Download Report

MiniMax by Maker's
Tool Works
Manual
0 — Last update: 2015/06/29
Maker's Tool Works
Table of Contents
Getting Started ........................................................................................................................................... 1
Assembly Basics ........................................................................................................................................ 2
Plate Identification ..................................................................................................................................... 4
Wheel Primer .............................................................................................................................................. 5
T-Nut proper installation ........................................................................................................................... 8
Assembly of the Base .............................................................................................................................. 10
Assembly of the Z axis............................................................................................................................. 14
Assembly of the X axis............................................................................................................................. 20
Assembly of the Y axis............................................................................................................................. 26
Print Bed Assembly.................................................................................................................................. 34
Hotend / Carriage Assembly .................................................................................................................... 44
Electronics................................................................................................................................................ 64
Mounting Mini Rambo ........................................................................................................................... 65
Endstop Installation............................................................................................................................... 66
Stepper Motor Connections................................................................................................................... 73
Fan Connections ................................................................................................................................... 74
Thermistor Connections ........................................................................................................................ 75
PSU to Rambo Connections.................................................................................................................. 76
Bed Heater Connection ......................................................................................................................... 77
Hotend Heater Connection .................................................................................................................... 78
Downloads ................................................................................................................................................ 79
Drivers and Firmware ............................................................................................................................ 80
Software ............................................................................................................................................... 87
STL Files .............................................................................................................................................. 88
Bringing the MiniMax Online ................................................................................................................... 89
Bed Leveling ......................................................................................................................................... 90
Glass Treatment ................................................................................................................................... 91
Optional Prints ...................................................................................................................................... 92
Installing Acrylic Cover Plates ............................................................................................................... 93
Trouble Shooting Guide ........................................................................................................................ 94
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Getting Started
We would like to thank you for the purchase of the MiniMax 3D printer.
The following build manual will be broken into several sections. Where required we will try and note areas
that will make the build easier or areas where special attention needs to be paid so as not to damage one of
your kit parts.
If you have any questions during the assembly, please don’t hesitate to let us know. You can submit support
tickets via our help desk or you can get near-real-time support in our online web chat.
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Assembly Basics
Your kit includes all of the printed parts to get the machine functioning, however there are several printed
parts you will print yourself to complete the machine ( Foot Mounts, filament guide tube clamp, Fan mount ).
There are also optional files available for you to print for alternate fan mounts as well as cable chain for the
Y carriage assembly.
You will need the following tools to complete your assembly:
• Metric Hex (Allen) Keys in the following sizes:
◦ 1.5mm
◦ 2mm
◦ 2.5mm
◦ 3mm
◦ 4mm
• 8mm wrench
• 10mm wrench
• Pliers
• Wire Strippers
• Needle Nose Pliers
• Scissors
• Razor Knife
Listed below are tools that may be needed if you run into problems.
• Multimeter to read AC/DC voltage as well as resistance
• Drill
• Small Metal File
• Vise
While not needed to complete the build a digital caliper to measure filament is very handy, Filament
diameter can vary from manufacture to manufacture and using the calipers will allow better tuning of the
printer.
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Seeing the entire assembly and being able to visualize how the parts go together
will make the assembly process much easier. To do that, you can use this 3d PDF
of the model. You will need to use the genuine Adobe Acrobat Reader to see the
3d model, it will not work in most 3rd party readers.
Throughout this manual you will see us use the term level. This “level” is not to be confused with level as in
a carpenters bubble type level. We use the term level as it relates to a plane, typically the horizontal plane
that the moving X axis moves along. What matters is that the various planes are all square to one
another, it is not actually critical that they be level to the ground or any other surface.
The MiniMax is considered a Cartesian style printer:
• The bed moves left to right in the X axis.
• The extruder moves forward and back in the Y axis.
• The Y axis assembly moves up and down in the Z axis.
The assembly of the MiniMax is fairly forgiving. If you miss a step or miss installing a part there should be
no more than a few screws to remove to correct the area in question.
The vast majority of the kit is assembled with M5-8 screws using a single washer on the screw before
insertion into a plate. Areas where we use another screw size or a different washer count will be called out
in notes for that section.
Please read the entire section before you begin the section. Many times there are pictures further into
the build that may help you understand better overall.
Most pictures in the build documents can be zoomed in on by clicking.
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Plate Identification
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Wheel Primer
*
The Wheel manufacturer provides a tutorial video on how to assemble the V
Wheels:
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Javascript.</h1></div>
*
Note that there are a couple changes from that video: The eccentric spacers no
longer have the divot they mention, and they do not talk about the spacer shims
that our kits need in some places.
