1. science
2. medicine
3. surgery

STUDY
Treatment of Pseudofolliculitis
With a Pulsed Infrared Laser
Arielle N. B. Kauvar, MD
Background: Pseudofolliculitis barbae is a common dis-
order in individuals with thick, curly hairs, and treatment options are limited.
Objective: To evaluate the effectiveness of a diode la-
ser in the treatment of pseudofolliculitis barbae.
went evaluation for improvement in the pseudofolliculitis and the degree of hair reduction.
Main Outcome Measures: Patients were assessed at
6- to 8-week intervals for the degree of hair-count reduction, improvements in papule and pustule formation, and adverse effects.
Design: Observational study.
Results: Complete hair-growth delays of 3 to 8 weeks’
Setting: Laser and Skin Surgery Center of New York,
New York, NY.
Patients: Ten consecutive patients with longstanding pseudofolliculitis barbae and skin phototypes
I to IV.
Interventions: Treatment was performed using an
810-nm diode laser (20- to 30-millisecond pulse duration) at fluences of 30 to 40 J/cm2. Three treatments were
performed at 6- to 8-week intervals, and subjects under-
P
From the Laser and Skin
Surgery Center of New York,
New York, NY.
duration were produced, and a decrease in hair density of
greater than 50% was noted in all subjects 6 to 8 weeks
after the last laser treatment. All patients exhibited greater
than 50% improvement in the signs of pseudofolliculitis.
Preexisting pigmentary changes improved with therapy.
Conclusion: Diode laser treatment is a safe and effective method for improving pseudofolliculitis barbae in
patients with skin phototypes I to IV.
Arch Dermatol. 2000;136:1343-1346
SEUDOFOLLICULITIS BARBAE is a
relatively common disorder
that occurs in glabrous skin
with coarse, curly hairs.1-4 It is
a frequent disorder of any hairbearing skin with thick, curly hairs that are
removed repetitively by shaving, waxing, or
plucking. Prevalence figures are only available for pseudofolliculitis barbae occurring in the beard area of African Americans who shave, and range from 45% to
83%.1 Shaving is a predisposing factor because it results in a sharp, pointed, short hair
that may curl over and reenter the skin. Extrafollicular penetration of the hair shaft is
one cause of pseudofolliculitis barbae.
Transfollicular penetration of the hair shaft
may occur as well. When the skin is held
taut during shaving or when a doubleedged razor is used, the sharply cut hair may
retract under the skin and grow directly into
the follicular wall. Incomplete wax epilation and electrolysis can also lead to transfollicular penetration of the growing hair
(REPRINTED) ARCH DERMATOL / VOL 136, NOV 2000
1343
shaft. In both cases, a foreign body inflammatory reaction ensues. The primary lesions of pseudofolliculitis are erythematous papules and pustules. When chronic
inflammation is present, hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, and fibrotic scarring may accompany the clinical picture. Biopsy results show foreign body giant cells
in the dermis with microabscess formation.5 Cultures of the pustules are sterile, and
bacteria are therefore not implicated in the
pathogenesis of this disorder.6
Treatment modalities used for pseudofolliculitis barbae have been largely disappointing, and include topical tretinoin
cream, corticosteroids, topical and oral antibiotics, surgical depilation, electrolysis, and
tedious shaving regimens.2,7,8 Pseudofolliculitis barbae will improve if the hairs are
allowed to grow. When shaving is stopped,
the ingrown hairs are released automatically by spring action within a 3- to 4-week
period. The only definitive cure for pseudofolliculitis barbae is permanent removal
WWW.ARCHDERMATOL.COM
©2000 American Medical Association. All rights reserved.
Downloaded From: https://jamanetwork.com/ on 09/09/2014
Patient Characteristics
PATIENTS AND METHODS
PATIENTS
Ten consecutive patients seeking laser hair removal
for the treatment of pseudofolliculitis barbae were enrolled in this study. The age of the patients ranged
from 18 to 45 years. All patients had skin phototypes II to IV, with coarse curly hair ranging in color
from brown to black (Table). Each patient had a history of pseudofolliculitis barbae in the treatment area
for a minimum duration of 1 year; patients 1 and 4
also had long-standing hyperpigmentation. Previous treatments included topical antibiotics, oral antibiotics, and intralesional corticosteroid injections.
