drink wine. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
86
Domaine Guillot-Broux 2003 Beaumont
(Mâcon-Cruzille). There aren’t many 2003
wines available today, and this raisin and red fruit flavored wine shows plenty of attractive ripe flavors. Dried
fruits dominate, giving the wine a Port-like richness, the
tannins now comfortably integrated in the texture. Jenny and François Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
86
Domaine Moillard 2009 Côte de Nuits-Villages. A fresh wine with red cherry fruits giving a bright character, the tannins soft and with attractive acidity. It is lightly textured and should be ready to
drink in 1–2 years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
85
Garnier et Fils 2009 Epineuil Pinot Noir
(Bourgogne). On the tannic side, this is a
structured although sweetly ripe wine. Red berry fruits
are dominant, along with acidity. Coffee and dry tannins
underneath. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $29
85
Maurice Ecard 2009 Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). A light and cherry-fresh Pinot Noir
that has soft tannins, some herbal fruit and a juicy aftertaste. It shows intense acidity as well as final red berry
fruits. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
85
Vignerons de Buxy 2009 Blason de Bourgogne Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). A soft,
raspberry filled wine with a bitter cherry and dry tannic
counter-balance. The wine is light and fruity, although
still with a firm structure. Plume Ridge Negociants.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
SPAIN
WHITE WINES
89
Pazo de Barrantes 2010 Pazo Barrantes
Albariño (Rías Baixas). Pretty to sniff, with
aromas of lemon, fresh white fruits and minerals. Feels
crisp, chiseled and racy, with blazing acidity propelling green apple, lime, green melon and saline flavors.
Long on the finish. Drink now. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
87
Concertum 2010 Albariño (Rías Baixas).
Saline and oceanic on the bouquet, but largely it’s neutral-smelling. Feels tight and fresh, but tastes
a bit stalky and bitter, with baked apple and a strong
taste of straw. Finishes with white pepper notes and that
same stalky flavor from before. Well-Oiled Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
84
Villacezan 2010 Elverite Blanco Albarín
(Tierra de León). Citrusy on the nose, with
tangerine and passion fruit aromas, with white grapefruit and less-defined citrus flavors. Grapefruit persists
on the racy, tangy finish. American Estates Wines, Inc.
—M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
85
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ROSÉS
Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot 2009
Terres Burgondes Pinot Noir (Vin de Pays
de Sainte-Marie la Blanche). A vin de pays from the
hinterland of Burgundy. It is light and layered with intense red cherry acidity to give a fresh wine that can be
drunk now. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
Domaine Thierry Mortet 2009 Pinot Noir
(Bourgogne). An earthy wine with rich, red
fruits along with a barnyard flavor. The wine is ripe and
jammy, the juicy acidity coming through at the end. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $27
Zarate 2008 El Palomar Albariño (Rías
Baixas). Waxy and oily on the nose, then narrow as a thin line on the palate. Feels linear and sharp,
with lemony flavors that come with a green apple accent. Tastes aged and maderized on the finish, despite
displaying lemony acidity and tartness. Domaine Select
Wine Estates. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $60
88
Carlos Serres 2010 Serres TempranilloGarnacha Rosé (Rioja). Red in color, with
fresh aromas of nectarine, orange peel and red currant.
WineMag.com | 31
For a 2010 this is still fresh and sturdy, with cleansing
acidity and focused flavors of citrus and red berry fruit.
Eminently drinkable, with a long finish for basic rosé.
Drink immediately. Testa Wines Of The World. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
85
J. Garcia Carrion 2010 Opera Prima
Sweet Pink Rosé (La Mancha). For full review see page 11. Best Buy.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $8
84
Marqués de Riscal 2010 Rosé (Rioja).
Neutral on the nose, with peachy sweetness and
softness that suggests it’s beginning to fade. Feels honest but light, with pithy, neutral melon and red apple
flavors. Dry but sort of bland; still upright. Drink right
away. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
84
Señorio de Uñuela 2010 Rosado Tempranillo (Rioja). Labors from the start via soft,
punchless aromas of generic red fruit. Feels a little flabby, with dry, basic flavors of red apple and cantaloupe.
Turns pithy and slightly bitter on the finish. Drink now.
Devo Enterprises Corporation. —M.S.
Price: $10
abv: 14%
83
Tapeña 2010 Rosé (Vino de la Tierra de
Castilla). Neutral, dusty and a bit damp-smelling, with a leanness to the palate feel as well as flavors
of semitart melon and peach. Decent but fails to excite.
Drink now. Freixenet USA. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
PRIORAT
92
Gratallops 2006 Partida Bellvisos (Priorat). Raspberry, cranberry, schist and wild
brush aromas are about as correct for Priorat as you’ll
find. In the mouth, this wine from Sara Pérez and René
Barbier Jr. is lively, racy and pure, with red berry, vanilla, coconut and tobacco flavors. Finishes long and elegant. Drink through 2016; 166 cases made. Domaine
Select Wine Estates. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $130
91
Marco Abella 2006 Clos Abella (Priorat). Hard and crusty on first impression, with
smoky, leathery, meaty aromas along with hints of wild
herbs and dark berry fruit. Feels racy and ultraslick,
with cherry, plum and mineral flavors. Hits all the right
notes while not pushing any buttons too hard or too often; long on the finish. Drink now through 2014. Vinea
Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $68
90
Scala Dei 2006 Cartoixa (Priorat). This
perennially consistent Priorato deals graphite,
coconut, leather, forest and oaky, chocolaty berry aromas in front of a round, mouthfilling palate. Tastes primarily of plum, cherry and currant, with a snappy finish
defined by red fruit flavors and length. Perfectly good
and ready; can hold through 2014. Aveniù Brands, Inc.
—M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $52
32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
89
Cellers Unió 2006 Roureda Llicorella
Gran Selecció Vitis 60 (Priorat). Aromas of
pencil shavings, marzipan and jammy berry are sweet
and slightly candied. Flavors of Bing cherry, raisin, licorice and citrus peel are forward and tight, while the finish is long and flavorful, with some acidic tang. Lively
despite a mild raisiny quality. Drink now through 2013.
Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
Feels juicy, well-cut and tighter than in years past, with
blackberry, tea, spice and cured meat flavors. Oaky on
the back side, but complex and showing potential. Hold
through 2013, then drink. Fine Estates From Spain.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $73
RIBERA DEL DUERO
90
93
Emilio Moro 2008 Malleolus de Sanchomartin (Ribera del Duero). Richer
and more grapey than the Valdorramiro 2008, but also
friendlier, deeper and more complete. Aromas of blackberry, vanilla and sweet spices lead to a structured,
weighty palate full of spicy, oak-driven berry and plum
flavors. Clove notes and length define the finish. Drink
from 2014–2019 Fine Estates From Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
Price: $183
abv: 14.5%
92
Bodegas La Horra 2009 Corimbo I (Ribera del Duero). Dark as night, with charcoal,
campfire, sweet berry and jammy notes to the alluring
bouquet. Lively on the palate, with tangy acidity propelling black fruit, sweet oak, licorice and spice flavors.
Solid, well built and generally smooth. Excellent Ribera
from a very good year. Drink through 2019. Kobrand.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $63
92
Emilio Moro 2008 Malleolus de Valderramiro (Ribera del Duero). Serious wine for
serious Ribera lovers, even if it’s from a generally weak
vintage. Smells of bacon grease, graphite and dark berry fruits. Feels tight and youthfully tannic, with hickory, smoked meat, clove, toast and blackberry flavors.
Clove and spice rest heavily on the woody finish; needs
time to evolve and absorb its oak treatment. Best from
2013–2018. Fine Estates From Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: NA
Price: $212
91
Martín Berdugo 2008 Crianza (Ribera del
Duero). After it oozes rubber and bacon on the
nose, berry fruit and mild medicinal aromas settle in.
Feels full, tight and structured, with meat, black cherry and wild berry flavors. Finishes warm, chocolaty and
lightly roasted. Well-made, and impressive for the price.
Puerto Viejo Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
90
Convento Oreja 2009 Crianza (Ribera del
Duero). Full, lusty and slightly floral smelling, with notes of leather, crusty berry and hoisin sauce.
Feels thick, with body and weight along with flavors of
berry, cookie dough and floral hints. Long, meaty and
slightly herbal on the finish, with just enough complexity to nudge it ahead. Drink now through 2015. Kysela
Père et Fils. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $34
90
Emilio Moro 2008 Malleolus (Ribera del
Duero). Good berry aromas form a nice opening, and there are solid spice and herbal notes to boot.
90
Finca La Mata 2009 Ribera del Duero. For
full review see page 7.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
Prado Rey 2009 Elite Vendimia Seleccionada (Ribera del Duero). Complex, integrated and solid up front, with berry aromas, vanilla notes
and toasty oak. Feels full, thick, staunch and balanced,
with deep berry and cherry flavors leading to a toasty,
peppery finish with leftover berry flavors. Well formed
and well oaked, with excellent fruit quality. Drink now
through 2014. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
89
Alonso del Yerro 2008 María (Ribera del
Duero). A meaty, bulky, earthy style of Ribera with smoky, charred, new-oak aromas setting up
a reduced-seeming palate with roasted, sweet flavors of
black fruits and cured meats. Feels rich, sticky and candied on the finish. Needs a couple of years to knit together; may improve with bottle age. Fine Estates From
Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $102
89
Viña Vilano 2009 Crianza (Ribera del
Duero). Blackberry aromas blend with opengrained oak to create a slightly charred bouquet. A bit
acidic and edgy in feel, with a mix of herb, plum and
berry flavors. Tight, juicy and a touch short on the finish,
with dry, peppery spice notes. Drink now through 2014.
European Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
88
Dominio de Atauta 2009 Parada de Atauta (Ribera del Duero). Concentrated aromas
of berry fruits, spice and black currant jelly suggest that
the wine is full and rich. In the mouth, severe tannins
create a grinding sensation, while flavors of toast, blackberry, cassis and brown sugar lead to a heavy, burnt tasting finish that’s blocky in feel. Aviva Vino. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
RIOJA
90
Finca Valpiedra 2006 Reserva (Rioja).
Pure, condensed and dark on the nose, with
blasting aromas of blackberry, crusty spice and char,
this is packed like an overstuffed suitcase, with flavors
of jammy black fruit, fine herbs and spice. Shows more
big fruit on the finish and plenty of lasting berry flavor.
Drink now through 2014. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $42
90
Señorio de Uñuela 2006 Reserva (Rioja).
Excellent modern Rioja at a fair price. Smells
solid, with crusty minerality and toasty oak to go with
black fruit aromas. Feels flush and voluminous, with
jammy blackberry, baked fig and coffee flavors. Toasty,
meaty and dark on the finish. Drink now through 2014.
Devo Enterprises Corporation. Editors’ Choice.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $21
value-priced Graciano. Fine Estates From Spain. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
88
86
Bodegas Valdemar 2006 Conde de Valdemar Reserva (Rioja). Opens with grainy,
whispy aromas of reedy raspberry and smoky blackberry. Feels tannic and aggressive, so it punches ahead with
lively, firm flavors of raspberry, plum and strawberry.
Finishes oaky, with vanilla and dill notes. Bold Rioja to
drink now. CIV/USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
88
Señorio de Uñuela 2008 Crianza (Rioja).
Chunky aromas of sweet berry and beets announce a ripe style of Rioja. The mouthfeel is medium
to full and healthy, with focused flavors of berry, oak and
peppery spice. Long and a little fiery on the finish. Devo
Enterprises Corporation. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
88
Viña Hermosa 2007 Crianza (Rioja).
Earthy and subtle on the nose, with mellow
leafy notes, spice and fresh red-fruit aromas. Feels lively and layered, with integrated flavors of berry fruit, oak
and mocha. Creamy and long on the finish, with just
enough acidity to maintain length and feel. HGC Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
87
Bodegas Zugober 2008 Belezos Crianza
(Rioja). Lightly spiced up front, with dry wood
aromas, light cherry and floral hints. Feels juicy and
tight, with basic red-plum flavors that transition quickly
to spice and acidic crispness on a short finish. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
Bodegas Breton 2008 Loriñon Crianza
(Rioja). Floral and lightly earthy on the nose,
with a touch of latex. Feels fresh and pure, with fine
acidity pressing bright flavors of red cherry and raspberry. Gets toastier and darker on the finish, ending with
spice and clarity. Classical Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
86
Carlos Serres 2008 Old Vines Tempranillo (Rioja). Rooty and mildly sweet on the nose,
then tight and zesty in the mouth, with crisp red-fruit
flavors and citrusy snap. Feels entirely lean and crisp,
even a bit tangy. But sometimes fresh, basic Rioja has
its place. Testa Wines Of The World. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
86
Raiza 2010 Altos de Raiza (Rioja). Fresh
raspberry and plum aromas offer an inviting
opening that’s simple, easy and clean. That’s pretty
much the wine in a nutshell: it’s bright and fresh, with
lightly spiced red-berry and plum flavors. Focused and
uncomplicated. Vicente Gandia PLA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $8
86
Rioja Vega 2006 Reserva (Rioja). Charred
and burnt-smelling, and those aromas are overpowering although not necessarily bad. Feels big and
tannic, with bite to go with dark flavors of bitter coffee,
roasted black plum and wild berry. The charred, burnt
character that controls the bouquet returns with a fury
on the finish. European Heritage Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $38
86
Carlos Serres 2007 Crianza (Rioja). Light,
minerally and showing red fruit and cocoa notes
on the bouquet. Offers depth and density in support of
sweet, malty, chocolaty berry flavors. Creamy, oaky and
chocolaty on the finish. Uncomplicated and easy to like.
Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
Viña Eguía 2008 Crianza (Rioja). Coconut,
vanilla and dill aromas sit on top of solid berry
scents to form a classic Rioja bouquet. Feels fresh and
agile, with acidity that allows the wine to dance around
on the palate. Tastes of red plum, raspberry, mint and
spice. Seems oaky on the finish, but lively. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
87
85
87
Marqués de Cáceres 2008 Crianza (Rioja). Standard cherry and plum aromas are fresh,
clean and unadulterated by heavy oak, leather or earth
notes. Feels clean and dry, with nice but standard redberry and plum flavors. Has good flow and feel, with
a light dusting of spice on the finish. Vineyard Brands.
—M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
87
Pujanza 2007 Rioja. Dark and bold, with
leafy, slightly mulchy aromas that settle on
earthy and mossy. Feels round and full, with weight,
along with flavors of cola, blackberry and plum. Toasty,
dark and tasting like coffee on the finish. Grapes of
Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
87
Rio Madre 2010 Graciano (Rioja). Dark in
color, with plum, berry and medicinal aromas.
Round, full and in good shape, with dark plum, blackberry and a lot of oak for a $10 wine. Finishes creamy
and big, with a spicy aftertaste. Plump and solid for
84
Castillo Labastida 2008 Madurado (Rioja). Gaseous smelling at first, then the nose
transitions to rubbery plum and blackberry. Feels zesty
and spunky, with tangy raspberry, pie cherry and tomato
flavors. Feels racy and juicy, with a tomato-like flavor on
the finish. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
84
Criadores de Rioja 2008 Castillo de
Clavijo Crianza (Rioja). Smells a bit cheesy
and leathery, with mint and slightly chemical berry aromas. Chewy in feel, with buttery flavors of red berry and
chocolate. Tastes oaky, minty and forced, but overall it’s
not a bad wine given the price and subpar vintage. Saranty Imports. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
84
Marques de Tomares 2007 Reserva (Rioja). Baked, saucy aromas suggest the wine’s
overall character. It’s ripe and stewy, with a grippy palate
and a flavor profile full of tomato, herbs and red plum.
Tastes herbal and roasted on the finish; aggressive, savory Rioja. Parador Selections, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
84
Rivarey 2008 Tempranillo (Rioja). Dusty,
dry and lightly spiced aromas frame stalky red
fruit scents. Feels chunky and clampy, with rooty berry sweetness and rubbery bitterness on the back palate
and finish. Good, but tough around the edges. Vineyard
Brands. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
83
Cortijo 2010 Cortijo III Tempranillo-Garnacha (Rioja). Smells flat and sweet, with a
plastic-like essence. Zesty in feel but angular, with tangy
acids and candied red-fruit flavors along with a pinch of
dry spice. Tastes oaky on the finish. Tempranillo with
20% Garnacha. Ole Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
82
Viña Ijalba 2007 Graciano (Rioja). Rooty
aromas come with a caustic side, something akin
to Pine Sol or ammonia. Feels narrow and restricted,
with limited berry flavors, juniper and other weird elements. An intense wine, but not in the right way. Baron
Francois Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
Gran Familia 2008 Rioja. Sweet oak and
mint aromas vie with berry fruit on the bouquet.
Feels chunky, round and full, with sweet plum, ripe berry, lactic and mint notes. Falls off on the finish, which is
sweet but simple. Well-Oiled Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
SHERRY
85
91
Viña Palaciega 2006 Reserva (Rioja).
Starts with aromas of black cherry and kirsch,
but turns stalky and stemmy fairly quickly. Feels crisp
and a bit hard for a reserva, with herbal, zesty flavors of
roasted red berry. Falls off on the finish, but maintains
good quality. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
84
Bodegas Martinez Corta 2010 Cepas Antiguas (Rioja). Prickly smelling, with pointed
red-fruit aromas. Feels snappy and high in acid, with
quick, zippy flavors of tangy red plum and red currant.
Not too much flavor or feel on the quick, crisp finish.
Classical Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
Gonzalez Byass NV Apostoles Palo Cortado Viejo Sherry. A unique and individual
style of Sherry, even among palo cortados. It’s dark amber in color, with a pungent mix of aromas that include
molasses, raw brown sugar, chocolate and campfire.
Feels fresh on the tongue, with coffee, dark chocolate
and core peach and citrus flavors. San Francisco Wine
Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 20%
Price: $49/375 ml
91
Hidalgo NV Marqués de Rodil Palo Cortado Sherry. Light in color, with pecan pie
aromas. There’s nothing heavy or blowsy about this refined palo cortado; it’s tight in the mouth, with narrowing acidity and tangy, oily flavors of citrus, almond and
WineMag.com | 33
rancio. Long as they come on the finish, with zero excess weight. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 18%
Price: $42
but feels and tastes astringent for such an expensive bottling. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 18%
Price: $100/500 ml
91
86
Pedro Romero NV Prestige 50 Palo Cortado Viejísimo Sherry. Nutty as they come,
with a dose of honey on the bouquet. Tastes extremely
nice and powerful, with cleansing acids and complex flavors of salted peanuts, almond, baked peaches and toffee. Layered in terms of feel and delivery, with a nutty,
crisp finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 18%
Price: $125/500 ml
Alvear NV Amontillado Pedro Ximénez
(Montilla-Moriles). Sweet toffee, butter pecan and apricot aromas are the lead-in. This wine has a
light body, decent acidity and mild flavors of burnt banana, spice and almond paste. Nutty yet basic on the
finish, with a hint of mushroom. Fine Estates From
Spain. —M.S.
abv: 17%
Price: $15
90
Alvear NV Solera Cream Pedro Ximénez
(Montilla-Moriles). Toasty and sweet on the
nose, however it’s not very complex. Feels juicy and refined, with raisin, fig and date flavors. Long on the finish
and chocolaty tasting, with raisin and a lightness of being. Sweet within the style, but not unctuous or candied.
Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.
abv: 18%
Price: $29/500 ml
86
90
OTHER OLD WORLD
Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Amontillado Sherry. For affordable amontillado, this
is downright excellent. Smells nutty and oily, maybe a
touch sharp, but well within normal parameters. Feels
fresh, round and comfortable, with lots of core fruit flavor, nuttiness, sweet toffee and caramel. Finishes with
toasted pecan flavors and peanut butter notes. Semidry
in style. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 18%
Price: $15
90
Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Oloroso
Sherry. For full review see page 10. Best Buy.
abv: 18%
Price: $15
90
Hidalgo NV Villapanés Oloroso Seco
Sherry. True as dry oloroso comes, with nutty
aromas combined with caramel richness. Feels raring to
go, with pumped-up acidity that boosts otherwise normal flavors of dried white fruits, mixed nuts and brine.
Tight, long and driving on the finish. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: NA
Price: $42
Alvear NV Cream Pedro Ximénez (Montilla-Moriles). Quiet on the nose, but by no
means does it smell poor. Feels chunky, with raisin,
prune, brown sugar and baked fruit flavors. Flabby but
flavorful late, with a finish that tastes like caramel and
chocolate powder. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.
abv: 18%
Price: $15
CROATIA
89
Saints Hills 2009 Dinga Plavac Mali
(Peljesac). There’s so much nuance and complexity in this rustic yet fascinating Croatian wine, that
it takes a while to break down its components. Initial
scents of dried leaves and mulch blow off to reveal an
array of delicate floral and fruit aromas, accented by
rich chocolate and vanilla notes. Big in both alcohol and
structure, its massively tannic, but smoothes out with
aeration. Decant to drink now, but could easily evolve
for 5–10 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 15.9%
Price: $65
HUNGARY
94
Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Cream Sherry. Sweet smelling, but welcoming and true to
the cream style. Feels creamy and soft by Sherry standards, with prune, raisin, caramel, toffee and chocolate
flavors. Turns a touch bitter on the finish, with a final
dose of raisin, honey and toffee. CIV/USA. —M.S.
abv: 18%
Price: $15
Royal Tokaji 2003 Essencia (Tokaji). Surprisingly subtle, yet maddeningly complex, this
is a rare treat to unravel slowly, sip by sip. Sweet and
honeyed on the nose with scents of freesia, orange peel
and stone fruit, but accented with just a hint of sundried hay. The palate is deeply concentrated with undulating waves of honey, beeswax and fruit, but balanced
with striking tangerine acidity. Remarkably long on the
finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 2.2%
Price: $764/375 ml
88
92
89
Pedro Romero NV Prestige 50 Oloroso
Viejísimo Sherry. A fiery, demanding, extremely power-packed Sherry, with toffee, orange zest,
pecan pie and apricot aromas. Feels tight and high in
acidity, with dry, salty flavors of walnut oil and pecans.
Layered and drying on the finish, with power to spare.
Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 18%
Price: $75/500 ml
87
Pedro Romero NV Prestige 50 Amontillado Viejísimo Sherry. A nutty and acidic wine,
with aromas of pressed walnuts and toffee. Feels tight,
sharp and narrow on the tongue, with blazing acidity
and dry, limited, salty flavors that fold in toffee and sour
fruit notes. Exceedingly salty on the finish; smells great
34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2011
Royal Tokaji 2007 Red Label Aszú 5 Puttonyos (Tokaji). For full review see page 6.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $43/500 ml
91
Royal Tokaji 2009 Mád Cuvée Late Harvest (Tokaji). For full review see page 7. Editor’s Choice.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $20/375 ml
MOLDOVA
85
Exclusiv NV Rose Spumos Moscato (Moldova). Grapy and floral with loads of rose petal
notes, this Moscato is perfumey on the nose and palate. Exuberantly frothy and mouth-filling, the palate is
fleshy with sweet ripe grapes, with just a hint of stems
and leaves on the finish. Serge Import LLC. Best Buy.
—A.I.
abv: 10%
Price: $10
ROMANIAN WHITES
88
Cramele Halewood 2010 Theia Limited
Edition Chardonnay (Sebes). Pristine on
the nose and palate, this dry, full-bodied Chardonnay is
a prime example of how thoroughly modern Romanian
winemaking can be. Juicy and floral with pretty hints
of apple blossoms, it’s creamy and rich in texture, yet
impeccably refreshing on the finish. Terra Firma USA
Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
85
Cramele Recas 2010 Heavenly Retreat
Semi-sweet Riesling (Recas). White floral
aromas are pure and fresh in this apple-inflected Romanian Riesling. Soft on the palate, with restrained acidity and a delicate, almost lacy structure, it finishes with
a hint of powdered sugar sweetness. Terra Firma USA
Inc. Best Buy. —A.I.
Price: $9
abv: 12%
84
Cramele Halewood 2009 Single Vineyard
Selection Scurta Vineyard Viognier-Tamaioasa Romaneasca (Dealurile Munteniei). Exuberantly fragrant of ripe, tropical fruit and florals, this
Romanian white blend veers towards confected, but it’s
pleasantly brisk and apple-y on the palate. A good apéritif for casual, weekday enjoyment. Terra Firma USA
Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
84
Serve 2010 Terra Romana Chardonnay
(Dealu Mare). Darkly toasted oak lends a veil
of smoke and char to apple and lemon flavors in this
dry, full-bodied Chardonnay. There are hints of stems
and leaves on the midpalate, but overall, it’s a well-composed wine with balanced acidity and alcohol. Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
84
Serve 2010 Terra Romana Sauvignon
Blanc-Feteasca Alba (Dealu Mare). Appley on the nose and palate, with just a hint of dust and
green leaves, this blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Feteasca Alba is refreshing, with striking acidity. Dry and medium bodied in style. Terra Firma USA Inc. Best Buy.
—A.I.
Price: $9
abv: NA
ROMANIAN REDS
89
Cramele Halewood 2009 Hyperion Limited Edition Feteasca Neagra (Dealu
Mare). While sweet on the nose with aromas of blueberry preserves and fruitcake, the palate on this dry Romanian red is refreshingly restrained, with a fresh herbal tone that accents its ample fruit flavors. A fascinating
study of the Feteasca Neagra grape, there’s a surprising
amount of elegance that peeks through its initial rusticity. Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I.
abv: 14%
Price: $47
89
Cramele Halewood 2009 Kronos Limited
Edition Pinot Noir (Dealu Mare). Delicate
yet beguiling, with aromas of violets, ripe pomegranates
and granite, there’s an Old World elegance that sets this
Romanian Pinot Noir apart. The palate is concentrated,
with crisp red cherry and plum flavors, but keenly balanced by brisk acidity and soft, finely-grained tannins.
Structured and refined with a medium long finish. Terra
Firma USA Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
88
Cramele Halewood 2009 Hyperion Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon (Dealu
Mare). There’s a striking minerality that adds depth
to varietally characteristic scents of ripe cassis, violets
and cedar. Full bodied and densely concentrated, with
sweet, black-fruit flavor, it’s balanced by brisk acidity
and fresh herb flavors that linger on the finish. Terra
Firma USA Inc. —A.I.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
87
Serve 2007 Terra Romana Cuvée Alexandru Cabernet Sauvignon (Dealu Mare).
Whiffs of wet earth and wood add a rustic, foresty tone
to aromas of preserved black fruit and violets. Big in
both body and tannins, decanting could coax this wine
into revealing more subtleties of fruit and minerals that
may otherwise go unnoticed. Terra Firma USA Inc.
—A.I.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $59
85
Serve 2010 Terra Romana Chevalier de
Dyonis Pinot Noir (Dealurile Munteniei).
Charred wood notes on the nose and palate lend a
smoky, slightly herbal tone to dense, richly concentrated black-cherry flavors. The char subsides substantially
with aeration, revealing a well-composed wine that balances power with elegance. Terra Firma USA Inc. Best
Buy. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
84
Cramele Halewood 2009 Vitis Metamorfosis Merlot (Dealu Mare). Hints of rose
petals are a curious contrast to earthier scents of soil
and beets on this full bodied, slightly chunky Romanian
Merlot. Pleasant for everyday dining; flavors of charred
wood and preserved plum would pair nicely with an assortment of smoked meats and cheeses. Terra Firma
USA Inc. —A.I.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
TURKEY
88
Kayra 2008 Vintage Single Vineyard Collecible Series #5 Öküzgözü (Elazig).
Clean and bright on the nose, with loads of black plums
and blueberries. This wine, made from Öküzgözü
grapes, is an interesting glimpse into Turkish winemaking. Dry and medium bodied, with a firm tannic structure and brisk acidity, it finishes with a hint of milk chocolate flavor. Could benefit from decanting, but would
be an interesting to age as well. Maritime Wine Trading
Collective. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
86
Kayra 2006 Imperial Red (Elazig). Rustic
on the nose, with scents of dried herbs and grass
that mingle with pretty rose and tea-leaf notes, this wine
is an unusual blend of Turkish Öküzgözü and Bo azkere
grapes with Syrah and Petit Verdot. Full bodied and soft
on the palate, with ripe, red-fruit and mocha-chocolate
flavor, it finishes with a coating of furry tannins. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —A.I.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
UKRAINE
86
Artemovsk 2010 KrimSekt Matured Rosy
Semi-Dry (Ukraine). Aromatic, with notes
of fresh red raspberries and sweet biscuit crumbs, this
semisweet red sparkler is fun and fruity, but surprisingly brisk and quaffable. Exuberantly frothy, with a rich,
mouth-filling foam, it finishes with just a whiff of dust
and a sweet, red-berry note. Palmetto State Imports.