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Wheel Adjustment
The wheels for the X,Y,Z axis will need to be adjusted to work properly. You will need to think of the wheels
in pairs. The wheel opposite of the wheel with a cam is a pair. For the Z plate wheels, the top front and back
wheels would be a pair, and the bottom front and back are the other pair. All the other axis will need to be
thought of in the same manner.
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To adjust the tension you will use a 10mm wrench to rotate the eccentric cam by turning. If you cannot get
the wheels to install into the V slot extrusion, keep turning the cam until it does. As you turn the cam it will
push or pull the wheel closer to the wheel across from it. To achieve proper adjustment, put the wrench on
the cam and start rotating in one direction. While doing this you will use your other hand to try to rotate the
wheels of the pair. When both wheels of the pair will just barely slip against the extrusion you have the
proper amount of tension. Do this same process for all wheel pairs.
We have provided Polycarbonate wheels in your kit to give the best wear resistance. However the wheels
may require adjustment over time due to wear, and if the tension adjustment is too tight, the wear will be
more. Anticipate that you will need to readjust the tension of the wheels after about 10 hours of print time.
This first adjustment is required due to the wheels needing to conform to the exact angle of the V rail
extrusions. Once the break-in adjustment is complete you should rarely have to adjust the wheels further.
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T-Nut proper installation
*
All three types of t-nuts with a few exceptions are used to attach plates and parts to
the extrusions.
• To attach the metal plates to the “side” of an extrusion we use T Nuts slid into the extrusion as in the
picture below. If the plate attaches to the end of an extrusion the extrusion will be tapped to accept a
screw and no T nut is required.
• The T-nuts are installed with the protrusion toward the extrusions. The kit may include the following
type of T-nut as well. This is called a post install nut and is very handy when you forget to get a T-nut
in an extrusion. This T-nut can be installed at any time.
• There are three types of T-Nuts that may be included with your kit (Shown in picture 2). Either the
Blue or Purple can be used for general asssembly (the ends of the purple t-nuts may or may not
be tapered).
• The Green (middle) box shows a Post Install T-Slot Nut that you can place the T-nut into the
extrusion and roll into place until the the small roller balls centers on the groove in the center of the
extrusion.These allow you to add a nut after you have installed a particular extrusion.
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The picture showing the T nuts installed in the extrusion shows the correct way to
install them and is highlighted. Method circled in RED is the Wrong way.
There are two common ways to screw the plates to the extrusion with T nuts.
1. Install the T nut into the extrusion in the approximate location that it will be needed. You can use an Allen
wrench to push the T nut into place from the side and then finally from the hole in the plate to get it aligned
to accept the screw.
2. Place the screw into the plate using washers if needed on the screw head side and then spin a T nut onto
the screw only a turn or two. You can then align the T nut so it slides into the V slot channel. Move the plate
into place and tighten the T nut.
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Assembly of the Base
1. Begin base assembly by locating the long extrusion, one of the short extrusions, two lower side
plates, lower front plate, T nuts, M5 × 8mm Low Profile SHCS, and M5 washers.
2. Install the Z motor mount plate to the short extrusion as shown below.
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3. Place one M5 washer on a M5 × 8mm Low Profile SHCS and place into one of the 5mm holes of the
lower side plate. on the back side install a T nut onto the screw. Do this for all 4 screw locations on
both lower side plates. Use the following pictures to help with orientation.
4. Slide the lower side plate onto the long extrusion and finger tighten the two screws. Now slide the
shorter extrusion onto the lower side plate and again finger tighten the screws. Repeat this process
for the plate on the opposite side.
5. Align the lower side plate to the back of the long extrusion and tighten the screws that attach the plate
to the long extrusion. Repeat this for the opposite side.
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6. Install the short extrusion with the Z motor mount plate facing up to the lower side plates. After sliding
the short extrusion into place use the supplied wrench in the slot as show to set the proper spacing
before we tighten the screws Make sure that the motor mount plate touches the long extrusion. This
will ensure that the leadscrew installed in a later section will have the proper alignment.
7. Install the front base plate using two M5 × 8mm Low Profile SHCS with one washer on each.
!
Note: This picture shows the X Axis mounting plate installed, however it should not
be installed until a later step.
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8. Use a small carpenters square in the corner where the Long Z extrusion connects to the base
extrusion. Loosen the 4 screws holding the base extrusion to the side plate and push the square into
the corner of these two extrusions. When you are square tighten the screws. Verify the base
extrusion is square “90 degrees” to the Z extrusion. If this is not square your printer will print
objects slanted.
