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From Modern Salon special issue: texture! - September 2012 - Featuring Kenra wavy texture ad. Page 7
Loyalty to a Holy Grail Product
Survey Says
MODERN
SALON.C
OM/TEXT
URE
New research indicates that curly clients are loving their
texture and hungry to keep the conversation going.
I continue
to try and
buy other
products
workin
curls g
46%
Texture
op
in the co tions
rporate
world
Did you know that 65 percent of people with wavy hair straighten it at least sometimes? But that
key word—wavy—means just what it says. Be careful not to assume that wavy-haired habits apto kinky-curly clients, more than half of whom choose to go “natural” all of the time.
fashply
ion
It’s not
all
“You cannot look at all textured clients as one category,” cautions Michelle Breyer, presafter all bad,
ident of TextureMediaInc. “There are different needs and desires depending on their texture,
keratibecause
not all texture is created equal! If you want to be a well-rounded texture stylist, you
n
care
Retail pr must understand that there’s more than one type of texture client.”
ot
and alter ection
natives
Recent research
also indicates that texture clients are continually looking for new opThe cate
gory of
texture who are happy with their product of choice still have an eye
tions. Nearly half an
ofd mcurly
clients
aintenan
enhanc
ement
ce ke
Are you
a
curl expe eps growinThat
g.
out for the next great development.
nonstop interest in their texture keeps the converrt yet?
sation open for you to introduce them to new products and tools even after you’ve “solved”
their hair issues. The two major reasons texture clients believe that people are more accepting of their curls today vs. five years ago are that stylists and products are increasingly
addressing their needs, and that people are more appreciative of their own natural beauty.
Perhaps the best news from the market research department is that a small minority—
only two percent—of textured clients say they wish they had straight hair. Today’s clients
either fully embrace their curl or admit to good days and bad days. As you become more fully
educated about texture and skilled at styling it, you’ll help make every day a day that your
curly clients are grateful for the beautiful texture that nature provided.
I am loyal
to that
product
54%
frizz in
Curl Power
ON THE
COVER
Hair by
Rus
for MODER ty Phillips
Artist Ses N SALON
sion
Respondents= 3805
Attitudes Towards
Natural Curls Today
I don’t care one way
or another 3%
I hate my curls and I wish
I had straight hair
2%
Some days
I love my
curls and
other days
they drive
me crazy
56%
I love my
curls and
wouldn’t
change
them
39%
Respondents= 3809
> More texture! online at modernsalon.com/texture and NaturallyCurly.com
September 2012
7
From Modern Salon special issue: texture! - September 2012 - Featuring Kenra Classic™ Thermal Styling Spray. Page 16
Curl Play
Whether you’re creating waves or ringlets, adding
definition, or reshaping the curl pattern, play up your
clients’ texture and give them the hair they crave!
COOL CURLS
Use GK Hair’s CurlsDefineHer Curl
Defining Cream to create smooth, soft
curls and waves and control frizz.
TRY IT:
1. Apply CurlsDefineHer on wet hair.
2. Let hair air dry or use a diffuser for maximum
curl definition.
SLEEK BOMBSHELL
For cuts like pixies and
bobs, add texture by
pumping up the volume,
and adding separation and
detail.
RAKE & SHAKE
“To know curls is to love curls” is the philosophy behind
Ouidad’s trademarked styling technique, Rake & Shake.
According to the company, the trick is to create the curl
pattern while hair is damp and let locks dry naturally or
with a diffuser set to low heat.
TRY IT:
1. Gently squeeze out excess water and blot with a towel.
2. Using outstretched fingers or the Ouidad Double Detangler
comb, add a leave-in conditioning spray such as Botanical
Boost to seal in moisture, then diivide hair into 4-6 sections.
3. Rub a nickel-sized dollop of styling product such as Curl Quencher Moisturizing Styling Gel between palms and work
through each section. Separate fingers and “rake” the section from scalp to ends, spreading the gel throughout.