—A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
85
Artemovsk 2010 KrimSekt Red Matured
Semi-Sweet (Ukraine). Sweet blackberry
and blueberry notes are deeply concentrated on the
nose and palate of this Ukrainian semisweet red sparkler. Softly pétillant, it’s unabashedly fun and fruity, but
an enjoyable choice for casual entertaining. Palmetto
State Imports. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
85
Artemovsk 2010 KrimSekt White Matured
Semi-Dry Muscat (Ukraine). Sweetly floral
on the nose and palate, with hints of peach gummy candy, this off-dry Muscat sparkling might seem a bit confected, but it’s nicely concentrated, with pure, clean flavors of peach and apricot nectar. Aggressive on the attack and finishes briskly. Palmetto State Imports. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
84
Artemovsk 2008 KrimSekt White Collection Semi-Dry (Ukraine). Fresh apple notes
on the nose of this off-dry sparkling are pretty, but hindered by whiffs of dust and green stems. Softly pétillant with a creamy, mouth-filling froth, it finishes with a
pleasantly sweet note. An unusual blend of Pinot Franc,
Chardonnay, Aligote and Riesling. Palmetto State Imports. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
83
Artemovsk 2008 KrimSekt White Collection Brut (Ukraine). The nose is a tad dusty,
with hints of unripe fruit and leaves, but the palate on
this brut sparkling is clean and lemony, with a sharp,
steely profile. Aggressive on the attack, with a stark,
brisk acidity, it finishes with abundantly mouth-filling
froth. Palmetto State Imports. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
SOUTH AFRICA
CHENIN BLANC
91
Graham Beck 2009 Bowed Head Chenin
Blanc (Paarl). A ripe and forward style with
upfront notes of pineapple, softly-grilled peach, juicy
melon and a touch of spice. The mouthfeel is round and
rich, but with enough acidic cut to keep the palate fresh
and lively through the long finish. Flavors of sweet or-
ange citrus and ripe green fig linger endlessly. Maritime
Wine Trading Collective. —L.B.
Price: $28
abv: 14%
90
Rudera 2009 Robusto Chenin Blanc
(Stellenbosch). Attractively ripe aromas
of melon and softly baked apples lead the nose, with
a touch of sweet smokiness, almost like cured bacon,
following close behind. Medium weight with balanced,
lifting acidity and a spice-infused clementine rind finish.
DRG Imports. —L.B.
Price: $21
abv: 14%
89
Rudera 2009 De Tradisie Chenin Blanc
(Stellenbosch). This Chenin seems to have
an older soul than its peers, with mature notes of honeyed almond and sweet spice that infiltrate the Anjou
pear and hard peach flavors. Citrus pith adds a touch of
bitterness to the otherwise toasty, sweet spice-infused
finish. DRG Imports. —L.B.
Price: $19
abv: 14%
89
Spice Route 2009 Chenin Blanc (Swartland). A brilliant gold color, this Chenin boasts
wood-infused fruit notes of pear, peach pit and melon
alongside accents of honeysuckle and toasted brioche.
The round, slightly slick mouthfeel is elevated with a
mouthwatering acidic cut to the close. Vineyard Brands.
—L.B.
Price: $15
abv: 14%
SAUVIGNON BLANC
90
Lomond 2010 Pincushion Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Cape Agulhas). A delicious
Sauv Blanc from one of the coolest areas of South Africa, it takes a while for this wine to fully express itself.
Green pepper and grass start on the nose, but then
subside to allow green fig, lime rind and tart tropical
fruit accents to unfold. Balanced and refreshing, with
a fynbos herb note that remains through the long finish, almost like fresh hops. Stanfield & Stuart Wine Co.
—L.B.
Price: $25
abv: 13.5%
89
Morgenhof 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch). Lemon verbena
and green grass aromas waft from the glass, with secondary notes of grapefruit and stone fruit to round it
out. Vibrant acidity brightens this medium-weight
mouth, with a touch of green plum-skin flavor and soft
bitterness remaining through the lively finish. Terry
Seitz. —L.B.
Price: $19
abv: 13.5%
88
Constantia Glen 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Constantia). There’s a ripe orange-oil streak
in the background of the bouquet, boosting rich aromas
of tropical fruit and hay. The texture is full but framed
by cleansing acidity and a tart, slightly pithy accent on
the close. Amara Wines LLC. —L.B.
Price: $15
abv: 13.5%
88
Southern Right 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Walker Bay). Hay, green plum and gooseberry lead off on the nose, while ripe hints of passion
fruit and pineapple acidity flood the mouth. Lifted, with
good cut and freshness, and a mouthwatering close. DeWineMag.com | 35
licious now, but should hold together nicely for another
couple of years. Vineyard Brands. —L.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
of spice. Drink now–2015. Cape Classics. Editors’
Choice. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
88
Steenberg 2010 Private Cellar Series
Sauvignon Blanc (Coastal Region). Tart
and fresh, with lovely aromas of grass, green plum
and asparagus. Glimmers of stony minerality flash on
the palate, with lime pith and plum skin flavors driving
through to the mouthwatering finish. Brisk and slightly pricky texture. Maritime Wine Trading Collective.
—L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
91
88
91
Thelema 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Stellenbosch). There’s a detectible fynbos character
to the herbal edge of this wine, mingling with the white
peach and gooseberry fruit aromas and flavors. A clementine citrus edge remains through the long finish.
Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
86
Glen Erskine 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Elgin). A good value selection, with green notes
of bell pepper, asparagus and lime on the nose and in
the mouth. Lightweight, with good lift and a herbal
character that lingers on the finish. The Triton Collection. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
86
Morgenhof 2010 Fantail Sauvignon Blanc
(Stellenbosch). Solid and straightforward,
this refreshing and vibrant Sauv Blanc is light and approachable, with aromas and flavors of lemon, sweet
grass and pineapple core throughout. A crowd-pleasing
selection for entertaining. Terry Seitz. —L.B.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $19
85
Thelema 2010 Sutherland Sauvignon
Blanc (Elgin). A bit muted and shy on the
nose, with faint accents of fresh grass, sweet citrus and
just-ripe gooseberry. The palate offers a pithy-citrus flavor, adding a touch of bitterness to the clean close. Cape
Classics. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
CHARDONNAY
92
Hamilton Russell 2010 Chardonnay
(Hemel en Aarde). Hamilton Russell just
knows how to do Chard right, striking superb balance
and finesse in a wine that’s drinkable now but can age
for another five-plus years. Baked apple, barely-ripe
honeydew, lemon custard and a touch of beeswax dance
in the bouquet and transition seamlessly into the softlytoasted palate. A beautiful seam of acidity threads it all
together and lifts the lengthy finish. Vineyard Brands.
—L.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $32
91
Buitenverwachting 2010 Chardonnay
(Constantia). Rich, ripe and full aromas of
baked apple and melon are laced with spicy accents of
cinnamon, ginger and vanilla bean. Medium weight but
well-balanced in the mouth; bright acidity and minerality tie everything together on the palate. A lime flavor lingers on the long close, followed finally by a touch
36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
Rustenberg 2010 Chardonnay (Stellenbosch). A stunning Chard that shows the
greatness of the vintage in the wine’s superb balance between ripe fruit flavors of pear and melon and vibrant
acidity. Soft floral accents add depth to the nose, while
well-integrated oak flavors infuse the palate and spice
up the long finish. Delicious now, but shows promise
for some aging. Cape Classics. Editors’ Choice. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
Rustenberg 2009 Five Soldiers Chardonnay (Stellenbosch). Named after five stone
pine trees that stand over the vineyards, this small-production Chard is lush and toasty, offering great weight
and richness followed by a long, nutty finish. Notes
of red apple skin and peach are accented by hints of
white clover and honeysuckle that unfold with time in
the glass. Brisk lime-flavored acidity lifts the mouth and
provides freshness to the palate. Cape Classics. —L.B.
Price: $38
abv: 13%
91
Vins d’Orrance 2010 Cuvée Anaïs Chardonnay (Western Cape). Named for the
winemaker’s youngest daughter, this ripe and sweet selection boasts intense oak-driven aromas of butter and
creamy vanilla that mingle well with the honeydew, pear
and peach notes. Thankfully, there’s good cut to the
round mouthfeel, as zesty orange-flavored acidity keeps
the finish fresh and long. Drink now–2014. Broadbent
Selections, Inc. —L.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $33
90
Hartenberg 2009 Chardonnay (Stellenbosch). Rich and round but not overdone,
with a nice brightness to the apple, clementine and
white peach aromas and flavors. Balanced and well-integrated, with all of the components working together
in harmony. Closes on a brisk citrus-rind finish. Drink
now–2014. Terry Seitz. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32
89
Thelema 2009 Sutherland Chardonnay (Elgin). Forward aromas of sweet spice
and baked apple lead the nose, while secondary hints
of cobbler and vanilla cream follow. The palate is lush
and ripe, but it’s kept in check by a streak of acidity that
braces up the nutty finish. Rich, balanced and accessible. Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
84
Fairvalley 2009 Chardonnay (Western
Cape). Flashy aromas of toast and butter
mingle with tropical fruit aromas and flavors. There’s
a touch of warmth on the nose, and the mouthfeel is
round and fleshy. Drink now. World Premiere Wines
LLC. —L.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $11
VIOGNIER
88
Spice Route 2010 Viognier (Swartland).
Delicate sweet-pea and white-flower aromas
marry into forward fruit notes of fresh pear and hard
apricot. A mineral streak weaves through the lush palate, and a peach pit nuttiness lingers into the finish. Accessible and enjoyable now. Vineyard Brands. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
88
Spice Route 2009 Viognier (Swartland).
Decadent scents of buttered brioche, honeydew
and crushed yellow flowers lead the nose, while flavors
of grilled yellow peaches and orange oil flood the palate. The mouthfeel is round and full, but countered by
medium acidity and a slightly bitter note on the close.
Vineyard Brands. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
86
Radford Dale 2009 Viognier (Stellenbosch). Flashy notes of wood-grilled apple,
brioche and apricot fill the nose. The mouth is round
and the palate spicy, as flavors of ginger and cedar
dominate the stone fruit. World Premiere Wines LLC.
—L.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
MOSCATO
86
Jam Jar 2011 Moscato (Western Cape).
Soft floral hints add depth to the otherwise
straightforward ripe peach and white gummy bear aromas. There’s a good balance in the mouth, with a nice
acidic lift and slightly bitter edge to cut the sweetness
on the finish and close with the faintest hint of astringency. Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 10%
Price: $12
84
Makulu NV Sustainable Agriculture Perlè
Moscato (Western Cape). A spritzy and effervescent selection, the carbonation helps to lift the inherent sweet fruit aromas and flavors of guava, peach
and mushy pear. An ideal choice for a warm summer
day by the pool, served very cold. Prestige Wine Group.
Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 6.5%
Price: $7
84
Two Oceans 2011 Moscato (Western
Cape). Sweet but not overdone, with attractive aromas of lychee, peach and rose water. Medium
weight, with a fruity but somewhat thin finish. Drink
now. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —L.B.
Price: $10
abv: 7.5%
83
Chaza NV Moscato (Western Cape).
Sweet aromas and flavors of peach and lychee
are accented by a hint of fresh rose petals. A soft spritz
in the mouth cleans up the finish. Drink now. Prestige
Wine Group. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 6.5%
Price: $5
WHITE BLENDS
92
Bizoe 2010 Henrietta Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc (Western Cape). This beautiful Semillon-dominant blend that shows great finesse,
depth and power. Rich and opulent in every way, notes
of baked red apple, lemon verbena, honey-drizzled
peach and sweet orange oil flood the nose and mouth,
while additional flavors of hazelnut cream, fig bread
and soft sweet spice carry into the long finish. Round,
but with enough acidic lift to keep it from being flab-
by. Drink now–2015. The Triton Collection. Editors’
Choice. —L.B.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $30
90
A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines 2009
White Blend (Coastal Region). A complex,
kitchen-sink blend of 29% Chenin Blanc, 23% Roussanne, 11% Viognier, 11% Chardonnay, 10% Grenache
Blanc, 5% Colombar, 5% Grenache Gris, 2% Sémillon,
2% Clairette and 1% Verdelho, there’s a lot to be discovered in this wine. Melon, pear and sweet citrus lead
the bouquet, with nuances of orange blossom and honeysuckle, while spicy flavors of baked apple, glazed canteloupe and lightly-mulled pear flood the palate. Round
and forward, with a silky texture; give it time to open up
now or hold another couple of years. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
87
Bradgate 2010 Sauvignon Blanc-Chenin
Blanc (Stellenbosch). A lovely blend of 77%
Sauvignon Blanc and 23% Chenin Blanc, this light and
lively wine is direct and focused, with good briskness
to the green plum, fig and pear notes. A touch of floral
character adds depth to the bouquet, while a lemon rind
bitterness unfolds on the end. World Premiere Wines
LLC. —L.B.
Price: $14
abv: 13.5%
86
Boekenhoutskloof 2010 The Wolftrap
Viognier-Chenin Blanc-Grenache Blanc
(Western Cape). This blend of 67% Viognier, 19%
Chenin Blanc and 14% Grenache Blanc is crisp and
tasty, with forward aromas of pear, hard peach, yellow
florals and a touch of oak-driven spice. Roundly structured, with a lush texture and a nice, clean herbal characteristic to the close. Drink now. Vineyard Brands.
Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $11
MERLOT
90
Ernie Els 2009 Merlot (Stellenbosch). A
dark and rich style of Merlot, this wine boasts
intense aromas and flavors of black forest berries, plum
flesh, cocoa powder and pencil shavings. Succulent,
with a creamy texture, the tannins are fine but mouthcoating and provide a good frame to the sultry flavors.
Chocolate and cedar spice linger on the close. Terlato
Wines International. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
87
Glenelly 2009 The Glass Collection Merlot (Stellenbosch). Jammy black fruit and
berry notes fill the nose and mouth, while a hint of
bramble and milk chocolate add depth and interest.
Medium weight, with dusty but structured tannins, and
a fudgy finish. Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
87
Ken Forrester 2009 Merlot (Stellenbosch). Herbal accents grace the black plum
and berry aromas and flavors, and a touch of biltong
spice and meat mingle with the fruit for added character. Approachable and soft, with delicate tannins and an
easy, friendly finish. Drink now. Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
86
Helderberg Wijnmakerij 2009 Merlot
(Stellenbosch). Red plum and small berries
lead the nose of this Merlot, with hints of dusty dried
blackberry in the back. The palate offers similar flavors,
with a touch of sweet spice hanging on to the short but
clean finish. Vineyard Brands. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
mellow. Fortunately, there’s a great concentrated blackfruit core and enough acidity alongside the tannins to
support long-term aging. Spicy and earthy, with accents
of black tea, cedar and crushed violets. Try after 2016.
Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Cellar Selection.
—L.B.
Price: $31
abv: 14%
PINOTAGE
91
91
Fairview 2009 Primo Pinotage (Coastal Region). A stunning Pinotage that shows
great varietal character in its aromas and flavors of black
cherry and currant infused with spicy notes of biltong,
bark, clay, cinnamon and soft tar. The wine is firmly
structured, with gripping tannins and medium acidity,
striking a balance between the astringency of the tannins and freshness of the fruit. Nuances of baking spice
and fudge linger on the close. Tight now; try after 2015.
Vineyard Brands. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
90
Spice Route 2009 Pinotage (Swartland).
For full review see page 8.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
89
Lions Drift 2009 Silkbush Mountain Vineyards Pinotage (Breedekloof). Dusty dark
cherry and blackberry fruit dominate the nose, with secondary aromas of game, peppery spice and tobacco. The
dark fruit character continues on the palate, transitioning into the finish, which is laced with hints of mocha
and spice. Medium weight, with nice vibrancy in the
mouth. Drink now-2015. South Atlantic Wines. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
MOURVÈDRE
87
Tormentoso 2009 Mourvèdre (Paarl).
Fleshy black-plum, cherry and blackberry notes
lead this medium-weight wine, with a light dusting of
cocoa powder. Dark but vibrant in the mouth, with a
good amount of pepper and licorice on the finish. Drink
now. Vineyard Brands. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $13
RED BLENDS
93
Ernie Els 2007 Signature (Stellenbosch).
The 2007 vintage was generally a great one for
Bordeaux-style reds in Stellenbosch, and the Els Signature definitely demonstrates it. Sure, it’s ripe and sexy
with a lot of sweet oak characteristics like cocoa powder
and smoky wood, but it’s got the ripe fruit core of black
plum and dark forest berries to back it up. Spicy layers
of leather, cigar box and black tea leaves add complexity
to the palate, while chewy tannins provide a firm structure. A bit young now, so try after 2015. Terlato Wines
International. —L.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $95
92
Meerlust 2007 Rubicon (Stellenbosch).
One of the best vintages of Rubicon to date, and
for the price it’s a fantastic value that’s great for building up your cellar. Right now, the wine is still young and
tight, with firm, gripping tannins that need some time to
Constantia Glen 2008 Five (Constantia).
This stunning Bordeaux-style blend opens with
ripe aromas of black fruits like cherry, currant and plum,
laced with a serious licorice and spice streak that shows
staying power. The seductive mouthfeel boasts a slightly
creamy texture with mouthfilling tannins. The palate is
loaded with mulled boysenberry. Hints of tobacco, mocha and sweet spice all linger on the long close. Amara
Wines LLC. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $38
90
A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines 2010 Secateurs Red Blend (Coastal Region). A
complex blend of 75% Shiraz, 10% Cinsault, 8% Cab
Sauv, 6% Gren and 1% each of Carignan and Mourvèdre, this is a concentrated and flavorful selection that’s
brimming with raspberry sauce and dark berry fruit
aromas and flavors. Framed by black tea, sweet spice
and vanilla bean accents, the mouth is firmly structured
with medium tannins and acidity, ending on a soft, roasty note. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Editors’ Choice.
—L.B.
Price: $17
abv: 14%
90
Constantia Glen 2008 Three (Constantia). A great value, this Merlot-dominant blend,
with splashes of Cab Sauv and Cab Franc exudes ripe
aromas and flavors of rich dark fruit and berries jazzed
up with layers of cigar tobacco, leather, savory herbs and
tree bark. Concentrated and mouthfilling, with a velvety
texture, it’s a well-balanced wine with fine, but persistent tannins and a lengthy finish. Amara Wines LLC.
—L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
90
Mulderbosch 2008 Faithful Hound (Stellenbosch). Brims with dark fruit notes of
mulled boysenberry, cassis and black cherry, all streaked
with spicy accents of menthol and black tea leaves. The
mouthfeel is slightly creamy, but framed by medium
tannins. Notes of licorice stick, espresso and roasted cocoa nibs linger through the long close. Drink now–2014.
Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
89
Edgebaston 2010 The Pepper Pot (Stellenbosch). An interesting blend of equal
parts Syrah and Mourvèdre wiith 8% Tannat, The Pepper Pot offers concentrated aromas and flavors of dark
forest berries and fleshy black plums. A hint of leather
and game unfolds on the finish, while medium acidity
keeps the flavors fresh on the palate. Southern Starz,
Inc. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
88
Ernie Els 2010 Big Easy Red (Western
Cape). A kitchen-sink blend of 60% Shiraz,
20% Cab Sauv, 7% Grenache, 6% Mourvèdre, 4% Cinsault and 3% Viognier. Aromas of crushed violet pet-
WineMag.com | 37
als are pitted against the intense mulled-raspberry and
black-fruit core. Drinkable now, with approachable tannins and a dusty, cocoa-sprinkled finish, but could age
until 2014. Terlato Wines International. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
88
Releaf 2010 Made With Organically
Grown Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Shiraz (Western Cape). For full review see page
11. Best Buy.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
88
Tormentoso
2009
Syrah-Mourvèdre
(Paarl). For full review see page 11. Best Buy.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $13
87
Ken Forrester 2010 Petit Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Western Cape). It takes some
time for this wine to open up in the glass, but when it
does you’re greeted with black cherry and cassis aromas
laced with hints of cigar box. Structured with mouthcoating tannins and medium acidity, a leathery texture
carries through the close. Cape Classics. Best Buy.
—L.B.
Price: $12
abv: 14%
86
Boekenhoutskloof 2010 The Wolftrap
Syrah-Mourvèdre-Viognier
(Western
Cape). Bright red mixed berries are infused with a mocha streak, filling the medium weight, but juicy palate.
Straightforward and enjoyable with clean fruit flavors
and a short but softly spiced finish. Vineyard Brands.
Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $11
86
Guardian Peak 2010 Frontier Red (Western Cape). Mocha notes are upfront on the
nose, with supporting fruit elements of raspberry and
cherry flesh. Medium weight with a touch of bitter fruitskin flavors in the mouth, and a short but clean finish.
Easy and straightforward; drink now. Terlato Wines International. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
86
Leopard’s Leap 2009 Pinotage-Shiraz
(Western Cape). A funky edge frames this
wine, both on the nose and in the mouth, and adds character to the otherwise straightforward blackberry, boysenberry and fig-preserve core. Cured meat and sweet
spice grace the palate and persist through the mediumlength close. The blend is 52% Pinotage and 48% Shiraz. Kysela Père et Fils. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
85
Goats do Roam Wine Co. 2010 Red
(Western Cape). Suggestions of soft spice
and bark jazz-up the dark fruit center of this blend,
made with 75% Syrah, 13% Cinsault, 7% Mourvèdre,
4% Carignan and 3% Grenache. Mouthwatering black
cherry and raspberry sauce flavors flood the mouth
and stay through the solid finish. Drink now. Vineyard
Brands. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
85
Robertson Winery 2010 Shiraz-Mourvèdre-Viognier (Robertson). Skin-driven red
fruit characteristics abound on the nose, alongside soft
vanilla and purple floral accents. Cherry and mulberry
38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
flavors dominate in the lightly-structured mouth, and
the wine closes with a mouthwatering freshness. Indigo
Wine Group. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
competitors; try it with dessert rather than as an apéritif.
Pernod Ricard. —J.C.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $13
85
PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO
85
89
Rooiberg 2010 Roodewyn Cabernet
Sauvignon-Merlot (Robertson). With 12
months spent in French oak, this wine offers rounded
notes of boysenberry and cassis framed by hints of purple florals and sweet spice. There’s a lively lift to the
fruit in the mouth, driving the palate to a clean and juicy
finish. Drink now. Worthwhile Wine Company. Best
Buy. —L.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
Two Oceans 2010 Cabernet SauvignonMerlot (Western Cape). Soft sweet spice and
black tea characters mingle with black cherry and plum
flesh aromas and flavors. Medium weight and approachable, with dusty tannins and a clean, licorice-kissed finish. Drink now. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy. —L.B.
Price: $10
abv: 13.5%
AUSTRALIA
MOSCATO
88
Innocent Bystander 2011 Moscato (Victoria). Innocent Bystander has been ahead
of the Moscato curve, making this wine for a number
of years, and it has always been among the best from
Australia. The 2011 is perfumed and spicy, with ample strawberry and cherry fruit and a soft, frothy feel in
the mouth. Drink it over the next six months or so. Old
Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $14
86
Two Hands 2011 Brilliant Disguise
Moscato (Barossa Valley). A bit weightier than many Australian versions, this is a pale straw
Moscato with a soft, frothy mouthfeel. It’s floral on the
nose, but mainly citrusy in the mouth, finishing on lime
and grapefruit notes. Drink now. Terlato Wines International. —J.C.
abv: 8%
Price: $22/500 ml
85
Jacob’s Creek NV Sparkling Moscato
(South Eastern Australia). This pale strawcolored Moscato comes across as very citrusy and
clean—lemon more than Muscat’s typical orange. It’s
light, frothy and sweet, with a mouthwatering finish.
Pernod Ricard. —J.C.
abv: 9%
Price: $13
85
Lindemans 2010 Bin 90 Moscato (South
Eastern Australia). This is a frankly sweet,
dessert style of still Moscato. It’s modest in alcohol, offering up notes of oranges, melons and honey that are
reasonably balanced on the finish. The price makes it a
bargain. Treasury Wine Estates. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 9%
Price: $7
84
Zed NV Rosé Moscato (Australia). Zed is
a pale flamingo in color, with plenty of hallmark
Muscat aromas and flavors of orange and just a hint of
berries. It is a bit heavy and rich compared to some of its
90
Zonte’s Footstep 2010 Doctoressa di
Lago Single Site Pinot Grigio (Fleurieu
Peninsula). Nicely rounded in texture without being
flabby, this is a lively, crisp white wine, well endowed
with flavors reminiscent of melon, pear and lime. Perfect to drink now with most seafood dishes, or as an
apéritif. Old Bridge Cellars. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
Hazyblur 2010 Pinot Gris (Kangaroo Island). This wine almost quivers with freshness
when first sniffed, it’s so vibrant and citrusy. Then it
broadens out nicely on the palate, delivering ripe melon and apple flavors and ample weight. Drink it now
and over the next few months. Baum Wine Imports Inc.
—J.C.
Price: $23
abv: 14%
88
Sidewood 2010 Pinot Gris (Adelaide
Hills). This medium-bodied dry white is notable for its balance and harmony. Citrus, wet stone and
green apple aromas and flavors all come into play, none
of them dominant, then end on a bright, grapefruity
note. Drink now. USA Wine West. —J.C.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
87
Robert Oatley 2010 Pinot Grigio (Adelaide Hills). This Pinot Grigio is faintly coppery in color (trendy in some circles), with slightly floral and citrus overtones. It’s modest in alcohol, but reasonably plump on the midpalate, delivering melon and
apple-skin flavors before finishing crisp and refreshing.
Drink now. Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. —J.C.
abv: 12.2%
Price: $17
85
James Oatley 2010 Tic Tok Pinot Grigio
(Adelaide Hills). Another faintly copper-hued
Pinot Grigio from the Oatley family, this one offers
modest apple, melon and citrus notes, medium body
and a slightly tannic edge to the tart, lemony finish.
Drink now. Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. —J.C.
Price: $14
abv: 12.8%
SAUVIGNON BLANC
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Plantagenet 2010 Omrah Sauvignon
Blanc (Great Southern). An intense, flavorful rendition of Sauvignon Blanc, this is grapefruity
from start to finish, balanced by slightly riper notes of
pineapple and a custardy richness to the wine’s texture.
Pair it with bold fish dishes over the next 6–9 months.
Old Bridge Cellars. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
88
Katnook Estate 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
(Coonawarra). Coonawarra’s not known for
Sauvignon Blanc, but this is a very good example. It’s
medium in weight and dominated by citrus, but it also
sneaks in some slightly tropical nuances before ending
in a zesty, mouthwatering finish. Drink now. Victoire
Imports. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
88
Taltarni 2009 Three Monks Fumé Blanc
Sauvignon Blanc (South Eastern Australia). This takes a page from California in its naming
convention and style, which includes a good proportion
of barrel-fermentation and oak maturation. Toast and
vanilla frame melon and fig notes, and the midpalate
is slightly creamy in texture before the wine turns crisp
and lemony on the finish. Drink now. Clos Du Val Wine/
Goelet Wine Estates. —J.C.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
87
Sidewood 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Adelaide Hills). This could be straight out of New
Zealand given its styling, which features pungent notes
of crushed tomato leaf and gooseberries. It’s light and
refreshing, with a clean, crisp finish. USA Wine West.
—J.C.
Price: $18
abv: 12.5%
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
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Wakefield Estate 2006 St. Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon (Clare Valley). For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
92
page 6.
abv: 14.5%
Penley Estate 2008 Reserve Estate
Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). It’s slightly oversized to be truly a classic representation of Coonawarra Cabernet, but this wine still
punches all the buttons, from cassis and cedar to mint
and earth. It’s firmly structured, with a finish that manages to be dry, velvety and mouthwatering, all at the
same time. Drink now–2020. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
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90
James Oatley 2010 Tic Tok Sauvignon
Blanc (Western Australia). This is a fresh,
grapefruity wine, accented by fresh cut grass and green
herbs. It’s nicely proportioned and medium bodied,
with a tart, slightly pithy edge to the finish. Drink now.
Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. —J.C.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $14
85
Coldstream Hills 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
(Yarra Valley). Coldstream Hills is better
known for its Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs than its Sauvignon Blanc, but this is a solid effort. It’s medium in
body, with simple grapefruit and pineapple flavors and a
crisp, clean finish. Treasury Wine Estates. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
OTHER WHITE WINES
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Zonte’s Footstep 2010 The Love Symbol Single Site Savignin Blanc Savagnin (Langhorne Creek). Once thought to be Albariño, this grape variety is actually native to France’s
Jura. In this example from South Australia, it’s a lean,
crisp white, with hints of pencil shavings that accent its
grapefruity flavors. It’s pretty, harmonious and a good
all-around white for drinking over the next 6–9 months.
Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
85
Tamburlaine 2009 Wine Lovers Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay (Orange). This
50-50 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay is a
light-bodied, crisply focused wine. Lime and green apple notes dominate. MHW, Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $15
Price: $38
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D’Arenberg 2010 The Broken Fishplate
Sauvignon Blanc (Adelaide Hills). The relatively cool Adelaide Hills are making a name for their
Sauvignon Blanc, and this example shows a restrained,
grassy bouquet and flavors of grapefruit and tangerine.