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Assembly of the Z axis
The Z axis is the section of the printer the moves in the up / down direction. Begin by locating the following:
Short Extrusion 300mm
Very Short Extrusion 60mm
Two Z Plates
X Motor Mount Plate
Two Z Spacer Plates
8 Poly Carb Wheels
4 Eccentrics for the wheels
4 M8 washers
1 Printed Z spacer
1. Please read this entire section before beginning assembly. There are several gotcha’s in this section.
2. Install the wheels and the 60mm extrusion to the Z plates. Please Note the Following :
3. The 60mm extrusion must be installed before wheels and the* printed spacer* is installed on one side.
The side with the spacer will use M5-10 screws with a single washer, the opposite side will use a
M5-8 with a single washer. The spacer is difficult to see mounted in the pictures but it will be the
3.5mm thick piece with two holes that match the spacing in the plate.
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4. The Z plate with the bend at the top must mount to the right side of the printer when viewing from the
front, with the bend facing out as shown in the following pictures.
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It cannot be seen from the pictures above but after you have installed the short extrusion to the back of the
Z carriage you will need to install the last two wheels to the rear above the short extrusion. These wheels
will use the eccentrics.
5. Adjust the wheels as outlined in the Wheel Primer Section and slide the Z section onto the long
extrusion and adjust the wheel tension as detailed in the wheel primer.
6. We will now install the short extrusion to the two Z plates. First place a Z spacer plate on the inside of
the Z plate and use a M5 × 8mm Low Profile SHCS— do not use a washer — inserted through the
holes and tread a T nut on the screw on the back side. Do this for all 4 screw holes. Slide the Short
Extrusion onto the T nuts and roughly level the extrusion. Install the supplied wrench into the slot
similar to how we did the extrusion in the base assembly to set the distance and tighten the 4 screws.
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7. You can now remove the Z section to make the next steps easier.
8. Next we will install the Z isolation printed part. This piece mounts to the bottom of the Y extrusion
using 2 M5-25 screws with “NO” washer and 2 T nuts. The printed part has a totally flat side. This side
will face down when the Z is properly installed on the machine. There is lip on the printed part that will
be be pushed against the extrusion before you tighten the two screws.
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9. Set the Z assembly aside to make future steps easier to complete.
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Assembly of the X axis
The X axis on your Minimax printer is the section that moves left / right and is what the print bed is attached
to.
1. Install the X connection plate as shown below. You will use M5-8 screws with a single washer. You
will have to temporarily remove the front base plate to install the required 4 Tnuts. Align the sides of
the plate to the base extrusion and tighten.
2. Install the M5-8 screws with a single washer and T Nuts into the X plate as shown below.
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3. Install the X 300mm long extrusion by sliding it over the T nuts prepared if the previous step.
4. Install the X motor Mount Plate to the right hand side of the X extrusion. The supplied X motor plate
may have the bend facing the wrong direction, if so turn the plate where bend faces down. This
may place the bent section on the right hand side instead of the left. The plate will mount to the
back side of this plate. The bend on this plate will need to face down. Using the method of the screw
and T nut installed on the motor mount plate and sliding into place will be the easiest or you can flip
the assembly and install the T nuts into the slot first. The edge of the motor mount plate will align with
the edge of the extrusion as seen below..
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5. Prepare the two printed parts that attach to the ends of the X extrusion by removing the support
plastic at the rounded end. Using pliers to crush the plastic works well. If there is any plastic flashing
left at the end carefully remove it with razor knife.Also carefully remove the thin layer of plastic
blocking the holes. Take care to only remove enough plastic to let the button head M5 screw pass.
Using pliers to crush the plastic works well. If there is any plastic flashing left at the end carefully
remove it with razor knife.
6. Install two bearings and 3 washers into this space. You will use a M5 washer on the top and bottom
and another washer between the bearings as shown below. You will use an button head M5-20 screw
and a M5 Nut to secure the idler bearing into the printed part. The printed part has a location for a nut
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only on one side. Ignore this nut hole. The rounded screw heads are to face up when the part is
mounted.
7. Attach one X idler assemblies to either side of the X extrusion using 3 M5-8 screws. No washer are
required while installing this printed part into the extrusion. Leave on bearing assembly off for the time
being. It will remain off until we install the bed in a later section of the build. The bearings for both
ends will face the rear of the machine.
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At this stage of the build we recommend installing the Power Supply. Install the two plates to the power
supply with 4 m4-6 flat head screws as shown below. Also install 4 m5-10 screws with T nuts as shown.
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Select the voltage for your country. Make sure you do this before plugging the supply or you can damage
your power supply and controller board. Switch shown below.
Install the high voltage cable to the power supply. You will need a grounded electrical cord. Connect the
black wire to L, the White wire to N, and the Green wire to GND.
remove the front base plate if you have it installed and slide the power supply under the lower extrusion.
once installed tighten the 4 screws attaching the power supply and install the front base plate.
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Assembly of the Y axis
1. We will start the Y assembly by first installing the Z stepper motor using 4 m3-6 screws.
2. Turn the leadnut onto the leadscrew. You should be able to turn the nut with just two fingers. If the nut
is tight you can chuck the leadscrew in a drill and run the drill forwards and backwards until the nut
turns smoothly.
