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The Manatee County Master Gardener Newsletter
April 2015 - Volume 14 – Issue 4
Large Milkweed Bug
Small Milkweed Bug
This is a toughie! Warm weather brings out a number
of black-and-red (or orangey-red) insects in Florida
gardens. They can be difficult to distinguish from one
another, especially as nymphs. However, knowing
their favorite host plants helps.
Milkweed Bugs
If you have a butterfly garden with milkweed
(Asclepias spp.), you are familiar with these chaps.
There are two kinds: the large milkweed bug
(Oncopeltus fasciatus) and the small milkweed bug
(Lygaeus kalmii). Nymphs are very similar for both
in that they are predominately red, but the adults are
fairly distinguishable; at up to 3/4 of an inch in length,
the large milkweed bug has a black bar across both
forewings. The small milkweed bug is 1/2 of an inch
in length and has a red or red-orange band across the
forewings that form an "X".
Milkweed bugs feed only on the seeds of milkweeds
and as such are no threat to anything else in your
garden. Since very few insects can handle the toxic
compounds of milkweed, some people are happy to
see them in order to keep milkweed populations in
check. I am one of those people, since milkweed
seeds, scattered by the breeze on their silken tufts,
land everywhere in the garden, successfully producing
plants in unlikely and unwanted places like my lawn!
(I've already got plenty of milkweeds to spare.) If you
are very protective of your milkweed patch, however,
removing seedpods at their earliest appearance will help
control the bugs.
You can often see various instars (life stages) of
milkweed bugs all clustered together (see photo); it is
thought that a large clump of insects serves as a stern
warning to would-be predators.
Milkweed Assassin Bug
This guy resembles milkweed bugs in its black-and-red
coloration (thus its common name), but any similarity
ends there. Zelus longpipes is equipped with long legs
and a beak to feed on any soft-bodied insect, including
some important crop and garden pests like aphids, army
worms, mosquitoes and cucumber beetles. It ambushes its
prey by hiding in foliage and entrapping it with a sticky
substance on the forelegs. It can kill and consume insects
many times its own size.
Jadera (or Goldenrain Tree) Bug
Jadera heamatholoma sports many common names
("soapberry bug," "red-shouldered bug," and "scentless
plant bug") but in our area is usually called "jadera" or
"goldenrain tree" bug. The latter name suggests one of its
favorite repasts, seeds of the goldenrain tree
(Koelreuteria spp.), although it will also dine on seeds of
chinaberry and soapberry. At the arrival of warm
weather, great batches of these ½ inch insects may be
seen in the garden or in trees.
continued on page 2
Photos: http://bugguide.net/
Milkweed Assassin Bug
Manatee County Agriculture and Extension Service
1303 17th Street West - Palmetto, FL 34221
Telephone: (941) 722-4524
http://manatee.ifas.ufl.edu
Master Gardeners Amy Stripe & Joy Derksen, Co-editors
Contents reviewed & edited by Lisa Hickey, Extension Agent
Send a photo or gardening problem via e-mail to the Master Gardeners
at [email protected] or visit them at the County Extension Office
Monday – Friday 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.; closed on Wednesday
HU
HU
UH
UH
What’s Black and Red and Crawling All Over
Jadera
Box Elder Bug
Ladybeetle
Photos: http://bugguide.net/
continued from page 1
The squashed jadera bug is considered a nuisance since it will stain sidewalks and clothing, but it is beneficial in
controlling the spread of goldenrain trees, an exotic, Category II invasive plant. Best control of the bug is achieved
by raking up and removing seeds.
Box Elder Bug
Often confused with the jadera bug, Boisea trivittatus appears in late summer and is also a potential nuisance. They
seldom cause noticeable damage to host trees such as box elder, maple and ash, but will cluster on the warm south and
east facing walls of houses and other buildings, and may attempt to come indoors for the winter. Once inside, they
don't reproduce or munch plants, but you might prefer to vacuum them up. Like the jadera bug, box elder nymphs are
mostly red. Adults are ½ of an inch long. They do prefer seeds, but will suck sap from leaves and stems.
Another red-and-black garden insect is the ladybug (or ladybeetle). There are over 104 species known in Florida
and they are rarely confused with the insects above, so this bug may the subject of a future article.
