1. style and fashion
2. jewelry
3. bracelets

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MÄNNERSCHMUCK
JEWELRY FOR MEN –
IT'S ALL A MATTER OF TIME
T E X T K AT H A R I N A M Ö S C H L
D
P H O T O S M A N U FA C T U R E R S
FO OT BA L L P ROS D O I T, S O D O M OV I E STA R S, I T I S A F R EQ U E N T S I G H T I N T H E M U S I C
WO R L D – A B OV E A L L I N T H E H I P H O P S C E N E – A N D L AT E LY, I T C A N A L S O B E N OT I C E D
M O R E A N D M O R E O F T E N O N T H E ST R E E TS O R I N O F F I C ES : M E N A R E W E A R I N G J E W E L RY
AGA I N . A N D T H E Y D O S O AS I F I T W E R E T H E M OST N AT U RA L T H I N G I N T H E WO R L D,
S O M E T H I N G W H I C H CO U L D H AV E H A R D LY B E E N I M AG I N E D O N LY T E N Y E A R S AG O
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LOOKING BACK three or four generations, we
see our (great-)grandfather in our mind's eye,
wearing cufflinks on his white Sunday shirt, of course,
with the chain of his pocket watch dangling on his vest.
Imagining his sons, we think of casually elegant gentlemen who did not wear any jewelry at all except for their
wedding ring. The watch on their wrist was classic and
elegant. What a different picture the sons and grandsons
of these very gentlemen present us with today: We see
them sporting ear studs and rings, necklaces and bracelets, piercings on their lips or eyebrows and who knows
where else. Jewelry is and always has been firmly embedded in the context of the relevant time. Hundreds of
years ago, men of power wore their jewelry to demonstrate their wealth and authority. When the middle classes became increasingly well-to-do in the course of industrialization, it was considered good manners for a man
to wear jewelry, but here too, the jewelry represented his
status. In the time after the two World Wars, men
wearing jewelry were frowned upon. Other things were
more important, after all.
It was not before the sixties and seventies, with the
advent of the hippie era, that men started showing some
interest in jewelry again. But after this period, the trend
died down again. For a while, it was also a matter of the
relevant milieu whether men wore jewelry or not. It was
common, for example, in the rocker or the homosexual
scenes. A few years ago, however, the onset of the age of
metrosexuality allowed men to live out their female side
as well. Since then, men have learned to groom themselves and to set themselves apart from the crowd, also by
wearing jewelry.
Youths and young men emulate their stars and idols – all
the David Beckhams, Brad Pitts and Michael Schumachers of this world who show themselves adorned with
earrings, necklaces and bracelets. Others, however, wear
their jewelry to emphasize their individuality, and yet
others to underline certain male characteristics such as audacity and masculine
strength by means of symbol-laden
pendants featuring sabers, snakes or
NECKLACE WITH SYMBOLIC
skulls, for example. Strong masculi-
PENDANTS BY CAI JEWELS. PRICE
ne hands present themselves deco-
ON REQUEST
rated with rings, above all signet
rings featuring mystical signs or the
family crest. This shows us that it's not
only young and pop-oriented men who are
interested in jewelry. Distinguished businessmen are also attaching more importance to
elegance again and thus to these small insignia of personality which also include cufflinks
(see our topic). They are an indispensable
element of a cultivated gentleman's appearance – just like in our grandfathers' day.
JOSÉ CARLOS GUERREIRO, CREATOR OF THE BRA ZILIAN
FASHION JEWELRY BRAND NAMED AFTER HIM
1. BRACELET BY MEISTER, PERSONALIZED BY THE
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WEARER'S OWN FINGERPRINT. DA MASCUS STEEL
AND 750 YELLOW GOLD ON A LEATHER STRING, €
560
2. RING FROM PIAGET'S "POSSESSION" LINE.
750 WHITE GOLD, € 1,980 3. BRACELET FROM THE
D&G SCALE COLLECTION WITH BROWN OR BLACK
LEATHER AND D&G LOGO, € 115 4. BRACELET AND
RING BY REBECCA. SILVER AND DIAMONDS, € 268
AND € 168 5. "SHELBY COBRA" LEATHER BELT WITH
SILVER BUCKLE FROM THE CURRENT COLLECTION OF
THE ITALIAN JEWELRY BRAND ALLESSANDRO TESTI, €
363 6. BRACELETS BY GELLNER FEATURING A TAHITIAN OR A CULTURED SOUTH SEA PEARL OR A 750
GOLD ELEMENT SET WITH DIAMONDS ON A SILK
CORD, STARTING FROM € 450
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MÄNNERSCHMUCK
THE COMEBACK OF CUFFLINKS
C AS UA L E L EGA N C E FO R M E N W I T H A S E N S E O F ST Y L E
Strictly speaking, cufflinks don't fall in the jewelry category but
HOW TO WE AR CUFFLINK S
instead are articles of daily use. After all, their purpose is to
Those who opt for wearing cufflinks should observe a few rules:
keep the cuffs of a shirt or a blouse together. And indeed, up
1. The more upscale your outfit and the more formal the occa-
to the 1960s, they were almost a must in an elegant gentle-
sion, the more valuable your cufflinks can be. When you
man's outfit and only afterwards were stigmatized as old-
wear a smoking, only put on precious metal cufflinks.