4. When you reach the ends, gently “shake” hair back and forth to create curl. Continue on remaining sections.
TRY IT:
1. Spray Big Sexy Hair Root
Pump Plus Humidity Resistant
Volumizing Spray Mousse into
damp hair at the roots, and
blow dry for big volume.
2. Emulsify Healthy Sexy Hair Soy Paste
Texture Pomade and apply with fingertips
for separation, texture and detail.
3. For extra shine and smoothness, mist with
Straight Sexy Hair Smooth & Seal Aerated
Anti Frizz Shine Spray.
4. Lock in the look with Big Sexy Hair Spray &
Play Volumizing Hair Spray.
5. Diffuse hair or let dry naturally.
CURL ENCHANTMENT
Give clients glamorous curls that are refined, soft and touchable.
TRY IT:
1. Twirl, twist or scrunch damp hair with a microfiber towel to promote a prominent curl pattern, and then
allow hair to dry naturally or use a diffuser.
2. Separate out a specific curl pattern to create definition.
3. Use Kenra’s Classic Thermal Styling Spray 19 for thermal protection while styling.
4. Use a curling iron or wand to create loose curls.
SOPHISTICATED FLUFF
The contrast of finger waves and airy texture creates a retro, sexy look for your short-hair clients.
TRY IT:
1. Color with Rusk Deepshine Super Lightener Gold with 40 volume.
2. After distributing Rusk Being Sexy Gel through damp hair,
finger-style a deep wave pattern in front and blow dry the back.
3. Spray each section with Rusk Being Sexy Hairspray; then curl
back the section on a ¾” ceramic curling
iron. Clip each curl and allow to cool before
brushing out for separation and texture.
16
September 2012 > More texture! online at modernsalon.com/texture and NaturallyCurly.com
From Modern Salon special issue: texture! - September 2012 - Featuring Kenra Classic™ Curl Glaze Mousse 13, Curl Spray 8,
Thermal Styling Spray 19 and Volume Spray 25, Page 18
Curl solutions: available at:
To find the store nearest you, visit: www.cosmoprofbeauty.com To find a Sales Consultant, call: 1-800-362-3186
48
%
of curly-haired
consumers wear
their hair curly
100% of the time.
– Naturally Curly Network, 2011
›› gET ThE looK
WAVY TEXTURE FROM KENRA®
Combine Kenra® Curl Glaze Mousse 13, Curl Spray 8, Thermal Styling Spray 19 and Volume
Spray 25 to rejuvenate and accentuate the soft wave or curly textures of fine to medium hair.
STEP 1. Rub an ample amount
of Curl glaze mousse 13
between your hands until the
foam becomes clear. Distribute
evenly through damp hair.
STEP 2. Apply Curl Spray 8
throughout damp hair.
Twirl, twist or scrunch with
a microfiber towel. Diffuse
the hair to accentuate and
promote curl.
STEP 3. For additional texture
and definition, work through
dry hair section by section
alternating Thermal Styling
Spray 19 and an iron.
STEP 4. Finish the look
with award-winning
Volume Spray 25.
›› gET ThE looK
DEFINED NATURAL CURLS
STEP 1. Start with SeaExtend® Silkening Shampoo and
Conditioner. This combo provides the ultimate color care
with gentle cleansing and conditioning, free from sulfates,
parabens and sodium chloride.
+
STEP 2. Cocktail a dollop of aquage® Defining gel
with two pumps of SeaExtend® Silkening oil Treatment.
Emulsify together in the palm of your hands, and then
apply to wet hair. Comb through for even distribution to
create strand definition and enhance control of natural
curls. Curls will stay frizz-free and soft with brilliant shine.
From Modern Salon special issue: texture! - September 2012 - Featuring Kenra Professional’s artistic style manager, Davin Testerman, talking about new curl and wavy style trend and tips of “good frizz” style. Page 24-25
Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images
Frizz!
Nature’s Gift
into a nice wave—a softer look—and
after that it will slowly happen.”
That was Then
Perhaps salon clients have to first
trust that this is not their mother’s—
or grandmother’s—frizz.