3. Next we will install the leadscrew to the Z motor. You will use the supplied helical coupler and the
small set screws that it comes with. One side of the helical attaches to the motor, the other side will
attach to the leadscrew.
4. Install the leadscrew, and make sure the stepper motor shaft touches the leadscrew inside the
coupler. Doing so prevents compression in the coupler which can hurt print quality.
5. Next install 3 M3 × 8mm screws with nuts as shown on the leadscrew nut. These screw heads on the
top of the leadscrew nut will fit into the 3 holes of the Z isolator that is attached to the Z section we
completed earlier. This is a friction fit and is designed to just set on the leadnut. Gravity will keep the
Z in place.
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6. The Y axis is the extrusion assembly that the carriage holding the hotend moves forwards and
backwards. Most of this assembly was completed during the Z assembly section.
7. Start by installing the wheels on the carriage plate. Pay close attention to the pictures below so you
will mount the wheels on the proper side of the X carriage plate. The eccentric is installed in the larger
hole on the plate.
8. Locate two laser cut plastic pieces with 2 3mm holes cut in them and two matching metal pieces.
These mount to the wheel side of the carriage plate as shown below. Use M3 × 12mm screws to
mount these.
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9. The Y axis has two idler pulley assemblies, one at the back near the vertical Z axis extrusion, and one
at the front end. The belt wraps around these and goes to the Y motor we installed earlier.
10. Install the first Idler assembly onto the Y extrusion. The Idler assembly consists of one M5-20 screw,
4 M5 washers, the idler plate, and 1 T nut. Assemble as shown in the exploded diagram below..
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11. Slide the idler assembly to the back left corner of the Y extrusion and tighten.
12. Adjust the cam wheel on the Carriage Plate so you can easily slide the carriage onto the Y extrusion.
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13. Install a second Idler assembly as outlined above to the front left side of the Y extrusion.
Install the Y motor mount using 3 M5-8 screws with 2 washers and 3 T nuts. The mount will be installed to
the back of the Y extrusion as shown below. If the bend of your motor plate is on the opposite side
mount the Y motor plate further back. Locate the edge of the plate 6mm from the back end of the
extrusion.
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Install the Y stepper motor as shown below. Install the pulley to the motor shaft using the two supplied
setscrews.
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Route the Y belt around the two idler bearing assemblies and the motor pulley and attach to the carriage as
shown. Note the small plastic spacer stays next to the carriage plate, the belt is inserted between the plastic
spacer and the metal holding clip. Do not trim the spare belt. route it through the holes like shown and curl it
up out of the way. We will not trim the belts until the machine is moving under power.
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Print Bed Assembly
1. Begin by installing 4 m3-18 screws into the thread hole of the bed plate from the bottom.There are two
threaded holes at each location it is not critical which hole you use just make all 4 locations match.
Note: to identify the top of the bed plate locate the tab in the middle of one side and have it face you,
then locate the round hole to one side of the plate and flip the plate so that the hole is to the right.
After doing the above the side that is facing up is the top of the bed plate.
2. Included in the kit are 4 small brass inserts. These are installed into the 4 printed parts as shown
below. Install the small square rubber pads into the square section of this printed part. If for any
reason the inserts get pulled out of the plastic when you are installing the glass hold down clips you
can re install and use a soldering iron to heat the insert and melt it into the plastic.
3. Install the 4 printed parts as shown below using m3-18 screws. The screws to mount the printed parts
is inserted from the top. Note that each of these screws will also have a short spring located between
the printed part and the bed plate. As you tighten the screw it will compress the spring. Adjust the
screw so the springs are approximately 50% compressed. Install two M5-xxx screw from the top of the
bed plate into the threaded holes of the bed plate. Once the screws are installed place a M5 Nut on
each screw and tighten. This gives extra support for these two screws that will be used for belt
attachment.
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4. Install three wheels into the bed plate. For all three wheels we want the screw head to be on the
bottom next to the wheel. The nut for the wheel will install on the top. The picture below shows how
the bed plate should look as viewed from the bottom.
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5. Install the bed heater to the bottom of the heat spreader. The heat spreader is a 8”×9” flat aluminum.
To best center the bed heater lay the heater on top of the heat spreader centered. Mark the edges
with a fine marker or pencil. Remove the backing from the heater and carefully stick the heater to the
heat spreader starting at one end and working to the other. Use a plastic scraper moving from the
center to the edges to remove any large air bubbles.
6. Install the rubber grommet in the hole in the Bed Plate.
7. Route the cables from the heated bed through the grommet. Loosely ziptie the cables to the bed plate
as shown.
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8. Center the glass on to the printed glass holders then install the glass on top of the spreader. Install
the glass clips to secure the glass is held in place.