It’s plump on the midpalate, then almost razor-sharp on
the finish. Drink now. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
Peter Lehmann 2006 Mentor Cabernet
Sauvignon (Barossa). For full review see
Morambo Creek 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Padthaway). A good value in New
World Cabernet, with supple, silky tannins framing cassis fruit that’s just starting to show some evolution toward cedar, leather and earth. Lingering vanilla and a
burst of tart berries mark the finish. Drink now–2018.
Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
Penley Estate 2009 Phoenix Cabernet
Sauvignon (Coonawarra). For full review
see page 8. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
89
Katnook Estate 2009 Founder’s Block
Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). This
is a classically styled Coonawarra Cab, with ample cassis, cedar and mint wrapped up into a balanced, wellproportioned whole. The Katnook style favors silky
tannins over power, making this elegant Cabernet one
to drink over the next several years. Victoire Imports.
—J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
88
Katnook Estate 2006 Odyssey Cabernet
Sauvignon (Coonawarra). Katnook’s top
Cabernet is always oaky, and the 2006 is no exception,
featuring plenty of brown sugar and caramel aromas.
Vanilla and cedar dominate the palate, forming an attractive wooden shell over cassis fruit. Drink it now if
you like that sort of full-on youthful oak, or hold it a decade until it develops a soft, rich patina of age. Victoire
Imports. —J.C.
Price: $43
abv: 14%
88
Parker 2008 Coonawarra Estate Terra
Rossa Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). A solid example of Coonawarra Cabernet, the 2008
Terra Rossa features a charming combination of cherrycassis fruit and eucalypt with cigar box and vanilla. It’s
medium to full in body, with fine balance and a long
finish. Drink now–2016. Rathbone Wine Group. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
88
Yalumba 2009 Menzies The Cigar Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). There’s
a bright, almost Ribena-like quality to the fruit in this
wine, with underlying hints of wood and mint. It’s full
bodied, but the tannins are modest and softly rounded,
making it deceptively easy to down. Drink now–2018.
Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
87
Katnook Estate 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). An easy-drinking Coonwarra Cab, with regionally characteristic notes of cassis,
cedar and mint. It’s medium in weight, with a finish that
turns tart and tea-like. Drink now–2017. Victoire Imports. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
RED BLENDS
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Yalumba 2004 The Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon-Shiraz (Barossa). A blend of
69% Cabernet and 31% Shiraz, Yalumba’s 2004 The
Reserve is still firm and dusty on the finish, suggesting
at least another 2–3 years of cellaring are warranted.
Cassis, caramel, earth and vanilla notes are all nicely integrated into a cohesive whole, with the result being a
dark, chocolaty wine that’s savory as much as it is fruity.
Negociants USA, Inc. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
Price: $125
abv: 13.5%
90
S.C. Pannell 2008 Pronto Red (Adelaide).
Pronto red is 77% Grenache, with the remainder a blend of Touriga Nacional (11%), Syrah (7%) and
Monastrell (5%). It starts off with leather and spice, then
folds in cherries and licorice. It’s full-bodied, round and
slightly warm, with a supple, spice-driven finish. Drink
now-2015. Epicurean Wines. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $69
89
Inkberry 2009 Mountain Estate ShirazCabernet Sauvignon (Central Ranges).
This 60-40 blend combines Shiraz’s blackberry fruit
with Cab’s slightly herbal notes to make a pretty marriage. It shows enough firmness to stand up to rich, fatty
meats now, or to sustain it through up to a decade of cellaring. Lion Nathan USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $14
88
Greg Norman Estates 2008 Cabernet
Merlot (Limestone Coast). At only 7% Merlot, it’s unclear why it’s even mentioned on the label,
especially since it seems to be so obviously Cabernet in
style. Cassis and chocolate notes dominate this richly
textured, full-bodied red. Drink now. Treasury Wine
Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
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Penley Estate 2008 Chertsey (Coonawarra). In certain vintages, this wine can be excellent, but in 2008 it’s merely good. The fruit—a blend
of Cabernet Sauvignon (49%), Cabernet Franc (32%)
and Merlot (19%)—comes across as slightly pruny or
stewed, while the tannins remain firm and leathery. Old
Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
WineMag.com | 39
GRENACHE
93
Clarendon Hills 2008 Romas Grenache
(Clarendon). Full-bodied and lush in style,
with aromas of cherries and spice. On the palate, it delivers waves of fresh fruit and hints of cocoa, but also
enough complexity to hold your interest before finishing on a long, mouthwatering note. Drink now–2016. E
& J Gallo. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
92
Clarendon Hills 2008 Kangarilla Grenache (Clarendon). Depending on the vintage, any of Clarendon Hills’ Grenaches can excel. In
2008, Kangarilla offers a lovely texture somewhere between fine silt and silk. Brandied cherries give an impression of warmth, balanced by herbal nuances and
reined in by that fine-grained texture. Drink now–2015.
E & J Gallo. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
91
Chapel Hill 2008 Bush Vine Grenache
(McLaren Vale). This ripe Grenache is fullbodied and fruit-driven, but seems to have the stuffing to last at least 3–4 years. Cherry-berry flavors are
punched up by herb and spice shadings that linger on
the finish. Baum Wine Imports Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
91
Clarendon Hills 2008 Blewitt Springs Grenache (Clarendon). Featuring some dusty
tannins on the finish, this is fairly structured for Aussie
Grenache. Dried herbs and dried cherries are balanced
by hints of dusty earth on the long finish. Drink 2013–
2017. E & J Gallo. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
SHIRAZ/SYRAH
94
John Duval Wines 2008 Eligo Shiraz
(Barossa). Duval used to make Grange, so it
is no surprise that his current luxury Shiraz is so successful. The 2008 Eligo oozes with oaky sweetness—vanilla, maple syrup and brown sugar notes—but balances
that with potent cassis fruit and somehow ends on dry,
savory notes of tobacco and spice. Drink now-2018, although it could surprise and go longer. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $100
93
Penfolds 2008 RWT Shiraz (Barossa Valley). For full review see page 5.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $150
92
Grant Burge 2009 Miamba Shiraz (Barossa). This full-bodied, creamy-textured Shiraz
from the Lyndoch subregion of the Barossa starts off
with vanilla, raspberries and a dusting of confectioner’s
sugar, but turns darker and more savory with air, adding
dark berry and hickory notes. The long finish is richly
textured, yet simultaneously marked by crisp acids. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
92
Groom 2009 Shiraz (Barossa Valley).
Winemaker Daryl Groom has crafted an expansive Shiraz that’s full bodied and lushly textured but not
40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
unstructured. Flavors of blackberry and mocha weave
in and out with notes of cola, chocolate and black olive
on the softly lingering finish. Drink now–2018. Groom
Wines. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
91
Chapel Hill 2008 The Vicar Shiraz (McLaren Vale). A brutish, muscular style of Shiraz,
filled with intense notes of plum and tar and accented
by hints of coconut and vanilla. Yet for all its concentration and richness, the finish is surprisingly elegant.
Drink now–2018. Baum Wine Imports Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
91
Coriole 2008 Estate Grown Shiraz
(McLaren Vale). A perfect recreational player’s drive, right down the middle of the fairway, this
wine neatly splits the range of flavors between savory
and fruity, blending meaty, olive notes with mixed berries and vanilla. Long and lushly textured on the finish,
like velvet. Drink now–2020. The Country Vintner. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
Price: $22
abv: 14%
91
Glaetzer 2010 Bishop Shiraz (Barossa Valley). Soft and lush, this is a decadent
mouthful of blackberries and plums framed by ample
vanilla. It’s balanced, in its own open-knit, easy-drinking
style, with a sexy, drink-me-now immediacy that some
may find too obvious. Epicurean Wines. —J.C.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $36
91
Kilikanoon 2009 Killerman’s Run Shiraz
(South Australia). For full review see page 7.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
91
Rosedale Wines 2009 Cat Amongst the
Pigeons Nine Lives Shiraz (Barossa). A
superb value, this wine’s weighty presence and rich texture convey the warmth of the Barossa without ever
stepping over into overripeness. Instead, it delivers
mixed berry fruit, peppery spice and overtones of vanilla and chocolate. Drink now and over the next few
years. Sabemos Beverages. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
91
Shingleback 2009 Shiraz (McLaren Vale).
The 2009 Shirazes from South Australia have
been grading out well, and Shingleback’s is no exception, representing an excellent value. It’s dense and jammy, with rich black cherry fruit framed by oaky notes of
baking spices and cocoa. This intense, extracted wine
can stand up to hearty braises or stews. Precept Wines.
Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
91
Sidewood 2008 Reserve Syrah (Adelaide
Hills). Interestingly, Sidewood’s 2008 Reserve
Shiraz comes in considerably lower in alcohol than the
regular bottling. It features a complex interplay of herb,
spice and olive that gives it a stylistic resemblance resemblance to northern Rhône Syrahs. The tannins are
silky, the finish long and balanced. Drink now–2018.
USA Wine West. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
91
Wolf Blass 2008 Gold Label Shiraz
(Barossa). An excellent value, the 2008 Gold
Label Shiraz is a full-bodied, powerfully built wine,
filled out by cassis, chocolate and tobacco flavors. It’s
long and velvety on the finish, not just an upfront powerhouse. Drink now–2020. Treasury Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $25
90
John Duval Wines 2009 Entity Shiraz
(Barossa). Expansive, round and supple in the
mouth, this Shiraz features lush raspberry fruit, framed
by vanilla oak. There’s a tart edge to the finish, providing
a solid sense of balance to the lingering warm, chocolaty
notes. Drink now. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
90
Mitolo 2009 Jester Shiraz (McLaren
Vale). Cedar, chocolate and cherry are the
main players, with hints of alfalfa adding a modicum of
complexity. It’s full bodied, round and warm, with tannins that seem firmer than many in this price category,
making it a good steakhouse red. Drink it now and over
the next several years. Vintus LLC. —J.C.
Price: $21
abv: 14.9%
90
Oliverhill 2009 Red Silk Shiraz (McLaren
Vale). This Shiraz does a nice job of balancing
its fruit-sweet characters of blackberry and blueberry
with savory elements of herbs and green olives. It’s fullbodied, warm and creamy-textured, with a warm, chocolaty finish. Drink it now and over the next few years.
Southern Starz, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
90
Ross Estate 2009 Lights Out Shiraz
(Barossa Valley). Sure, this wine is full bodied and lush, filled with ripe raspberry fruit, but there
is also a sense of underlying structure, and some lovely
herb-spice complexities, like rhubarb, cedar, cinnamon,
vanilla and cracked pepper. Drink it over the next 2–3
years. Southern Starz, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
90
Sidewood 2008 Syrah (Adelaide Hills). A
concentrated, intense wine, filled with cherryberry fruit and more than a hint of vanilla. It’s tart and
edgy, with some firm tannins on the finish, so hold it
another 12 months and then drink it over the next 5–6
years. USA Wine West. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
Price: $18
abv: 14.5%
90
Thorn Clarke 2010 Shotfire Shiraz
(Barossa). An excellent value, the 2010 Shotfire Shiraz offers bold, punched-up cherry-berry fruit
framed by hints of vanilla, dried herbs and cracked pepper. It’s a big wine that’s reasonably creamy in texture,
with plenty of mouthcoating flavor on the finish. Drink
it over the next few years. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’
Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
89
Kilikanoon 2008 M Reserve Shiraz
(McLaren Vale). Kilikanoon’s 2008 M features bold berry fruit, lashings of vanilla and a bit of eucalyptus on the nose, followed up by rich blackberry and
vanilla flavors. It’s a full-bodied wine that nevertheless
turns crisp and edgy on the finish. Drink now–2018. Old
Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
ise, but it’s tough to say if they will all come together in
time. Banfi Vintners. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
89
Milton Park 2009 Shiraz (South Australia). This wine may lack the dramatic power
of its top-flight brethren, but it still satisfies, delivering
reasonably complex notes of cherries, rhubarb and olive carried by silky tannins and moderate alcohol. Drink
this terrific value over the next year or two. Kysela Père
et Fils. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
87
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86
Thorn Clarke 2008 William Randell Shiraz (Barossa Valley). Shows some of the
warmth of the vintage in its elevated alcohol levels and
high-toned fruit. It’s full-bodied and supple, with flavors
of brandied plums and baking spices. Drink it over the
next few years. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 16%
Price: $40
89
Yalumba 2010 Made with Organic Grapes
Shiraz (South Australia). Not the darkest,
biggest or richest Shiraz to ever come out of Australia,
this is nevertheless a delightful wine. A green peppercorn note accents red raspberry and cherry fruit, with
just a hint of vanilla in the background. Drink it over
the next year or two. Negociants USA, Inc. Editors’
Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
88
Grant Burge 2010 Shiraz (Barossa). Full
bodied and meaty, with its slightly creamy texture supporting ample spice and bright berry flavors.
This easy-drinking, moderately complex Barossa Shiraz
is probably best consumed over the next 2–3 years. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
88
Hope Estate 2009 Shiraz (Hunter Valley).
For full review see page 10. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
88
Rolling 2009 Shiraz (Central Ranges).
Despite the inexpensive price tag, this is a solid Shiraz, offering ripe black cherry fruit and touches
of tree bark and orris root. It’s medium-bodied, yet
features a velvety texture and plenty of length on the
finish. Drink now–2015. Lion Nathan USA, Inc. Best
Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
87
Block 50 2009 Shiraz (Central Ranges).
A supple, medium-bodied Shiraz ideal for nearterm consumption, the 2009 Block 50 Shiraz delivers
clean aromas and flavors of dark fruit—black cherries
and plums—and a hint of vanilla. It does turn a bit tart
on the finish. Lion Nathan USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $10
87
Château Tanunda 2008 Noble Baron Shiraz (Barossa). Already showing a bit of bricking, this is a full-bodied Shiraz that’s a bit coarse in texture, with aromas and flavors of plum and brown sugar.
The finish matches tart, zingy fruit with sweet, molasses-tinged oak. The individual components show prom-
Grant Burge 2010 Benchmark Shiraz
(South Australia). This wine starts off a bit
tarry or rubbery, but decanting allows the bright berry fruit to come forward. Raspberries are limned with
hints of mint and other herbs and framed by vanilla. It’s
medium-bodied, with a tangy finish and a crisp, satiny
texture. Drink now. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
Anthropology 2009 Pure Estate Shiraz
(Central Ranges). The oak treatment stands
out a little in this wine, imparting a dusty, wood-smoke
component as well as plenty of vanilla. The cherry fruit
is otherwise nicely presented, with ample weight and a
touch of creaminess to the texture. Lion Nathan USA,
Inc. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $11
ARGENTINA
CHARDONNAY
89
Viña Cobos 2010 Bramare Marchiori
Vineyard Chardonnay (Perdriel). A big,
warm style of Chard. The nose is soft, toasty and loaded
with butter, baked apple and vanilla aromas. Feels full,
round and creamy, while oak sits at the forefront of the
flavor profile, with toast, apple and vanilla lurking behind. Finishes sweet and smooth. 400 cases made. Paul
Hobbs Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $35
87
Alamos 2010 Chardonnay (Mendoza).
Fruity on the nose, with a friendly mix of pineapple, apple, melon and powdered sugar aromas. Feels
smooth and round but not heavy, with good acidity
and likable, simple flavors of melon, banana and apple.
There’s a light note of toast on the finish. E & J Gallo.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
87
Viña Cobos 2010 Felino Chardonnay
(Perdriel). Light oak aromas blend nicely
with white flower scents and peach notes. The palate
is round, smooth and honest, with plump flavors of vanilla, pear and melon. Oaky on the finish, then dry and
toasty. Nice for a warm-weather Chard. Paul Hobbs
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
86
Salvatore Principe 2011 Family Chardonnay (Mendoza). Peach and apple aromas
come with a dose of minerality and a kiss of oak. Feels
juicy and fruity, with citric acids pushing bright peach,
nectarine and apple flavors. Cleansing on the finish,
with mild bitterness. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
86
San Felipe 2010 Oak Cask Chardonnay
(Mendoza). For full review see page 11. Best
Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
85
Fabre Montmayou 2010 Phebus Reserva
Chardonnay (Mendoza). Oddly perfumed
and flowery smelling, with peach and orange notes.
Feels jumpy and unfocused, with sweet, almost candied
flavors of melon and pineapple. Creamy oak rises up on
the finish, where it matches up against stone fruit flavors. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
84
Portillo 2011 Estate Bottled Chardonnay
(Uco Valley). White peach and papaya aromas
are sweet and tropical, while saline notes play second
fiddle. Feels tangy, juicy and lean, with dilute lemon
and green banana flavors. Wet and watery on the finish.
Palm Bay International. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
84
Terrazas de Los Andes 2010 Altos del
Plata Chardonnay (Mendoza). Chunky
and murky on the nose, with melon and papaya aromas. Feels round but light in the center, with vanilla,
pear and melon flavors. Fleshy and simple on the finish.
Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
83
Amadores 2010 Chardonnay (Mendoza).
Stalky aromas of burnt hay blend with white
fruit scents. Bland apple and stalky flavors are balanced
by decent acidity, then finishes with burnt, oily accents.
Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $13
83
Tierra de Antes 2010 Chardonnay (Mendoza). Mild lemon and minerally aromas are
about as expressive as it gets, although you get some apple and melon flavors. Finishes with more apple flavor,
a fleshy feel and not much follow through. Broadbent
Selections, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
MOSCATO
85
Casa de Campo 2011 Moscato (Mendoza). Peach, scented candle wax and matchstick
make for a solid bouquet. Feels good, maybe a touch
cloying, but not too much. Flavors of crystallized mango
and pineapple mix with fresh melon, and the finish is
clean. About all you could hope for from an $8 Argentine Moscato. Indigo Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S.
Price: $8
abv: 10.5%
83
Árido 2011 Sustainably Farmed Moscato
(Mendoza). Foamy in the Asti style, with metallic, earthy aromas of peach and lychee. Feels pretty
good, with sweet, basic lychee and honeydew flavors.
The finish is simply a carry over from the palate: it’s
sweet and melony in flavor. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 7.6%
Price: $10
82
Conquista 2011 Moscato (Mendoza).
Neutral smelling except for pithy white fruit
aromas. Feels sticky but not cloying, with lychee flavors that turn bitter towards the end. Short on the finish, with little activity or lasting flavor. Prestige Wine
Group. —M.S.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $9
WineMag.com | 41
TORRONTÉS
SPARKLING WINES
88
Recuerdo 2011 Torrontés (La Rioja). Vanilla cookies, peach and nectarine aromas work
the opening. In the mouth, there’s a nice and even flow
of acidity and pulpy tropical fruits. Flavors of tangerine, melon and lychee are authentic and well balanced,
while the finish is musky, fresh and confirms the wine’s
high quality. Blackbird Vineyards. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
85
87
Colomé 2011 Torrontés (Calchaqui Valley). Perfectly good, but seemingly more simple and oily than in the past. Maybe that’s just perception, but the perception is that this is a mild, tropically
influenced wine with a fleshy body and mild aromas and
flavors of lychee, green melon and lime. Finishes short
and pithy. Hess Collection. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
84
85
80
Caligiore 2011 Grazioso Made with Organically Grown Grapes Torrontés (Mendoza). Mild and powdery smelling, with inviting tropical undertones. The palate mixes flesh with freshness,
and the flavors of lychee, green melon and white pepper
are straight from the textbook. Finishes mildly bitter,
which is natural for Mendoza Torrontés. Marquee Selections. Best Buy. —M.S.
Price: $10
abv: 13%
85
Fabre Montmayou 2011 Phebus Torrontés (Mendoza). Stalky and strained on the
nose, with a burnt-hay aroma to go with more typical
tropical fruit and lychee scents. Citrusy and basic, with
oily flavors of peach and apple. Chunky on the back end,
with heat on the finish W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
84
Espuela del Gaucho 2011 Gaucho Spur
Torrontés (Mendoza). Typically fragrant,
with floral aromas vying with mildly green notes of
lime and lychee. Feels tangy and downright citric, with
lemon, orange, lime and green apple flavors. Cleansing
and acidic on the finish, with lemony snap. Winery Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
WHITE BLENDS
86
Alfredo Roca 2011 Roca Chenin BlancChardonnay (San Rafael). Basic apple and
straw aromas are not that intense but are, at the very
least, open and clean. Feels easygoing and nice, with
acidity giving it a lift. Tastes dry, with white pepper dust
mixed with tropical fruit flavors. Turns more stalky and
waxy on the finish. Hand Picked Selections. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
85
Aconga 2011 Chenin Blanc-Chardonnay
(Mendoza). Floral and citrusy smelling, with
a lightness of being. Feels equally lean and light in the
mouth, with fresh, floral flavors revolving around lychee and lime. Tropical and basic on the finish, with an
easygoing way about it. Winery Exchange. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
Hom NV Extra Brut (Mendoza). A little
sweet on the nose, with powdered sugar, vanilla and white fruit aromas. Feels foamy but just fresh
enough, with apple, melon and controlled stalky flavors.
Finishes with dry apple notes. Good for Argentine sparkling; 70% Chardonnay and 30% Chenin Blanc. Mistica
Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 12.3%
Price: $15
Coiron 2011 Extra Brut Chardonnay
(Mendoza). Smells clean and mild, with peach
and apple aromas. Rather foamy and rough feeling, with
tangy flavors of stone fruits, green apple and pineapple.
Light, juicy and fruity on the finish, but basic. Made
from 100% Chardonnay using the Charmat method.
Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
Hom NV Rosé Malbec (Mendoza). Oxidized aromas are not inviting. After the doughy,
yeasty opening, the palate deals oxidized flavors of bitter
and sweet red plum. Bitter on the finish; barely worth a
look. Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S.
Price: $17
abv: 12.6%
ROSÉS
86
Pulenta Estate 2011 La Flor Malbec Rosé
(Mendoza). Fresh and a little confected-smelling, then more citrusy and snappy in the mouth, with
pink grapefruit and citrusy flavors that make your lips
pucker and your palate come alive. Crisp, zesty and well
done for Argentine rosé. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
82
Zorzal 2010 Malbec Rosé (Tupungato).
Pasty and powdery smelling, with a flat, dullfeeling palate. Tastes sweet, fleshy and candied in
front of a sugary finish with cotton candy flavors. Too
sweet and simple to be taken more seriously. Delectatio
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
80
Piattelli 2010 Premium Rosé of Malbec
(Luján de Cuyo). Cloudy to the eye, with
strained aromas of sauerkraut and barnyard animal.
Feels heavy and tastes rustic, with burnt, stalky, anonymous flavors. Shows bitterness and stalky flavors on the
finish. Vinocopia. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
88
Santa Julia 2011 + Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). For full review see page 11. Best
Buy.
abv: 13%
88
Price: $10
Viña Cobos 2010 Felino Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Sweet oak on the nose
results in creamy, chocolaty aromas, along with herbal
notes, plum and berry. Feels tight but expansive, with
solid tannins, bright acids and solid flavors of herbs, ber-
ry fruit, cassis, toast and chocolate. Keeps it together on
the finish. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
87
Finca Decero 2009 Remolinos Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Agrelo). Standard
cherry and plum aromas create a straightforward bouquet. The feel is hot and choppy, but there’s enough
body and balance for it to weigh in properly. Tastes of
sweet cassis, kirsch and creamy chocolate, with an oaky
finish containing cocoa notes. Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
87
Lamadrid 2010 Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Agrelo). Bright berry aromas are comported and good. Feels driving and forward, because of its bold acidity and choppy tannins,
but tastes nice and dark, with blackberry and cassis flavors. There’s a controlled burn to the finish, and overall
the wine seems healthy. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $18
87
Riglos 2009 Gran Cabernet Sauvignon
(Tupungato). Fiery smelling at first, with aromas of mint, raw oak, coconut and baked berry fruits.
Feels rich almost to the point of syrupy, with spicy, lightly green flavors infiltrating the core of cassis and berry.
Finishes herbal and stalky, with a lingering green flavor.
Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $32
87
Santa Julia 2011 Organica Made With Organic Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Pure and inviting, with a touch of char and minerality to go with basic plum and berry aromas. Feels
good and grabby, with flavors of sweet blackberry, cassis, butter and molasses. Creamy, jammy and uncomplicated on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
86
Benegas 2009 Libertad Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Heavy and
brooding, which makes sense seeing that it weighs in at
15% abv. So while it’s not exactly ringing with freshness
and agility, it scores points for its full-bodied black plum
and blackberry flavors, and the oak is well applied. A bit
warm and baked, but still good. Vias Imports. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $14
86
Maipe 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). A little fiery and forced on the nose, but
its wild berry and charred aromas it’s solid. Feels full
and stacked, with plum, cassis, pepper and a mild green
element. Smooth in feel on the finish, but herbal tasting. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
85
Tango Reàl 2008 Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (San Rafael). It opens with
raisin and stewed aromas, so its freshness is questionable. In the mouth, it’s actually round, subtle and fairly
well structured, with oaky vanilla accenting lightly herbal berry and cassis flavors. Herbal as well on the finish,
with a lasting flavor of coffee. Tango LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
85
Tapiz 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Opens with a pinch of green as well
as more standard cassis and berry aromas. Borderline
sheer in the mouth, with pointed acidity and raspberry
and plum flavors. Feels slightly abrasive, but on the plus
side it’s fresh and juicy. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $15
84
Graffigna 2008 Grand Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (San Juan). Every kind of pepper, from green to red to jalapeño, is present on the
nose, along with red plum and spice aromas. Feels tight
and zesty, with Italian-leaning flavors of tomato, oregano and basil along with cassis and strawberry. Crisp
and agile on the finish, but tastes green. Pernod Ricard.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
84
Lexicon 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Opens with an odd whiff of masa or
cornmeal along with herbal berry aromas. Feels angular and narrowing, with herbal plum and dark berry flavors. Turns greener with time, ultimately finishing with
brown sugar sweetness and green pepper notes. Good
but herbal. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.
Price: $13
abv: 14%
84
Sur de los Andes 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Roasted red berry and
plum aromas carry the bouquet to a tannic, grabby palate with red fruit flavors and herbal shadings. Feels better on the finish, with tangy red fruit and nothing offensive. Winery Direct. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $12
83
Arge & Tina 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(San Juan). Tomato and herbal aromas tell
you most of what you need to know about this bargainpriced Cab. It’s somewhat green and sweet, with a raw
feel and tannic bite. Tastes of tomato and herbal red
plum. Feels light on the finish. IBESC Wine Distributor. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $8
83
Benegas 2008 Luna Benegas Cabernet
Sauvignon (Mendoza). Citric smelling, with
clipped aromas of berry fruits. Choppy tannins, heat
and raisiny, sweet, cooked berry flavors and stemmy
notes finish herbal tasting but full in feel. Vias Imports.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
83
Familia Marguery 2010 Casa Marguery
Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Murky
smelling, with nondescript berry aromas. Ultratannic
and hard in the mouth, much like chewing nails. Meanwhile, the flavors run herbal and earthy, with dark fruit
carrying things to a hard, tannic finish. Southern Wine
Group. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
83
Michel Torino 2010 Don David Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Calchaqui Valley).
Cloudy to the eye, with overly green aromas of tomato and bell pepper, along with spice and dried cherry.
Feels hot and acidic, with a clipped, cutting palate full
of berry flavors, herbs and green pepper. Fresh but
herbal on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.
—M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $16
90
83
89
Tomero 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Burnt and leafy on the nose, with murky,
earthy aromas. Feels gritty but lively, with sweet, herbal
berry fruit in front of a somewhat dilute and dull finish.
A modest, herbal Cab that does the job. San Francisco
Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $15
82
Andeluna 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Tupungato). Green smelling. Feels thick, grabby
and stewed, with herbal, saucy flavors of tomato and red
berry. That same sauciness defines the herbal finish. San
Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $11
82
Mil Piedras 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). Smells like wet clay with an accent of floral black fruit. In the mouth, it’s edgy and
sharp, with rock-hard tannins that clamp down. Tastes
lactic but not creamy, with sharp red-fruit flavors and a
hard finish. Cannon Wines Limited. —M.S.
Price: $11
abv: 13.5%
MALBEC
92
Viña Cobos 2009 Cobos Marchiori Vineyard Malbec (Perdriel). Hot and fiery at first,
but then it tames itself while revealing jammy blackberry and roasted plum aromas. Feels extracted and full,
with a mix of baked berry, herb and peppery flavors that
run deep and delicious. Spicy and chocolaty on the oaky
finish, with smooth tannins, sweetness and oaky length.
Drink now through 2014. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $175
91
Viña Cobos 2009 Bramare Marchiori
Vineyard Malbec (Perdriel). Similar in style
to the higher-priced Cobos wine from the same vineyard. Bramare delivers cassis, plum and berry aromas
rolled into a pleasant and familiar whole. Feels rich but
refined, with meaty flavors that hit on leather, berry,
black plum and chocolate. Spicy and chocolaty on the
finish. Drink now through 2014. Paul Hobbs Wines.