TREATMENT
After informed consent was obtained, 35-mm photographs were taken of the treatment area. The area
was shaved with a disposable razor, and a eutectic
mixture of local anesthetics (lidocaine hydrochloride and prilocaine hydrochloride in an emulsion base)
was applied with occlusion for 1 hour before treatment. An 810-nm diode laser (Lighsheer; Coherent
Star, Palo Alto, Calif ) was used with a 9-mm spot size
and a pulse width of 20 milliseconds. Treatment fluences ranged from 30 to 38 J/cm2. The affected areas
were treated with contiguous laser pulses, and care
was taken to stretch the skin during treatment to ensure close contact between the sapphire cooled handpiece and the patient’s skin. After treatment, a hydrogel dressing was placed, and patients were
instructed to apply a combination of bacitracin zinc
and polymixin B sulfate (Polysporin) or bacitracin
ointment twice daily if crusting was present. The 2
patients with hyperpigmentation were treated with
4% hydroquinone cream (Lustra; Medicis, Phoenix,
Ariz), which they began applying 1 week after each
treatment.
Follow-up visits and additional treatments were
performed at 6- to 8-week intervals. Patients were instructed to shave the treatment area as needed between treatment sessions. During each visit, 35-mm
photographs were obtained, and an additional treatment was performed as before. Each patient underwent 3 laser treatments. Grading was performed by
2 independent investigators comparing pretreatment and posttreatment photographs. Hair counts
were determined from 35-mm photographs obtained before shaving the treatment area. A quartile
grading system was used to rate papule and pustule
formation, pigmentary changes, and hair density reductions as follows: 1 indicated 0% to 25% improvement; 2, 26% to 50%; 3, 51% to 75%; and 4, greater
than 75%. Patients were also questioned regarding
their satisfaction with the treatment and their impressions were recorded.
of the hair follicles. Surgical depilation carries a high morbidity. Electrolysis is a laborious procedure, and incomplete follicular destruction has resulted in keratin granulomas and pseudofolliculitis barbae. Selective follicular
(REPRINTED) ARCH DERMATOL / VOL 136, NOV 2000
1344
Patient No./
Age, y
Skin Phototype
Hair Color
Location
1/18
2/31
3/20
4/35
5/44
6/22
7/45
8/43
9/40
10/28
III
III
II
IV
II
II
II
II
II
II
Black
Black
Black
Black
Light brown
Brown
Black
Black
Brown
Black
Bikini
Axilla
Beard
Neck
Lip, chin
Buttock
Lip, chin
Beard
Bikini
Bikini
damage or destruction has been demonstrated with a variety of laser systems, including ruby lasers, 9,10 diode lasers,11 alexandrite lasers,12 Nd:YAG lasers,13,14 and a pulsed
noncoherent light source.15 Although all of these systems
have been shown to be effective in delaying hair regrowth, recent studies have demonstrated that some pulsed
laser and light-source hair-removal systems are capable of
producing a permanent reduction in hair density in the
treated areas.
The successful treatment of pseudofolliculitis barbae in 10 women is reported herein.
RESULTS
All patients tolerated the laser treatments well and experienced minimal discomfort. Perifollicular edema and erythema developed immediately after laser treatment and
lasted 2 to 3 days. Blister formation did not occur in any
of the treatment areas. Two patients reported scattered crusts
after the first treatment that resolved in 2 to 3 days. Complete hair-growth delays of 3 to 4 weeks’ duration were reported for facial hair, and 4 to 6 weeks for inguinal and axillary sites. In other body sites, patients reported complete
growth delays of 4 to 6 weeks. At the last follow-up visit, a
decrease in hair density of greater than 50% was observed
in all patients. After 3 treatments, all patients reported greater
than 75% improvement in the papules and pustule formation (Figure 1). Patients 1 and 4 had a history of firm hyperpigmented papules and nodules measuring up to 5 mm
in diameter that were present for longer than 3 and 5 years,
respectively (Figure 2). Both patients underwent electrolysis treatments in the past, which were discontinued
after the development of pseudofolliculitis barbae in the
affected areas. Patient 1 demonstrated an improvement rating of 4 and patient 4 showed an improvement rating of 3
in hyperpigmentation. The degree of hair reduction at the
last follow-up visit was rated at least 3 in all patients
(Figure 3). All patients were uniformly satisfied with their
treatment and noted improvement after just 1 treatment
session.
COMMENT
Pseudofolliculitis barbae is a common disorder of glabrous skin in individuals with course, curly hair that develops following hair removal, most commonly by shavWWW.ARCHDERMATOL.COM
©2000 American Medical Association. All rights reserved.
Downloaded From: https://jamanetwork.com/ on 09/09/2014
10
A
Hair Reduction
Pseudofolliculitis Improvement
No. of Patients
8
6
4
2
0
1
2
Improvement Rating
3
4
Figure 1. Improvement in pseudofolliculitis and degree of hair reduction in
10 patients after 3 treatments: 1 indicates 0% to 25% improvement; 2, 26%
to 50%; 3, 51% to 75%; and 4, greater than 75%.
B
A
Figure 3. Pseudofolliculitis of the chin and submental skin before (A) and 2
months after (B) treatment with the diode laser.