9. For the next step you may find it easier to remove the X extrusion installed earlier. This can be done
by removing the 4 screws on the top of the plate that hold the plate and extrusion to the base
extrusion.
10. Slide the bed assembly onto the extrusion then install the X stepper motor with the plastic spacer
shaped like the motor to the motor bracket. Move the motor as close to the extrusion in the slotted
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mounting holes as possible before you tighten the screws. Once the bed is in place install the X idler
bearing assembly we build from an earlier step. Install the geared tooth pulley onto the X motor shaft.
Install with the alen set screws for the pulley to the bottom.
11. Make a loop in one end of the belt as show below. This is completed with two zipties. We need
enough of a hole in the loop to be able to slide the belt over a M5 screw.
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12. Slide the looped end of the belt over the screw as show below. Then thread the belt threw the bearing
assembly.
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13. Route the belt around the pulley and then through the X idler assembly and secure the belt to the
other M5 screw with two zipties as show below.
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14. You will now install this assembly back to the base frame extrusion. Install at about the halfway point
we will fine adjust its exact location once the hotend section is complete and installed. Loosen the two
screws on the bottom of the X extrusion to slide the X left or right so that the X motor is about 1mm
from the power supply. Once this distance is set tighten those two screws.
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Hotend / Carriage Assembly
We will begin the assembly of the Hotend section by installing the Aluminum Hotend Block to the Y carriage
plate. Install the block to the plate using 2 3m-10 screws. The screws go in the two larger holes on the front
of the block.
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Install the two set screws into the hotend block. Tighten these screws all the way in as shown for the screw
on the left. Do this for both the left and right setscrew.
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Assembly the tension lever arm for the exttruder as pictured below. The lever arm will consist of two arm
side plates, two X-5 plates, 3mm bearing, 3mm washer, 2 3mm-6 button head screws, 1 m5-16 tension
screw. 1 m3-18 screw, and the printed center core.
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Install the small X-5 plate and T nut onto a M5-16 screw.
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Install one of the side plates to the printed core with a m3-6 button head screw. Please note which side of
the core the plate attaches to as detailed in the picture below.
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Place the Screw T nut assembly as shown into the void area of the printed core. Place the second X-5 plate
on top of the screw head. Zoom in on the picture if you need more detail for the installation of these parts.
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Install the second side plate again using a m3-6 button head screw. Note the side plates have slot to
receive the X-5 plates on each side. These slots hold the X-5 in place.
Install the m3-18 screw into the side plate. Note the head of the screw is the opposite side of the bearing
location. Once the screw is just producing from the plastic of the printed install the bearing and continue
screwing the m3-18. As the screw exits the bearing install the washer and complete the installation of the
screw. At this time install the m3-nut as shown in the picture below. Do not over tighten the nut. The bearing
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must turn freely.
Install the printed extruder body to the stepper motor using 3 m3-6 button head screws. Orient the stepper
to the housing so that the cable from the motor exits from the top. Note: no screw goes in the empty hole in
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the picture below until a later step.
Install the Printed Extruder body / stepper motor assembly to the carriage with 2 m3-8 screws as shown
below. (ignore the lever arm in the picture it will be install in a latter step.
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Install the bottom part of the Printed Extruder body to the Aluminum hotend block with a m3-18 as shown
below.
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If you have install the hob onto the stepper motor shaft remove it for the following steps. As show in the
picture attach the Tension Arm assembly to the extruder body with a m3-28 screw. From the top of the lever
arm there is hole to access the top of the m5-16 screw we installed earlier. With an allen wrench turn this
screw counter clockwise to move the T nut all the way up as shown in the picture below.
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Install the spring over the m5-16 screw as shown below. Make sure the bottom of the spring is installed with
the center of the spring over the retaining bump on the extruder body.
Squeeze the lever arm using your finger and thumb. I prefer to use my thumb on top of the lever and my
finger gripping the protruding plastic just below the location of the spring. While you have the lever arm
compressed insert the hob on the to stepper motor shaft. You will need to align the flat side of the motor
shaft so that it faces the spring. This will be required so you can tighten the set screw on the hob in the
follow step.
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Again squeeze the lever arm and look down the small hole on top of the lever arm. The hole is the one
closest to the carriage plate. We want to center the knurled part of the hob with this hole for proper filament
travel. Note the location of the hob on the shaft while doing this and tighten the the hob set screw as shown
in the picture below.
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Mount the printed extruder body housing to the carriage plate using m5- xx screws Attach the extruder body
to the Aluminum Hotend block using m3-xx. Attach the stepper motor to the plastic housing using 3 3m-6
screws. Note that the top/back hole at this stage does not receive a screw. This hole will be used later when
installing the tension lever arm.
Assemble the Hotend as outline with the video and pictures below.
