Beauty | Infrared www.fht.org.uk Types of infrared equipment In the beauty therapy industry, there are two types of heat radiation treatments – infrared, generated by non-luminous lamps, and radiant heat from luminous lamps. The difference between infrared and radiant heat treatments is the way they induce warmth in the part of the body being treated and the depth the rays penetrate into the skin. With radiant heat, the reddening effect on the skin is caused by heating, while with infrared the reddening effect is due to an irritant reaction called erythema, as there is little direct heating of the skin. Radiant heat penetrates into the dermis but infrared reaches no further than the living layers of the epidermis. There are numerous types and models of infrared lamps and, in practice, most can be either non-luminous or luminous, depending on the voltage at which they operate and, therefore, the temperature they reach. For this reason, heat lamps should only be operated by therapists who are qualified to NVQ Beauty Therapy Level 3 and have been taught or diligently read the manufacturer’s instructions about using the lamp appropriately and safely. Three of the most common types of infrared lamps are: l Fireclay heat lamps Used in pairs, these older heat lamps can be switched to operate with very little glow. They include a fireclay support with a Nichrome heating element wound around it. As infrared the bulbs in each fireclay lamp are connected ‘in series’, which means the voltage is distributed between each of the bulbs, thus reducing the lamps’ glow and overall power output. If the bulbs are connected ‘in parallel’, each bulb receives the same voltage and therefore the power output is increased, the lamp glows and radiant heat is produced. Other types of fireclay lamp include one where the heating element is completely embedded in the clay with no visible glow at all. l Steel tube lamp Consisting of a steel tube containing a Nichrome element, the space between the element and the tube is packed with magnesium oxide powder, providing thermal insulation. The elements are usually mounted in a half-cylindrical reflector. The bulbs are connected in series, giving infrared rays. l Filament lamps These are similar to large lighting lamps with a built-in reflector, with red tinted glass that cuts down the light output while letting out the heat rays. It is essentially a radiant heat lamp, but can be adjusted to a predominantly infrared output if it is fitted with a dimmer switch. The red tinted glass, as well as reducing light output, indicates that the lamp is in use, as infrared light is not visible. 22 | International Therapist Shedding light on the problem Angela Barbagelata-Fabes explains some of the beauty applications of infrared Distance, angle and intensity When treating a client with an infrared lamp there are two factors other than the output of the lamp that govern the intensity of the rays received on the skin. These are the distance between the lamp and the skin, and the angle at which the rays strike the skin. The formula to calculate the intensity of the rays means that if you double the distance from the lamp to the skin, the intensity falls to a quarter, but if you halve the distance, the intensity is four times greater. Normally, the lamp is placed 45 to 60 centimetres from the skin, but the exact distance should be established once the lamp is fully warmed up and should never be too close for comfort. To get the correct dose from an infrared lamp it is important that, as far as possible, the rays strike at right angles to the skin. Infrared waves goodbye to cellulite In order to reduce cellulite the body needs to eliminate stored waste and fluid retention should be prevented where possible. A good diet should be advocated, as well as regular exercise to increase metabolism. Infrared penetrates the epidermis only, Issue 89 | July/August 2009 Infrared | Beauty What is infrared? Infrared is an invisible light , forming part of the electromagnetic spectrum (below). Although we cannot see it, we can feel infrared because it produces heat. radio microwave infrared visible ultraviolet x-ray gamma ray conditions. However, it should be noted that as microcurrent is used to tighten and tone muscles, any ‘heating’ should be done before this treatment, not after. Some lamps offer variable intensities through the range. Radiant heat is more beneficial for soothing muscular aches, so a lamp used in radiant heat mode (i.e. without the dimmer) would be beneficial for clients with this complaint. Contraindications and safety increasing the temperature of the area being treated. The rate of metabolism is also increased, as is the rate of circulation. This helps to remove waste products and reduce swelling, and sweat and sebum are secreted for a deep cleansing