For more information and photos on any of the insects here, visit http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ and enter the common
insect name in the search box.
Hydroponics: Upcoming Workshop for Homeowners
Poor soils or limited space might be just two reasons why hydroponics could help improve your home vegetable
and herb production.
Hydroponics is the technique of growing plants in liquid nutrient solutions with or without the use of artificial
media such as coir or perlite. In Florida, a number of commercially grown crops are produced hydroponically,
including herbs, peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuces, and strawberries.
Hydroponics give you more control of pH and nutrients and reduce soil-related pests such as insects, fungi and
bacteria. Many hydroponic systems are raised up above ground level, making it easier to garden.
Types of hydroponic systems and substrates will be discussed in our upcoming workshop, including how to
scout for pests and diagnose plant problems. This presentation will be held at the Extension office in Palmetto
(1303 17th St. W.) on April 15th from 10:00 a.m. to 12 p.m. To register, call the Extension Master Gardeners at
(941) 722-4524.
2
gardening
by Joy Derksen, Master Gardener 2004
Spring is a busy gardening season, a time for
fertilizing, pruning, mulching and planting. As the
weather warms you can finally start pruning back your
cold damaged plants. Before pruning shrubbery check
for dead wood by scraping the bark off with your
fingernail. Brown or black color under the bark means
the wood is dead and can be trimmed. Green means
that the branch will probably leaf out again soon.
Undamaged shrubs can be pruned now also. Wait until
after spring bloomers (like azaleas) have flowered to
prune - or you will have no flowers!
Lawns may have gone dormant during the cold
weather and turned brown, but new growth should be
popping up. Lawns need their first fertilization in early
spring. But it may be too late to apply a pre-emergent
herbicide to get rid of weed seeds owing to unusually
warm temperatures in March. If areas need
replacement, resod now or think about replacing grass
with another groundcover. The University of Florida
has publications on ground covers at
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/eh139 and
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/eh138.
Insects may start to appear on new growth. Check for
aphids, mealy bugs and scale and begin spraying with
horticultural oils and soaps when you first spot them.
Home citrus trees should be fertilized (if not in bloom)
now with special citrus tree fertilizer. Do not prune
cold damage until late spring or summer. If you have
experienced fungal problems on fruit or leaves last
year, spray now with a fungicide and with horticultural
oil for insects like aphids and white fly. Do not spray
trees when in bloom.
Dead bananas, heliconias, and bird of paradise plants
can be trimmed to the ground; new green stalks should
appear soon from the root system. Palms need special
care after a freeze. Only remove completely brown
branches. The palm tree is trying to survive on fewer
fronds—even an ugly, partially freeze-burned frond is
supplying nutrients to the tree from the healthy green
sections. If the center spear is badly damaged the
entire palm may be dead. If the trunk froze the tree
may die slowly over the next three to six months
because palms, unlike trees, cannot repair damage to
the trunk system.
Shrubs and palms need to be fertilized after pruning.
Apply special long-acting palm fertilizer to help with
new growth.
Start warm season vegetables like tomatoes, peppers,
cantaloupes, summer squash, greens, and beans. Bulbs
for caladiums, gladiolus, and crinum, rain and eucharis
lilies can also go in now, along with hot weather
flowers like zinnia and gaillardias. There is still time
to plant cool weather annuals like pansies, alyssum,
snap dragons, and petunias. Or, wait until the cool
weather plants expire from the heat. Put that Christmas
poinsettia outside now for a month in the shade before
moving to a sunny spot. Cut it back to about six inches
high and remember to water it. Lastly, weed and
mulch the beds before taking a well-deserved rest!
3
Photos: http://commons.wikimedia.org
'Air' Plants, Like Spanish Moss,
Are Not Parasites to Hosts
by Michelle Atkinson, Extension Agent, Environmental Horticulture
Epiphytes are "air" plants that survive on moisture and
nutrients in the atmosphere. Several epiphytic plants,
like Spanish moss, ball moss, and lichen, are common
to the Florida landscape and southeast United States.
People unfamiliar with epiphytes sometimes worry
that they may cause injuries to plants. Epiphytes are
plants that live upon other plants, but do not harm their
hosts.