We now need to screw out the 3m setscrews that we installed in the hotend block that we did in an earlier
step. Unscrew these so none of the setscrew is in the 16mm hole of the hotend block. Install your hotend
assembly. You want the the top of the hotend to align with the top of the hotend block then tighten the set
screws to lock the e3d v6 hotend in place.
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Cut a piece of the provided wire loom and route the fan, thermisitor, e3d fan, and heater cartridge cable
through the loom. Leave the stepper motor cable outside the loom if you wish to install cable chain later. To
keep the wire loom from fraying you can use a zip tie, tape, or heatshrink.
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A typical cable routing for the extruder section. You can install a printed or purchased cable chain over
these cables at a later time.
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Using a zip tie attach the wire loom and stepper motor cable to the hole located to the top back of the Z
plate as shown.
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You can temporarily install the fan using zip ties as shown. The permanent fan mount is a user printed part
and can be found in the links section at the beginning of this document.
We can now install the belt for the Y axis. You will use 4 m3-10 screws , 4 m3 nuts, two small plastic
spacers, and two metal clamping pieces. The belt will route around both of the bearing idlers and the pulley
on the Y motor. The belt is inserted behind the metal piece and the screws are tightened. Do this for both
sides. Pull the slack out of the belt as you tighten the second clamp.
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We are going to preset the filament tension. On the top of the idler arm there is an access hole to the m5
screw that attaches to the T nut. Turn this screw counter clockwise to make the T nut lower in the little
window until it looks like the picture below. We want it roughly 2-3mm down from the top.
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Electronics
Mount the rambo bracket to the lower rear of the printer as shown. This will require 2 m5-8 screws and two
m5- Tnut. Using the white spacers provided mount the rambo to the bracket with 4 m3-12 screws.
X Endstop
Y Endstop
Z Endstop
.
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Mounting Mini Rambo
The kit is provided with a laser cut acrylic plate that is the Mini Rambo mounting plate. This plate mounts to
the Z extrusion at the back of the machine. You will use install the plate to the extrusion with m5-8 screws
and T nuts.
Mount the mini rambo to the plate using 4 m3-16 screws, 4 white plastic spacers, 8 m3 washers and 4 m3
nuts.
Installation order per each screw will be : screw – rambo -white spacer – 2 3mm washers – mounting plate –
3mm nut.
Ensure that the back of the mini rambo board clears the mounting screws of the plate. We do not want the
rambo to short against the two screws behind the board.
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Endstop Installation
X Endstop
Will installed under the right side of the extrusion that the bed moves on. You can remove the printed
bearing holder and insert a T nut or use of the provided post install nuts. The bed carriage wheel on the
front right hand side is what we want the limit switch to be tripped by. Note the washers added to the
mounting screw.
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Y endstop
Will be mounted to the bottom of the the extrusion that the hotend carriage rides on. This printed part will
need to be modified to get the most travel as possible in the Y direction. Cut the end of the printed part off at
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the hole.
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Install the assembly into the center slot position of the 2060 extrusion. We are wanting the wheel to make
the switch “click” when it is at full range of travel.
Z Endstop
The switch was mounted earlier on the right hand lower side plate. If you missed this you can still install the
switch by using a pair of needle nose to hole the m2 nut or you can temporarily remove the Z motor & plate
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by removing two screws. Locate the printed printed part and a m3-16 screw as shown below.
This printed part and screw will mount to the right hand Z plate using m3 screws and nuts.
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The cable are connected to the switches to the two outside terminals. We don not use the center terminal on
the switch.
The plug end of the limit switches are plugged into the “min” X,Y,Z positions on the mini rambo controller as
shown. Make sure you have the proper axis plugged into the proper x,y,z position or you will crash an axis
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in future steps when you bring the system online.
Make sure you can hear the micro switch click on the X and Y axis as the axis reaches its limit of travel. You
may have to slightly bend the metal lever of the micro switch on the X axis to get it to trip properly. The Y
axis mounted with a single screw may need the whole printed part / switch assembly rotated to ensure that
the switch trips at the end of travel. When you are getting a click on each of these axis tighten the mounting
screws down.
We will address the proper setup of the Z axis in the document section of bringing the MiniMax online.
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Stepper Motor Connections
The 4 stepper motors will install to the plug openings pictured below. The X is from the motor that moves
the bed left and right. The Y is from the motor that moves the hotend carriage front to back. The Z is the
motor that turns the leadscrew and moves the Z up and down. There are two Z motor connection points you
may chose either Z plug position E is the motor that drives the extruder.
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Fan Connections
There are two fans supplied in the kit. The 40mm print cooling fan and the 30mm e3d barrel cooling fan.