—M.S.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $80
90
Finca Flichman 2008 Parcela 26 Limited Edition Malbec (Mendoza). After picking yourself up off the floor having digested the price,
the wine is excellent but not otherwordly. Sweet, dense
and calm on the nose, with alluring black fruit and raisin
aromas. Feels hefty and gritty, with rooty, sweet flavors
of brown sugar and baked blackberry. Finishes round,
big and smooth, with generally good balance. 120 cases
made; drink now through 2014. Evaton, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $167
90
Salentein 2010 Reserve Malbec (Uco Valley). For full review see page 8.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
Tapiz 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). For full review see page 10. Best Buy.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $15
Angulo Innocenti 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Deep purple in color, with a dense, compact bouquet showing ripe blackberry, density and heat.
Full-force on the palate, with drying tannins along with
prune, blackberry, licorice and peppery flavors. Serious
and tannic, with richness, extract and power. Vineyard
Brands. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
89
Maipe 2010 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza).
Dense and dark, with plum, prune, blackberry
and earth aromas. Feels thick, meaty and composed,
with blackberry and dark plum flavors leading the
charge. Density and balance are the wine’s attributes;
it’s full, mildly tannic and generous but not overdone or
overoaked. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
89
Viña Cobos 2009 Bramare Rebon Vineyard Malbec (Perdriel). Packed and concentrated, with blueberry, blackberry, bramble and pastry aromas. Initially, it’s jumbled and out of joint, with
jumpy acids and heavy flavors of blackberry, grilled
meat and herbs, while on the finish, the fruit fades
quickly, leaving weight, resin and vanilla. Paul Hobbs
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $55
89
Zuccardi 2010 Q Malbec (Mendoza).
Opens with cassis, black cherry, blackberry and
dusty aromas that suggest leather. Feels healthy, with
blazing acidity propelling dark fruit, toast and vanilla
flavors. Juicy on the finish due to semisharp acids, with
length and liveliness. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
88
Altocedro 2010 Reserva Malbec (La Consulta). Oak is front and center on the bouquet,
and with that come accents of dried cheese and sawdust.
Feels saturated, layered and tannic in the mouth, with
roasted berry, black plum, herb and spice flavors. Feels
and tastes a touch resiny on the finish, more evidence of
the wine’s barrel influence. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $29
88
Altocedro 2009 Gran Reserva Malbec (La
Consulta). A very oaky style of Malbec. The
bouquet is full of cough drop, milk chocolate and mint,
while the palate feels solid and beefy, but resiny. Flavors
of berry fruits are softened and sweetened by oak and
chocolate, while the finish is woody and tannic. Vino
Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
88
Lamadrid 2009 Single Vineyard Reserva Malbec (Agrelo). Opens with hard-baked
berry aromas that turn briary and herbal with airing. Smooth tannins and meaty blackberry flavors are
matched by barrel-driven vanilla and spice. Oaky and
minty on the finish, with spunk and length. Vino Del
Sol. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
WineMag.com | 43
88
Lexicon 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Jammy
and generous smelling, with pastry and solid black-fruit aromas. Feels good and balanced for a
young Malbec, with flavors of sweet plum, blackberry
and a medicinal character. Plump and fruity on the finish, and steady wire to wire. Kysela Père et Fils. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
87
Altocedro 2011 Año Cero Malbec (La
Consulta). Concentrated aromas of blackberry
come with leather and dried-cheese scents. The palate
is full in depth and solid in feel, with flavors of creamy
oak, medicinality and blackberry. Feels rich, grabby and
tastes resiny on the finish, but there’s enough solid black
fruit to override the oak. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $19
87
88
Mi Terruño 2008 Mayacaba Malbec
(Mendoza). A big, dark, extracted Malbec
with murky lead aromas of Graham cracker and sweet
blueberry. The palate is jammy and chunky, with dark,
earthy flavors of prune, blackberry and raisin. Finishes a
bit pruny, but there’s enough acidity to maintain a sense
of balance. Drink now. Copa Fina Imports CA. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
87
Arge & Tina 2009 Malbec (San Juan).
Honest plum and berry aromas get it going,
followed by a fresh, comfortable palate with raspberry
and plum flavors and nonpushy tannins. Feels entirely clean, with a pleasant red-fruit aftertaste. Everyday
Malbec that gets it right. IBESC Wine Distributor. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $8
87
88
87
86
Nice 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). Floral red
fruit aromas carry a hint of minerality and garrigue. The palate is lively, with good overall balance.
Tastes of ripe red plum, raspberry and vanilla, while the
finish is light in weight and quick, but satisfying. Nice
Winery. —M.S.
Price: $30
abv: 13.5%
88
Nuna 2010 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza).
Bright, vivid and sizzling on the nose, then zesty,
tight and acidic in the mouth, with high-toned plum,
berry and red currant flavors offset by a touch of milk
chocolate. Long on the finish, but not that nuanced or
complex. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
88
Septima 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Warm,
slightly leathery and earthy on the nose, with a
hint of cheese. Feels full, nice and solid, with decent
depth. Flavors of black fruits and pastry are friendly,
while the finish is pleasant. Delivers all it can for the
price. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
88
Solsticio 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). A big
wine that handles its 15.3% abv. Smells of pastry, earth and soft berry fruit. Feels round but reticent,
with no fire or heat but plenty of blackberry, molasses
and coffee. Mellow, toasty and blackened on the finish, with an earthy feel and a baked aftertaste. Solsticio
LLC. —M.S.
Price: $15
abv: 15.3%
88
Tango Reàl 2008 Gran Reserva Malbec
(San Rafael). Plum and berry aromas are
straightforward, but also clean and nice. The palate on
this wine from San Rafael is focused and orderly, with
flavors of red fruits, spice and mild woody notes. Long
lasting on the finish, with freshness and just a modicum
of tannic bite. Tango LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
88
Viña Cobos 2010 Felino Malbec (Mendoza). Fiery, foxy and leathery on the bouquet, with a hint of latex in addition to ripe blackberry
aromas. Feels round and fresh, with a complete mix of
plum, berry and currant flavors. Finishes tight and legit,
with good length and feel. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
Colomé 2008 Reserva Malbec (Calchaqui Valley). Smells cheesy and leathery, with
herbal notes. Feels condensed and flat, as if it’s collapsing on itself. Flavors of baked berry and prune are dark
and typical of very ripe Malbec, while the finish is warm
but basic in feel and flavor. Bullish, sweet and heavy.
Not Colomé’s best effort, especially given the price.
Hess Collection. —M.S.
Price: $90
abv: 15.9%
87
Finca Sophenia 2010 Altosur Malbec
(Tupungato). Fresh, clean and pure, with
standard dark berry aromas. Feels round, creamy and
chewy, while the flavors tend towards black fruits and no
shortage of oak. Tastes toasty and feels resiny on the finish, with vanilla and berry syrup filling up the aftertaste.
The Country Vintner. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
87
Finca Sophenia 2010 Reserve Malbec
(Tupungato). Forceful from the opening,
with floral notes, dark oak, shoe polish and char vying
with black fruit aromas. Feels both lush and tough, with
hard tannins poking through. Tastes of black fruits, cola
and heavily toasted oak. Bittersweet on the finish; lusty
and black but neither elegant nor light on its feet. The
Country Vintner. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
87
Lamadrid 2010 Single Vineyard Malbec
(Agrelo). Dense and inky on the bouquet, with
blueberry as the core fruit aroma and some grass or alfalfa around the edges. Feels blocky and tannic, with
sweet, roasted flavors of black fruits that come with a
peppery aftertaste. Full on the finish, with coconut and
oaky accents. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
87
Maipe 2011 Andean Culture Malbec
(Mendoza). Opens with berry fruit aromas,
density and slightly medicinal notes. Feels bright and
lively, with ample acidity pushing toasty, lightly herbal
flavors of blackberry and plum. Shows mild spice, licorice and barrel notes on the finish, along with herbal
notes. Seems like a very good everyday or value-driven
choice. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
Nomade 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). Dry
and unusual smelling, with baking spice, cinnamon and exotic notes. Not your normal black-fruited
bruiser; this wine spreads out in the mouth, with sweet
flavors of nutmeg along with dry plum and berry fruit.
Lively and warm on the finish, with zest and an herbal
element. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $18
Terrazas de Los Andes 2009 Reserva
Malbec (Mendoza). Black fruit aromas feature a touch of licorice. Feels lively and alert, with edgy
acids and juicy, forward flavors of plum and wild berry.
Toasty, integrated and spicy on the finish, with pinches of green and black pepper. Moët Hennessy USA.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
Alberti 154 2010 Malbec (Mendoza).
Black fruit aromas and rubber on the nose.
Feels good in the mouth, with proper weight and balance. Tastes ripe and fairly sweet; blackberry and dark
plum flavors turn peppery with time. Easy to drink Malbec. Southern Wine Group. —M.S.
Price: $13
abv: 14%
86
Bodega Poesia 2010 Malbec (Mendoza).
Earthy and leathery on the bouquet, with a
cooked, charred element. Feels drawing but solid, with
choppy tannins and flavors of baked berries, herbs and
charred oak. Finishes warm and meaty, with an herbal
note. Bob Bofman Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
86
Familia Cassone 2010 La Florencia Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). Char and hickory override fruit on the bouquet, while the palate is full, round
and falls into form with time in the glass. Tastes of forward oak and spice along with berry and plum fruit.
Toasty and warm on the finish, but oaky and resiny. Bedford International. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
86
Pampano 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). Fruity
and friendly on the nose, with composure and
solid aromas. Feels both plump and dry, with toasty
black-fruit flavors accented by peppery spice that turns
slightly bitter on the finish. Good and dark overall, with
limited follow-through on the finish. Five Gold Hands.
Best Buy. —M.S.
Price: $10
abv: 13.5%
86
Rio Perdido 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Exotic and unusual for value-priced Malbec, with
aromas of blueberry and Middle Eastern spice. Feels
chunky yet juicy, with good acidity highlighting lightly
herbal flavors of plum and tomato. Meaty, round and
solid on the finish, with saucy spiciness. Southern Starz,
Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
86
Ruca Malen 2009 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Smells sort of furry and earthy initially,
with notes of graphite and woodspice. Feels narrow and
grabby, with pointed acididty framing red plum, cher-
ry and lightly oaky, minty flavors. Fits the definition of
good but regular Malbec. Opici Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $18
86
Salentein 2010 Killka Collection Malbec
(Uco Valley). On the nose, there’s an early
whiff of nail polish that resolves itself in jammy black
fruit aromas. Good on the palate, with just enough acidic grab in front of a full blast of berry flavors and an aftershock of chocolate. Finishes grapy. Palm Bay International. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
86
Sur de los Andes 2009 Reserva Malbec
(Mendoza). Opens with aromas of black cherry and waves of resiny oak. Has good body and grabby
barrel tannins along with a palate that deals dark berry
flavor and even more oakiness. Tastes resiny and saucy
on the finish; cleans up as it airs. Winery Direct. —M.S.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $15
86
Zolo 2008 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza).
Inky and superconcentrated on the bouquet,
with grapey fruit notes and density to spare. Feels grabby and angular, with some astringency to the tannins
and huge flavors of black plum, blackberry and iodine.
Thick and sticky on the finish; ripe to the max. Vino Del
Sol. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
85
Casa de Campo 2011 Malbec (Mendoza).
Stalky smelling at first but good on the nose
thanks to a solid berry core and leathery accents. Feels
fresh and pinched, with medicinal flavors matched by
equal amounts of red fruit and oak. Finishes clean but
short, with decent weight. Indigo Wine Group. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $8
85
Cueva de las Manos 2010 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Granular and punchy upfront, with heat and animal fur aromas on the nose. Settles with airing, revealing a heavy but solid palate with
plenty of oak and candied red-fruit flavors. Falls off on
the finish, with mint, resin and herbal notes. Kysela
Père et Fils. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
85
Doña Silvina 2008 Malbec (Mendoza).
Jammy and dusty smelling, with black fruit
notes, a touch of plastic and mild scratchiness. Feels
tight and grating, with red-fruit flavors that are snappy
and tempered by sweet oak notes. Finishes scratchy and
tannic, with berry, pepper and licorice flavors. Mistica
Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
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Espuela del Gaucho 2010 Limited Edition
Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Slightly herbal
plum and berry aromas come with a pinch of spice and
meatiness. Feels medium-bodied and crisp, with juicy
red-fruit flavors of plum, tomato and raspberry. Dries
out on the finish, where it becomes more herbal and
roasted. Winery Exchange. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Tamarí 2010 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza).
Crusty, rubbery aromas smell a bit burnt, while
leather and berry aromas, rest below the surface. The
palate is full, edgy and a little tangy, with red plum, herb
and tomato flavors. Mild and saucy tasting on the finish.
Terlato Wines International. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
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Tierra Prometida 2008 Clasico Malbec
(Mendoza). Opens with minerally, almost metallic aromas, along with rubber and berry mixed in.
Feels fresh and ready, with plum, berry and chocolaty
flavors. Finishes with a smooth feel, but maybe it could
use a bit more cut and tannic structure. A wine that falls
squarely in the middle zone. Frontier Wine Imports.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
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Cas’Almare 2009 Malbec (Mendoza).
Minty on the nose, with hints of cured meat,
burnt field and spice. Feels fresh, with medicinal plum
flavors and oak taking over after the fruit falls off. Finishes lightly spicy and drying. More balanced and less
oaky than the winery’s ’09 reserva. Cas’Almare Wines.
—M.S.
Price: $15
abv: 14.5%
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TintoNegro 2010 Co-Ferment Malbec
(Mendoza). Rubbery on first take, with sweet
chocolate and carob aromas. Feels pretty thick, with a
creamy lead into an herbal-tasting palate that’s crowded
with oak and milk chocolate flavors. Turns resiny on the
finish. Vineyard Brands. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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TintoNegro 2010 Uco Valley Reserve
Malbec (Mendoza). Foxy and jumpy on the
nose, with candied red-berry and cherry aromas. Feels
resiny, but there’s enough acid to keep it moving forward. Flavors of plum and berry come with a lot of oak
and barrel influence. Finishes resiny, with hints of vanilla and a burnt quality. Vineyard Brands. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
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Trapiche 2010 Zaphy Malbec (Argentina).
Full of red-fruit aromas, particularly plum and
cherry. Feels raw, with wild berry, ample oak and a lot
of acid-based tang to the palate. Lightly toasty, with a
mild cherry flavor to the finish. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Laberinto 2009 Malbec (Mendoza).
Strange smelling, with aromas of exotic spices,
blueberry and some other notes that don’t come across
that well. Feels solid and chunky, with herbal, sweet flavors that culminate in a dry, rubbery, herbal-tasting finish. A.W. Direct. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Manos Negras 2010 Malbec (Mendoza).
Smells different than most, with blueberry,
carob and exotic sandalwood. Takes a dive on the palate, where it’s sweet, syrupy and flat, almost like prune
juice. Along those lines, it tastes pruny, with chocolate
on the finish. Struggles to achieve balance. Vino Del
Sol. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Ruca Malen 2010 Yauquén Malbec (Mendoza). Smells unruly, with animal notes, heavy
char, rubber and mulchy earth. Gets better with airing,
but seems thick on the palate, with stewed berry and
mild green notes. Herbal, roasted and sort of weedy
on the finish. Has been better in the past. Opici Wines.
—M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $12
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Viñas de Vila 2008 Gran Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). The grapy nose announces
a heavy, flat type of Malbec with intense color but not
much in the way of acidic lift or excitement. Feels gummy, with jammy, sweet flavors of blueberry and clove.
Stays sweet and sticky on the finish. Puerto Viejo Wines.
—M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
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Caligiore 2009 Family Vineyards Organic
Legacy Old Vines Single Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza). Foxy cherry and cough drop aromas
are not convincing. Feels astringent and tastes tart, with
sharp but candied cherry, faux oak and milk chocolate
flavors. Blends sour notes with sweet oak, all to little
avail. Marquee Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $25
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Camino del Inca 2011 Malbec (Cafayate).
The bouquet is demanding, with burnt tire rubber, horse, heavy char and muddled black-fruit aromas.
Feels closed and tastes buttery and burnt, with barrel
char and resin sitting heavily atop herbal berry flavors. A
heavily made-up wine. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Michel Torino 2010 Don David Reserve
Malbec (Calchaqui Valley). Burnt and
roasted up front, with a leathery nose that doesn’t convey freshness. Feels choppy and acidic, with herbal,
semitart flavors of burnt berry fruit. Minty and green
on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $16
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Antigua Bodega 2009 Malbec (San
Juan). Smells strongly of corn, stalky fruit,
herbs and grass. Mouthfeel is not a problem, although
it’s a little sticky on the palate. Tastes heavily herbal and
green, with an oaky covering. Short, woody and herbal
on the finish. Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
BONARDA
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Lamadrid 2009 Single Vineyard Reserva
Bonarda (Agrelo). Big blackberry aromas
show very little rusticity. Feels full but smooth and balanced, with a nice mix of wild berry, spice and fine herb
flavors. Mellow and not pushy on the finish. Really good
for Bonarda. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
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Maipe 2010 Reserve Old Vine Bonarda
(Mendoza). Clean, pure and uncomplicated on the nose, showing depth and clarity. Smells and
tastes much like a good Malbec or Cabernet might; it’s
sweet and fruity, with black cherry, pastry, baking spices
and a certain rubbery quality that seems to come with
WineMag.com | 45
Bonarda. On the money for this variety. Kysela Père et
Fils. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
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Sur de los Andes 2010 Bonarda (Mendoza). Exotic on the nose, with aromas of raspberry, plum and blueberry. Shows good intensity on the palate, with a solid feel and fresh flavors of blackberry and
dark plum. Fresh but smooth on the finish; very good in
every way. Winery Direct. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $12
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Alma del Sur 2010 Colección Bonarda
(Mendoza). Interesting aromas of graham
cracker, pastry, blackberry, dark cherry and tomato all
work well together. The palate is full and easy, with
some weight to it along with flavors of black plum and
berry. Not exuberant on the finish; it ends in mellow,
lightly medicinal fashion. Martin Scott Wines. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: NA
Price: $10
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Las Perdices 2009 Reserva Bonarda (Luján de Cuyo). Concentrated and dark upfront,
with black fruit, coffee, chocolate and cheese aromas.
Full and extracted in the mouth, as flavors of charred
wood, blackberry and black pepper take over. Turns hot
and darker on the finish, where bitter chocolate and
peppercorn flavors rise up. Matadorvino LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Maipe 2011 Andean Culture Bonarda
(Mendoza). Red berry, sweet cherry and ripe
plum aromas come with a touch of leather. The palate
feels a bit sharp and acidic, with tangy, juicy flavors of
plum and wild berry as well as some stalkiness. Cleansing and long on the finish thanks to high acidity. Kysela
Père et Fils. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
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Caligiore 2010 Reserve Bonarda (Mendoza). A medicinal quality comes at you right
away, followed by chocolate-coated cherry, creamy oak
and a distant note of paint or chemical. Feels round and
voluminous, with minty, rubbery flavors of oaky, berry
and chocolate. Finishes dry and oaky, with a buttery aftertaste. Marquee Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
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Mi Terruño 2009 Reserve Bonarda (Mendoza). Rubber, plastic and black fruit aromas.
Feels fat and buttery, but with a streak of acidity that
gives it pulse. Flavors of red berry come with oaky support, and the finish is sweet, oaky and warm. Copa Fina
Imports CA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
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Tierra Prometida 2008 Clasico Bonarda
(Mendoza). Plum, red berry and wild herb
aromas combine to create a briary whole. As it airs, the
nose turns lemony and hard, while the mouthfeel is
tight and limited, with herbal, saucy, red berry flavors.
Tomato and basil notes appear on the finish. Frontier
Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $18
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Viñas de Vila 2009 Reserva Bonarda
(Mendoza). Smells grassy, jumpy and foxy,
46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011
and while it sports a decent feel on the palate, it’s herbal
and tomatoey in terms of flavor, with a vegetal undertone. Green and oaky on the finish. Puerto Viejo Wines.
—M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
RED BLENDS
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Finca Flichman 2008 Dedicado (Mendoza). For full review see page 6.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
92
Vistalba 2008 Corte A (Mendoza). Beefy
black-fruit aromas are inviting for their accents
of licorice, coconut and crushed minerals. Feels lush,
layered and intense, the perfect framework for lusty
blackberry, toast, mineral and espresso flavors. Long,
warm and dense on the finish. Drink now through 2016;
made from Malbec, Bonarda and Cab Sauvignon. San
Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
90
Vistalba 2008 Corte B (Mendoza). Approachable, high in quality and made from a
mix of Malbec, Cabernet and Bonarda. Smells of lead
pencil, blackberry and dark plum. Feels friendly and
smooth, with lightly buttered oak leading licorice, black
pepper, chocolate and roasted berry flavors. Offers a
lot of good things for the price. Drink now–2015. San
Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $25
89
O. Fournier 2008 B Crux (Uco Valley).
Opens with horsey, leathery aromas that are
funky and wild, but are surrounded by solid berry-fruit
scents. Picks up steam on the palate, which is easygoing,
solidly built and just firm enough. Tastes of blackberry, cola, spice and chocolate, then finishes smooth and
creamy. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $25
85
Cicchitti 2008 Blend Edición Limitada
(Mendoza). An odd blend of Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and Merlot that starts out with aromas of bramble, brick dust and baked berries. Feels tannic and grabby initially, before spreading out wide and flat. Tastes
stewy and herbal, with chocolate and spice notes. Probably strained and strange for the average consumer. 600
cases made. The Artisan Collection. —M.S.
Price: $22
abv: 14%
CALIFORNIA
CHARDONNAY
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Dutton Estate 2010 Dutton Palms Vineyard Dutton Ranch Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). The vineyard is in the coolest part of
the Green Valley of the Russian River Valley. The wine,
which is totally dry, is marked by brilliant acidity and
long hangtime flavors of oranges, Meyer lemons and
kiwi fruit, enriched by barrel fermentation and aging.
—S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $40
94
Kazmer & Blaise 2009 Boon Fly’s Hill
Chardonnay (Carneros). This is one of the
most Chablis-style Chardonnays on the market. It’s
bone dry, and has a steely, minerally elegance made
complex with layers of pineapples and limes, and even
a honeysuckle richness. The oak, interestingly, comes
from Hungary. A terrific wine, far from the overoaked,
buttered popcorn style so popular now. Production was
only 227 cases. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $50
93
Dutton Estate 2010 Kyndall’s Reserve
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This
Chardonnay was blended from several vineyards in
Dutton’s extensive portfolio. It’s not only a great example of the art of blending, it’s a fine wine in itself,
showing brisk acidity and dryness, with rich, complex
orange, Meyer lemon, kiwi fruit, honeysuckle and buttered toast flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $37
93
Marimar Estate 2010 Acero Don Miguel
Vineyard Unoaked Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). For full review see page 4. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $29
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Hunnicutt 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Good acidity in this Chardonnay provides
a brisk balance to the ripe pineapple, passion fruit, pear
and spice flavors. Made in the modern style, it has a
minerality that lifts it and provides interest. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
92
Marimar Estate 2009 La Masía Don
Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). For full review see page 6.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $35
90
Flora Springs 2010 Barrel Fermented
Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review
see page 7.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
90
Melville 2010 Clone 76 Inox Chardonnay
(Sta. Rita Hills). Very acidic, giving the ripe
tropical fruit and green pea flavors an almost sparkling
spritziness. But very rich and flamboyant and complex.
This wine was tasted at just about a year of age, and
should calm down by summer 2012. —S.H.
Price: $36
abv: 14.5%
90
Melville 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Sta.
Rita Hills). Acidity and ripe fruit mark this
Chardonnay, which is lovely to drink now. Don’t chill it
too much, to allow the orange, pineapple and passionfruit flavors to express their nuances. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $26
90
Robert Young 2009 Estate Chardonnay
(Alexander Valley). Sure is easy to like this
Chardonnay, with its rich flavors of honey, pineapples,
peaches, crême brulée, vanilla and cinnamon spice. It
seems almost sweet, but zesty acidity and minerality
pull it back into dryness and elegance. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $42
90
Sarah’s Vineyard 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). This dry, acidic, minerally Chardonnay brings Burgundy to mind. It has a lot
going for it, but is rather tight and angular despite a rich
vein of pineapple and lemon drop. Distinguished in its
way, it’s a fine wine, at a great price. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
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Sarah’s Vineyard 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Santa Clara Valley). Oak dominates
this Chardonnay in its buttered toast, caramel and butterscotch flavors. Buried under that are pleasantly ripe
pineapples and lemons. The winery suggests it will age
through 2020, but that seems doubtful. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $30
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Stonegate 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review see page 8. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
Summerland 2010 Wolff Vineyard Chardonnay (Edna Valley). Acidity is the best
thing about this Chardonnay. Without it, the tangerine,
apricot and lime flavors, accented by sweet oaky vanilla,
would make it a mere fruit bomb. Tartness wakes it all
up and makes the finish clean and pure. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $34
89
Bennett Lane 2008 Reserve Sangiacomo
Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros). Made
in the popular style, this Chardonnay has flavors of buttered toast, pineapple jam, vanilla and cinnamon spice.
At the age of three-plus years, it’s soft and mellow. Not
likely to improve, so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
89
Cakebread 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Rich and oaky, with pineapple jam, tangerine juice, buttered toast and vanilla spice flavors. It’s
a big, opulent wine, but a little in your face. Drink now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $37
89
Deep Sea 2009 Chardonnay (Central
Coast). Made in a bone dry, acidic style, what
this Chardonnay lacks in richness it makes up for in elegance. Fans of sweet, buttery Chards won’t like it, but
true aficionados will appreciate the austere citrus and
mineral flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $21
88
Bonterra 2010 Chardonnay (Mendocino County). Bonterra excels with this leaner,
lighter, brighter form of Chardonnay. Made out of organically grown grapes, it’s crisp as a green apple, with
just a trace of butterscotch on the otherwise lemony finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
88
J. Wilkes 2008 Bien Nacido Vineyard
Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Lush,
creamy and smooth, with buttered toast, lemon custard,
crême brulée and spice flavors. Maybe a little overworked, but it satisfies Chardonnay cravings. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $24
88
Melville 2010 Verna’s Estate Chardonnay
(Santa Barbara County). New oak sticks
out on this Chardonnay, with buttered toast and vanilla
dominating the tropical fruit, orange and Meyer lemon
flavors. It’s finely constructed, with deft acidity and a
stony minerality. Drink now–2013. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $22
Darcie Kent Vineyards 2010 DeMayo
Vineyard Chardonnay (Livermore Valley).
For full review see page 9.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
Francis Ford Coppola 2010 Director’s
Cut Chardonnay (Russian River Valley).
Made in the popular style, with flavors of buttered popcorn, toast, honey, pineapple and vanilla. Tastes rather
sweet, but brisk acidity helps maintain balance. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
87
Francis Ford Coppola 2010 Votre Santé
Chardonnay (California). Lots to like in this
smooth, polished Chardonnay. It shows plenty of ripe
pineapple, peach and pear flavors, with overtones of
vanilla and buttered toast. Good price for the quality.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
87
Sarah’s Vineyard 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). Seems like it might have
been better a year ago. Although you’ll find rich pineapple, lemon drop and butterscotch flavors, they’re getting a little tired, and the oak is starting to dominate.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $25
87
Tortoise Creek 2010 Jam’s Blend Chardonnay (Lodi). For full review see page 11.
Best Buy.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $11
86
apple fruit. Brisk acidity and a tangy minerality add layers of appeal. —S.H.
Price: $18
abv: 14.1%
85
Black Box 2010 Chardonnay (Monterey
County). At the equivalent of about $6 a bottle, this is a good buy. It’s made in the popular Chardonnay style, with pineapple, peach and spice flavors accented by smoky oak. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25/3 L
85
Concannon 2010 Reserve Chardonnay
(Livermore Valley). A ripe Chardonnay, big
and full, with fistfuls of oak influence and a spoonful of
sugar to help it go down. Find some rich crab cakes in a
creamy sauce and enjoy. —V.B.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $20
85
De Loach 2010 OFS Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). New oak accounts for only
30% of the barrel regimen, but it dominates this Chardonnay, with buttered toast, vanilla and caramel flavors.
Fortunately there’s also strong pineapple, Asian pear
and apricot fruit, but the oak is too powerful. —S.H.