B
Figure 2. Patient with acute and chronic changes of pseudofolliculitis barbae
in the inguinal skin, before (A) and after (B) 3 diode laser treatments.
ing. Other hair removal methods, including wax epilation,
plucking, and electrolysis, also can result in pseudofolliculitis barbae. Common locations include the beard and
neck region in men and axillary and inguinal areas in
women. Traditional therapies, including topical and oral
antibiotics, tretinoin cream, corticosteroids, and laborious shaving methods, have yielded unsatisfying results.
The most obvious treatment for this disorder is complete follicular destruction. Laser hair removal is therefore a logical therapeutic approach to this common and
difficult problem.
Selective destruction of hair follicles was first described with the use of a long-pulsed ruby laser (694 nm,
270 microseconds), with hair-growth delays observed in
all of the 13 subjects following a single treatment.9 Two
years later, 4 of these subjects showed less than 50% terminal hair regrowth in the treatment areas, thereby demonstrating that permanent reduction in hair density could
(REPRINTED) ARCH DERMATOL / VOL 136, NOV 2000
1345
be achieved.16 Several other laser systems have been developed with the same goal in mind, and include the diode laser (800-810 nm), pulsed alexandrite laser (755 nm),
Nd:YAG laser (1064 nm), and a pulsed noncoherent light
source. Hair follicles are logical targets for laser therapy
because they are structures located relatively superficially within skin, and because they contain high concentrations of a natural chromophore, melanin.
Selective laser destruction of hair follicles is achieved
by using wavelengths of light that are well absorbed by
melanin but poorly absorbed by other naturally occurring chromophores in the skin, such as hemoglobin and
water. The laser pulse duration is chosen to be sufficiently small so that tissue heating is limited to the hair
follicle and is not conducted to the surrounding tissues.
This is accomplished by choosing a pulse duration smaller
than the thermal relaxation time, or cooling time, of the
hair follicle, and has been estimated to be 40 to 100 milliseconds for these 200- to 300-µm-diameter structures.
The wavelength of the laser determines the depth of penetration of the laser beam in tissue as well as the degree
of absorption by melanin. Melanin shows strong absorption from approximately 400 to 1000 nm, and longer
wavelengths penetrate more deeply into tissue. At the
lower end of the spectrum, melanin absorption is sufficiently high that the risk of epidermal damage becomes
greater when treating darker skin types. Relative sparing of the epidermis can be achieved at the longer visible and near infrared wavelengths, but the ability to treat
lighter hairs diminishes. The best laser wavelengths for
WWW.ARCHDERMATOL.COM
©2000 American Medical Association. All rights reserved.
Downloaded From: https://jamanetwork.com/ on 09/09/2014
hair removal are therefore somewhere in the range of 700
to 1000 nm.
One of the greatest challenges in laser hair removal
is targeting follicular melanin while sparing epidermal
melanin. Epidermal damage is limited by selecting pulse
durations longer than the thermal relaxation time of skin,
which has been estimated to be approximately 3 to 10
milliseconds. Longer heating times allow the basal layer
to cool as it is slowly heated. Therefore, the theoretically ideal pulse duration for hair-removal lasers should
lie between 10 and 100 milliseconds. Damage to the epidermis can also be limited by cooling the skin’s surface
during laser treatment. A variety of novel skin-cooling
methods are now being used for this purpose. The diode
laser has a water-cooled sapphire tip that is applied directly to the skin during treatment and serves to lower the
temperature of the epidermis by extracting heat away. Other
methods of skin cooling include water-chilled quartz plates,
cryogen spray cooling, and the application of cold gel to
the skin surface during treatment. By selectively cooling
the epidermis, high peak temperature can be generated
within the hair follicle while minimizing accumulation of
heat energy near the skin surface and resultant epidermal
damage.
Permanent removal of hair requires irreversible damage to the follicular stem cells. The location of follicular
germinative cells remains somewhat of a controversy; it is
unclear whether the stem cells reside in the bulb or within
a specialized area of the outer root sheath located at the
point of insertion at the arrector pili muscle, which has been
termed the bulge. The bulge is located at an approximate
depth of 1.5 mm, whereas the bulb resides at an approximate depth of 2 to 3 mm. Damage to these potential stem
cell sites may occur by means of direct heat conduction to
these areas, and/or generation of photoacoustic shock waves
from the shaft and matrix, which have a high concentration of melanin. Longer visible-light and near-infrared wavelengths provide the necessary combination of sufficient tissue penetration and adequate melanin absorption for this
purpose. The 810-nm emission wavelength of the diode laser used in this study provides sufficient tissue penetration needed for follicular damage. At a pulse duration of
20 milliseconds, hair-follicle injury is achieved primarily
by means of direct heat conduction from melanin-dense
areas of the follicle.