“The last time we had the chance
to see a true shift from sleek-straight
trends was the transition from Cher’s
parted-down-the-middle ’70s ’do to
the over-processed and big hair of the
’80s,” says Testerman. While overprocessing may have been an appropriate vehicle at the time, it won’t fly
today. But neither will the opposite—
just letting hair have its way.
“In the ’80s, most of the frizz was
natural,” says Leiva. “Today we make
it happen with products, tools and
even color techniques.”
Frizz-seeking clients will replace
smoothing shampoos and conditioners with hydrating products. Instead
of flat irons and curling irons, the heat
tool of choice will be the blow dryer.
And rather than drenching the hair in
styling creams, they will rough up the
cuticle with pomades and polishes.
“I love to see frizzy hair with shine
in it,” Leiva says. “Use some spray to
hold it, so it looks as though it’s been
styled and didn’t just happen. This
time around, we’re creating manageable frizz.”
Frizz as Fashion
Accepting their frizzy fate, curlies have
learned to live with it or conquer it,
but they haven’t glorified it in decades.
This was one pendulum that was rarely predicted to swing back. But pendulums always do.
24
September 2012 > More texture! online at modernsalon.com/texture and NaturallyCurly.com
Frazer Harrison/Getty Images
“Curly and wavy hair textures tend to
naturally be more frizzy,” says Davin
Alan Testerman, artistic style manager at Kenra Professional. “The core
bonds of the hair shaft are crooked
and, even if healthy, have the tendency to appear frizzy.”
Furthermore, because of the structure of wavy, curly and coily hair, it
is harder for the scalp’s natural oils
to move down the hair shaft. Less oil
means less hydration, and less hydration means more frizz.
“Hair becomes frizzy when it lacks
moisture, which can happen from
styling methods, chemical services or
natural occurrence,” says Jaritza Ortiz,
education and testing coordinator at
GK Hair. “When there is high humidity
in the air, hair tends to pull in needed
moisture, thereby causing frizz.”
“Frizz is becoming more of a trend
on the runway because, quite simply,
it’s time,” says Testerman. “The looks
on the silver screen, runways and magazine covers have been straight for so
long that the avant-garde direction that
sashays down the runway should seem
to go to the extreme of curly-frizzy.”
Houston salon owner Efrain Leiva,
an educator and international platform
artist for Farouk, agrees. “This look is
coming because the younger generation hasn’t tried it yet,” he observes.
“Now that they’re seeing it, they’ll
want to try it.”
And they’ll be seeing more of it, says
Ortiz, who notes that hair silhouettes always balance clothing design. “Runway
fashion for this fall is showing military
chic, with sleek lines and olive green and
brass, along with the laminated look,”
she adds. “Those masculine styles and
hard finishes are complemented by a
softer, frizzy, romantic style.”
On Main Street, Leiva sees the trend
more as evolution than revolution.
“Right now only the trendiest clients are asking for frizz,” he says. “In
New York and L.A., there are women
from all over the world, so clients are
more exposed to international looks,
but here in Houston we’re not seeing
a lot of it. However, our clients are getting into wavy hair. Before we get them
into frizzy hair, we have to move them
From Modern Salon special issue: texture! - September 2012 - Featuring Kenra Professional’s artistic style manager, Davin Testerman, talking about new curl and wavy style trend and tips of “good frizz” style. Page 24-25
Good Frizz / Bad Frizz The difference is all in the styling.
One great way to get clients on the frizz page is to point out
some that they already like. You know the messy French twist,
braid, chignon or loose pony they ask for? Yep, the unfinished
part—the coolest part—is frizz. But it’s good frizz.
“Good frizz is something we stylists call ‘flyaway hair,’”
says Matrix Artistic Director Daniel Roldan, a hair stylist at
NYC’s Cutler Salon and a finalist in the NAHA 2011 texture
category. “When you have good frizz, the hair is light and airy.
Bad frizz, on the other hand, is overworked and over-dry hair
with no control.”
To create good frizz, first dry the hair thoroughly and apply
product throughout the hair, Roldan advises.
“You can use a variety of tools,” he continues, naming a
teasing comb, cushion brush and wig brush. “Once you have
control of the hair’s direction, you can go against the grain to
create the frizz.”