Price: $30
abv: 14.5%
85
Garnet 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma
Coast). Butterscotch and pineapple and peach
jam flavors mark this Chardonnay. Fortunately, it’s balanced with crisp acidity and a certain minerality. It’s an
obvious crowd pleaser, and would score higher except
for the seemingly sweet finish. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
85
Sarah’s Vineyard 2010 Chardonnay
(Central Coast). Take a few bucks off the
price, and this would be a good value. As things stand,
this Chardonnay, which is a blend of Santa Clara Valley
and Santa Cruz Mountains fruit, is fairly standard. It’s
dry and crisp, with pleasant lemon-custard flavors that
turn a little unripe on the finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $20
Black Stallion 2010 Chardonnay (Napa
Valley). Dry, minerally and acidic, this Chardonnay offers pineapple, lemon and mineral flavors. It’s
a food-friendly wine that won’t compete with what you
eat. At this price, it’s a good restaurant wine, and easy to
find, with 7,500 cases produced. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
Bardessono 2010 Chardonnay (Knights
Valley). Not much going on in this heavy Chardonnay beyond the oak. There are modest pineapple
and peach flavors, but they wash away quickly. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $27
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Rodney Strong 2009 Reserve Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Overworked
and oaky, with vanilla, buttered toast and sweet caramel
flavors dominating everything else. Buried beneath are
pineapple and pear flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
Ruby Hill Winery 2009 Reserve Chardonnay (Livermore Valley). Ruby Hill’s Reserve
has the requisite pear, lemon and tropical fruit so many
Chardonnay lovers adore, and its barrel influence is very
strong, both in its richness and creamy body. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
Summerland 2010 Chardonnay (Santa
Barbara County). Oak stands out, bringing
buttered toast and butterscotch candy flavors that dominate the underlying pineapple, lemon drop and green
84
Castle Rock 2010 Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). Too oaky and forward in tropical fruit flavors. Takes the popular style and exaggerates
it. It will nonetheless appeal to lots of people. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
Stonegate 2010 Collection Chardonnay
(California). Toasty oak, pineapples, oranges
and vanilla combine in this Chardonnay to make it an
easy-drinking everyday sipper. It seems little sweet, like
jam. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
Whetstone 2009 El Pajaro Chardonnay
(Carneros). An eccentric Chardonnay, not at
all like the vast majority. With its apricot jam, lychee,
sautéed banana, honey and crême brulée flavors, it’s an
outlier. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $45
WineMag.com | 47
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Sebastiani 2009 Chardonnay (Carneros).
Too sweet, like pineapple and pear juice sweetened with white sugar. The underlying wine is pretty
good, with decent acidity and a clean minerality. But
that sweetness is over the top. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $25
82
Foyt Family 2010 No. 67 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). Simple and soft, with sugary
sweet apricot and orange flavors that turn cloying on the
finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
82
Pomar Junction 2009 Espiritu Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). Sweet and
simple, with orange and vanilla cream flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $25
82
Sebastiani 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma
County). Made in the popular style, this Chardonnay features buttered popcorn, pineapple jam and
buttered toast flavors. Turns cloyingly sweet on the finish. —S.H.
Price: $13
abv: 13.5%
SAUVIGNON BLANC
92
Dutton Estate 2010 Cohen Vineyard Dutton Ranch Sauvignon Blanc (Russian
River Valley). This wine saw no oak barrel aging, but
it’s so rich and satisfyingly clean, it’s probably better off
not being weighed down by caramel and buttered toast.
Brimming with brisk acidity, it shows brilliantly pure citrus fruit, tart gooseberry, Asian pear, green apple, mineral and white pepper flavors. The vineyard is in Green
Valley. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $22
90
Deep Sea 2009 Coquina Sauvignon
Blanc (Arroyo Grande Valley). A delicious
Sauvignon Blanc, really fine. It showcases how well this
cool little corner of Monterey County, with its stony
soils, ripens white wines. Brisk in acidity and laden with
minerals, it offers rich flavors of citrus fruits, white flowers, white currants and spices. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $32
90
Foursight 2010 Charles Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Anderson Valley). Anderson
Valley is better known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay,
but the cool climate is also good for Sauvignon Blanc.
Foursight’s 2010 is a delightful wine, vibrant in citrus,
tropical fruit and peach flavors, and there’s no oak to
interfere with its purity. With a finish that seems just
a little sweet, it’s a fine companion for Asian fare. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $20
90
Raymond 2010 Reserve Selection Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Fermented and
aged in stainless steel, this wine is all about fresh, vibrant fruit. Limes, Meyer lemons, gooseberries, Asian
pears and something tropical, like papayas, all mingle
together. Aging on the lees, which is a popular intervention in many unoaked white wines, gives addition-
48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
al notes of cream and sourdough. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
Price: $15
abv: 14.8%
88
Carica 2010 Kick Ranch Sauvignon
Blanc (Sonoma County). A very nice Sauvignon, easy to drink, and showing lots of style and elegance. Bone dry and zesty in acidity, it has citrus, tropical fruit and white pepper flavors, with a stimulating
touch of tart gooseberry. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $21
88
Dutton Estate 2010 Kylie’s Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). This is
Dutton Estate’s unoaked Sauvignon Blanc. It did not
go through the malolactic fermentation, but it started as very ripe grapes, so what you get is pure citrus,
Asian pear, white peach and green apple flavor, zesty
and clean in acidity, with slight a sweetness in the finish. Nice with Indian, Chinese, Vietnamese fare. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $20
87
Cakebread 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). With bright, zesty acidity, this Sauvignon Blanc is clean and vibrant in orange, pineapple,
lime and gooseberry flavors. If only it finished drier, it
would be superb. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $24
87
Flora Springs 2010 Soliloquy Sauvignon
Blanc (Oakville). This proprietary bottling
from Flora Springs has been around for a long time. It’s
a good wine, satisfying in citrus, peach and spice flavors,
leading to a clean, fruity-sweet finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $20
87
Jacob Franklin 2010 Massa Ranch Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). The
vineyard is in Yountville, and the wine shows plenty of
the zesty acidity that marks this cool portion of Napa
Valley. The wine also exhibits ripe flavors of oranges,
Meyer lemons, kiwi fruit and sweet limes. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $26
86
J Ludlow 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa
Ynez Valley). Brisk in acidity, this everyday
Sauvignon Blanc has ripe, bright flavors of tangerines,
peaches and pineapples. It’s a good by-the-glass wine
for restaurants. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $19
86
J Ludlow 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa
Ynez Valley). This is a good, everyday Sauvignon Blanc. It’s sweet and jammy in pineapples, grapefruits, peaches and tangerines, brightened with crisp
acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $19
86
Lola Kay 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). For full review see page 9.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $16
86
Sea Fog 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). A touch of oak adds some creaminess,
but this 100% Sauvignon Blanc is marked mainly by
fresh fruit flavors of lemons, limes and oranges. It’s zesty
in acidity, but could be a little drier. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
VIOGNIER
86
Melville 2010 Verna’s Estate Viognier
(Santa Barbara County). Despite lots of ripe
peach, white flower and spice flavors, this Viognier is a
little uneven. It’s too sweet, almost a dessert wine, and
yet there’s a green pea, vegetal note. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $26
84
Whetstone 2009 Catie’s Corner Vineyard
Viognier (Russian River Valley). Toasted
oak dominates everything in this Viognier, which features charred wood, buttered toast, butterscotch and
vanilla aromas and flavors. The fruit is pretty buried.
—S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $40
82
Pomar Junction 2010 Viognier (Paso Robles). Sweet, soft and simple to the point of
insipid, with jellied apricot, orange and vanilla flavors.
—S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $25
WHITE BLENDS
88
Venge 2010 Spettro (Napa Valley). Cabernet specialist Venge tinkers with white blends
under the Spettro designation, with inconsistent results.
This 2010 is mainly Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay,
with a splash of Chenin Blanc. It’s a good, sound white
wine, dry and crisp in acidity, with mineral-infused pear,
citrus fruit and apricot flavors. No oak is evident. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
87
Sarah’s Vineyard 2010 Estate Côte de
Madrone Blanc (Santa Clara Valley). This
Roussanne, Viognier, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc
blend is very rich and fruity. It has all kinds of fruity,
flowery, spicy and toasty flavors, brightened with crisp
acidity. A nice, easy-drinking alternative to a creamy
Chardonnay. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
85
Turn 4 2010 White (California). Sweet and
forward in pineapple, peach and lime flavors,
this is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. It
has good acidity and a clean, spicy finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
OTHER WHITE WINES
92
J. Wilkes 2007 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Blanc (Santa Maria Valley). Very rich
and opulent, with maybe a touch of botrytis giving the
apricot, orange and buttercream flavors a honeyed decadence. Bright acidity keeps it all clean and balanced.
Showing exceptionally well for a white wine at 4½ years
of age. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
92
Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel Vineyard Albariño (Russian River Valley). For
full review see page 6.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32
91
Coghlan 2009 Tourmaline Grenache
Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). For full review
see page 7.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $24
91
Cutruzzola 2010 Riven Rock Vineyard
Riesling (San Luis Obispo County). What
a lovely Riesling. The grapes were grown near the coast,
and you can taste the zesty natural acidity, which gives a
lift to the orange, lime, mineral and honeysuckle flavors.
It’s a little sweet, but the finish is dry and spicy. Great to
drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
90
Manzoni 2010 North Highlands Cuvée
Pinot Gris (Santa Lucia Highlands). Rich
doesn’t begin to describe this Pinot Gris. It’s explosive in
orange and apricot jam flavors, with vanilla and buttered
toast layers. There’s a fat, oily texture that adds interest
to a variety that can be simple. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $18
88
Tangent 2010 Grenache Blanc (Edna Valley). With no oak to interfere with the fruit, this
wine shows flashy tangerine, pineapple, Meyer lemon
and tart lime flavors that are bone dry, and brightened
by Edna Valley acidity. It’s savory, refreshing and frankly
delicious. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20
86
Bailiwick 2010 Vermentino (California).
Basically dry, this Vermentino is crisp in acidity and forward in lemon, lime and tangerine fruit. It’s
a nice, easy drinking wine to try as a switch from Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $18
SPARKLING WINES
91
One Hope 2009 Two Pisces Vineyard Reserve Blanc de Noir (Sonoma Coast). It’s
easy to like this smooth, clean sparkling wine, which
hails from the Petaluma Gap, an increasingly important
area in the cool, foggy south of the Russian River Valley.
It’s very rich in raspberries and strawberries, with notes
of sweet vanilla and yeast. The mouthfeel is smooth and
elegant. —S.H.
Price: $45
abv: 12.4%
89
One Hope 2009 Split Rock Vineyard Reserve Blanc de Blancs (Sonoma Coast).
A little rough in the mouth, with a scoury feeling. But
it’s extraordinarily rich in orange and lime flavors, with
the vanilla and yeasty dough accents you want in a nice
sparkling wine. —S.H.
abv: 12.4%
Price: $45
89
Schramsberg 2004 Extra Brut (North
Coast). Extra brut means that this Pinot Noirbased bubbly is drier than Schramsberg’s regular brut.
Even at the age of more than seven years, it’s aggressive
in bubbly acidity, with a scoury mouthfeel framing ripe
raspberry and lime flavors. Feels austere and hard, but
who knows? Could surprise. A gamble if you want to
cellar it. —S.H.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $70
87
Iron Horse 2007 Chinese Cuvée (Green
Valley). Iron Horse crafted this brut, which has
a gorgeous red and yellow label, for the Chinese market. It’s similar to their other bruts, dry and rich in lime,
strawberry and yeasty flavors, although it’s softer, which
may reflect what Iron Horse knows about the Chinese
palate. The price also seems to reflect what Iron Horse
believes the Chinese market will bear. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $98
CABERNETS & BLENDS
95
Hunnicutt 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Oakville). Strong Oakville tannins mark this
100% Cabernet, although they’re so ripely sweet, you
can negotiate them now, especially considering the opulence of the fruit. Blackberries, cassis and dark chocolate just begin to describe the flavors. They’re as sweet
as a dessert pastry, but the finish is utterly dry, a magic
trick the best red wines pull off. Beautiful now after decanting, and should develop through 2018. —S.H.
Price: $75
abv: 14.7%
thentic wine of place, it deserves a place on the best
tables. —S.H.
Price: $62
abv: 14.8%
94
Volker Eisele Family Estate 2008 Alexander Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).
For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125
93
Bennett Lane 2008 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A distinguished
Cabernet, rich in fruit and impeccably oaked. But it’s
young. There’s a fresh, jammy taste to the blackberries,
cassis and dark chocolate, and the tannins are brisk and
fuzzy. Don’t drink it until at least 2015, and it should
develop for years afterward. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $95
93
Flora Springs 2009 Hillside Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). For full review see page 4.
Price: $100
abv: 14.4%
95
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Hunnicutt 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Rutherford). Made from 100% Cabernet,
this wine hits all the right notes. It’s fantastically rich
and ripe, with flavors of sweet cherries, cassis and dark
chocolate, while oak brings delicious notes of buttered
toast. The tannins are complex, but so soft you can enjoy
this wine now, although it should develop for at least a
decade. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $75
Venge 2009 Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review
see page 3.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $80
94
Clos du Val 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Stags Leap District). One thing you can
depend on concerning Clos du Val’s Cabernets is that
they’re elegant. The winery resolutely refuses to kowtow to the modern style of ultraripe, extracted fruit,
high alcohol and massive oak. This lovely Cab, which
contains a drop of Merlot, defines their style, and is a
joy to drink. It has rich, complex cherry and blackberry
flavors, flecked with earth and herbs, and is just beginning a long journey. Now–2021, at least. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
Price: $75
abv: 13.5%
94
Pestoni Family 2007 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). A
terrific Cabernet Sauvignon, dramatically structured in
smooth mountain tannins, with lush, complex blackberry, cassis and dark chocolate flavors. Satisfies on every
level you could ask of Napa Valley. Good as it is, it will
age over a decade. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $65
94
Robert Young 2008 Scion Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Another terrific Scion from Robert Young. Blended this year from
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it’s rich in blackberry and cherry fruit, with
caramel from oak barrels. Feels soft and gentle in the
mouth, in the way of Alexander Valley Cabernet. An au-
Mario Perelli-Minetti 2005 Miriam Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Shows the lush richness, dryness and complexity
you want in a fine Napa Valley Cabernet. At more than
six years of age, the tannins are just beginning to resolve, although they’re still pretty fierce. But the flavors
are beautiful, showing classic blackberries, cassis, dark
chocolate, plums and cedar. Drink now–2015. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $75
Rodney Strong 2008 Symmetry Meritage
(Alexander Valley). For full review see page 5.
abv: 15%
Price: $55
93
Rutherford Grove 2008 Pestoni Family
Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford).
A beautiful Cabernet, dry and rich, with wonderful tannins. They’re firm, yet soft and sweet, an apparent contradiction the palate loves. Shows near perfect ripeness,
an impressive range of blackberries, plums and cassis,
and an earthy herbaceousness. May be a little too young
for proper enjoyment, so give it a few years in the cellar. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $45
92
Atlas Peak 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mount Veeder). For full review see page 5.
Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $86
92
Flora Springs 2009 Trilogy (Napa Valley).
For full review see page 6.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $65
92
Rubissow 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Seems to have hardly
aged over nearly six years, still showing massive blackberry, cherry, cassis and dark chocolate flavors, sweet
and fresh. Lots of oak, too, bringing even more caramelized sweetness. Yet the finish is dry, long and spicy.
Made from 100% Cabernet, but sometimes these wines
surprise. Give it another six years. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $125
WineMag.com | 49
91
Clone 7 2008 Reserve Cuvée Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review
see page 6. Editors’ Choice.
abv: NA
Price: $20
91
89
Armanino Family Cellars 2009 Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).
Marked by acidity, strong tannins and powerful fruit,
this Cabernet is a three-way playoff. The fruit is the obvious early victor, flashy in plums, blackberries, cassis
and cedar. But the astringency makes it difficult to enjoy
now. Cellar for six years, and see what happens. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $95
Rubissow 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Cabernet simply
doesn’t get richer or riper than this. It’s a massive explosion of sweet cherry and blackberry jam, cassis, dark
chocolate and caramelized oak, wrapped into firm tannins. Tastes like a candy bar now, nowhere near ready
to drink. Hold until 2015, at least. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $125
Darcie Kent Vineyards 2008 Madden
Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore
Valley). For full review see page 9.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $24
90
89
Atlas Peak 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 7.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $35
90
Bennett Lane 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Made in a style to appeal to
the popular taste for Cabernet, and succeeds wildly. It’s
delicious, offering waves of blackberries, cherries and
plums, wrapped in firm, ripe tannins and finished with
smoky oak. No mere fruit bomb, it’s a complex wine
with a long, spicy finish. Drink now–2014. —S.H.
Price: $55
abv: 14.5%
90
Buehler 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). For full review see page 7. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $25
90
Jacob Franklin 2007 Hoffman Lane Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made in
the modern style, this Cabernet is dark in color, soft in
acids and tannins, and enormously fruity. The flavors of
blackberries, blueberries, mocha and roasted nuts suggest sweetened granola candy. It’s a flashy wine that impresses for its sheer power. Drink now-2015. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $65
90
Occasio 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Livermore Valley). For full review see page
89
Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Hills Lake County).
Hawk and Horse have managed to make a delicious
Cabernet from a challenging vintage. Dark, earthy flavors of cedar, spice and blackberry, are enriched with
plenty of smoothness and structure to give it that extra
something special. Made by winemakers Dick Peterson
and Scott Harvey from a certified-Biodynamic vineyard
with rocky red soil at 2,200 feet above sea level. —V.B.
Price: $65
abv: 14.1%
90
Rubissow 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). At the age of more
than four years, this 100% Cabernet remains an immature clash of fruit, oak and tannins. Everything sticks
out, especially the massive blackberry and cassis flavors.
The oak is sweet and butterscotchy on the finish. With a
superb structure, it seems like an ideal cellar candidate,
except for a touch of bitter raisin in the finish. Hard to
predict its future. Try in 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $125
50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
Price: $44
88
Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Director’s
Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County).
Made from 100% Cabernet, this is a fine everyday wine.
It’s dry, full-bodied and satisfying in blackberry, cola and
currant flavors, with a nice kiss of oak. The alcohol level
is nice and low. Ready to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
88
Foyt Family 2009 No. 72 Meritage (Sonoma County). A nice dry wine to drink now.
It’s soft and velvety in the mouth, with flavors of blackberries, plums, anise and cedar. Blended with a little
Cabernet Franc and Merlot, it’s brightened by a bite of
acidity. —S.H.
Price: $32
abv: 14.5%
88
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Venge 2009 Silencieux Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A tremendous wine.
Made from 100% Cabernet and raised for nearly two
years in 40% new French oak, it defines the ripe, hedonistic Napa style. Yet it’s no mere fruit bomb, offering a
tobaccoey earthiness to the berries. A touch of raisins
and heat in the finish seems to limit ageability, though,
so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $48
88
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Rubissow 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mount Veeder). For full review see page 8.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
page 9.
abv: 15.2%
89
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Fazeli Cellars 2008 Khayyam Cabernet
Sauvignon (California). For full review see
Frias 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring
Mountain). Acidity hits the palate like a shard
of glass, immediately followed by rich, concentrated flavors of blackberries, cassis and spices. The tannins are
strong, too. All the parts simply have not come together.
Will it age well? It’s not a slam dunk. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
Rodney Strong 2008 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). For full review see page 8.
abv: 15%
Price: $45
Price: $36
88
Silver Oak 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Lots of nice blackberry, cassis,
plum and new oak flavors in this dry, tannic Cabernet.
It hews to an old-fashioned style, with an earthiness that
suggests time in the cellar. Try after 2014. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $100
Amizetta 2009 Terraced Hillside Estate
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Lots
of ripe blackberry and cherry fruit in this Cabernet, accented with notes of licorice and oak. It’s a good wine,
full-bodied, tannic and dry. Very good now, especially
after a brief decant, but too dependent on fruit for a
higher score, and doesn’t seem like an ager. —S.H.
Price: $45
abv: 14.5%
8.
abv: 13.5%
in some way, yet intensely dark, brooding and velvety.
—V.B.
Price: $35
abv: 14.5%
Coghlan 2009 Spessartite on Quartz Fusion (Santa Ynez Valley). Half Merlot and
half Cabernet Sauvignon. The Merlot saves the day, rescuing the underripe Cab with rich flavors of cherries
and red plums. Oak adds the usual notes of sweet buttered toast and spice. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $47
88
Concannon 2008 Mother Vine Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley).
This wine adds to the growing case to be made for Cabernet Sauvignon in Livermore Valley. Mother Vine Reserve is a smallish offering for Concannon, loaded with
black olive, tea and black pepper. It’s Cab Franc-esque
Ideology Cellars 2008 Estate Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). With sweet blackberry, cassis, anise and mocha flavors, this Cabernet is a
flashy wine, but you’ll find some overripe, raisiny notes
toward the finish. Drink now before it goes downhill.
—S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $48
88
J Ludlow 2009 Kemsley 1550 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). Here’s
a softly smooth, polished Cabernet for drinking now.
Blended with 20% Merlot, it has approachable flavors
of berries, mocha, cassis and toasty oak. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $30
88
Jacob Franklin 2007 #50 Mon Chou
(Napa Valley). Marked by enormously ripe,
powerful fruit flavors, this wine explodes with jammy
blackberries, cherries and red plums. Oak adds even
richer notes of toast and sweet caramel. Drink this deliciously soft wine now. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $55
88
Mario Perelli-Minetti 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Lots of ripe, pleasurable flavors of blackberries, black currants, dark chocolate, plums and oak in this dry, nicely structured Cabernet. It’s pretty tannic, though, with a tough astringency,
and doesn’t have the fruit to outlast the tannins over
time, so give it a decant and drink soon. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $23
88
Maroon 2009 Maroon Vineyard Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Sweet
and lush, showing ripe blackberry, plum, cassis, raisin
and oak flavors. It’s one of those wines that just feels
fine in the mouth, satisfying your basic Cabernet craving. Drink now–2015. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $80
88
The Grade 2008 Winfield Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Calistoga). This 100%
Cabernet was grown in a Calistoga vineyard. It was aged
in 40% new oak. At the age of 3½ years, it’s still quite
tannic, even a bit rustic, with zippy acidity and fresh,
jammy blackberry and black cherry flavors. Hard to say
where it’s going, but try aging it for 5–6 years and see
what happens. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $80
88
Tortoise Creek 2009 Cherokee Lane Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). For full review see
page 11. Best Buy.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $11
87
Beringer 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). Feels rough in the
mouth, with jagged tannins framing ripe, extracted
blackberry jam and oak flavors. A little rustic and fruitysweet now, but could gain traction with a few years in
the cellar. —S.H.
Price: $45
abv: 14.5%
87
Black Box 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(California). Quite a good Cabernet, especially at this price. They blended some other varieties, including Zinfandel, Malbec and Petite Sirah, which bring
extra layers. It’s a fine everyday wine—fruity, spicy, fullbodied and dry. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25/3 L
87
Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Black Label Diamond Collection 1910 Type Claret Cabernet Sauvignon (California). A rich, lusty
wine, dry and easy to like for its array of blackberry,
cherry, anise and sandalwood flavors. Made from the
traditional Bordeaux varieties, based on Cabernet Sauvignon, it really pleases the palate. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
87
J Ludlow 2009 Jane (Santa Ynez Valley).
Mostly Merlot, with some Cabernet Sauvignon,
this blend starts out a bit angular, so give it some air before drinking. Although it’s not an ager, it shows pleasantly ripe blackberry, cherry, mocha, herb and spice flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $35
87
J Ludlow 2008 Kemsley 1550 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). Fresh and
jammy in raspberries, cherries and blackberries, this
wine trades complexity for sheer fruity power and lusciousness. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $30
87
Lava Cap 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (El Dorado). A very soft-textured Cab,
unusual for its high-elevation origins, with sweet red
fruit and dark plum nestled around a trace of chocolate. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
87
Valley Legend 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(St. Helena). With a soft mouthfeel and upfront cherry, blueberry and blackberry flavors, this Cabernet puts all its chips on sheer deliciousness. It’s a winner, but not an ager. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $60
86
Burgess 2008 Estate Vineyards Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made from estate
grapes, this blend of all five Bordeaux varieties shows
the hard tannins and minerality that characterize Howell Mountain reds. However, it’s surprisingly soft and its
blackberries and currants are modest in scale, making it
a sound wine for drinking now, but not for aging. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
86
Cakebread 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Oak dominates this wine, with
toasty charcoal aromas and flavors. The underlying
wine seems pretty simple, with blackberry fruit flavors.
Doesn’t seem capable of aging, so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $60
86
ecoVINO NV Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendocino County). Encased in a lightweight,
eco-friendly AstraPouch, this easy-to-share Cabernet is
full of bright, cherry-fruit flavors and clove. It’s simply
drinkable and a good way to go for picnics, tailgates or
when you just want a small pour. —V.B.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $19/1.5 L
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Heron 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendocino County). A simple, straightforward
Cab. It shows herb and green pepper amid clove and
currant and it’s low enough in alcohol not to mess you
up. A perfectly fine everyday wine. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
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Hesperian 2007 Harry’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The vineyard
is in Coombsville, a cool part of the valley that recently
received official recognition as an AVA. The wine, which
was made from 100% Cabernet, is soft, sweet and oaky,
showing simple blackberry, cherry and anise flavors.
—S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $70
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Hesperian 2007 Muscatine Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Almost black in color and still very tannic, even at more
than four years of age, this Cabernet is dry and soft in
blackberry, cassis, dark chocolate and oak flavors. Despite being made from 100% Cabernet, its aging possibilities seem limited. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $80
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Hesperian 2007 Tom’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). Ripeness was
no problem during this fantastic vintage. The wine is
rich and satisfying in black cherries, currants, cola, spicy
mushu plum sauce and sandalwood flavors. There are
some irregularities, though, that limit the point score,
such as excessive softness, out of place acidity and a candied sweetness on the finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
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Hesperian 2007 Tony’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). Soft
and melted in the mouth, this 100% Cabernet has deep
flavors of blackberries, currants and minerals. It’s delicious, yet the structure is soft yet weirdly acidic. Doesn’t
seem like an ager. —S.H.
Price: $70
abv: 14.8%
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J Ludlow 2008 Jane (Santa Ynez Valley).
A Bordeaux blend based on Merlot, this is a
pretty good wine for drinking now. It’s soft and fruity,
with cherry, mocha, spice and oak flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $35
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Perry Creek 2008 Altitude: 2401 Cabernet Sauvignon (El Dorado). Fair Play-based
Perry Creek’s Cab has high toned blue and red fruit and
is tamely structured for being from high-elevation vineyards. Its finish is sweetly floral. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $25
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Q 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma
County). A standard Cabernet, dry and tannic.
The best thing is the deep core of blackberry, currant,
mineral and spice flavors. Drink now–2014. —S.H.
Price: $14
abv: 13.5%
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Salvatore Principe 2010 Maestro Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Rich, mountainous yet velvety, this affordable Cab offers boysenberry, blackberry and green pepper, and a whiff of
baked bread. Perfect for filling people’s glasses up at a
party. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
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Beringer 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Knights Valley). Tastes harsh and tannic,
with extracted blackberry fruit that’s so ripe, it veers
into sweet raisins. Pretty rustic, but gets the Cabernet
job done. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $27
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Coghlan 2009 Amethyst Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). Shows the difficulties of making Cabernet succeed in this Santa Barbara County inland valley. It’s awkward, with sweet blackberry and bell pepper flavors swamped with oak. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $54
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Concannon 2007 Heritage Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). There’s tobacco
and chocolate throughout this highend Cab offering
from Concannon. Maybe it’s the vintage, maybe it’s the
time in bottle, but the wine’s complexity appears limited. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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EOS 2009 French Connection (Paso Robles). Ripe and jammy, with blackberry, coffee,
currant and cedar flavors, wrapped into firm tannins. It’s
a bit rustic. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
and Petit Verdot. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
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Judd’s Hill 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Direct and fruity, with blackberry and blueberry flavors, wrapped into rugged tannins. Finishes a little sweet. Drink over the next few
years. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $45
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One Hope 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(California). Very ripe and fruity, like the essence of blackberry and cherry jam in liquid form, with
a sprinkle of anise, pepper, cocoa and cinnamon. Delicious, yes, but rather sweet and simple. Drink now.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
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Sebastiani 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Sonoma County). A sound Cabernet, fruitforward and somewhat one-dimensional, with cherry,
blackberry and raspberry fruit. Oak adds sweet notes of
caramel. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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Stonegate 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). A solid effort, fruity in blackberries, currants and oak, with a smooth mouthfeel. Not
especially complex, but a polished wine for drinking
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $25
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Summerland 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles). A soft and simple Cabernet,
with jammy blackberry, currant and sweet oak flavors.
The finish is long and spicy. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
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Tedeschi Family 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Tastes tired, with dried
out tannins framing blackberry and oak flavors. Interesting, but catch it now before it goes further downhill.
—S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $58
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Tedeschi Family 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). At the age of more than
seven years, this wine is getting tired. It’s drying out and
softening, with mellow tannins and raisiny flavors that
testify to the heat of the vintage. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $58
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Castle Rock 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles). Simple and dry, this Cabernet has modest blackberry, tea and oak flavors. With its
firm tannins, it gets the basic Cabernet job done. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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Pomar Junction 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Soft, sweet and high in
alcohol, with candied berry flavors and an unripe hint of
vegetables. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $34
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Stonegate 2010 Collection Cabernet
Sauvignon (California). A hard wine to like.