These fans come with a white connector installed to the ends. These connectors will need to be cut off and
the wires stripped of insulation. Supplied with the kit are cables that have a black and red wire and a black
plug. Strip the insulation off of these 4 wires.
Take the red wire from the 40mm fan and twist it to the red wire of the new plug. Take the black wire of the
40mm fan and twist it to the black wire of the new plug. Insert the twisted red set of wires into the provided
crimp connector make sure no bare wire is exposed. Using pliers squeeze on the crimp connector. Repeat
this same process for the rest of the fan cables.
The 40mm fan will plug into fan1 position shown below. The 30mm ed3 fan will connect to fan2.
Note!!!!! The red wire must go to the side marked + in the picture. and the black must to to the –
side. If you get this polarity backwards you will destroy your fans and possibly your controller
board. Triple check these connections. If you make an error and connect the fans wrong and destroy them
they are available in the MTW store for sale.
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Thermistor Connections
The thermistor from the hotend plugs into the port labeled T0. Be extremely careful you install these cable in
the proper port or you can damage your hotend and possibly your controller. The thermistor from the bed
plugs into port T2. ((( Port T1 is not used.)))
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PSU to Rambo Connections
Supplied in the kit are two larger pieces of cable that are similar in size to lamp cord. These cables have a
black and red side to them. The black wires attach to the power supply to the “ – “ and the red wires will go
to the “ + “ . In the rambo box there are screw terminals. Install these into the plug holes shown below. Once
installed connect one set of cables black and red to one of the screw terminals. Repeat this for the other
cable in the remaining terminal. The board is clearly marked which screw gets the ( + red wire ) and the (black wire ).
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Bed Heater Connection
The bed heater will attach to the bed heater posistion using screw terminal connectors. Polarity of the
cables for this connection do not matter. The bed heater will be the two lower terminals as detailed in the
picture. The board is labeled bed for this connection.
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Hotend Heater Connection
The hotend heater cartridge of the e3d V6 will attach to the two top terminals labeled extruder pictured
below. Polarity for this connection does not matter. The text on the board for this connection is labeled
extruder.
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Downloads
• MiniMax Drivers & Firmware
• Required Software
• MiniMax STL Files
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Drivers and Firmware
• Download:
1. Arduino IDE
2. Drivers (only necessary for Windows at this time) for RAMBo.
3. Firmware
4. Unzip all files
*
Arduino is an application used to modify, compile, and upload the firmware to the
print RAMBo controller.
*
Marlin is the firmware that is running on the print controller, interpreting instructions
and powering the different parts of the printer
*
Using the GLCD on RAMBo requires a special arduino build
*
If using Windows, it is necessary to first install the RAMBo driver that you
previously downloaded.
• Installing RAMBo Driver
1. Attach the RAMBo to the computer via the USB cable.
2. Open Device Manager
3. Under Other devices, look for RAMBo
4. Right click RAMBo and select Update Driver Software
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5. Click Browse my computer for driver software, then click the Browse… button and browse to the
directory where you have unzipped the RAMBo drivers, click OK, and then click Next
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6. Taking note of the COM port listed in the title of the window, click close
• Uploading the Marlin firmware using Arduino to your print controller
1. Provide 24v to all the inputs on the Print controller.
2. Open the previously-downloaded Arduino application by clicking on arduino.exe.
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3. Select File: Open. Browse into the directory that you extracted your firmware, then in the Marlin folder,
then selecting the file Marlin.pde or Marlin.ino (whichever exists)
4. Select Tools: Board: Arduino Mega 2560
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5. Select Tools: Serial Port: and then the port that you noted earlier when installing drivers
6. Select the Configuration.h tab, here you can review and change all the common settings and tuning
changes.
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!
*
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If the leadscrews in your kit came with a black delrin nut, you will need to change
the Z motor steps in Configuration.h from 400 to 800, in the line #define
DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,400,250}
If you are running linux you need to change the firmware setting in Configuration.h
to #define BAUDRATE 115200
7. Press the Upload button.
8. Check to see if the upload succeeded; if not, troubleshoot the board type, com port, and firmware
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Software
Arduino IDE
• arduino.cc
Repetier Host Windows only
• Version 1.0.6
◦ Repetier User Guide
Printrun
• www.pronterface.com/
Slic3r
• slic3r.org
◦ Slic3r configurations bundle
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STL Files
MiniMax STLs < click link
Also be sure to check our file sharing site for user-contributed MiniMax upgrades at
share.makerstoolworks.com
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Bringing the MiniMax Online
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Bed Leveling
The video below goes over the process to properly level the MiniMax bed.
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Glass Treatment
To keep your prints adhered to the glass:
1. Glass treatment for printing with PLA Filament
2. Glass treatment for printing with ABS Filament
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Optional Prints
To trick out your Minimax printer we suggest printing the following files once you can print simple objects
like the test cube well.
