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Basic Clothing Guide for Dancers
Shift:
In the 18th Century, a woman would have worn a shift
(chemise) under all her clothes whether it was her best gown or
her every day work things. This helped protect the outer
clothing from direct contact with the body since most people
only had one or two different articles to change into.
At night, after removing all outer garments, a shift is
what a woman would also have slept in. Shifts are usually
made of white linen, cotton, or cotton blend. They are not difficult to sew.
There are patterns on line for free :
http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/frauen/18chemise.shtml
for those who can draw patterns. You can also buy patterns or ready made
shifts at Jas Townsend & Sons, Inc. http://jas-townsend.com or many of the
other links on the dance site.
A good pattern to start with is Jas. Townsend's JR
Women's Basic Six-Piece Wardrobe Pattern JR-705 Not only
does it have a pattern for a shift, but also a petticoat, a short
gown, a pocket, a fichu and an apron.
Stays:
The next layer over the shift is the stays (corset).
Although at first they are a little uncomfortable, this
is not the corset of "Gone with the Wind" fame, with lacing so tight you can't
breathe. 18th century stays are cone-shaped with a flat front. The stays don't
meet in the front, but usually have about one or two inches separating the two
front openings. (always get stays that open in the front or make sure you have
someone to lace you in and can get you out of them at the end of the day)
Stays are purchased by bust measurement.
To wear, position the stays up under the arm pits at the sides and the front
edge up to the middle of the breasts. After lacing up the front, adjust your
body and lacing to make the stays snug, but not too tight. Stays that meet in
front are too big, will stretch and be uncomfortable to wear. Although many
people don't buy stays at first, if you want a gown or fancier short jacket, you
will need stays for the proper shape and fit. (Make sure you don't get the kind
with straps, because they are very restrictive.) When just getting started,
many people who wear short gowns or bed gowns (see below) wear Spanks
or something similar under their clothing.
I don't really recommend making stays, but if you are a very advanced
sewer and want a challenge, I would suggest the J.P. Ryan stays pattern.
Otherwise, just purchase at Jas. Townsend or at one of the other on-line
sources.
Petticoat:
Over the stays come the petticoats (skirts) which are one of the easier
things to make. Basically, they are just too pieces of 54" or 60" pieces of
fabric sewn together with a drawstring. They should be hemmed from 2
inches above the floor to just above the ankle. If you want them to lay flat
across the front, you can make small pleats. There are always openings left at
the top of each side to access pockets which are worn under the petticoats.
(see below)
The woman in the picture (above) is wearing her
petticoat under her stays which is also fine, but
tends to create bulk. It was very common to wear
layers of petticoats in the 18th century, especially in
the winter. They are made of linen, wool, cotton or
blends of any of them. If you use cotton, which was
not as popular at the time, choose a heavier weight, The finer, lighter cottons
won't give you the look you want.
Petticoats can be made or bought in assortment of colors and patterns, but
the colors were generally less bright because of the natural dyes they used at
the time. Patterns of stripes, checks and flowered prints were also popular,
but are more difficult to choose if you are not familiar with the time period.
Not all on-line sources or suttlers sell period accurate patterns. (Use the guide
below as a reference or ask someone who knows.)
Short gown/bed gown:
The last basic piece of clothing that you will need is a short gown or a bed
gown. A short gown is a fitted top with scooped
neck and three quarter sleeves. They never
havebuttons, but are fastened down the front with
long straight pins. A short gown can be made in
linen, wool or cotton and are often made in solid
fabrics. Bed gowns have shawl collars, are looser
fitting and longer in length and can have cuffs on
the sleeves.. They are more often made in patterned
fabrics such as printed cottons and linens.
Other accoutrement:
Caps:
A cap is an essential piece of clothing for all dancers. In the 18th Century,
all women wore their hair up for everyday wear. Since no one washed their
hair regularly, a cap helped protected from dust and dirt. There are many,
many styles of caps to choice from. They are usually made of fine white linen
or cotton lawn or batiste. 18th Century-style sutlers (living history
merchants) often carry a large variety of caps or they can be bought on line.
They are also relatively easy to make. Kannik's Korner carries a
pattern(Pattern KK-6602) that has several versions.
Warning: The one style that wasn't worn was the mob cap ( a round piece of
fabric gathered all around) This was more popular among maids of the
Victorian period.
Fichu (scarf/neckchief):
Since the neckline of 18th Century clothing can be low, women often wore
fichus (also know as modesty pieces) to cover up. There are many beautiful
fichus with lace and embroidery sold on-line and at reenactments, but a
simple fichu can easily be made:
Take a 36 inch square of light weight white linen or cotton fabric and cut in
half diagonally. Hem all around. (colored fichus were also popular with work
clothes)
To wear, place the point of the triangle in back. Tuck in the ends down
the front of the short gown or bed gown. Some people just fold a square of
fabric in half. This is okay, too, but tends to be bulky.
Pockets:
Pockets were not sewn into the clothing, but were worn separately on a
cord around the waist. Although women of the 18th Century carried their
things in baskets, it was convenient to have pockets that were worn under the
petticoats. They were accessed through the openings in the side seams of the
petticoats.
Pockets can be bought ready-made, or can be sewn. Many are beautifully
embroidered and decorated even though they were not seen.
Shoes and stockings:
Long socks, or stockings were always worn under clothing and kept up
with garters or ribbons. Nowadays, there are many comfortable knee socks or
tights available. Colors can be any of the colors that were used at the time.
(see below) Stripes were also popular.
Traditionally, shoes were buckled with slightly pointed toe and small heels.
Black or beige are the most commonly used colors. However, since shoes are
more of an investment, dance shoes or other comfortable slip-ons can be
worn instead.
Colors and Patterns:
Since most of the dyes used in the !8th Century were made from natural
substances, fabric colors often tended to be less vibrant. Any of the softer,
more grayed hues are appropriate. There were brighter yellows, reds and
blues, but no metallics or neon colors from synthetic dyes were available in
the 18th Century.
It is difficult to give every pattern and stripe, but popular prints are shown
to give a general idea what is suitable. Stay away from large patterns such as
cabbage roses and bouquets of flowers. Toile patterns are okay if you can
find any with no people in them. When in doubt, get a solid in linen, wool,
heavier cotton or a blend.
A final note:
Although there are many wonderful on-line sources and sutlers at events, there
are those who are also selling to the general public who are looking more for a
costume type garment. Anything with a zipper, buttons or all-in-one outfits are not
authentic. Buyer beware! When in doubt, refer to this guide or ask someone
knowledgeable.