It’s o.k. for parties and such, but is pretty simple and
sweet. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
OTHER RED BLENDS
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Bennett Lane 2008 Maximus (Napa Valley). This is one of the best red wines at this
price in California. A Bordeaux blend with a splash of
Syrah, it’s so rich and opulent, it just dazzles from start
to finish. Floods the mouth with sweet cherries, rasp52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
berries, milk chocolate and red licorice, yet gets structure from firm tannins and bracing acidity. Lives up to
its name, a Cabernet-based wine to feast on with your
favorite foods. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
Price: $35
abv: 14.5%
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La Clarine Farm 2010 Piedi Grandi (Sierra Foothills). Winemaker Hank Beckmeyer
goes where his vinous muses take him and this new wine
of his is a perfect example of his “why not” attitude. It
contains 56% Nebbiolo from the Sumu Kaw Vineyard
as well as 30% Syrah from the same, 9% Mourvèdre,
2.5% Viognier and 2.5% Roussanne. It’s jam-packed in a
lilting way with fresh, bright strawberry and intense aromas of perfume and freshly picked herbs. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $22
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Cedarville Vineyard 2009 Turnabout’s
(Fair Play). Cedarville’s ode to Priorat, this is
a mix of 45% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 25% Cabernet
Sauvignon. The three get along swimmingly, amusingly
mixing into a triad of dark blackberry, dark licorice and
dark chocolate. The rich texture is on the mark, and the
wine provides just the right heft for any spicy, brawny
meal. —V.B.
Price: $39
abv: 14.9%
88
McCay Cellars 2008 Paisley (Lodi). McCay is a producer to watch in Lodi and this
wine is a perfect example of why. A blend of four different Zinfandels and Petite Sirah, it opens with a nose
of baked blackberry clafouti with a bit of hazelnut and
almond, a still-tight wine that with air shows a ton of
structure and layered tannins. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $24
88
Occasio 2009 Sotto Voce (Livermore Valley). Winemaker John Kinney blends 50% Cabernet Sauvignon from Galles Vineyard with 50% Del
Arroyo Vineyard Petite Sirah, trying to take advantage
of the Cab’s floral, herbal notes and the Petite’s concentration and wall of tannins. He has largely succeeded.
This dark-black wine is very much full of intense cherry
and structured tannins and leathery spice. Petite Sirah
lovers will particularly swoon. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $30
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Paraduxx 2008 Blue Wing Teal (Napa Valley). This blend, which is mainly Zinfandel and
Cabernet Sauvignon, is robust. It’s a trattoria or bistro
wine, dry, tannic and spicy, with earthy flavors. Drink
now with rich foods to tease out the berry fruit. —S.H.
Price: $48
abv: 14.6%
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Sebastiani 2008 Secolo (Sonoma County). Made mostly with Bordeaux varieties based
on Cabernet Sauvignon, with a dash of Syrah, this is a
fine wine. It’s dry, full-bodied and packed with blackberry, cassis, bacon and spice flavors, leading to a long,
impressive finish. Give it a decant and enjoy as it warms
in the glass. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $35
Cabot Vineyards 2007 Tributary (Humboldt County). A concoction of 66% Zinfandel, 33% Syrah and 1% Viognier that’s thick in tannins,
meat and dusty earth, or is it earthy dust? The black
licorice is mighty memorable. —V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $22
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Borra 2009 Fusion (Lodi). Fusion blends
79% Syrah, 15% Petite Sirah, 5% Zinfandel and
1% Alicante Bouschet a delicious case in point. Gamy,
with flavors of dark earth, thick blackberry jam and dark
plum, it’s the tobacco kicker on the finish that’ll bring
you back. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $19
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Cabot Vineyards 2007 Confluence (Humboldt County). This blend of 50% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 30% Syrah and 20% Merlot has a fruity nose,
the Syrah’s leathery-ness is quite strong, surrounded by
raspberry sweetness and red cherry from the Cab and
Merlot. Although it’s been in bottle some time, the finish is grippy and strongly tobacco-infused. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $25
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Fazeli Cellars 2008 Yalda (Temecula Valley). For full review see page 9.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $48
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Lola Kay 2010 Proprietary Red Wine
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 9.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $20
Rodrigue Molyneaux 2009 Il Segreto Red
Wine (Livermore Valley). A rich, earthy
blend of half Barbera, half Zinfandel that tastes light at
first, earthy with raspberry and cherry tones. On the finish, it gets darker, its spicy, dark fruit tones memorably
bound in a wall of leather and tobacco. —V.B.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $24
Ruby Hill Winery 2009 Grapeful Red
(Livermore Valley). A miracle for Grateful
Dead fans who have matured into wine, there’s lots to
like in this red blend that’s got bright, friendly cherry
fruit, a lick of spice and surprising sophistication. It’s
medium in weight, with a shock of silky berry fruit on
the finish. The blend is 60% Zinfandel, 23% Petite Sirah, 11% Barbera and 6% Sangiovese. Pair it with mushroom pizza or burgers. Jerry would approve. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $15
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Yorba 2007 Shake Ridge Red (Amador
County). A dark, brooding showcase of many
of Shake Ridge Vineyards’s finest varieties mixed into
one inviting bottle. With 31% Syrah, 28% Primitivo,
18% Petite Sirah, 10% Mourvèdre, 7% Malbec and 6%
Merlot, this wine has baked plum and dark bright cherry predominantly, followed by a grip of tobacco and cinnamon spice. Have it with roasted meat and potatoes.
—V.B.
Price: $28
abv: 14.5%
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Borra NV Lot 09 47.5 Degree Limited Release (Lodi). Borra is going old-school here,
making the wine nonvintage and putting 10% each of
Syrah and Mourvedre into Petite Sirah. Smelling of
freshly baked bread, the wine is full of structured red
fruit, while its tannins are soft and finish is easygoing. A
fine bottle for rustic fare. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
87
Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Director’s
Cut Cinema (Sonoma County). Made
from Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc
and Petite Sirah, it’s an easy drinking wine despite the
firm tannins. Shows lush, ripe blackberry, black currant,
raspberry, cola and spice flavors, with a dry finish. Ready
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
82
Pomar Junction 2009 Train Wreck (Paso
Robles). It’s soft and sweet and tastes like
prune juice and crushed black pepper. The blend is
based on Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $48
MERLOT
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Gnarly Head 2010 Authentic Red (Lodi).
The easy-to-find Gnarly Head, a blend of 50%
Zinfandel, 20% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10%
Petite Sirah and 3% Syrah, is young and ready to drink.
Its fruity nose and peppery spice tmakes it a full-blown
crowd pleaser ready for backyard barbecues. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
Murrieta’s Well 2009 The Spur (Livermore Valley). Medium weight and easygoing,
this blend of 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Malbec,
11% Petit Verdot, 7% Cab Franc, 6% Petite Sirah and
4% Merlot has modest tannins and cranberry flavors
and will both please a crowd and pair with a wide range
of foods. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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D’Anbino 2007 Quadraphonic (Paso Robles). Made from traditional Bordeaux varieties plus Syrah, this is a soft, simple, fruity wine. The
raspberry, cherry, cola and spice flavors finish a bit
sweet. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $28
Hunnicutt 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley).
Grown in the cool Coombsville area, this fruitforward 100% Merlot has considerable charm. Dominated by rich flavors of cherry tart, blueberries, anise
and butterscotch, it’s a softly tannic wine to drink over
the next few years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
Rutherford Grove 2008 Estate Merlot
(Rutherford). If you think you don’t like Merlot, try this one. It shows classic Napa Valley structure,
with smooth, firm tannins and seductive flavors of sweet
cherries, plums and currants. Delicious now with a good
steak. —S.H.
Price: $32
abv: 15.1%
90
Black Box 2009 Merlot (California). Blended with a little Syrah, Petite Sirah and Sangiovese, this Merlot in a big box is clearly a terrific value.
It’s so lush and delicious in berries and spices, it’s crazy
that the price works out to $6.25 for a regular bottle.
With production over 200,000 cases, it’s a testament to
the art of blending. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25/3 L
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DC Flynt MW Selections 2009 First Timer
(California). This is a softly delicious red wine.
It’s strong and jammy in raspberries, cherries and milk
chocolate, and is a little sweet, with a spicy finish. Nice
barbecue wine. Mainly Zinfandel, with Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot and a few others. Best Buy.—S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $10
Colby Red 2010 Red (California). This
blend of five varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel, is soft and sweet. Call it bistro
style. It’s jammy in cherries, licorice and mocha. Proceeds from the wine’s sales go to heart disease research.
—S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $13
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MICA Cellars 2009 CFM Jolon Vineyard
(San Antonio Valley). A field blended red
wine of 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Cabernet Franc
and 33% Merlot. There’s red cherry and herbal stuff going on, but the wine also lacks texture and depth. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
83
Pomar Junction 2010 Brooster Fighting
Red (Paso Robles). Too soft in structure, and
sweet, too, like berry fruit concentrate. Fans of sweet,
simple red wines will like this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Zinfandel. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $18
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D’Anbino 2007 Orchestration (Paso Robles). Soft, sweet, hot and underripe, with vegetal flavors. Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $28
Cakebread 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley).
Smooth, sweet in fruit and easy to like. With its
jammy flavors of blackberries and mocha, it’s delicious,
although it would benefit from greater complexity and
not so much reliance on sheer intensity and oak. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $54
Cabot Vineyards 2007 Merlot (Humboldt
County). This is a confounding wine in many
ways, one that could have easily scored higher, or scored
lower. It starts with an almost alarming taste of vanilla
and cherry coke and a slight bite of alcohol, but over
time, got much more interesting. Finally, it turned
earthy with pleasant hits of olive and caramel competing for dominance. —V.B.
Price: $22
abv: 15.5%
87
Darcie Kent Vineyards 2009 Crown Block
Merlot (Livermore Valley). For full review
see page 9.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
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Middle Ridge 2008 Reserve Merlot (Temecula Valley). A light, easy-drinking Merlot
that spent two months in new French oak and otherwise
speaks of dark plums and earth. Some bottle variation;
two bottles tasted. —V.B.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $42
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Oberon 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). A
sound, likeable Merlot, whose fruity richness,
soft tannins and relatively modest price make it a good
buy. It’s forward in blackberry jam, cassis, red licorice
and smoky oak flavors. —S.H.
Price: $22
abv: 13.7%
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Amizetta 2009 Terraced Hillside Estate
Merlot (Napa Valley). Rugged in the mouth,
with edgy tannins, this Merlot also features ripe berrycherry fruit that seems a little sweet. Ready to drink
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
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Hannah Nicole Vineyards 2009 Merlot
(Contra Costa County). Hannah Nicole’s
Merlot is one of its better wines, tasting of red plum and
vanilla-laced toasted oak, its tannins grippy, with plenty of dried herb flavors in the background. Smooth and
big. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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Raymond 2008 Reserve Selection Merlot
(Napa Valley). This is a good Merlot for the
price, showing black cherry, prune, unsweetened chocolate and herb flavors, wrapped into smooth but firm
tannins. Production is 6,000 cases. —S.H.
Price: $23
abv: 14.5%
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Yorkville Cellars 2009 Rennie Vineyard
Merlot (Yorkville Highlands). Made from
organic grapes, Yorkville’s light-bodied Merlot is dry
and herbal, with cedar in spades rounded out by elegant plum and chocolate softness. This vintage has 10%
Cabernet Sauvignon as well, and would match well with
lighter meats, like chicken. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Brass Tacks 2009 Merlot (Central Coast).
An inexpensive Merlot that’s herbal. It also
shows cranberry and menthol amid a light toasting of
oak. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Stonegate 2010 Collection Merlot (California). This is a simple, fruity wine whose
berry and spice flavors have some appeal. It’s soft and
sweet. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
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Burgess 2008 Triere Estate Vineyard Merlot (Napa Valley). Made from 100% Merlot
grown in Yountville, this is a lean, unforgiving wine. It’s
bone dry and tannic, with modest cherry fruit. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $28
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Darcie Kent Vineyards 2008 Picazo Vineyard Merlot (Livermore Valley). Not as
good as Darcie Kent’s Crown Block Merlot, this one is
smooth, with big-shouldered tannins. It tastes of raisin
toast, dried plums and tobacco, with menthol darting in
and out along the edges. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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Sarah’s Vineyard 2007 Merlot (Santa
Cruz Mountains). They held this wine back
nearly five years before releasing it, but it’s still fiercely
tannic. That’s the main problem, and to judge by the
fruit, which is entering a mature phase, the wine’s future
is in doubt. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $25
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Pomar Junction 2008 Merlot (Paso Robles). Tastes like fruit-based syrup, with cherry
and spice flavors. Lacks vivacity. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $28
PINOT NOIR
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Merry Edwards 2009 Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Amazingly rich, offering deep, complex layers of cherries, black
raspberries, cola, anise biscotti, pomegranates, persimmons, black tea, orange zest, mushrooms, you name
it, but don’t forget the spices, everything from cloves
and black pepper to cinnamon. Utterly delicious, with a
silky, briskly clean mouthfeel. But the tannins are pronounced. They’re not so strong as to lock the wine down,
but do suggest time in the cellar. Give it four years, and
it could be wonderful after 10 or more. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $57
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Marimar Estate 2008 La Masía Don
Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 3.
Price: $39
abv: 14.7%
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Merry Edwards 2009 Meredith Estate Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Here’s a
Pinot to put into your cellar. That’s if you can keep from
opening it now and savoring the deep, spicy flavors that
are so captivating. Offers up layers of cherries, cola,
pomegranates, mushrooms, Indian spices and minerals,
not to mention a deft touch of sweet, smoky oak. Wonderful tannins and brisk acidity provide balancing structure to the richness. The finish is long. Drink anytime
from now through 2017. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $57
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Longoria 2009 Fe Ciega Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page
3. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $48
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Merry Edwards 2009 Flax Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). A distinguished
Pinot Noir, notable for its pure, refined structure. Although it’s entirely dry, the cherry, licorice and pomegranate flavors are so rich, the wine tastes sweet. The
earthiness of the soil shows up in a taste of sautéed wild
mushrooms, splashed with balsamic. A brilliant wine,
capable of aging for a decade. Perfect with roast lamb.
—S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $54
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Armanino Family Cellars 2010 Amber
Ridge Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).
Armanino’s 2010 shows a welcome return to form after the 2009. Indeed, it’s more like the ’08, vastly rich
in raspberry and cherry compote, gingersnap cookie,
sweet, caramelized oak and exotic spice flavors. Feels
like pure silk and satin in the mouth, making it perfect
for drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $55
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Chronicle 2009 Cerise Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see
page 3. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $60
54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
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Chronicle 2009 Savoy Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Anderson Valley). The grapes obviously were well grown, as this wine shows a particular
intensity of red cherry fruit, as well as minerality. The
acidity is just about perfect, the tannins brisk and fine.
Yet it’s too young to offer full enjoyment. Cellar this polished Pinot Noir for 4–6 years to let it change in interesting ways. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $60
94
Coghlan 2009 Diopside Pinot Noir (Sta.
Rita Hills). For full review see page 4. Cellar
Selection.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Kazmer & Blaise 2009 Primo’s Hill Pinot
Noir (Carneros). A terrific Pinot Noir, from a
winery compiling a serious track record. Grown on the
Napa side of Carneros, the wine shows classic Primo’s
Hill character, with the blackberry pie, cola, mushu
plum and sandalwood flavors accented by a little more
acidity than usual. Defined by elegance and complexity, it’s an ager, although it’s beautiful now right out of
the bottle. Should easily develop through 2015. —S.H.
Price: $50
abv: 14.4%
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Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Made from eight vineyards located throughout this sprawling appellation, this wine
showcases the art of the blend, and is an extraordinary
achievement for its sheer opulence. Offers wave after
wave of Pinot flavor, with superb tannins and mouthwatering acidity. The fact that this is Merry Edwards’s least
expensive Pinot Noir is amazing and makes it a special
buy. Production was 2,370 cases. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $36
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Native 9 2009 Rancho Ontiveros Vineyards Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). For
full review see page 4.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $64
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Pessagno 2009 Four Boys Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). You
know you’re dealing with a great Pinot Noir when it’s
this delicious right out of the bottle, yet will age. This
wine is enormously rich and sweet in cherries, blackberries, blueberries and cola, a wine that almost everyone
will find delicious. Yet with thick tannins and brisk acidity, it has the protective structure to evolve over at least
six years, and possibly longer. —S.H.
Price: $55
abv: 14.9%
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Rusack 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Sta.
Rita Hills). Who wouldn’t love this Pinot Noir?
It’s zippy in acidity and ripe in briary raspberry and
cherry fruit, with spicy, smoky oak complexity. Really
defines the luxurious silkiness of the appellation. The
grapes are mostly from the Fiddlestix Vineyard, with
the balance hailing from Rio Vista Vineyard. Drink now2015. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $40
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Samsara 2009 Kessler-Haak Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Just wonderful, showing the great richness and complexity of a top
Santa Rita Pinot Noir. Partial whole-cluster fermentation gives the wine a spicy earthiness and full-bodied
tannins, yet the underlying red berry and cherry fruit
shines through. Showing well now and over the next six
years. —S.H.
Price: $46
abv: 14.4%
93
Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Heritage
Selection Estate Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). For full review see page 4.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $48
93
Marimar Estate 2008 Earthquake Block
Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). For full review see page 4.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $47
93
Marimar Estate 2008 Stony Block Don
Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 5.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $47
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Melville 2010 Verna’s Estate Pinot Noir
(Santa Barbara County). Ripeness marks
this Pinot. It floods the mouth with jammy raspberries and cherries, brightened with acidity. Seems a bit
straightforward by virtue of sheer dazzle, but it is a superb example of the Santa Rita Hills, at a good price.
Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $26
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Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). Merry Edwards doesn’t just
slap this regional blend together. This is a combination
of her best vineyards. It’s a wonderful wine, dry, balanced and deep in berry, spice, cola and earthy flavors.
In many ways, it’s the consummate Russian River Valley
Pinot Noir. Drink now–2015. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $42
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Morgan 2009 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). Morgan’s Pinot
Noirs tend to be dark, full-bodied and dense. They’re
not for fans of a more delicate interpretation, but winemaker Dan Lee is a master of the big California style.
This ’09, from one of the most famous vineyards in the
Highlands, certainly has heft, packed as it is with cherries, plums, dark chocolate and exotic spices. It’s very
dry, and will pair well with rich dishes such as lamb and
steak. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $50
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Samsara 2009 Melville Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). There’s a barnyardy
funkiness to this Pinot Noir that is frankly fascinating.
Call it Burgundian, but it’s emphatically Californian in
the richness of raspberries and cherries, with their jammy sweet finish. Earthy tannins and brisk acidity guarantee that this wine will age well through 2016. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $48
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Samsara 2009 Rancho La Vina Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Ripe and complex, offering a wealth of cranberry, cherry, cola and
pomegranate fruit flavors, spiced with clove and cinnamon. Silky and tart now, with some furry tannins. Just
lovely, but should develop over the next 6–8 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $46
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Samsara 2009 Turner Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). In youth, this Pinot Noir is
brisk and appealing for its array of raspberry, cherry and
cola fruit. Delicious as it is, it really needs time in the
cellar to let the parts, including hefty tannins, resolve
and come together. Best after 2015. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $42
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Summerland 2008 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). What a pretty, polished Pinot for drinking now. It shows its pedigree in
the silky mouthfeel, brisk acidity and powerful flavors
of persimmons, red plums, cola and dusty exotic spices.
You can taste the briny minerals of this cool coastal appellation, making it a real wine of terroir. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
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Bailiwick 2009 Borderline Pinot Noir
(Marin County). So savory and easy to like,
you might miss the complexity, but it’s there. Offers
flashy raspberry and cherry pie, red plum, pie spice and
sandalwood flavors, packed into firm but gentle tannins,
and brightened with crisp acidity. The finish is entirely
dry despite all the sweet fruit. Really defines the modern coastal California style, even if there’s no particular
Marin County signature. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $34
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Bailiwick 2009 Silver Pines Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Mountain). Tight and
brittle now, with acidity and dryness starring. The thing
to understand about this Pinot is that it’s quite modest
in alcohol and understated in flavor, showing rhubarb,
pomegranate and cherry Lifesaver flavors with a minerally edge. Elegant now, it should develop over the next
six years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $44
92
John Tyler 2008 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 6.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
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Mistress 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). There’s an earthy note of cola that
grounds the ripe cherry and pomegranate fruit, giving it
depth and complexity. Made from one of the vineyards
closest to the coast, this wine provides plenty of Pinot
character. Thick tannins and vital acidity suggest aging
until at least 2013. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $42
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Pessagno 2009 Idyll Times Vineyard Pinot Noir (San Benito County). San Benito
County is just north of Monterey, and subject to similar
coastal influence. This Pinot shows the cool climate in
its zesty acidity and firm tannins, as well as the dryness
that accompanies the fruit. Those flavors include cherries, cola and pomegranates. It’s a complex wine that
will do interesting things over the next six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $40
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Summerland 2008 Solomon Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). With
a translucent ruby color and a light, silky body, this Pinot captivates for its ethereal mouthfeel. But there’s
nothing light about the flavors, which are cherries, cola,
pomegranates, bacon and the sweet, spicy vanilla of
toasted oak. It is, in a word, delicious. Seems at its best
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
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Bailiwick 2009 Michaud Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Chalone). A dry, tannic young Pinot
Noir. It’s not a big, gushy wine, but comes down more
on the elegant side, with low alcohol and an earthiness
to the cherry and cola fruit. You want to age it for at
least five years, to let it show its stuff. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $44
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Garnet 2010 Rodgers Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This vineyard has
been source to wildly variable Pinot Noirs, but Garnet,
which is now a brand from B.R. Cohn, has succeeded
in wresting a fine Pinot Noir. It shows the dry silkiness
and acidity you want from a coastal Pinot, with elaborate, oak-influenced cherry, cola and pomegranate flavors that finish dry and spicy. Enjoy it over the next five
years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
yard has been quite a successful source of grapes to several wineries, including Blessing. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 14.3%
90
Foursight 2009 Charles Vineyard Clone
5 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Shows the
strong acidity of Foursight’s new Pinot Noirs, but also
considerable deepth and lushness. Once the mouth adjusts to the acids, it’s able to appreciate waves of cherries, blackberries, currants and cola, while 50% new oak
adds rich notes of smoke and burnt butter. A lovely, dry
and impressive wine, fine now with an hour or two in
the decanter. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $49
90
Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full
review see page 8.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $34
90
Longoria 2010 Lovely Rita Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). This low production blend of
Longoria’s estate Fe Ciega Vineyard and Bien Nacido
Vineyard seems to be comprised of grapes that didn’t
make the winery’s highest cut. It’s quite a nice wine, dry,
brisk and pure in cherries, cola, spices and sandalwood,
but it doesn’t seem like an ager, so enjoy now. —S.H.
Price: $32
abv: 13.8%
90
Melville 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita
Hills). Rich and ripe in berry jam and spice flavors, this Pinot is enjoyable now for its silky texture and
bright acidity. At the same time, it should develop bottle
notes over the next six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
Rusack 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). A nice evocation of Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir, showing rich raspberry, cherry, persimmon
and crushed dark spice flavors, framed in a silky texture.
Produced from the Solomon Hills and Sierra Madre
vineyards. Now–2016. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $36
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Pessagno 2009 Lucia Highlands Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands).
For the price, this is one of the best Santa Lucia Highlands Pinots of the vintage. Just a lovely wine to drink
now, showing fine dryness, acidity and silkiness. The flavors are of rose hip tea, cola, sour cherry candy, toasty
oak, tobacco and exotic spices. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $28
90
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Rodney Strong 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). For full review see
page 7.
abv: 15%
Price: $40
90
Bailiwick 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Defines Russian River Valley Pinot Noir in the dryness, silkiness and full-bodied richness, with flavors of cherries, pomegranates, raspberries
and slightly underripe persimmons. This complex wine
grows better as it warms in the glass. Drink over the
next 2–3 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $36
90
Blessing 2009 Split Rock Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast). Shows the silky dryness and elegance you want in a Pinot Noir, with brisk
acidity framing sour cherry, pomegranate and persimmon fruit flavors. Really grows on you as it sits in the
glass, warming up and developing complexity. The vine-
Rusack 2009 Solomon Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Here’s a deliciously ripe, forward Pinot. It’s made in an accessible
style, with flashy raspberry, strawberry and oak flavors.
Yet it exhibits classic Pinot elegance. Could turn into
something special in 6–7 years, if you’re a gambler.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $45
Coghlan 2009 La Encantada Sapphire Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Distinctly Californian in style, this is a soft, big, fruity Pinot Noir, packed
with cherry, berry, cola and spice flavors that sink deep
into the palate and last long on the finish. It’s certainly
rich, but lacks some finesse and elegance. Drink now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $47
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Coghlan 2009 Rio Vista Vineyard 115 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). A bit of an outlier
for Pinot Noir, with a green, minty streak that cuts right
through the cherries and pomegranates. With it comes
stimulating acidity, but you have to wonder about the
wine’s long-term prospects. Drink soon. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $37
89
Cutruzzola 2009 Gloria Pinot Noir (San
Luis Obispo County). Very rich and flamboyant, this could only have grown in a New World climate.
In fact it’s from a coastal vineyard. Ripe and expressive
in raspberries, cherries, sandalwood and spices, the
WineMag.com | 55
richness is balanced with crisp acidity. Drink over the
next three years for freshness. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
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Samsara 2010 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills).
The raspberry, cherry and vanilla flavors of this
Pinot Noir taste sweet, giving it a delicious pie-filling
richness. Crisp acidity fortunately provides balancing
structure. It’s a flashy young wine for drinking over the
next five years. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
88
Foursight 2009 Charles Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Anderson Valley). Acidity marks this
wine, making it sharp in the mouth, while some greenness gives it a flavor of mint jelly. Nonetheless, there’s
some fancy cherry and raspberry fruit. A fragile wine
that seems at its best now, so drink soon. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $46
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J. Wilkes 2007 Solomon Hills Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Shows
jammy but somewhat simple cherry candy and mint flavors, the kind that come from young vines. Plenty of tart
acidity scours the mouth, creating balance to the fruit.
Ultimately, this is a Pinot Noir for drinking soon. —S.H.
Price: $42
abv: 14%
88
Ketcham Estate 2009 Ketcham Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Lots of
ripe, spicy fruit in this Pinot, marked by waves of black
cherries, Dr. Pepper cola, plums, tobacco and sandalwood. It’s brisk in acidity, a wine that gets the tastebuds
whistling. Seems at its best now, so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $48
88
Summerland 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). Summerland’s new crop of Pinot Noirs is quite good, and while this is their least expensive and lightest, it shows their signature. Crisp and
silky, its cherry, spice and sandalwood flavors make for
nice drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
87
Manzoni 2010 Home Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). A big wine, ripe
and explosive in fruit. Maybe too fruity, almost a bomb.
Raspberries and cherries, sweetened with oak, dominate. Could use greater subtlety and restraint, not to
mention grounding earthiness. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $26
87
One Hope 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir
(Carneros). A little heavy for Pinot Noir. Almost like Grenache, with deliciously sweet, full-bodied
flavors of cherry compote and raspberry tart, sprinkled
with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Give it a good decant and drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
87
Pessagno 2009 Central Avenue Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Monterey). A nice Pinot Noir to
drink now. It’s bone dry and somewhat austere, showing only modest cherry, pomegranate and cola flavors
that are marked by rich tannins and zesty acidity. But it’s
very elegant. —S.H.
Price: $21
abv: 14.4%
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Summerland 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). This tight,
brittle Pinot Noir isn’t giving much pleasure now. It’s
distinguished in structure, with a fine, silky mouthfeel,
brisk acidity and a pleasurable dusting of tannins. But
it’s a bit short on fruit. Give it a good airing and drink
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
85
Francis Ford Coppola 2010 Votre Santé
Pinot Noir (California). A rather ordinary
wine, dry and tart in acids, with modest cherry, tea and
clove flavors, plus a little unripeness. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
85
Summerland 2010 Vintners Select Pinot
Noir (Santa Barbara County). Heavy and
dull, with a soft texture framing cherry, berry and spice
flavors. Pinot’s famously silky texture is there, but the
wine isn’t offering much else. —S.H.
Price: $35
abv: 14%
83
Castle Rock 2010 California Cuvée Pinot Noir (California). Pretty ordinary stuff,
although it does communicate Pinot’s basic message of
dryness and silkiness. Shows modest cherry and spice
flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
86
Blair Fox 2009 THompson Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Richness defines this ripe Syrah. It dazzles with blackberry and
cherry jam, dark chocolate and exotic spice flavors,
while firm tannins provide supportive structure. Oak
adds additional tannins and a smoky, toasty coat. Drink
now and through 2015. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $42
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Fritz 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For some reason, Fritz held this wine back
eight months later than their very fine 2009 Reserve
Pinot. It’s a solid wine, silky and pure, but it’s a little too
sweet in raspberries and cherries, like a granola candy
bar. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $30
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56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
Forenzo 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). Soft, simple and fruity, but with its
silky texture and rich raspberry and cherry fruit and
spice flavors, it’s pretty good for the price, showing authentic Pinot character. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $15
SYRAH/SHIRAZ
Leese-Fitch 2009 Pinot Noir (California).