Farouk Educator and International Platform Artist Efrain
Leiva uses the air from the blow dryer to do the back-combing for him.
“Hold the hair with the brush and apply some tension,”
he directs. “Then to rough-up the hair, blow-dry toward the
scalp—against the natural pattern.”
While color services have a purpose beyond that of frizzmaker, they can be worked to that added advantage. Leiva employs blonding baliage techniques to tease out the frizz.
“We place lighter color on the ends, and then we don’t style
them,” he explains. “Very blonde color helps the hair on the
ends become frizzy. These unfinished looks are very in style.”
The professionals at GK Hair offer this recipe for healthy,
haute frizz:
1. Prep the hair by mixing a cocktail of GK Hair’s Curl DefineHer and
Leave In Cream.
2. Either let the hair dry naturally or gently use a diffuser.
3. Divide the hair into four sections, and grab chunks of about one inch
each. Taking each chunk, do a few wraps with your index finger.
4. Holding the wrap gently between your thumb and index finger, push
back with the thumb and index finger of your other hand. This will create a beautifully textured, curly, controlled frizz look.
5. Finish with the GK Hair Light Hold Hairspray.
From Kenra Professional come these tips:
1. After moisturizing the hair, use a curl-enhancing product such as Kenra
Classic’s Curl Glaze Mousse 13, Curl Defining Creme 5 or Curl Spray 8.
Choose the product most appropriate for the client’s hair type.
2. Diffuse the hair to maximize volume and promote lustrous curl.
3. After hair is dry, turn the head upside down, lightly mist an aerosol
working spray and gently fluff and separate existing curl.
4. Flip hair back over and reapply a working spray such as Kenra Classic’s
Design Spray 9 or Perfect Medium Spray 13.
5. Spray Classic’s Thermal Styling Spray 19 on any desired curl formations that need to be touched up or enhanced with a small curling iron.
MARCH 9 – 11, 2013
McCormick Place
312.321.6809
CHICAGO
800.648.2505
AmericasBeautyShow.com
Connect.
Hair by Paul Chambers, Kuttin Ege’ Salon, Chicago
Photos by BABAK for ABS2012. Americas Beauty Show is a registered trademark of Cosmetologists Chicago ®.
> More texture! online at modernsalon.com/texture and NaturallyCurly.com
September 2012
25
From Modern Salon special issue: texture! - September 2012 - Featuring Kenra Platinum™ Hot Spray, Page 31
8
9
8
CURL REACTIVATOR from Sexy
Hair. Refreshes curls for a quick
restyle without washing hair;
provides bounce and definition
while improving curl’s elasticity.
sexyhair.com
9
HOT SPRAY 20 from Kenra.
Gives thermal protection for texture
and permits a clean release
from heated tools.
kenra.com
10
GLISTEN COLOR REFLECTING
DROPS from Beth Minardi.
Maximizes gloss and color
reflection with a mixture of sweet
almond oil, antioxidants and natural
conditioners.
minardicolor.com
11
HEALING OIL TREATMENT from
BioIonic. Smooths and restores
unmanageable hair with a nongreasy, lightweight formula.
bioionic.com
12
BLOW OUT SPRAY from Farouk
Systems. Helps tame frizz and
ensure longer-lasting results from
the CHI Enviro American Smoothing
Treatment.
farouk.com
13
MAGIC POTION INTENSE
BLOWOUT from American Culture.
Prevents fly-a-ways, helps repair
split ends, adds shine, offers
thermal protection and shortens
blow-dry time.
americanculturehair.com
14
BRAZILIAN AFRO KERATIN from
INOAR. Repairs hair shaft damage
to provide longer-lasting, smoother
styles on ethnic hair.
inoar.net
15
KERATIN SMOOTHING SYSTEM
from Rusk. Penetrates the hair shaft
with keratin and wheat proteins to
strengthen, smooth and repair the hair.
rusk1.com
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> More texture! online at modernsalon.com/texture and NaturallyCurly.com
September 2012
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