fashioned. True connoisseurs of good style, however, have
2. Make sure to match the metal colors. A watch made of a
always made a point of adorning their cuffs with these little
white metal should be complemented by cufflinks of the
buttons when attending a social or business
same metal color. If your wedding ring and/or watch are
function. Those who have ever witnessed
the casual elegance with which an English
gentleman reaches for his whisky glass,
revealing only a twinkling glimpse of his
cufflink, will be impressed forever – and
might ask themselves: Would this look as
good on me or will it look artificial? To ans-
made of yellow gold, choose your cufflinks accordingly.
3. Of course, cufflinks should only be worn on shirts or blouses
with French cuffs (double cuffs).
4. Cufflinks don't go well with a casual outfit but are always the
perfect complement when a suit and tie are called for.
5. Cufflinks are also a nice accessory for women, to be worn on
blouses and blouse dresses with French cuffs.
wer this question, let's quote Giorgio Armani who once said the following about busi-
WHICH CUFFLINK IS THE RIGHT ONE?
ness fashion: "Don't dress for the position
Wearing cufflinks is a wonderful opportunity to demonstrate
you have but for the one you want to have."
good style. This is why – especially in the business world – it is
important to choose them with care so as to avoid faux pas. For
formal occasions, it is best to opt for classic models, either
round or rectangular ones, knot studs or bar-shaped cufflinks,
made of gold, platinum or silver and, if desired, also comple-
CASUAL ELEGANCE: HUGH JACKMAN AT THE PREMIERE OF THE
MOVIE "AUSTRALIA" WEARING FERRAGAMO
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1. CUFFLINKS BY VICTOR MAYER. 750 WHITE GOLD,
SAPPHIRES AND BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS, € 9,940
2. CUFFLINKS FROM THE "ANNIE" JEWELRY COLLECTION
BY ROSENTHAL. GOLD-PLATED 925 SILVER AND PORCELAIN, € 149 3. "ALPHA-OMEGA" CUFFLINKS BY PEGIERS.
750 RED GOLD AND COLORIT, PRICE ON REQUEST 4.
"D.SIDE" CUFFLINKS BY DAMIANI. YELLOW GOLD AND
BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS, € 2,450 5. CUFFLINKS BY
COLLEEN B. ROSENBLAT. 750 ROSE GOLD AND TAHITIAN PEARLS, € 3,790 6. "SIGNATURE WOOD" CUFFLINKS
BY TIFFANY. 925 SILVER AND WOOD, € 460 7. CUFFLINKS BY SCHMUCKZEICHEN, 925 SILVER AND CHAMPAGNE CORKS, PRICE ON REQUEST
LINKS BY PORSCHE DESIGN, € 270
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8. "TECFLEX" CUFF-
mented by diamonds or colored gemstones. There is a mul-
A HISTORIC AL REVIEW
titude of different models out there, ranging from ultra-
Cufflinks have been part of men's fashion since the time of
modern to historically inspired specimens, to express one's
the Sun King, Louis XIV. Back then, the loose ends of shirt
personal taste – as long as they are not over the top. Also,
sleeves were bound with simple straps to form solid cuffs.
there is a wide choice of decorative materials such as gem-
These straps were soon replaced by buttons which were to
stones, pearls, enamel, mother-of-pearl and many more,
go down in history as "boutons de manchette" or "cuff but-
adding another dash of individuality and probably inviting
tons". In the early 19th century, as a result of industrializa-
you to build up an entire collection in the course of time.
tion and the resulting prosperity, cufflinks became popular
As far as everyday business life is concerned, there is no
in the middle classes as well. The Art Nouveau period was
need for big investments to join the (cufflink) club. Silver
livened up by genuine works of art. In England, the Liberty
and stainless steel models serve as a basis, supplemented
& Co. company excited its customers with Celtic motifs in sil-
by models made of rubber, brass, aluminum, glass, acrylic
ver and enamel, and Paris marveled at Lalique's erotic
plastic, wood – the material options that lend contempora-
models featuring Greek goddesses artfully sculpted from cry-
ry cufflinks that certain something are almost unlimited.
stal. The Art Deco period introduced a rather sleek yet emi-
Most of the one-sided models can be fastened easily by
nently wearable elegance with simple geometric patterns.