A little on the soft side, with candied raspberry,
cherry and cola flavors, but at this price, it’s a decent
starter Pinot Noir for those who are curious about this
red-hot variety but don’t want to spend a bundle. Enjoy
the silkiness and spice. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
Foursight 2009 Charles Vineyard Zero
New Oak Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley).
Brisk in acidity and bone dry, this Pinot is elegant, although it falls short on opulence. The flavors are of sour
cherry candy and cola. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $38
Ketcham Estate 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). A little rugged around the edges, with jagged tannins that emphasize the acidity. But
it’s dry and balanced, and you’ll find ripe flavors of cherries, pomegranates, red licorice and toast. Drink now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $38
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MacRostie 2008 Wildcat Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). There’s
something off in the aroma, which is herbal and peppery. Turns richer once you take a sip, with pleasantly
dry, crisp cherry candy, white pepper and oak flavors.
The vineyard is in a cool site, and it tastes like the grapes
were not fully ripe. A disappointment after so many
great bottlings from MacRostie. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 14.2%
87
ous for a Pinot Noir, almost like Grenache, it’s so fullbodied and rich in cherries, mocha, anise and spices.
Delicious in its way, but lacks Pinot finesse and subtlety.
Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
Mario Perelli-Minetti 2008 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). With a nice, silky texture and
flavors of cherries, pomegranates and cola, this Pinot
has plenty to like. It loses a few points, though, for unripeness that mutes the fruit and makes the finish sharp.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $31
Sebastiani 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). Light bodied and modest in flavor,
with lots of acidity. You find yourself wishing there was
more in the way of fruit. Still, it’s pretty good for the
price, with a nice, silky texture. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $18
86
Whetstone 2008 Bella Vigna Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Big and ponder-
93
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Samsara 2009 Melville Vineyard Syrah
(Sta. Rita Hills). Rich, extracted and dramatic,
dazzling in blackberry, currant, anise and smoky aromas
and flavors. It’s a big, tannic, flamboyant young wine,
just at the start of its journey. Will hold well through
2015 and possibly beyond. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 14.9%
92
Fess Parker 2009 Rodney’s Vineyard
Syrah (Santa Barbara County). For full review see page 5.
abv: 15.7%
Price: $49
92
Melville 2010 Verna’s Estate Syrah (Santa Barbara County). This fruity Syrah is rich
in cherries, raspberries, white chocolate and spices. Syrah hardly gets more flamboyant. And yet its structure is
firm and pleasant. Drink now–2016. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $26
92
Rusack 2009 Ballard Canyon Estate Reserve Syrah (Santa Barbara County). This
rich Syrah leaves little to the imagination. It’s dramatic
in blackberry and cherry fruit and exotic spices, sweetened with new oak. Delicious now and for the next few
years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
91
Pessagno 2009 Manzoni Estate Vineyard
Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands). What a
nice Syrah for drinking now. It shows that firm structure
of Highlands reds, with fine acidity and dusty tannins,
and is rich in blackberry, currant, licorice, bacon, black
pepper and cedar flavors. Too bad more Syrahs aren’t
this good. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $35
90
Novy 2009 Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands). Robust and fruity, this big Syrah floods
the mouth with blackberries, currants, bacon and black
pepper. It’s a delicious wine, wrapped into firm tannins,
and ideal with a nice charbroiled steak, with salt and
pepper to echo the wine’s spices. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $27
90
Samsara 2009 Turner Vineyard Syrah
(Sta. Rita Hills). Lots of flashy blackberry and
blueberry fruit in this rather forward Syrah. It’s also
quite tannic and spicy, the result of 100% whole cluster fermentation. With its fairly high alcohol, it has a
mouth-warming fullness. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $40
89
Blair Fox 2009 Fox Family Vineyard Syrah
(Santa Barbara County). This is a rich, ripe
Syrah, with deep, long-lasting chocolate, blackberry jam
and oak flavors. Impresses for its sheer razzle dazzle.
Probably best over the next few years. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $45
89
Cakebread 2009 Syrah (Napa Valley).
Made from Carneros-grown grapes, this Syrah
strikes the palate as rather candied in blackberries and
cherries. It’s smooth in the mouth, and the oak brings a
pretty layer of smoky cedar. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $55
89
Q 2010 Syrah (Sonoma County). For full
review see page 10. Best Buy.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $12
88
Dogwood 2008 Syrah (Dry Creek Valley).
This is a dry, robust Syrah, packed with blackberry, blueberry, anise, bacon and pepper flavors, and
wrapped into sturdy tannins. Give it a decant, and drink
with game or Mexican beef dishes. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Samsara 2009 Verna’s Vineyard Syrah
(Santa Barbara County). This Syrah is remarkably ripe in blackberry, blueberry and cherry fruit,
with a bite of acidity. It feels fine and vital in the mouth.
Give it a brief decant. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $32
88
Whetstone 2008 Phoenix Ranch Syrah
(Russian River Valley). A fine Syrah, dry
and rich in blackberry, currant, dark chocolate, grilled
meat, spice and cedar flavors. It’s pretty firm in tannins
and acids, though, making it hard and chewy. Difficult
to predict its future, but an educated guess suggests it’s
not an ager. —S.H.
abv: 15.7%
Price: $55
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Black Box 2009 Shiraz (California). Robust, peppery, dry and fruity, just what an inexpensive Shiraz should be. Easy to like for its array of
blackberries, spices and cedar. A great value in a barbecue-style wine. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25/3 L
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Manzoni 2009 Home Vineyard Syrah
(Santa Lucia Highlands). Huge flavors of
jammy blackberries and cherries dominate this Syrah,
with a coating of sweet, caramelized oak. It’s yummy,
but not especially complex. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $26
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Radar 2009 Syrah (California). Thick, soft
and sweetly extracted in blackberries and licorice, this Syrah can best be described as rustic. It’s not
bad, just simple. —S.H.
Price: $15
abv: 13.9%
PETITE SIRAH
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Rutherford Grove 2008 Spring Creek
Vineyard Petite Sirah (Napa Valley).
Here’s a big, thick, tannic, ripe wine, impressive for its
sheer power and fruit. In other words, it’s classic Petite
Sirah. The flavors are just wild, suggesting blackberries,
plums, bacon, orange tea and exotic spices. Absolutely
delicious, with classic Napa balance. Shows why Petite
Sirah has such momentum. Will age easily for at least a
decade. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $37
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Carica 2009 Kick Ranch Petite Sirah (Sonoma County). If you’re sensitive to high alcohol, this wine isn’t for you. If you’re not, it has plenty
to offer in the way of flavor, including raspberries, chocolate and pepper. Turns a bit overripe in the finish, but
not too much. —S.H.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $36
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John Tyler 2008 Bacigalupi Vineyard Petite Sirah (Russian River Valley). Tastes
like it was just bottled, with jammy red fruit, sweet licorice, vanilla and spice flavors and a fresh burst of acidity.
Almost like it’s been frozen in time over the years, but
not likely an ager. Drink up with barbecue, ham or pork
chops. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $58
ZINFANDEL
92
John Tyler 2007 Bacigalupi Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Sweet, soft
and delicious, this is a rich Zinfandel to savor with barbeque. It’s tasty in blackberry, cherry and blueberry
fruit, with a coating of smoky oak. Earns extra points for
a long, exotically spicy finish. Great now and over the
next four years. —S.H.
Price: $38
abv: 14.8%
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Fritz 2009 Estate Zinfandel (Dry Creek
Valley). A delicious Zinfandel, one of Fritz’s
best in years. It shows Zin’s robust, briary character,
with a peppery, brambly mouthfeel. Yet the long, cool
vintage has resulted in sweetly ripe flavors of wild berries. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
90
Madrigal 2008 Barberis Family Reserve
Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). This is one of
those Petite Sirahs that will benefit from a little time in
the cellar. Even though it’s made in the modern style,
with softer, sweeter tannins than the variety has shown
the past, it’s still a bruiser. Yet with a gigantic core of
blackberries, blueberries and chocolate, it should negotiate the next 5–6 years easily. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $65
Peachy Canyon 2010 Mustard Creek Zinfandel (Paso Robles). A soft, exceptionally
ripe Zinfandel, sweet in what tastes like residual sugar,
although the sweetness also comes from very high alcohol. The flavors are pure Paso Robles, all about black
cherries, raspberries, red plums, red licorice, bacon
and exotic spices. A splash of Petite Sirah brings tannic depth and weight. This is a good example of Peachy
Canyon’s style. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $36
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Jacob Franklin 2009 Hayne Vineyard
Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). The vineyard,
which is in St. Helena, certainly yielded grapes that
were ripe, to judge by this wine’s flavors. It’s gigantic in
berries, cherries, mocha and spices that are jammy and
sweet. The best thing about it are the tannins, which are
smooth and complex. Give this flashy young Petite Sirah
a couple years to integrate and mellow. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $65
90
Jaffurs 2010 Thompson Vineyard Petite
Sirah (Santa Barbara County). Rich, ripe
and oaky, this Petite Sirah charms with flashy blackberry, cherry and dark chocolate flavors that are opulent
through the long finish. The vineyard is in the Los Alamos region. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $34
Uvaggio 2010 Primitivo (Lodi). If only
more California Primitivo could be made in this
style - soft, lower in alcohol, modestly showing its fruit there would be more converts among Zin fanatics, who
would be wowed by the subtle black cherry and licorice
flavors and dry finish, minimally aged in oak. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
90
Yorba 2007 Shake Ridge Vineyards Zinfandel (Amador County). Yorba is doing the
world of Zin lovers a huge favor by holding its wines in
bottle for longer than most producers, and what you get
for all that waiting is a wine ready to drink that’s still got
plenty of structure and ageability. This Zin shows great
depth, with subdued fruit and darker flavors of plum
and coffee allowed to shine, rounded out by an intensity
of spice. —V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $28
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Cedarville Vineyard 2009 Estate Zinfandel (El Dorado). Cedarville is loved for its
Syrah and Grenache but it can expertly handle its estate Zinfandel too—grown at 2,500-foot elevation—
This smoky, raspberry-wrapped, silky wine is full of big,
round mountain tannins yet somehow manages to be
light on its feet on the finish. Have it with sticky ribs.
—V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $22
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Leese-Fitch 2009 Zinfandel (California).
For full review see page 10. Best Buy.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $13
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Peachy Canyon 2010 Especiale Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Zinfandel is joined by
Mourvèdre and a few other minor grape varieties in this
overtly sweet, high alcohol wine. It’s soft and glyceriney, with cherry, blueberry, dark chocolate and pepper
flavors. You have to give it credit for being true to its
style. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 15.5%
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Peachy Canyon 2010 Mustang Springs
Zinfandel (Paso Robles). High alcohol gives
this wine a glyceriney sweetness as well as heat, a prickly mouthfeel boosted by plenty of black pepper. Yet
it’s softly delicious, in the Peachy Canyon way, with an
enormous array of blackberries, chocolate and bacon.
Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $36
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Peachy Canyon 2010 Snow Zinfandel
(Paso Robles). This is Peachy Canyon’s 100%
Zinfandel, unblended, and it’s a true expression of the
variety, Paso Robles style. That means it’s softly voluptuous and almost to the point of overripeness, with
blackberry, raisin and spice flavors. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
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Peachy Canyon 2010 Vortex Zinfandel
(Paso Robles). Made in the Peachy Canyon
style, this Zin, which contains some Petite Sirah, is very
high in alcohol. It’s sweet, hot and soft. The blueberry,
blackberry and chocolate flavors are almost in dessert
wine territory, but it’s a very good example of its genre.
—S.H.
Price: $36
abv: 15.6%
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Kirkland Signature 2009 Grandmere Old
Vine Zinfandel (Amador County). Aromatically, this wine takes some time to open, but in taste it’s
structured, pretty and very floral, with smooth lines of
cherry and red raspberry that defy its high alcohol level.
Made by Renwood Winery in Amador County, it’s a very
good value. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $11
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Peachy Canyon 2010 Incredible Red Zinfandel (Paso Robles). A useful Zin, rich and
sweet and savory. Blended for complexity with Syrah
and Petite Sirah, it’s satisfying in black cherry, red licorice and cola flavors, sprinkled with black pepper and
baking spices. Easy to drink with barbecue, burgers and
such. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $12
58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
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Ruby Hill Winery 2009 Peacock Patch
Reserve Zinfandel (Livermore Valley). A
big Zin with juicy dark cherry and blackberry jammyness and a slight hint of cedar and clove. This wine is a
chance to open but is a nice showpiece for Ruby Hill’s
love of and prowess with big, ripe Zins. —V.B.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $25
del, robust in blackberry, raisin and chocolate flavors,
wrapped into firm tannins. With its sweet finish, it will
be a good companion to tomato-based barbecue. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $18
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Campus Oaks 2008 Old Vine Zinfandel
(Lodi). For full review see page 10.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
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Sebastiani 2009 Zinfandel (Dry Creek
Valley). A rich, flashy Zinfandel, packed with
spicy cherry, blackberry, cocoa and pepper flavors.
Shows plenty of Dry Creek character in the firm tannins
and briary, brambly mouthfeel. A sweet finish suggests
pairing it with slightly sweet dishes, like ribs or chicken
slathered in barbeque sauce. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $24
Pessagno 2009 Idyll Times Vineyard Zinfandel (San Benito County). Roll out richly
sauced barbecue for this lusty Zinfandel. It’s a big wine,
full-bodied and dry, with spicy flavors of briary wild berries, tobacco and green herbs. It’s hard to like on its
own, but sweet meats and hard cheeses will help soften
it. —S.H.
Price: $21
abv: 14.7%
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Tortoise Creek 2010 The Chelonian Zinfandel (Lodi). Clements Hills is an up and
coming subregion within Lodi and the grapes for this
wine have been sourced from three Clements Hills
vineyards. The wine has its rustic side but is also savory,
with dark plum and berry fruit flavors and a toasty note
at the end. The Chelonian Research Foundation, for
which this wine is named, is devoted to the conservation of turtles and tortoises, and portions of the wine’s
proceeds will be donated. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $11
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Earthquake 2010 Zinfandel (Lodi). No
doubt Michael-David is going for a certain style
with Earthquake, describing it as “over the top and shattering to the veins.” Indeed. This Lodi Zin will knock
your socks and several other pieces of clothing off with
its smoky, greasy, hot and sweet berry pie flavors, with
a side of bacon to boot. True to its style, this is one very
big boy. —V.B.
abv: 16%
Price: $26
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Gnarly Head 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel
(Lodi). This majority Zin with 18% Petite Sirah
is a popular, widely available choice for many Zin loves.
Its concentrated fists of sweetness—vanilla and cherrybased mostly—are hits with many consumers. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
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Peachy Canyon 2010 Old Bailey Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Too sweet by far, this is
almost a dessert wine, with overripe raisin and prune
flavors alongside the blackberries. Sugar reprises on the
finish, making it a little cloying. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $36
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Perry Creek 2009 Zinman Zinfandel (El
Dorado). For full review see page 9.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $14
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Quackenbush 2009 Estate Zinfandel
(Lake County). A good, everyday Zinfan-
Darcie Kent Vineyards 2009 DeMayo
Vineyard Zinfandel (Livermore Valley). A
field blend from the DeMayo Vineyard, believed to be
mostly Zin and Petite Sirah. The resulting wine doesn’t
show much of its provenance or history, just a smidgen
of spice but only fruit and modest of flavor. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
Peterson 2009 Old School Zinfandel (Dry
Creek Valley). Made in the winery’s style,
which is ripe, full-bodied and rustic. This one’s extracted in jammy blackberries, plums and currants, with
some raisins on the finish, which is dry and spicy. —S.H.
Price: $18
abv: 14.2%
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Salvatore Principe 2010 Blue Groove
Zinfandel (Lodi). A young, plummy Zin that’s
lightly sweet, with blackberry jam, vanilla and caramel
notes. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $13
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XYZin 2009 Vine Age Series Zinfandel
(California). A simple, rustic Zinfandel, sweet
and fruity in cherry jam, red licorice, bacon and spice
flavors, wrapped into robust tannins. The grapes were
sourced from Sonoma, Mendocino and Lodi. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $16
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Peterson 2009 Bradford Mountain Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Even if
you don’t mind high alcohol in a Zinfandel, you might
find yourself reacting to this one. It’s frankly hot, with
a chili pepper burn to the berry fruit. It’s also overripe,
with a sweet, Porty taste. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $35
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Peterson 2009 Bernier Zinyard Zinfandel
(Dry Creek Valley). Unbalanced, with lots of
acidity, hard tannins and raisiny flavors alongside green
ones. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $27
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Peterson 2009 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Vegetal and a little unclean, with deficient
acidity that makes the fruit tastes insipid and sweet.
Meanwhile, high alcohol makes it all hot. —S.H.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $24
BARBERA
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Yorba 2008 Shake Ridge Vineyards Barbera (Amador County). A very drinkable,
densely lush Barbera that’s been given proper time to
age and tame its tannins. This wine has dense plum flavors and accompanying layers of spice and earth, a very
nice example of mountain-grown California Barbera.
—V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $28
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Lava Cap 2009 Estate Barbera (El Dorado). A soft, robust Barbera with dark cherry flavors from beginning to end, and a pleasant level of minerality that levels off on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $25
from Lodi, and Graciano has proven to like Lodi very
much. In Fenestra’s hands this varietal is soft and round,
perfectly fine drinking, a taste of Bing cherry in liquid
form. —V.B.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $25
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Zucca 2009 Barbera (Amador County).
A simple Barbera with not much in the way of
aromas and just a slight amount of earthy berry flavors.
—V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $32
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TEMPRANILLO
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Upland Estates 2009 Gewürztraminer
(Snipes Mountain District). Gewürztraminer is a great success at this Snipes Mountain winery,
here done in a full-bodied, fleshy style that discards any
hint of floral soap. Vanilla bean, lemon cream, graham
cracker and a thoroughly yummy core of ripe fruit mark
this as nonclassic, but incredibly delicious. Best Buy.
—P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $12
DESSERT WINES
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Twisted Oak 2008 The Spaniard (Calaveras County). It may just be that this 84%
Tempranillo blend (plus 12% Graciano, 4% Garnacha)
needs some more time in bottle to develop, in which
case it will only get better. In the meantime it has undeniable juicy, red fruit, grippy tannins that are just starting to mellow and is overall a very savory and delicious
wine. Fermented as a field blend, The Spaniard mingled for months in all-new French oak and would go
gangbusters with lamb or other red meats. —V.B.
Price: $49
abv: 14.3%
90
Yorba 2007 Shake Ridge Vineyards Tempranillo (Amador County). Yorba’s Tempranillo is very masculine, briary and tannic, packed with
earthy baked plum, raspberry and dark chocolate mocha, with a slight trace of black licorice. Concentrated
and lush, it would stand its own against many a big slab
of meat. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $38
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Longoria 2009 Clover Creek Vineyard
Tempranillo (Santa Ynez Valley). Pinot
Noir specialist Rick Longoria continues to tackle this
difficult variety, which may be the hardest to master in
California. His results are inconsistent. The ’09 is a very
good wine, bone dry and dusty, with tobacco and cherry
flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $36
OTHER RED WINES
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Twisted Oak 2009 Torcido Garnacha (Calaveras County). What a wine. It tries to intimidate. At first, by its bottle size and alcohol level,
but in the glass this 100% Garnacha is like a purring
kitten—well a purring 20-pound Maine Coon cat, joyous in its pretty red fruit, and its earthy, meaty, vanilla
and cinnamon toast range of goodness. All lush, Twisted
Oak’s Torcido is, like a retro soap opera, brave and beautiful. —V.B.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $32
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Samsara 2009 Larner Vineyard Grenache
(Santa Ynez Valley). A ripe red wine, brimming with cherry fruit, and heightened in texture by
acidity. Not particularly complex, but rich and satisfying, making it one of the better Grenaches from California. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $36
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Fenestra 2009 Graciano (Lodi). Livermore
Valley-based Fenestra loves to source fun stuff
Mica Cellars 2010 Babcock VIneyard
Charbono (Suisun Valley). This is a tiny
production Charbono that’s light and in balance, with
flavors and aromas of raspberry, red cherry and mushrooms right out of the dirt. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
Rusack 2009 Sangiovese (Santa Ynez
Valley). Very ripe and flashy, but a little too
sweet. Shows sugary raspberry and cherry jam flavors,
with lots of zippy acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
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Terre Rouge 2008 Muscat a Petits Grains
Vin Doux Naturel (Shenandoah Valley).
Bill Easton doesn’t make this dessert wine every year,
so when he does, especially of this caliber, it’s a good
time to pick up some of this deliciously balanced dessert delight. It’s a very nuanced rendering of crisp, clean
peach, pear and honey flavors that would go well with
fruit desserts or anything involving almond paste. Best
Buy. —V.B.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $15/375 ml
93
Quady 2010 Essensia Orange Muscat
(California). For full review see page 5.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $25
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Quady 2010 Elysium Black Muscat (California). For full review see page 6.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $21
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Bonterra 2010 Bartolucci Vineyard Muscat (Lake County). Bonterra is offering up
some serious yumminess here, from organic grapes
grown in Lake County. The sweet wine opens with a
sweet floral nose and a lot of minerality graduating into
a concentrated thickness of golden honey-graham flavors. —V.B.
abv: 9%
Price: $16/375 ml
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Terre Rouge 2003 ROX Monarch Mine
Vineyard Roussanne (Sierra Foothills).
Made in an oxidized style like a Sherry from Spain, ROX
is meant to be drunk as an apéritif with raw oysters or
hard, stinky cheeses and cured meats. An interesting
almond-flavored take on Sierra Foothills-grown Roussanne grapes for sure. —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $20/500 ml
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Martin Ray 2008 Dessert Wine (California). Very sweet, but the raspberry and cherry
fruit is thin, making the wine ultimately unsatisfying.
—S.H.
abv: 16.8%
Price: $18
WASHINGTON
WHITE WINES
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Poet’s Leap 2010 Riesling (Columbia
Valley). For full review see page 5. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $20
91
Robert O. Smasne 2008 Francis Reserve
White (Columbia Valley). Two-thirds Chardonnay, 22% Viognier, and the rest Sauvignon Blanc—
an unusual blend that works well. Medium gold and
showing the color and scents of oak aging, this bigboned white runs the gamut from apple to pear to
peach, soaked in Bourbon barrel flavors, with a rich,
creamy finish. —P.G.
Price: $38
abv: 13.5%
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Stottle 2008 Viognier (Walla Walla Valley). From Dwelley vineyard grapes, this barrel-fermented Viognier offers appealing toasty fruit
coated in buttered nut goodness. Meyer lemon and
stone fruits, dusted with cinnamon, give it a French
pastry sort of finish, though it is completely dry. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $24
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Airfield Estates 2010 Lightning White
(Yakima Valley). A screwcapped, Rhône-style
white, blends 43% Viognier, 39% Roussanne and 18%
Marsanne in a tightly wound, fresh, lively wine. Spicy
apple and pear fruit flavors run into a medium long finish with some near-term aging potential. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $20
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Upland Estates 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
(Snipes Mountain District). This opens soft,
even a bit flat, and should be served chilled for best
showing. With some breathing time tropical fruit flavors
come up, ripe and fleshy, with a butterscotch finish and
a bit of heat. Best for near-term drinking. —P.G.
Price: $15
abv: 13.5%
SPARKLING WINES
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Treveri Cellars NV Brut (Columbia Valley). A Chardonnay-based sparkler, this rich
and concentrated wine has a luscious mix of apricot,
peach and papaya fruit flavors in a creamy, textural setting. Exceptional length and development in the glass,
which keeps bringing in nuances such as vanilla and
pepper. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $14
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Treveri Cellars NV Demi-Sec Gewürztraminer (Columbia Valley). A sweetly floral nose wraps around you with the intensity of the
WineMag.com | 59
Gewürztraminer grape, suggesting orange, perfume
and spice. It’s sweet enough to serve with a fruit-based
dessert, though not sugary in any way. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $17
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Treveri Cellars NV Extra Brut (Columbia
Valley). Treveri is a new Washington state sparkling wine producer that offers a full lineup of traditional method bubbly. This Extra Brut has clean, tart flavors
of melon and citrus, fresh and crisply defined. —P.G.
abv: NA
Price: $14
CABERNETS & BLENDS
95
Dunham 2007 XIII Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). For full review see page
3. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
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Dusted Valley 2008 V.R. Special Cabernet
Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Pure Cabernet Sauvignon, deep and sappy, with the dark, licorice and coffee-infused complexity of Walla Walla’s best
bottles. Sharp and young, with a potent, liquorous finish, this explosive bottle of cassis-driven fruit should cellar well for a decade or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
Price: $53
abv: 15.3%
92
Dunham 2008 Lewis Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $75
92
JM Cellars 2009 Tre (Columbia Valley). A
slight name change in 2009 for what previously
was labeled Tre Fanciulli. It is still a blend of old vine
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah, clean and pure
with pretty cherry fruit. It’s focused and full-bodied, a
bit blocky, but perfectly balanced and drinking nicely
already. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $45
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er. Tannins are round, almost silky, and the wine fades
in a graceful finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $42
91
Robert O. Smasne 2009 Carl Reserve
(Columbia Valley). This Rhône-style red
blend plays out broadly across the full palate, filling the
mouth with tangy flavors of mixed berries and plums.
Generously applied oak brings on a wash of baking spices, coconut and cinnamon, giving a sweetness to the
moderate tannins. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $68
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Smasne Cellars 2008 County Line Red
(Columbia Valley). A standout in a flight of
more expensive wines, this five-grape blend leans heavily on the Bordeaux varietals, with a bit of Syrah as well.
Firm and complex, its black cherry, cassis and plum fruit
flavors are nicely accented by baking spices and red licorice. The balance is perfect; the finish carries a suggestion of dried leaf. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
Airfield Estates 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). This young winery
has made huge strides with its red wines, as this 100%
Cabernet Sauvignon demonstrates. Young, tight, tart,
and expressive, it takes the cranberry and cassis components from cool-vintage, cool-climate grapes, and turns
them into a complete and complex wine. High acid,
with well-integrated nuances of mushroom, earth, and
smoke. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $25
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JM Cellars 2009 Longevity Red (Columbia Valley). All six Bordeaux grapes—yes, including Carmenère—are in this fruity blend, aged for
21 months in 80% new French oak and 20% once-used
French oak. Plums and cherries, a distinctive whiff of
cola, and highlights of cinnamon spice all come togeth60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2011
Farm Boy 2009 Red (Columbia Valley). A
go-to red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah
and Malbec, Farm Boy is one of Robert Smasne’s many
ventures. A fruity mix of cherries and plums, with wellintegrated streaks of clean earth, milk chocolate, and a
whiff of Bourbon barrel. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
Robert O. Smasne 2008 Owens Reserve
(Columbia Valley). A raisiny and ultraripe
Bordeaux-style blend, two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon.
It has apparently been given a lot of time in heavilytoasted barrels, and the layers of smoke, espresso, cinnamon and tobacco dominate. A wine for those who like
the blockbuster, oaky style. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $75
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Smasne Cellars 2008 Upland Vineyard
Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon (Snipes
Mountain District). This drinks ripe, though the alcohol is under 14%. Deep and chewy flavors of black
cherry and cassis, hinting at raisin and prune, anchor
a substantial wine with muscle and verve. Spicy and
chocolaty, this opens up nicely over the course of several hours. —P.G.
Price: $42
abv: 13.5%
Dusted Valley 2009 Wallywood Red (Columbia Valley). This is a GSM blend—about
two-thirds Syrah—loaded with juicy acidity. The sappy, deep raspberry fruit sinks into the palate, racy and
penetrating. It suggests that this is a wine to cellar for
awhile. At the moment it suddenly hits a hard stop—
a wall of slate and graphite. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $42
black cherry fruit carries a root beer finish. Not that it
isn’t a tasty drink—it is—it’s just less interesting than
before. —P.G.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $53
Lullaby 2008 Lalayee Red (Walla Walla
Valley). This 50-50 Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon blend is soft upon entry, with delicate, pretty fruit
flavors of raspberry and wild plum. Gentle accents hint
at buttery caramel and sweet cracker through a wellbalanced finish. A light touch is evident throughout.
—P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
Airfield Estates 2009 Aviator Red (Yakima Valley). Light and balanced, this five grape
Bordeaux-style blend does not try to overreach. The
fruit is clean and delicate, pale cherry set amidst dried
leaves, tobacco, and muted tannins. Plenty of acid keeps
it lively, but everything is in focus and proportionate.