Often called air plants, epiphytes attach to the bark of
their host plants as a means of reaching sunlight or to
avoid competition on the ground. The most common
epiphyte seen in Florida is Spanish moss (Tillandsia
usneoides) -- not a true moss, but a member of the
bromeliad family.
Another misconception about Spanish moss is that it
harbors a biting insect commonly called a chigger or
redbug. The natural habitat of these creatures is mostly
low, damp areas with heavy natural vegetation.
Fallen moss -- and any plant material on or near the
ground -- may contain chiggers, but moss in trees
hanging above the ground rarely harbors them.
Many animals use Spanish moss for protection, taking
cover in its thick masses. A number of insects and
other invertebrates hide and breed in Spanish moss.
While epiphytes may grow on wires, fences and other
non-living structures, they are particularly well adapted
to well-lit, moist habitats commonly found near rivers,
ponds and lakes. Epiphytes will also grow in areas
where the humidity is fairly high.
Epiphytes do attach themselves to plants, but they do
not harm the plants, unlike mistletoe, which is a plant
parasite. Without soil as a source of nutrients,
epiphytic plants have evolved the capacity to obtain
minerals dissolved in water that flows across leaves
and down branches.
Epiphytes are not parasites! Do not remove them from
your trees. They are an important part of the ecosystem
and afford many ecological benefits, such as providing
food, water and shelter to Florida animals.
Trees that seem to be overrun with Spanish or ball
moss (T. recurvata) are usually in a state of decline
due to other reasons; the epiphytes are just taking
advantage of the high perch that offers them the best
sunlight.
For more information on ephiphytes, visit
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep485.
Two species of bats use garlands of Spanish moss as
daytime resting sites. Zebra longwing butterflies roost
in it at night. Many species of birds use strands of
moss to build their nests.
T. recurvate, ball moss
4
Here are two photographs of the adult and one of a larva. Credit: www.insectimages.org
A Flying Fung-us, A-mung-us!
Pests of indoor houseplants: Fungus gnats
by Nancy Porter, Master Gardener 2014
Homeowners frequently complain of small gnats
inside their homes. If you keep indoor houseplants,
some of these annoying pests can probably be traced
to the pots or planters where fungus gnats (Bradysia
spp.) reside.
The small yellowish-white eggs of fungus gnats are
mostly visible near the soil surface, as well as under
the lower leaves of the plant. The larvae hatch out in
just about four days. Undeveloped larvae are
wormlike in appearance and their bodies are white to
clear. They have a shiny-black head and measure
approximately ¼ inch when fully grown. These little
guys live in the soil and feed on fungus that grows in
wet soil.
Between 100 to 140 days comes the pupa stage, which
also lives in the soil. The pupae are white, but darken
as they mature. This stage is relatively short, lasting
only three to four days.
The adult gnats are small, long-legged flies. These
guys get busy quickly. They immediately begin to
mate and lay 100 to 150 eggs during their very short
lifespan of five to seven days. They are weak fliers,
but have the ability to run very quickly on the soil
surface. You might see more of them during the
winter and spring.
The adult fungus gnat does not damage the plant.
However, if you see symptoms of wilt or general
unhealthy appearance you might be an unknowing
host/hostess to a fungus gnat family. Their larvae are
guilty of feeding on and promoting decay of the
roots and lower stems. Unfortunately by the time you
see the adult gnats, the injury to the plants has already
occurred, although perhaps not yet noticeable.
How does the homeowner keep these pesky little
gnats at bay? Know and follow the watering
directions for each of your plants. Keeping highly
organic potting soil too moist is like laying out a
welcome mat! Do your best to keep the moisture
level of the soil low. If needed, let the soil dry out
once in a while. Be sure to store unused potting soil in
sealed containers.
Fungus gnats are harmless to humans, but can be quite
bothersome. To the owners of greenhouses they are
pests that can, and do, damage plants.
Biological controls are available for greenhouse
owners, or the ecologically minded homeowner who
owns more than one or two houseplants. Insect
parasitic nematodes are the chosen control method
(beneficial nematodes do not attack plants).