of the skin. Heat ray treatments usually take between 10 and 30 minutes, depending on the size and bulk of the area to be treated. Infrared can be effectively used as a treatment for cellulite in advance of both manual techniques, such as lymphatic drainage, and mechanical ones, including machine-based massage and galvanic. The infrared treatment warms the tissues in preparation for these manual and mechanical treatments. Galvanic is a direct current that flows through the skin. A circuit is formed between the active electrode and the passive electrode, in this case two pads that go across the limbs. The pads should be placed opposite or in line with one another, with the active electrode placed on the area of cellulite. Using iontophoresis, active ingredients from specific products, such as ampoules or gels, can then pass into the skin on this galvanic charge. For a cellulite treatment the active electrode is always negative. This is the most effective polarity as it stimulates circulation and nerve endings, softens tissues and opens up the pores, as well as creating an alkaline effect on the skin. These effects help to move the tissue fluid in order to reduce the appearance of cellulite. The treatment aims to break down stubborn, hard fatty deposits and disperse the fluid retained in the area. Other benefits include an increase in circulation in the area, the dispersion of toxins, increased metabolism and improved skin texture. It may be followed by a faradic treatment to tone specific areas or by a manual or mechanical massage treatment to encourage lymphatic drainage. It may be used on most skin types, except hyper-sensitive skin. Contraindications include epilepsy, diabetes, pregnancy, Issue 89 | July/August 2009 Twin luminous therapy lamp heart conditions, very high blood pressure, pacemakers, skin diseases and infections, direct use over recent scars, bruises, varicose veins, cuts or abrasions. The kidney area, breasts and sciatic nerve as well as any bony areas should never be treated. A treatment could include a pre-warm with the infrared lamp (20 minutes maximum), followed by a galvanic treatment, then a manual or mechanical massage. Other applications of infrared On the face, infrared could be used in conjunction with other treatments, such as high-frequency and microcurrent, in order to prepare the skin by increasing circulation and warming tissues. It may also be used with a hot oil mask to treat dry skin By dilating the blood vessels in the treatment area, heat ray treatments such as infrared will lower the blood pressure and induce a greater rate of blood circulation. Therefore, clients who already have uncontrolled low blood pressure should not be treated as this could cause fainting. Similarly, clients with artery disease should not be treated as the heat could ‘overtax’ the heart. Clients with defective skin sensation could be unknowingly burned as the therapist relies on the client reporting the feel of the rays on the skin. This is particularly true with infrared treatments as they are not as ‘feelable’ as some other heat treatments so it is possible to overdose. Overdosing can cause an over-dilation of the capillaries, resulting in a mottled effect on the skin. Other contraindications include: l Fever, heavy colds and influenza l Skin diseases and disorders l Burns and sunburn l Metal pins and plates l Diabetes l Oedema l Cuts, scars and skin abrasions. A detailed consultation should always be carried out with the client before treatment, checking for any contraindications. The skin should be properly prepared and a skin sensitivity test conducted before treatment. The client’s eyes must be protected and the lamp pre-heated before it is positioned over the treatment area. Clients should not be left unattended. As mentioned earlier, it is vital to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines and to study the lamp’s safety features before treating clients. Safety checks are imperative, including electrical safety of the plug, flex and switches; ensuring that there are adequate guards on the lamps; the tightness of joints so that they don’t droop; and stability of the lamp even when it is fully extended. Angela Barbagelata-Fabes is chairman of The Carlton Group and has developed a variety of electrotherapy machines for the face and body, providing training and demonstrations to colleges and salons in the UK and overseas. In 2007, she created SEBTA, the Student Electrotherapy Beauty Therapist Award, the first award to celebrate excellence in electrotherapy. Tel: 01903 761100 or visit www.thecarltongroup.co.uk International Therapist | 23 PICTURE: photodisc. Illustration: dot moran www.fht.org.uk The electromagnetic spectrum runs as follows: Longest wavelengths to shortest wavelengths Long wavelengths short wavelengths