—P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
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Dusted Valley 2008 Stone Tree Vineyard
BFM Red (Wahluke Slope). This amped-up
vintage of the Merlot-dominated, BFM Bordeaux-style
red tops 15% alcohol, but seems a bit contrived. Aggressive vanilla and tobacco flavors cover up the nuanced
highlights found in past BFM vintages, and the base of
Steppe Cellars 2008 StoneTree Vineyard
(Wahluke Slope). Pretty, supple purple fruits
infuse this interesting blend of Tempranillo, Grenache
and Mourvèdre. No one grape dominates; the flavors
are smoothly integrated and well-matched, with an undercoating of smoke, licorice, pastis and coffee. Nicely
polished tannins. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $28
Stottle 2008 Reserve (Columbia Valley).
An unusual blend of Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and
Barbera, aged two and a half years in French oak, yields
a pleasing wine with light berry fruit anchoring a spicy
center. The barrel notes add toast and cracker, nicely balanced, and there remains a suggestion of yeasty
dough as well. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $34
Dusted Valley 2009 Squirrel Tooth Alice
Red (Columbia Valley). A Rhône-style red
blend, with tart boysenberry and blueberry fruit. Sappy and forward, with light tannins and moderate acidity. —P.G.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $39
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Steppe Cellars 2008 Artemisia (Columbia Valley). A Bordeaux-style blend, this initially hides its fruit in a wash of sharp-toned barrel
scents. Tart berry flavors come in with a hint of sweetness, along with some volatility and heat. The wine
should benefit from further bottle age. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
MERLOT
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Dunham 2008 Lewis Vineyard Merlot
(Columbia Valley). Firm raspberry fruit, tight
and concentrated, is swathed in a generous coat of deliciously toasty oak. Tart and youthful, the wine’s depth
comes through as it breathes open in the glass, adding
licorice, coffee grounds, and buttered nuts to the toasty
finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $75
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Airfield Estates 2009 Merlot (Yakima Valley). This is all Merlot, tight and toasty, with
generous black fruits compacted into a dense core. This
one needs more bottle age, and/or substantial decanting
time, but it shows excellent depth and polish already.
Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $25
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Hightower 2008 Merlot (Columbia Valley). This is 100% Merlot, and all Red Moun-
tain fruit. Ripe plums and cherries are accented with
hints of dried leaves, tobacco, and sweet herb. Baking
spices reflect its 20 months in oak, and the wine has a
soft finish that is ideal for immediate enjoyment. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $25
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Steppe Cellars 2008 Merlot (Columbia
Valley). At first, a rush of front-loaded plum
and blackberry fruit hits the palate, then the flavors
seem to sag a bit entering the midpalate. A wall of stillto-be-resolved oak leads into a hard, astringent, somewhat woody finish. Yet there is a substantial and wellbuilt wine here, waiting to resolve its components into
a more seamless whole. Retasted after being open a full
day, it showed well, suggesting good aging potential.
—P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $28
86
Kirkland Signature 2010 Merlot (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 11. Best
Buy.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $9
SYRAH
94
Dunham 2008 Lewis Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 4.
Cellar Selection.
abv: NA
Price: $75
93
Dusted Valley 2008 Rachis Syrah (Columbia Valley). A new entry in the Dusted
Valley lineup, this offering is co-fermented with Viognier and includes a small amount of Petite Sirah as well.
It shows real depth and power, a concentrated explosion
of boysenberry and black cherry fruit, annotated with
clove and anise. A delicious underpinning of mineral
and graphite anchor the lengthy finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $53
93
JM Cellars 2009 Syrah (Columbia Valley). This wine kept improving in the glass over
a period of hours, and as it did so, the score kept rising.
Initial scents of Bourbon barrel gave way to rich blueberry and black cherry fruit, set in a roasted, potent mix
of darker flavors. Smoke, coffee liqueur, a whiff of stem,
a streak of vanilla, all tightly wound and elevated with
scents of citrus peel. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
93
JM Cellars 2009 Boushey Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley). An elegant showcase for
the Boushey fruit, this new JM Cellars release displays
refined raspberry fruit, coated in silky cocoa and almond butter. Firmly acidic, sleek and racy, it gains complexity and texture through a lingering, tobacco-laden
finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $45
92
Dunham 2009 Syrah (Columbia Valley).
Thick, oaky and loaded with toasty highlights,
this substantial Syrah slathers its fruit in a heavy coat of
caramel, buttered nuts and spice. Delicious and supple,
its naturally juicy acidity keeps the wine lively. With substantial breathing time, boysenberry fruit melds with
streaks of roasted coffee, clove and tobacco. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $35
92
Steppe Cellars 2008 StoneTree Vineyard
Syrah (Wahluke Slope). An unusual and
compelling effort, this opens with lush, generous fruit
flavors of both red and black berries, highlighted with
orange peel. Excellent depth and texture, with a fullbodied middle and palate-pleasing minerality. Gains
complexity through a lingering finish. Editors’ Choice.
—P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $28
90
Dusted Valley 2009 Stained Tooth Syrah
(Columbia Valley). Substantial and muscular,
still quite tight and unyielding, this grudgingly displays
purple fruits in a mix of roasted coffee beans, clove and
black olive. If past releases are any indication, this will
continue to evolve and expand as it gets a bit more bottle time. —P.G.
Price: $32
abv: 15.2%
89
McCrea Cellars 2007 Boushey Grande
Côte Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley).
Round, ripe and quite pretty cherry fruit flavors, showing a hint of loam and a briny note. Tannins have
smoothed out, and the length is better than average.
Score could improve with further bottle age. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $36
89
Smasne Cellars 2008 Block #3 Lawrence Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley).
Tart and juicy, with crisply-rendered berry and plum
fruit flavors. As with all the Smasne wines, the oak is a
large presence, here adding a striking note of clove. The
tannins hint at a slight green streak, but the overall balance is fine. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $32
88
McCrea Cellars 2007 Cuvée Orleans Syrah (Yakima Valley). Dusty and toasty aromas
over sweet plum fruit, with a streak of mocha running
sharply down the center. Svelt and open, yet still sharp
and showing a little bite in the back. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $40
OTHER RED WINES
90
Airfield Estates 2010 Tempranillo (Yakima Valley). Much improved from past efforts,
this firm and fruity Tempranillo has a lush core of boysenberry and black cherry fruit. It’s finished with screwcap, and may require decanting to push it open, but it
will reward your patience with a deep and focused wine
that has some cellar potential. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
90
Smasne Cellars 2009 Upland Vineyard
Grenache (Snipes Mountain District).
Dried leaf and cherry tobacco scents highlight this wellmade Grenache. It includes just a whiff or two of the
classic funk, but the rich black-cherry fruit is the real
star, well-ripened and leading into a clean, lingering finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $30
90
Stottle 2008 Tempranillo (Horse Heaven
Hills). Stottle does an especially good job with
Tempranillo, sourced from the same site as its Nebbiolo. Fruity and fleshy, loaded with bright berry notes, it
reflects its 21 months in barrel in its complex streaks of
spice, chocolate and butterscotch. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $26
89
Stottle 2008 Barbera (Columbia Valley).
Solidly varietal flavors of strawberry and Bing
cherry fruit anchor this well-made, 100% Barbera. The
wine has both depth and polish, with some varietal tartness running through a medium length finish. It makes
a good case for Barbera’s potential in Washington state.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
88
Airfield Estates 2010 Pinot Noir (Yakima
Valley). This has a soft entry, its fruit beginning
to show secondary flavors of bakery pastries. Mulberry
and prune, soft and spicy, make for a pleasing, accessible wine that finishes with a lick of cinnamon. It is already drinking well. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $32
88
Dusted Valley 2009 Stone Tree Vineyard
Mourvèdre (Wahluke Slope). Round and
fruity, with a generous mix of berry and cherry, and no
discernible oak influence, this pleasing Mourvèdre lets
the fruit be the star. Nicely balanced and drinking well
already, it carries a hint of mineral/metal in the finish.
—P.G.
abv: 15%
Price: $39
88
Steppe Cellars 2008 StoneTree Vineyard
Malbec (Wahluke Slope). It drinks bigger
than the listed 14% alcohol, but remains all in proportion. Tangy cherry and plum fruit flavors are wrapped
in spice, cinnamon especially. A coffee scent carries
through on the palate, infusing the finish. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
88
Smasne Cellars 2008 Phinny Hill Vineyard Petit Verdot (Horse Heaven Hills).
Dark and chocolaty, with grainy tannins under deep cassis and black cherry fruit. Full-bodied and chewy, with
coffee grounds and spices filling in the finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $35
86
Smasne Cellars 2008 Phinny Hill Vineyard Malbec (Horse Heaven Hills). From a
well-regarded site in the Horse Heaven Hills, this pure
Malbec is clean and well-proportioned, but a bit on the
simple side. Plain red fruit flavors, accented with light
barrel notes, quickly fade on the delicate finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $32
85
Smasne Cellars 2008 Phinny Hill Vineyard Carmenère (Horse Heaven Hills). A
heavily pungent scent of bell pepper is partially cloaked
in mocha flavors but seeps through on the palate. An uneasy truce between the vegetal fruit and the chocolaty
barrel keeps this wine in an awkward condition; more
bottle time may soften it but it can’t ripen it. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $28
85
Stottle 2007 Nebbiolo (Horse Heaven
Hills). Pure Nebbiolo from the Elerding VineWineMag.com | 61
yard, aged 40 months in a mix of French and American
oak. Nebbiolo does not have much color to begin with,
and this seems a bit washed out, with acids and barrel
flavors overtaking the fruit. Astringent and aggressively
oaky. —P.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $42
62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
SPIRITS
REMEMBER THE REPOSADO
"I
don’t drink reposado,” the Tequila rep
said. “I just don’t think of it. I use blanco for mixing drinks, and añejo for sipping straight up.”
Apparently, reposado has become the forgotten middle child of the Tequila world. Blanco
(“white,” or unaged) Tequila is the sassy youngest, the one who stirs up trouble in margaritas
and other cocktails, while añejo (“aged”) Tequila
is the elder statesman, dark and mellow.
Meanwhile, reposado (“rested”) Tequila,
aged in oak barrels from two months to one year,
is often a perfect blend of sprightly peppery and
citrus notes tempered by mellow, toasty vanilla.
It’s also an excellent canvas for showcasing
the differences in terroir. Most Tequila originates in Jalisco, Mexico; those distilled from
agave plants grown in the highlands area tend to
have a fruity, floral, herbaceous quality, while in
the lowlands, volcanic soil yields earthy, dry tequilas. Further, a number of smaller producers
specify particular estates where the agave plants
were grown.
This Cinco de Mayo, don’t forget about reposado. Bartenders certainly aren’t. Indeed, reposado Tequila is making a strong showing on
cocktail menus. While añejos are often too expensive to mix, and blancos too brash, the honeyed tones of reposados lend affordable finesse
to all manner of drinks, and many are suitable as
sipping Tequilas in their own right.
With such a fine crop available, it’s hard to
imagine why anyone wouldn’t be drinking reposado these days.
Sláinte!
—K ara Newman
96
Siete Leguas Reposado (Mexico; Gemini Spirits & Wine, Chicago, IL). Excellent
all around, for sipping or mixing, this highlands Tequila
has a delicacy and an almost whiskey-like feel to it. Pale
straw, almost no color at all, with lightly smoky and herbaceous flavors finishing with a hint of vanilla.
abv: 40%
Price: $45
93
1921 Tequila Reposado (Mexico; Casa
1921 LLC, San Antonio, TX). Luscious butterscotch notes touched with lemon peel lead the way,
while dry cocoa, leather and cigar tobacco notes develop on the finish. Soft feel. Based on this complex and
mouthwatering reposado, the añejo must be a knockout.
abv: 40%
Price: $45
95
93
Luna Nueva Ultra Premium Limited Edition Tequila Reposado (Mexico; LCG International, Medina, OH). For full review see page
10.
abv: 40%
Price: $37
94
Don Roberto Reposado (Mexico; Aveniu
Brands, Baltimore, MD). Don Roberto is
one of the few remaining 100% Mexican- and familyowned Tequila producers. The brand launched in 1924
as the family’s private stock, and was originally not commercially available, but given only as gifts. It’s still giftworthy, bursting with butterscotch flavors and ending
with a lilt of fresh apples, pears, and light brush of black
pepper. Aged six months.
abv: 40%
Price: $44
94
Tequila Corrido (Mexico; True Blue Imports, Scottsdale, AZ). “Corrido” is Mexican
folk music, originating from the late 1800s. Nodding
to the musical name, a guitar pick on a leather strap is
wrapped around the bottle’s neck. Perhaps because it’s
aged twice (first in Jack Daniel’s barrels, then in Maker’s
Mark barrels), this highlands Tequila is dessert-like and
reminiscent of an añejo. It would make a good sipping
Tequila. Look for maple syrup and apple notes, with a
creamy mouthfeel and tingly cinnamon spice on the finish.
abv: 40%
Price: $40
Karma Tequila (Mexico; WC Spirits LLC,
North Hollywood, CA). Aged nearly a full
year (even one more day would have classified this as
añejo), this pale-straw spirit has a caramel foundation,
but retains a pleasing lightness. The aroma is delicate
and floral, while the flavors surprise, with cinnamon,
cardamom and nutmeg woven into the caramel. It
doesn’t hurt that this highlands Tequila comes in a gorgeous bottle with a glass stopper and leather bracelet
wrapped around the bottle’s neck.
abv: 40%
Price: $37
92
Luna Nueva 2012 The Mayan Prophecy Edicion Especial Tequila Reposado
(Mexico; LCG International, Medina, OH). For
full review see page 10.
abv: 40%
Price: $45
92
Azul Imperial Reposado (Mexico; United
Imports, West Covina, CA). Give this bright
yellow-gold reposado a little time for the alcohol to dissipate. Look for a mild honey-agave scent and round,
buttery flavors with a faint peppery tickle in the back of
the throat. The spirit finishes dry and clean, with a bit of
oakiness. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $29
92
Jose Cuervo Tradicional Tequila Reposado (Mexico; Diageo, New York, NY). A
solid cocktail choice, this 100% agave Tequila has rich,
rounded vanilla and zingy peppery notes followed by a
dry cocoa accent on the finish. The bottle is a stunner,
with its yellow, red and black Day of the Dead graphic
that’s meant to be frozen to bring out additional thermochromic details. (It’s a bit of overkill—the bottle is
plenty eye-catching at room temperature.)
abv: 40%
Price: $26
92
Olmeca Altos (Mexico; Pernod Ricard
USA, Purchase, NY). Within the square
bottle with tactile raised graphics, this spirit is loaded
with tropical fruit (pineapple and lychee) chased by robust caramel notes and waft of smoke. Leaning toward
dessert-like flavors, this highlands Tequila veers close to
añejo territory. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $25
92
T1 Tequila Reposado Excepcional (Mexico; T1 Tequila, San Antonio, TX). Rested
in barrels previously used to age Scotch whiskey, this
Tequila is complex, earthy and unlike any other. Where
others are caramel-forward (the result of resting in used
Bourbon barrels), this reposado is crisp, with woodsy,
green flavors and subtle notes of coconut and toffee on
the finish. The striking, bulbous bottle looks like a genie should pop out, capped as it is with a flame-shaped
glass stopper.
abv: 40%
Price: $48
92
Tres Agaves Reposado (Mexico; Tres
Agaves Products, Oakland, CA). Give
this light reposado a little time to open up. The aroma morphs from a smoky, almost barbecue sauce-like
aroma to softer, fruiter, even lightly floral notes. The
spirit, aged six to nine months in previously used Bourbon casks, offers a vanilla flavor with an assertive herbaceous, grassy finish, faintly touched with menthol and
fresh basil.
abv: 40%
Price: $36
91
Gran Amigo Tequila Reposado (Mexico;
Winery Exchange, Novato, CA). Smoky
notes barrel out first, followed by rounded butterscotch
and nutty flavors on the elongated finish. This palestraw reposado would make a great margarita, it’s crying
out for lime. Best Buy.
Price: $25
abv: 40%
91
Pueblo Viejo (Mexico; Gemini Spirits &
Wine, Chicago, IL). Has a well-constructed
mix of fruity sweetness and oaky vanilla, with a light but
lingering smoky finish. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $23
91
Tequila Teirras Reposado (Mexico; Castle Brands, New York, NY). This certified organic Tequila has a fresh, fruity aroma, with faint touches of pepper and hay. On the palate, look for bright jalapeño flavors, like a blanco, covered with a thick blanket
of vanilla. Soft feel.
abv: 40%
Price: $32
90
Excellia Reposado (Mexico; Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY). Aged in
Sauternes and Cognac casks, this light gold spirit has
WineMag.com | 63
notes of sweet vanilla, delicate oak, and a faintly smoky
finish. The bottle looks sophisticated, with a pretty red
glass flower inset.
abv: 40%
Price: $65
90
Gran Dovejo Reposado (Mexico; Mendez Imports, Dixon, CA). This spirit has a
complex, rewarding array of flavors. The aroma is very
smoky and spicy, evoking barbecue. But on the tongue,
this vibrant-gold reposado layers vanilla and orangepeel flavors with a warm hint of toffee, and the smoke
only comes through on the finish. Comes packaged in a
striking, gift-worthy square-shouldered bottle with impressive heft. Aged nine months.
abv: 40%
Price: $50
90
Magave Tequila Reposado (Mexico;
Magave Tequila, San Francisco, CA). This
reposado reads almost like a mezcal, showing lots of
zingy jalapeno pepper and smoke, chased with just a
touch of vanilla-tinged agave sweetness. Attractive bottle design with embossed bull logo on front and goldleaf design on back. Aged for eight months.
Price: $36
abv: 40%
90
Milagro Select Barrel Reserve (Mexico;
William Grant and Sons, New York, NY).
This limited-edition reposado comes in an exquisite
bottle with a spiky glass piña (agave) blown inside. The
restrained and mellow spirit has a mild honey aroma
and flavor, with flashes of cinnamon and jalapeño pepper on the finish. Soft feel.
abv: 40%
Price: $57
90
Tributo A Mi Padre Tequila (Mexico; Innovation Spirits, Newport Beach, CA).
A beautiful story accompanies this Tequila: the name
translates as “Tribute To My Father.” This pale gold, addictively sippable reposado does justice to the memory of Hector Barrero Sr., melding notes of wildflowers,
honey, custard and pears. Despite a bit of alcohol sting,
this spirit is soft and light. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $29
90
Tequila Ocho Reposado (Mexico; Altamar Brands, Corona del Mar, CA). The
aroma on this single-estate Tequila is reminiscent of a
very lightly peated whiskey, mingling smoke and pepper
with a light caramel note. The flavors tend toward custard and agave sweetness, spiked with pepper and mint.
Earthy, smoky and peppery notes accelerate on the long
finish. Light, silky feel.
abv: 40%
Price: $50
90
Voodoo Tiki Tequila Reposado (Mexico:
Tiki Tequila of America, Lighthouse Point,
FL). Tiki-philes will exclaim over the whimsical bottle with a green tiki figurine inside and capped with a
green wax seal. The light gold spirit itself, aged six to
eight months, features zesty citrus, piquant pepper, and
a long, elegant vanilla finish. It’s a natural for tiki classics like El Diablo (combined with crème de cassis and
ginger beer).
abv: 40%
Price: $50
89
Azunia Tequila Reposado (Mexico; Intersect Beverage LLC, San Clemente, CA).
64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
In this lowlands Tequila, fruity and peppery flavors
weave harmoniously into the elongated finish. This spirit would be particularly welcome in a paloma or other
citrus-forward cocktails. Rested in oak for eight months.
abv: 40%
Price: $35
89
Mejor Reposado Tequila (Mexico; Mejor
Tequila Company, Los Altos, CA). This
bright, light-gold spirit has a luxuriously fresh, fruity
scent, like caramel drizzled over apple slices. The flavors are complex and mellow, morphing from grassy
and herbal to lemon, hazelnut and cocoa on the finish.
This single-estate highlands Tequila has a bit of alcoholic heat, but that wouldn’t matter lightened in a margarita or other citrusy cocktail.
abv: 40%
Price: $43
88
Lunazul Tequila Reposado (Mexico;
Heaven Hill, Bardstown, KY). After a hint of
agave sweetness, this spirit is fairly smoky on the palate,
chased by a fruity note. Overall, this light-gold Tequila
has a soft feel, although there’s a bit of alcohol bite, too.
Price: $23
abv: 40%
88
Milagro Tequila Reposado (Mexico; William Grant and Sons, New York, NY). This
pale straw-colored spirit has a soft, fruity aroma with a
hint of green bell pepper. On the palate, look for jalapeño pepper and oaky, tannic notes and a gentle vanilla
finish. Velvety feel.
abv: 40%
Price: $29
87
Siembra Azul Tequila Reposado (Mexico;
Suro International Importers, Philadelphia, PA). Aged for just three months, this reposado
reads almost like a perky blanco. It features lots of jalapeño pepper, smoothed out with light honeyed notes
and it finishes with a touch of oak tannin astringency.
Would make a good margarita. Aged for three months.
abv: 40%
Price: $40
87
Tequila Corazon Reposado (Mexico;
Gemini Spirits & Wine, Chicago, IL). This
light-gold reposado has a funky, overripe aroma and flavors that lean toward green pepper, sweetened with a
drizzle of agave and nice sprinkle of baking spices on
the finish. Any cocktail dosed with lime would really
perk up this spirit.
abv: 40%
Price: $32
85
Peligroso Tequila Reposado 42 (Peligroso Spirits, San Clemente, CA). At 42% abv,
this spirit is distilled hotter than Peligroso’s standard 80
proof line. Although there’s been something of a mania for higher-proof spirits recently, the extra alcohol
doesn’t do this reposado any favors, bringing forward
notes of smoke, oregano and resin. Consider opting for
Peligroso’s fruity standard-issue reposado instead.
abv: 42%
Price: $50
82
Regional Reposado Tequila (Mexico; Intersect Beverage LLC, San Clemente,
CA). Although this lowlands Tequila rested in oak for
six months, the spirit shows practically no color or aroma from its time in barrels. The flavor has notes of resin,
with a light floral or herbal finish, and a flash of alcoholic heat on the tongue.
abv: 40%
Price: $20
82
Tequila Oro Azul Reposado (Mexico; 21st
Century Spirits, Commerce, CA). This
highlands Tequila has a funky vegetal scent and herbaceous flavors that combine oregano, resin and faint agave sweetness. It does come in a distinctive, bright-blue
pyramid-shaped bottle.
abv: 40%
Price: $27
BEER
86
STOCKING UP FOR SUMMER
W
ith summer finally in sight, now is the
time to start stocking up on some of
today’s refreshing beer styles: light lagers, pale ales, and easy-drinking IPAs. But perhaps the most iconic selection for the season is a
wheat beer, a deliciously light and yet oh-so-satisfying glass of gold that is sure to quench your
thirst while simultaneously offering complexity
and depth of flavor.
Belgian wheat beers (aka witbier, witte, wit,
white) are some of the most balanced, delicious
and refreshing brews. They’re especially delicious during the summer months when their
assertive carbonation, crisp citrus notes and
delicate spice aromas provide a welcome counterbalance to warm weather.
In the U.S., wheat beers have become increasingly popular, and many summer seasonals released from domestic brewers are made in
that style. Normally pale to golden in color, with
a substantial head, citrus-dominant wheat flavors
and a briskly carbonated mouth, American ver-
sions often take traditional European styles and
add their own twist: a unique spice, an unusual
hop, a special brewing technique.
Note the proper way to pour these brews.
Because many wheat beers are bottle conditioned, it is common to find some sediment at
the bottom of the bottle. Pour half of the beer
and then swirl the remaining liquid in the bottle
before emptying what remains into your glass.
This way, any of the delicious yeast sediment that
might have settled to the bottom of the bottle
can be properly enjoyed.
A perfect partner for light fare like salads and
grilled chicken or fish, enjoy your favorite wheat
beer while summer lasts.
But if wheat beers aren’t your thing, we also
offer a handful of reviews for other seasonallyappropriate styles: pale ales and American IPAs.
There are many more excellent choices available
than what’s included here, so be sure to check
out your local distributor for the latest releases.
Prost!
—Lauren Buzzeo
WHEAT BEER
88
90
Dock Street Bubbly Wit (Witbier; Dock
Street Brewery, PA). Pours a golden-yellow
color with a good amount of haze and a frothy white
head that lingers. Rings of lace form in the glass after
each sip. Aromas are typical for a wit: citrus, banana,
clove and pepper. The medium-weight mouth is brimming with sweet citrus flavors, framed by notes of whole
wheat bread, spice and lemongrass. Although the “Bubbly” part of the name came from the brewery’s use of
Champagne yeast in this beer, it’s appropriate for this
assertively carbonated selection.
abv: 8.25%
Price: $12/750 ml
90
Port City Optimal Wit (Witbier; Port City
Brewing Company, VA). For full review see
page 10.
abv: 5.0%
Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack
89
Samuel Adams Summer Ale (Americanstyle Wheat Ale; Boston Beer Company,
MA). A tell-tale sign that summer’s finally here is when
your favorite local watering hole has updated their Sam
Seasonal tap to Summer Ale. A slightly hazy, golden
apricot color in the glass, this easy-drinking, warmweather beer offers attractive notes of lemon, bread
dough, allspice and a pinch of white pepper. Flavors
of toasted wheat and lemon flesh out the mildly grainy,
textured palate. Refreshing, with vibrant carbonation
and a clean finish accented by hints of citrus pith.
abv: 5.35%
Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack
Boulevard Unfiltered Wheat Beer (American-style Wheat Ale; Boulevard Brewing
Company, MO). A soft floral character permeates the
nose of this classic Midwest wheat beer. It pours quite
hazy and light golden-yellow in color with a frothy white
head. The yeast and grain aromas are in the forefront of
the bouquet, while the vibrant mouth offers juicy citrus
notes that end on a slightly bitter note. Alongside the
citrus-fruit core are flavors of banana and bread dough,
fleshing out the medium-bodied mouth with a slightly
creamy texture. A refreshing selection you can enjoy all
day long.
abv: 4.5%
Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack
88
Uinta Hazel Organic Amber Wheat Ale
(American-style Wheat Ale; Uinta Brewing Co., UT). There’s a bright hop streak to this ale,
lifting the moderately malty nose and mouth. Notes
of raw dough and red fruits, like mild plum and small
berries, complement the caramel malt aromas and flavors. Approachable and balanced, with a medium body,
a round mouthfeel that’s lifted by lively carbonation and
an easy finish.
abv: 4.0%
Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack
Hopper Whitman Belgian White (Witbier;
World Brews, NY). Hopper Whitman is a value line, and this addition to the lineup offers great quality for the price. It’s lively and approachable, with faint
aromas of spicy yeast and mandarin orange rind. There
is a faint hop presence to the mouth, which adds a bit
of depth to its otherwise straightforward wheat character and helps to stretch out the finish. A session-ready
selection. Best Buy.
abv: 5.4%
Price: $6/12 oz 6 pack
PALE ALE
89
Ninkasi Spring Reign Ale (American Pale
Ale; Ninkasi Brewing, OR). This hazy-gold
colored beer pours with a frothy white head and leaves
a nice rim of lacing behind with each sip. Light aromas
of clean malt and grass lead the way with glimmers of
orange and white melon on the back. Surprising husky
grain flavors dominate in the mouth, followed closely by
a fair amount of astringency on the dry finish.
Price: $4/22 oz
abv: 6.0%
86
Cable Car Small Batch Pale Ale (American Pale Ale; Cable Car Brewing Co., NY).
Faint aromas of grassy hops, lemony citrus and fresh
mint leaves add character to the otherwise bready malt
core of this light orange brew. Easy drinking with a light,
effervescent mouth and a clean grain finish. Balanced
and refreshing; a nice choice for summertime.
abv: 5.3%
Price: $7/12 oz 6 pack
AMERICAN IPA
89
Maui Brewing Big Swell IPA (American
IPA; Maui Brewing, HI). Sweet and bitter all
at once, it’s like a rollercoaster for your senses with the
two forces seemingly going back and forth on which one
will take the lead. The bouquet is all fresh, sweet, citrus
fruit aromas, while the medium-weight mouth is loaded
with rich, toasty malt flavors followed by a sticky, astringent finish.
abv: 6.2%
Price: $9/6 pack cans
89
Sam Adams Latitude 48 IPA (American
IPA; The Boston Beer Co., MA). An interesting IPA brewed with hops from top growing regions
located close to the 48th latitude. This beer seems to be
lacking a bit of fresh citrus flavor in the hop profile, with
earthy spice and hop oil notes dominating the overall
character. The sweet caramel and toasty malt flavors fill
the mouth, with crisp carbonation and a smooth, rich
finish.
abv: 6.0%
Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack
86
Barrel Trolley Belgian White (Witbier;
World Brews, NY). Although this isn’t the
most complex wit, it’s well-made and very drinkable,
with the classic characteristics of a wheaty core jazzed
up by accents of citrus peel, coriander and peppery
spice. The mouth is light in body and highly carbonated,
and there’s a crisp edge to the finish.
abv: 5.4%
Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack
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