A good rule of thumb to help prevent the introduction
of these critters to your household is to inspect any
new plants purchased. You can always quarantine
your new plants for a short while before introducing
them into your home. That way, you can be a good
scout and keep an eye on the newbies, to see if they
are healthy and free of any infestations of any kind.
For more information on fungus gnats, visit:
http://www.mrec.ifas.ufl.edu/lso/entomol/fungnat/fun
gnat.htm or http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in372.
5
Willow Water
Article and Photographs by John Dawson, Master Gardener 2007
This time of year I begin propagating many plants for
our big Master Gardener plant sale in October. In
researching propagation techniques, an article came up
regarding the use of willow water to stimulate root
growth of cuttings. I’ve successfully used commercial
root hormone products for many years and decided to
do more research into a possible non-toxic alternative
to what I have been using.
Willow water is also called willow tea. Native
Americans taught our early settlers to gather willow
(Salix spp.), prepare, brew, and drink the tea as a
means to reduce minor aches and pains. Willow
contains salicylic acid, a plant hormone that is the
main ingredient in aspirin. It also contains another
plant hormone, indolebutyric acid (IBA), which is the
active ingredient of my commercial rooting hormone
product. My bottle label reads: 0.1% indole-3-butyric
acid, inert ingredient 99.9% (which turns out to be
talcum powder). The label also has a long list of
precautionary statements.
IBA is a plant hormone that stimulates root growth
and development. Willows have high concentrations
of IBA, which makes sense, because all you have to do
to grow a willow is cut off a branch and stick it in
the ground.
Salicylic acid is involved in triggering a plant’s natural
defenses. Purportedly, when you make willow water,
both salicylic acid and IBA leach into the water and
benefit the propagation of cuttings.
Concentrations of IBA and salicylic acid in willow
water would depend on the concentrations contained
in the original cuttings and the method of preparation.
continued on page 7
6
Willow Water
continued from page 6
I plan to test the effectiveness of willow water, my
commercial product, and no treatment at all on
cuttings of Barbados cherry (Malpighia punicifolia
L.), a plant I have found difficult to propagate. I
should have results by June’s issue of "The
Bench." I have provided a willow water recipe
below. The Internet has many variations and
concentrations. The recipe below seems to be the
consensus and the one I am using in my trials.
Willow Water
1. Gather live actively growing willow
branches no thicker than a pencil (any
species of willow will work). Strip leaves
and cut the branches/twigs into 1-inch
pieces. You will need a ratio of one cup of
pieces to brew one quart of tea. Willow is
easy to identify by the shape of its leaves
and grows abundantly in our area. Cutting
a few branches will not harm the tree.
2. Place pieces into a glass jar and pour in
boiling water (see photograph on page 6).
Steep for up to 24 hours. The liquid should
have turned into a yellow/green/brown
color with a slight medicinal odor. Strain
twigs and save willow water in a glass
container for up to two months in the
refrigerator. A sun tea method also works,
but requires a longer steeping period (four
to five sunny days).
3. Pour willow water into a small container
(cup) and place cuttings in that container
for 24 hours to allow the hormones to be
soaked up by the cuttings.
4. Plant cuttings as you usually do and water
with remaining willow water.
Photo: permaculturenews.org
7
April
CALENDAR
OF
EVENTS
Date
2nd & 4th
Saturday
nd
2 Saturday
Time
10:00 a.m.-1:00 p.m.
10:00 a.m.-1:00 p.m.
Thursday
April 9
9:00 a.m.-2:00 p.m.
Saturday
April 11
9:00-11:00 a.m.
Saturday
April 11
9:00-11:30 a.m.
Saturday
April 11
10:00 a.m.-Noon
Wednesday
April 15
10:00 a.m.-Noon
Saturday
April 18
9:00-11:00 a.m.
Sunday
April 19
9:00-11:00 a.m.
Tuesday
April 21
9:00-11:00 a.m.
Wednesday
April 22
1:00-3:00 p.m.
Event
Ask a Master Gardener – Rocky Bluff Library – 6750 US Highway 301 N., Ellenton. Visit the
Extension Master Gardener information table and get answers to your gardening questions.
Ask a Master Gardener – South Manatee Library – 6081 26th Street West, Bradenton. Visit the
Extension Master Gardener information table and get answers to your gardening questions.