Power Supply Terminal Cover:
We strongly recommend printing this object. It will minimize the chance of you accidentally touching the high
voltage connection on the located on the back of the PSU.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:119109
Spool Holder:
We list a a laser cut spool holder for the Minimax in our store but if you wish to print one the linked one
works fairly well.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:413362
The following files can be found in the STL download from the document section labeled “STL Files “ There
are several user printed parts in this downward.
Feet Brackets. Allows you to install the rubber feet supplied with the kit.
Filament Guide Tube Clamp. Is a printed part that attaches the guide tube to the top of the Z extrusion and
routes the filament from your spool to the extruder without any tension being applied to the Y axis.
Cable Chain. We offer two file sets for the chain. One is you print the ends only and purchase factory cable
chain from our store at this link. The second is a fully printed cable chain.
MiniRambo Electronics Cover. This print provides a cover for the electronics mounted to the back of the Z
and helps provide some cable management.
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Installing Acrylic Cover Plates
Install the provided extrusion plates to the ends of the Z extrusion and the Y arm extrusion with 3 M5-8
screws and washers.
Remove the front metal foot of the printer. Align the “Makers Tool Works” acrylic plate over the metal foot
plate and re-install.
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Trouble Shooting Guide
The following will help with the most common problems you may encounter with your MiniMax printer. If you
still cannot correct your problem you can contact us via the help desk on our main web page or in our IRC
chat room. This will be broken down into several sections Power issues and print issues we will touch on as
to how the mechanical or electrical can effect the print quality.
Power:
The MiniMax does nothing:
Check for a led on the mini rambo next to the USB connector. If you have power to the mini rambo skip
section a and b below.
a. Check the power supply there should be a led on the back of the power supply make sure this led is on. If
there is no led make sure the power cable is plugged into the outlet and verify the outlet has power.
b. If the power supply led is on verify the wiring from the power supply to the mini rambo. The + on the
power supply must go to the + on the mini rambo. If you have gotten this backwards then you have a good
chance that you have blown fuses on the mini rambo. These are automotive type fuses and are available
from many sources. To properly test the fuse you will need an ohm meter. Inexpensive ones can be
purchased at almost any hardware or automotive store.
The MiniMax has power but I cannot communicate:
To properly communicate with the Minimax you must first install the firmware and drivers linked in the
download section of the manual. When downloading firmware make sure at the bottom of the Arduino
software screen it says “ Upload Complete” and there are no errors.
We have found the USB3 ports found on many new computers have issues. Most computers have USB2
ports you will need to check your computer manual to verify.
Mac’s seem to do ok with running the slice and control software but there can be issues uploading the
firmware. If you are having upload issues try to us a PC to upload.
Print problems:
PLA Printed plastic will not stick to the glass:
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a. You must treat the glass with the glue/water solution as in the video link in the “bringing the MiniMax
Online” or an Elmers Purple glue stick. Bare glass does not work well as a print bed.
b. For PLA make sure the bed temperature is 60C.
c. Z height is to high. You need to make sure the tip of the hotend is barely touching the glass or no more
than the thickness of a sheet of newspaper above it.
d. If the print sticks in one area but not in another it is most likely bed level. Perform the bed level procedure
as in the video.
The printed part has rough sides that are random in the Z direction. Several things can cause this
issue.
a. Loose hotend. Tighten the setscrews that hold the hotend in place.
b. Loose wheels on the Carriage plate, follow instructions on proper wheel adjustment in the Wheel Primer
Section.
c. Loose wheels on the X / print bed, follow instructions on proper wheel adjustment in the Wheel Primer
Section.
d. Inconsistent filament diameter (normally only an issue with cheap filament )
e. Tension not adjusted on the extruder lever arm and is allowing skipping.
*The printed part has repeating patterns every 2mm in the Z direction. *
a. The wheels in the Z carriage assembly are to tight, follow instructions on proper wheel adjustment in the
Wheel Primer Section. When properly adjusted there should be virtually no banding.
The printed part is a circle and it is printing lopsided.
a. Belt tension needs to be adjusted. Adjust belt to when you pluck it like a guitar string there is a very low
bass note. If when plucked it goes “thud” the belt is to loose.
b. Loose wheels on the bed assembly, follow instructions on proper wheel adjustment in the Wheel Primer
Section.
Extruder is making a clicking noise when I manually extrude from the control panel.
a. Temperature of the hotend is to cold for the plastic being used. ( If using our PLA 200C and if using our
ABS 225C are good starting points)
b. Tension not adjust properly. ( Pla tension should be set as per the manual in the Extruder assembly
section, ABS is softer an may need to be set to a lower tension )
c. The speed you are trying to extrude at is to fast. The values given in the control programs is for moving
the filament a specified distance. It does not take into account the nozzle size.
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