This study has demonstrated that treatment with the
diode laser improves the acute and chronic changes of
pseudofolliculitis barbae. All patients exhibited a decrease in the numbers of papules and pustules. Two of
the patients who demonstrated more chronic changes,
including long-standing hyperpigmentation and fibrotic papules, showed global improvement. There was
a reduction in the fibrotic papules, hyperpigmentation,
and inflammatory lesions. This study shows that treatment with the diode laser improves pseudofolliculitis for
2 months. With the induction of long-term reductions
in hair growth, we anticipate that disease remission will
last even longer. Further studies with longer-term follow-up are needed to establish the duration of the therapuetic benefit. Remarkably, high fluence (30-38 J/cm2)
did not produce epidermal damage or pigmentary alteration, even in the patient with phototype IV skin.
(REPRINTED) ARCH DERMATOL / VOL 136, NOV 2000
1346
An added benefit of laser treatment was the induction of hair-growth delays in all body areas treated, including the beard, axillary, and inguinal regions. All subjects exhibited a decrease in hair density of greater than
50% at the last visit. Because of the short follow-up period after the last laser treatment (6 to 8 weeks), it was
not possible to assess the degree of long-term hair reduction in these patients. However, based on other clinical studies using the same treatment variables, it is likely
that these patients also will have achieved a permanent
reduction in hair growth.
Pseudofolliculitis is a common problem typically
affecting men in the beard area and women in the axillary and inguinal regions. Traditional treatment options
are limited and yield unsatisfactory results. This report
demonstrates that treatment of pseudofolliculitis barbae
with a pulsed diode laser results in dramatic clinical
improvement in as few as 3 treatment sessions, with the
induction of significant hair-growth delays. This is a
practical therapeutic approach, enabling treatment of
large body-surface areas quickly with minimal morbidity
to the patient.
Accepted for publication May 22, 2000.
Reprints: Arielle N. B. Kauvar, MD, Laser and Skin
Surgery Center of New York, 317 E 34th St, Suite 11N, New
York, NY 10016.
REFERENCES
1. Alexander AM, Delph WI. Pseudofolliculitis barbae in the military: a medical administrative and social problem. J Natl Med Assoc. 1974;66:459-464.
2. Brown LA Jr. Pathogenesis and treatment of pseudofolliculitis barbae. Cutis. 1983;
32:373-375.
3. Halder RM. Pseudofolliculitis barbae and related disorders. Dermatol Clin. 1988;
6:407-411.
4. Brauner G, Flandermeyer KL. Pseudofolliculitis barbae. Int J Dermatol. 1977;16:
520-525.
5. Strauss JS, Kliginan AM. Pseudofolliculitis of the beard. Arch Dermatol. 1956;
74:533-542.
6. Greenbaum SS. Folliculitis barbae traumatica. Arch Dermatol. 1935;32:237241.
7. Coquilla BH, Lewis CW. Management of pseudofolliculitis barbae. Mil Med. 1995;
160:263-269.
8. Crutchfield CE. The causes and treatment of pseudofolliculitis barbae. Cutis. 1998;
61:351-354.
9. Grossman MC, Dierickx C, Farinelli W, Flotte T, Anderson RR. Damage to hair
follicles by normal-mode ruby laser pulses. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1996;35:889894.
10. Kauvar ANB. Hair removal with Q-switched lasers. Paper presented at: Annual
Meeting of the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery; May 17, 1996; Palm
Desert, Calif.
11. Lou W, Quintana A, Geronemus R, Grossman M. Prospective study of hair reduction by diode laser (800 nm) with long-term follow-up. Dermatol Surg. 2000;
26:428-432.
12. McDaniel DH, Lord JL, Ash KA, Newman J, Zukowski M. Laser hair removal: a
review and report on the use of the long-pulsed alexandrite laser for hair reduction of the upper lip, leg, back, and bikini region. Dermatol Surg. 1999;25:425430.
13. Bencini PL, Luci A, Galimberti M, Ferranti G. Long-term epilation with longpulsed neodimium:YAG laser. Dermatol Surg. 1999;25:175-178.
14. Goldberg DJ, Littler CM, Wheeland RG. Topical suspension-assisted Q-switched
Nd:YAG laser hair removal. Dermatol Surg. 1997;23:741-745.
15. Gold MH, Bell MW, Foster TD, Street S. Long-term epilation using the EpiLight
broad band, intense pulsed light hair removal system. Dermatol Surg. 1997;23:
909-913.
16. Dierckx CC, Grossman MC, Farinelli WA, Anderson RR. Permanent hair removal
by normal-mode ruby laser. Arch Dermatol. 1998;134:837-842.
WWW.ARCHDERMATOL.COM
©2000 American Medical Association. All rights reserved.
Downloaded From: https://jamanetwork.com/ on 09/09/2014