Community & HOA Event – Tips on Hiring a Landscape Contractor & Other Community
Issues – Manatee County Extension and Neighborhood Services will present information to
communities and homeowner associations about issues in the landscape and other areas. For more
information and to register (required) go to https://manateepest.eventbrite.com or call Joann at
(941) 722-4524. Cost free. Lunch included.
Extension Master Gardener Plant ID Tour - Riverview Pointe Preserve - Stroll through De
Soto National Memorial and Riverview Pointe Preserve to learn more about Florida’s native plants
and inhabitants of a coastal habitat. Suitable for all ages. The hike begins in the parking area of the
De Soto National Memorial Park and enters into the Riverview Preserve at 8250 De Soto Memorial
Highway, Bradenton. Call the Extension Master Gardeners at (941) 722-4524 to register.
Digital Diagnostic Services - Do you like quick and free diagnostics for identification of something
unknown in your garden or landscape? Can you take a photograph of a plant or animal or insect in
your landscape and send it? If you answered “yes” to these questions, this workshop is for YOU!
Learn about this online service that the University of Florida offers for free to identify plants, insects,
animals, and possibly diseases in your landscape. Bring a Wi-Fi device (laptop, tablet, or smartphone) with a photo on it so you can practice sending! Register online at http://manatee.ifas.ufl.edu
or call the Extension Master Gardeners at (941) 722-4524.
Compost Happens – Home Composting Workshop - Learn to turn your kitchen scraps and yard
waste into useful soil amendments, along with details on how to set up a home compost bin.
Workshop is free. $40 Fee for compost bin. Register online at http://manatee.ifas.ufl.edu or call the
Extension Master Gardeners, (941) 722-4524.
Hydroponics for Homeowners - Do you have poor soils or limited space? Hydroponics may be
the answer for you! Learn about different types of systems, substrates, and processes to grow herbs
and vegetables without using soil. We will also show you how to scout your plants and manage
environmental, insect, and disease problems. Register online at http://manatee.ifas.ufl.edu or call
the Extension Master Gardeners, (941) 722-4524.
Extension Master Gardener Plant ID Tour – Emerson Point Preserve - Stroll through
Emerson Point Preserve to learn more about Florida’s native plants and inhabitants of a coastal
habitat. Suitable for all ages. Tour begins in tower parking area at 5801 17th Street West, Palmetto.
Call the Extension Master Gardeners to register at (941) 722-4524.
Extension Master Gardener Plant ID Tour – Robinson Preserve - Stroll through the Robinson
Preserve’s salt marshes to learn more about Florida’s native plants and inhabitants of a coastal
habitat. Suitable for all ages. Tour begins in parking area by main entrance at 1704 99th Street
Northwest, Bradenton. Call the Extension Master Gardeners at (941) 722-4524 to register.
Taking The Mystery Out of Micro-Irrigation - Come meet our newest Mobile Irrigation
Technician, Tom Funari, while he introduces you to micro-irrigation. Learn how to select, install and
operate your own water-saving irrigation system, the pros and cons, parts and pieces, and how to
put it all together. He will discuss why it is important to water shrubs and other landscape plants
separately from your lawn. This class satisfies the irrigation and landscape educational class
requirement for the Manatee County Outdoor Water Conservation Rebate Program. Register
online at http://manatee.ifas.ufl.edu or call Joann at (941) 722-4524.
Ground Covers - Plants That Work - Come join Valrie Massey, Horticulture Program Assistant, as
she presents how landscaping with low-growing ground cover plants has become a popular trend in
landscape practices because once they are established, these plants need little or no water. Learn
noteworthy plants, site considerations, and management of these plants. Register online
at http://manatee.ifas.ufl.edu or call Joann at (941) 722-4524.
University of Florida IFAS Extension - Manatee County
1303 17th St. W., Palmetto, FL 34221 Telephone: (941) 722-4524
Web site: http://manatee.ifas.ufl.edu E-mail: [email protected]
The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS) is an Equal Opportunity Institution authorized to provide research, educational information, and other services only to individuals and institutions that function
with non-discrimination with respect to race, creed, color, religion, age, disability, sex, sexual orientation, marital status, national origin, political opinions, or affiliations.