"A-Z" CUFFLINKS BY
means of a swivel bar or a bow-shaped post. The two parts
The Great Depression largely eliminated cufflinks which
MEISTER. TITANIUM
of double-sided cufflinks are usually connected by a chain
from then on were only worn by the upper social classes.
or shank and should be attached to the cuffs before you put
This did not change until after World War II, when the eco-
the shirt on. Jokesters can choose from a wide range of
nomies recovered and people revived their desire to adorn
fashionable variants, featuring almost anything from funny
themselves. The cufflink fashion had its last heyday in the
to virtually embarrassing such as euro or dollar signs, eye-
late 1960s, before the hippie movement brought a radical
balls, no-smoking symbols or puckered lips. But we recom-
change. After all, wearing cufflinks was not exactly the thing
mend you not to try such an experiment in the business
to do for people who turned away from conventions and
world or at an elegant dinner. This should be reserved for a
propagated flower power. It took more than 30 years until
more causal environment such as a cocktail party. In gene-
people started developing an interest in style and indivi-
ral, however, the younger the wearer, the bolder his cuff-
duality and thus in cufflinks again. It remains to be seen
links may be.
whether this will develop into another boom.
AND 750 RED GOLD
WITH THE WEARER'S
INITIALS, € 570
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CUFFLINKS FROM THE "IQ – INDIVIDUAL BY QUINN" LINE.
612 VARIANTS FOR PERSONALIZATION, E.G. WHITE GOLD
WITH FAMILY CREST MOTIF ENGRAVED IN A BLACK AND
WHITE BANDED STONE (LEFT), OR SILVER WITH MONOGRAM ENGRAVED IN A BLACK AND BLUE BANDED STONE
(RIGHT). PRICES STARTING FROM € 149
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MÄNNERSCHMUCK
TRENDY JEWELRY ST YLING
In the past few years, bracelets, rings and necklaces have
increasingly conquered the men's world, complementing
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the classics among men's jewelry such as cufflinks, tie pins
and watches. As a rule, men should always choose their
jewelry according to their taste but also with caution
because, just like anything else, too much is often inappropriate and looks forced. When in doubt, always consi-
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der that less might be more. What's particularly trendy this
year, as Jürgen Heinz from the TeNo company told us, is
jewelry
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featuring
the
material
combinations
of
ceramics/stainless steel and steel/gold, as well as pendants
with symbolic meanings. Personalization is also "in": cufflinks with personal emblems, for example, or bracelets
and necklaces to be composed by the wearer – the jewelry world offers a multitude of options. According to Jürgen
Heinz, however, what's still a must on masculine wrists are
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bracelets with leather. f
1. "CKJ BILLET" NECKLACE BY CALVIN KLEIN JEANS JEWELRY.
SMALL STAINLESS STEEL BEADS AND A DISTINCTIVE PENDANT,
€ 70 2. KETTE „ACCADEMIA“ VON DAMIANI, WEISSGOLD MIT BRILLANT, 1.980 €
2. "ACCADEMIA" NECKLACE BY DAMIANI. WHITE GOLD AND THREE BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS, € 1,980 3. PENDANT BY TIFFANY. TITANIUM AND 925 SILVER ON A RUBBER
STRING, € 340 4. "HIZ" NECKLACE BY LAPPONIA. DESIGN: CHRISTOPHE BURGER. 925
SILVER AND STAINLESS STEEL ON A BLACK SILICONE STRING, PRICE ON REQUEST 5. MEN'S
RING BY XEN. STAINLESS STEEL AND BLACK CERAMIC, COMPLEMENTED BY A BRILLIANTCUT DIAMOND, € 129 6. "KNOT" RING BY OLIVER SCHMIDT / JUNI. 750 ROSE GOLD, €
1,950 7. LINK BRACELET FROM THE CURRENT COLLECTION OF THE ITALIAN JEWELRY
BRAND ALESSANDRO TESTI. RUTHENIUM-PLATED SILVER, € 237
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8. "YUNIS" BANGLE BY TENO. FINELY SATIN-BRUSHED
STAINLESS STEEL WITH 750 GOLD OR CERAMIC INLAYS,
€ 230 AND € 162
9. PLATIN GILDE INTERNATIONAL
PRESENTS THE SCHWAB GOLD- UND PLATINSCHMIEDE:
RINGS MADE OF ENGLISH SADDLE LEATHER COMPLEMENTED BY PLATINUM 950 ELEMENTS, EITHER HANDENGRAVED OR SET WITH A BLACK BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMOND (0.95 CT). PRICES ON REQUEST 10. BRACELET
FROM THOMAS SABO'S "REBEL AT HEART" LINE. 925
SILVER, € 469 11. SUNDIAL BY MEISTER. COIN-SIZED,
EITHER AS A PENDANT OR AS A POCKET TOOL WITH AN
INTEGRATED COMPASS. TITANIUM WITH A FOLD-OUT
SHADOW CASTER IN 750 YELLOW GOLD, € 890
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